Mack Truck Mechanical Marine Engine M-E7 Operating Maintenance & Service Manual(5-108)

MECHANICAL MARINE ENGINE

M-E7 OPERATING, MAINTENANCE AND SERVICE MANUAL

JANUARY 2002 (NEW ISSUE)

5-108

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MECHANICAL MARINE ENGINE

M-E7 OPERATING, MAINTENANCE AND SERVICE MANUAL

JANUARY 2002 (NEW ISSUE)

© MACK TRUCKS, INC. 2002 5-108

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ATTENTION The information in this manual is not all inclusive and cannot take into account all unique situations. Note that some illustrations are typical and may not reflect the exact arrangement of every component installed on a specific engine.

The information, specifications, and illustrations in this publication are based on information that was current at the time of publication.

No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or be transmitted in any form by any means including (but not limited to) electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without prior written permission of MackPower™, Inc.

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

TABLE OF CONTENTS

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TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 SAFETY INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Advisory Labels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 Service Procedures and Tool Usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 CONVERSION CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 EXPLANATION OF NUMERICAL CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 ABOUT THE MARINE ENGINE AND ITS SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 OPERATION OF MACKPOWER™ MARINE ENGINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Engine Operating Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 VISUAL IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 ENGINE MODEL IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Engine Information Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 COMPONENT LOCATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 ENGINE DESIGN FEATURES AND COMPONENT LOCATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 ENGINE SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Engine Will Not Crank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Engine Cranks — Will Not Start . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Engine Misfires . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Engine Stalls at Low Speeds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Erratic Engine Speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Low Power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29 Engine Will Not Achieve No-Load Governed RPM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Excessive Engine Vibration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Excessive Black or Gray Smoke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Excessive Blue or White Smoke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Excessive Fuel Consumption . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31 Excessive Oil Consumption . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Engine Overheats . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 High Exhaust Temperature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Low Engine Oil Pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Engine Oil in Coolant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Coolant in Engine Oil . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Low Compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Excessive Crankcase Pressure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 CAMSHAFT TIMING CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 CAMSHAFT LOBE LIFT CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 CYLINDER HEAD AND CYLINDER BLOCK LEAK TEST PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Cylinder Head and Head Gasket Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Cylinder Head Fuel Passages Leak Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Cylinder Head Oil Passage Leak Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Cylinder Head Coolant Passage Leak Check (Off Engine) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Cylinder Block Coolant Passage Leak Check (Cylinder Heads Removed) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Raw Water Pump Impeller Troubleshooting Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 MARINE ENGINE SERVICE INTERVALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 GENERAL MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Turbocharger and Exhaust Connections . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Belt Drive System Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Blow-By Recirculation Unit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 iv

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TABLE OF CONTENTS Engine Oil Maintenance Requirements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Fuel System Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Cooling System Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 AFTERCOOLER MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Cleaning Aftercooler Internal Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 RAW WATER PUMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Raw Water Pump Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 GEAR OIL COOLER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 HEAT EXCHANGER MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 ZINC REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 BATTERY/CHARGING SYSTEM MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 BATTERY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 BATTERY CHARGING ALTERNATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73 REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 ENGINE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Vessel Preparation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Removal Procedure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 ENGINE DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 General . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Injection Pump Shutdown Solenoid Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Starter Motor Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Starter Magnetic Relay Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 Filter Element Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Heat Exchanger to Oil Cooler Coolant Tube Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Mounting Engine in Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81 Alternator Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Blow-By Recirculation Vacuum Regulator and Breather Hose Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 Engine Cooling System Vent Line Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Raw Water Pump Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 Fuel Filter Adapter and Coolant Conditioner Adapter Assembly Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 LDA Acceleration Smoke Control Line Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Exhaust Mixer/Exit Pipe (If Equipped) Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 Turbocharger Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 Injection Pump Throttle Return to Idle Mechanism . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Engine Oil Fill Tube Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Exhaust Manifold Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99 Heat Exchanger Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Gear Oil Cooler Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Aftercooler Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 Thermostat Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103 Coolant Manifold Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 Air Inlet Manifold Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Housing Assembly Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 Water Pump Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Fuel Injection Pump Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Valve Cover Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 v

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TABLE OF CONTENTS Injector Nozzle Holder Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Rocker Arm, Valve Yoke and Push Rod Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 Cylinder Head Assembly Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 Vibration Damper and Crankshaft Hub Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Oil Pan Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 Oil Pump Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 Timing Gear Cover Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Auxiliary Driveshaft Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115 Camshaft Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 Flywheel Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Flywheel Housing Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 Main Bearing Cap Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 Crankshaft Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 CYLINDER BLOCK RECONDITIONING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Piston Cooling Spray Nozzle Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 Cylinder Sleeve Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 Cylinder Sleeve Counterbore Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 Cylinder Block Core Plug and Camshaft and Auxiliary Shaft Bushing Replacement . . . . . . . 126 Cylinder Sleeve Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 Piston Cooling Spray Nozzle Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 Cylinder Block Dowel Pins . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 AUXILIARY DRIVESHAFT AND CAMSHAFT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Auxiliary Driveshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 Camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141 CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 Crankshaft Wear Ring Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 Crankshaft Dowel Pin Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 Crankshaft Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 CONNECTING ROD AND PISTON INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Connecting Rods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 149 Pistons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 Piston Rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 Assembling Connecting Rod to Piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 CYLINDER HEAD OVERHAUL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Cylinder Heads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 Inlet and Exhaust Valves . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176 Valve Rocker Arm Shaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 LUBRICATION SYSTEM COMPONENTS INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Oil Cooler Assembly Inspection and Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 Oil Pump Inspection and Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Water Pump Inspection (Fresh Water) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Gear Oil Cooler Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Heat Exchanger Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 189 Raw Water Pump Inspection and Overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Injection Pump Drive Hub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Injector Nozzle Inspection and Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199

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TABLE OF CONTENTS ENGINE REASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 General Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Crankshaft Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 Main Bearing Cap Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Piston and Connecting Rod Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Flywheel Housing Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 Flywheel Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 Camshaft Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 Auxiliary Driveshaft Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 Oil Pump Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Timing Gear Cover Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Crankshaft Front Seal Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 Crankshaft Hub Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Vibration Damper Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Oil Pan Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Cylinder Head Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 Push Rod Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Valve Yoke Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Rocker Arm Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231 Nozzle Holder Assembly Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Valve Cover Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Fuel Injection Pump Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 Water Pump Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 Air Inlet Manifold Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 Coolant Manifold Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 Thermostat, Housing and Seal Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242 Gear Oil Cooler Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Heat Exchanger Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 Aftercooler Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Exhaust Manifold Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247 Engine Oil Fill Tube Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Injection Pump Throttle Return to Idle Mechanism Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 Fuel Filter Adapter and Coolant Conditioner Adapter Assembly Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Turbocharger Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254 Exhaust Mixer/Exit Pipe (If Equipped) Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259 LDA Acceleration Smoke Control Line Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259 Engine Cooling System Vent Line Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Raw Water Pump Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 Blow-By Recirculation Vacuum Regulator and Breather Hose Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 Injection Pump Shutdown Solenoid Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 Starter Magnetic Relay Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Alternator Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 Removing Engine from Engine Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 Filter Element Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 Starter Motor Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 Heat Exchanger to Oil Cooler Coolant Tube Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268

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TABLE OF CONTENTS ENGINE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 General Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Installation Procedure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 ENGINE SETUP AND ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Valve Yoke and Valve Lash Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 Injection Pump Fixed-Timing Procedures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273 Locating Piston Top Dead Center (TDC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 279 FINAL PREPARATION AND OPERATIONAL CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 Systems Check and Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 Engine Operational Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 283 REBUILT ENGINE RUN-IN PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 Description . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 Run-In Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 285 ENGINE GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Engine Features . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288 FITS AND LIMITS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 M-E7 Component Torque Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 Torque Specifications for Hose Clamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 Oetiker Stepless Spring Clamps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 Torque Specifications for Pipe Plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 Specification Footnotes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 299 Torque Specifications for Non-Critical Fasteners . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 ENGINE LUBRICANT AND SEALANT REQUIREMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 SCHEMATIC & ROUTING DIAGRAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305 ENGINE FLOW DIAGRAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Lubrication System Flow Diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Cooling System Flow Diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307 Fuel System Flow Diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 SPECIAL TOOLS & EQUIPMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Special Tools for Engine Overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313

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INTRODUCTION

INTRODUCTION

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INTRODUCTION SAFETY INFORMATION Advisory Labels Cautionary signal words (Danger-Warning-Caution) may appear in various locations throughout this manual. Information accented by one of these signal words must be observed to minimize the risk of personal injury to service personnel, or the possibility of improper service methods which may damage the engine or cause it to be unsafe. Additional Notes and Service Hints are used to emphasize areas of procedural importance and provide suggestions for ease of repair. The following definitions indicate the use of these advisory labels as they appear throughout the manual:

Activities associated with Danger indicate that death or serious personal injury may result from failing to heed the advisory. Serious personal injury may be equated to career-ending injury.

Activities associated with Warning indicate that personal injury may result from failing to heed the advisory. In this case, personal injury is not equated to career-ending injury, but results in possible change in quality of life.

Activities associated with Caution indicate that product damage may result from failing to heed the advisory. Caution is not used for personal injury.

A procedure, practice, or condition that is essential to emphasize.

A helpful suggestion that will make it quicker and/or easier to perform a procedure, while possibly reducing service cost.

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INTRODUCTION Service Procedures and Tool Usage Anyone using a service procedure or tool not recommended in this manual must first satisfy himself thoroughly that neither his safety nor vehicle safety will be jeopardized by the service method he selects.

Individuals deviating in any manner from the instructions provided assume all risks of consequential personal injury or damage to equipment involved.

Also note that particular service procedures may require the use of a special tool(s) designed for a specific purpose. These special tools must be used in the manner described, whenever specified in the instructions.

1. Before starting a marine engine, always be located at a helm station, and place the transmission in neutral.

2. Before working on a marine engine, place the transmission in neutral.

3. Before towing the vessel, refer to and follow the instructions in your transmission operation manual to avoid damage to the transmission during towing.

Engine-driven components such as Power Take-Off (PTO) units, water pumps, drive belts, driveshafts and other related rotating assemblies, can be very dangerous. Do not work on or service engine-driven components unless the engine is shutdown. Always keep body parts and loose clothing out of range of these powerful components to prevent serious personal injury. Be aware of PTO engagement or nonengagement status. Always disengage the PTO when not in use.

REMEMBER, SAFETY . . . IS NO ACCIDENT!

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INTRODUCTION MackPower™, Inc. cannot anticipate every possible occurrence that may involve a potential hazard. Accidents can be avoided by recognizing potentially hazardous situations and taking necessary precautions. Performing service procedures correctly is critical to technician safety and safe, reliable marine engine operation.

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Use hoists or jacks to lift or move heavy objects.

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NEVER run engine unless exhaust fumes are adequately vented to the outside.

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Be aware of hot surfaces. Allow engine to cool sufficiently before performing any service or tests in the vicinity of the engine.

The following list of general safety practices can help technicians avoid potentially hazardous situations and reduce the risk of personal injury.

DO NOT perform any services, maintenance procedures or lubrications until this manual has been read and understood.

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Keep work area clean and orderly. Clean up any spilled oil, grease, fuel, hydraulic fluid, etc.

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Only use tools that are in good condition, and always use accurately calibrated torque wrenches to tighten all fasteners to specified torques. In instances where procedures require the use of special tools which are designed for a specific purpose, use only in the manner described in the instructions.

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DO NOT wear loose-fitting or torn clothing.

Remove any jewelry before servicing.

r

ALWAYS wear safety glasses and proper shoes. Avoid injury by being aware of sharp corners and jagged edges.

r

When the boat is in the water, always close the sea water seacock prior to working on the raw water system to avoid sinking the boat. Reopen sea water seacock when work is complete.

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5_108.bk Page 5 Thursday, October 4, 2001 11:45 AM

INTRODUCTION CONVERSION CHART Conversion Units

Multiply By:

Length Calculations Inches (in)

to

Millimeters (mm)

25.40

Inches (in)

to

Centimeters (cm)

2.540

Feet (ft)

to

Centimeters (cm)

30.48

Feet (ft)

to

Meters (m)

0.3048

Yards (yd)

to

Centimeters (cm)

91.44

Yards (yd)

to

Meters (m)

0.9144

Miles

to

Kilometers (km)

1.609

Millimeters (mm)

to

Inches (in)

0.03937

Centimeters (cm)

to

Inches (in)

0.3937

Centimeters (cm)

to

Feet (ft)

0.0328

Centimeters (cm)

to

Yards (yd)

0.0109

Meters (m)

to

Feet (ft)

3.281

Meters (m)

to

Yards (yd)

1.094

Kilometers (km)

to

Miles

0.6214

Area Calculations Square Inches (sq-in)

to

Square Millimeters (sq-mm)

645.2

Square Inches (sq-in)

to

Square Centimeters (sq-cm)

6.452

Square Feet (sq-ft)

to

Square Centimeters (sq-cm)

929.0

Square Feet (sq-ft)

to

Square Meters (sq-m)

0.0929

Square Yards (sq-yd)

to

Square Meters (sq-m)

0.8361

Square Miles (sq-miles)

to

Square Kilometers (sq-km)

2.590

Square Millimeters (sq-mm)

to

Square Inches (sq-in)

0.00155

Square Centimeters (sq-cm)

to

Square Inches (sq-in)

0.155

Square Centimeters (sq-cm)

to

Square Feet (sq-ft)

0.001076

Square Meters (sq-m)

to

Square Feet (sq-ft)

10.76

Square Meters (sq-m)

to

Square Yards (sq-yd)

1.196

Square Kilometers (sq-km)

to

Square Miles (sq-miles)

0.3861

Cubic Inches (cu-in)

to

Cubic Centimeters (cu-cm)

16.387

Cubic Inches (cu-in)

to

Liters (L)

0.01639

Quarts (qt)

to

Liters (L)

0.9464

Gallons (gal)

to

Liters (L)

3.7854

Volume Calculations

Cubic Yards (cu-yd)

to

Cubic Meters (cu-m)

0.7646

Cubic Centimeters (cu-cm)

to

Cubic Inches (cu-in)

0.06102

Liters (L)

to

Cubic Inches (cu-in)

61.024

Liters (L)

to

Quarts (qt)

1.0567

Liters (L)

to

Gallons (gal)

0.2642

Cubic Meters (cu-m)

to

Cubic Yards (cu-yd)

1.308

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5_108.bk Page 6 Thursday, October 4, 2001 11:45 AM

INTRODUCTION Conversion Units

Multiply By:

Weight Calculations Ounces (oz)

to

Grams (g)

28.5714

Pounds (lb)

to

Kilograms (kg)

0.4536

Pounds (lb)

to

Short Tons (US tons)

0.0005

Pounds (lb)

to

Metric Tons (t)

0.00045

Short Tons (US tons)

to

Pounds (lb)

2000

Short Tons (US tons)

to

Kilograms (kg)

907.18486

Short Tons (US tons)

to

Metric Tons (t)

0.90718

Grams (g)

to

Ounces (oz)

0.035

Kilograms (kg)

to

Pounds (lb)

2.205

Kilograms (kg)

to

Short Tons (US tons)

0.001102

Kilograms (kg)

to

Metric Tons (t)

0.001

Metric Tons (t)

to

Pounds (lb)

2205

Metric Tons (t)

to

Short Tons (US tons)

1.1023

Metric Tons (t)

to

Kilograms (kg)

1000

Ounces Force (ozf)

to

Newtons (N)

0.2780

Pounds Force (lbf)

to

Newtons (N)

4.448

Pounds Force (lbf)

to

Kilograms Force (kgf)

0.456

Force Calculations

Kilograms Force (kgf)

to

Pounds Force (lbf)

2.2046

Kilograms Force (kgf)

to

Newtons (N)

9.807

Newtons (N)

to

Kilograms Force (kgf)

0.10196

Newtons (N)

to

Ounces Force (ozf)

3.597

Newtons (N)

to

Pounds Force (lbf)

0.2248

Pound Inches (lb-in)

to

Newton Meters (N•m)

0.11298

Pound Feet (lb-ft)

to

Newton Meters (N•m)

1.3558

Pound Feet (lb-ft)

to

Kilograms Force per Meter (kgf•m)

0.13825

Newton Meters (N•m)

to

Pound Inches (lb-in)

8.851

Newton Meters (N•m)

to

Pound Feet (lb-ft)

0.7376

Newton Meters (N•m)

to

Kilograms Force per Meter (kgf•m)

0.10197

Kilograms Force per Meter (kgf•m)

to

Pound Feet (lb-ft)

7.233

Kilograms Force per Meter (kgf•m)

to

Newton Meters (N•m)

9.807

Torque Calculations

Radiator Specific Heat Dissipation Calculations British Thermal Unit per Hour (BTU/hr)

to

Kilowatt per Degree Celsius (kW/°C)

0.000293

Kilowatt per Degree Celsius (kW/°C)

to

British Thermal Unit per Hour (BTU/hr)

3414.43

Degrees Fahrenheit (°F)

to

Degrees Celsius (°C)

(°F − 32) 0.556

Degrees Celsius (°C)

to

Degrees Fahrenheit (°F)

(1.8 x °C) + 32

Temperature Calculations

Page 6

5_108.bk Page 7 Thursday, October 4, 2001 11:45 AM

INTRODUCTION Conversion Units

Multiply By:

Pressure Calculations Atmospheres (atm)

to

Bars (bar)

1.01325

Atmospheres (atm)

to

Kilopascals (kPa)

101.325

Bars (bar)

to

Atmospheres (atm)

0.98692

Bars (bar)

to

Kilopascals (kPa)

100

Bar (bar)

to

Pounds per Square Inch (psi)

14.5037

Inches of Mercury (in Hg)

to

Kilopascals (kPa)

3.377

Inches of Water (in H2O)

to

Kilopascals (kPa)

0.2491

Pounds per Square Inch (psi)

to

Kilopascals (kPa)

6.895

Pounds per Square Inch (psi)

to

Bar (bar)

0.06895

Kilopascals (kPa)

to

Atmospheres (atm)

0.00987

Kilopascals (kPa)

to

Inches of Mercury (in Hg)

0.29612

Kilopascals (kPa)

to

Inches of Water (in H2O)

4.01445

Kilopascals (kPa)

to

Pounds per Square Inch (psi)

0.145

Horsepower (hp)

to

Kilowatts (kW)

0.74627

Kilowatts (kW)

to

Horsepower (hp)

1.34

Miles per Gallon (mile/gal)

to

Kilometers per Liter (km/L)

0.4251

Kilometers per Liter (km/L)

to

Miles per Gallon (mile/gal)

2.352

Miles per Hour (mile/hr)

to

Kilometers per Hour (km/hr)

1.609

Kilometers per Hour (km/hr)

to

Miles per Hour (mile/hr)

0.6214

Cubic Feet per Minute (cu-ft/min)

to

Liters per Minute (L/min)

28.32

Liters per Minute (L/min)

to

Cubic Feet per Minute (cu-ft/min)

0.03531

Power Calculations

Fuel Performance Calculations

Velocity Calculations

Volume Flow Calculations

Page 7

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INTRODUCTION EXPLANATION OF NUMERICAL CODE

GROUP 400 — STEERING, AXLES, WHEELS AND TIRES, DRIVELINE

The organization of MACK service manuals has been upgraded to standardize manual content according to a reference system based on component identification. The new reference system will help link the information contained in this publication with related information included in other MACK service/warranty publications, such as associated service bulletins, warranty manuals, and MACK Service Labor Time Standards.

GROUP 500 — BRAKES, AUXILIARY SYSTEMS

The system is based on a numerical code, the first digit of which identifies the general component grouping as listed here: GROUP 000 — GENERAL DATA GROUP 100 — CHASSIS GROUP 200 — ENGINE GROUP 300 — CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION, TRANSFER CASE AND PTO

GROUP 600 — CAB, TRUCK BODY GROUP 700 — ELECTRICAL The second two digits of the three-digit code are used to identify the system, assembly or subassembly, as appropriate, within each of the groupings. The codes applicable to this publication are shown at the beginning of each procedure, as necessary, to guide you to specific component information.

Additionally, a two-character alpha code (i.e., [NV] RINGS, PISTON) may be referenced with each procedure. This alpha code, in combination with the three-digit Group number, identifies the specific assembly, sub-assembly or part, and directly relates to the first five positions of the operation code listed in MACK Service Labor Time Standards.

Example of Numerical Code

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INTRODUCTION ABOUT THE MARINE ENGINE AND ITS SERVICE This is a complete manual, describing engine features and the operation of major systems as well as providing comprehensive overhaul procedures, specifications and adjustments.

This manual and illustrations relate specifically to the heat exchanger cooled version of the marine engine. A supplement to this manual, for keelcooled applications will be forthcoming.

All specifications and torque values are given in English and metric measurements. Most fasteners used in the construction and retention of the marine hardware are English, while the base E7 engine is metric. This should be considered in tool selection during disassembly and reassembly. The Special Tools list has been revised to include all special tools required for a complete overhaul. Warnings, cautions, notes and service hints help the technician service the engine safely and efficiently.

The engine disassembly procedures show how to remove components in an order that requires the least amount of handling. Where appropriate, it includes general information needed to properly service that component.

Various component bench procedures guide the technician in disassembly, cleaning, inspection and assembly of each component. Each bench procedure helps in determining if the part is serviceable or should be replaced.

The engine reassembly procedure includes stepby-step instructions for reassembling the engine.

This helps to ensure proper installation and longer service life.

Under Engine Setup and Adjustments, the latest setup information is provided for adjusting all ME7 engine models. Engines perform best and conserve fuel most efficiently when adjusted properly.

Two additional procedures are included as guides for removing and reinstalling the engine. Both sections are generic in nature since the MackPower™ M-E7 engine installation procedures vary from one vessel style to another.

As such, the procedures are intended as a checklist to remind the technician of all necessary tasks.

While troubleshooting procedures are similar for most diesel engines, this manual includes only those that pertain to the MackPower™ M-E7 engine. The Troubleshooting section contains symptom-related questions as well as tests to help the technician consider all possible problem sources.

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INTRODUCTION OPERATION OF MACKPOWER™ MARINE ENGINES Engine Operating Instructions PREPARATIONS FOR STARTING THE ENGINE THE FIRST TIME When preparing to start a new engine or an engine which has been in storage, perform all of the operations listed below. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious engine damage.

Before going below deck, always remove loose items of clothing or jewelry that could get caught in a moving part of the engine and cause personal injury. Safety glasses and hearing protection must also be worn.

The following check (No. 6) is not required for a brand new engine.

6. Remove the cover from the raw water pump.

Visually inspect the impeller for signs of damage or broken vanes. Replace the impeller if damaged. Reinstall the cover with a new gasket.

Failure to install a new gasket and tighten cover bolts securely can result in pump leakage at startup.

7. Prime the raw water pump by closing the raw water seacock and removing the hose or plug in the pump outlet. Pour at least a pint of water into the pump. Reinstall the plug or hose and reopen seacock.

Cooling System Checks 1. Make sure all the drain cocks in the cooling system are installed (drain cocks are often removed for shipping) and are tightly closed.

2. Open the petcock near the top of the turbocharger (if used).

3. Remove the heat exchanger pressure control cap and fill with ethylene glycol-base antifreeze solution in the required concentration. Keep the coolant level at the bottom of the filler neck to allow for expansion of the coolant. For more detailed coolant recommendations, refer to Coolant Recommendations.

4. After filling the cooling system, close all petcocks. Fill the coolant recovery bottle to the “Full Cold” mark. Entrapped air must be purged after filling the cooling system.

5. Check sea water strainers and remove any accumulations of seaweed or debris.

Strainers act as filters between the intake thru-hull fittings and raw water pump and are easily fouled. Make sure all thru-hull valves, other valves in the cooling system and raw water sea lines are open.

Page 10

The impeller depends on liquid pumped for lubrication. DO NOT RUN DRY for more than 30 seconds. Lack of liquid will burn the impeller.

Lubrication System Checks (New Engine) If the engine is brand new, the oil filters should already be pre-filled. If not, fill the full flow oil filters with proper oil and reinstall. With the boat in calm water and properly loaded, fill the crankcase with 28 quarts of recommended engine oil. Check the oil level on the dipstick. The oil level should be below the full mark. Measure how far below the full mark the oil level is. Using a tubing cutter, cut that amount from the top of the dipstick guide.

Recheck oil level to ensure it is now at the full mark.

If the oil level is above the full mark, the dipstick markings will need to be ground off and the dipstick remarked.

It is important that this procedure be done with exactly 28 quarts of oil in the pan. Check that the pan is empty before starting the procedure.

5_108.bk Page 11 Thursday, October 4, 2001 11:45 AM

INTRODUCTION The lubricating oil film on the rotating parts and bearings of a new engine, or one which has been in storage for six months or more, may be insufficient when engine is started for the first time. Insufficient lubrication at start-up can cause serious damage to engine components.

1

To ensure an immediate flow of oil to all bearing surfaces at initial engine start-up, the engine can be charged with a commercially available pressure prelubricator*. The oil should be the same weight and recommended viscosity as used in the crankcase. After prelubricating, add additional oil to bring the level to the proper mark on the dipstick. * If a pre-luber is not used, refer to FINAL PREPARATION AND OPERATIONAL CHECK in the Repair Instructions section.

Make sure the marine gear is filled to the proper level with the fluid recommended by the gear manufacturer.

Engine Oil Level Check As the operator of this vessel, it is important for you to perform the daily inspections necessary to keep your boat in good shape. Maintaining the proper oil level in your engine crankcase cannot be overemphasized.

Before checking the oil, remember these important points:

Figure 1 — Dipstick Oil Level Check

Cooling System Checks

Do not remove the pressure control cap from the heat exchanger or attempt to drain the coolant until the engine has cooled. Use EXTREME caution when removing the cap. The sudden release of pressure from a heated cooling system can result in a loss of coolant and possible personal injury (scalding) from the hot liquid.

Check the coolant level daily and maintain it near the bottom of the filler neck on the heat exchanger tanks. On some installations, this is done by checking an overflow bottle. Add coolant as necessary, but do not overfull.

r

Measurement of the oil level must be taken on calm seas and with the bilge evacuated.

r

If the engine has been running, allow about 15 minutes after shutdown for oil to drain down to the oil pan.

Make a daily visual check for cooling system leaks. Look for an accumulation of coolant when the engine is running and when it is stopped.

r

The level must be close to the FULL line (at least between the ADD and FULL lines) on the dipstick, but must NOT exceed the FULL line (refer to Figure 1).

The inhibitors in antifreeze solutions should be replenished with a non-chromate corrosion inhibitor supplement when indicated by testing the coolant. Engine coolant should be tested at 150-hour intervals or annually, whichever comes first.

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INTRODUCTION Fuel System Checks Fill the fuel tank with the recommended fuel.

Keeping tanks full reduces water condensation and helps keep fuel cool, which is important to engine performance. Full tanks also reduce the chances for microbe (black slime) growth. Make sure fuel supply shutoff valves (if used) are open.

To ensure proper starting and even running, the fuel system must be primed if air has entered the fuel system. Priming is done by using the hand primer mounted on the injection pump.

Priming is not normally necessary if the filter elements are filled with fuel when installed.

Prolonged use of the starting motor and engine fuel pump to prime the fuel system can result in damage to the starter, fuel pump and injectors, and cause erratic engine operation due to the amount of air in the lines and filters from the supply tank to the cylinder head.

Check the oil level in the auxiliary generator set (if equipped). Add lubricant recommended by the manufacturer.

Check coolant level in the auxiliary generator set and top off, if necessary.

Check turbocharger(s) for signs of oil, coolant or exhaust leaks. Leaks should be corrected before starting the engine.

Check for matted, crushed or oil-soaked turbocharger or riser insulation blankets, if so equipped. Have damage or oil-soaked blankets replaced.

Check engine mounting bolts for tightness.

Retighten if necessary.

STARTING THE ENGINE Before starting the engine for the first time, perform the operations listed.

Initial Engine Start 1. Position the marine gear in neutral and set the speed control lever at idle.

2. Press the starter switch firmly.

Under no circumstance should a starting aid such as ether be used to run the engine until the fuel system is primed. Injector damage will occur if this method is used. The heat generated by the external fuel source will cause the injector tips to be damaged when the fuel cools them. Plunger and bushing assemblies can be scored from running without lubrication.

If the engine is equipped with a fuel/water separator, drain off any water that has accumulated. Water in fuel can seriously affect engine performance and may cause engine damage. MackPower™ recommends installation of a fuel/water separator on marine units.

General Engine System Checks Check drive belts to make sure they are in good condition (not cracked, torn, worn or glazed) and properly adjusted.

Make sure cable connections to the storage battery are clean and tight and battery electrolyte level is normal.

Page 12

To prevent starter motor damage, do not press the starter switch again after the engine has started.

If the engine fails to start within 15 seconds, release the starter switch and allow the starting motor to cool for 15 seconds before trying again. If the engine fails to start after four attempts, an inspection should be made to determine the cause.

Oil Pressure Observe the oil pressure gauge immediately after starting the engine. If no oil pressure is indicated within 10 to 15 seconds, stop the engine and check the oil level gauge. If the oil level is OK, the engine lubrication system should be checked.

The minimum oil pressure should be at least 25 psi (172 kPa) at 1200 rpm. The oil pressure at normal operating speed and temperature should be 50–70 psi (345–483 kPa). If pressure fails to fall within these guidelines, it should be checked with a manual gauge.

5_108.bk Page 13 Thursday, October 4, 2001 11:45 AM

INTRODUCTION RUNNING THE ENGINE Warm-Up Run the engine at part throttle for about five minutes to allow it to warm up before applying a load.

Inspection While the engine is idling, check to make sure that water is flowing out the exhaust pipe or raw water discharge pipe. Look for coolant, fuel or lubricating oil leaks at this time. If any are found, shut down the engine immediately and have leaks repaired after the engine has cooled.

Cooling System Entrapped air must be purged after the cooling system is filled. To do this, allow the engine to warm up without the pressure cap installed. With the marine gear in neutral, increase engine rpm above 1000 rpm and add coolant as required.

Vent the petcock on the water return line at the water-jacketed turbocharger until coolant (no air) comes out. Caution — coolant will be hot. Install the pressure cap after the coolant level has stabilized at the bottom of the heat exchanger tank filler neck. Refill the recovery bottle if coolant is drawn into the engine while purging the air.

If all of the coolant is drawn out of the recovery bottle when the engine cools, remove the pressure cap from the heat exchanger and check to make sure the coolant level is at the bottom of the filler neck. Add coolant as required, replace the pressure cap and fill the recovery bottle to the “Full Cold” level or no more than one-quarter of its volume.

Failure to properly fill the cooling system and purge it of air can result in engine overheating and serious engine damage.

Do not overfill the recovery bottle since this can result in spillage as the coolant expands during engine operation.

Crankcase If the engine oil was replaced, stop the engine after normal operating temperature has been reached. Allow the oil to drain back into the crankcase for approximately 20 minutes and check the oil level. If necessary, add oil to bring the level to the proper mark on the dipstick. Use only the heavy-duty oils recommended.

Turbocharger Make a visual inspection of the turbocharger for oil leaks, coolant leaks, exhaust leaks, excessive noise or vibration. Stop the engine immediately if a leak, unusual noise or vibration is noted. Do not restart the engine until the cause of the concern has been investigated and corrected.

STOPPING THE ENGINE Normal Stopping 1. Decrease engine speed back to normal idle and put all shift levers in the neutral position.

2. Allow the engine to run at idle with no load for four or five minutes. This allows the engine to cool and permits the turbocharger(s) to cool down. After idling four or five minutes, shut down the engine.

ENGINE OUT OF FUEL — HOW TO RESTART. PRIMING THE FUEL SYSTEM When an engine has run out of fuel, there is a definite procedure to follow when restarting it.

The only acceptable method of priming the fuel system is the hand-primer pump. The application of air pressure to the fuel tank or the use of an auxiliary pump to prime the fuel system is NOT RECOMMENDED. These priming techniques may result in severe engine damage caused by leakage of fuel past the supply pump seal and into the crankcase.

1. Fill the fuel tank with the recommended grade of fuel. If only partial filling is possible, add a minimum of 10 gallons (38 liters) of fuel to the tank.

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INTRODUCTION 2. Remove the fuel strainer/water separator from its cover, fill it with fuel and reinstall it.

3. Remove the primary fuel filter (located on the hull of the vessel) from its adapter, fill it with fuel and reinstall it.

4. Remove the secondary fuel filter (located on the engine next to the coolant conditioner canister) from its adapter, fill it with fuel and reinstall it.

To improve engine starting, have replacement elements filled with fuel and ready to install immediately after used elements are removed.

This will prevent possible siphoning and fuel system aeration.

PRIMING THE FUEL SYSTEM

If the engine does not start, refill both filters and repeat priming procedure outlined in Steps 2, 3 and 4.

Do not crank the engine continuously for more than 30 seconds without allowing the starter to cool for two minutes between engine cranking cycles.

INJECTION PUMP AND GOVERNOR SETTINGS

5. Disconnect the inlet hose at the secondary fuel filter.

6. Hand-pump until fuel is seen at the inlet hose fitting. This should take approximately 50 hand pumps.

Excessive hand-priming after fuel is seen at the fitting may make the engine difficult to start.

7. Reconnect the inlet hose to the secondary fuel filter.

8. Start the engine and check fuel filter and strainer for leaks.

Under no circumstances should the starting motor and fuel pump be used to prime the fuel filter and strainer. Prolonged use of the starting motor and fuel pump to prime the fuel system can result in damage to the starter, fuel pump and injectors and cause erratic running of the engine due to the amount of air in the lines and filters.

Page 14

Any unauthorized adjustments of the injection pump and governor settings, other than as specified, can cause serious damage to the engine.

Please be aware of the hazards of attempting to increase the power of the diesel engine by adjusting injection pump and governor settings.

Standard specifications for injection pump and governor settings permit the maximum allowable engine output. Adjustments of the injection pump and governor settings, other than as specified, can cause serious damage to the engine. In some engines, improper adjustments generally produce visual evidence of overfueling, excessive fuel consumption and smoke. The turbocharged diesel engine usually does not produce visual evidence. The possibility of damage from improper adjustments is greater in the turbocharged diesel engine because the usual warning signs may not be present.

In the event that damage results from such unauthorized adjustments, as evidenced by improper settings in the injection pump and governor assembly or broken fastener seals of the same, the cost of repairing such damage will NOT be covered under the MackPower™ Standard Marine Warranty.

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VISUAL IDENTIFICATION

VISUAL IDENTIFICATION

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VISUAL IDENTIFICATION ENGINE MODEL IDENTIFICATION

11GBA number, serial number and various engine adjustments. The engine is also identified by the serial number stamped into the cylinder block on a pad just to the rear of the raw water pump.

Engine Information Plate

2

All engines are identified by an engine information plate located on the front valve cover of the engine. This plate indicates the engine

Figure 2 — Engine Information Plate

Engine Serial Number Identification In addition to the engine information plate on the forward cylinder head cover, the engine is also identified by the engine serial number stamped into the cylinder block. This serial number is located on the block right side, below the turbocharger drain flange/fill tube as shown in Figure 3.

3

Figure 3 — Engine Serial Number 1. Engine Serial Number Location

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COMPONENT LOCATOR

COMPONENT LOCATOR

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COMPONENT LOCATOR ENGINE DESIGN FEATURES AND COMPONENT LOCATOR

4

The following illustrations show the MackPower™ M-E7 marine engine in various views, to identify the major components used on the engine.

Figure 4 — Left Rear Quarter View 1. Turbocharger-to-Water Manifold Return Hose 2. Air Filter Assembly with Integrated Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) 3. Aftercooler (Mounts to Flywheel Housing)

Page 18

4. Aftercooler-to-Gear Oil Cooler Connection Tube 5. Gear Oil Cooler (Mounts to Welded Bracket on Inlet Manifold)

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COMPONENT LOCATOR 5

Figure 5 — Left Side View 1. Heat Exchanger-to-Thermostat Housing Connection 2. LDA Hose-to-Intake Manifold Connection 3. Air Inlet Pipe Between Aftercooler and Inlet Manifold 4. Aftercooler (Uses Raw Water to Cool Engine Intake Air) 5. Engine Breather Hose-to-Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Vacuum Regulator

6. Starter Motor Magnetic Relay 7. Engine Oil Filters with Externally Drained Centri-Max® 8. Oil Pan Drain (Suction) Hose 9. Bundle-Type Engine Oil Cooler 10. Gear Oil Cooler (Cools Transmission Oil)

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COMPONENT LOCATOR 6

Figure 6 — Left Front Quarter View 1. Heat Exchanger (Transfers Engine Coolant Heat to Raw Water) 2. Heat Exchanger Pressure Cap (16 lbs.)

3. Oil Cooler Water Inlet Tube

Page 20

4. Alternator 5. Dual Drive Belt 6. Engine Coolant System Water Pump 7. Water Pump-to-Exhaust Manifold Coolant Connection

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COMPONENT LOCATOR 7

Figure 7 — Right Front Quarter View 1. Secondary Fuel Filter Mounting Location 2. Coolant Conditioner Mounting Location 3. Coolant Conditioner Return Hose to Block 4. Mechanical Tachometer Drive 5. Optional Hydraulic Pump Drive Location

6. Fuel Line Connection from Fuel Tank (Primary Fuel Filter is Mounted Between the Tank and This Connection) 7. Fuel Return Connection to Fuel Tank 8. Fuel Primer Pump 9. Dipstick Tube 10. Injection Pump Lubrication Line

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COMPONENT LOCATOR 8

Figure 8 — Right Side View 1. Coolant System Vent Hose and Connections 2. LDA Hose (Connects Injection Pump LDA Acceleration Smoke Control to Inlet Manifold) 3. Electroless Nickel-Plated Oil Pan 4. Injection Pump Shutdown Solenoid

Page 22

5. Engine Oil Fill Tube 6. Injection Pump Return-to-Idle Assembly 7. Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Oil Drain-Back to Engine-Block Connection 8. Liquid (Engine Coolant) Cooled Exhaust Manifold

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COMPONENT LOCATOR 9

Figure 9 — Right Rear Quarter View 1. Heat Exchanger to Exhaust Pipe (Mixer) Hose 2. Raw Water Inlet to Raw Water Pump 3. Raw Water Pump (Driven by Auxiliary Shaft) 4. Raw Water Pump to Aftercooler Hose 5. Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Oil Drain Back Check Valve

6. Turbocharger Oil Drain to Fill Tube Connection Hose 7. Engine Block to Turbocharger Coolant Hose 8. Exhaust Exit Pipe (Mixes Exhaust with Spent Raw Water Before Discharge) 9. Exhaust Manifold to Water Manifold Hose

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COMPONENT LOCATOR 10

Figure 10 — Rear Engine View 1. Turbocharger Oil Feed 2. Turbocharger Oil Drain-Back Tube 3. Industrial Engine Type Non-Clutch Faced Flywheel 4. Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Oil Drain-Back Hose

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5. Turbocharger-to-Aftercooler Connecting Tube and Hose 6. Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®)-to-Turbocharger Connecting Hose

5_108.bk Page 25 Thursday, October 4, 2001 11:45 AM

TROUBLESHOOTING

TROUBLESHOOTING

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TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS Engine Will Not Crank ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK Possible Cause

Correction

1. Batteries have low output.

1. Check the batteries. Charge or replace as necessary.

2. Loose or corroded battery connections.

2. Clean and tighten battery connections.

3. Broken or corroded wires.

3. Check voltage at the following connections: — Key switch to starter magnetic relay — Starter magnetic relay to starter — Battery to starter Replace or repair as necessary.

4. Faulty starter, starter solenoid or starter magnetic relay.

4. Check operation of starter, starter solenoid and starter magnetic relay. Replace or repair as necessary.

5. Faulty key switch.

5. Replace key switch.

6. Internal seizure.

6. Bar the engine over one complete revolution. If the engine cannot be turned, disassemble the engine and repair as necessary.

Engine Cranks — Will Not Start ENGINE CRANKS — WILL NOT START Possible Cause

Correction

1. Slow cranking speed.

1. Check possible causes and corrections listed in ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK.

2. Emergency shut-off valve closed or partially closed.

2. Check emergency shut-off system. Replace or repair as necessary.

3. No fuel to engine.

3. Check for fuel in the fuel tank. Also check for plugged fuel tank connections, restricted or kinked fuel suction lines, fuel transfer pump failure, or clogged fuel filters.

4. Governor throttle shaft linkage binding/improper setting of accelerator linkage.

4. Check throttle shaft and accelerator linkage. Replace or repair as necessary.

5. Defective fuel transfer pump.

5. Check transfer pump for minimum output pressure.

Change fuel filters if low pressure. Look for air leaks and recheck pressure. If still below minimum, replace transfer pump.

6. Poor quality fuel or water in fuel.

6. Drain fuel from tank. Replace fuel filters and fill fuel tank with specified diesel fuel.

7. Incorrect engine oil viscosity.

7. Drain oil. Replace oil filters and fill crankcase with recommended grade oil.

8. Low compression.

8. Check cylinder compression. If low, refer to LOW COMPRESSION.

9. Injection pump-to-engine timing incorrect.

9. Check injection pump-to-engine timing. Setting is protected by seals, and must be checked by an authorized MACK Fuel Injection System repair facility.

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TROUBLESHOOTING Engine Misfires ENGINE MISFIRES Possible Cause

Correction

1. Poor quality fuel, or water or dirt in the fuel.

1. Drain fuel from tank(s). Replace fuel filters and fill tank(s) with specified diesel fuel.

2. Air in fuel system.

2. Check fuel system for air leaks. Repair as necessary.

(Air generally gets into the fuel system on the suction side of the fuel pump.)

3. Broken or leaking high-pressure fuel lines.

3. Check for fuel leaks. Repair as necessary.

4. Restricted fuel lines or drain lines.

4. Check for proper fuel flow. If no flow, replace lines.

5. Low fuel-supply pressure.

5. Check to be sure there is fuel in the fuel tank. Check for sharp bends or kinks in the fuel line between the fuel tank and the fuel transfer pump. Also check for clogged suction pipe (in the fuel tank) or a plugged fuel suction hose. Check for air in the fuel system, and check the fuel pressure. If the pressure is lower than specified, replace the fuel filters. If still low, replace the transfer pump.

6. Improper valve lash adjustment.

6. Check adjustment. Adjust as necessary.

7. Defective fuel injection nozzles or fuel pump.

7. Run engine at speed that gives maximum misfiring or rough running. Cut the fuel flow to each cylinder, one at a time, by loosening the fuel line nut on the injection pump. If engine rpm does not change when fuel is cut to a cylinder, that cylinder is not firing. Remove the injection nozzle and check. Replace or repair as necessary. If nozzle is OK, check cylinder for low compression. If no fuel is present when line is loosened, pump may be defective. Replace or repair as necessary.

8. Improper timing.

8. Check fuel injection pump-to-engine timing.

9. Cylinder head gasket leakage.

9. Check for visible signs of leakage, coolant in the oil, or traces of oil in the coolant. Use a compression tester to check each cylinder. Replace cylinder head gasket as necessary.

10. Worn camshaft lobe.

10. With valve lash properly adjusted, check rocker arm movement. If not within specification, replace worn parts as necessary.

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TROUBLESHOOTING Engine Stalls at Low Speeds ENGINE STALLS AT LOW SPEEDS Possible Cause

Correction

1. Idle speed set too low.

1. Check idle setting. Adjust as necessary.

2. Fuel tank vent clogged or partially clogged.

2. Check fuel tank vents. Repair as necessary.

3. Low fuel supply.

3. Check for sufficient fuel in the fuel tank. Check for fuel leaks. Check for kinks or sharp bends in the fuel lines.

Check fuel pressure. If not within specification, replace fuel filters. If still low, repair or replace transfer pump as necessary.

4. Injection pump overflow valve leaking, or stuck open or closed.

4. Repair or replace valve as necessary.

5. Defective fuel injection nozzle.

5. Isolate defective nozzle and replace. Refer to item 7 in ENGINE MISFIRES.

6. Defective fuel injection pump.

6. Remove, repair and reinstall pump as necessary.

7. High parasitic load.

7. Check for excessive loading due to engaged auxiliary attachments.

Erratic Engine Speed ERRATIC ENGINE SPEED Possible Cause

Correction

1. Air leaks in fuel suction line.

1. Check for air leaks. Replace or repair as necessary.

2. Throttle linkage loose or out of adjustment.

2. Check throttle linkage. Replace, repair or adjust as necessary.

3. Injection pump governor failure.

3. Remove injection pump and have it checked by an authorized MACK Fuel Injection System Repair facility as follows: — Check for damaged or broken springs or other components.

— Check for free travel of the fuel rack.

— Make sure the correct governor springs are installed.

— Repair or replace damaged parts as necessary.

— Recalibrate the injection pump and reinstall.

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TROUBLESHOOTING Low Power LOW POWER Possible Cause

Correction

1. Restrictions in the air-intake system such as a clogged air filter(s).

1. Check the air pressure in the air-intake manifold.

Replace the air filter and make necessary repairs to the air system.

2. Poor quality fuel.

2. Drain fuel tank(s), clean system and replace fuel filters.

Fill tank with specified diesel fuel. Bleed system.

3. Damage or restrictions in the accelerator/shut-off cable linkage.

3. Check linkage and adjust to achieve full travel. Replace if damaged or bent.

4. Low fuel pressure.

4. Check fuel supply lines for kinks or restrictions. Check for air in system. Check fuel pressure. If low, replace fuel filters. If still low, replace or repair fuel transfer pump.

Also check for sticking, binding or defective fuel overflow valve. Repair or replace.

5. Improper valve lash adjustment.

5. Adjust valve lash to specified clearance.

6. Incorrect fuel injection timing.

6. Adjust fuel injection pump timing.

7. Plugged fuel tank vents.

7. Clean the fuel tank vents.

8. Fuel injection nozzle failure.

8. Isolate defective nozzle. Replace or repair as necessary.

9. Carbon or other friction-causing deposits in turbocharger.

9. Inspect turbocharger. Clean, repair or replace as necessary.

10. Internal fuel injection pump wear that prevents full rack travel.

10. Remove injection pump. Send the pump to an authorized MACK Fuel Injection System Repair facility for repair and recalibration. Then reinstall the pump.

11. Low boost pressure.

11. Check for restrictions in the air-intake system or air leaks between the turbocharger compressor discharge and the engine’s inlet manifold.

12. Exhaust restriction.

12. Check for restrictions in the exhaust system.

13. Low compression.

13. Check possible causes and corrections in LOW COMPRESSION.

14. Restrictions in cooler.

14. Perform restriction pressure test. Clean any restrictions.

15. Restrictions in cooler inlet or outlet tubes.

15. Disconnect tubing and clean restrictions.

16. Leaking cooler.

16. Repair or replace leaking cooler.

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TROUBLESHOOTING Engine Will Not Achieve No-Load Governed RPM ENGINE WILL NOT ACHIEVE NO-LOAD GOVERNED RPM Possible Cause

Correction

1.

Air in fuel system.

1.

Check system for air leaks and correct as necessary. Air will generally enter the fuel system on the suction side of the fuel transfer pump.

2.

Accelerator linkage loose or out of adjustment.

2.

Check linkage. Make necessary repairs or adjustments.

3.

Restricted fuel lines or stuck overflow valve.

3.

Check flow in fuel lines. Check overflow valve for defects, improper setting, sticking, or defective spring.

4.

High idle adjustment set too high.

4.

Check high idle adjustments. Adjust as necessary.

5.

Fuel injection pump calibration incorrect.

5.

Remove injection pump and nozzle assemblies from the engine. Send the pump to an authorized MACK Fuel Injection System Repair facility for repair and recalibration. Then reinstall the pump.

6.

Internal fuel pump governor wear.

6.

Remove the injection pump. Send the pump to an authorized MACK Fuel Injection System Repair facility for repair and recalibration. Then reinstall the pump.

Excessive Engine Vibration EXCESSIVE ENGINE VIBRATION Possible Cause

Correction

1. Loose vibration damper hub nut bolt.

1. Check condition of mounting. Make necessary repairs and retorque.

2. Defective or damaged vibration damper.

2. Replace damper if damaged or defective.

3. Engine supports loose, worn or defective.

3. Tighten all mounting bolts, or replace components as necessary.

4. Engine misfiring or running rough.

4. Check possible causes and corrections in ENGINE MISFIRES.

Excessive Black or Gray Smoke EXCESSIVE BLACK OR GRAY SMOKE Possible Cause

Correction

1. Insufficient air for combustion.

1. Check air cleaner for restrictions. Check inlet manifold pressure, and inspect the turbocharger for proper operation. Repair or replace as necessary.

2. Excessive exhaust back pressure.

2. Check for faulty exhaust piping or restrictions in the exhaust. Repair or replace as necessary.

3. Improper grade of fuel.

3. Drain fuel from tank(s). Replace fuel filters and fill tank(s) with specified diesel fuel.

4. Faulty fuel injection nozzle.

4. Isolate faulty nozzle and replace. Refer to item 7 in ENGINE MISFIRES.

5. Improper injection pump-to-engine timing.

5. Check timing and adjust as necessary.

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TROUBLESHOOTING Excessive Blue or White Smoke EXCESSIVE BLUE OR WHITE SMOKE Possible Cause

Correction

1. Engine lubricating oil level too high.

1. Drain excess lubricating oil. If the oil is contaminated with either fuel or coolant, completely drain the oil pan.

Change the oil filters. Locate the source of the leak and correct. Fill with specified engine oil. Check the oil level.

DO NOT overfill.

2. Turbocharger oil seal failure.

2. Check for oil in the inlet manifold. Install remanufactured turbocharger.

3. Worn piston rings.

3. Check cylinder walls for scuffing. Clean or replace sleeves as necessary. Install new piston rings.

4. Engine misfiring or running rough.

4. Check possible causes and corrections in ENGINE MISFIRES.

5. Incorrect fuel injection pump-to-engine timing.

5. Check and reset timing as necessary.

6. Injection pump LDA diaphragm failure.

6. Check for leakage past diaphragm. Replace or repair as necessary.

Excessive Fuel Consumption EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION Possible Cause

Correction

1. Restrictions in the air induction system.

1. Inspect system. Remove restrictions and replace or repair as necessary.

2. External fuel system leakage.

2. Check external piping on fuel system for signs of fuel leakage. Replace or repair as necessary.

3. Incorrect fuel injection pump-to-engine timing.

3. Check fuel injection pump-to-engine timing. Reset as necessary.

4. Defective injection nozzle assembly.

4. Isolate defective nozzle assembly. Replace or repair as necessary.

5. Incorrect fuel injection pump calibration.

5. Remove injection pump and nozzle assemblies from the engine. Send the pump to an authorized MACK Fuel Injection System Repair facility for recalibration. Then reinstall the pump and nozzle assemblies.

6. Internal engine wear.

6. Overhaul engine.

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TROUBLESHOOTING Excessive Oil Consumption EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION Possible Cause

Correction

1. External oil leaks.

1. Check engine for visible signs of oil leakage. Look for loose or stripped oil drain plugs, leaking gaskets (cylinder head cover, etc.) and front and rear oil seal leakage.

2. Clogged crankcase breather pipe.

2. Remove any obstruction.

3. Excessive exhaust back pressure.

3. Check exhaust pressure. Repair as necessary.

4. Worn valve guides.

4. Replace valve guides.

5. Air compressor passing oil.

5. Repair or replace air compressor.

6. Turbocharger sealing ring failure.

6. Check for oil in the inlet manifold. Install remanufactured turbocharger.

7. Internal engine wear.

7. Overhaul engine.

8. Injection pump LDA diaphragm failure.

8. Check for leakage past diaphragm. Replace or repair as necessary.

Engine Overheats ENGINE OVERHEATS Possible Cause

Correction

1. Coolant level low.

1. Locate cause. Look for leaking gaskets or loose or leaking hoses. Repair, replace or tighten as necessary.

Replenish coolant.

2. Loose or worn fan belts.

2. Adjust belt tension or replace belts as necessary.

3. Restricted flow through heat exchanger.

3. Clean any restrictions or replace exchanger as necessary.

4. Defective heat exchanger pressure cap.

4. Test pressure of the cap. Replace cap, if necessary.

5. Defective coolant thermostat or temperature gauge.

5. Check opening temperature of thermostat. Check for correct installation. Replace as necessary. Check temperature gauge. Replace if defective.

6. Combustion gases in coolant.

6. Determine point where gases are entering the cooling system. Repair or replace parts as necessary.

7. Plugged oil cooler.

7. Remove oil cooler. Disassemble, remove restrictions and replace parts as necessary. Reinstall.

8. Defective water pump.

8. Remove, repair or reinstall water pump as necessary.

9. Incorrect fuel injection pump-to-engine timing.

9. Check fuel injection pump-to-engine timing. Reset timing as necessary.

10. Improper valve lash adjustment.

10. Adjust valve lash to specified clearance.

11. Defective raw water pump

11. Check for damaged impeller and proper functioning.

Remove, repair and reinstall as necessary.

12. Closed engine sea water seacock.

12. Open engine sea water seacock.

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TROUBLESHOOTING High Exhaust Temperature HIGH EXHAUST TEMPERATURE Possible Cause

Correction

1. Restrictions in the air induction system.

1. Inspect air induction system. Remove restrictions and/or replace defective parts.

2. Air leaks in the air induction system.

2. Check pressure in the air intake manifold. Look for leaking piping, and/or loose clamps. Make necessary repairs.

3. Leaks in the exhaust system (before the turbocharger).

3. Check exhaust system for leaks. Make necessary repairs.

4. Incorrect fuel injection pump-to-engine timing.

4. Check fuel injection pump-to-engine timing. Adjust as necessary.

5. Restrictions in the exhaust system.

5. Inspect system. Make necessary repairs.

6. Improper valve lash adjustment.

6. Adjust valve lash setting to specified clearance.

7. Defective fuel injection nozzle assembly.

7. Isolate defective nozzle assembly. Remove, repair and/ or replace and reinstall.

8. Incorrect fuel injection pump calibration.

8. Remove injection pump and nozzle assemblies. Send fuel injection pump to an authorized MACK Fuel Injection System Repair facility for recalibration. Then reinstall the pump and nozzle assemblies.

Low Engine Oil Pressure LOW ENGINE OIL PRESSURE Possible Cause

Correction

1. Oil level insufficient. Oil leaking from oil line, gasket, etc.

1. Check engine oil level. Add oil if necessary. Check for oil leaks. Repair as necessary.

2. Incorrect oil viscosity.

2. Drain oil, change oil filters, and fill with the proper grade oil meeting MACK specifications.

3. Defective oil pressure gauge.

3. Check the operation of the oil pressure gauge. If defective, replace.

4. Clogged oil filter(s).

4. Replace oil filter(s). Clean or replace oil cooler. Drain oil and refill with oil meeting MACK specifications.

5. Engine oil diluted with diesel fuel.

5. Check fuel system for leaks. Make necessary repairs.

Drain diluted oil, change oil filters, and refill with oil meeting MACK specifications.

6. Defective oil pump relief valve.

6. Remove oil pressure relief valve and check condition of seat. Check that relief valve spring is not sticking, and check for proper spring tension. Check cap. Check assembly parts. Using the incorrect parts results in incorrect oil pressure. Make any necessary repairs or install a new relief valve.

7. Oil pump gears not meshing properly.

7. Check mounting arrangement. If the engine has been rebuilt, check that the gear ratio of the oil pump drive and driven gears are correct. Incorrect gear combination results in immediate gear failure and possible engine damage. Check for correct oil pad gasket.

8. Excessive clearance between crankshaft and bearings.

8. Overhaul the engine. Replace any worn/defective parts.

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TROUBLESHOOTING Engine Oil in Coolant ENGINE OIL IN COOLANT Possible Cause

Correction

1. Defective oil cooler core.

1. Disassemble and repair or replace oil cooler core.

2. Blown head gasket.

2. Replace head gasket.

Coolant in Engine Oil COOLANT IN ENGINE OIL Possible Cause

Correction

Cylinder sleeve seat seal failure.

Repair cylinder sleeve seat seals.

Low Compression LOW COMPRESSION Possible Cause

Correction

1. Improper valve lash adjustment.

1. Adjust valve lash to specified clearance.

2. Blown head gasket.

2. Replace head gasket.

3. Broken or weak valve springs.

3. Check and replace defective parts.

4. Burned valves, seats or parts.

4. Remove, recondition and reinstall heads.

5. Piston rings stuck, worn, broken or improperly seated.

5. Overhaul engine.

6. Camshaft or valve lifters worn.

6. Replace camshaft and/or valve lifters. Overhaul engine if necessary.

Excessive Crankcase Pressure EXCESSIVE CRANKCASE PRESSURE Possible Cause

Correction

1. Engine lubricating oil level too high.

1. Drain excess lubricating oil. If the oil is contaminated with either fuel or coolant, completely drain the oil pan.

Change the oil filters. Locate the source of the leak and correct. Fill with specified engine oil. Check the oil level.

DO NOT overfill.

2. Turbocharger oil seal failure.

2. Check for oil in the inlet manifold. Install remanufactured turbocharger.

3. Worn piston rings.

3. Check cylinder walls for scuffing. Clean or replace sleeves as necessary. Install new piston rings.

4. Injection pump LDA diaphragm failure.

4. Check for leakage past diaphragm. Replace or repair as necessary.

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TROUBLESHOOTING CAMSHAFT TIMING CHECK

CAMSHAFT LOBE LIFT CHECK

Correct camshaft timing is essential for proper engine performance. Incorrect camshaft timing may be suspected if soon after engine overhaul, lack of performance, unusual noise or excessive smoke is reported.

When diagnosing potential lifter or camshaft failures, 0.030 inch (0.76 mm) less than the lift of a new camshaft is considered the minimum acceptable camshaft lobe lift for used components. Intake lobe lift differs depending on the camshaft part number. Camshaft lobe lift is measured by using a dial indicator at the push rod with the rocker arm adjusted to zero lash.

Refer to the chart below for the minimum acceptable camshaft lobe lift for the M-E7 camshaft.

Camshaft timing can be checked using either cylinder No. 3 or No. 4 inlet valve. For example purposes, No. 3 cylinder will be used in the following steps.

1. Remove cylinder head cover over cylinder No. 3.

2. Locate inlet valve(s) for the No. 3 cylinder (sixth valve from front of engine). Position No. 3 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) (compression stroke).

MINIMUM ACCEPTABLE CAMSHAFT LOBE LIFT Camshaft Part No.

Exhaust Lobe

454GC5205

0.300″

Intake Lobe 0.300″

3. Loosen (back off) the inlet valve rocker adjusting screw. Ensure valve yoke is correctly adjusted. Adjust inlet valve to zero lash.

4. Position dial indicator (magnetic-base type) probe on valve spring retainer. Preload indicator to 1/2 indicator plunger travel.

5. Bar the engine in direction of normal rotation and carefully observe direction in which needle of indicator travels. Use dial indicator to determine when the inlet valve is fully open.

6. Stop rotating engine when travel of dial indicator needle stops. If dial indicator needle reverses direction, full-open position is passed. Repeat procedure.

7. Check timing indicator. Pointer should be within three degrees (retard or advance) of timing indicator specification given in following table. A difference of approximately 10 degrees indicates crankshaft-to-camshaft timing gears may be mismatched one tooth.

CAMSHAFT AND TIMING INDICATOR RELATIONSHIP Camshaft Part No. 5205

Timing Indicator 27 Degrees BTDC

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TROUBLESHOOTING CYLINDER HEAD AND CYLINDER BLOCK LEAK TEST PROCEDURES Verify suspected leaks in the cylinder heads or cylinder block by pressure testing before deciding to replace a cylinder head or the block. Do not use magnaflux inspections alone as replacement criteria.

Cylinder Head and Head Gasket Check 1. Look for coolant stains around the 3/4-inch NPT pipe plugs on top of the cylinder heads.

Check plug torque. Plug torque specification is 55 lb-ft (75 N•m). Refer to Figure 11.

11

Before proceeding with the following tests, make sure leakage is not from the oil cooler. Watch for small bubbles indicating minor leaks that can develop into more severe leaks during engine operation.

To prevent unnecessary engine disassembly, perform the simpler checks first.

Figure 11 — Cylinder Head Pipe Plugs (3/4-Inch NPT)

Before performing any unnecessary tests, look for stains around the 3/4 inch NPT plugs on the tops of the cylinder heads. Check that the plugs are tightened to 55 lb-ft (75 N•m) torque.

2. Before removing thermostat, drain coolant from the cooling system until coolant level is below the thermostat housing.

Cylinder head pipe plugs have encapsulated epoxy sealant applied to the threads. The epoxy sealant locks the plugs in place after tightening.

These plugs will not turn when an attempt is made to tighten them. If a coolant leak is suspected, remove the plug by heating it to approximately 400°F (205°C) using a torch.

Before reinstalling the plug, thoroughly clean the threads of the plug and the threads in the cylinder head, using Loctite® Primer T. Reseal the plug threads with Loctite® 277 and reinstall the plug and tighten to 55 lb-ft (75 N•m) torque.

4. Remove fan belts from the water pump.

3. Remove the thermostat and leave the thermostat housing open. Install a short section of hose, approximately 6–8 inches (152–203 mm) long, on thermostat housing.

Add enough coolant to fill the thermostat housing.

5. Start engine and run at 1000 rpm.

6. Observe coolant in the thermostat housing for air bubbles. This indicates combustion pressurization of the cooling system and possible cylinder head gasket failure. Air bubbles may also indicate leakage from the cylinder head or oil passage.

7. Apply a soap-and-water solution between the two cylinder heads to check for external combustion leakage.

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TROUBLESHOOTING Cylinder Head Fuel Passages Leak Check

Cylinder Head Oil Passage Leak Check Refer to Figure 12.

1. Remove cylinder head from the engine.

The symptoms of coolant-in-fuel are a loss of coolant with no apparent external leak, together with one or more of the following: coolant in fuel tank, coolant in fuel filter or yellow fuel out of fuel return line.

1. Disconnect the return fuel interconnecting tube between the front and rear cylinder heads. Run a line from each cylinder head into a container.

2. Pressurize the cooling system with a maximum of 15 psi (103 kPa) air pressure and look for coolant coming out of a fuel return line.

3. An alternative method is to disconnect the fuel return line at the front of the front cylinder head. Introduce a maximum air pressure of 25 psi (172 kPa) to the fitting in the cylinder head. Then look for air bubbles in the coolant.

2. Install a suitable plug to seal the rocker arm oil passage at deck side of head. There are two ways to plug the hole: r

Drill and tap the oil passage to accept a pipe plug.

r

Insert a suitable rubber plug and clamp the plug in position with a C-clamp.

3. Install an air fitting in the rocker arm passage in the top of the head. Use a discarded rocker arm bracket, preferably with an oil feed passage. Cut the bracket through the rocker arm shaft bore parallel to the mounting surface. Drill and tap the oil supply passage to accept an air fitting.

4. Bolt the modified bracket, with air fitting, to the cylinder head over the oil supply passage.

5. Immerse cylinder head in water and heat to 150°F (66°C).

4. After determining which cylinder head is suspected of leaking, remove the nozzles from that cylinder head and pressurize the cooling system with a maximum of 15 psi (103 kPa). Look into each nozzle sleeve bore for signs of coolant leakage.

6. Apply up to 50 psi (345 kPa) air pressure to air fitting adapter installed in rocker arm oil passage. Check for air bubbles. The formation of air bubbles indicates internal leakage in cylinder head oil passage.

5. A cracked or leaking nozzle sleeve should be replaced as an on-engine repair using the procedures described in the ENGINE DISASSEMBLY section. If replacing the nozzle sleeve(s) and the re-pressure test shows that the problem still exists, the cylinder head(s) should be replaced.

Do not exceed 50 psi (345 kPa). Damage to seals or cup plugs may result.

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TROUBLESHOOTING 12

Figure 12 — Cylinder Head Oil Passage Leak Check

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TROUBLESHOOTING Cylinder Head Coolant Passage Leak Check (Off Engine)

3. Use suitable plate and gasket to seal water manifold openings. Install an air fitting onto the plate.

Refer to Figure 13.

1. Remove cylinder head from engine.

4. Immerse cylinder head in water. Heat water and head to 150°F (66°C).

2. Fabricate a suitable 3/4-inch-thick (19.1 mm) steel plate and a 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) rubber gasket. The plate must have cutouts for the entire combustion chamber. Position plate and gasket assembly on underside of head and secure with C-clamps.

5. Apply up to 50 psi (345 kPa) air pressure to the fitting installed in the plate covering the water manifold opening. Check for air bubbles. The formation of air bubbles indicates that cylinder head coolant passages may be leaking.

13

Figure 13 — Cylinder Head Coolant Passage Leak Check

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TROUBLESHOOTING Cylinder Block Coolant Passage Leak Check (Cylinder Heads Removed)

2. Remove water pump assembly and seal opening with a suitable plate and rubber gasket. The plate must be fabricated so that water heated to 150°F (66°Χ) and pressurized to 50 psi (345 kPa) can be introduced into the system.

Refer to Figure 14.

1. Fabricate two 3/4-inch-thick (19.1 mm) steel plates to simulate cylinder heads. The plates must have cutouts for the head capscrews and liners. Use a 1/4-inch (6.4 mm) rubber gasket as a seal. Install the plates onto the cylinder head.

As an alternative to step 1, conduct the test using two known leak-free cylinder heads complete with gaskets and fire rings in place of the steel plates.

With this alternative, a water manifold (with the outlet end sealed) can be used to seal off the cylinder head coolant ports. Fittings can be installed on the water manifold to introduce the heated water and air pressure needed for the test.

3. Apply approximately 50 psi (345 kPa) air pressure into the cooling system. Visually inspect the cylinder block for signs of air and water leaks.

Do not exceed 50 psi (345 kPa). Damage to seals or cup plugs may result.

14

Figure 14 — Cylinder Block Coolant Passage Leak Check

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TROUBLESHOOTING Raw Water Pump Impeller Troubleshooting Guide 15

Figure 15 — Impeller Troubleshooting Guide

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NOTES

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MAINTENANCE

MAINTENANCE

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MAINTENANCE MARINE ENGINE SERVICE INTERVALS It is recommended that the following items be checked each day prior to starting the engine.

The oil pressure should be checked each day immediately after start-up.

The following is intended as a guide for establishing preventive maintenance intervals.

The recommendations given should be followed as closely as possible to obtain long and optimum performance from your MackPower™ engine.

Intervals indicated on the chart are time (hours) of actual operation.

The intervals shown apply only to the maintenance functions described. These functions should be coordinated with other regularly scheduled vessel maintenance.

The “daily” instructions apply to routine or daily starting of an engine. They do not apply to a new engine or one that has not been operated for a considerable period of time. Follow instructions given under Preparations for Starting the Engine the First Time.

MARINE ENGINE PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE — DAILY SCHEDULE

Maintenance Item 1. Lubricating Oil* 2. Fuel and Fuel Tank* 3. Fuel Lines and Flexible Hoses* 4. Cooling System* 5. Turbocharger, Exhaust Connections* 6. Air System, Cleaners* 7. Fuel/Water Separator and Filter* 8. Oil Pressure* 9. Raw Water Pump* * See item in text.

MARINE ENGINE SERVICE INTERVALS Component

Interval

Lube Oil

150 hrs.

Lube Oil Filters

150 hrs.

Coolant Conditioner

150 hrs.

Fuel Filters

150 hrs.

Fuel Filters/Water Separators

150 hrs.

Coolant Drain

1,000 hrs. or 1 year — Pleasure Craft 4,000 hrs. or 2 years — Commercial Vessel

Air Filter and Vacuum Limiter

Clean when restriction indicator is red, at 250 hrs., or once per season, whichever occurs first.

Replace after three cleanings.

Raw Water Pump Impeller

Subjective, but replace at least once per season.

Raw Water Zincs

Check initially every 60 days, then as required or annually.

Replace when reduced to 50% of original size.

Heat Exchanger

Inspect and clean once per season.

Fuel Injectors

Inspect for proper opening pressure and spray pattern every 3000 hrs.

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MAINTENANCE GENERAL MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS Turbocharger and Exhaust Connections

To avoid personal injury or turbocharger damage, do not remove, attach or tighten turbocharger air intake ducting while the engine is operating or operate the engine with the ducting removed.

Visually inspect the mountings, intake and exhaust ducting and connections for leaks daily.

Check the oil inlet and outlet lines for leaks or restrictions to oil flow. Check for unusual noise or vibration and, if excessive, stop the engine and do not operate until the cause is determined.

Every 12 months, the exhaust retaining nuts, exhaust flange clamp and other manifold connections should also be checked for leakage and tightened, if necessary.

If so equipped, check heat-insulating exhaust system blankets for damage daily. Torn, matted, crushed, oil-soaked or otherwise damaged insulation blankets must be replaced immediately.

INSTALLATION 1. When identical belts are used on the same drive, the belts must be replaced as a matched set. (MackPower™ M-E7 marine engines use matched set belts for alternator and water pump drive.)

2. To install belts, shorten the distance between the pulley centers and place the belts over the pulleys without force. Do not pry a belt over a pulley.

3. Misalignment of pulleys should not exceed 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) for each foot of distance between pulley centers.

4. Belts should not bottom in the pulley grooves or protrude in excess of 3/32 inch (2.4 mm) above top edge of the grooves.

5. Belt riding depth should not vary more than 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) on matched belt sets.

Belts should not rub against any adjacent parts of the engine.

6. Sharp edges on the pulley grooves will produce excessive wear and premature failure of a V-belt. Care should be taken, especially with machined pulleys, to make sure that a radius of at least 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) is obtained at the outer edge of the grooves.

ADJUSTMENT

Belt Drive System Maintenance In order to obtain maximum belt life, proper maintenance, installation and adjustment procedures must be followed. Drive belt tension should be checked every 150 hours and adjusted, if necessary. Periodically check belts for splits, cracks and glazing. Replace any belts as needed.

When installing new belts, initially tighten them between 130–150 lbs. (58–67 daN) gauge reading.

For consistent measurements, use belt tension gauge BT-3373-F, or equivalent, to check the belt tension.

MAINTENANCE r

Check the belt tension when performing preventive maintenance inspections. If tension is less than 75 lbs. (33 daN), increase belt tension to 110–120 lbs.

(49–53 daN).

If belts squeak or squeal, clean belts with an approved cleaning fluid. Replace belts that are severely worn, frayed, cracked or glazed.

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MAINTENANCE Most pleasure craft owners should clean their filters each boating season. Proper care of your air filter is so important that this whole page is committed to instructing you on the proper method of cleaning them. For best results (and to avoid damage to your AIRSEP® and vacuum regulator air filters), use only the Walker Cleaning and Re-Oiling Kit (part No. DDF9000). For information, contact your local Walker AIRSEP® dealer. Failure to clean the AIRSEP® filter and the vacuum regulator/limiter will affect the operation of the AIRSEP® and may cause damage to the engine.

16

Figure 16 — Checking Belt Tension with Gauge

1. Check at the center of the longest span, and chalk-mark the point checked.

2. Run the engine approximately 5 to 10 minutes, allow the belts to cool, then recheck belt tension at the same chalk-mark point with the chalk-mark in the center of the longest span. If the belt tension is less than 100 lbs. (45 daN), tighten to approximately 110–120 lbs. (49–53 daN).

A filter that is damaged or clogged with soot due to an exhaust leak may not be able to be cleaned to maximum flow condition. Replacement of the element may be necessary.

1. Pre-Cleaning Release the air filter element from the AIRSEP® by removing the four long springs securing the cover and filter onto the blowby recirculation unit housing using pliers, as shown in Figure 17. Tap the filter element to dislodge any large embedded particles or dirt. Then gently brush the filter element with a soft bristle brush. (Note: If complete cleaning at this time is impractical, you may re-oil and reinstall the air filter element.)

For belts already in service, retension to 110–120 lbs. (49–53 daN) when tension drops below 75 lbs. (33 daN).

Blow-By Recirculation Unit 17

GENERAL INFORMATION Replace or clean the filter and vacuum limiter when the air inlet restriction indicator turns red.

This indicates the maximum allowable system restriction has been reached. Replace the filter and vacuum limiter every two years or 1,500 hours of engine operation (whichever occurs first), regardless of apparent condition.

The air filter and vacuum regulator filter should be replaced after three cleanings.

BLOW-BY RECIRCULATION FILTER — AIR FILTER SERVICING People often ask why an air filter is needed. The answer is: pollution. The truth is that most boaters operate their boats in urban areas close to shore where there is more dirt in the air than they realize. It doesn’t take long to see the dirt building up on the air filters.

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Figure 17 — Releasing Filter Cover and Filter

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MAINTENANCE 2. Spray On Cleaner Each bottle of Walker Cleaning Solution is good for four filter cleanings when using a standard size filter. Spray the cleaning solution on the filter elements. Filter elements can be rolled or soaked in a shallow pan of solution for 10 minutes (dilute the solution with a small amount of water).

Do not use the following methods or liquids for cleaning the filter element: r

NO GASOLINE CLEANING

r

NO STEAM CLEANING

r

NO CAUSTIC CLEANING SOLUTIONS

r

NO HIGH PRESSURE WATER OR AIR

r

NO PARTS-CLEANING SOLVENTS

Do not use any of the following lubricants to re-oil the filter element: r

NEVER USE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID.

r

NEVER USE MOTOR OIL.

r

NEVER USE DIESEL FUEL.

r

NEVER USE WD-40®, OR ANY OTHER LIGHTWEIGHT OIL. 6. Maintenance Schedule The Walker AIRSEP® Air Filter Element should be cleaned every 250 hours of operation or once a year, whichever comes first. The air filter element should be replaced after three cleanings. The vacuum regulator/limiter must also be cleaned every 250 hours, as described below.

3. Rinse Off Rinse off the filter element with low water pressure. Tap water is O.K. Always flush from the clean side to the dirty side. This will remove the particles and dirt, and not drive it into the filter.

4. Drying the Filter After rinsing, shake off all the excess water and let the filter element dry naturally.

(Leaving outside in the sun will speed the process.) Do not do the following: r

DO NOT USE COMPRESSED AIR.

r

DO NOT USE OPEN FLAME.

r

DO NOT USE HEAT DRYERS.

5. Re-Oiling the Filter After cleaning, always re-oil the filter element with Walker Air Filter Oil before using. The effectiveness of the air filter is greatly reduced if it is used without oiling.

Sparingly squeeze small amounts of the oil out of the bottle across the top of each pleat.

Let the oil wick into the filter element for 20 minutes. Then re-oil any white spots that are still showing.

In addition to the regular maintenance schedule, the air filter element and vacuum regulator/limiter filter must be cleaned any time the restriction gauge on the AIRSEP® turns red.

7. Cleaning the Vacuum Regulator/Limiter The vacuum regulator/limiter filter can be cleaned without removing the regulator from the system. Using a standard blade screwdriver, undo the filter and follow steps 1 through 5. Reinstall the filter when done.

To clean the vacuum limiter, do not attempt to remove the filter. Remove and clean the entire unit by simply following the same cleaning and oiling steps listed above — steps 1 through 5. Reinstall the unit when done.

The Walker cleaning kit cleans up to four 9″ x 12″ elements. Order part No. DDF9000.

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MAINTENANCE 8. Resetting the Air Restriction Gauge If the filter is being replaced due to the air restriction gauge indicating filter capacity is totally used, the filter restriction gauge needs to be reset by pressing the reset button on top of the gauge.

18

Engine Oil Level Check As the operator of this vessel, it is important for you to perform the daily inspections necessary to keep your boat in good shape. Maintaining the proper oil level in your engine crankcase cannot be overemphasized.

Before checking the oil, remember these important points: r

Measurement of the oil level must be taken on calm seas and with the bilge evacuated.

r

If the engine has been running, allow about 15 minutes after shutdown for oil to drain down to the oil pan.

r

The level must be close to the FULL line (at least between the ADD and FULL lines) on the dipstick, but must NOT exceed the FULL line (refer to illustration below).

19

Figure 18 — Filter Air Restriction Gauge 1. Air Restriction Gauge Top Reset Button

2. Air Restriction Gauge Location

Engine Oil Maintenance Requirements LUBRICATING OIL Check the oil level daily with the engine stopped.

If necessary, add sufficient oil to raise the level to the proper mark on the dipstick. All diesel engines are designed to use some oil, so the periodic addition of oil is normal.

Figure 19 — Dipstick Oil Level Check

Oil Pressure Check If the oil level is constantly above normal, and excess lube oil has not been added to the crankcase, consult with an authorized MackPower™ service outlet for the cause. Fuel or coolant dilution of lube oil can result in serious damage.

Lube oil is normally changed every 150 hours.

Before adding lube oil, refer to the Lubrication Oil guide.

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Under normal operation, oil pressure is noted each time the engine is started. If the engine is equipped with a warning light instead of a pressure gauge, have the oil pressure checked and recorded every 500 hours.

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MAINTENANCE When to Change the Oil

General Information

During use, engine lubricating oil undergoes deterioration from combustion byproducts and contamination by the engine. Certain components in a lubricant additive package are designed to deplete with use. For this reason, regardless of the oil formulation, regular oil drain intervals are necessary. These intervals may vary in length, depending on engine operation, fuel quality and lubricant quality. Generally, shorter oil drain intervals extend engine life through prompt replenishment of the protection qualities in the lubricant.

Lubricating oil filters should be changed whenever the engine oil is changed. Before changing filters, consult with an authorized MackPower™ service outlet for required part number.

The oil drain intervals should be scheduled so as not to exceed 150 hours of operation. Always install new engine oil filters when the oil is changed.

Disposable Spin-On Oil Filter Replacement

Used Lubricating Oil Analysis A used oil analysis program is recommended for monitoring crankcase oil in all engines. Oil analysis consists of a series of laboratory tests conducted on the engine lubricant. Since an oil analysis cannot completely assess the lubricating oil for continued service, it should not be used to extend oil drain intervals.

Dispose of used lubricating oil, filter and gasket in an environmentally approved manner according to state and/or federal (EPA) recommendations.

The Use of High Sulfur Fuels The combustion of high sulfur fuels (greater than 0.5% sulfur) will shorten engine life through accelerated wear out of piston rings. High sulfur fuel forms acids during combustion, particularly during idling and low temperature operation. The best defense against the effects of high sulfur fuel is to shorten oil drain intervals. The proper drain interval may be determined by oil analysis.

OIL FILTER ELEMENT AND CENTRI-MAX® FILTER REPLACEMENT SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED r

Fuel and Oil Filter Wrench J 24783

r

Oil Filter Wrench J 29927

The oil filter mounting adapter is designed to accommodate a poppet-style relief valve. When performing an oil and filter change, it is suggested that the function of the poppet-style relief valve be checked by pushing against the viton disk to verify spring tension.

Change oil and replace oil filters at every 150 hours of service using the following procedure: 1. Run the engine until normal operating temperature is reached. Then, shut off the engine and drain the oil before the engine cools.

2. Thoroughly clean the area around the filters before removing.

3. Using tool J 24783, or equivalent, remove both spin-on filters and wipe the filter mounting base clean.

4. Prefill each filter with 2 quarts (1.9 liters) of the specified engine oil. DO NOT allow any contaminants to enter the filters while prefilling.

5. Apply a film of clean engine oil to the sealing gasket on each new filter.

6. Install the filters and tighten 3/4 to 1 turn after the gasket contacts the base.

7. Fill the crankcase with the recommended engine oil.

8. Start the engine and check for leaks. Run the engine for approximately five minutes, then shut it off and recheck the oil level. Add oil if necessary.

Use of anything other than genuine MACK filters may cause damage and void the engine warranty. Change filters according to the recommended maintenance schedule.

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MAINTENANCE Centri-Max® Filter Assembly

5. Remove and discard the filter seal and rotor.

Clean the filter housing.

There are different style rotors used in the Centri-Max® assembly. As such, it is important that the proper rotor be used in the Centri-Max® unit for which it was designed. The MackPower™ M-E7 marine engine uses the externally drained swept rotor design.

6. Install a new filter seal and rotor in the filter housing.

7. Apply a thin film of engine oil to the sealing gasket. Install the centrifugal filter housing and tighten the housing BY HAND an additional 3/4 turn after the gasket contacts the base.

The more efficient “swept” rotor (part No. 236GB244B) was implemented into production with the first M-E7. The swept rotor is easily identified by the ribs on the rounded end, which are curved rather than straight.

8. Install the drain hose on the base of the filter housing and tighten the hose clamps at the cylinder block and filter housing.

9. Start the engine and check for leaks.

20

OIL FILTER MOUNTING BRACKET BREATHER VENT The oil filter mounting bracket contains a breather vent. This vent should be periodically checked to be sure it is open and not blocked by dust or debris. Checking of the breather is recommended at the same time as the oil filters are being replaced.

21

Figure 20 — Centri-Max® Rotor

Centri-Max® Filter Replacement 1. Clean the area around the centrifugal filter before removing the drain hose.

Figure 21 — Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Breather Vent

2. Loosen the hose clamp at the bottom of the filter housing and disconnect the drain hose.

1. Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Breather Vent

3. Loosen the hose clamp at the cylinder block drain and rotate the hose out of the way.

4. Using tool J 24783, remove the centrifugal oil filter housing.

Be sure to apply the filter removal tool on the filter housing at the point marked “WRENCH HERE.”

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MAINTENANCE Fuel System Maintenance Drain the water from the fuel/water separator daily or as required. Primary and secondary fuel filters should be replaced every 150 hours or annually, whichever occurs first (or sooner if plugging is indicated).

If the engine fails to start after installing new fuel filters, refer to Systems Check and Lubrication under Final Preparation and Operational Check.

FUEL PRIMARY FILTER REPLACEMENT (ON HULL FRAMING, TRANSOM OR BULKHEAD)

FUEL SECONDARY FILTER REPLACEMENT (ON ENGINE)

The spin-on type consists of a shell, element and gasket unitized into a single cartridge and a strainer or filter cover which includes a threaded sleeve to accept the spin-on filter cartridge.

Replace the secondary fuel filter at every 150 hours of service.

22

1. Thoroughly wash the area around the fuel filter and mounting adapter mating area with a suitable solvent and blow dry the area with compressed air.

2. With the engine shut down, place a suitable container under the strainer or filter and remove the used fuel filter using filter wrench J 24783. Dispose of the cartridge in an environmentally responsible manner according to state and/or federal (EPA) recommendations.

Install primary fuel filter using the following procedure.

1. Wipe the filter mounting base clean.

2. Apply a film of clean engine oil to the sealing gasket.

3. Fill the new replacement filter cartridge with clean fuel. Coat the seal gasket lightly with clean fuel.

General field practice is to prime the fuel filters before installation. This practice can allow dirt to enter the outlet port of the filter if caution is not used. Use filtered fuel only when priming the filter. Prime through the series of small holes on the top of the filter. DO NOT prime the filter through the center hole.

4. Install the filter and tighten 3/4 to 1 turn after gasket contacts the base.

Figure 22 — Secondary Fuel Filter 1. Secondary Fuel Filter

2. Coolant Conditioner (REF.)

1. Thoroughly wash the area around the fuel filter and mounting adapter mating area with a suitable solvent and blow dry the area with compressed air.

2. With the engine shut down, place a suitable container under the filter and remove the used fuel filter using filter wrench J 24783.

Dispose of the cartridge in an environmentally responsible manner according to state and/or federal (EPA) recommendations.

5. Start the engine and check for leaks.

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MAINTENANCE Install secondary fuel filter using the following procedure.

FUEL LINES AND FLEXIBLE HOSES Pre-Start Inspection

1. Wipe the filter mounting base clean.

2. Apply a film of clean engine oil to the sealing gasket.

3. Fill the filter with clean fuel.

General field practice is to prime the fuel filters before installation. This practice can allow dirt to enter the outlet port of the filter if caution is not used. Use filtered fuel only when priming the filter. Prime through the series of small holes on the top of the filter. DO NOT prime the filter through the center hole.

4. Install the filter and tighten 3/4 to 1 turn after gasket contacts the base.

5. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Use of anything other than genuine MACK filters may cause damage and void the engine warranty. Change filters according to the recommended maintenance schedule.

Check hoses daily as part of the pre-start inspection. Examine hoses for leaks and check all fittings, clamps and ties carefully. Make sure that hoses are not resting on or touching shafts, couplings and heated surfaces including exhaust manifolds, any sharp edges or other obviously hazardous areas. Since all machinery vibrates and moves to a certain extent, clamps and ties can fatigue with age. To ensure continued proper support, inspect fasteners frequently and tighten or replace them as necessary.

Investigate leaks immediately to determine if fittings have loosened or cracked, or if hoses have ruptured or worn through. Take corrective action immediately. Leaks are not only potentially detrimental to machine operation, but they can also result in added expense caused by the need to replace lost fluids.

Personal injury and/or property damage may result from fire due to the leakage of flammable fluids such as fuel or lube oil.

Service Life

If the engine fails to start after installing new fuel filters, refer to Systems Check and Lubrication under Final Preparation and Operational Check.

FUEL INJECTORS Due to the extremely high pressures necessary for the proper atomization for diesel fuel, proper maintenance, servicing and fuel quality should be maintained. At 3,000 hours of operation, the injectors should be inspected for proper opening pressures and spray patterns to ensure the proper combustion of fuel. All fuel injection servicing should be accomplished by a properly certified facility working in conjunction with MackPower™.

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A hose has a finite service life. With this in mind, all hoses should be thoroughly inspected at least every 500 operating hours (1,000 hours for fireresistant fuel and lubricating oil hoses) for indications of twisted, worn, crimped, brittle, cracked or leaking lines. Hoses with their outer cover worn through or damaged metal reinforcement should be considered unfit for further service.

All engine hoses should be replaced during major overhaul and/or after a maximum of 1,000 hours of service. Fire-resistant fuel and lube oil hose assemblies do not require automatic replacement after 1,000 hours or at major overhaul, but should be inspected thoroughly before being put back into service.

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MAINTENANCE HOW TO SELECT FUEL OIL Diesel Fuel Quality and Selection The quality of fuel used is a very important factor in obtaining satisfactory engine performance, long engine life and acceptable exhaust emissions levels. MackPower™ engines are designed to operate on most diesel fuel marketed today. In general, fuels meeting the properties of ASTM Designation D 975 (grade 2–d) have provided satisfactory performance.

Fuel Operating Temperature and Viscosity Since diesel fuel provides cooling of the injection system, the temperature of the fuel may vary considerably due to the ambient temperature, engine operating temperature and the amount of fuel remaining in the tank. As fuel temperature increases, fuel viscosity decreases, along with the lubrication capabilities of the fuel. Maintaining proper fuel temperatures and selecting fuels with the viscosity ranges required will ensure proper injection system functioning.

Fuel Additives MackPower™ engines are designed to operate satisfactorily on a wide range of diesel fuels.

Some fuels may be marketed which contain performance additives and are identified as premium diesel fuel. MackPower™ engines do not require the use of such fuels; however, they may be used at the customer’s discretion.

Fuel Contamination In the marine environment, the most likely fuel contaminants are water and microbial growth (black “slime”). Generally, this type of contamination is the result of poor fuel handling practices. Black “slime” requires water to form and grow, so the best prevention is to keep water content to a minimum in storage tanks.

Treating fuel which has microbial growth requires the use of a fuel additive and is the only exception to the MackPower™ policy on supplemental additives. MackPower™ does recommend the use of fuel additives such as Biobor JF, or equivalent, for treatment of microbial fuel contamination. Follow the manufacturer‘s instructions for use. If treating contaminated fuel, frequent fuel filter changes will be necessary until the fuel system is purged.

MackPower™ does not recommend adding alcohol to fuel used in marine engines.

There are many supplements available today which are intended to be added to the fuel by the customer. These include a variety of independently marketed products which claim to be: r

Cetane Improvers

r

Emission Control Additives

r

Detergents

r

Combustion Improvers

r

Smoke Suppressants

r

Cold Weather Flow Improvers

Supplemental additives are not recommended due to potential injector system or engine damage. Our experience has been that such additives increase operating costs without providing benefit.

The use of supplemental fuel additives does not necessarily void the engine warranty. However, repair expenses which result from fuel system or engine component malfunctions or damage attributed to this will not be covered. These products should be accompanied by performance data supporting their merit. It is not the policy of MackPower™ to test, evaluate, approve or endorse such products.

Diesel Fuel Storage Fuel oil should be clean and free of contamination. Storage tanks and stored fuel should be inspected regularly for dirt, water and sludge and cleaned if contaminated. Diesel fuel tanks can be made of monel, stainless steel, black iron, welded steel or reinforced (nonreactive) plastic.

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MAINTENANCE

Do not use galvanized steel or sheet metal tanks and galvanized pipes or fittings in any diesel fuel storage, delivery or fuel system. The fuel oil will react chemically with the zinc coating forming a compound which can clog filters and cause engine damage.

FUEL AND FUEL TANK Keep the fuel tank filled to reduce condensation.

Refill at the end of each day‘s operation to prevent condensation from contaminating the fuel. Condensation formed in a partially filled tank promotes the growth of microbial organisms that can clog fuel filter and restrict fuel flow. To prevent microbe growth, add a biocide such as “Biobor” or “Racor” to the fuel tank or primary fuel supply. Follow manufacturer‘s usage, handling and safety recommendations.

A 40% to 60% mixture of ethylene or propylene glycol-based antifreeze and distilled or soft water is normally used as a factory fill. Concentrations over 67% are not recommended because of poor heat transfer capability, adverse freeze protection and possible silicate dropout. Concentrations below 30% offer little freeze, boil over or corrosion protection.

Antifreeze solution should be used year-round to provide freeze and boil-over protection as well as a stable environment for seals and hoses.

Do not use the sealer additives in the cooling system. The presence of the gumming and gelling material in stop-leak additives could cause plugging in the cooling passages, which will adversely affect the cooling system.

HOW TO DRAIN AND FLUSH THE COOLING SYSTEM A galvanized steel tank should never be used for fuel storage because the fuel oil reacts chemically with the zinc coating to form powdery flakes which can quickly clog the fuel filter and damage the fuel pump and injectors.

Cooling System Maintenance HOW TO SELECT COOLANT Ethylene glycol or propylene glycol-based antifreezes are both approved for all MackPower™ engines. All ethylene glycol and propylene glycol coolants must be low-silicate antifreezes which meet ASTM4985 test (GM6038M SPEC) criteria. These antifreezes are sometimes referred to as heavy-duty diesel coolants. Passenger car coolants do NOT meet these specifications.

If using a coolant other than specified by MackPower™, it is the responsibility of the customer to determine and perform the proper coolant maintenance procedures.

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Do not remove the pressure control cap from the heat exchanger tank or attempt to drain the coolant until the engine has cooled. Once the engine has cooled, use extreme care when removing the cap. The sudden release of pressure from a heated cooling system can result in a loss of coolant and possible personal injury (scalding) from the hot liquid.

1. With the engine cool, drain the previous solution from the engine and heat exchanger tank. Dispose of the solution in an environmentally responsible manner according to state and/or federal (EPA) recommendations.

2. Refill the cooling system with clean, soft water and a good radiator cleaning compound. If the engine is warm, fill slowly to prevent the rapid cooling and distortion of the metal castings.

3. Start the engine and operate it for 15 minutes to circulate the solution thoroughly. Add water as required to maintain the level at the bottom of the heat exchanger filler neck.

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MAINTENANCE 4. Stop the engine and allow it to cool.

5. With the engine cool, drain the cooling system completely.

6. Refill the cooling system with clean, soft water and operate it for 15 minutes. Add water as required to maintain the level at the bottom of the heat exchanger filler neck.

In addition to the cleaning procedure, other components of the cooling system should be checked periodically to keep the engine operating at peak efficiency: COOLANT CHANGE INTERVAL

8. With the engine cool, drain the cleaner residue from the cooling system.

MackPower™ recommends replacing coolant with permanent-type antifreeze annually.

However, a cooling system properly maintained and protected with supplemental corrosion inhibitors can be operated up to these intervals:

9. Refill the system with the proper mix of antifreeze and clean, soft water.

Pleasure Craft — 1,000 hours or one year, whichever comes first.

10. Entrapped air must be purged after the cooling system is filled. To do this, allow the engine to warm up without the pressure cap installed. With the marine gear in neutral, increase engine rpm above 1000 rpm and add coolant as required. Vent the petcock on the water return line at the water-jacket turbocharger until coolant (no air) comes out. Install the pressure cap after the coolant level has stabilized at the bottom of the heat exchanger tank filler neck. Refill the recovery bottle as needed if coolant is drawn into the engine while purging the air.

Commercial Craft — 4,000 hours or two years, whichever comes first.

7. Stop the engine and allow it to cool.

If all the coolant is drawn out of the recovery bottle when the engine cools, remove the pressure cap from the heat exchanger and check to make sure the coolant level is at the bottom of the filler neck. Add coolant as required, replace the pressure cap and fill the recovery bottle to the “Full Cold” level.

Failure to properly fill the cooling system and purge it of air can result in engine overheating and serious engine damage.

Do not overfill the recovery bottle since this can result in spillage as the coolant expands during engine operation.

At these intervals, the coolant must be drained and the cooling system cleaned thoroughly. The cooling system should then be replenished with an ethylene glycol-base antifreeze/water solution in the required concentration.

A 40% to 60% mixture of ethylene or propylene glycol-based antifreeze and distilled or soft water is required regardless of application, geographic location or ambient temperature.

Cooling System Hoses Cooling system hoses should be inspected and any hose that shows obvious signs of damage or feels abnormally soft or hard should be replaced.

All external leaks should be corrected as soon as detected.

All cooling system hoses should be inspected at least every 500 hours for signs of deterioration, damage or abnormally soft or hard areas. Any signs of hose deterioration require replacement of the hose. Replace all cooling system hoses in pleasure craft marine applications after 1,000 hours of service, regardless of apparent condition. In commercial marine applications, coolant hose assemblies do not require automatic replacement after 1,000 hours, but should be replaced at major service intervals.

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MAINTENANCE Raw Water Cooling System Drain at the end of each boating season.

If the cooling system is protected by a coolant filter/conditioner, the element should be replaced every 150 hours or annually, whichever comes first.

Sea Strainers Inspect sea strainers daily. Clean sea strainers at least annually. Clean more often if surface seaweed growth or water contamination levels are fairly high.

COOLANT CONDITIONER CHANGE 23

When changing the coolant conditioner, shut the engine OFF. Keep the engine stop control in the OFF position. To avoid injury when removing the heat exchanger cap, turn the cap counterclockwise to the first stop. DO NOT depress the heat exchanger cap until the pressure has dissipated. After all pressure has completely dissipated, press the cap downward and continue turning to remove.

To install a new coolant conditioner: 1. Relieve cooling system pressure by removing the heat exchanger cap.

2. Using tool J 29927, or equivalent, remove the coolant conditioner.

3. Clean the coolant conditioner mounting surface.

Figure 23 — Coolant Conditioner

Coolant Filter/Conditioners are used in the M-E7 marine engines to filter impurities such as scale or sand from the coolant. Filter elements are treated with chemicals that soften coolant water, minimize scale deposits, maintain an acid-free environment and act as a rust preventive.

Coolant filter/conditioner elements should be replaced every 150 hours or annually, preferably at the beginning of the boating season.

Correct coolant conditioning must be maintained to provide maximum engine block and cylinder sleeve protection. On wet sleeve engines, a minimum nitrite level of 1200 ppm and a minimum pH of 8.5 is required. Changing the coolant conditioner at the specified 150-hour intervals ensures that the proper level of protection is maintained in the cooling system. Coolant conditioners contain a reduced solids chemical inhibitor package that allows coolant conditioner change intervals to coincide with the recommended oil change intervals.

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4. Apply a light film of engine oil to the sealing gasket of the replacement coolant conditioner.

5. Install the new coolant conditioner until the gasket contacts the base and then tighten an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

6. Reinstall the heat exchanger cap. Start the engine and check for leaks.

7. Replenish the cooling system with the proper mixture of coolant as necessary.

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MAINTENANCE AFTERCOOLER MAINTENANCE

24

Cleaning Aftercooler Internal Components To clean the internal components of the aftercooler, the side covers, as well as both top and bottom covers, must be removed to allow access to the fins of the aftercooler. Cleaning of both the raw water and air sides of the aftercooler is recommended seasonally before the vessel is stored for the winter or if a cooling deficiency dictates cleaning is required.

Figure 24 — Removing Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®)

REMOVING AFTERCOOLER FROM ENGINE 1. Close the engine sea water seacock.

1. Hose Clamp

2. Drain sea water from the raw water cooling system by separating the outlet hose at the raw water pump.

The entire raw water cooling system will drain back through the removed raw water outlet hose.

This system contains many gallons of water. Be prepared to catch the water in buckets or allow the bilge pump to pump it out of the hull.

2. Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Hose Connection

5. Remove the aftercooler from the engine by first separating the air inlet tube hose clamps at the turbocharger compressor. Loosen the turbocharger compressor clamp and rotate the compressor up to allow the removal of the air inlet tube.

25

3. Loosen the hose clamp attaching the aftercooler water discharge tube to the aftercooler. When the aftercooler is removed, it will pull out of the tube.

4. Remove the blow-by recirculation unit (AIRSEP®) from the rear of the engine by removing the support bracket fasteners and separating the oil drain back hose. Then loosen the spring-type hose clamp that connects the blow-by recirculation unit (AIRSEP®) to the turbocharger compressor.

Figure 25 — Removing Aftercooler Inlet Air Tube 1. Turbocharger Compressor Clamp 2. Turbocharger Compressor to Aftercooler Inlet Tube Hose Clamps

3. Inlet Tube to Aftercooler Hose Clamps

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MAINTENANCE 6. Remove the aftercooler air outlet tube by loosening the hose clamps at the outlet from the aftercooler and at the intake manifold.

Remove tube by pulling up at the intake manifold, then away from the aftercooler.

8. Remove the aftercooler bracket to flywheel housing bolts and remove the aftercooler.

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26

Figure 28 — Removing Aftercooler

Figure 26 — Removing Aftercooler Outlet Tube

AFTERCOOLER CLEANING (AIR SIDE) 1. Remove the capscrews securing the aftercooler top outlet cover and the bottom inlet cover. Remove the upper and lower brackets. Aftercooler covers can now be separated from the aftercooler body by tapping with a brass or dead blow hammer to overcome the adhesive qualities of the gasket.

7. Continue removing the aftercooler by loosening and removing the bolt that attaches the top cover bracket to the cylinder head bolt.

27

29

Figure 27 — Removing Aftercooler Bracket

Figure 29 — Aftercooler Covers 1. Sea Water Side Inlet Cover 2. Top Outlet Cover

3. Bottom Inlet Cover 4. Sea Water Side Outlet Cover

2. Scrape off any old gasket material from the aftercooler body.

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MAINTENANCE 3. Place the aftercooler body on newspapers and spray the now-exposed heat transfer fins using spray cans of carburetor cleaner (suitable for aluminum). Saturate the cooler until all oil and carbon is loose. Follow-up by steam cleaning the carburetor cleaner saturated fins until all loose contaminants have been removed. If necessary, continue spraying with carburetor cleaner and steam cleaning until cooler fins are clean.

AFTERCOOLER CLEANING (SEA WATER SIDE) 1. Remove the capscrews securing the aftercooler top outlet cover and the bottom inlet cover. Remove the upper and lower brackets. Aftercooler covers can now be separated from the aftercooler body by tapping with a brass or dead blow hammer to overcome the adhesive qualities of the gasket.

31

Follow directions on carburetor cleaner can.

Use only in a well-ventilated area. Dispose of carburetor cleaner waste properly.

A pressure washer may be used instead of a steam cleaner, but care must be used to avoid damage to the aftercooler fins.

4. The now-clean aftercooler fins must be blow dried with compressed air and then allowed to air dry in front of a fan for one hour.

5. Using new gaskets, install the bottom inlet cover and the top outlet cover. Insert and tighten the cover capscrews to specifications along with the top cover bracket and lower support bracket. Proceed to “INSTALLING AFTERCOOLER ONTO ENGINE” on page 60.

30

Figure 31 — Aftercooler Covers 1. Sea Water Side Inlet Cover 2. Top Outlet Cover

3. Bottom Inlet Cover 4. Sea Water Side Outlet Cover

2. Remove the capscrews securing the aftercooler inlet and outlet sea water side covers. Aftercooler side covers can now be separated from the aftercooler body by tapping with a brass or dead blow hammer to overcome the adhesive qualities of the gasket.

3. Remove any visible debris (grass, sea weed, impeller pieces, etc.) and scrape off any old gasket material from the edge of the aftercooler body.

4. Using a wire brush, remove salt from the end plates.

Figure 30 — Aftercooler Covers 1. Sea Water Side Inlet Cover 2. Top Outlet Cover

3. Bottom Inlet Cover 4. Sea Water Side Outlet Cover

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MAINTENANCE 5. Clean (rod out) the inside of the tubes of the aftercooler using a gun (firearm) cleaning kit or bore brush. A .22 caliber rod with enough extensions to push completely through the tubes works well. Do not try to reverse direction of the rod as the brush is too large to be reversed in the tube. A pellet gun brush (.18/.19 caliber) should also work.

Push the brush through each tube and blow out with compressed air.

INSTALLING AFTERCOOLER ONTO ENGINE 1. Position the aftercooler on the top of the flywheel housing, being careful to guide the water discharge fitting into the water discharge tube. Install the two aftercooler support bolts and tighten to specifications.

Tighten the water discharge tube hose clamp per specification.

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6. Reassemble the side sea water covers using new gaskets and tighten all fasteners to specification. The new gaskets are oversize and will require trimming (after assembly) to match the top and bottom surfaces. A single-edge razor-type window paint scraper works best.

7. Apply Loctite® 271 to the three bolts on the top and the three bolts on the bottom of the sea water covers that protrude into the fin area. The Loctite® will seal air from leaking out of the bolt threads.

8. Using new gaskets, install the bottom inlet cover and the top outlet cover. Insert and tighten the cover capscrews to specifications along with the top cover bracket.

Figure 33 — Installing Aftercooler

2. Continue installing the aftercooler by inserting the top cover bracket onto the cylinder head bolt capscrew. Tighten capscrew to specifications.

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34

Figure 32 — Aftercooler Covers 1. Sea Water Side Inlet Cover 2. Top Outlet Cover

Page 60

3. Bottom Inlet Cover 4. Sea Water Side Outlet Cover

Figure 34 — Installing Aftercooler Bracket

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MAINTENANCE 3. Position the air inlet tube, hoses and spring clamps between the aftercooler and the turbocharger compressor outlet. Correctly position the turbocharger compressor and tighten the compressor retaining clamp in this position. Position the four inlet tube hose spring clamps on the aftercooler and the turbocharger ends of the tube as shown in Figure 35. Tighten the hose clamps to specification.

36

35

Figure 36 — Installing Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) 1. Hose Clamp

2. Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Hose Connection

5. Attach the blow-by recirculation unit (AIRSEP®) to the lower support bracket by installing the retaining bolt and tightening to specification. Reconnect the oil drain back hose and clamp.

Figure 35 — Installing Aftercooler Inlet Air Tube 37

1. Turbocharger Compressor Clamp 2. Turbocharger Compressor to Aftercooler Inlet Tube Hose Clamps

3. Inlet Tube to Aftercooler Hose Clamps

4. Install the blow-by recirculation unit (AIRSEP®) onto the rear of the engine by connecting the hose to the turbocharger compressor inlet. Place hose clamp in position and tighten to specifications.

Figure 37 — Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) 1. Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Support Bracket Fastener

2. Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Bracket 3. Oil Drain Back Hose

6. Reattach the aftercooler air outlet tube by sliding the hose section onto the aftercooler fitting, then sliding the other end over the intake manifold fitting. Tighten hose clamps to specification.

7. Reconnect the outlet hose at the raw water pump and tighten clamp to specification.

8. Open the engine sea water seacock.

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MAINTENANCE RAW WATER PUMP

38

Raw Water Pump Maintenance The raw water pump does not require any routine maintenance. It is lubricated by engine oil in a metered amount from the end of the auxiliary shaft. However, seasonally, it is a good practice to remove the pump end cover and replace the flexible impeller at the end of the boating season.

The end cover of the water pump also needs to be removed to allow any remaining trapped water to be removed before the vessel is stored for winter. The raw water pump body or liner should also be checked for cracks or wear and replaced, if necessary.

A raw water pump seal malfunction is indicated by leakage of water from the openings in the pump housing. These openings, located between the pump mounting flange and the inlet and outlet ports, must remain open at all times. Leaky seals require replacement. Authorized MackPower™ service outlets are properly equipped to perform these services.

RAW WATER PUMP IMPELLER REPLACEMENT 1. Close the engine sea water seacock.

2. Drain sea water from the raw water cooling system by separating the outlet hose at the raw water pump.

Figure 38 — Raw Water Pump Cover 1. Six Raw Water Pump Capscrews

2. Raw Water Pump Cover and Gasket

Refer to Figure 39.

4. Remove the impeller outer wearplate.

5. Inspect the impeller area and remove any grass, sea weed, impeller pieces, etc., which are present. Also allow any remaining sea water to drain.

6. Grasp hub of impeller (7) with pliers and remove the impeller from bore. If impeller O-ring remains on shaft, remove it from shaft.

7. Remove cam/liner (3) from the pump body.

8. Remove inner wearplate (9).

The entire raw water cooling system will drain back through the removed raw water outlet hose.

This system contains many gallons of water. Be prepared to catch the water in buckets or allow the bilge pump to pump it out of the hull.

3. Remove the six special brass impeller cover capscrews and remove the end cover by prying off with a gasket scraper. Care should be exercised to avoid scratching or bending the end cover.

9. Remove the seal retaining ring (8), taking care not to scratch shaft. Remove carbon portion of seal with tensioning spring attached.

10. Remove bolts securing port adapters to ports. Remove four 5/16″ bolts (11) and lock washers (10) holding the pump body to the bearing housing.

11. Remove pump body (2) from bearing housing and shaft sub-assembly. Remove any remaining gasket material from port adapters.

12. Remove slinger O-ring (1) from shaft.

13. From drive end of pump body, press out remaining portions of seal.

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MAINTENANCE 14. Clean and inspect all parts for wear. If wearplates are worn, they should be reversed or replaced. If cam/liner thickness is 3/8″ or less at its thickest section, it should be replaced.

39

Figure 39 — Raw Water Pump Components 1. Slinger O-Ring 2. Pump Body 3. Cam/Liner 4. End Cover Screw 1/4 – 20 x 1/2″ 5. End Cover 6. End Cover Gasket

7. Impeller 8. Seal Retaining Ring 9. Wearplate 10. Lock Washer 11. Screw, 5/16 x 1/2″

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MAINTENANCE 15. Install slinger O-ring (1) on shaft near bearing housing.

16. Lubricate ceramic seal seat boot with WATER ONLY and press into seal bore of pump body. Exposed ceramic surface should face toward impeller bore.

It is extremely important that the seal components do not become soiled during assembly.

17. Slide pump body (with seal seat installed) over shaft, taking care not to dislodge seal seat as body is moved toward (and aligned with) bearing housing. Attach pump body to bearing housing with four 5/16″ bolts and lock washers.

18. Install carbon portion of seal with tensioning spring and spring washer over shaft and locate in seal bore with carbon face against ceramic seal seat. Slide seal retaining ring over shaft against seal thrust ring and locate in retaining ring groove.

19. Install inner wearplate (9) in pump body aligning notch in wearplate with pin in body.

20. Lubricate body with a film of water pump grease and aligning hole in top of cam/liner (3) with pin in pump body (2). Push into body until it is recessed about 1/8″ from end cover surface.

21. Liberally grease the inside of cam/liner with water pump grease.

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22. Install impeller O-ring in groove in impeller insert. Inserting end of impeller (7) with O-ring first, rotate impeller in direction of pump rotation to bend blades under cam and push into bore until impeller insert flats align with shaft flats. Then push impeller all the way into impeller bore. End of impeller should be approximately even with cam/ liner. Install rubber spline plug into end of impeller.

23. Install outer wearplate ensuring that notch in wearplate aligns with hole in top of cam/liner.

24. Place a new end cover gasket (6) over pin in end cover. Install end cover (5), aligning pin with hole in cam/liner.

25. Insert the six special end cover brass capscrews (4). Tighten the capscrews to specifications.

26. Reconnect the outlet hose at the raw water pump and tighten hose clamp to specification.

27. Open the engine sea water seacock.

Pump will self-prime at low or high speeds. Be sure suction lines are airtight or pump will not self-prime.

Impeller depends on liquid pumped for lubrication. DO NOT RUN DRY for more than 30 seconds. Lack of liquid will burn the impeller.

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MAINTENANCE GEAR OIL COOLER

40

General Information To clean the internal components of the gear oil cooler, the cooler must be removed from the engine. Cleaning of the gear oil cooler is recommended seasonally before the vessel is stored for the winter or if a cooling deficiency dictates cleaning is required. The gear oil cooler should be replaced every 4,000 hours or 4 years, whichever occurs first.

CLEANING GEAR OIL COOLER INTERNAL COMPONENTS 1. Close the engine sea water seacock.

2. Drain sea water from the raw water cooling system by separating the outlet hose at the raw water pump.

The entire raw water cooling system will drain back through the removed raw water outlet hose.

This system contains many gallons of water. Be prepared to catch the water in buckets or allow the bilge pump to pump it out of the hull.

3. Loosen the two closest hose spring clamps to the oil cooler and separate the cooler from the hose which attaches to the heat exchanger and the hose that attaches to the aftercooler tube.

4. Drain the transmission oil cooling lines back to the oil tank and disconnect both the inlet and outlet cooling hoses. Mark the lines for easy reinstallation. Cap lines and cooler fittings to avoid contaminating gear oil.

5. Loosen and remove the clamp which attaches the gear oil cooler to the inlet manifold bracket and remove the oil cooler from the engine.

Figure 40 — Removing Gear Oil Cooler

6. Circulate a cleaning solvent such as Powercool 2001 On-Line-Cleaner, or equivalent, through the tubes. Drain the cleaner.

7. Clean (rod out) the inside of the tubes of the gear oil cooler using a gun (firearm) cleaning kit or a bore brush. Use a .22 caliber rod with enough extensions to push the tool completely through the tubes. Do not try to reverse direction of the rod as the brush is too large to be reversed in the tube. A pellet gun brush (.18/.19 caliber) should also work.

Push the brush through each tube and blow out with compressed air. Only about half of the tubes can be reached for rodding.

8. Position the gear oil cooler on the inlet manifold bracket and install the clamp which attaches the gear oil cooler to the inlet manifold bracket. Tighten to specification.

9. Reattach the transmission oil cooling lines onto the gear oil cooler and tighten line connections to specification.

10. Reattach the gear oil cooler to the hose that attaches to the heat exchanger and the hose that attaches to the aftercooler tube.

Position and tighten the hose to specification.

11. Reattach the outlet hose at the raw water pump and position and tighten the clamp to specifications.

12. Open the engine sea water seacock.

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MAINTENANCE HEAT EXCHANGER MAINTENANCE

3. Carefully remove the end caps from the cooler. Catch the remaining raw water in a container and discard.

General Information

4. Inspect the cooler outer shell for signs of damage or leaks. A cooler showing obvious signs of damage should not be reused.

The MackPower™ M-E7 engine uses a tube and shell style engine heat exchanger (cooler). The cooler is mounted with connector hoses and clamps between the outlet of the gear cooler discharge raw water pipe and the engine raw water discharge pipe. The engine heat exchanger has removable end caps. The cooler end caps should be removed to allow inspection of the exchanger for damage and plugging of the raw water passages at least once a year. The cooler should be replaced if severe plugging or damage is indicated.

Failure to periodically inspect the cooler for plugging or damage may lead to restricted coolant flow which could result in poor engine performance or engine failure.

CLEANING HEAT EXCHANGER INTERNAL COMPONENTS 1. Close the engine sea water seacock.

2. With the engine at ambient temperature, drain sea water from the raw water cooling system by separating the outlet hose at the raw water pump.

The entire raw water cooling system will drain back through the removed raw water outlet hose.

This system contains many gallons of water. Be prepared to catch the water in buckets or allow the bilge pump to pump it out of the hull.

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5. If there are no signs of damage, inspect the cooler tubes for plugging. If tubes are not plugged, replace the end caps with new gaskets and properly tighten. If tubes are plugged, proceed with step 5.

Procedure in step 5 assumes there is adequate room in the boat to clean the unit in place. If this is not possible, remove the unit. Removal instructions are in the following section, Heat Exchanger Removal for Cleaning.

6. Replace the end caps on the unit. Remove the raw water inlet and outlet hose connections to the cooler. Circulate a cleaning solvent such as Powercool 2001 On-Line-Cleaner, or equivalent, through the tubes. Drain the cleaner and remove the end caps.

7. Clean (rod out) the inside of the tubes of the heat exchanger using a gun (firearm) cleaning kit or a bore brush. Use a .22 caliber rod with enough extensions to push the rod completely through the tubes. Do not try to reverse direction of the rod as the brush is too large to be reversed in the tube.

A pellet gun brush (.18/.19 caliber) should also work. Push the brush through each tube and flush out any loosened material with clean, fresh water.

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MAINTENANCE 11. Reattach the outlet hose at the raw water pump and position and tighten the clamp to specifications.

41

12. Open the engine sea water seacock.

13. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Pump will self-prime at low or high speeds. Be sure suction lines are airtight or pump will not self-prime.

Impeller depends on liquid pumped for lubrication. DO NOT RUN DRY for more than 30 seconds. Lack of liquid will burn the impeller.

HEAT EXCHANGER REMOVAL FOR CLEANING 1. Close the engine sea water seacock.

Figure 41 — Heat Exchanger Tubes 1. Heat Exchanger Flow Through Tubes

8. Drain water from cooler tubes and blow dry with compressed air.

To avoid possible injury when using compressed air, wear required safety equipment (face plate or safety glasses) and do not exceed 40 psi (276 kpa) air pressure.

9. Reinstall end caps with new gaskets and properly tighten.

10. Reattach the heat exchanger raw water connections, being sure to fully slide the hoses on the heat exchanger nipples.

Tighten hose clamps to specification.

2. Drain the raw water side of the system as previously outlined. Loosen the hose spring clamps and separate the hose which attaches the heat exchanger to the gear oil cooler outlet. Then loosen the hose spring clamps and separate the hose which attaches the heat exchanger outlet to the raw water exit pipe (mixer).

3. Loosen the engine coolant drain cock on the heat exchanger to engine oil cooler inlet tube. Catch engine coolant in an approved container and save for reuse. Drain coolant to level below heat exchanger.

Loosening and removing the heat exchanger fill cap will allow the coolant to drain from the cooler inlet tube much faster as this allows the heat exchanger to vent.

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MAINTENANCE 5. Remove the heat exchanger unit from the front engine bracket and place on a clean work surface.

42

44

Figure 42 — Coolant Inlet Tube 1. Heat Exchanger to Oil Cooler Inlet Tube

2. Inlet Tube Coolant Drain Cock Figure 44 — Removing Heat Exchanger

4. Loosen and remove the clamp which attaches the heat exchanger to the engine oil cooler inlet tube and separate the hose from the tube. Loosen the hose spring clamps and separate the hose which attaches the heat exchanger to the thermostat housing. Also loosen the two clamps that secure the heat exchanger to the front mounting bracket.

1. Thermostat Housing-toHeat Exchanger Hose

2. Gear Oil Cooler-to-Heat Exchanger Hose

6. Remove the center bolt from both ends of the heat exchanger and remove the covers.

Catch remaining raw water in a container and discard.

45

43

Figure 45 — Heat Exchanger End Cover Figure 43 — Heat Exchanger 1. Heat Exchanger to Bracket Retaining Clamp

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2. Heat Exchanger to Engine Oil Cooler Inlet Tube

1. Heat Exchanger End Cover Rubber Seal

2. Heat Exchanger End Cover Bolt

7. Inspect the cooler outer shell for signs of damage or leaks. A cooler showing obvious signs of damage should not be reused.

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MAINTENANCE 8. If there are no signs of damage, inspect the cooler tubes for plugging. If tubes are not plugged, replace the end caps with new gaskets and properly tighten. Reassemble heat exchanger to engine following the installation instructions. If plugged, proceed with step 8.

9. Replace the end caps on the unit. Circulate a cleaning solvent such as Powercool 2001 On-Line-Cleaner, or equivalent, through the raw water tubes. Drain the cleaner and remove the end caps.

10. Clean (rod out) the inside of the tubes of the heat exchanger using a gun (firearm) cleaning kit or a bore brush. Use a .22 caliber rod with enough extensions to push completely through the tubes. Do not try to reverse direction of the rod as the brush is too large to be reversed in the tube.

A pellet gun brush (.18/.19 caliber) should also work. Push the brush through each tube and flush out any loosened material with clean, fresh water.

11. Drain water from cooler tubes and blow dry with compressed air.

To avoid possible injury when using compressed air, wear required safety equipment (face plate or safety glasses) and do not exceed 40 psi (276 kpa) air pressure.

HEAT EXCHANGER INSTALLATION AFTER CLEANING 1. Install the heat exchanger end covers with new rubber seals and tighten the center bolt to specification.

2. Install the heat exchanger unit onto the front engine bracket. Position and attach the hoses which connect the heat exchanger to the engine oil cooler inlet tube and the engine thermostat housing. Install the spring-type hose clamps to the tubes.

Tighten the spring clamps to specification.

Also install the two clamps that secure the heat exchanger to the front mounting bracket and tighten to specification. Make sure rubber isolators are in place.

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47

Figure 47 — Heat Exchanger 1. Heat Exchanger to Bracket Retaining Clamp

2. Heat Exchanger to Engine Oil Cooler Inlet Tube

Figure 46 — Heat Exchanger Tubes 1. Heat Exchanger Flow Through Tubes

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MAINTENANCE 3. Reattach the hose which connects the heat exchanger to the gear oil cooler outlet and install the hose spring clamp. Tighten to specification.

ZINC REPLACEMENT

4. Reattach the hose which connects the heat exchanger outlet to the raw water exit pipe (mixer) and install the hose spring clamp.

Tighten the spring clamp to specification.

The four zincs in the raw water cooling system provide an anodic reaction with the sea water.

This reaction provides electrochemical corrosion protection in which the zinc metal dissolves in the sea water to form positively charged ions. These ions protect the metal of the raw water system cooling components in much the same way the coolant conditioner protects the internal cooling components of the engine. The zincs should be checked initially every 60 days, then as required or annually. Zincs should be replaced when they reach 50% of original size. If zincs are not replaced, clean surface with a wire brush to restore good operation.

5. Reattach the outlet hose at the raw water pump and position and tighten the clamp to specifications.

6. Open the engine sea water seacock.

Pump will self-prime at low or high speeds. Be sure suction lines are airtight or pump will not self-prime.

Impeller depends on liquid pumped for lubrication. DO NOT RUN DRY for more than 30 seconds. Lack of liquid will burn the impeller.

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General Information

The zincs are located in three main components: r

Gear Oil Cooler (Contains One Zinc)

r

Heat Exchanger (Contains One Zinc)

r

Aftercooler (Contains Two Zincs)

Checking of the heat exchanger is recommended seasonally before the vessel is stored for the winter or at least once per year for vessels used year-round.

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MAINTENANCE ZINC REPLACEMENT PROCEDURES

49

1. Close the engine sea water seacocks.

2. Drain sea water from the raw water cooling system by separating the outlet hose at the raw water pump.

The entire raw water cooling system will drain back through the removed raw water outlet hose.

This system contains many gallons of water. Be prepared to catch the water in buckets or allow the bilge pump to pump it out of the hull.

3. Loosen the hex head and remove the zinc located in the right side of the heat exchanger. Inspect zinc and replace or reuse depending on wear. Coat a couple of threads with Loctite® 277 or equivalent/ Teflon® thread sealer and reinstall in heat exchanger. Torque to specifications. Do not coat all engaged threads as electrical conductivity from zinc button to engine component is required. After installation, check conductivity from zinc plug to engine component with a continuity tester.

48

Figure 48 — Heat Exchanger Zinc Location

Figure 49 — Gear Oil Cooler Zinc Location 1. Gear Oil Cooler Zinc Location

5. Loosen the hex heads and remove the zincs located in the rear of the aftercooler. Inspect zinc and replace or reuse depending on wear. Coat threads with Loctite® 277 or equivalent/Teflon® thread sealer and reinstall in the aftercooler. Torque to specifications. Follow conductivity precaution in step 3.

50

Figure 50 — Aftercooler Zinc Locations

1. Heat Exchanger Zinc Location

1. Aftercooler Zinc Locations

4. Loosen the hex head and remove the zinc located in the gear oil cooler. Inspect zinc and replace or reuse depending on wear.

Coat threads with Loctite® 277 or equivalent/ Teflon® thread sealer and reinstall in gear oil cooler. Torque to specifications. Follow conductivity precaution in step 3.

6. Reattach the outlet hose at the raw water pump and position and tighten the clamp to specifications.

7. Open the engine sea water seacock.

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MAINTENANCE BATTERY/CHARGING SYSTEM MAINTENANCE BATTERY

To avoid possible personal injury and/or engine damage from accidental engine startup, always disconnect the battery before servicing the electrical system. To avoid alternator damage when removing battery connections, disconnect the negative (−) terminal first. Reconnect the negative terminal last.

Check the hydrometer “eye” of maintenance-free batteries for charge. If lead-acid or low maintenance batteries are used, check the specific gravity of each cell every 150 hours.

Check more frequently in warm weather due to the more rapid loss of water through evaporation.

Maintain the electrolyte level according to the battery manufacturer’s recommendations, but do not overfill. Overfilling can cause poor performance or early failure.

Battery electrolyte is a solution of sulfuric acid.

Avoid contact with clothing, skin and eyes.

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Keep the terminal side of the battery clean. When necessary, wash with a solution of baking soda and water. Rinse with fresh water. Do not allow the soda solution to enter the cells.

Inspect the cables, clamps and hold-down brackets regularly. Clean and reapply a light coating of petroleum jelly when needed. Have corroded or damaged parts replaced.

If the engine is to be out of service for more than 30 days, remove batteries and store in a cool dry place. Keep batteries fully charged, if possible.

Replace any battery that fails to hold a charge.

When batteries are being charged and tested, an explosive gas forms inside the battery. Some of this gas escapes through the holes in the vent plugs or vents in the battery cover and may form an explosive atmosphere around the battery itself if ventilation is poor. Sparks or flames can ignite this gas, causing an explosion which can shatter the battery. Flying pieces of the battery structure and a splash of the electrolyte can cause personal injury.

Reversing battery polarity can also result in personal injury caused by the sudden discharge of electrolyte from the battery vents and/or sudden rupture of the battery case caused by explosion of internal hydrogen gas.

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MAINTENANCE BATTERY CHARGING ALTERNATOR Terminals should be checked for corrosion and loose connections and wiring inspected for damaged or frayed insulation every 150 hours.

Have wiring repaired or replaced, as required.

Precautions must be taken when working on or around the alternator. The diodes and transistors in the alternator circuit are very sensitive and can be easily destroyed.

1. Avoid grounding the output terminal.

Grounding an alternator’s output wire or terminal (which is always hot, regardless of whether or not the engine is running) and accidentally reversing the battery polarity will result in equipment damage.

3. Never disconnect the battery while the alternator is operating. Disconnecting the battery can result in damage to the alternator diodes. In marine applications which have two sets of batteries, switching from one set to the other while the engine is running will momentarily disconnect the batteries. This can result in equipment damage.

4. If a booster battery is to be used, batteries must be connected correctly (negative to negative, positive to positive) to avoid equipment damage.

5. Never use a fast charger with the batteries connected or as a booster for battery output.

2. Do not reverse battery connections. This can also cause damage.

Reversing battery polarity can also result in personal injury caused by the sudden discharge of electrolyte from the battery vents and/or the sudden rupture of the battery case caused by explosion of internal hydrogen gas.

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NOTES

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS ENGINE REMOVAL

Removal Procedure

Details of the engine removal procedure vary from one vessel to another. This section provides general guidelines for removing the engine from the vessel.

1. Place a suitable container beneath the engine and drain engine coolant. Open the coolant drain petcocks in the block, exhaust manifold and water pump.

51

Before beginning engine removal, make sure all equipment is available for use and has been inspected for safety.

Vessel Preparation

It is good practice to steam clean the engine to remove grime, grease and oil before starting work. Steam cleaning the engine and engine area allows more detailed inspection and improved workmanship.

Care must be used to keep moisture from entering the air intake system. If moisture does enter the system, make sure it is removed (dried out) before the engine is reinstalled.

Figure 51 — Coolant Drain Cocks 1. Exhaust Manifold Coolant Drain Cock

2. Engine Block Coolant Jacket Drain Cock

52

1. Close the engine sea water seacock.

2. Secure the vessel in an area with ample work space in and around the vessel.

Ensure that a suitable lifting device is available. Lifting device must be capable of safely lifting 3,000 lbs. (1361 kg).

3. Observe all safety precautions.

4. Disconnect the battery negative (ground) cable.

Figure 52 — Inlet Tube Coolant Drain 1. Heat Exchanger to Oil Cooler Inlet Tube

Page 76

2. Inlet Tube Drain Cock

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 6. Remove all coolant tubes, ground straps, vent lines, fuel lines, transmission oil cooler hoses, throttle linkage and electrical wiring harnesses that are attached to the engine and would prevent its removal.

53

7. Disconnect any electrical cables or wires still connected to the starter and starter magnetic relay.

8. Remove the retaining bolts that secure the transmission bell housing to the flywheel housing.

Figure 53 — Water Pump Coolant Drain 1. Coolant Water Pump

2. Water Pump Drain Cock

2. Using the drain hose attached to drain plug area of the engine oil pan, pump the oil out of the oil pan and into a suitable waste container 3. Remove the clamps that retain the coolant overflow tank. Remove tank.

4. Disconnect the pipe connecting the exhaust pipe/mixer with the hull of the vessel. The exhaust pipe/mixer connection at the turbocharger may be removed with engine or separated at this time depending on vessel application.

5. Disconnect the raw water inlet hose to the raw water pump.

9. Obtain the appropriate lifting equipment (bar or chain) and attach to the proper lift points on the engine.

10. Position and attach the engine hoist to the lift bar or chain and place tension on the bar or chain by operating the hoist.

11. Remove torque converter access panel and remove capscrews that secure the transmission flywheel adapter to the engine flywheel. Support the forward portion of the transmission.

12. Remove the retaining bolts that secure the engine mounts to the engine or hull.

13. Obtain assistance for removal of the engine.

Remove engine while watching for obstructions that interfere with its removal such as engine or hull components, brackets, clamps or other parts still attached to the engine.

14. Refer to “Mounting Engine in Stand” on page 81 for procedures for mounting the engine on an engine stand.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS ENGINE DISASSEMBLY

2. Disconnect the electrical connection from the engine harness.

General

3. Remove the four nuts connecting the shutdown solenoid assembly to its retaining bracket.

This section includes step-by-step procedures for complete disassembly of the MackPower™ M-E7 marine engine after removal from the vessel.

Major components are removed as assemblies and then overhauled later.

55

Failure to follow the sequence of operations listed below may result in damage to components or personal injury.

Injection Pump Shutdown Solenoid Removal To remove the injection pump shutdown solenoid: 1. Loosen and remove the nut attaching the solenoid ball stud to the injection pump lever.

Figure 55 — Removing Shutdown Solenoid

Starter Motor Removal

54

To remove the starter motor: 1. Disconnect the electrical wire and cable connections between the starter magnetic relay and the starter motor.

2. Remove the bolts securing the starter motor to the flywheel housing.

3. Remove the starter motor from the flywheel housing.

56

Figure 54 — Injection Pump Shutdown Solenoid

Figure 56 — Starter Motor

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Starter Magnetic Relay Removal

4. Remove the capscrews retaining the starter magnetic relay bracket to the cylinder block, and then, remove the starter magnetic relay and bracket.

To remove the starter magnetic relay: 1. If not already done, disconnect the key switch harness wire at the starter magnetic relay.

58

2. Remove the nut and washer securing the positive battery cable to the starter magnetic relay.

3. Loosen the nuts and screws securing the starter magnetic relay to the relay bracket.

Loosening the nuts and screws with the relay bracket still attached to the engine block, makes it easier to remove the nuts, screws and relay at the bench, if replacement of the relay becomes necessary.

57

Figure 58 — Removing Starter Magnetic Relay Bracket Capscrews

If it becomes necessary to replace the starter magnetic relay, remove the nuts and screws securing the relay to the relay bracket. Replace the starter magnetic relay, install the nuts and screws and tighten to specification.

Figure 57 — Loosening Starter Magnetic Relay Nuts and Screws

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Filter Element Removal

6. Using tool J 24783, remove the centrifugal oil filter housing (9).

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED r

Fuel and Oil Filter Wrench J 24783

r

Oil Filter Wrench J 29927

7. Remove and discard the filter seal (2) and the centrifugal cartridge (10). Clean the filter housing.

59

The oil filter elements, as well as the Centri-Max® assembly and the coolant inlet pipe between the heat exchanger and oil cooler, must be removed before mounting the adapter plate to the engine.

If not already removed, remove the filters using the following procedure.

Refer to Figure 59.

1. Place a suitable container below the filter element area to catch any spilled fluids.

2. Using a suitable filter wrench, remove the oil filter elements. Do not reuse filter elements.

Discard used elements in a responsible, environmentally safe manner.

Do not apply the filter wrench to any area other than that labeled WRENCH HERE on the Centri-Max® filter housing, or damage to the housing may result.

3. Loosen drain hose (4) from the Centri-Max® filter housing assembly by loosening hose clamp (3) at the Centri-Max® housing.

4. Remove two nuts (6) and two washers (5) from studs (1) securing hose adapter (7) at the cylinder block. Discard O-ring (8).

5. Remove drain hose and adapter as an assembly.

Page 80

Figure 59 — Centri-Max® Housing 1. Studs 2. Seal Ring 3. Clamp 4. Drain Hose 5. Washers

6. Nuts 7. Adapter 8. O-Ring 9. Centri-Max® Housing 10. Centri-Max® Element

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Heat Exchanger to Oil Cooler Coolant Tube Removal 1. Loosen the clamps on the coolant tube couplings at the oil cooler assembly and at the heat exchanger.

60

Mounting Engine in Stand As discussed earlier, with the starter motor, starter magnetic relay, injection pump shutdown solenoid and filters all removed, it is good time to steam clean the engine before mounting in the stand. This will allow access to the entire engine without interference from the engine stand.

The engine weighs approximately 2,525 lbs.

(1145 kg). Stay out from under the engine when it is being lifted. Failure of the lifting device could result in serious injury or death.

Make sure to use lifting equipment that is rated to at least 3,000 lbs. capacity.

Figure 60 — Removing Coolant Tube

Engine stand, Kent-Moore tool number J 29109, and adapter plate J 38048, are recommended to safely support the engine during service procedures.

Avoid using an engine stand that supports the engine on the oil pan rail while the oil pan is still installed. Damage to the oil pan, pan gasket or the isolators may result. If this type of stand must be used and the oil pan is to remain installed, support the engine on the pads provided at each corner of the cylinder block as shown in Figure 61.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 61

Figure 61 — Engine Support Pads

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED

PROCEDURE

r

Engine Stand J 29109

Refer to Figure 62.

r

Adapter Plate J 38048

1. Using three mounting capscrews (2), secure adapter plate J 38048 (1) to the left side of the engine.

2. Secure adapter plate (1) to engine stand J 29109 (3) with six mounting capscrews (4).

3. Remove lifting device from the engine.

62

Figure 62 — Engine Mounting 1. Adapter Plate J 38048 2. Capscrews (M16 x 2)

3. Engine Stand J 29109 4. Capscrew

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Alternator Removal Refer to Figure 63.

1. Loosen the top mounting bolt (2) and lower mounting bolt and nut (3).

Blow-By Recirculation Vacuum Regulator and Breather Hose Removal 1. Separate the clamp at the blow-by recirculation unit (AIRSEP®) hose to vacuum regulator.

2. Remove the V-belts.

3. Disconnect and tag electrical wires.

64

4. Remove the top mounting bolt and washer.

5. Remove nut (3), washer and lower mounting bolt (6), and remove alternator (7).

6. Remove mounting hardware and remove alternator mounting bracket (5).

63

Figure 64 — Separate Vacuum Regulator 1. Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Hose Connection

2. Vacuum Regulator Connection

2. Separate the clamp at the breather hose to cylinder head cover tube and remove the blow-by recirculation hose and vacuum regulator from the engine.

65

Figure 63 — Alternator Removal 1. Double V-Belt 2. Top Mounting Bolt 3. Nut 4. Nut(s)

5. Bracket 6. Lower Mounting Bolt 7. Alternator Figure 65 — Vacuum Regulator and Hose

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 3. Loosen both of the remaining breather hose to cylinder head cover tube clamps and remove the hose.

66

2. Separate the vent hose at the exhaust manifold inlet fitting connection and the heat exchanger fitting.

68

Figure 66 — Breather Hose

Figure 68 — Coolant Vent Hose Forward Connections

3. Separate the vent hose at exhaust manifold outlet fitting connection and the turbocharger fitting.

Engine Cooling System Vent Line Removal 69

The engine cooling system vent lines connect the turbocharger, exhaust manifold and the heat exchanger. Remove these lines as an assembly to avoid confusion with other systems such as the coolant conditioner.

1. Remove the four capscrews securing the vent hose clamps to the cylinder head covers.

67

Figure 69 — Coolant Vent Hose Rearward Connections

Figure 67 — Removing Clamps on Coolant Vent Lines

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Removal 1. Remove the capscrew and nut securing the blow-by recirculation unit to the lower bracket. Then remove the clamp securing the oil drain back hose to the lower portion of the blow-back recirculation unit.

3. Loosen the blow-by recirculation unit oil drain back hose clamp at the sump tube and remove the hose.

72

70

Figure 72 — Blow-By Recirculation Oil Drain Back

4. Remove the blow-by recirculation unit oil drain back sump connection at the engine block.

73

Figure 70 — Blow-By Recirculation Support Bracket 2. Blow-By Recirculation 1. Blow-By Recirculation (AIRSEP®) Support Unit (AIRSEP®) Fastener Bracket 3. Oil Drain Back Hose

2. Remove the blow-by recirculation unit hose clamp at the turbocharger inlet and remove the blow-by recirculation unit as an assembly.

71

Figure 73 — Oil Drain Back Sump Connection

Figure 71 — Blow-By Recirculation Removal 1. Hose Clamp

Page 86

2. Blow-By Recirculation (AIRSEP®) Hose Connection

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Raw Water Pump Removal 1. Loosen both hose clamps from the raw water pump outlet to aftercooler hose and remove the hose.

3. Taking care not to damage the plastic coupling gear, remove the raw water pump by pulling it rearward out of the mounting flange. Discard gasket.

76

74

Figure 76 — Raw Water Pump Figure 74 — Raw Water Pump Connections 1. Hose Inlet Connection to Aftercooler

2. Hose Outlet Connection to Raw Water Pump

2. Remove three mounting capscrews securing the raw water pump adapter to the auxiliary driveshaft housing (engine block).

Check the end of the auxiliary shaft for the presence of the oil metering plug. Plug must be present to provide adequate lubrication for the raw water pump.

75 77

Figure 75 — Raw Water Pump Connection to Block Figure 77 — Correctly Installed Oil Metering Plug 1. Three Raw Water Capscrews 1. Correctly Installed Oil Metering Plug

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Fuel Filter Adapter and Coolant Conditioner Adapter Assembly Removal

79

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED r

Fuel and Oil Filter Wrench J 24783

r

Oil Filter Wrench J 29927 1. Remove the secondary fuel filter canister from the fuel filter adapter. Then remove the coolant conditioner canister from the coolant conditioner adapter.

78

Figure 79 — Removing Fuel Inlet and Outlet Lines

3. Remove the coolant conditioner outlet hose from the fitting on the coolant conditioner adapter. Then remove the hose from the block fitting.

80

Figure 78 — Removing Filter and Conditioner Canisters 1. Secondary Fuel Filter

2. Coolant Conditioner

2. Disconnect the inlet and outlet fuel lines from the two fittings on the fuel filter adapter assembly. Tag and cap the lines.

Figure 80 — Removing Outlet Hose from Adapter 1. Coolant Conditioner to Block Water Jacket Connection

Page 88

2. Coolant Conditioner Adapter Connection– Outlet

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 4. Remove the inlet hose from the fitting on the back of the bracket supporting the coolant conditioner and fuel filter adapters.

81

6. Remove the two capscrews securing the coolant conditioner adapter to the mounting bracket on the exhaust manifold.

83

Figure 81 — Removing Inlet Hose from Bracket 1. Coolant Conditioner to Thermostat Housing Hose Connection

Figure 83 — Removing Adapter Capscrews

7. Remove and discard the coolant conditioner adapter to bracket O-ring.

2. Exhaust Manifold Vent Hose (Ref.) 84

5. Remove the remaining section of coolant conditioner hose that connects with the thermostat housing fitting.

The coolant conditioner hose is clamped with a clamp using the front lifting eye mounting screw.

82

Figure 84 — Remove Adapter O-Ring 1. Coolant Conditioner Adapter Mounting Area

2. Coolant Conditioner Adapter O-Ring

Figure 82 — Coolant Conditioner Line Connection at Thermostat

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 8. Remove the two fuel filter adapter capscrews at the back of the mounting bracket on the exhaust manifold and remove the fuel filter adapter from the bracket.

LDA Acceleration Smoke Control Line Removal 1. Remove the capscrew and clamp, if equipped, securing the LDA line to cylinder head cover. Then, loosen the LDA connection at the inlet manifold fitting and remove the line.

85

87

Figure 85 — Removing Fuel Filter Adapter Capscrews

9. Remove the two adapter mounting bracket capscrews securing the bracket to the exhaust manifold and remove the bracket.

86

Figure 87 — LDA Line Connection at Inlet Manifold

Figure 86 — Removing Adapter Mounting Bracket Capscrews

The adapter mounting bracket capscrews also secure the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head.

The exhaust manifold capscrews are of different lengths depending on location. The capscrews at this bracket location are 6.5 inch (165 mm).

Page 90

1. Route LDA Line Under Breather Hose

2. LDA Line Connection at Inlet Manifold

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 2. Loosen the LDA line connection at the injection pump governor and remove the line from the engine.

Exhaust Mixer/Exit Pipe (If Equipped) Removal

88

1. While holding the weight of the mixer/exit pipe, loosen and remove the four retainer capscrews.

89

Figure 89 — Removing Mixer/Exit Pipe Retainers

2. Remove the exhaust mixer/exit pipe from the turbocharger.

90

Figure 88 — LDA Line Connection at Injection Pump

Figure 90 — Exhaust Mixer/Exit Pipe

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Turbocharger Removal 1. Loosen both clamps that secure the turbocharger coolant outlet and the exhaust manifold outlet hoses to the turbo and manifold fittings. Separate both hoses from the turbo and manifold fittings. Remove the clamps for use at reassembly.

2. Loosen both hose clamps that secure the turbocharger coolant outlet and exhaust manifold outlet hoses to the water manifold hose fittings. Remove the now-released turbocharger and exhaust manifold coolant outlet hose from the engine. Remove the clamps for use at reassembly.

92

91

Figure 91 — Turbocharger and Exhaust Manifold Outlet Hoses 1. Turbocharger to Water Manifold Hose and Clamps

2. Exhaust Manifold to Water Manifold Hose and Clamps Figure 92 — Water Manifold Hose Connections 1. Water Manifold 2. Water Manifold Hose Connection from Exhaust Manifold

Page 92

3. Water Manifold Hose Connection from Turbocharger

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 3. Loosen the engine block to turbocharger hose clamps and remove the hose.

93

5. Separate the O-ring from the groove of the collar on the outlet tube.

95

Figure 93 — Turbocharger Coolant Inlet Hose 1. Turbocharger Coolant Inlet Hose Connection

2. Engine Block to Turbocharger Coolant Hose Connection

4. Remove the capscrew retaining the turbocharger coolant outlet collar to the rear of the block. Carefully pry the collar out of the block using a flat-tipped screwdriver.

Figure 95 — Coolant Outlet Tube Collar 1. Coolant Outlet Tube Collar Groove

2. Coolant Outlet Tube Collar O-Ring

6. Remove the turbocharger lubrication feed hose from the turbocharger tube.

96

94

Figure 96 — Oil Inlet Tube at Turbocharger

Figure 94 — Coolant Outlet Tube

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 7. Loosen and remove the two 12-point capscrews securing the turbo oil drain tube to the turbo housing.

9. Loosen the hose clamp at the turbocharger oil drain tube connection on the oil fill tube.

Remove the oil drain tube bracket connection on the cylinder block and remove the drain tube from the engine.

97

99

Figure 97 — Turbocharger Oil Drain Tube

8. Remove the oil drain tube from the turbocharger housing. Then separate and discard the gasket.

98

Figure 99 — Removing Oil Drain Tube

10. Loosen the turbocharger compressor clamp which allows the compressor to rotate.

Loosen both sets of hose clamps on the turbocharger to aftercooler inlet air tube.

100

Figure 98 — Turbocharger Oil Drain Tube Gasket

Figure 100 — Turbocharger to Aftercooler Hose Clamps 1. Turbocharger Compressor Clamp 2. Turbocharger to Aftercooler Inlet Tube Hose Clamps

Page 94

3. Inlet Tube to Aftercooler Hose Clamps

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 11. Remove the air inlet tube by slightly rotating the turbocharger compressor to allow release of the tube, connecting hoses and spring clamps.

13. Remove the turbocharger assembly and recover the steel plate gasket between the turbocharger and the exhaust manifold.

103

101

Figure 103 — Removing Turbocharger with Steel Gasket Figure 101 — Turbocharger to Aftercooler Tube

12. While supporting the weight of the turbocharger, remove the four nuts securing the turbocharger to the back of the exhaust manifold.

102

Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly Removal 1. Loosen six tube sleeve nuts at the injection pump. Be careful to avoid twisting lines while loosening nuts.

2. Loosen the rear inlet tube bracket by removing the two exhaust manifold bolts.

Exhaust manifold attaching bolt lengths vary depending on bolt location. The bolts retaining fuel inlet tube bracket are both 6.50 inches (165 mm).

Figure 102 — Turbocharger to Exhaust Manifold Attachment Nuts

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 3. Loosen tube sleeve nuts and tube clamping bracket screws at the cylinder heads.

104

5. Loosen the clamp and remove the exhaust manifold coolant inlet hose. Then remove the exhaust manifold coolant inlet and vent fittings. Removal of these fittings is necessary to allow access for the front fuel inlet lines to pass by the end of the exhaust manifold.

106

Figure 104 — Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly 1. Front 1, 2 and 3 Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Bracket to Block Capscrew 2. Rear 4, 5 and 6 Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Brackets to Manifold Bolts

3. Tube Sleeve Nuts at Cylinder Heads 4. Tube Sleeve Nuts at Injection Pump

4. Remove rear 4, 5 and 6 tube assemblies with clamp bracket.

105

Figure 106 — Remove Coolant System Inlet 1. Vent Line Fitting 2. Exhaust Manifold Coolant Inlet Fitting

3. Exhaust Manifold Coolant Inlet Hose

6. Loosen the clamp and remove the remaining end of the exhaust manifold coolant inlet hose at the water pump tube.

107

Figure 105 — Remove Rear Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Figure 107 — Remove Exhaust Manifold Coolant Inlet Hose

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 7. Separate the fuel nozzle inlet tube clamp bracket for the lines 1, 2 and 3 by removing the clamp bolts. Remove the lower fuel nozzle inlet tube clamp bracket by removing the injection pump nut. Remove the front 1, 2 and 3 fuel inlet tube sleeve nuts at the injection pump, if not previously done.

9. If necessary, separate fuel inlet tubes (4) from bracket assembly. Remove nuts (6) from capscrews (1) and remove clamp plate (2), insulators (3) and bracket (5).

110

108

Figure 108 — Front Fuel Inlet Tubes 1. Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Lower Clamp Bracket Bolts 2. Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Lower Clamp Bracket

3. Lower Clamp Bracket to Injection Pump Nut 4. Front 1, 2 and 3 Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tubes

8. With the fuel nozzle inlet tube top clamp bracket attached, remove fuel inlet tubes 1, 2 and 3 as an assembly.

109

Figure 110 — Inlet Tube Clamp 1. Capscrews 2. Clamp Plate 3. Insulator

4. Fuel Inlet Tubes 5. Bracket 6. Nuts

Figure 109 — Removing Front Inlet Tubes

Page 97

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 10. Cap all lines and top of delivery valves of injection pump to prevent contaminants from entering the system.

111

2. Remove the capscrews retaining the throttle return back-up spring bracket and remove the bracket. Then remove the capscrews retaining the throttle return back-up pivot lever bracket to the cylinder block and remove the bracket.

113

Figure 111 — Cap Injection Pump and Lines 1. Injection Pump and Line Caps Figure 113 — Throttle Return Back-Up Brackets

Injection Pump Throttle Return to Idle Mechanism 1. Remove the injection pump throttle return to idle back-up spring using hand pressure.

Then remove the throttle return spring and throttle return back-up cable from the throttle return pivot lever bracket.

112

1. Throttle Return Back-Up Spring Bracket

2. Throttle Return Back-Up Pivot Lever Bracket

Engine Oil Fill Tube Removal 1. Remove the two capscrews securing the oil fill tube to the cylinder block and remove the tube.

114

Figure 112 — Throttle Return to Idle Mechanism 1. Throttle Return Back-Up Spring 2. Throttle Return Spring

Page 98

3. Throttle Return Back-Up Cable

Figure 114 — Engine Oil Fill Tube

2. Scrape any remaining gasket material from the tube and block.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Exhaust Manifold Removal 1. To support the exhaust manifold during removal, insert two long guide studs (of the same thread as the manifold bolts, M12 x 1.75) into previously removed exhaust manifold bolt holes (fourth back from the front on the bottom and second back from the front on the top), as shown in Figure 115.

115

The exhaust manifold is a very heavy casting. To prevent personal injury, acquire assistance to help remove the manifold.

4. Remove the supporting guide studs and exhaust manifold gaskets from the cylinder heads.

117

Figure 115 — Installing Guide Studs 1. Bolt Length of 6.89 inches (175 mm) 2. Bolt Length of 6.50 inches (165 mm)

3. Bolt Length of 6.10 inches (155 mm) 4. Manifold Guide Stud Locations

Figure 117 — Removing Guide Studs and Gaskets

5. Discard gaskets.

2. Remove the remaining exhaust manifold bolts. Note bolt lengths for reassembly (refer to Figure 115).

3. Remove exhaust manifold.

116

Figure 116 — Removing Manifold

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Heat Exchanger Removal

4. Remove the three heat exchanger bracketto-water pump capscrews.

1. Loosen the two heat exchanger-to-bracket spring clamps.

Not shown, there is a screw on the backside of this bracket which attaches to a boss on the water pump housing which also must be removed.

2. Loosen the heat exchanger-to-oil cooler inlet tube hose spring clamps.

118

Before removing these screws, the drive belts must be removed from the water pump pulley to prevent the belt tension from pulling the water pump loose.

120

Figure 118 — Remove Heat Exchanger Spring Clamps 1. Heat Exchanger-toBracket Retaining Clamps

2. Heat Exchanger-to-Oil Cooler Inlet Hose

3. Loosen thermostat housing-to-heat exchanger hose spring clamp. Then, remove the heat exchanger and four rubber strips from the bracket.

119

Figure 120 — Removing Bracket Capscrews 1. Heat Exchanger Bracket-to-Water Pump Capscrew

5. Remove the heat exchanger-to-water pump bracket.

121

Figure 119 — Removing Heat Exchanger 1. Thermostat Housing-toHeat Exchanger Hose

2. Gear Oil Cooler-to-Heat Exchanger Hose Figure 121 — Removing Bracket

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Gear Oil Cooler Removal 1. Loosen the gear oil cooler-to-bracket spring clamp.

3. Remove the rubber pads from the gear oil cooler bracket.

124

122

Figure 124 — Removing Rubber Pads Figure 122 — Loosening Spring Clamp

2. Remove the gear oil cooler and attaching raw water inlet tube from the bracket.

123

Aftercooler Removal 1. Loosen the four air-inlet hose spring clamps.

125

Figure 123 — Removing Gear Oil Cooler

Figure 125 — Loosen Spring Clamps 1. Air Inlet Tube-to-Manifold Hose Clamps

2. Air Inlet Tube-toAftercooler Hose Clamps

Page 101

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 2. Remove the air inlet tube, spring clamps and hose.

126

4. While supporting the aftercooler assembly, remove the two bolts securing the aftercooler lower bracket to the flywheel housing.

128

Figure 126 — Removing Air Inlet Tube

3. Remove the bolt securing the aftercooler upper brace to the rear cylinder head bolt.

As the bolt is removed, make sure to extract the machined spacer from between the brace and cylinder head bolt.

Figure 128 — Removing Aftercooler Lower Bracket Bolts

5. Lift the aftercooler assembly off the flywheel housing.

127

The aftercooler is a very heavy and fragile casting assembly. To prevent damage or personal injury, acquire assistance to help remove the cooler to a clean work surface.

129

Figure 127 — Removing Brace Bolt and Spacer

Figure 129 — Removing Aftercooler

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Thermostat Removal

3. Remove the four thermostat housing capscrews (11) securing the housing (3) to the coolant manifold (7).

Refer to Figure 130.

1. Remove the thermostat housing-to-coolant conditioner inlet hose (13) from the fitting (12) on the thermostat housing (3).

2. Loosen the thermostat housing outlet hose (1) and spring clamp (2). Remove hose and clamp.

4. Loosen two spring clamps (8) on the coupling hose (10) that connects the oil cooler supply (by-pass) tube (9) to the thermostat housing (3).

5. Remove the thermostat housing (3) and thermostat (5). Discard the housing gasket (6) and seal (4).

130

Figure 130 — Thermostat Housing Assembly 1. Thermostat Hose 2. Spring Clamps 3. Thermostat Housing 4. Thermostat Seal 5. Thermostat

6. Gasket 7. Coolant Manifold 8. Spring Clamps 9. Oil Cooler Supply (By-Pass) Tube

10. Coupling Hose 11. Capscrew 12. Coolant Conditioner Inlet Fitting 13. Coolant Conditioner Inlet Hose

Page 103

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Coolant Manifold Removal Refer to Figure 131.

1. Support the coolant manifold sections and remove 12 capscrews (9) retaining the manifold sections (1 and 5) to the cylinder heads.

2. Remove manifold assembly. It may be necessary to pry or tap lightly with a soft mallet on the housing sections to break the seal.

3. If necessary, separate the two coolant manifold sections (1 and 5) by loosening two clamps (2) and removing the hose (3).

131

Figure 131 — Coolant and Air Inlet Manifolds 1. Coolant Manifold (Front Section) 2. Clamp 3. Hose 4. Turbocharger Coolant Return 5. Coolant Manifold (Rear Section) 6. Air Inlet Manifold (Rear Section)

Page 104

7. Spring Clamp 8. Coupling 9. Capscrew 10. LDA Connection 11. Air Inlet Manifold (Front Section) 12. Capscrews (12-Point)

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Air Inlet Manifold Removal Refer to Figure 131.

1. Support the air inlet manifold sections and remove 12 capscrews (12) that secure the manifold sections (6 and 11) to the cylinder heads.

2. Remove air inlet manifold assembly. It may be necessary to gently pry or lightly tap the manifolds with a soft mallet to break the seal.

Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Housing Assembly Removal Refer to Figure 132.

1. Disconnect the turbocharger lubrication feed hose (5) from the oil filter/cooler assembly (4).

2. Locate and clean the breather (1) with suitable solvent to make sure breather is clear.

3. Remove four capscrews (2) securing the oil filter mounting bracket (3) to engine block.

4. Locate and remove the two capscrews retaining the oil cooler assembly to the water pump. Discard gasket.

Unless it is necessary to repair any portion of the oil cooler or oil filter housing, remove the units as an assembly. The assembly can be disassembled later if necessary. Refer to “Oil Cooler Assembly Inspection and Repair” on page 181.

132

Figure 132 — Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Housing Assembly 1. Vent Fitting 2. Capscrew 3. Oil Filter Mounting Bracket

4. Oil Filter/Cooler Assembly 5. Turbocharger Lubrication Feed Hose

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Water Pump Removal

Fuel Injection Pump Removal

Refer to Figure 133.

1. Remove the two capscrews (4) retaining the water pump bracket (5) to the cylinder head.

2. Remove the water pump capscrew (2) and lifting eye bracket to cylinder head screw (1) from lifting bracket (3). Remove water pump (9).

Anytime the injection pump is removed and reinstalled, it is necessary to set injection pumpto-engine timing. Refer to “Injection Pump FixedTiming Procedures” on page 273.

133

Refer to Figure 135.

1. Disconnect the throttle linkage from the injection pump.

2. Disconnect LDA hose and fuel return line and fuel and oil supply lines from injection pump.

If the fuel injection pump does not require servicing, set injection pump-to-engine timing before removal. This allows ease of installation.

Refer to “Injection Pump Fixed-Timing Procedures” on page 273.

3. Working from the front of the engine, remove the injection pump driven gear access cover capscrews.

4. Remove the access cover and mechanical tachometer drive as an assembly.

Figure 133 — Water Pump Assembly 1. Capscrew (Retains 5. Water Pump Support Bracket to Cylinder Bracket Head) 6. Capscrew (Also Retains 2. Capscrew (Retains Heat Exchanger Bracket and Water Bracket) Pump) 7. Capscrew (Connects 3. Engine Front Lifting Oil Cooler) Bracket 8. Coolant Drain Petcock 4. Capscrew (Also Retains 9. Water Pump Heat Exchanger Bracket) 10. Water Pump-to-Exhaust Manifold Inlet Pipe

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 134

135

Figure 134 — Injection Pump Gear Access Cover and Tachometer Drive

5. Remove four capscrews (5) securing the injection pump driven gear (4) to the hub (8).

6. Remove the injection pump driven gear (4).

Figure 135 — Injection Pump Driven Gear and Hub Assembly 1. Injection Pump 2. Drive Hub Washer 3. Engine Block 4. Driven Gear 5. Driven Gear Capscrews

6. Drive Hub Nut 7. Mechanical Tachometer Drive Hex 8. Drive Hub 9. Injection Pump O-Ring

7. Remove the four injection pump mounting capscrews.

8. Remove injection pump by moving it away from mounting flange. Grasp firmly, lifting the back of the pump slightly, using a smooth motion to disengage the pump from the engine block.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Valve Cover Removal

Injector Nozzle Holder Removal

Refer to Figure 136.

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED

1. Remove all remaining capscrews (2) securing the two valve covers (1).

r

Injection Nozzle Puller J 37093

2. Remove valve covers (1).

3. Inspect valve cover gaskets and replace if damaged or covers indicate leakage.

136

After removing the nozzles, it is a good practice to label or tag them for reinstallation into the same cylinders. After removal, place nozzles on a clean surface.

Refer to Figure 137.

1. Remove nozzle holder retainer (2).

2. Assemble injection nozzle puller J 37093 as follows: a.

Attach nut (12), bearing (11), spacer (10) and rubber washer (9) to tool handle (1).

b.

Screw handle (1) in threaded hole of nozzle holder (5) until rubber washer (9) is slightly compressed.

3. With tool in position, turn nut (12) clockwise to draw nozzle holder from cylinder head nozzle mounting hole (8).

4. Continue turning nut until nozzle holder is free of insert. Remove nozzle holder and puller tool as an assembly.

5. Remove nozzle holder gasket (7). The gasket is manufactured from a special iron material 0.060 inch (1.524 mm) thick.

6. Remove remaining nozzle holders in the same manner.

Figure 136 — Valve Cover and Cylinder Head 1. Valve Cover 2. Capscrew 3. Rocker Arm Shaft Bracket 4. Valve Yoke

Page 108

5. Head Bolt with Threaded Hole 6. Push Rod 7. Rocker Arm Assembly 8. Washer 9. Capscrew

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Rocker Arm, Valve Yoke and Push Rod Removal

137

Refer to Figure 138.

1. Remove the capscrews (9) and washers (8) from rocker arm shaft brackets (3). Remove rocker arm assembly (7) from each head.

2. Remove valve yokes (4) from each pair of valves by lifting straight up on each yoke.

Tag yokes for reassembly.

3. Remove valve push rods (6) and tag push rods for reassembly.

138

Figure 137 — Nozzle Holder 1. Handle 2. Nozzle Holder Retainer 3. O-Ring 4. O-Ring 5. Nozzle Holder 6. Nozzle

7. Gasket 8. Nozzle Mounting Hole 9. Rubber Washer 10. Spacer 11. Bearing 12. Nut

Figure 138 — Valve Cover and Rocker Arms 1. Valve Cover 2. Capscrew 3. Rocker Arm Shaft Bracket 4. Valve Yoke 5. Head Bolt with Threaded Hole

6. Push Rod 7. Rocker Arm Assembly 8. Washer 9. Capscrew

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Cylinder Head Assembly Removal Refer to Figure 139.

1. Remove fuel return tube (3) from between the cylinder head assemblies (4) by loosening the tube sleeve nuts from each end.

2. Remove fuel return line (1) at the front of the forward cylinder head.

3. Remove cylinder head bolts (2 and 5). Refer to cylinder head bolt torque sequence chart in Cylinder Head Installation for location of bolts, if necessary.

Cylinder head assemblies are heavy. Lifting a cylinder head requires the help of an assistant or suitable lifting device. Attempting to lift a cylinder head without assistance may result in severe personal injury.

4. Using a suitable lifting device, remove heads from the engine block.

5. Remove gaskets and six fire rings. Discard gaskets and fire rings.

139

Figure 139 — Cylinder Heads 1. Fuel Return Line 2. Bolt 3. Fuel Return Tube

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4. Cylinder Head 5. Head Bolt with Threaded Hole

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Vibration Damper and Crankshaft Hub Removal

Oil Pan Removal

Refer to Figure 140.

1. Remove six mounting capscrews (4) and turnover bracket, if equipped.

2. Remove vibration damper (3) and fan belt drive pulley (1) as an assembly.

3. Using a 24-mm wrench, remove crankshaft hub capscrew (2).

4. Using a suitable puller such as J 24420-C, or equivalent, remove the crankshaft hub.

140

The oil pan used on the MackPower™ M-E7 marine engine has a special nickel coating applied before being painted. Do not replace this oil pan with the automotive version of the pan. Do not use heavy abrasives to clean or remove the finish of this pan. Heavy abrasives can remove the nickel coating and cause subsequent oil pan corrosion.

Refer to Figure 141.

1. Remove the two studs securing the oil pan to the timing gear cover.

2. Remove the two studs securing the oil pan to the flywheel housing.

3. Remove the remaining six studs securing the sides of the oil pan to the cylinder block.

4. Remove the remaining shouldered bolts securing the oil pan to the pan rails and remove the oil pan.

Refer to Figure 141 for location of nuts and shouldered studs.

Figure 140 — Vibration Damper 1. Pulley 2. Capscrew

3. Vibration Damper 4. Capscrew

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 141

Figure 141 — Oil Pan Bolt Locations 1. Studs at Timing Gear Cover 2. Studs at Flywheel Housing

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3. Shouldered Bolts Along Pan Rails 4. Studs Along Pan Rails

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Oil Pump Removal

Remove the oil pump as a unit by removing three retaining capscrews (1).

Refer to Figure 142.

142

If the oil pump must be disassembled for any reason, it will be easier to loosen the housing cover retaining capscrews (2), the screen capscrews (5), the oil inlet (pickup) tube capscrews (3), the cover plate capscrews (9), and the relief valve cap (8) while the pump is still secured to the engine block.

Figure 142 — Lubrication Oil Pump 1. Capscrews 2. Capscrews 3. Capscrews, 12-Point 4. Oil Inlet (Pickup) Tube 5. Capscrews

6. Washer 7. Screen 8. Relief Valve Cap 9. Capscrews 10. Plate

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Timing Gear Cover Removal

143

Do not attempt to remove timing gear cover without removing oil pan. Doing so may result in damage to the isolating oil pan gasket.

Refer to Figure 143.

1. Remove front engine mount pedestal (4) by removing six retaining capscrews (7 and 8).

2. Remove cover (11) by removing mounting nuts (9) and washers (10). Scrape any remaining gasket material from cover.

3. If not already done, remove the injection pump timing cover (13) by removing the mounting capscrews (1 and 12). Discard O-ring (2).

4. Remove remaining mounting capscrews (12) from timing gear cover (3).

Do not damage the timing indicator (5) when removing timing gear cover.

5. Remove timing gear cover. It will be necessary to pry the cover from the engine block. Be careful not to damage cover or block while using sharp tools around machined surfaces.

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Figure 143 — Timing Gear Cover 1. Capscrew 2. O-Ring 3. Timing Gear Cover 4. Front Engine Mount Pedestal 5. Timing Indicator 6. Capscrew 7. Capscrew

8. Capscrew 9. Nut 10. Washer 11. Cover 12. Capscrew 13. Injection Pump Gear Access Cover

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Auxiliary Driveshaft Removal Refer to Figure 144.

1. Remove auxiliary driveshaft gear retaining nut (1).

2. Using a hub puller such as J 21834-4A, or equivalent, remove auxiliary driveshaft gear (2) from the splines (5) on the end of shaft.

4. Remove the auxiliary driveshaft (3) by pulling it rearward out of the raw water pump mounting flange opening. With engine oil pump in position, a rotating motion may be necessary to clear the engine oil pump drive gear (6).

145

3. Remove two retaining capscrews (3) from auxiliary driveshaft captured thrust washer (4). Remove washer.

144

Figure 144 — Auxiliary Driveshaft Gear and Captured Thrust Washer 1. Nut 2. Auxiliary Driveshaft Gear 3. Capscrew

4. Captured Thrust Washer 5. Shaft Splines

Figure 145 — Auxiliary Driveshaft 1. Rear Bushing 2. Front Journal 3. Auxiliary Driveshaft

4. Rear Journal 5. Oil Metering Plug 6. Oil Pump Drive Gear

Refer to Figure 145.

Avoid damaging the auxiliary driveshaft bushings or journals while removing the shaft.

Note the oil feed hole in the oil metering plug at the rear of the auxiliary shaft. If this hole is plugged up, the raw water pump may fail from oil starvation. Also, the loss of oil pressure that results from a missing plug can cause damage and problems in other components and parts.

Make sure the plug is not missing or the metering hole is not plugged. If replacing the auxiliary driveshaft, make sure to install a new plug.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 2. Remove the two 12-point capscrews (3) that retain camshaft thrust washer (1). Camshaft may have to be rotated slightly to make the capscrews accessible through openings (2) in the camshaft drive gear (4).

146

147

Figure 146 — Auxiliary Driveshaft Oil Metering Plug 1. Correctly Installed Oil Metering Plug

Camshaft Removal

Make sure all loose components are secured to, or removed from, the engine before rotating engine on the stand. Failure to do so may result in damage to components or severe personal injury.

1. Rotate engine so that the deck surface is downward and the oil pan rail is upward (engine inverted).

Figure 147 — Camshaft Thrust Washer Capscrews

When the engine is rotated, the valve lifters will fall downward into the push rod holes but will be captured by their heads. They will be out of the way for camshaft removal.

Refer to Figure 147.

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1. Thrust Washer 2. Openings

Refer to Figure 148.

3. Capscrew, 12-Point 4. Camshaft Drive Gear

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 3. Install the camshaft removal/installation tool J 41461 (3) onto the rear segment of the camshaft (1), securing it with the clip (2) to the shaft.

Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly Removal

148

The crankshaft and related components are heavy, have sharp edges and many possible pinch points. Always be careful while working in this area to avoid serious personal injury.

Before removing pistons, connecting rods and rod caps, ensure they are marked so they can be reinstalled in the same cylinders from which they were removed.

Figure 148 — Camshaft Removal/Installation Tool 1. Rear Segment of Camshaft 2. Tool Retaining Clip

3. Camshaft Removal/ Installation Tool

4. Taking care not to damage camshaft or bushings, pull camshaft out of the front of the engine. Carefully guide rear of shaft through the journals. If shaft does not come out freely, ensure all valve lifters are clear of camshaft cams and journals.

5. Remove valve lifters.

Remove connecting rod and piston assemblies in companion cylinder sets: 1 and 6, 2 and 5, and 3 and 4.

1. Rotate engine stand 90 degrees so that pistons lie horizontally in the block with top of pistons and connecting rods accessible.

2. Rotate crankshaft so that pistons 1 and 6 are lowered in the cylinder at least two inches (51 mm). This allows adequate room to remove carbon from the upper edge of the sleeves.

Valve lifters have established wear patterns and should be reinstalled in same locations. Label each valve lifter upon removal and place on a clean work surface.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Refer to Figure 149.

3. Using a sharp knife, carefully remove any carbon at the top of the sleeves. Remove any remaining carbon using crocus cloth or fine sandpaper, then wipe inside of sleeves with a clean cloth.

Refer to Figure 150.

4. Rotate crankshaft so that pistons 1 and 6 are at bottom dead center. Remove connecting rod capscrews and rod bearing caps.

150

149

Figure 149 — Carbon Removal from Cylinder Sleeves

Figure 150 — Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly Removal

5. Using a hammer handle, push piston 1 from the cylinder bore. Remove piston 6 in the same manner.

6. After removing pistons 1 and 6, rotate crankshaft so that the next set of pistons (2 and 5) are at bottom dead center.

7. Repeat steps 2 through 6 for removing piston sets 2 and 5, and 3 and 4.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Flywheel Removal Refer to Figure 151.

1. With engine stand rotated so that engine is inverted (crankshaft horizontal), loosen all six flywheel retaining capscrews.

2. Remove two of the flywheel retaining capscrews that are opposite each other.

Install two longer capscrews or studs to allow flywheel to be safely removed from the crankshaft.

3. Remove remaining capscrews.

4. Carefully tap flywheel by alternating from side to side to work it off the aligning dowel pins.

5. Support the flywheel and remove two guide capscrews or studs.

6. Using a suitable lifting device such as J 25026-A, or an assistant, remove the flywheel.

Flywheel Housing Removal Refer to Figure 152.

1. Remove eight mounting capscrews (3) from flywheel housing (2).

2. Remove flywheel housing. It may be necessary to tap lightly on the housing with a soft mallet to separate housing from engine block.

152

The flywheel is heavy. Lifting the flywheel requires the help of an assistant or the use of a suitable lifting device (J 25026-A, or equivalent). Attempting to lift a flywheel without such assistance may result in severe personal injury.

151

Figure 152 — Flywheel Housing 1. Capscrew Locations 2. Flywheel Housing

3. Capscrew

Figure 151 — Flywheel

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Main Bearing Cap Removal

Before removing main bearing caps, ensure they are marked so they can be reinstalled on the same journals. Keep the bearings with the same cap, and tag or mark them to identify the cam side of the bearings.

Refer to Figure 153.

1. Remove eight buttress capscrews (2 and 3).

2. Remove main bearing capscrews (1) from each of the seven bearing caps (4 and 5).

The center main bearing cap (5) houses the thrust washers.

3. Position a lady-foot pry bar under the tabs provided on bearing caps and pry bearing caps upward. To work them loose, it may be necessary to tap the bearing caps alternately from side to side with a soft mallet.

153

Figure 153 — Buttress Capscrew Identification and Location 1. Main Bearing Cap Capscrews 2. Buttress Capscrews, 80 mm 3. Buttress Capscrews, 110 mm

Page 120

4. Main Bearing Caps 5. Center Main Bearing Cap

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Crankshaft Removal Refer to Figure 154.

1. Using a suitable lifting device, secure a sling or crankshaft support tool around the crankshaft and lifting device hook. Ensure crankshaft is evenly balanced when lifted from the engine block.

2. Lift crankshaft from engine block and store in a secured stand, or horizontally on V-blocks.

CYLINDER BLOCK RECONDITIONING Piston Cooling Spray Nozzle Removal

To avoid damaging spray nozzles, remove them before removing sleeves.

154

It is best to use a 10-mm, 6-point socket on a 12-inch extension to remove the nozzle retaining capscrews.

Refer to Figure 155.

1. Remove piston cooling spray nozzle (2) by removing retaining capscrew (3).

2. Carefully pull outward on the spray nozzle to remove it from the block.

3. Remove and discard elastomer seal (1).

4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 to remove remaining spray nozzles.

155

Figure 154 — Crankshaft Removal

Figure 155 — Spray Nozzle 1. Elastomer Seal 2. Spray Nozzle

3. Capscrew

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Cylinder Sleeve Removal

6. Remove puller from sleeve.

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED

7. Repeat steps 2 through 7 to remove remaining cylinder sleeves.

r

Cylinder Liner/Sleeve Puller PT6435

157

Refer to Figure 156 and Figure 157.

1. Rotate engine in stand so that it is upright (deck surface upward).

2. Use puller PT6435, or equivalent, to remove cylinder sleeve (1) from cylinder block (3).

3. Position puller above the sleeve and guide the puller shaft through the sleeve.

Extreme care must be taken to make sure the puller shoe is properly aligned in the bottom of the sleeve to prevent damage to the block.

4. Position puller shoe so that it catches the lower lip of the sleeve. Ensure that it does not extend beyond outside edges of the sleeve, to prevent contact with the cylinder block as the sleeve is removed.

5. Tighten screw on the puller until sleeve comes free from cylinder block bore.

Remove shims (2), if installed.

156

Figure 157 — Sleeve 1. Cylinder Sleeve 2. Shims

Figure 156 — Cylinder Liner/Sleeve Puller PT6435

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3. Cylinder Block

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Cylinder Sleeve Counterbore Repair SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED r

Counterbore Tool PT2210

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Counterbore Cutter Plate PT2210-3A

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Universal Dial Depth Gauge PT5025

r

Stylus Extension (3-Inch) PT5052-11

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Hex Key Wrench PT2210-14

SETTING UP COUNTERBORE TOOL PT2210 WITH CUTTER PLATE PT2210-3A Refer to Figure 158.

1. Loosen the two cutter bit hold-down capscrews (9). Install cutter bit (11) into cutter plate PT2210-3A (13) by turning the cutter bit adjuster (10) counterclockwise.

Cutter bit face must be facing a clockwise rotation cut.

INSPECTION AND REPAIR If the cylinder block deck is resurfaced, the cylinder sleeve counterbore depth must be recut to specification. If the cylinder block deck was not resurfaced but cylinder sleeve counterbore surface shows excessive pitting or erosion, recut the counterbore as required.

Use shims to re-establish the correct liner flange height. Shims are available in the following thicknesses: 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.008, 0.010, 0.012 and 0.014 inch.

To resurface the cylinder sleeve counterbore area of the cylinder block, use counterbore tool PT2210 with counterbore cutter plate PT2210-3A.

Do not tighten the cutter bit hold-down cap (12).

The cutter point should not extend beyond the outer edge of the cutter plate. If the cutter bit does stick out, damage to the bit will occur when installing counterbore tool onto cylinder block.

2. Install the cutter plate on the main shaft (15).

Use the large end of hex key wrench PT2210-14 (18) to hold the cutter plate and tighten securely. The hole in the side of the cutter plate accepts the large end of the tool.

Do not allow the cutter bit (11) to touch the cylinder sleeve bore wall.

Do not cut seats deeper than 4.034 inches (102.464 mm).

1. Make sure that the top of the deck is clean and free of burrs. Use a finish mill file and crocus cloth, if necessary, to create a smooth, flat surface for positioning the tool.

2. Using compressed air, thoroughly remove all debris.

When the entire block must be counterbored, cut the deepest bores first. This way, the tool can be adjusted to the lowest depth and used for all cylinders, ensuring uniform depth on all cylinder counterbores.

3. Position the tool in the cylinder bore by backing off the depth-set collars (5 and 16) and lowering the cutter plate (13) into the counterbore to center the tool.

Universal dial depth gauge PT5025, with a 3-inch stylus extension PT5052-11, is recommended for measuring the counterbore.

4. Secure the cutter plate to the cylinder block with four M16 x 2 x 90 hex-head capscrews (3) and special washers (4) from the counterbore tool kit PT2210.

3. Measure and record the counterbore in four places, 90 degrees apart. Using a depth gauge with a 3-inch extension, mark the shallowest point. Subtract the lowest number from the highest number. This is the minimum amount to be machined for cleanup.

5. Cross-torque the capscrews to 30 lb-ft (41 N•m) using torque wrench J 24406, or equivalent.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

Lift T-handle (2) slightly (so cutter plate is not in contact with the counterbore) and rotate the mainshaft (15) counterclockwise to ensure cutter plate turns freely without binding. If necessary, loosen the capscrews and relocate the tool.

11. Using hex key wrench PT2210-14 (18), turn the cutter bit adjusting screw clockwise until the cutter bit rests on the counterbore ledge.

12. If the cutter bit will not adjust, adjust the lower depth-set collar (16) 0.005 inch (0.127 mm) more and recheck cutter bit hold-down screws for looseness.

13. Zero the depth-set collars:

6. Using the counterbore tool T-handle (2), raise the cutter plate approximately 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) from the counterbore ledge.

7. Using hex key wrench PT2210-14 (18), turn the cutter bit adjusting screw (10) clockwise until the cutter bit contacts the counterbore ledge. Do not touch the counterbore wall.

a.

Back off the lower depth-set collar (16) and carefully lower the cutter plate (13) into the bore and allow the cutter to rest on the counterbore ledge.

b.

Rotate both depth-set collars (5 and 16) down until the bottom collar contacts the main housing (8).

8. Back off the lower depth-set collar (16) and lower the cutter plate until the cutter rests on the ledge.

9. Rotate the lower depth-set collar down until the collar contacts the main housing.

10. Rotate the collar an additional five increments: 0.005 inch (0.127 mm). Each graduation of the collar is one-thousandth (0.001) of an inch (0.025 mm). This will lift the cutter bit 0.005 inch (0.127 mm) off the counterbore ledge, allowing an accurate setting of the cutter bit.

It may be necessary to use a flashlight to see the cutter bit adjusting screw.

Page 124

Do not force the collar beyond this point, as it will lift the cutter plate and prevent an accurate zero reading.

14. Set the depth of the cut. Determine the final depth of the cut and back off the top depthset collar accordingly. Each increment on the depth-set collar increases the depth of the cut by one-thousandth (0.001) of an inch (0.025 mm). Tighten the thumbscrew (17) on the upper collar (5) securely.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 158

Figure 158 — Counterbore Ledge Tool Installation 1. Cutter Plate Holder 2. T-Handle 3. Capscrews, M16 x 2 x 90 4. Special Washers 5. Upper Depth-Set Collar 6. Lower Thumbscrew 7. Oil Fill Tube 8. Main Housing 9. Hold-Down Capscrews

10. Cutter Bit Adjuster 11. Cutter Bit 12. Hold-Down Cap 13. Cutter Plate 14. Cylinder Block 15. Main Shaft 16. Lower Depth-Set Collar 17. Upper Thumbscrew 18. Hex Key Wrench

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CUTTING THE COUNTERBORE

CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Refer to Figure 158.

The engine should have been thoroughly steam cleaned prior to component removal and the block should be relatively clean. If heavy accumulations of dirt and grease are still present, steam clean the block as thoroughly as possible before attempting to clean with solvents.

1. Fill the oil fill tube (7) with 30W nondetergent oil to maintain lubrication during use.

2. Back off the lower depth-set collar (16) two increments or less, and tighten the thumbscrew (6) securely.

3. Cut the counterbore by turning the T-handle clockwise while maintaining constant downward pressure on the tool. Stop the handle in a different position to avoid creating a ridge in the counterbore.

4. Continue backing off the lower depth-set collar, no more than two graduations per cut.

Check the depth measurement between each adjustment. Plan to remove 0.001 inch (0.025 mm) on the final cut to meet the final predetermined counterbore depth. This ensures achieving a very fine machined finish.

5. Remove the tool from the cylinder bore. a.

Loosen the two cutter bit hold-down capscrews (9) and rotate the cutter bit adjusting screw (10) counterclockwise until the cutter bit is retracted into the cutter plate (13).

b.

Remove the four machine hold-down bolts (3) and special washers (4).

c.

Remove the tool from the cylinder bore.

6. Follow steps 1 through 5 for the remaining cylinders.

Cylinder Block Core Plug and Camshaft and Auxiliary Shaft Bushing Replacement SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED r

Camshaft Bushing Installation/Removal Kit J 37713

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Camshaft Bushing Remover/Installer J 21428-01

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Counterbore Tool PT2210

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Counterbore Cutter Plate PT2210-3A

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Hex Key Wrench PT2210-14

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Universal Dial Depth Gauge PT5025

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3-Inch Stylus Extension PT5025-11

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Cleaning solvent is flammable and toxic to the eyes, skin and respiratory tract. Skin and eye protection are required. Avoid repeated or prolonged contact. Use only in well-ventilated area.

Compressed air used for cleaning can create airborne particles that may enter the eyes or irritate the skin. Pressure must not exceed 30 psi (207 kPa). Eye protection is required.

Use only with effective chip guarding and personal protective equipment (goggles/ shield, gloves, etc.).

Cleaning the cylinder block is important. While cleaning the cylinder block, carefully inspect the areas around the cup plugs and the coolant jacket. If cup plugs or pipe plugs show signs of leaking, they should be replaced.

Cleaning the cylinder block is a good time to inspect it for cracks or other possible defects that may be reason for rejection. Refer to the Troubleshooting section for information on testing for leaks in the cylinder head and cylinder block.

If damage is not found until after the engine is assembled, the engine must be disassembled and rebuilt again.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Solvent Tank Cleaning

159

Use a cleaning tank large enough to accommodate the largest component to be cleaned. Fill the tank with a suitable solvent and always use caution while cleaning parts. Parts may be dried with compressed air.

1. Scrape any remaining gasket material from the block.

2. Using a wire brush or rotary wheel, remove any rust, corrosion or other debris from the block.

Figure 159 — Checking Flatness of Cylinder Block Deck

3. Clean all other block surfaces with mineral spirits or other suitable solvent.

4. Using due care and caution, clean and dry the block with compressed air.

Inspection

A complete discussion of the proper methods of precision measuring and inspection is outside the scope of this manual. However, every shop should be equipped with standard gauges such as bore gauges, dial indicators, outside and inside micrometers, thickness gauges and straightedges.

Check the cylinder block for indications of cracking or coolant leakage. If any damage is suspected, use a standard dye penetrant or magnaflux procedure to determine if cracks exist.

A cracked engine block must be replaced and never reused.

Refer to Figure 159.

Using a straightedge (PT5027, or equivalent) and thickness gauges, check the cylinder head mounting surfaces for flatness. The cylinder block mounting surface, on a service block, should be flat within 0.002 inch (0.051 mm) per head mounting.

If the cylinder block is determined to be serviceable after thorough cleaning and inspection, reassemble the engine. Use replacement or original parts, as determined during component inspection.

CORE PLUG REPLACEMENT Removal Refer to Figure 160.

1. Using a hammer and punch, drive one edge of the plug inward. The plug should rotate causing the opposite edge to move outward.

When the edge moves out far enough, grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out.

If, after several taps with a hammer, the plug does not rotate and is being driven inward, stop tapping. Drill a hole approximately 1/8 inch (3.2 mm) in diameter in the center of the plug.

Insert a sheet-metal screw in the hole. Leave enough of the screw protruding from the plug to allow a pry bar to be inserted under the head of the screw and pry the plug out.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 2. Clean the plug hole(s) with a wire brush or wire wheel. After cleaning, visually check the surface for cracks. When satisfied that there are no cracks anywhere in the block, replace the plug(s).

161

160

Figure 161 — Cylinder Block Core Plug Installation

PIPE PLUG REPLACEMENT

Any rust around a pipe plug is an indication of a leak and the plug should be replaced.

Removal 1. Using an appropriate wrench, remove the plug.

Figure 160 — Cylinder Block Core Plugs

2. Clean the threads in the block by running a tap into the hole, just far enough to remove any rust on the threads without expanding the diameter of the hole. Use compressed air to remove any chips from the block.

Installation 1. After cleaning the plug hole, apply a thin coat of Loctite® 277 to both the surface of the hole and the outer edge of the plug.

2. Using a proper driver, align the plug in the hole and drive it inward until the outer lip of the plug is flush with the cylinder block.

Refer to Figure 161.

It is best to replace a leaking pipe plug. However, if reusing the same plug, clean thoroughly, paying special attention to the threads.

3. Using a wire wheel, clean the threads of the plug. Visually check the thread surfaces for burrs or damage. Then clean and check the remaining surfaces.

New plugs already have a sealer applied to the threads. Applying a Teflon sealer to the threads will not adversely affect the precoating.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Installation

162

Apply appropriate Teflon thread sealant to the threads and install the plug. Torque to specification. Refer to the Torque Chart in the Specifications section.

When checking or assembling engine components, refer to “FITS AND LIMITS” on page 289 and “TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS” on page 295 for specified dimensions and torque settings.

Figure 162 — Measuring Camshaft Bushing ID

CAMSHAFT BUSHINGS Description Lubrication oil is pumped into the cylinder block main oil gallery. Oil from the gallery flows to each main bearing bushing bore and then on to the respective camshaft bushing bore, providing lubrication for both the crankshaft and camshaft bushings. Camshaft bushing bores No. 1, 2 and 5 are grooved to supply oil to other components as well. Oil from the No. 1 camshaft bushing bore flows on through a drilled passage to lubricate the front auxiliary driveshaft bushing. Oil from the No. 2 and 5 camshaft bushing bores flows on through vertical drilled passages to lubricate the rocker arm assemblies. Oil from the No. 4 camshaft bushing bore flows through a cast groove in the cylinder block bushing bore to lubricate the fuel injection pump, the rear auxiliary driveshaft bushing and the raw water pump.

Inspection

During overhaul, check the inside diameter of the camshaft bushings. Replace camshaft bushings as required.

2. Refer to “FITS AND LIMITS” on page 289 for camshaft bushing measurement specifications. Compare the recorded dimensions with specifications.

3. If bore size exceeds tolerance or if there is any evidence of scratching or scoring, replace the bushings.

Removal Refer to Figure 163.

Use camshaft bushing remover/installer kit J 37713 (use with J 21428-01 kit) for camshaft bushing removal.

Camshaft bushings are identified in sequence from 1 to 7, starting from the front of the engine.

1. Using camshaft bushing remover/installer kit J 21428-01 (2), with the correct pilot adapter (J 37713 kit) and a hammer (3), remove the No. 1 camshaft bushing (4) from the cylinder block (1).

2. Remove the remaining six bushings in sequence.

1. Using a telescope gauge or suitable inside micrometer, measure the ID of each camshaft bushing in the cylinder block.

Record the dimensions. Refer to Figure 162.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Installation

163

Refer to Figure 164.

Each camshaft bushing is located at set distances from the thrust washer mounting surface to the forward edge of the bushings.

Figure 163 — Camshaft Bushing Removal 1. Cylinder Block 2. Camshaft Bushing Remover/Installer Kit J 21428-01

3. Hammer 4. No. 1 Camshaft Bushing

Correct installation of each camshaft bushing is very important. If a bushing is not properly aligned with both its oil supply and oil feed passages in the cylinder block, either the camshaft bushing will fail or the components lubricated by the bushing feed will fail from inadequate lubrication.

164

Figure 164 — Camshaft and Auxiliary Shaft Bushing Locations

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 165

Figure 165 — Camshaft and Auxiliary Shaft Bushing Alignment

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Refer to Figure 166.

1. Position a replacement bushing (2) against the side of the block at the No. 7 (rear) bushing bore. Align the oil hole in the bushing (1) with the oil passage (7) in the block.

2. Using a dark-colored felt-tip marker, mark the block and the bushing with a line (5) to facilitate correct alignment during installation.

3. Clean the surfaces of the bushing and the bore. Dry both surfaces with compressed air.

4. Using bushing remover/installer J 21428-01 kit (4) and the appropriate pilot adapter J 37713 (3), install the bushing.

5. Check the surface of the bushing for burrs caused by installation.

Refer to “FITS AND LIMITS” on page 289 for correct bushing ID dimensions.

Refer to Figure 167.

6. Using an inside micrometer or telescope gauge, measure the ID of the bushing to ensure against an undersize bushing. An undersize bushing may cause the camshaft to seize in the bushing during installation.

167

166

Figure 167 — Camshaft Bushing ID Check

7. Repeat steps 1 through 6 for all of the remaining bushings in sequence.

AUXILIARY DRIVESHAFT BUSHING REPLACEMENT Description

Figure 166 — Camshaft Bushing Installation 1. Bushing Oil Hole 2. Bushing 3. Pilot Adapter J 37713 4. Bushing Remover/ Installer Kit J 21428-01

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5. Alignment Mark 6. Mounting Hole 7. Block Oil Passage

The front and rear auxiliary driveshaft bushings are identical. Engine lubrication oil passing through the No. 1 camshaft bushing supplies oil to the front auxiliary driveshaft bushing. Oil passing through the No. 4 camshaft bushing supplies oil to the rear auxiliary driveshaft bushing. A groove in the rear auxiliary driveshaft journal, in conjunction with a rifle-drilled hole in the auxiliary driveshaft and a small metered oil feed hole inside a cup plug, supplies lubrication oil to the raw water pump.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Inspection 1. Using a telescope gauge or inside micrometer, measure the auxiliary bushing bores. Take two readings, perpendicular to each other, in each bore. Record the readings. Refer to Figure 168.

2. Compare readings with the tolerances listed in “FITS AND LIMITS” on page 289.

168

2. Using a dark-colored felt-tip marker, mark the block and the bushing with a line (1) to facilitate correct alignment during installation.

3. Clean the surfaces of the bushing and the bore. Dry both surfaces with compressed air.

4. Using camshaft bushing remover/installer kit J 21428-01 (4) and the appropriate pilot adapter J 37713 (3), install the bushing.

169

Figure 168 — Auxiliary Driveshaft Bushing ID Check

Installation

Correct installation of auxiliary driveshaft bushings is very important. If bushings are misaligned, lubrication oil will not be allowed to lubricate the auxiliary driveshaft journal. This will also cause the component lubricated through that journal to run without lubrication and prematurely fail.

If the oil feed hole in the oil metering plug at the rear of the auxiliary shaft is plugged up, the raw water pump may fail from oil starvation. Also, the loss of oil pressure that results from a missing plug can cause damage and problems in other components and parts. Make sure the plug is not missing or the metering oil hole is not plugged. If replacing the auxiliary driveshaft, make sure to install a new plug.

Figure 169 — Auxiliary Driveshaft Bushing Alignment 1. Alignment Mark 2. Bushing 3. Pilot Adapter J 37713

4. Camshaft Bushing Remover/Installer Kit J 21428-01

5. Check the bushing surface for burrs caused by installation.

Refer to Figure 169.

1. Position a replacement bushing (2) against the side of the block at the rear bushing bore. Align the oil hole in the bushing with the hole in the block.

Refer to “FITS AND LIMITS” on page 289 for correct bushing ID dimensions.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 6. Using an inside micrometer or telescope gauge, measure the ID of the bushing to ensure against using an undersize bushing.

An undersize bushing may cause the auxiliary driveshaft to seize in the bushing during installation.

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED r

Depth Gauge J 26948

r

Dial Bore Gauge J 5347-B

r

Cylinder Hone and Glaze Breaker J 5902-01

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE The front auxiliary driveshaft bushing must be flush or recessed within 0.020 inch (0.508 mm) of the front of the cylinder block. Incorrect recess will cause misalignment of the oil supply hole, resulting in insufficient lubrication of the journal.

7. Working from the front of the cylinder block, repeat steps 1 through 6 to install the front bushing.

Cylinder Sleeve Installation

Refer to Figure 171.

1. Thoroughly clean and dry the prepared cylinder block (4), counterbore ledge (3) and cylinder sleeves (1). Refer to the cylinder block cleaning and inspection procedures in this section.

2. If the counterbore ledge (3) has been cut, place the shims (2) on the cylinder block counterbore ledge. Use the fewest number of shims required to achieve the proper cylinder sleeve flange height. Always place the thickest shim on the bottom.

GENERAL INFORMATION The cylinder sleeves are a wet-dry design made of centrifugally cast alloyed iron. Working with the pistons, piston rings, cylinder heads and cylinder head gaskets, the sleeves provide a seal against combustion pressure. The sleeves also transfer combustion heat to the engine coolant and guide piston travel. Correct extension of the sleeve flange above the top deck and uniform cylinder block counterbore is essential for satisfactory sleeve service life and head gasket seal.

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If shims are used, apply RTV silicone on top of the shims only. If RTV is applied under the shims, the shims may be displaced when the sleeve is installed 3. Apply approximately a 0.120–0.160-inch (3.048–4.064-mm) bead of RTV silicone (Dow Corning Silastic RTV832) on the cylinder block sleeve seat and completely around the cylinder wall as shown in Figure 170. Do not use excessive amounts of RTV. Do not apply more than a 0.160-inch bead.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 170

Figure 170 — Cylinder Block Sleeve Seat

4. Position the cylinder sleeve (1) in the cylinder bore.

Applying a Silastic® bead is now standard assembly procedure whenever cylinder sleeves are installed.

To prevent partial curing and questionable sealing and bonding, apply Silastic® just before installing the sleeves.

5. With the palms of the hands placed on the upper end of the cylinder sleeve 180 degrees apart, push downward with a quick, even pressure. Then, using a large plastic-faced hammer, tap the sleeve close to the inside diameter to fully seat the sleeve. Tap alternately from one side to the other, gradually working around the entire circumference of the sleeve.

The cylinder block counterbore ledge and the cylinder sleeve must be kept clean and free of any oil residue to ensure that the Silastic® bead seals and bonds properly.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 171

Clean any RTV from around the bottom of the cylinder sleeve and the block which may have been pressed out from the sealing surfaces of the block and sleeve during installation.

6. After the cylinder sleeve is fully seated, use depth gauge J 26948, or equivalent, to check the flange height-above-deck dimensions. The specified dimension is 0.023–0.029 inch (0.584–0.737 mm). The measurement should be taken in the channel between the sleeve top lip (fire dam) and the coining bead. Refer to Figure 172.

Figure 171 — Sleeve Installation 1. Sleeve 2. Shims (as Required)

172

3. Counterbore Ledge 4. Cylinder Block

Figure 172 — Cylinder Sleeve/Fire Ring Configuration

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS HONING THE CYLINDER SLEEVE BORE The height of the cylinder sleeves above the cylinder block deck (under the same cylinder head) can vary as long as all are within the 0.023–0.029-inch (0.584–0.737-mm) specification.

7. Using dial bore gauge J 5347-B, or equivalent, check the cylinder sleeve for outof-round and taper limit (Figure 173). Take readings in two directions, 90 degrees apart, at each of three levels.

Cylinder sleeve ID maximum: 4.877 inches (123.876 mm).

Cylinder sleeve ID minimum: 4.876 inches (123.850 mm). The cylinder sleeve ID may be a minimum 4.872 inches (123.749 mm) at top of sleeve due to close-in from press fit.

173

All MackPower™ engines currently produced have fine precision-finished cylinder sleeves.

Because of the precision finish, honing is NOT recommended. Particles from the honing process which become wedged in the pattern are impossible to completely remove and can cause further damage.

Piston Cooling Spray Nozzle Installation [219 RV] SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED r

Two-Piece Piston Cooling Nozzle Aimer J 39045

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE Refer to Figure 174.

1. Using a liberal amount of lubricant, install the elastomer sleeve (7) on the locator tube (6).

2. Install a retaining screw (4) in the spray nozzle bracket (3).

3. Position the spray nozzle locator tube (6) in the cylinder block oil passage (2) and using torque wrench J 24406, or equivalent, tighten the retaining screw to the specified torque, 15 lb-ft (20 N•m).

Figure 173 — Checking Cylinder Sleeve for Out-of-Round or Taper

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 3. Install a cylinder head bolt through the target alignment hole (3) and into the cylinder block capscrew hole (4) to align the target.

174

4. The rod (6) should now be aligned in the target area (5). If the rod is at the edge of the target area, center the rod in the target area as follows: a.

Loosen the nozzle setscrew. A slight adjustment can then be made to center the rod within the target area.

b.

Following adjustment, tighten the setscrew to the specified torque, 15 lb-ft (20 N•m).

Always replace a badly deformed spray nozzle.

Do not attempt to realign it. Precise targeting is necessary to adequately cool the piston crown.

175

Figure 174 — Spray Nozzle Installation 1. Threaded Hole 2. Oil Passage 3. Spray Nozzle Bracket 4. Retaining Screw

5. Cylinder Block 6. Locator Tube 7. Elastomer Sleeve

PISTON COOLING NOZZLE SPRAY POSITIONING The piston cooling oil spray target location on the underside of the piston is important. It ensures adequate dissipation of heat from the piston.

Correct positioning of the nozzles also ensures that the crankshaft counterweights do not strike the nozzles.

Using piston cooling nozzle spray position set J 39045, check the direction of the spray from the nozzles. Refer to Figure 175.

1. Position rod (6) in the end of the spray nozzle (7).

2. Place the applicable plastic target (1) on the cylinder block (2) over the cylinder to be tested.

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Figure 175 — Spray Nozzle Targeting 1. Plastic Target 2. Cylinder Block 3. Alignment Hole 4. Cylinder Block Hole

5. Target Area 6. Rod 7. Spray Nozzle

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Cylinder Block Dowel Pins SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED r

Flywheel Housing/Timing Cover Locating Pin Driver J 37712

3. Using a hammer, drive the pin into the block until the driver contacts the cylinder block.

When the driver has made contact with the block, the dowel pin will be at the correct dimension above the block.

176

REMOVAL If it is necessary to remove the timing cover or flywheel housing locating dowel pins, do so as follows: 1. Securely clamp the pin with a pair of visegrip pliers.

2. While exerting an outward force, rotate pin back and forth until the pin works free from the hole.

INSTALLATION Two precision-made dowel pins are used to locate the flywheel housing to the cylinder block.

One dowel is round, the other is a blade type.

The dowels used for timing gear cover installation are similar except for the size. The smaller dowels are used for the timing cover. The larger dowels are used for the flywheel housing.

Round Dowel Pin Installation Refer to Figure 176.

1. Insert round dowel pin (2) into the flywheel housing/timing cover locating pin driver J 37712 (1).

2. Position exposed end of dowel into the left dowel pin hole in the rear face of the cylinder block and in the upper left dowel pin hole on the front face of cylinder block.

Figure 176 — Round Dowel Pin Installation 1. Locating Pin Driver 2. Round Dowel Pin

3. Cylinder Block 4. Dowel Pin Hole

Blade-Type Dowel Pin Installation 1. Position the round end of the blade-type dowel pin into the right dowel pin hole in the rear face of the cylinder block. The blade of this pin must be aligned vertically with the block.

2. Position the round end of the blade-type dowel pin into the lower right pin hole in the front face of the cylinder block. The blade of this pin must be positioned approximately 39 degrees outboard relative to the vertical center line of the block.

3. Using a hammer, drive the dowel pin into the block until the shoulder of the pin is flush with the cylinder block surface.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS AUXILIARY DRIVESHAFT AND CAMSHAFT INSPECTION

AUXILIARY SHAFT OIL METERING PLUG INSTALLATION

Auxiliary Driveshaft INSPECTION 1. Thoroughly clean auxiliary driveshaft.

2. Inspect auxiliary driveshaft journals and gear teeth for evidence of cracks, pitting, scoring or severe wear. If any of these conditions exist, replace the auxiliary driveshaft.

3. Inspect the rifle-drilled oil hole in the rear bushing area of the auxiliary driveshaft to make sure it is free and clear of debris or other contamination.

Replacement of the oil metering plug is not normally necessary unless the auxiliary shaft requires replacement. When installing a new auxiliary shaft for the Marine M-E7 engine, an oil metering plug must be installed as outlined in the next steps.

1. Apply Loctite® 277, or equivalent, to the outer surface of the oil metering cup plug.

2. Position oil metering plug on a suitable driving tool.

178

4. Inspect the rear end of the auxiliary driveshaft to make sure the oil metering plug is in place and that the metering oil hole in the plug is free and clear of debris or other contamination. If the plug is damaged in any way, or missing, replace or install a new plug.

If the oil feed hole in the oil metering plug at the rear of the auxiliary shaft is plugged up, the raw water pump may fail from oil starvation. Also, the loss of oil pressure that results from a missing plug can cause damage and problems in other components and parts. Make sure the plug is not missing or the metering oil hole is not plugged. If replacing the auxiliary driveshaft, make sure to install a new plug.

177

Figure 178 — Positioning Plug

3. Position the plug and installation tool squarely with the shaft bore.

179

Figure 177 — Auxiliary Driveshaft Oil Metering Plug 1. Correctly Installed Oil Metering Plug

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Figure 179 — Positioning Plug and Tool

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 4. Drive the oil metering plug into the rear end of the auxiliary shaft to a depth of approximately 0.33 inch (8.38 mm) as measured from the lip side of the plug. The final installation depth of the oil metering plug should be no more than 0.5 inch (12.7 mm) as measured from the inner face of the plug as shown in Figure 180.

180

1. Position two adequate steel plates on the press to support camshaft gears. The plates should have a 2-1/2 inch (63.5 mm) hole cut out in the center when placed side by side, or similar size V-grooves, to allow clearance for the shaft journals and greater support for the gears.

2. Set camshaft, supported by the gears, into the press.

3. Using a suitable arbor, press camshaft out of camshaft gear and fuel injection pump drive gear.

Make sure there is enough clearance between the end of the camshaft and the floor while removing the gears. Do not let camshaft fall or strike the floor when pressed from the gears. The camshaft can be bent easily, and the bend may go unnoticed. Installing a bent camshaft in the engine could result in cam bushing failure.

Figure 180 — Oil Metering Plug Installation Depth

4. Remove the thrust washer.

181

Camshaft DESCRIPTION The gear-driven carbon steel M-E7 camshaft, with its large journal bearing diameter of 2.689 inches (68.301 mm), provides excellent bearing unit loading and allows the use of large, durable camshaft lobes. M-E7 engine camshaft gears are pressed onto the camshaft.

DISASSEMBLY An extremely tight interference fit holds the cam gears onto the camshaft. Ten tons of force are required to remove the gears. When cam gear installation or removal is required, use the following procedures.

A considerable amount of force may be necessary to remove damaged or spun gears.

DO NOT apply more than 25 tons (22.7 metric tons) of force to gears. Doing so may shatter the gears and result in severe personal injury.

Figure 181 — Camshaft Gear and Fuel Injection Pump Gear Removal

Refer to Figure 181.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS INSPECTION

ASSEMBLY

Refer to Figure 182.

Two methods can be used to assemble camshaft gears onto a camshaft.

1. Thoroughly clean camshaft (3).

Use magnaflux (PT7190) inspection procedure to detect cracks.

2. Inspect camshaft lobes and journals for evidence of cracks, pitting, scoring or severe wear. If any of these conditions exist, replace camshaft.

3. Inspect camshaft gear (1), injection pump driving gear (5), and camshaft captured thrust washer (2) for cracks, pitting, scoring or adverse wear.

4. Visually inspect key (4) for signs of distortion or breakage.

r

Use the heat method to install new gears on a new camshaft.

r

Use the press method if reusing any service parts. Do not use heat method on used parts.

Camshaft/Injection Pump Driving Gear Installation — Heat Method Refer to Figure 182.

1. Thoroughly clean camshaft (3) and gears (1 and 5) using a contact-type cleaner that dries rapidly and leaves no residue.

2. Insert key (4) into camshaft (3). It may be necessary to tap key with a rubber mallet to ensure proper seating of key.

3. Install a new camshaft captured thrust washer (2) on camshaft.

182

Figure 182 — Camshaft Components 1. Camshaft Gear 2. Camshaft Captured Thrust Washer 3. Camshaft

Page 142

4. Key 5. Injection Pump Driving Gear

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

Wear protective gloves when handling heated gears.

Refer to Figure 183.

4. Using an oven (not a torch), heat new camshaft gear and new injection pump driving gear to 400°F (205°C). Do not exceed 400°F (205°C) and do not heat for more than one to two hours. Do not exceed two hours. Position camshaft gear with timing marks facing out, and align keyway with key.

183

7. Install injection pump driving gear (5) by applying a quick, even pressure until gear bottoms onto camshaft gear. Make sure camshaft thrust washer holes are accessible through injection pump driving gear.

Camshaft/Injection Pump Driving Gear Installation — Press Method Refer to Figure 182.

1. Thoroughly clean and degrease camshaft (3) and camshaft drive gear (1) with a suitable contact cleaner that dries rapidly and leaves no residue.

2. Install a new key (4) in camshaft key slot.

3. Place camshaft in a press, making sure camshaft is supported by plates between journal and first lobe.

Approximately 5 tons (4.54 MT) of force is required to press each gear onto the camshaft.

When in the press, use suitable plates to support the camshaft between the journal and first lobe.

Do not allow camshaft to rest on the floor.

4. Position a new thrust washer (2) on the camshaft.

Figure 183 — Camshaft Gear Installation (Heat Method)

5. Push downward with a quick, even pressure to install camshaft gear onto camshaft.

The heat-expanded gear bore will begin to transfer heat to the camshaft as soon as the gear bore and camshaft contact each other. This makes it absolutely necessary that the gear be installed in one very rapid motion to the fully seated position. If the gear is allowed to stop on the camshaft part way before fully seating, it will become immovable. If this occurs, do not pressinstall the gear. It should be press removed, allowed to cool, and re-installed using the press method.

5. Prepare the gear bore with Locquic™ Primer T, or equivalent.

6. Apply a bead of Loctite® 609, or equivalent, to the gear bore.

7. Using a clean brush, spread Loctite 609 evenly onto the entire surface of the gear bore.

Refer to Figure 184.

8. Position gear on camshaft with timing marks facing upward and key slot in gear aligned with key in shaft.

Do not attempt to increase clearance between camshaft and gears by sanding gear bores or camshaft.

6. There should be between 0.003–0.013 inch (0.076–0.330 mm) clearance between rear face of gear and thrust washer when measured with thickness gauge.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 12. Prepare the gear bore surface with Locquic™ Primer T, or equivalent.

184

13. Apply a bead of Loctite 609, or equivalent, to the gear bore.

14. Using a clean brush, spread Loctite 609 evenly on the entire surface of the gear bore.

15. Position gear onto camshaft.

Figure 184 — Camshaft Gear Installation

9. Using a suitable press cup, press the gear onto the shaft until it is fully seated. The pressure gauge on the press should read approximately 5 tons (4.54 MT) as the gear is being pressed on. As the gear seats, allow the pressure to climb to, but not exceed, 10 tons (9.1 MT). This will ensure that gear is seated firmly on shaft.

16. Using a suitable press cup, press the gear onto the shaft until it is fully seated. The pressure gauge on the press should read approximately 5 tons (4.54 MT) as the gear is being pressed on. As the gear seats, allow the pressure to increase to, but not exceed, 10 tons (9.1 MT). This ensures that gear is seated firmly on shaft. The gear should be flush with the end of the shaft when fully seated.

185

10. When gear is properly seated, clearance between rear face of gear and thrust washer should be between 0.003–0.013 inch (0.076–0.330 mm).

11. Thoroughly clean and degrease injection pump driving gear with a suitable contact cleaner that dries rapidly and leaves no residue.

Figure 185 — Fuel Injection Pump Driving Gear Installation

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION Description The crankshaft is fully counterbalanced and journals are induction-hardened. There are seven main bearings. Thrust washers located at the center main bearing (position No. 4) absorb fore and aft end thrust. Crankshaft extension at forward end carries the main drive gear, vibration damper and accessory drive pulleys. The main drive gear has a shrink fit and the vibration damper hub has a press fit. The main drive gear is keyed to the crankshaft and proper assembly is important for engine timing. The flywheel is mounted to a flange at rear of crankshaft. Two seals, one at the front and one at the rear, prevent engine lubricating oil from leaking around ends of the crankshaft.

Bearing caps are furnished with the crankcase and support the crankshaft in true alignment.

Webs integral to the crankcase provide upper half of main bearing supports. Removable caps provide lower support. Capscrews hold the caps in position. The bearing caps are not interchangeable and each has a number stamped on it which signifies its correct location and alignment in the crankcase. The caps are numbered 1 through 7, with No. 1 main bearing cap in front of engine. The bearing inserts are precision-designed. Bearings are inserted between the crankshaft and crankcase, and between the crankshaft and bearing caps. Thrust flanges to support thrust washers are located at the center main bearing (No. 4).

Extreme care must be taken to guarantee cleanliness of crankcase, crankshaft, and bearings during servicing and after service has been completed. Whenever possible, crankshaft should be removed when bearings are being installed in order to clean crankcase thoroughly.

All bearing surfaces must be free of grit and burrs. Small particles of dust and dirt left between crankshaft and bearings will cause rapid wear and scoring of crankshaft journal and inserts. Any foreign material left between bearings and crankshaft bearing caps will cause distortion of bearing and a reduction in operating clearance at that point. The resulting frictional heat will cause bearing material to melt away from steel backing of bearing at that point. Such melted material will create further hot spots until complete bearing failure occurs. Anything that interferes with operating clearance of any bearing, or proper heat dissipation, affects bearing life. Cleanliness cannot be overstressed.

Inspection

If crankshaft journals are worn, out of round, or tapered, order a new crankshaft or exchange kit through the MACK parts system. New and exchange crankshafts are available through MACK distribution centers.

1. Inspect crankshaft journals for straightness, out-of-round, taper, and surface finish.

2. Visually check crankshaft for any apparent cracks, worn journals and damage to threads, dowel or main drive gear.

3. Magnaflux the crankshaft. This process requires special equipment and application methods.

4. Using standard machinist inspection practice, check crankshaft for straightness.

5. Measure crankshaft journals with a micrometer. Measure each journal in two locations, 90 degrees apart, and record measurements.

6. Check measurements against specifications in “FITS AND LIMITS” on page 289.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS REMOVAL Crankshaft regrinding by anyone other than Mack Trucks, Inc. is NOT recommended due to the tight control required on maintaining geometrical tolerances, and the hardened characteristics of the crankshaft journals and journal fillets.

If the crankshaft is not serviceable, both new and reground crankshafts are available through the MACK Parts Distribution Centers.

If crankshaft main journals or rod journals are not a standard size, be sure to use properly sized bearing inserts. Bearing inserts are marked with a “P” which follows the part number, and is stamped on the back side of the bearing insert.

For example, if a journal is 0.010 inch (0.254 mm) undersize, a 0.010-inch undersize bearing is required and will be stamped “P10.”

Some crankshafts may have journals which are 0.002 inch (0.0508 mm) undersize. They are marked by a streak of white paint adjacent to the journal. Always check journals to ensure using proper size bearing inserts.

Crankshaft Wear Ring Installation When the service oil seal is to be replaced and the crankshaft flange is worn, the crankshaft can be salvaged by installing a crankshaft wear ring.

An oil seal with a larger inside diameter is used with this wear ring.

A limited number of crankshafts were manufactured with a repair sleeve installed on the flange. The repair sleeve is usually not noticeable and is finish ground to standard flange size. If the repair sleeve is damaged or becomes loose, the crankshaft must be replaced.

Special care must be taken not to damage the crankshaft flange during wear ring removal.

Refer to Figure 186.

1. The wear ring can be removed by carefully applying heat, using a ball-peen hammer to expand the diameter, or by using a chisel to split the wear ring. Use extreme care not to damage the crankshaft flange.

Place the chisel face squarely on the wear ring and carefully strike the chisel with a hammer to cut part-way through the ring. The wear ring will loosen enough to be removed without cutting completely through it. The goal is to carefully remove the wear ring in this manner and not cut, nick or damage the crankshaft flange.

2. Thoroughly clean the flange area of the crankshaft. Check for nicks or scratches and repair any damaged areas with crocus cloth as necessary.

186

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED r

Crankshaft Rear Seal Installer J 37716-A

r

Wear Ring Installer J 38880

r

Universal Driver Handle J 8092

Figure 186 — Crankshaft Wear Ring Removal

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 187.

1. Position the wear ring in the spring clips of the wear ring installer J 38880 with the arrow pointing away from the installer tool. Refer to Figure 188.

188

On some wear rings it may be difficult to determine the direction of the arrow on the inside diameter. In this case, ensure proper installation by installing the wear ring with the chamfer on the inside diameter toward the engine. The chamfer on the outside diameter of the wear ring must face away from the engine.

The crankshaft wear ring is a shrink fit on the crankshaft flange. Use wear ring installer J 38880 and universal driver handle J 8092 to install the ring to the proper depth.

187

Figure 188 — Crankshaft Wear Ring Installation

2. Heat the wear ring and wear ring installer together in a temperature-controlled oven or on a hotplate, with the wear ring on the bottom and installed in the spring clips of the installer. Work as close as possible to the engine to avoid heat loss after heating the ring. Heat to 400°F (205°C). Do not install the driver handle at this time. This allows the wear ring to maintain sufficient heat until it is fully installed on the flange.

Do not heat the wear ring with a torch. This type of heat source will not heat the ring evenly.

Figure 187 — Proper Crankshaft Wear Ring Installation

3. Thoroughly clean and dry the crankshaft oil seal mounting flange.

4. After the wear ring is sufficiently heated, use heat-resistant gloves to install the universal driver handle J 8092 into the threaded hole in the center of the installation tool.

5. Remove the wear ring and installation tool from the oven or hot plate and immediately place in position on the crankshaft flange.

Push the wear ring onto the flange until the installation tool is fully seated against the end of the flange. As the wear ring cools, it will shrink-fit onto the crankshaft flange.

6. Allow the wear ring to cool completely. Then remove the installation tool.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Crankshaft Dowel Pin Replacement

Crankshaft Gear

The flywheel locating dowel hole, located directly opposite the manufacturing locator hole, is approximately 9/16 inch (14.29 mm) in diameter by 7/8 inch (22.23 mm) deep.

INSPECTION After inspecting the crankshaft and determining that it is serviceable, inspect crankshaft gear for cracks and broken, worn or chipped teeth. If crankshaft gear is defective, it must be replaced.

DOWEL PIN REMOVAL To remove rear crankshaft dowel pin: 1. Using vise grips, securely grip dowel pin.

2. Rotate dowel pin back and forth while exerting outward pressure until pin is removed.

DOWEL PIN INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 189.

To install a replacement crankshaft dowel pin: 1. Position dowel pin in a 0.5562-inch (14.1275 mm) diameter unthreaded hole in rear of crankshaft. The pin must be installed with the flat surface aligned parallel to the center of crankshaft, as shown in Figure 189.

2. Use a suitable tool to drive the pin into the hole. The pin must be firmly seated and protrude 0.77 inch (19.56 mm) from the crankshaft.

REPLACEMENT Refer to Figure 190.

1. Using a suitable puller such as J 21834-4A, remove gear and key.

The threads in the end of the crankshaft gear are M8 x 1.25.

2. Clean gear mounting surface. It should be free of grooves, scratches and burrs. Use a file, sandpaper or crocus cloth, as required.

Take care not to damage key slot while installing key.

3. Insert key (4) into key slot (3). Lightly tap key into slot with a soft metal hammer.

189

4. Heat replacement gear (1) to approximately 250°F (121°C) in a temperature-controlled oven or on a hot plate.

Wear protective gloves when handling heated crankshaft gear to prevent burns or personal injury.

Take care not to damage gear teeth while seating gear.

Figure 189 — Dowel Pin Alignment

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 5. Position the gear over end of shaft (2) with timing mark outward, chamfer (6) toward rear of the shaft, and key slot aligned with key in shaft. In one rapid motion, push heated gear against flange (5). When gear is in place, immediately and carefully tap on gear to help seat it against flange.

190

CONNECTING ROD AND PISTON INSPECTION Connecting Rods DESCRIPTION Refer to Figure 191.

The connecting rod assembly has two alignment sleeves (3), one sleeve in each capscrew hole of the rod cap (1) to locate and align the cap and rod thrust faces. These sleeves provide the best alignment when sleeve gaps are positioned at a location approximately 90 degrees to the tongue or groove (2). The sleeve gap must not be in line with the tongue or groove.

191

Figure 191 — Connecting Rod Alignment Sleeves

Figure 190 — Drive Gear Installation 1. Gear 2. Shaft 3. Key Slot

1. Rod Cap 2. Bearing Insert

3. Alignment Sleeve

4. Key 5. Flange 6. Chamfer

The part number is forged into the I-beam of the rod.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS WRIST PIN REPAIR Wrist Pin Bushing Removal It is essential to closely control the weight of reciprocating parts. Connecting rods fall into two weight classes. The weight classes are identified by an “M” number (M1 or M2). The M2 connecting rod is not stamped with this weight designation. The M1 weight class rod is stamped on the rod cap. When installing a single rod, or less than a full set, examine removed rod for part number and M number. Installing parts with the same weight class is preferred.

Connecting rods can be weighed to ensure using proper weight class. Connecting rod weights for each engine, within each weight class, should not vary by more than 0.46 ounce (13.04 grams). The maximum weight difference between the heaviest possible M2 rod and the lightest possible M1 rod is 0.83 ounce (23.53 grams).

If the wrist pin bushing is found to be out of tolerance, it should be replaced.

Refer to Figure 192.

To replace bushing: 1. Position rod in a press with piston pin bushing remover/installer J 37717 inserted into wrist pin bushing.

2. Press bushing out of rod.

192

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED r

Piston Pin Bushing Remover/Installer J 37717

r

Piston Pin Burnishing Broach J 37718

r

Connecting Rod Fixture 945-6041

INSPECTION r

Inspect connecting rods for nicks, cracks, signs of overheating, bends or twisting that can cause rod failure.

r

Inspect bolt holes for elongation or pulled threads.

r

Check mating surfaces between rod and cap for correct fit.

r

Inspect the crankshaft journal bearing surface and wrist pin bushing.

If any of the above parts are suspected of being faulty, replace the connecting rod.

If it is determined that the condition of any part or component is questionable or is at the limit of tolerance, throw it out; it may fail or become out of tolerance after a short time in operation. It is costefficient to replace components when rebuilding.

Always use genuine MACK replacement parts.

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Figure 192 — Wrist Pin Bushing Removal

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Wrist Pin Bushing Installation

4. Using a suitable lubricant, press broach through bushing to expand bushing.

Refer to Figure 194.

The wrist pin bushing has a lubrication hole through it. This hole MUST be aligned with rifledrilled hole in rod to allow oil flow to wrist pin. If holes are not aligned, wrist pin, piston, and connecting rod failure will result.

1. Position rod, bushing and piston pin bushing remover/installer J 37717 in press, and press bushing into rod.

5. After machining bushing, check connecting rod for twisting or bending. Use Sweeney connecting rod fixture 945-6041. Accessory mandrel and plunger extension assemblies for various engines are required for use with this fixture, and are also available from the Sweeney Company.

194

2. Align hole in bushing with rifle-drilled hole in rod.

Make certain that bushing is fully expanded in the connecting rod bore or it will loosen in service.

Refer to Figure 193.

3. Position rod assembly in press with piston pin burnishing broach J 37718.

193

Figure 194 — Connecting Rod Fixture

Maximum twist of connecting rod within 10.4375 inches (26.51 cm) is 0.011 inch (0.279 mm). The maximum bend of connecting rod within 10.4375 inches (26.51 cm) is 0.007 inch (0.179 mm). Distances are center to center.

Figure 193 — Burnishing Wrist Pin Bushing

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Pistons

DISASSEMBLY

DESCRIPTION

Refer to Figure 195.

A two-piece piston is required to aid in particulates control. To ensure a high level of durability, the piston crown is made from forged steel and the piston skirt is made of cast aluminum. The piston pin bore pedestal and piston skirt are stamped FRONT, and must be facing front of engine.

1. Using piston ring expander PT6587, remove piston rings.

195

A radius is cut in lower edge of piston skirt to provide clearance for piston cooling nozzle. The piston must be installed with the word FRONT facing front of engine.

The two-piece piston design incorporates two compression ring grooves and one oil ring groove. A plasma-faced, keystone-type ring is used in the top ring location. A tapered chrome, rectangular-type ring is used in the second ring groove. The oil control ring is located in the third (or lower) groove, nearest the piston pin bore.

Piston rings are designed to improve oil control, especially relating to particulates control.

Piston crowns have no oil drainback holes. They have been replaced by an oil accumulator relief.

The relief is machined into the lower half of the third ring land face, 360 degrees around the piston circumference.

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED r

Piston Ring Expander PT6587

r

Keystone Ring Groove Gauge J 29510

Figure 195 — Piston Ring Removal

2. Thoroughly clean ring grooves and combustion bowl area. All carbon must be removed. Carbon left in grooves will reduce ring clearance and prevent replacement rings from seating properly.

Be sure that cleaning solvent is approved for steel/aluminum. Incompatible solvent may cause damage to pistons or skirts.

3. Clean pistons with approved solution and a brass brush. Take care to avoid damaging pistons while cleaning.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS INSPECTION

KEYSTONE RING GROOVE CHECK

Inspect piston ring grooves, lands, piston skirt and combustion bowl for wear, scuffing, cracks or blow-by. Pistons are NOT repairable. Discard piston if it is damaged.

Refer to Figure 196.

Keystone piston-ring groove gauge J 29510 consists of two 0.120-inch (3.048 mm) diameter pins (1) connected at ends by two springs (2).

196

Do not stamp or engrave on TOP of piston. Doing so reduces piston life.

To ensure that pistons are reinstalled in the same cylinders as removed, tag the piston with the corresponding cylinder number.

Piston Rings

Before installing piston rings, check keystone ring groove wear and ring end gap.

1. Place a piston ring in the piston sleeve.

Push it down into the sleeve with an inverted piston to ensure that it is positioned squarely in sleeve.

2. Using thickness gauges, check ring end gap. Refer to “FITS AND LIMITS” on page 289 for end gap specifications. All rings to be used should be checked in this manner.

Figure 196 — Ring Groove Gauge

Do not file or grind chrome-plated piston rings.

This may cause chrome to flake, resulting in ring failure.

1. Pins

2. Springs

1. Place pins of keystone piston-ring groove gauge J 29510 opposite each other in groove to be measured, so they will be held in position by springs.

Refer to Figure 197.

2. Using a four- to five-inch micrometer, measure distance between outer edges of two parallel pins. Check each compression ring groove in two locations: parallel and perpendicular to wrist pin bore. Record both measurements.

3. Compare readings with specifications in “FITS AND LIMITS” on page 289.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 6. Perform step 5 on each piston.

197

198

Figure 198 — Side Clearance Measurement

Figure 197 — Ring Groove Wear Measurement

4. Perform steps 1, 2 and 3 on each piston.

Refer to Figure 198.

5. Check oil control ring. a.

Using a thickness gauge, check for excessive wear of oil control ring groove side clearance (1). Position a new oil control ring in groove and insert a thickness gauge between ring and upper land of groove.

b.

Record measurement and compare reading with “FITS AND LIMITS” on page 289 to see if it is within tolerance.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS RING INSTALLATION

Identification markings on rings should face top of piston. The keystone ring goes in the top ring groove.

Refer to Figure 200.

2. Stagger piston rings so that no ring gap is directly over wrist pin bore, and no ring end gaps are aligned over each other.

200

Follow the directions on each piston ring packet.

Refer to Figure 199.

1. To prevent distortion, use the proper size piston ring expander (PT6587) to place rings in piston grooves.

199

Figure 200 — Ring Gap Locations

Figure 199 — Piston Ring Expander PT6587

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Assembling Connecting Rod to Piston Refer to Figure 201.

3. Using a generous amount of clean engine oil, push piston wrist pin into piston wrist pin bore, aligning two piston sections and connecting rod.

1. Install a retaining snap ring in one of the piston pin retaining grooves.

4. Secure pin in position by inserting a snap ring in remaining piston snap ring groove.

2. Position connecting rod in piston assembly.

Make sure that the side of the rod marked FRONT is facing forward. Ensure that twopiece piston identification marks and connecting rod identification marks indicate that piston and rod are matched. They must be returned to same cylinder from which they were removed.

5. Place the assembled piston in a clean location until it is needed for installation into sleeve.

The piston crown, skirt and rod are marked FRONT. Be sure that rod, piston crown and skirt are properly aligned.

201

Figure 201 — Piston Markings

Page 156

6. Perform steps 1 through 5 on remaining pistons.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CYLINDER HEAD OVERHAUL Cylinder Heads DESCRIPTION Refer to Figure 202.

The cast iron cylinder head is constructed using a special iron alloy. The head contains cored inlet, exhaust and coolant passages, drilled oil

passages, replaceable inlet and exhaust guides and seats, various drilled passages and tapped holes. Each cylinder head covers three cylinders and has two inlet and two exhaust valves per cylinder. Circular grooves correspond with the fire ring bead on cylinder sleeves. This design sets the fire ring over the liner, the lip and into groove of the cylinder head while providing a positive combustion pressure seal. Use a rotary brasswire brush to clean the circular groove.

202

Figure 202 — M-E7 Cylinder Head

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED

r

Collet PT6390-4

r

Valve Spring Keeper Remover J 29294-B

r

Valve Seat Insert Counterbore HT77136

r

Fire Ring Groove Cutter J 29600-C

r

Valve Insert Installer Set J 38586

r

M-E7 Cutter Head J 37719

r

Driver Handle J 8092

r

Depth Gauge J 26948

r

Prussian Blue

r

Valve Guide Remover J 37482

r

r

Valve Guide Installer J 37809

Model MST 50 Universal Spring Tester J 22738-02

r

Valve Guide Reamer J 37481

r

Injection Nozzle Sleeve Extractor J 29880

r

Valve Seat Extractor Kit PT6391

r

Basic Heavy-Duty Dowelout Kit PT6575

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS r

Dowelout, Extractor (7/16 inch) PT6570-11

r

Torque Wrench J 24407

r

Slide Hammer J 2619-01

r

Valve Yoke Guide Pin Installer J 29296

r

Injection Nozzle Sleeve Installer J 29297

r

Cylinder Head Core Plug Installer (13/16-inch cup plugs) J 34684

r

Cylinder Head Core Plug Installer (1-1/16 inch cup plugs) J 34687

r

Valve Seal Installer J 42453

r

Valve Stem Seal Remover J 39460

203

INLET AND EXHAUST VALVE REMOVAL Refer to Figure 203.

1. Attach valve spring keeper remover J 29294-B to cylinder head.

2. Rest tool compression forks (4) on top of upper washer (3) and center forks above valve.

3. Depress tool handle until valve spring is compressed. Remove valve spring washer keys (2) using a magnet (1).

Valve spring keeper remover J 29294-B must be repositioned for each series of valves (two inlet and two exhaust, per cylinder). Drilled and tapped holes are provided for each cylinder.

Page 158

Figure 203 — Valve Spring Keeper Removal 1. Magnet 2. Valve Spring Washer Keys

3. Upper Washer 4. Tool Compression Forks J 29294-B

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Valve Stem Seals

To improve seal-to-guide retention, the valve guides have three sharp ridges machined into the upper outside diameter surface (refer to Figure 204).

Refer to Figure 204.

The valve stem seal for the M-E7 engine uses a steel retainer band around the top of the seal lip.

204

Figure 204 — Valve Stem Seal

Refer to Figure 205.

1. With valve spring keepers (1) removed, remove upper washer (2), valve spring (3), oil seal (4), lower washer (Roto-Coil) (5) and valve (6).

After removing the valve springs, removal of the existing valve stem seals can be accomplished easily and quickly by using the J 39460 Valve Stem Seal Removal tool. Failure to use this tool can make seal removal difficult, and also can result in damage to the outside diameter of the valve guides.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS FIRE RING GROOVE

205

Description Fire ring grooves are located in the machined flat surface of the cylinder head that mates with the engine block. These grooves correspond with the fire ring machined lip on cylinder liner. This design provides a locking groove for the fire ring to seat as well as a positive-combustion pressure seal.

After resurfacing the cylinder head deck, it is necessary to reestablish the fire ring groove depth using fire ring groove cutter J 29600-C. 206

Figure 205 — Valve Assembly 1. Valve Spring Keepers 2. Upper Washer 3. Valve Spring 4. Oil Seal

5. Lower Washer (Roto-Coil) 6. Valve

CYLINDER HEAD INSPECTION

Pressure Test — It is recommended that cylinder heads be pressurized and checked for internal cracks and leaks. Refer to Cylinder Head and Cylinder Block Leak Test procedures in the Troubleshooting section.

Check cylinder head deck surface for warping, pitting or other imperfections. Deck surface flatness for a new head must not vary more than 0.0035 inch (0.0889 mm). Resurface or replace as necessary.

When resurfacing, remove a minimum amount of material from deck to obtain a flat, uniform surface. Standard head height is 6.397–6.391 inches (162.483–162.310 mm). A maximum of 0.010 inch (0.254 mm) of material may be removed, making the minimum height of a resurfaced head 6.381 inches (162.077 mm).

When the deck is resurfaced, fire ring groove and valve seat insert dimensions must be reestablished. Correct dimensions are shown in this section.

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Figure 206 — Fire Ring Groove Cutter J 29600-C 1. Alignment Fixture 2. Hold-Down Capscrews 3. Spacers 4. Washers

5. Cutter Head (J 37719) 6. Wing Nuts 7. Thickness Gauges 8. Cutter Base

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Fire Ring Groove Cutting Procedure

208

Refer to Figure 207.

1. Place cutter base (1) on cylinder head (2).

Insert hold-down capscrews into appropriate mounting holes (per application) until holddown capscrews bottom out in mounting holes.

207

Figure 207 — Cutter Base Alignment 1. Cutter Base

2. Cylinder Head

Refer to Figure 208.

2. Position cylinder head so threaded section of hold-down capscrews can be reached.

Install spacer (3), washer (2) and wing nut (1). Lightly tighten wing nut.

The cutter base must be free to move.

Figure 208 — Fastening Cutter Base 1. Wing Nut 2. Washer

3. Spacer

Refer to Figure 209.

3. Place alignment fixture (1) over the cutter base (2) to ensure proper positioning. With fixture in place, tighten wing nuts on holddown capscrews. Remove alignment fixture.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS b.

209

If fire ring groove (3) is not visible, insert two 0.008-inch thickness gauges (2) between cutter head (1) and cutter base (4).

5. Adjust cutter head J 37719 until it bottoms out on deck surface of existing fire ring groove. Tighten cutter head in this position and remove the two thickness gauges.

210

Figure 209 — Alignment Fixture Placement 1. Alignment Fixture

2. Cutter Base

Refer to Figure 210.

The desired finished fire ring groove depth is 0.008 inch (0.203 mm).

4. Install cutter head J 37719 (1) on cutter base (4). a.

Page 162

If fire ring groove (3) is visible, check existing fire ring groove depth dimension with depth gauge J 26948.

The difference between 0.008 inch and the actual remaining depth of fire ring groove is the amount to cut. Insert two appropriate thickness gauges (2) between cutter head (1) and cutter base (4).

Figure 210 — Setting Cutter Depth 1. Cutter Head (J 37719) 2. Thickness Gauges

3. Fire Ring Groove 4. Cutter Base

Refer to Figure 211.

6. Install a socket (1) and T-handle (2) on cutter head (3). Using T-handle, rotate cutter head in a clockwise direction only, applying an even downward pressure to cut fire ring groove.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS VALVE GUIDES

211

Inlet and Exhaust Valve Guide Dimensions Refer to Figure 212. r

Valve guide ID (3) — 0.3745–0.3755 inch (9.512–9.538 mm)

r

Top end of guide to valve spring seat (4) — 0.959 ± 0.040 inch (24.36 ± 1.016 mm)

r

Valve guide extension, fire deck to top of guide (5) — 5.24 ± 0.03 inch (133.096 ± 0.762 mm)

r

Valve guide bore in head (6) — 0.686–0.687 inch (17.424–17.450 mm)

r

Valve guide OD (7) — 0.6881–0.6886 inch (17.478–17.490 mm)

212

Figure 211 — Cutting Ring Groove 1. Socket 2. T-Handle

3. Cutter Head J 37719

7. After groove is cut, remove cutter head and cutter base from cylinder head.

8. Use a honing stone to remove any burrs around fire ring groove.

9. Check fire ring groove depth with depth gauge J 26948 to verify that groove depth meets specification. If groove depth does not meet specification, recut as necessary.

10. Repeat above procedure with each fire ring groove cut.

Figure 212 — Valve Guide Dimensions

To ensure proper groove depth, always adjust cutting tool height when cutting next groove.

1. Exhaust Valve Guide 2. Inlet Valve Guide 3. Valve Guide ID 4. Top End of Guide to Valve Spring Seat

5. Valve Guide Extension, Fire Deck to Top of Guide 6. Valve Guide Bore in Head 7. Valve Guide OD

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Inspection

Refer to Figure 214.

3. Use a depth gauge to check valve guide extension.

214

Worn valve guides may result in poor valve-toseat contact, valve damage or oil consumption.

1. Inspect valve guides for wear, damage, cracks and looseness.

Refer to Figure 213.

2. Use a small bore gauge (1) to obtain an accurate valve guide bore (2) measurement.

213

Figure 214 — Checking Valve Guide Extension

When reconditioning the cylinder head, it is recommended that all valve guides be replaced.

Figure 213 — Measuring Valve Guide Bore 1. Bore Gauge

Page 164

2. Valve Guide Bore

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Valve Guide Installation

Valve Guide Removal

1. Insert new valve guide into valve guide installer J 37809.

Clean exhaust valve guide OD (shoulder) before removal. Use a rotary brush to prevent scoring of exhaust valve guide bore.

2. Oil OD of new guide before installation.

3. Press the valve guide into top of cylinder head using tool J 37809.

Refer to Figure 216.

Refer to Figure 215.

1. Insert valve guide remover J 37482 (1) into valve guide from deck side of the cylinder head (2).

4. Using depth gauge, check extension of valve guide from valve spring seat to top end of the guide.

216

215

Figure 216 — Checking Valve Guide Extension

Figure 215 — Valve Guide Remover J 37482 1. Valve Guide Remover J 37482

2. Cylinder Head

2. Press out old valve guides from cylinder head.

3. Check valve guide bore in the cylinder head for wear, cracks or other damage. Clean surfaces thoroughly and check ID measurement.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS INLET AND EXHAUST VALVE SEAT INSERTS

Refer to Figure 217.

5. Using valve guide reamer J 37481 (1), ream new valve guide (2) to dimension.

Valve Seat Insert Dimensions Refer to Figure 218.

217

r

r

r

Valve seat (3) insert face angle (1) —

Inlet: 20° 30′ ± 15′

—

Exhaust: 30° 15′ ± 15′

Valve seat insert diameter (2) —

Inlet: 1.831–1.832 inches (46.507–46.533 mm)

—

Exhaust: 1.692–1.693 inches (42.977–43.002 mm)

Valve seat width (4) — 0.066 ± 0.015 inch (1.676 ± 0.381 mm)

218

Figure 217 — Reaming Valve Guide 1. Valve Guide Reamer J 37481

2. Valve Guide

6. Thoroughly clean all metal debris from valve guide and surrounding area.

7. Install valves in cylinder head and check for binding, looseness and other conditions that may result in premature valve or valve guide failure.

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Figure 218 — Valve Seat Insert Dimensions 1. Valve Seat Insert Face Angle 2. Valve Seat Insert Diameter

3. Valve Seat 4. Valve Seat Width

Inspection Visually inspect valve seat inserts for looseness, cracks or other conditions that may result in improper operation. Replace as necessary.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Valve Seat Insert Removal Refer to Figure 219.

Valve seat extractor kit PT6391 and collet PT6390-4 are used to remove inlet and exhaust seat inserts.

Collet PT6390-4 is not included in basic kit PT6391.

219

Figure 219 — Valve Seat Extractor Kit PT6391 1. Grinding Wheels 2. T-Handle and Shaft Assembly 3. Collet 4. Allen Wrench 5. Lifting Bridge

6. Grinder Base 7. Grinder 8. Wrenches 9. Dressing Stone

Refer to Figure 220.

1. Using depth measurement tool (1), measure distance from cylinder head surface (2) to point on insert where groove will be ground.

This point should be approximately 0.060 inch (1.524 mm) below any angular face on valve seat insert.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 220

Use care not to damage any machined surface of the cylinder head.

5. Attach collet to T-handle and shaft assembly.

6. Position collet in valve seat insert so ridge of collet will be inside groove. Turn T-handle to fully expand collet.

Refer to Figure 222.

Figure 220 — Valve Insert Depth Measurement 1. Depth Measurement Tool

2. Cylinder Head Surface

7. Position lifting bridge (3) under crank handle (2). Turn crank handle clockwise to remove insert.

8. Release insert from collet (4) by slightly turning T-handle (1).

222

Refer to Figure 221.

2. Install grinding wheel (2) into grinder (4) and set depth of grinder base (1) to dimension found in preceding step.

3. Secure base to grinder by tightening hex-head screw (3).

221

Figure 221 — Setting Depth of Grinder 1. Grinder Base 2. Grinding Wheel

3. Hex-Head Screw 4. Grinder

4. Grind a groove around inside circumference of valve seat insert. This groove should be approximately 0.030 inch (0.762 mm) deep.

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Figure 222 — Removing Valve Insert 1. T-Handle 2. Crank Handle

3. Lifting Bridge 4. Collet

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Valve Seat Insert Counterbore

Inspection

Refer to Figure 223.

Refer to Figure 224.

r

r

r

Valve seat at counterbore depth (3): —

Exhaust: 0.372–0.376 inch (9.499–9.55 mm)

—

Inlet: 0.360–0.364 inch (9.144–9.246 mm)

Inlet valve seat insert counterbore diameter (4): 1.8285–1.8295 inches (46.4439–46.4693 mm)

1. With valve seat insert removed from cylinder head (2), clean surfaces thoroughly with wire brush.

2. Check surface finish for smoothness. Check counterbore diameter with an inside diameter micrometer (1). Refer back to specifications listed in Figure 223.

224

Exhaust valve seat counterbore diameter (5): 1.6875–1.6885 inches (42.8625–42.8879 mm)

223

Figure 224 — Checking Counterbore Dimensions 1. Inside Diameter Micrometer

2. Cylinder Head

Figure 223 — Valve Seat Insert Counterbore Dimensions 1. Exhaust Valve Guide 2. Inlet Valve Guide 3. Valve Seat at Counterbore Depth

4. Inlet Valve Seat Counterbore Diameter 5. Exhaust Valve Seat Counterbore Diameter

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Valve Seat Insert Installation

Oversize inlet and exhaust valve seat inserts are available in 0.005, 0.015, 0.031, 0.047 and 0.062 inch sizes if counterbore requires machining.

1. If required, machine the inlet and exhaust valve seat insert counterbores using tool HT77136.

Refer to Figure 225.

2. Position valve seat insert (1) over corresponding counterbore. Install inserts using valve seat insert installation set J 38586 (2). Use driver handle J 8092 (3) to drive valve seat insert into counterbore.

225

3. Grind inlet/exhaust valve seat inserts to specification. r

Inlet valve inserts: 20° 30′ ± 15′ angle

r

Exhaust valve inserts: 30° 15′ ± 15′

Always use 30-degree valves with 30-degree valve inserts and 20-degree valves with 20-degree valve inserts. Excessive wear and possible failure results if 30-degree parts are matched with 20-degree parts.

If valve seat insert widths exceed specifications when grinding inserts, use a 15-degree angle grinding stone to obtain correct width.

Refer to Figure 226.

4. After grinding is completed, thoroughly clean valve seat insert.

5. Determine concentricity of each valve seat insert relative to valve guide. Valve seat runout is to be held within 0.001 inch (0.025 mm) Full Indicator Movement (FIM), with finished valve guide ID measurements made from snug-fitting arbor (1) and through-mounted into finished valve guides (2).

6. After valve insert has been ground and cleaned, determine position of contact area between valve and valve seat insert. Apply a dab of Prussian Blue to valve face at four points, 90 degrees apart.

7. Lower stem of valve into valve guide and allow valve face to rest on seat insert.

Rotate valve 90 degrees on insert. Carefully remove valve without making contact with valve face. Properly ground inserts should have full pattern on insert.

Figure 225 — Valve Seat Insert Installation 1. Valve Seat Insert 2. J 38586

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3. J 8092

Thoroughly clean cylinder head after checking valve seat inserts and before installing valves.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS VALVE SPRINGS

226

1. Visually inspect inside surfaces of coils.

Also, feel inside surfaces of spring for any indication of roughness or grooving. If any of these conditions exist, replace spring.

2. Check spring tension on universal spring tester J 22738-02 as shown in Figure 227.

With springs compressed to 1.435 inches (36.4 mm), the pressure should be within specification, 142.5–157.5 lb.

(64.6–71.4 kg).

If spring force does not meet specification, discard and install new spring.

227

Figure 226 — Checking Valve Seat Runout 1. Arbor

2. Valve Guides

Figure 227 — Checking Valve Spring Tension 1. Spring Tester J 22738-02

2. Valve Spring

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS INJECTION NOZZLE HOLDER INSERT The injection nozzle holder insert is machined to provide a press fit in cylinder head.

Insert Removal 1. To remove injection nozzle holder insert, tap ID with 3/4-10 tap.

Refer to Figure 228.

2. Install nozzle sleeve puller J 29880 (2) to slide hammer J 2619-01 (1) or equivalent.

Insert Installation 1. Thoroughly clean insert bore and surrounding area before installing insert.

2. Apply Loctite 620 completely around the center of all three sealing diameters of the new insert. Refer to Figure 229.

3. Using nozzle sleeve installer J 29297 (2), drive insert (1) into cylinder head until it bottoms in lower counterbore face.

229

3. Thread sleeve puller into end of injection nozzle holder insert. Use slide hammer to remove insert.

228

Figure 229 — Injection Nozzle Holder Insert Installation 1. Insert

Figure 228 — Removing Injection Nozzle Holder Insert 1. Slide Hammer J 2619-01

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2. Sleeve Puller J 29880

2. Nozzle Sleeve Installer J 29297

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS VALVE YOKE GUIDE PINS

Guide Pin Installation

The valve yoke guide pins are located between valve guides.

Refer to Figure 231.

Inspection Inspect valve yoke guide pin surface for cracks or other damage. Also check pin diameter and installed height.

If new pin is required, use valve guide pin installer J 37809 to drive pin into cylinder head. Guide pin will be at correct height when tool bottoms on cylinder head.

231

Guide Pin Removal Refer to Figure 230.

1. To remove pin, use valve yoke guide pin puller kit PT6575 and extractor PT6570-11 (7/16 inch).

2. Install extractor over guide pin and position extractor lock over extractor.

3. Using slide hammer, remove pin.

230

Figure 231 — Valve Yoke Guide Pin Installation 1. Valve Yoke Guide Pin

2. J 37809

Figure 230 — Valve Yoke Guide Pin Removal 1. Extractor Lock (Part of PT6570-11)

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CYLINDER HEAD CUP PLUGS

232

Description The cylinder head has two different-size cup plugs: 13/16 inch (20.64 mm) and 1-1/16 inch (26.99 mm).

Cup Plug Installation 1. Clean cup bore thoroughly.

2. Use Loctite 277 sealer, or equivalent, and apply to cup plug and cup plug bore in head.

Refer to Figure 232.

3. Install cup plugs in cylinder head, using cylinder head core plug installer J 34684 for 13/16-inch cup plugs, and cylinder head core plug installer J 34687 for 1-1/16 inch cup plugs.

Cup should be installed flush with machined surface to 0.020 inch (0.508 mm) below cylinder head.

Figure 232 — Cylinder Head Cup Plug Installation 1. Cup Plug

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2. Cup Plug Installer

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CYLINDER HEAD PIPE PLUGS Pipe Plug Installation 1. Apply dry pipe thread sealant to pipe plug and pipe plug bore in head. Refer to Figure 233.

2. Install a 1/8-inch pipe plug in top of rear cylinder head.

3. Install two 3/4-inch core hole pipe plugs in cylinder head. Torque to 45–65 lb-ft (61–89 N•m).

233

Figure 233 — Cylinder Head Pipe Plug Locations 1. 1-1/16-Inch Cup Plug 2. 3/4-Inch NPT Plug 3. 13/16-Inch Cup Plug

4. 1/16-Inch NPT Plug 5. 1/8-Inch NPT Plug

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Inlet and Exhaust Valves INSPECTION Refer to Figure 234.

Visually inspect valves for cracks, pits or other conditions that may cause improper operation.

Check valve seat angle. Also check stem length, diameter and condition.

234

Figure 234 — Inlet and Exhaust Valve Details

VALVE IDENTIFICATION To permit positive identification, the exhaust valve has two stem grooves and the inlet valve has one stem groove.

The valves are also identified by letters, “2” (20-degree inlet) or “Y” (Pyromet exhaust), which are forged in a slight depression on bottom face of valve head.

INLET AND EXHAUST VALVE INSTALLATION

The inlet and exhaust valve head diameters are nearly the same size. It is important, therefore, that extra care be taken when installing these valves.

Page 176

With the new, more effective valve stem seals (446GC328), pre-lubing the seals and valve stems during installation is extremely important.

Perform the following: r

Valve Stem to Guide — If valves are removed, lubricate the inside diameter of the valve guides by using a “bottle brush” coated with graphite grease. This is particularly important when both the valves and the valve guides are new. With an on-engine seal replacement, pre-lube the valve stems with engine oil while moving the valve up and down, prior to installation of the valve spring.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS r

Valve Stem to Seal Lip — The inside diameter of the seal lip and outside diameter of the valve stem should be well-lubricated with clean engine oil when installing the seal over the valve stem.

It is essential that the J 42453 Valve Stem Seal Installation tool be used to install the seals. This tool bottoms on the cylinder head rocker arm mounting bracket surface when the seal is installed to the proper depth on the valve guide.

Using any non-bottoming type seal driver (such as a socket) may result in distorting the top surface of the seal casing which permanently distorts the seal lip and prevents proper sealing, or in the top rubber portion of the seal being cut off. Also, do not use seal installer J 41150, or seal damage will result.

5. Check valve stem tip for nicks or burrs that may damage valve seal upon installation.

6. Install valve spring, upper washer and keepers. Use tool J 29294-B to install keepers.

Refer to Figure 235 and Figure 236.

7. After valves are assembled, check each inlet valve for head height above cylinder deck.

The protrusion dimension for inlet valves should be 0.0425 ± 0.007 inch (1.0795 ± 0.178 mm).

235

Before installing valve stem seals, be sure the rotator has been installed. The rotator will not fit over the valve stem seal.

1. Lubricate the valve guides and valve stems with engine oil prior to installation.

2. Install valve spring lower washer (Roto-Coil), over valve guide.

3. Lubricate valve stem seals with engine oil and install seals using valve seal installer J 42453.

4. Install valve into cylinder head.

Figure 235 — Checking Valve Assembly Height 1. Inlet Valve

2. Depth/Height Measurement Tool

8. Check each exhaust valve for head depth below cylinder deck. The depth dimension for exhaust valve should be 0.021 ± 0.007 inch (0.553 ± 0.178 mm).

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 236

Figure 236 — Inlet/Exhaust Valve Head Depth Measurement

Valve Rocker Arm Shaft If dimensions are not within specification, machine valve seat insert and/or valve face as necessary. Refer to Valve Seat Insert Installation for detailed specifications.

There is a shouldered rocker arm mounting capscrew at one end of each rocker arm assembly to ensure proper alignment.

INSPECTION Inspect all components of rocker arm and bracket assembly for evidence of damage or wear.

Replace as necessary.

ROCKER ARMS Rocker arms are designed so that the slipper end wear surface is a hardened, headed pin, pressed into the rocker arm.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 6. Assemble rocker arm retaining (coil) spring (6) on shaft.

237

7. Lubricate exhaust rocker arm (5) and install on rocker arm shaft.

8. Lubricate valve rocker arm adjusting screw and nut, and install into exhaust rocker arm.

9. Place center (second) rocker arm shaft bracket (4) and shaft (12) on a flat surface.

This bracket does not have a threaded hole on top or an oil hole at bottom surface. Align mounting surface and offset of bracket with bracket already installed.

10. Press shaft into rocker arm bracket until center lines of mounting holes in brackets are spaced 5.750 inches (146 mm) apart.

At this point, a used or scrapped cylinder head can be used as a template for proper bracket alignment and to ensure mounting surfaces of each bracket are parallel.

11. Lubricate inlet rocker arm (3) and install on shaft.

Figure 237 — Rocker Arm

VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAFT ASSEMBLY Refer to Figure 238.

The assembly procedure for rocker arm shaft is described below. The rocker arm arrangement includes valve rocker arms mounted on the rocker arm shaft.

1. Position shaft (12) so that screw locating hole is in line with bracket locating screw hole.

2. The offset side of bracket must be positioned toward right side of engine.

3. Assemble bracket (8) on press table. Press shaft into bracket until oil hole in shaft is positioned under hole bracket. Install locating screw and lock washer (8) to secure bracket on shaft.

4. Lubricate inlet rocker arm (3) and install on rocker arm shaft.

12. Assemble rocker arm retaining (coil) spring (6) on shaft.

13. Lubricate exhaust rocker arm (5) and install on shaft.

14. Place last (third) rocker arm shaft bracket (4) and shaft on a flat surface. This bracket does not have a threaded hole on top or an oil hole at bottom surface. Align mounting surface and offset of bracket with two brackets already installed.

15. Check for proper bracket alignment. Press bracket onto shaft. Ensure that mounting surfaces of each bracket are parallel.

16. Lubricate and install outermost inlet rocker arm (3).

17. Install flat spring and retaining snap ring on end of shaft to keep inlet rocker arm in place.

18. At opposite end of shaft, lubricate and install outermost exhaust rocker arm (5).

5. Lubricate valve rocker arm adjusting screw and nut, and install into inlet rocker arm.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 238

Figure 238 — Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly 1. Snap Ring 2. Flat Spring 3. Inlet Rocker Arm 4. Brackets 5. Exhaust Rocker Arm 6. Spring

19. Install flat spring (2) and snap ring (1) on end of shaft. Some rocker arm shafts are equipped with threaded plugs and aluminum washers instead of flat springs and snap rings.

7. Locating Screw and Lock Washer 8. Bracket with Center Threaded Hole 9. Standard Adjusting Screws and Jam Nuts 10. Capscrews 11. Washers 12. Shaft

20. Check all rocker arms to make sure they rotate freely.

Valve rocker arm shaft assembly will be installed during engine assembly by inserting capscrews (10) and washers (11) into holes in brackets (4) and (8).

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS LUBRICATION SYSTEM COMPONENTS INSPECTION

exits the oil cooler through the oil outlet port, flows through the oil filters, and then into the engine.

Oil Cooler Assembly Inspection and Repair

This engine features a “removable-bundle” type oil cooler. Periodic visual inspection of the oil cooler will indicate condition of gaskets, O-ring and core. If a problem exists, these components can be serviced separately rather than replaced as an assembly.

DESCRIPTION The oil cooler assembly is located near the left front of the engine. Engine coolant from the heat exchanger flows through the lower tube and hose assembly, into a chamber in the oil cooler. The coolant then flows into the water pump.

The oil pump sends engine oil through the inlet port of the oil cooler into the cooling chamber.

Heat from the engine oil is transferred through the chamber walls to the engine coolant. Cooled oil

The presence of engine oil in the engine coolant may indicate internal engine problems or worn, loosened or damaged parts within the oil cooler.

Continued operation under these conditions may result in severe engine damage.

239

Figure 239 — Oil Cooler Assembly 1. Gasket 2. Coolant Outlet End cap 3. O-Ring 4. Mounting Flange 5. Clamps 6. Coupler 7. Gasket or O-Ring 8. Washer 9. Capscrew

10. Oil Outlet Tube 11. O-Ring 12. Capscrew 13. Washer 14. Oil Supply Head 15. Capscrew 16. Washer 17. O-Ring 18. Pipe Plug

19. Capscrew 20. Coolant Inlet Cap 21. Gasket 22. Bundle 23. Gasket 24. Housing 25. Gasket 26. Capscrew 27. Capscrew

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS DISASSEMBLY Refer to Figure 239.

1. Remove coolant inlet end cap (20) by removing six capscrews (19).

2. Remove coolant outlet end cap (2) by removing six capscrews (26).

3. Remove bundle (22) from coolant inlet end of housing (24).

4. Remove O-ring (3) from coolant outlet end of housing.

5. Clean gasket material from all surfaces.

INSPECTION Refer to Figure 239.

1. Visually inspect housing (24) for cracks which may cause a leak. Replace housing if damaged.

2. Check oil cooler bundle (22) for leaks by pressurizing with air to 80 psi (552 kPa) and submerging it in water. If a leak is detected, replace with new bundle.

ASSEMBLY Refer to Figure 239.

Lubricate and install O-ring (3) in groove at coolant outlet end of oil cooler housing (24).

1. Apply Permatex® gasket sealer on coolant inlet flange before installing gasket (23).

2. Install gasket (23) on coolant inlet end of housing (24).

3. Apply Permatex gasket sealer on top of gasket.

4. Install bundle (22). If necessary, tap bundle with soft-faced hammer to seat bundle past O-ring (3).

The alignment notch in the bundle end flange must be positioned at the top for proper installation.

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5. Apply Permatex gasket sealer on bundle end.

6. Place gasket on bundle end.

7. Apply Permatex gasket sealer on top of gasket (21) before installing inlet cap (20).

8. Install coolant inlet end cap and secure with six capscrews (19).

9. Torque coolant inlet end-cap capscrews to 20 lb-ft (27 N•m) using torque wrench J 24405, or equivalent.

10. Apply Permatex sealant to both sides of gasket (25) and install on mounting flange (4) of housing.

11. Install coolant outlet end cap (2) with six capscrews (26).

12. Torque coolant outlet end-cap capscrews to 20 lb-ft (27 N•m) using torque wrench J 24406, or equivalent.

Refer to Figure 240.

13. Pressure-check oil cooler for leaks by installing a test plate (4) with air fitting (3) as follows: a.

Position a rubber gasket (5) and test plate (4) on mounting flange (1) and secure with mounting capscrews (2).

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 240

When pressure-testing complete oil cooler assembly using an in-line pressure regulator, apply pressure at 2–5 psi (14–34 kPa) maximum.

Then gradually increase pressure, checking for leaks until 80 psi (552 kPa) is reached.

241

Figure 240 — Installing Test Plate 1. Mounting Flange 2. Capscrews 3. Air Fitting

4. Test Plate 5. Rubber Gasket

Refer to Figure 241. b.

c.

Install a steel plate (2) with a rubber gasket on oil outlet opening. Secure to housing (1) with two capscrews (3).

Connect air line and pressurize to 80 psi (552 kPa). Submerge in water to check for leaks.

Figure 241 — Sealing Oil Outlet 1. Housing 2. Plate

3. Capscrews

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Oil Pump Inspection and Repair

5. Slide oil pump idler gear (14) off shaft.

DISASSEMBLY

6. Turn oil pump upside down and remove oil pump shaft nut (1) and washer (2).

Refer to Figure 242.

1. Remove pick-up tube and screen assembly (not shown).

7. Using a press, remove drive gear (3) and key (5) from pumping gear and shaft assembly (6).

2. Remove oil pump housing cover (7) from oil pump housing (4).

8. Remove pumping gear and shaft assembly from housing.

3. Remove oil pressure relief valve cap (13).

9. Remove oil pump inlet flange plate (9) and gasket (8) from housing by removing capscrews (10).

4. Remove oil pressure relief valve spring (12) and plunger (11).

242

Figure 242 — Lubrication Oil Pump 1. Self-Locking Nut 2. Washer 3. Drive Gear 4. Housing 5. Key 6. Pumping Gear and Shaft Assembly 7. Oil Pump Housing Cover

Page 184

8. Gasket 9. Inlet Flange Plate 10. Capscrews 11. Plunger 12. Relief Valve Spring 13. Relief Valve Cap 14. Idler Gear

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS INSPECTION Refer to Figure 242.

1. Clean and inspect oil pump housing (4) for scoring, cracks or other damage. If any of these conditions exist, replace oil pump.

2. Check bushings in oil pump housing for burrs, nicks or cracks.

The bushings are an integral part of the oil pump housing. If bushings are damaged, replace oil pump housing.

End Clearance Check Refer to Figure 243.

1. Low Limit — Place a straightedge across face of gears and run a 0.0035-inch (0.089-mm) thickness gauge under straightedge. Gauge should move freely without binding. If binding occurs, check gears for nicks or burrs. Replace as necessary.

2. High Limit — With straightedge in place, run a 0.0060-inch (0.152-mm) thickness gauge under straightedge. Gauge should be very tight. If gauge moves freely, replace gears.

243

3. Clean and inspect relief valve spring (12) for breaks. Replace as necessary.

4. Clean and inspect plunger (11) seating surface for burrs or nicks. If seating surface contains burrs or nicks, repair seat as follows: a.

Place valve lapping compound on plunger seat.

b.

Insert plunger in relief valve housing and rotate plunger against seat to smooth seat.

c.

Remove plunger and clean.

5. Check oil pump idler gear (14) for free play by spinning it on its shaft. If any binding occurs, check housing bore and gear teeth for burrs, nicks or other damage. Replace as necessary.

6. Insert pumping gear in housing and check for free play by spinning. If any binding occurs, check housing and gear teeth for burrs, nicks or other damage. Replace as necessary.

Before proceeding with assembly, check end clearance, side clearance and backlash of drive gears as follows.

Figure 243 — Oil Pump Gear End Clearance Check 1. Thickness Gauge 2. Straightedge

3. Pump Driving Gear 4. Pump Driven Gear

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Side Clearance Check

Backlash Check

Refer to Figure 244.

Refer to Figure 245.

1. Low Limit — Insert a 0.003-inch (0.076-mm) thickness gauge between side of gears and housing. Gauge should pass between gears and housing without drag. If it drags, check housing and gears for nicks or burrs.

Replace as necessary.

1. Check backlash between driving gear (3) and driven gear (2) with thickness gauge (1).

2. High Limit — Insert a 0.0045-inch (0.114-mm) thickness gauge between gears and housing. Gauge should not pass through. If gauge passes through, replace housing.

244

a.

Low Limit — Insert a 0.006-inch (0.20-mm) thickness gauge (1) between pump driven gear (2) and pump driving gear (3). Gauge should pass between gears without binding. If binding occurs, check for nicks or burrs.

Replace as necessary.

b.

High Limit — Insert a 0.016-inch (0.40-mm) thickness gauge (1) between pump driven gear (2) and pump driving gear (3). Gauge should not pass through. If gauge passes through, replace gears.

245

Figure 244 — Oil Pump Gear Side Clearance Check 1. Thickness Gauge 2. Pump Driven Gear

3. Pump Driving Gear Figure 245 — Checking Oil Pump Gear Backlash 1. Thickness Gauge 2. Pump Driven Gear

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3. Pump Driving Gear

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS ASSEMBLY Refer to Figure 242.

1. Install oil pressure relief valve plunger (11) in relief valve housing (4).

2. Install oil pressure relief valve spring (12) in relief valve housing.

3. Clean oil pressure relief cap (13) and install in relief valve housing.

To maintain correct oil pressure for various oil system arrangements, the proper oil pressure relief valve spring and cap combination must be used. Using incorrect components may result in either high or low oil pressure, and contribute to premature engine damage.

It is extremely important that pump application be checked prior to drive gear assembly. Several drive gears are available to establish correct oil pump-to-auxiliary drive gear ratio combination.

Failure to select proper drive gear for application will result in gear and engine damage.

Apply Loctite® 271 to all capscrews used to assemble the oil pump.

7. Install cover (7) on pump and secure with capscrews. Torque to 15 lb-ft (20 N•m).

8. Install key (5) in driving shaft and gear assembly (6).

4. Install oil pump inlet flange cover (9) and gasket (8) on housing. Secure with capscrews (10).

9. Place gear (3) on shaft aligning slot with key on shaft. Press drive gear on shaft.

5. Install driving shaft and gear assembly (6) in housing and check for free spin.

10. Install washer (2) and self-locking nut (1) on shaft. Torque to 60 lb-ft (81 N•m) using torque wrench J 24407 or equivalent.

6. Install idler gear (14) on housing shaft.

11. Install pickup tube and screen assembly.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS INSPECTION Water Pump Inspection (Fresh Water) The water pump is a belt-driven centrifugal or impeller type, and is located on the front of the engine. The water pump pulley is belt-driven by the crankshaft pulley.

During engine operation, the impeller spins in proportion to engine speed. The spinning impeller blades create a negative pressure (suction) at the water pump inlet port and a positive pressure at the outlet port. Engine coolant is drawn into the water pump from the heat exchanger. The impeller motion forces coolant to circulate through the engine block, cylinder heads, exhaust manifold, turbocharger and back to the heat exchanger.

Inspect the water pump for coolant leaks at the shaft seal area. Check for bearing failure or other damage.

The water pump is not a field-rebuildable unit. If a pump failure occurs, exchange it for a new or remanufactured unit available through the MackPower™ Parts System.

Page 188

Gear Oil Cooler Inspection The gear oil cooler is a heat exchanger type that uses sea/lake water to cool the transmission oil.

The transmission oil is pumped from the transmission through the cooler and back to the transmission reservoir. To inspect the gear oil cooler it must be removed to allow access to the raw water inlet and outlet ports of the cooler.

Using a flashlight, inspect the tubes for corrosion, excessive rust or cracks. Blocked or restricted tubes can be cleaned (rod out) using a rifle (firearm) cleaning kit or a bore brush. First circulate a cleaning solvent such as Powercool 2001 On-Line-Cleaner, or equivalent, through the tubes. Drain the cleaner. Then use a .22 caliber rod with enough extensions to push the rod completely through the tubes. Do not try to reverse direction of the rod as the brush is too large to be reversed in the tube. A pellet gun brush (.18/.19 caliber) should also work. Push the brush through each tube and blow out with compressed air. Only about half of the tubes are accessible for cleaning.

The gear oil cooler is not a field-rebuildable unit.

If a gear oil cooler failure occurs, obtain a new unit available through the MackPower™ Parts System.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Heat Exchanger Inspection

246

The heat exchanger uses sea/lake water to transfer heat away from the engine cooling system. The engine coolant is pumped from the engine block and water manifold through the heat exchanger where it is cooled and pumped back to the block and exhaust/turbocharger. To inspect the heat exchanger it is not necessary to remove the unit from its engine bracket, but merely remove the side covers to allow access to the raw water cooling tubes.

1. Close the engine sea water seacock.

2. Drain sea water from the raw water cooling system by separating the outlet hose at the raw water pump.

Figure 246 — Heat Exchanger End Cover 1. Heat Exchanger End Cover Rubber Seal

The entire raw water cooling system will drain back through the removed raw water outlet hose.

This system contains many gallons of water. Be prepared to catch the water in buckets or allow the bilge pump to pump it out of the hull.

3. Remove the center bolts from both ends of the heat exchanger and remove the covers.

The engine coolant (antifreeze) compartment of the heat exchanger does not need to be drained as the only inspection available is on the raw water side of the system.

2. Heat Exchanger End Cover Bolt

4. Using a flashlight, inspect the tubes for corrosion, excessive rust or cracks. Blocked or restricted tubes can be cleaned (rod out) using a rifle (firearm) cleaning kit or a bore brush. First circulate a cleaning solvent such as Powercool 2001 On-Line-Cleaner, or equivalent, through the tubes. Drain the cleaner. Then use a .22 caliber rod with enough extensions to push the rod completely through the tubes. Do not try to reverse direction of the rod as the brush is too large to be reversed in the tube. A pellet gun brush (.18/.19 caliber) should also work.

Push the brush through each tube and blow out with compressed air 5. The heat exchanger is not a field-rebuildable unit. If a heat exchanger failure occurs, obtain a new one through the MackPower™ Parts System.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 6. Install the heat exchanger end covers with a new rubber seal and tighten the center bolt to specification.

RAW WATER PUMP INSPECTION 1. Close the engine sea water seacock.

2. Remove the six special brass impeller cover capscrews and remove the end cover by prying off with a gasket scrapper. Care should be exercised to avoid scratching or bending the end cover.

247

248

Figure 247 — Heat Exchanger End Cover

7. Reattach the outlet hose at the raw water pump and position and tighten the clamp until the spring is completely compressed, then tighten two additional turns to specifications.

8. Open the engine seawater seacock.

Raw Water Pump Inspection and Overhaul The raw water pump circulates sea/lake water to transfer heat away from the engine intake air, engine cooling and transmission cooling systems.

The raw water is pumped in from the hull of the vessel below the water line to the air inlet aftercooler, then to transmission gear oil cooler and on to the engine coolant heat exchanger.

After the heat exchanger, the raw water is returned to the sea/lake either directly or through the exhaust/mixer. To inspect the raw water pump, it is not necessary to remove the unit from the engine, but merely remove the rear cover to allow access to the raw pump impeller area.

Page 190

Figure 248 — Raw Water Pump 1. Six Raw Water Pump Capscrews

2. Raw Water Pump Cover and Gasket

Refer to Figure 249.

3. Remove the impeller outer wearplate.

4. Grasp hub of impeller (7) with pliers and remove from impeller bore. If impeller O-ring remains on shaft, remove it from shaft.

5. Remove cam/liner (3) from pump body.

6. Remove inner wearplate (9).

7. Clean and inspect all parts for wear. If wear plates are worn, they should be reversed or replaced. If cam/liner thickness is 3/8″ or less at its thickest section, it should be replaced.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 249

Figure 249 — Raw Water Pump Components 1. Slinger O-Ring 2. Pump Body 3. Cam/Liner 4. End Cover Screw 1/4 – 20 x 1/2″ 5. End Cover 6. End Cover Gasket

8. Install inner wearplate (9) in pump body aligning notch in wearplate with pin in body.

9. Lubricate body with a film of water pump grease and aligning hole in top of cam/liner (3) with pin in pump body (2). Push into body until it is recessed about 1/8″ from end cover surface.

10. Liberally grease the inside of cam/liner with water pump grease.

7. Impeller 8. Seal Retaining Ring 9. Wearplate 10. Lock Washer 11. Screw, 5/16 x 1/2″

11. Install impeller O-ring in groove in impeller insert. Inserting end of impeller (7) with O-ring first, rotate impeller in direction of pump rotation to bend blades under cam and push into bore until impeller insert flats align with shaft flats. Then push impeller all the way into impeller bore. End of impeller should be approximately even with cam/ liner. Install rubber spline plug into end of impeller.

12. Install outer wearplate ensuring that notch in wearplate aligns with hole in top cam/liner.

13. Place a new end cover gasket (6) over pin in end cover. Install end cover aligning pin with hole in cam/liner.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 14. Reinstall the impeller end cover (5) onto the raw water pump and insert the six special brass capscrews (4). Tighten the capscrews to specifications.

4. Remove in order, a flat washer, a lock washer and a nut from the center of the coupling gear.

251

15. Open the engine sea water seacock.

Pump will self-prime at low or high speeds. Be sure suction lines are airtight or pump will not self-prime.

Impeller depends on liquid pumped for lubrication. DO NOT RUN DRY for more than 30 seconds. Lack of liquid will burn the impeller.

Figure 251 — Coupling Gear Retaining Hardware

RAW WATER PUMP OVERHAUL (PUMP REMOVED) 1. Place the raw water pump on a clean work surface.

5. Using puller J 4558-01, or equivalent, remove the coupling gear from the end of the raw water pump shaft.

252

2. Remove the raw water pump from the MackPower™ supplied adapter by removing the six nuts from the pump studs. Coupling gear must be removed before the gasket can be separated from between the two housings.

3. Loosen the nut securing coupling gear to the raw water pump shaft using tool J 41071, or equivalent, to hold the gear and a socket and ratchet to loosen the nut.

250

Figure 250 — Loosening Coupling Gear Nut

Page 192

Figure 252 — Coupling Gear Removal

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 6. Remove the now-exposed coupling gear spacer, Woodruf key and gasket from the shaft end of the raw water pump.

11. Remove cam/liner (8) from the pump body.

12. Remove inner wearplate (14).

13. Remove the seal retaining ring (13), taking care not to scratch shaft. Remove carbon portion of seal with tensioning spring attached.

253

14. Remove bolts securing port adapters to ports. Remove four 5/16″ bolts (16) and lock washers (15) holding the pump body to the bearing housing.

15. Remove pump body (7) from bearing housing and shaft sub-assembly. Remove any remaining gasket material from port adapters.

16. Remove slinger O-ring (5) from shaft.

Figure 253 — Raw Water Pump Coupling Components

17. From drive end of pump body, press out remaining portions of seal.

1. Housing Gasket 2. Shaft Woodruf Key

18. Remove bearing housing (3) and shaft sub-assembly from adapter flange.

3. Gear (Coupling) Spacer

Refer to Figure 254.

7. Remove the six special brass impeller cover capscrews (9) and remove the end cover (10) by prying off with a gasket scrapper.

Care should be exercised to avoid scratching or bending the end cover.

8. Remove the impeller outer wearplate.

9. Inspect the impeller area and remove any grass, sea weed, impeller pieces, etc., which are present. Also allow any remaining sea water to drain.

10. Grasp hub of impeller (12) with pliers and remove the impeller from bore. If impeller O-ring remains on shaft, remove it from shaft.

19. Remove retaining ring (19) securing bearing in bearing housing.

20. Press against impeller end of shaft to remove shaft and bearing sub-assembly from bearing housing.

21. Support inner race of bearing and press shaft out of bearing. Repeat procedure on second bearing.

22. From pump end of bearing housing, push oil seal (4) out of bearing housing.

23. Clean and inspect all parts for wear and replace as needed. If wearplates are worn, they should be reversed or replaced. If cam/ liner thickness is 3/8″ or less at its thickest section, it should be replaced. Clean any remaining gasket material from face of adapter on PTO.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 254

Figure 254 — Raw Water Pump Components 1. Lock Washer 2. Woodruf Key 3. Bearing Housing 4. Oil Seal 5. Slinger O-Ring 6. Water Seal 7. Pump Body 8. Cam/Liner

9. End Cover Screw, 1/4 – 20 x 1/2″ 10. End Cover 11. End Cover Gasket 12. Impeller 13. Seal Retaining Ring 14. Wearplate 15. Lock Washer 16. Screw, 15/16 x 1/2″

24. From drive end of bearing housing, push oil seal (4) into seal bore with lip pointing toward drive end of housing. A light coat of oil may be used to ease installation.

25. Pushing on inner race of bearing, press bearings (17) onto shaft.

26. Pushing on outer race of bearing, install bearing and shaft sub-assembly into bearing housing.

27. Install the bearing retaining ring (19) in the bearing housing, ensuring it is securely seated in the retaining ring groove

Page 194

17. Ball Bearing 18. Shaft 19. Bearing Retaining Ring 20. Adapter Flange Gasket 21. Retaining Washer 22. Drive Gear 23. Hex Nut, 5/8–18″

28. Install slinger O-ring (5) on shaft near bearing housing.

29. Lubricate ceramic seal seat boot with WATER ONLY and press into seal bore of pump body. Exposed ceramic surface should face toward impeller bore.

It is extremely important that the seal components do not become soiled during assembly.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 30. Slide pump body (with seal seat installed) over shaft, taking care not to dislodge seal seat as body is moved toward (and aligned with) bearing housing. Attach pump body to bearing housing with four 5/16″ bolts and lock washers.

31. Install carbon portion of seal with tensioning spring and spring washer over shaft and locate in seal bore with carbon face against ceramic seal seat. Slide seal retaining ring over shaft against seal thrust ring and locate in retaining ring groove.

Gasket must be installed before coupling gear as the hole in the gasket is too small to fit over the gear.

255

32. Install inner wearplate (14) in pump body aligning notch in wearplate with pin in body.

33. Lubricate body with a film of water pump grease and aligning hole in top of cam/liner (8) with pin in pump body (7). Push into body until it is recessed about 1/8″ from end cover surface.

34. Liberally grease the inside of cam/liner with water pump grease.

35. Install impeller O-ring in groove in impeller insert. Inserting end of impeller (12) with O-ring first, rotate impeller in direction of pump rotation to bend blades under cam and push into bore until impeller insert flats align with shaft flats. Then push impeller all the way into impeller bore. End of impeller should be approximately even with cam/ liner. Install rubber spline plug into end of impeller.

36. Install outer wearplate ensuring that notch in wearplate aligns with hole in top cam/liner.

37. Place a new end cover gasket (11) over pin in end cover. Install end cover aligning pin with hole in cam/liner.

38. Reinstall the impeller end cover (10) onto the raw water pump and insert the six special brass capscrews (9). Tighten the capscrews to specifications.

39. Install the coupling gear spacer and position gasket on the shaft end of the raw water pump housing. Using a hammer, tap Woodruf key into groove of shaft.

Figure 255 — Raw Water Pump Coupling Components 1. Housing Gasket 2. Shaft Woodruf Key

3. Gear (Coupling) Spacer

40. Position the coupling gear onto the end of the raw water pump shaft over the previously installed spacer. Heat the raw water pump coupling gear prior to installing it on the pump shaft.

Heat the metal portion of the coupling gear only and temperature is not to exceed 250°F. An alternative to heating the coupling gear is to remove the end cover (10) of the pump and impeller (12). Brace the shaft (18) and install the coupling gear by gently tapping it onto the shaft with a small mallet.

41. Install in order, flat washer, lock washer and nut onto the raw water pump shaft.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS INSPECTION

256

Injection Pump Drive Hub DESCRIPTION For mechanically governed engines, a scallopedtype drive hub is installed directly on the fuel injection pump camshaft. The injection pump driven gear bolts to the hub.

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED r

Pump Holding Fixture J 37078

Figure 256 — Coupling Gear Retaining Hardware

42. Tighten the nut securing coupling gear to the raw water pump shaft using tool J 41071, or equivalent, to hold the gear and a socket and torque wrench to tighten the nut.

CLEANING Degrease tapered surfaces of injection pump camshaft and drive hub with Stoddard No. 303 or Loctite 75559, or an equivalent degreasing agent.

257

Failure to degrease drive components prior to assembly may result in drive hub slippage.

258

Figure 257 — Tightening Coupling Gear Nut

43. Install the raw water pump from the MackPower™ supplied adapter over the six adapter studs of the raw water pump. Install the six nuts onto the pump studs and tighten to specifications.

44. Refer to Engine Reassembly for raw water pump installation.

Figure 258 — Degreasing Drive Hub

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 2. Place injection pump into pump holding fixture J 37078. Turn pump drive hub to allow pump to be slid forward, engaging alignment pins until pump mounting surface is flush with fixture bracket.

259

261

Figure 259 — Degreasing Injection Pump Camshaft Tapered Surface

INSTALLATION OF DRIVE HUB 1. Place the injection pump drive hub into fixture J 37078 and position against alignment pins.

Figure 261 — Location of Alignment Pins 262

260

Figure 262 — Engaging Alignment Pins and Pump Figure 260 — Positioning Pump Hub in Fixture

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 264

Do not install a key in the driveshaft. A key is not required and no keyway is provided in the hub.

3. Install and position the flat washer onto the injection pump camshaft.

263

Figure 264 — Installing Drive Hub Nut 265

Figure 263 — Installing Flatwasher

4. Install the drive hub nut. Torque to specification using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

Do NOT lubricate threads prior to installing hub nut.

Figure 265 — Tightening Drive Hub Nut

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 5. Remove injection pump from holding fixture.

The recess in the drive hub is now in position to clear the camshaft gear during installation.

266

Injector Nozzle Inspection and Cleaning Injector nozzles (with six spray holes) are a Valve Covering Orifice (VCO) configuration and are hydroground for proper fuel flow and atomization.

When servicing nozzle holder assemblies, cleaning of nozzle tips may be necessary.

Special care must be taken when cleaning nozzle tips to avoid damaging nozzle spray holes. r

Preferred cleaning method: ultrasonic cleaning

r

Acceptable cleaning method: brass brush/ wire wheel

ULTRASONIC CLEANING METHOD Ultrasonic cleaning is the preferred method for cleaning the fuel injector nozzles. Ultrasonic cleaning units, such as J 29653-A, use sound waves or mechanical vibrations approximately 55,000 cycles per second above human hearing range. The sound waves are generated by the transducer, which changes high-frequency electrical energy into mechanical energy.

Figure 266 — Removing Injection Pump from Fixture

Do not rotate pump during or after removal from fixture. Hub would not be properly aligned for installation into engine.

BRASS BRUSH/WIRE WHEEL METHOD Cleaning the fuel injector nozzles with a brass brush or wire wheel may be acceptable under some conditions, but it is not recommended.

The nozzles will be damaged if a steel wire wheel is used for cleaning. Damage can also occur if an improper size brass-wire wheel and/or improper speed is used.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS ENGINE REASSEMBLY General Instructions This section includes step-by-step procedures for complete reassembly of the engine. Major components that were inspected and overhauled or replaced under the respective bench procedures are reinstalled here as assemblies.

3. Place the upper half of the bearing insert (2) in the cylinder block main bearing bore, making sure that the locating tab (1) fits into the notch in the bore (Figure 267).

267

Failure to follow the sequence of operations listed may result in damage to components or personal injury.

After cleaning the components, properly store them where they will remain clean until needed for reassembly.

When required for installing components, be sure to use clean engine oil of the approved type.

Crankshaft Installation 1. Be sure that the crankshaft and the crankcase area of the cylinder block are clean.

2. Thoroughly clean each main bearing bore and the back of each bearing insert before installation. The inserts must be installed dry.

The hole in the insert must line up with the drilled hole in the block or the bearing will fail due to lack of lubrication. The upper bearing insert is stamped on the back with the word “UPPER.”

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Figure 267 — Main Bearing Insert (Upper) 1. Locating Tab

2. Bearing Insert

4. Repeat the previous step to install the remaining upper inserts. Refer to Figure 268 for the part number and location of each bearing insert.

A bearing insert installed at the wrong location can cause engine failure.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 268

Figure 268 — Main Bearing Insert Part Numbers and Locations 1. Upper Insert — 646B348; Lower Insert — 646B343 2. Upper Insert — 646B345; Lower Insert — 646B343 3. Upper Insert — 646B345; Lower Insert — 646B343 4. Upper Insert — 646B349; Lower Insert — 646B344

5. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil on the insert surfaces and on the crankshaft main bearing journals.

5. Upper Insert — 646B345; Lower Insert — 646B343 6. Upper Insert — 646B345; Lower Insert — 646B343 7. Upper Insert — 646B350; Lower Insert — 646B344

6. Using a suitable lifting device, position the crankshaft in the cylinder block.

Due to the considerable weight of the crankshaft, extreme care must be observed during installation. No nicks, scratches, burrs, or any other kinds of distress are acceptable on the main bearing and/or crankshaft journals and fillets.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Main Bearing Cap Installation SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED r

Magnetic Base Indicator Tool J 7872

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE 1. Clean the bore in the bearing cap and back of the lower bearing insert.

2. Install the bearing insert in the bearing cap bore (Figure 269). The insert must be installed dry.

The lower bearing inserts do not have a hole or a groove. They are stamped with the word “LOWER.”

Do not mix the caps or inserts. The caps are numbered from 1 through 7, front to rear.

269

3. Lubricate the threads of the bearing capscrews with clean engine oil and place capscrews in the cap holes.

4. Position the No. 1 bearing cap over the No. 1 crankshaft journal and start the screws in the threaded holes in the cylinder block.

5. Using a plastic-faced mallet, tap the bearing cap down until it contacts the machined mounting surface.

6. Tighten the screws until they contact the bearing cap. At this time, tighten them only finger-tight.

7. Repeat the above steps for the bearing cap Nos. 2, 3, 5, 6 and 7. The center bearing cap, No. 4, is installed later.

8. Tighten the bearing cap capscrews to specification, 200–220 lb-ft (271–298 N•m), using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

9. Place the upper thrust washer sections in position in the cylinder block at the center bearing, No. 4, location as shown in Figure 271. The steel side of the thrust washer goes toward the block, the copper or aluminum-faced side goes toward the crankshaft (this applies to upper and lower thrust washer sections). Oil reservoir grooves are cut into the aluminum-faced side, as well as tip-face reliefs.

Use standard thickness thrust washers initially.

Figure 269 — Main Bearing Installation (Lower) 1. Locating Tab 2. Bearing Insert

Page 202

3. Bearing Cap

Thrust washers are steel-backed with an aluminum facing material on the side installed against the crankshaft. The obvious color difference of the previously used bronze/steel washers is no longer present making it difficult to determine which side of the washer is meant to be installed against the crankshaft. Care should be taken when installing these aluminum-faced thrust washers as the steel side is nearly the same color as the aluminum surface. Locate the oil reservoir grooves and the tip reliefs cut into the aluminum, and install those sides against the crankshaft.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 270

271

Figure 270 — Thrust Washer Styles

To prevent damage, ensure the thrust washers are installed in the correct position when assembling an engine. Failure to install the thrust washer properly will result in rapid wear of the area where the crankshaft contacts the thrust washer.

Figure 271 — Crankshaft Thrust Washer Installation

10. Position the lower thrust washer sections on the center bearing cap (aluminum-faced side toward crankshaft) and install the cap (Figure 272). Torque the capscrews to specification, using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 272

Figure 272 — Main Bearing Cap/Thrust Washer Installation 1. Bearing Cap 2. Thrust Washer

11. Install a magnetic base indicator tool, J 7872, or equivalent, on the block with the plunger against a crankshaft counterweight to check crankshaft end play.

12. Using a suitable pry bar, move the crankshaft either forward or rearward until it stops. Tap the end of the crankshaft with a plastic-faced hammer to seat the thrust washer.

13. Using the pry bar, move the crankshaft in the opposite direction. Tap the end of the crankshaft with a plastic-faced hammer to seat the other thrust washer.

14. Set the dial on the indicator to zero.

Page 204

3. No. 4 Journal

15. Using the pry bar, move the crankshaft in the opposite direction and read the dial indicator. Refer to the allowable tolerances under Fits and Limits in the Specifications section.

16. If the end play is out of specification, remove the thrust washers and install properly sized thrust washers, as required, to bring the end play into specification.

The thickness of the thrust washers used in the bearing cap must match the thickness of the thrust washers in the block. Be sure to put the aluminum-faced bearing surface of the thrust washer against the crankshaft when installing the thrust washers.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 17. Install the center main bearing cap, with bearing insert and the correct thrust washer sections in place, and torque the bearing capscrews to specification.

273

18. Recheck the end play to ensure the thrust washers have been installed correctly and that end play is within specification. Rotate the crankshaft to ensure there is no binding.

CHECKING RUNNING CLEARANCE

When using the Plastigage method of checking running clearance, do not turn the crankshaft.

Doing so will destroy the Plastigage.

1. Use Plastigage to check the main bearing clearance. Check each bearing, one at a time, by placing a piece of Plastigage on the journal and tightening the cap in place. The bearing clearance is determined by measuring the width of the crushed Plastigage with the supplied gauge.

2. Place a section of Plastigage (2) on the journal to be checked and assemble the main bearing cap (1) to the cylinder block as shown in Figure 273.

3. Apply a light coat of oil on the threads of the bearing cap capscrews and secure the cap.

4. Tighten the capscrews to the specified torque, using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent. The Plastigage strip will be crushed between the bearing insert (3) and the crankshaft journal (4).

Figure 273 — Checking Running Clearance with Plastigage 1. Main Bearing Cap 2. Plastigage

3. Bearing Insert 4. Crankshaft Journal

5. Remove the capscrews and cap, and check the bearing running clearance.

6. Check the width of the Plastigage using a Plastigage width chart. After measuring width, remove the Plastigage from the bearing.

7. If the clearance is not within specification, correct the clearance as required. Be sure to use the proper size bearing(s). r

If the clearance is less than specified, check behind the bearing for dirt, chips or burrs which would prevent the bearing from seating properly.

r

If the bearing bores and inserts are clean and undamaged, replace the inserts with inserts sized to provide the specified clearance.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 8. Reposition the cap on the journal. Lubricate the capscrews with clean engine oil of the proper specification. Lubricate and install the bearing cap buttress capscrews as required, finger-tight. Install the bearing cap capscrews and tighten to the specified torque value, using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

New standard bearing inserts (manufacturing date of 10-00 or later) are 0.0006 inch larger than the old standard bearings. These new bearings reduce the bearing running clearance to provide a slight increase in engine oil pressure. This reduction of bearing running clearance makes it absolutely essential that Plastigage check be performed to verify that a minimum running clearance of 0.0018 inch (0.045 mm) is maintained.

Refer to Figure 274.

There are two buttress capscrew dimensions: r

LH side 2, 3, 5, 6 and RH side 5 and 6 (6 total) are 80 mm long (1).

r

RH side FRT 2 and 3 (2 total) are 110 mm long (2).

274

Figure 274 — Buttress Capscrew Locations 1. 80-mm Buttress Capscrews

Page 206

2. 110-mm Buttress Capscrews

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 9. After obtaining the proper main bearing clearance at all seven journal locations, check the torque of the main bearing capscrews, using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

10. Tighten the buttress capscrews to the specified torque, using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

Piston and Connecting Rod Installation SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED r

Piston Ring Compressor J 23442 or Piston Ring Compressor PT7070-A

r

Torque Angle Gauge BT91104

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE 1. Rotate the crankshaft so that the journals for the No. 1 and No. 6 cylinders are at bottom dead center (BDC) (Figure 275).

2. Place the piston marked No. 1 on a clean, flat surface. Rest the piston and rod assembly on the piston crown with the rod upward.

3. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to the piston and rings.

4. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to the inside surface of the piston ring compressor, J 23442, PT7070-A, or equivalent.

5. Install the ring compressor by slipping it over the rod and down over the piston skirt.

Continue to slide the tool downward, carefully guiding the rings into the ring grooves until the tool contacts the surface on which the piston crown is resting.

6. Position the upper bearing insert into the connecting rod. Align the tab in the bearing insert with the notch in the rod. Be sure that the hole in the bearing aligns with the oil passage in the rod.

275

The hole in the upper connecting rod bearing must be aligned with the oil passage in the connecting rod. Otherwise, damage to the bearing, rod and crankshaft journal will result.

7. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to the bearing surface.

8. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to the inside surface of the No. 1 cylinder sleeve.

9. With the ring compressor (2) in place, position the piston and rod assembly (1) into the No. 1 cylinder as shown in Figure 276 until the compressor contacts the top of the sleeve. The arrow and word FRONT on both the piston crown and the connecting rod must be facing the front of the engine.

Figure 275 — No. 1 Cylinder (Crankshaft at BDC) 1. Crankshaft

2. No. 1 Journal

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 276

Figure 276 — Piston and Connecting Rod Installation 1. Connecting Rod Assembly 2. Piston Ring Compressor Tool

10. Make sure the connecting rod is aligned with the crankshaft journal.

11. While applying downward pressure to the ring compression tool (1) to keep it in contact with the cylinder sleeve as shown in Figure 277, use a hammer handle to push the piston (2) through the tool. Continue pushing on the piston until the top ring has passed into the cylinder sleeve.

Page 208

3. Cylinder Block

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 277

Figure 277 — Pushing Piston into Cylinder Sleeve 1. Piston Ring Compressor Tool 2. Piston

3. Cylinder Block

278

Do not force the piston. This indicates an incorrectly aligned ring. Remove the piston assembly, correct the problem, and then reinstall it. Make sure the compressor tool remains in contact with the cylinder sleeve until the piston clears the tool. If contact is not maintained, damage to the rings may result.

Before pushing the piston all the way down in the sleeve, check to see if piston cooling nozzle (1) is aligned with the nozzle clearance notch (2) provided in the lower end of the piston skirt as shown in Figure 278. Damage to piston or spray nozzle may result if it is not aligned.

Figure 278 — Piston Skirt/Cooling Nozzle Alignment 1. Cooling Nozzle 2. Clearance Notch

3. Connecting Rod

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 12. Align the rod with the crankshaft journal and continue pushing the piston into the sleeve while guiding the rod end to clear the piston cooling nozzle and seat properly on the crankshaft journal.

13. Ensure that the correct rod bearing lower insert (matched to upper insert) and the alignment sleeves are positioned in the bearing cap.

14. Begin by installing the bearing cap at the No. 1 connecting rod journal (Figure 279) and check Running Clearance following the procedure later in this section. Repeat the running clearance check following the installation of each of the remaining five pistons.

Running clearance must be checked after installing each piston. Damage to engine may result if clearance is not within specification.

To provide strict control of capscrew torque and ensure that optimum clamp load is obtained, an angle torque value has been established for the 14 mm full threaded capscrew. Torque value for the connecting rod capscrew is as follows: r

30 lb-ft (41 N•m) plus 90 degrees

Special tool part No. BT91104, Torque Angle Gauge Set, is required to accurately torque the connecting rod bolts.

279

15. Repeat the above steps to install the No. 6 piston.

16. Rotate the crankshaft so that the journals for the No. 2 and No. 5 cylinders are at bottom dead center and install the No. 2 and No. 5 pistons following the above steps.

17. Rotate the crankshaft so that the journals for the No. 3 and No. 4 cylinders are at bottom dead center and install the No. 3 and No. 4 pistons, again following the above steps.

RUNNING CLEARANCE CHECK 1. Place a section of Plastigage on the rod cap bearing and assemble cap to the rod.

2. Apply a light coat of oil on the threads of the rod cap capscrews and secure the cap.

3. Angle torque the capscrews to 30 lb-ft (41 N•m) plus 90 degrees using torque angle gauge set BT91104, or equivalent.

The angle-torque method applies for 14-mm capscrew part Nos. 396GC211M and 396GC212M with partial and full threaded shanks, respectively. Intermixing the partial and full threaded 14-mm capscrews on the same connecting rod is permissible.

4. Remove the capscrews and cap.

5. Check the width of the Plastigage on the removed cap using a Plastigage width chart.

After measuring width, remove the Plastigage from the bearing.

6. If the clearance is not within specification, correct the clearance as required:

Figure 279 — Connecting Rod Cap Installation 1. Connecting Rod

Page 210

2. Bearing Cap

r

If the clearance is less than specified, check behind the bearing for dirt, chips or burrs which would prevent the bearing from seating properly.

r

If the bearing bores and inserts are clean and undamaged, replace the inserts with inserts sized to provide the specified clearance.

7. Reposition the cap on the journal. Lubricate capscrews with clean engine oil, install the capscrews and tighten to the specified torque, 30 lb-ft (41 N•m) plus 90 degrees using torque angle gauge set BT91104, or equivalent.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 9. The clearance must be within specification listed under Fits and Limits in the Specifications section. If not, recheck for proper cap and rod alignment.

If the cap and rod are not properly aligned, bearing and rod damage may result.

8. Check the rod side clearance (Figure 280) by installing a thickness gauge between the rod and the side of the journal. Check along the entire parting line area.

280

Flywheel Housing Installation INSPECTION Inspect the flywheel housing machined surfaces, capscrews, holes and dowel locations for cracks or wear. Replace if cracks are evident.

Before installing the flywheel housing, examine the crankshaft flange for any cracks, surface damage or presence of foreign particles. This type of damage could ruin the sealing capabilities of the seal and lead to oil leakage.

DOWEL PINS A combination of round- and blade-style locating dowel pins are used to install the front cover and flywheel housing. A blade-style pin is used for the flywheel. When installing the blade-style pins, make sure the blade is properly positioned: r

Vertically (pointing up and down) — for the front cover and flywheel housing

r

Parallel to crankshaft center line — for the flywheel

CAPSCREWS (FLYWHEEL HOUSING)

The flywheel housing castings are manufactured to use standardized housing mounting hardware as follows:

Figure 280 — Connecting Rod Side Clearance Check 1. Crankshaft Journal 2. Rod Bearing Cap

r

Two upper external mounting location capscrews — M3 (3 inches long)

r

Six internal mounting location capscrews — M (2 inches long)

r

Eight washers used with aluminum housing — part No. 35AX1489

3. Thickness Gauge

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS INSTALLATION 1. Remove the rear crankshaft oil seal from the flywheel housing by drilling two 3-mm holes, 180 degrees apart, into the outer edge of the seal. Remove the seal with a slide hammer fitted with a No. 10 sheet metal screw.

Thread it into each of the holes alternately and work the seal free.

4. Apply an even coat of Silastic® (approximately a 1/16-inch [2 mm] bead) to the flywheel housing mounting surface of the cylinder block. Refer to Figure 282.

282

2. Using standard shop cleaning procedures for aluminum, clean the seal mounting surface.

3. Insert the two dowel pins in the cylinder block if they were removed. Refer to Figure 281.

The flywheel housing dowels maintain the alignment of the flywheel housing on the engine.

This is necessary to center the transmission with respect to the engine flywheel and crankshaft.

281

Figure 282 — Applying Sealant

5. Align the flywheel housing on the dowels and position it flush against the cylinder block surface. Refer to Figure 283.

283

Figure 283 — Positioning Flywheel Housing

6. Install the flywheel housing six internal mounting capscrews and tighten them finger-tight. Leave out the upper two external mounting capscrews, as they are installed later with the aftercooler bracket.

Figure 281 — Flywheel Housing Installation 1. Cylinder Block 2. Flywheel Housing

Page 212

3. Dowel Pin 4. Capscrews

7. Tighten the six internal flywheel housing capscrews to the specified torque, 170 lb-ft (231 N•m), using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS RUNOUT

284

With the machined dowel method of installation, flywheel housing runout is well within the service specification of 0.010 inch (0.254 mm) Total Indicated Runout (TIR), when checked with an alignment bar through the cylinder block main bearing bores. However, when checking flywheel housing runout using a dial indicator on the crankshaft rear flange or the flywheel, results may exceed 0.010 inch (0.254 mm) due to factors such as crankshaft movement within the bearing clearances and other variables.

The dial indicator is the only method that can be used at this stage of assembly (with crankshaft in place). The machined dowel method requires that crankshaft and piston assemblies be removed.

Flywheel housing runout specifications are as follows: r

Runout checked with an alignment bar installed through the cylinder block main bearing bores: 0.010 inch (0.254 mm) TIR maximum. Refer to Figure 284.

r

Runout checked with a dial indicator (PT5035 with Z adapter PT5035-1) mounted on the crankshaft rear flange or flywheel as shown in Figure 285 is 0.020 inch (0.508 mm) TIR maximum. This way, the runout may appear to be excessive due to crankshaft movement within bearings and other variables.

Figure 284 — Flywheel Housing Runout Check with Alignment Bar

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 285

Special handling precautions must be taken while installing Teflon® seals. Do not lubricate the lips of a Teflon® seal before installation. Teflon® seals function most effectively when installed dry.

Standard-size Teflon® seals are shipped on a plastic installation sleeve. Do not remove the seal from the sleeve before installation. The installation sleeve provides a smooth surface for the seal as it moves from the tool to the crankshaft flange.

1. Thoroughly clean the surface of the crankshaft flange.

2. Position the oil seal (2) and installation sleeve (3) onto the recessed side of J 37716-B oil seal installation tool adapter plate (1) as shown in Figure 286. The singlelip seal must be installed with the lip toward the engine.

286

Figure 285 — Flywheel Housing Runout Check with Dial Indicator

Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation M-E7 engines are produced with Teflon® oil seals. Engines with dry flywheel housings use single-lip seals. Single-lip replacement seals are available in Viton or Teflon®. Viton seals are available with an oversized inside diameter and the corresponding wear ring.

SINGLE-LIP SEAL INSTALLATION Crankshaft design allows the single-lip seal to be installed at the production depth of 0.344 inch ± 0.005 inch (8.74 mm ± 0.127 mm), or a service depth of 0.250 inch ± 0.005 inch (6.35 mm ± 0.127 mm) from the rear outer edge of the crankshaft flange.

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Figure 286 — Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation 1. J 37716-B 2. Oil Seal

3. Installation Sleeve

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 3. Using the three guide pins, attach the adapter plate to the crankshaft flange. Refer to Figure 287.

Refer to Figure 288.

288

287

Figure 287 — Adapter Plate J 37716-B Installation

4. Determine the seal and wear ring installation depth: r

New seal on a new crankshaft or service crankshaft with a new wear ring — Install to the initial production depth of 0.339–0.349 inch (8.611–8.865 mm).

r

New seal on a service crankshaft with/ without a used wear ring — Install to the service depth of 0.245–0.255 inch (6.223–6.477 mm).

r

Wear ring installation depth — 0.15–0.220 inch (5.461–5.588 mm).

Figure 288 — Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal 1. Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal 2. Production Seal Installation Depth 3. Service Seal Installation Depth

4. Service Seal Installation Depth with Wear Ring 5. Wear Ring Installation Depth

5. The two installation depths are stamped above two of the guide pin bores on the installation tool press plate. To install the seal to the desired depth, position the press plate so that the guide pins go through the bore stamped with the desired depth.

6. Install the press plate driver hex nut and continue tightening until a positive stop is felt. At this point, the seal is installed to the proper depth.

7. Remove the installation tool.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Flywheel Installation

289

INSTALLATION

When installing the flywheel, insert two alignment studs into the flywheel mounting holes to aid in installation.

Refer to Figure 289.

1. Position the flywheel on the rear of the crankshaft at the flywheel mounting surface.

2. Install flywheel mounting capscrews in the exposed mounting holes. At this time, tighten the capscrews finger-tight only.

3. Remove the two alignment studs and insert the remaining mounting capscrews.

Do not torque capscrews adjacent to each other in sequence as uneven flywheel alignment may result. Alternately torque capscrews on opposite sides of the flywheel.

Figure 289 — Flywheel Installation

4. Torque the capscrews to 185 lb-ft (251 N•m), alternating from opposite sides to apply even pressure to the flywheel (use torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent).

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Camshaft Installation

290

DESCRIPTION The M-E7 camshaft design uses large journals to decrease bearing loading and to allow for larger, more durable cam lobes. Both the camshaft driven gear and the fuel injection pump driving gear are pressed onto the shaft.

Minimum Acceptable Cam Lobe Lift Camshaft Part No. 454GC5205

Exhaust and Intake Lobe 0.300 inch

(7.62 mm)

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED r

Tappet Holders J 37720-B

r

Camshaft Removal/Installation Tool J 41461

INSPECTION 1. Thoroughly clean the camshaft.

2. Inspect the camshaft cam lobes. Replace the camshaft if cam lobes show evidence of cracking, pitting or scoring.

3. Inspect the journals. Replace the camshaft if the journals are scored or worn.

Figure 290 — Crankshaft Drive Gear Alignment

4. Use standard magnaflux inspection procedures to detect cracks.

INSTALLATION 1. With the cylinder block in the stand, rotate the stand so that the crankcase is upward (engine inverted).

2. Rotate the crankshaft so that the drive gear timing mark is aligned with the camshaft opening. Refer to Figure 290.

Arrange valve lifters so that they can be identified and reinstalled into the same holes from which they came.

3. Clean the valve lifters. Lubricate the valve lifters by dipping them in clean engine oil, and insert them into the valve lifter holes in the block.

Visually check the camshaft to be sure that the two camshaft gears and the captured thrust washer are in place on the shaft.

4. Lubricate the camshaft journals and the camshaft bearing surfaces with clean engine oil.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

Make sure oil is applied 360 degrees around the lobes and journals. Lubri-plate type break-in grease may be substituted for engine oil.

5. Carefully insert the camshaft into the block using installation guide tool J 41461. Align the timing marks on the camshaft with the timing mark on the crankshaft main drive gear.

Refer to Figure 291.

The use of the installation tool makes it easy to slide the camshaft into the block while protecting the camshaft and bushings from damage.

6. Secure the camshaft captured thrust washer to the block using the two patch-lock 12-point capscrews and hardened washers.

Torque to 15 lb-ft (20 N•m) using torque wrench J 24406, or equivalent.

Auxiliary Driveshaft Installation INSPECTION 1. Using standard shop procedures, thoroughly clean auxiliary driveshaft.

2. Inspect auxiliary driveshaft journals, gear teeth and splines for evidence of cracks, pitting, scoring or severe wear. Replace auxiliary driveshaft if any of these conditions exist.

3. Use magnaflux (PT7190, or equivalent) inspection procedures to detect cracks.

291

Note the oil feed hole in the oil metering plug at the rear of the auxiliary shaft. If this hole is plugged up, the raw water pump may fail from oil starvation. Also, the loss of oil pressure that results from a missing plug can cause damage and problems in other components and parts.

Make sure the plug is not missing or the metering hole is not plugged. If replacing the auxiliary driveshaft, make sure to install a new plug.

292

Figure 291 — Alignment of Timing Marks

Figure 292 — Auxiliary Driveshaft Oil Metering Plug 1. Correctly Installed Oil Metering Plug

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS INSTALLATION

Refer to Figure 294.

Refer to Figure 293.

3. Install thrust washer (4) and secure it in position with the patch-lock capscrews (3) and hardened washers.

Purchase the auxiliary driveshaft as an assembly only. Do not try to dismantle or rework as it may result in damage to the engine.

1. Lubricate front auxiliary driveshaft journal (2), rear auxiliary driveshaft journal (4) and shaft bearings (in cylinder block) with clean engine oil.

2. Install shaft (3) into the rear of auxiliary driveshaft housing. Take care when aligning shaft through rear bearing (1).

293

4. Torque the thrust washer retaining patchlock capscrews to 15 lb-ft (20 N•m) using torque wrench J 24406, or equivalent.

5. Install auxiliary driveshaft gear (2) on shaft splines (5).

The auxiliary driveshaft and nut threads must be clean and dry before assembly. Clean the threads thoroughly with Brakleen® or electrical contact cleaner. Apply Loctite® 271 or 277 to the threads and install the nut.

6. Install auxiliary driveshaft nut (1) and torque to 300 lb-ft (407 N•m) using torque wrench J 23775-01, or equivalent.

294

Figure 294 — Auxiliary Driveshaft Gear Installation Figure 293 — Auxiliary Driveshaft Installation 1. Rear Bearing 2. Auxiliary Driveshaft Front Journal 3. Shaft

4. Auxiliary Driveshaft Rear Journal 5. Oil Metering Cup Plug 6. Oil Pump Drive Gear

1. Nut 2. Auxiliary Driveshaft Gear 3. Capscrew

4. Thrust Washer 5. Shaft Splines

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Oil Pump Installation

1. Position the oil pump (1) on the cylinder block (3). Refer to Figure 295.

Make sure the oil pump is in satisfactory condition as covered under Lubrication System Components Inspection.

Because of differences in M-E7 engine oil pump gear set helixes, it is important that the correct component/part is installed. r

An improper drive gear on the oil pump prevents oil pump installation, assuming a correct gear is on the auxiliary shaft.

r

If an oil pump and an auxiliary shaft assembly were replaced, two improper gears could be installed, and engine failure would result.

r

In replacing any of these critical parts, always refer to part number information in the MACK Parts System to ensure the correct component/part is being used.

2. Secure the pump in position using the mounting capscrews (2). Tighten the mounting capscrews to the specified torque, 40 lb-ft (54 N•m), using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

Apply Loctite® 271 to all capscrews used to install the oil pump.

295

Figure 295 — Oil Pump Installation 1. Lubrication Oil Pump 2. Mounting Capscrews

Page 220

3. Cylinder Block

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Crankshaft Front Seal Installation After the oil pump has been installed, check the backlash between the auxiliary shaft gear and the oil pump driven gear.

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED r

Crankshaft Front Seal Installer J 37715-A

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE 3. Check the auxiliary shaft gear to oil pump driven gear backlash, 0.006–0.016 inch (0.15–0.41 mm), using a thickness gauge between the auxiliary shaft gear and the oil pump driven gear.

Timing Gear Cover Installation

Refer to Figure 296.

1. Position the lip-type seal on the seal installer, with the solid portion of the seal outward (toward the tool).

2. Position the tool over hub and into the seal opening.

296

With the crankshaft, camshaft and auxiliary driveshaft in place, install the timing gear cover.

Remove the injection pump cover (if installed) from the timing cover to allow access to the injection pump drive gear during injection pump installation.

1. Apply a light coat of Silastic to the timingcover mounting surface.

2. Position the timing cover on the cylinderblock mounting surface.

Some mounting capscrews cannot be installed until the injection pump is installed.

3. Secure the timing cover to the cylinder block using the mounting capscrews. Torque the capscrews to 40 lb-ft (54 N•m) using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

4. Position the front pedestal mount on the timing cover and secure with the mounting hardware. Torque the front support bracket (pedestal mounting) capscrews to 70 lb-ft (95 N•m) using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

Figure 296 — Crankshaft Front Seal Installation 1. Front Cover Seal 2. Seal Installer J 37715-A

3. Front Cover

3. Insert the hub capscrew into the hole in the seal installation tool and draw the seal in until the tool bottoms out on the face of the crankshaft.

4. Remove the tool and check the seal to ensure it has been evenly installed.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Crankshaft Hub Installation

297

INSPECTION Inspect the crankshaft hub for scoring and condition of flange, threaded holes and keyway.

Replace the hub if the seal shows signs of wear.

Mack Trucks, Inc. does not recommend the use of a service sleeve to repair the crankshaft hub when there is hub damage. When there is damage to the hub, replace it.

Figure 297 — Crankshaft Hub/Vibration Damper

INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 297.

1. Insert hub key in keyway of the crankshaft.

2. Using a suitable grease-type lubricant, coat the working surface of the seal in preparation for crankshaft hub installation.

1. Crankshaft 2. Key 3. Crankshaft Hub 4. Vibration Damper

5. Pulley 6. Hub Capscrew 7. Damper/Puller Capscrews

Vibration Damper Installation DESCRIPTION

5. In a quick, even motion, push the hub onto the crankshaft.

The vibration damper is mounted to the front of the engine crankshaft hub and secured with six capscrews. The viscous-type vibration damper consists of a flywheel (inertia mass) enclosed in a fluid-tight housing. The vibration damper flywheel and the housing are separated by a thin layer of viscous fluid that is not affected by temperature changes. Any movement of the inertia mass is resisted by the friction of the fluid, which tends to dampen excessive torsional vibrations in the crankshaft.

6. Install hub washer and capscrew. Tighten capscrew to 360 lb-ft (488 N•m) using torque wrench J 23775-01, or equivalent.

The vibration damper must be removed whenever the crankshaft front seal, timing gear cover or crankshaft are removed.

Teflon-type seals do not require greasing the seal working surface of the crankshaft hub.

3. Heat hub to approximately 250°F (121°C) prior to installation.

4. Using heat-resistant gloves, align keyway in the hub with key in the shaft.

When removing or handling the vibration damper, be careful not to damage the housing. Any dents in the damper outer case may render the vibration damper ineffective. An ineffective vibration damper may result in crankshaft cracks.

The vibration damper cannot be repaired.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS INSPECTION

DESCRIPTION (ISOLATING OIL PAN GASKET)

Inspect the vibration damper for dents, nicks or fluid leaks in the outer housing. If any of the above are evident, the vibration damper must be replaced. Due to the close clearances between the damper housing and its internal flywheel, dents or nicks may cause contact between the two components. Fluid loss will deteriorate the dampening effect of the damper.

Reducing oil pan vibration is an important step in reducing engine noise and ensuring oil pan integrity, especially at the high power levels of today’s engines. For this reason, the isolating oil pan gasket arrangement is used on all engines.

INSTALLATION 1. Position the vibration damper and drive pulley on the crankshaft hub.

2. Secure with six mounting capscrews.

Torque screws to 45 lb-ft (61 N•m).

Oil Pan Installation

The oil pan used on the MackPower™ M-E7 marine engine has a special nickel coating applied before being painted. Do not replace this oil pan with the automotive version of the pan. Do not use heavy abrasives to clean or remove the finish of this pan. Heavy abrasives can remove the nickel coating and cause subsequent oil pan corrosion.

Most noticeable about this arrangement is the use of a 1/4-inch (6.35 mm) thick rubber gasket and the elimination of the reinforcement strip on the pan rail and the belly bands on the oil pan.

The thicker, more conformable isolating gasket will substantially improve sealing, especially over a long period of time.

Serviceability is also improved. When the oil pan is removed, unlike the fiber gasket, it is not necessary to scrape the gasket from the cylinder block and the oil pan. In fact, this gasket, in most cases, can be reused.

Also used are shouldered oil pan bolts that bottom on the cylinder block rather than the oil pan, and rubber isolators installed between the heads of the pan bolts and the oil pan. Together, these isolators and the isolating gasket eliminate metal-to-metal contact between the bolts and the oil pan, significantly reducing the amount of engine vibration transmitted to the pan.

Figure 298 shows both the fiber oil pan gasket arrangement and the isolating oil pan gasket arrangement.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 298

Figure 298 — Oil Pan Gasket Arrangements A. Fiber Gasket Arrangement 1. Fiber Gasket Cylinder Block 2. Fiber Gasket 3. Steel Reinforcement Strip 4. Flange Head Screw 5. Fiber Gasket Oil Pan

With the isolating oil pan gasket arrangement, the mounting holes tapped into the cylinder block, timing gear cover, and flywheel housing are 8 mm. Figure 299 shows the isolating oil pan arrangement.

Page 224

B. Isolating Gasket Arrangement 6. Isolating Gasket Cylinder Block 7. Thicker Gasket 8. Isolator 9. Flanged Bolt 10. Isolator Gasket Oil Pan

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 299

Figure 299 — Oil Pan Stud Identification

The isolating oil pan gasket contains 12 integral locating/retaining cones which lock into holes drilled through the oil pan rails, and two large rectangular tabs located directly across from each other on the inner perimeter of the gasket.

The cones keep the gasket properly located during oil pan installation, and the rectangular tabs serve as a starting point for locating the gasket on the oil pan rail.

OIL PAN INSTALLATION 1. Clean any oil from the cylinder block mounting surface and the oil pan rail. The oil pan must be installed dry.

Oil on the surface of the gasket or the rails of the cylinder block and oil pan during oil pan installation can cause the gasket to bulge out between any two bolts, particularly those at the mid-section corners. This condition may not occur immediately, but can do so at any time after installation. To avoid this occurrence, wipe any oil from the inner walls of the cylinder block crankcase and then clean the rails of the cylinder block and oil pan with a solvent such as lacquer thinner. Dry the cleaned surfaces completely.

2. Position the isolating oil pan gasket on the oil pan rails with ribbed side facing up.

3. Beginning at the center of the pan at one of the rectangular tabs, align rubber locating cones with corresponding holes in the oil pan rails.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 4. In one motion, firmly press upper portion of the gasket with one hand while carefully pulling the rubber cone through the hole with the other hand until seated. Continue this procedure for the remaining locating cones.

301

300

Figure 300 — Locating Cone Installation

5. After all cones have been installed, recheck to ensure they are all properly seated.

6. When installing oil pan onto the engine, center the pan before tightening fasteners so that the edges of the metal isolator washers do not touch the pan. Refer to Figure 301.

Figure 301 — Checking Clearance 1. Cylinder Block 2. Oil Pan

3. Rubber Gasket

When replacing a timing gear cover or a flywheel housing on an engine equipped with an isolating oil pan gasket, first remove the oil pan to prevent damaging the rubber isolating oil pan gasket.

To prevent damaging the threads in the aluminum timing gear cover and the aluminum flywheel housing, be sure to use the designated studs rather than capscrews.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Cylinder Head Installation

INSTALLATION

DESCRIPTION

Ensure that the cylinder heads are in acceptable condition. Refer to the cylinder head inspection procedures in “CYLINDER HEAD OVERHAUL” on page 157.

Each cylinder head is a one-piece casting covering three cylinders and securely held to the top of the cylinder block by special-head bolts.

The inlet and exhaust valves and fuel injection nozzles are located in the cylinder heads. Valve seat inserts and valve guides are replaceable.

Cast-iron sleeves pass through the coolant cavity of the cylinder head at the center of each cylinder. The fuel injection nozzle holder assemblies are installed in these sleeves. The sleeve design and installation provides effective cooling for the fuel injection nozzles, valves and cylinder head. This sleeve also provides a sealed passage for the nozzle return-to-tank fuel, which passes from the nozzle sleeve chamber into a drilled fuel return passage in the cylinder head and back to the fuel tank.

The air inlet, coolant and exhaust manifolds are secured to the cylinder heads. The fuel inlet lines also enter the engine at the cylinder heads.

All M-E7 head gaskets are precoated and do not require any type of additional sealing compound.

Refer to Figure 302.

1. Place the head gaskets in position on the locating pins in the cylinder block deck.

2. Place a fire ring carefully in position on top of each cylinder sleeve.

Check that the design of the fire ring used is the correct match for the cylinder sleeves installed.

3. Position the completely assembled cylinder heads on the cylinder block. Locate the heads into the guide pins in the cylinder block.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 302

Figure 302 — Cylinder Head Gasket and Fire Ring Positioning 1. Cylinder Head 2. Gasket

3. Fire Ring 4. Cylinder Block

Several of the head mounting capscrews have threaded holes drilled in the heads for bracketmounting purposes. The drilled capscrews must be located in the correct positions for proper bracket installation.

Do not install painted capscrews at locations that are under the valve cover.

There are two cylinder-head capscrew lengths: 198.0 mm and 225.0 mm.

4. Check the condition of the capscrews, lubricate the capscrew heads (underside), threads and washers with clean engine oil, and insert the capscrews in the mounting holes. Tighten all cylinder head capscrews finger-tight.

Page 228

Refer to Figure 303.

5. Check the alignment of the cylinder heads by placing a straightedge against the exhaust manifold mounting surfaces. Using a feeler gauge, measure any gaps between the straightedge and manifold mounting surfaces. The heads should be in alignment within 0.005 inch (0.127 mm). If not, reposition the heads to achieve the specified alignment.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 303

Figure 303 — Cylinder Head Alignment 1. Straightedge 2. Cylinder Head

Refer to Figure 304.

6. Torque all head mounting capscrews in three stages to the specified torque. a.

Torque all head mounting capscrews in sequence to 50 lb-ft (68 N•m) using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

b.

Torque all head mounting capscrews in sequence to 125 lb-ft (170 N•m) using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

c.

Torque all head mounting capscrews in sequence to final torque value of 195–215 lb-ft (264–292 N•m) using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

3. Cylinder Block

8. After completing the run-in procedure, retorque the cylinder head capscrews in sequence, breaking each loose one at a time and then bringing it up to the specified torque.

7. Perform the engine run-in procedure, bringing temperatures up to the normal operating range.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 304

Figure 304 — Head Bolt Torque Sequence Chart

Push Rod Installation

Valve Yoke Installation

INSPECTION

DESCRIPTION

Check the push rods. Replace any push rods that have loose ends, are bent, or show signs of excessive wear.

There are two exhaust valves and two inlet valves for each cylinder. Each rocker arm, in conjunction with the valve yoke, operates both valves together, in a set (exhaust or inlet), per cylinder.

INSTALLATION INSTALLATION

Used push rods have established wear patterns.

Push rods being returned to service should be installed in the same position from which they were removed.

1. Apply lubricating oil to spherical end of the push rod and insert it into the lifter opening.

Ensure that it has engaged the lifter by lifting it slightly. If the lifter has been properly contacted, some resistance will be felt in the rod as the lifter is raised.

2. Repeat step 1 until all 12 push rods are in position.

Page 230

Used yokes have established wear patterns.

Yokes being returned to service should be installed in the same position from which they were removed.

Refer to Figure 305.

1. Lubricate the yoke guide pins (6) with clean engine oil.

2. Place the valve yokes (2) on the yoke guide pins from which they were removed. Slightly rock the yokes from side to side to be sure they are seated on the valve stems (5).

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 3. Lubricate the threads of the rocker arm bracket mounting capscrews with clean engine oil. Install the capscrews and torque to specification using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

305

4. Adjust valve lash settings as applicable.

Refer to “ENGINE SETUP AND ADJUSTMENTS” on page 270 for correct specification.

306

Figure 305 — Valve Yoke 1. Rocker Arm 2. Valve Yoke 3. Yoke Adjusting Screw

4. Jam Nut 5. Valve Stem 6. Yoke Guide Pin

Rocker Arm Installation DESCRIPTION The valve rockers pivot on a shaft supported by three brackets per cylinder head. Two capscrews secure each bracket to the cylinder head. The rocker arms are operated by a camshaft through valve lifters and push rods extending through the cylinder heads. A coil spring returns each valve to the closed position, holding the rocker arm in contact with the push rod.

Figure 306 — Valve Rocker Arm Installation

INSTALLATION Refer to Figure 306.

1. Position the rocker arm assemblies on the cylinder heads.

2. Ensure that the ball end of the rocker arm adjusters are in position in the push rod cups.

Make sure that adjusting screws are retracted upward in the rocker arms. If extended far below rocker arm, the push rods can be bent when tightening the rocker arm assembly brackets.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Nozzle Holder Assembly Installation DESCRIPTION Each cylinder has a nozzle to ensure proper delivery of fuel that is metered and timed by the injection pump. The nozzle is positioned at the lower end of the nozzle holder.

2. Lubricate the nozzle holder surface and install O-ring on the nozzle holder.

3. Thread injection nozzle puller J 37093 into the top of nozzle holder. Refer to Figure 308.

308

The nozzle holder is positioned vertically in the cylinder head and centered in the cylinder between the four valves. The nozzle fuel inlet tube is inserted through the side of the cylinder head and the tapered end of the inlet tube seals the area between the tube and the nozzle holder.

The tube is secured in position with a sleeve nut.

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED r

Injection Nozzle Puller J 37093

INSTALLATION 1. Insert a nozzle holder gasket in the bottom of the nozzle holder hole. Refer to Figure 307. Make sure the washer-type gasket is lying flat in the bottom of the nozzle holder bore.

An alternate method of installing the washer-type gasket is to hold it in place on the bottom of the nozzle with a small dab of grease instead of placing the washer in the hole.

307

Figure 308 — Puller Application 1. Nozzle Holder Puller J 37093

2. Nozzle Holder

4. Insert nozzle holder in the nozzle holder hole. Be sure to align the locator ball in the nozzle holder with the socket in the cylinder head to ensure inlet tube alignment. Refer to Figure 309.

Figure 307 — Nozzle Holder Gasket Installation

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 309

r

If the gauge block is too high, it may indicate that there are two gaskets installed under the nozzle holder, or the nozzle holder has not been fully inserted.

r

If a gauge block is not available, measure the distance from the top of the cylinder head to the top of the nozzle holder. The nominal measurement should be 0.564 inch (14.326 mm).

311

Figure 309 — Nozzle Holder Alignment

5. After making sure that the nozzle holder ball is properly aligned with the alignment socket in the cylinder head, push downward on the handle of the installation tool driving the nozzle holder into position. Refer to Figure 310.

310

Figure 311 — Nozzle Holder Installation Check 1. Nozzle Holder Puller J 37093

2. Gauge Block

8. Lubricate the threads of the retaining plug and install in position. Torque to 45 lb-ft (61 N•m) using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent. Refer to Figure 312.

312

Figure 310 — Nozzle Holder Installation

6. Remove the tool from the nozzle holder and insert the gauge block on the end of the tool handle.

7. Insert the gauge block into the nozzle holder hole. The gauge block should be flush with the top of the cylinder head surface. Refer to Figure 311. r

If the gauge block is below level, it may indicate that the gasket was omitted.

Figure 312 — Retaining Plug Installation

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Valve Cover Installation

The valve cover requires a strip-type seal valve cover gasket, 51 inches (130 cm) in length.

Sealing compounds are not necessary.

2. Position the valve covers on the cylinder heads.

3. Lubricate threads of the capscrews and secure the valve covers with the lubricated capscrews. Torque capscrews to 16 lb-ft (22 N•m).

Fuel Injection Pump Installation INSTALLATION

INSTALLATION

To install the fuel injection pump:

Refer to Figure 313.

a.

Thoroughly clean the gasket contact surface.

1. Rotate the engine in the direction of normal rotation (clockwise) bringing up the No. 1 piston on the compression stroke and alignment of the timing indicator is set to desired timing.

b.

Install one end of valve cover gasket into seal groove (inboard side) approximately 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) from the end of the groove.

2. Install the injection pump/hub assembly over the mounting studs and move the pump forward until the pump mounting surface contacts the block.

c.

Guide the seal strip into the groove around the circumference of the valve cover. Complete installation and overlap at the starting point approximately 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) from the end of the groove.

1. Install a seal strip (2) in the valve cover seal groove (3) of the valve cover (1).

Be careful not to damage the injection pump O-ring during injection pump installation.

3. Install the washers and nuts to all mounting studs and check that the pump mounting surface is flush with the block.

313

314

Figure 313 — Gasket Installation 1. Valve Cover 2. Seal Strip

Page 234

3. Seal Groove

Figure 314 — Pump Mounting Surface Flush with Block

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 4. Torque the mounting stud nuts to specification.

315

6. Align the fixed timing probe in the fixing plate opening. Verify that the sensor is correctly aligned with the locating groove in the governor housing.

317

Figure 315 — Torquing Mounting Studs

5. Remove fixing plate plug (right-hand rear of pump) using an 8-mm Allen wrench.

Figure 317 — Locating Groove at 12 O’Clock

7. To install the fixed timing probe, slowly turn the knurled surface clockwise.

316

318

Figure 316 — Removing Fixing Plate Plug Figure 318 — Installing Fixed Timing Probe

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 8. Connect fixed timing sensor tester ground to engine and press power switch on.

319

10. Continue rotating injection pump until both “A” and “B” lamps are lit. The pump is now positioned at port closure on number one cylinder. There is only a very small band of rotation when both lamps are lit.

321

Figure 319 — Connecting Tester to Ground

9. Rotate the injection pump in clockwise direction (normal engine rotation). Light “A” will light first if the injection pump is being rotated in the correct direction. This indicates that the injection pump is very near port closure.

320

Figure 320 — Rotating Pump in Clockwise Direction

Page 236

Figure 321 — Both “A” and “B” Lamps Lit

11. Install the pump driven gear on the drive hub so that the slots in the gear are centered about the screw holes in the hub.

322

Figure 322 — Installing Pump Driven Gear

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 323

324

Figure 323 — Slots Centered with Screw Holes

Figure 324 — Installing Capscrews

Pump driven gear alignment dowels can be used for ease of installation.

Care should be taken so that pump driven gearto-hub capscrews and washers are not dropped into engine during installation.

12. Install the pump driven gear-to-hub capscrews snugly to remove clearance, but also allow relative motion between the gear and hub.

325

Figure 325 — Tightening Capscrews

Page 237

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 13. Rotate pump hub opposite normal rotation (counterclockwise) until capscrews bottom in the end of the slots in the gear. Both lamps will go out.

15. Torque the pump driven gear-to-hub capscrews to 40 lb-ft (54 N•m).

326

It is acceptable for lamps “A” and “B” to go out during the torquing procedure. Do not attempt to keep lamps lit. This may cause improper pumpto-engine timing.

328

Figure 326 — Rotating Pump Hub Counterclockwise (Lamps Out)

14. Rotate pump hub in the direction of normal rotation (clockwise) until “A” and “B” lamps are lit. There is only a very small band of rotation when both lamps are lit.

327

Figure 327 — Rotating Pump Hub Clockwise (Lamps Lit)

Page 238

Figure 328 — Tightening Capscrews to Final Torque

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CHECKING PUMP-TO-ENGINE TIMING

330

1. To check pump-to-engine timing, rotate the engine opposite normal direction of rotation (counterclockwise) a minimum of approximately 45 degrees. Both “A” and “B” lamps will go out.

329

Figure 330 — Checking Timing

3. If pump-to-engine timing is correct, turn the tester power off, disconnect tester ground, remove the fixed timing probe and reinstall fixing plate plug.

Figure 329 — Rotating Engine Counterclockwise

2. Rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise) until both “A” and “B” lamps are lit. The timing indicator should be at the desired timing. If timing is incorrect refer to Injection Pump Fixed Timing Procedures.

FUEL INJECTION PUMP ACCESS COVER INSTALLATION To install the fuel injection pump access cover: 1. Lubricate the access cover O-ring with Lubrizol® OS-50044, or equivalent.

2. Install pump access cover and capscrews.

Ensure that the mechanical tachometer drive hex-shaped drive pin has fully engaged the injection pump driven-gear retaining nut.

3. Torque access cover capscrews to specification using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 331

332

Figure 331 — Installing and Torquing Access Cover Capscrews

4. Connect fuel injection pump oil supply line.

Water Pump Installation Refer to Figure 332.

The water pump mounting capscrews should not be lubricated before installation. Instead, apply thread sealing compound to all water pump capscrews.

1. Position a gasket on the water pump mounting flange.

2. Position the water pump (9) on the cylinder block and install the lifting bracket (3) and one mounting capscrew (2) and water pump support bracket (5), retaining capscrew (4) and cylinder head capscrew.

Page 240

Figure 332 — Water Pump Assembly 1. Capscrew (Retains 6. Capscrew (Also Retains Bracket to Cylinder Heat Exchanger Head) Bracket) 2. Capscrew (Retains 7. Capscrew (Connects Bracket to Water Pump) Oil Cooler) 3. Engine Front Lifting 8. Coolant Drain Petcock Bracket 9. Water Pump 4. Capscrew (Also Retains 10. Water Pump-to-Exhaust Heat Exchanger Bracket) Manifold Inlet Pipe 5. Water Pump Support Bracket

The remaining water pump capscrews will be installed during the heat exchanger and oil cooler installation procedures.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Air Inlet Manifold Installation

Coolant Manifold Installation

Refer to Figure 333.

INSPECTION

1. Position a coolant/air inlet manifold gasket on the mounting surface of the front cylinder head. Place the front air inlet manifold section (11) into position on the cylinder head and insert the 12-point capscrews (12) and washers.

2. Torque capscrews to specification using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

3. Place the coupling (8) on the rear of the front air inlet manifold section (11). Assemble two spring clamps (7) on the coupling.

4. Position a coolant/air inlet manifold gasket on the mounting surface of the rear cylinder head. Install the rear air inlet manifold section (6).

5. Insert the 12-point capscrews (12) and torque to specification, using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

6. Torque T-Bolt type hose clamps per specification.

Check the coolant manifold sections for restrictions, cracks and flange wear. The manifold cannot be repaired. Replace if any signs of damage are present.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE Refer to Figure 333.

1. Ensure that the front coolant manifold section (1) is clean.

2. Lubricate threads of the capscrews (9) with clean engine oil and secure the front coolant manifold section (1) in place with the mounting capscrews.

3. Place coupling (3) in position on the coupling mounting flange. Place two spring clamps (2) over the coupling.

4. Insert the rear coolant manifold section (5) in the coupling.

5. Lubricate threads of the mounting capscrews (9) and secure the rear manifold section with the mounting capscrews.

6. Tighten all mounting capscrews to the specified torque, using torque wrench J 24406, or equivalent.

7. Ensure that the coupling is properly installed and secure it in position with spring clamps.

Tighten the clamps to specification.

Page 241

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 333

Figure 333 — Coolant and Air Inlet Manifold Installation 1. Coolant Manifold, Front Section 2. Clamp 3. Coupling 4. Exhaust Manifold Coolant Return Elbow 5. Coolant Manifold, Rear Section 6. Air Inlet Manifold, Rear Section

Thermostat, Housing and Seal Installation Refer to Figure 334.

1. When replacing a seal for any reason, examine the surface of the thermostat sleeve, the bore area and the seal to prevent premature failure of the new seal. A sealing lip that has been turned back, cut or otherwise damaged will leak and must be replaced. The lip faces the front of the engine.

2. Remove any surface nicks, burrs, sharp edges and tool marks from the thermostat sleeve and housing bore area using crocus cloth.

Page 242

7. Spring Clamp 8. Coupling 9. Capscrew 10. LDA Connection 11. Air Inlet Manifold, Front Section 12. Capscrew, 12-Point

3. Check to see that the replacement seals are free from any contaminants such as chips, grit, dust or any other debris that would prevent the seal from properly seating in the thermostat housing.

4. Press the seal into the housing bore with smooth, uniform pressure, using seal installation tool J 26637-A and driver handle J 8092.

Tool J 26637-A is designed to regulate the thermostat seal installation depth. The shoulder on the tool bottoms on the thermostat bore of the housing to prevent the seal from being installed too far.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 7. Position the housing assembly on the coolant manifold (7) mounting surface.

Wherever possible, an arbor press should be used to apply assembly pressure. The use of a hammer is not recommended since uneven pressure would be applied directly to seal surfaces. Precautions should be taken against cocking the seal throughout the installation operation. Make sure the seal is not cocked when installed.

5. Position the thermostat (5) into the housing (3) with the jiggle pin or caged ball up.

6. Install a gasket (6) on the housing mounting surface.

8. Secure in position with four mounting capscrews (11).

9. Apply thread sealing compound to the threads of the coolant conditioner inlet fitting (12) and then install into thermostat housing.

Position fitting so that it faces opposite side of engine toward coolant conditioner.

10. Connect coolant conditioner inlet hose to fitting and secure with hose clamp. Route the hose across the engine and locate other end near coolant conditioner. Clamp center of hose to engine front lifting bracket using a band clamp and securely tighten.

334

Figure 334 — Thermostat Housing Installation 1. Thermostat Hose 2. Spring Clamps 3. Thermostat Housing 4. Thermostat Seal 5. Thermostat

6. Gasket 7. Coolant Manifold 8. Spring Clamps 9. Oil Cooler Supply (By-Pass) Tube

10. Coupling Hose 11. Capscrew 12. Coolant Conditioner Inlet Fitting 13. Coolant Conditioner Inlet Hose

Page 243

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Gear Oil Cooler Installation

336

1. Obtain new pieces of 1/8-inch thick rubber pads 5.5 inches by 7 inches. Position the rubber pads onto the gear oil cooler support cradle welded to the front air inlet manifold as shown.

The number of pieces of rubber pads will depend on the size of gap between the cooler and its support. The first 20 production engines will require at least two or more pieces to fill this gap.

Ultimately one piece will be sufficient. This arrangement must have a minimum one rubber pad under the cooler to prevent damage from the support.

335

Figure 336 — Positioning Gear Oil Cooler

4. Wrap the 1 inch by 14.5 inch rubber pad around the gear oil cooler and the support cradle and secure in place with the oil cooler spring clamp. Torque clamp to specification.

337

Figure 335 — Install Rubber Pads

2. Obtain one new 1/8-inch thick rubber pad, 1 inch wide by 14.5 inches long.

3. Position the gear oil cooler and raw water inlet tube onto the rubber-protected support cradle.

Page 244

Figure 337 — Securing Gear Oil Cooler

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Heat Exchanger Installation 1. Position the heat exchanger support bracket to the water pump. Align the three support bracket-to-water pump bolt holes.

338

Make sure the rubber pads are centered and extend over the edges (ends) of the heat exchanger bracket supports.

5. If removed, install the thermostat housing-toheat exchanger coolant hose onto the exchanger neck and temporarily install the two spring clamps.

6. Position the heat exchanger onto the support bracket, and at the same time, install the heat exchanger hose and clamps to the thermostat housing. Make sure the isolating rubber pads remain centered and over the ends of the supports.

7. Position and tighten the two thermostat housing-to-heat exchanger hose spring clamps. Tighten the clamps to specification.

Figure 338 — Positioning Support Bracket

340

2. Install the three capscrews (and washers) that secure the heat exchanger support bracket and water pump to the engine block and tighten to specification.

339

Figure 340 — Positioning Heat Exchanger 1. Thermostat Housing-toHeat Exchanger Hose

Figure 339 — Installing Capscrews with Washers 1. Bracket Capscrew Locations

3. Obtain four new 1/8-inch thick rubber pads, two being one inch wide by 10.5 inches long and the other two being one inch wide by 14 inches long.

4. Place the two 10.5-inch long rubber pads onto the heat exchanger bracket supports.

2. Gear Oil Cooler-to-Heat Exchanger Hose

8. Position the two 14 inch by one inch wide rubber pads over the heat exchanger ends at the clamping area.

9. Install the heat exchanger spring clamps over the rubber isolating pads. Torque clamps to specification.

Make sure the rubber pads are centered and extend over the edges (ends) of the heat exchanger bracket supports.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 341

343

Figure 341 — Tightening Spring Clamps 1. Heat Exchanger-toBracket Spring Clamp

2. Heat Exchanger-toEngine Oil Cooler Inlet Hose

Aftercooler Installation 1. Position the aftercooler (and brackets) over the flywheel housing. Align the lower bracket holes with the external holes in the flywheel housing.

Figure 343 — Tightening Aftercooler Support Bolts

3. Place the machined spacer between the upper aftercooler support brace and cylinder head bolt. Install the support brace bolt through the brace and machined spacer into the cylinder head bolt. Tighten the support brace bolt to specification.

344

342

Figure 344 — Installing Aftercooler Brace Bolt and Spacer

Figure 342 — Positioning Aftercooler

2. While supporting the aftercooler, install the aftercooler bracket and flywheel housing bolts through the flywheel housing into the block. Tighten the bolts to specification.

Page 246

4. Place air inlet hose couplings onto either end of air inlet tube with spring clamps.

5. Install the air inlet tube and couplings to the outlet neck of the aftercooler and the inlet neck of the front air inlet manifold.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Exhaust Manifold Installation

345

1. Install two long guide studs (of the same thread as the manifold capscrews) into the exhaust manifold bolt holes next to number two and four exhaust ports in the cylinder heads. Place them in the holes fourth back from the front on the bottom and second back from the front on the top, as shown in Figure 347.

347

Figure 345 — Air Inlet Tube Installation

6. Position the front air inlet hose spring clamps so that the spring portion of the clamps face forward. Position the rear air inlet hose spring clamps so that the spring portion of the clamps face outward. Tighten the spring clamps to specification.

346

Figure 347 — Exhaust Manifold Guide Stud Position

2. Position two exhaust manifold gaskets, one on each cylinder head, over the guide studs.

3. Position the exhaust manifold over the guide studs.

348

Figure 346 — Correctly Positioned Spring Clamps 1. Air Inlet Tube Front Hose Spring Clamps

2. Air Inlet Tube Rear Hose Spring Clamps

7. Connect the gear oil cooler coupling to the aftercooler raw water outlet. Position and then tighten the two spring clamps to specification.

Figure 348 — Positioning Exhaust Manifold

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 4. Install and finger-tighten the 155-mm, 165-mm and 175-mm capscrews into the proper exhaust manifold locations. At this time, do not install the upper front two 165-mm capscrews that support the fuel filter adapter and coolant conditioner adapter bracket or the two lower center 165-mm capscrews that attach the rear fuel injection line brackets.

Engine Oil Fill Tube Installation 1. Apply MACK Silastic RTV silicone adhesive sealant to the flange of the engine oil fill tube and secure with two capscrews. Tighten to specification.

350

Do not tighten the exhaust manifold capscrews until the fuel lines are installed and torqued to the cylinder heads. Refer to “Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly Installation” on page 249 to complete exhaust manifold installation.

349

Figure 350 — Installing Engine Oil Fill Tube

2. Install the oil fill tube cap and tighten.

Injection Pump Throttle Return to Idle Mechanism Installation

Figure 349 — Exhaust Manifold Capscrew Locations 1. Capscrew Length of 175 mm (6.98 inches) 2. Capscrew Length of 165 mm (6.50 inches)

3. Capscrew Length of 155 mm (6.10 inches) 4. Manifold Guide Stud Locations

1. Install the throttle return to idle spring bracket (1), secure with capscrews and tighten to specification. Install the throttle return to idle pivot lever bracket (2) to the cylinder block, secure the bracket with capscrews and tighten to specification.

351

5. Remove the guide studs.

Figure 351 — Throttle Return to Idle Brackets 1. Throttle Return to Idle Spring Bracket

Page 248

2. Throttle Return to Idle Pivot Lever Bracket

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 2. Install the throttle return to idle spring (1) to the bracket and the middle hole of the idle return pivot lever. Install the throttle return spring (2) to the throttle lever on the injection pump and to the top hole of the idle return pivot lever. Install the throttle return cable (3) onto the throttle lever and the bottom of the idle return pivot lever.

352

2. Install the tube assemblies until light contact is made with the nozzle holders in the cylinder head. Lightly tighten the clamping screws and then lightly tighten the fuel inlet tube sleeve nuts.

3. Connect the injection pump end of the fuel tubes to the appropriate fuel injection pump outlet ports and lightly tighten the sleeve nuts.

4. Install and lightly tighten the lower injection pump fuel inlet tube insulators, clamp plate and bracket.

The tube insulators, clamp plates and brackets are required to prevent cavitation erosion and vibration failure of the fuel tubes.

Figure 352 — Throttle Return to Idle Mechanism 1. Throttle Return Spring 2. Throttle Return Spring

3. Throttle Return Cable

Do not tighten the lower insulators, clamp plate and bracket at this time.

354

Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly Installation 1. Install the front fuel nozzle inlet tube assembly over the exhaust manifold, guiding the front three fuel nozzle inlet tubes into the holes provided in the front cylinder head.

Lubricate the nozzle inlet tube clamping screw threads before installing.

353

Figure 354 — Front Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly 1. Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Lower Clamp Plate and Bracket Bolts 2. Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Lower Clamp Plate and Bracket

Figure 353 — Installing Front Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tubes

3. Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Lower Clamp Bracket Nut 4. Front Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tubes

5. Install the rear fuel nozzle inlet tube assembly over the exhaust manifold, guiding the rear three fuel nozzle inlet tubes into the holes provided in the rear cylinder head.

Lubricate the nozzle inlet tube clamping screw threads before installing.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 355

11. While holding the fuel nozzle inlet tube assembly clamping screws, tighten the tube sleeve nuts at the cylinder heads to 25 lb-ft (34 N•m) torque using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

12. Tighten all six fuel inlet tube sleeve nuts located at the fuel injection pump outlet ports to 25 lb-ft (34 N•m) torque using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

13. If required, tighten all fuel inlet tube insulators and clamp plate-to-bracket fasteners.

356

Figure 355 — Installing Rear Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tubes

6. Install the tube assemblies until light contact is made with the nozzle holders in the cylinder head. Lightly tighten the clamping screws and then lightly tighten the fuel inlet tube sleeve nuts.

7. Connect the injection pump end of the fuel tubes to the appropriate fuel injection pump outlet ports and lightly tighten the sleeve nuts.

8. Install and lightly tighten the two rear injection pump fuel inlet tube brackets. Use the 165-mm exhaust manifold capscrews to secure the two fuel line brackets.

The tube insulators, clamp plates and brackets are required to prevent cavitation erosion and vibration failure of the fuel tubes.

9. Install the front upper fuel nozzle inlet tube bracket-to-cylinder head bolt and tighten to specification.

10. Tighten all six fuel inlet tube assembly clamping screws to 35 lb-ft (48 N•m) torque using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

An open-ended “crow’s foot” adapter with a torque wrench is required for installation of nozzle fuel inlet tube assemblies. Avoid twisting the lines when tightening the sleeve nuts.

Page 250

Figure 356 — Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assemblies 1. Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Bracket-to-Block Capscrew 2. Rear Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Bracket-toManifold Bolts

3. Tube Sleeve Nuts at Cylinder Heads 4. Tube Sleeve Nuts at Injection Pump

After all lines have been clamped and torqued, check to make sure all lines are not rubbing or touching together.

14. Apply Loctite 277 or equivalent/Teflon® thread sealer to the exhaust manifold vent line fitting (1) and coolant inlet fitting (2) as shown in Figure 357.

15. Install into the front of the exhaust manifold the vent line fitting and coolant inlet fitting.

Tighten to specification.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

The vent line fitting should be facing up after tightening is complete.

16. Install the exhaust manifold coolant inlet hose and spring clamp at manifold. Tighten the spring clamp to specification.

18. Position the fuel filter adapter/coolant conditioner adapter bracket to the exhaust manifold upper front two capscrew holes.

Secure the bracket with the two remaining 165-mm exhaust manifold capscrews, lightly tightening at this time.

359

357

Figure 359 — Installing Adapter Bracket

Figure 357 — Exhaust Manifold Vent Line and Coolant Inlet Fittings 1. Vent Line Fitting 2. Exhaust Manifold Coolant Inlet Fitting

3. Exhaust Manifold Coolant Inlet Hose

17. Connect remaining end of exhaust manifold coolant inlet hose (with spring clamp) to water pump tube. Tighten spring clamp to specification.

358

19. Raise the exhaust manifold as high as the clearance in the capscrew holes allows.

Beginning at the center exhaust port capscrews, evenly tighten all exhaust manifold capscrews to specification.

After all exhaust manifold capscrews have been tightened, make sure the fuel nozzle inlet lines are not rubbing or touching each other or the exhaust manifold.

Figure 358 — Install Exhaust Manifold Coolant Inlet Hose to Water Pump

Page 251

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Fuel Filter Adapter and Coolant Conditioner Adapter Assembly Installation 1. Position the fuel filter adapter to the adapter bracket on the exhaust manifold, install the bolts and washers and tighten to specification.

5. Make sure the coolant conditioner check valve is installed into adapter bore. The arrow on the check valve must point outward.

6. Lubricate and then install a new O-ring into the counterbore of the adapter.

362

360

Figure 362 — Coolant Conditioner O-Ring and Mounting Area Figure 360 — Fuel Filter Adapter Mounting

2. Install hose fittings in the Inlet and Outlet ports of the fuel filter adapter.

3. Install the fuel inlet hose to the inlet fitting (marked IN) on the adapter and to the fitting at the outlet side of the injection pump transfer pump.

1. Coolant Conditioner Adapter Mounting Area

2. Coolant Conditioner Adapter O-Ring

7. Position the coolant conditioner adapter to the adapter bracket and install the two mounting capscrews and retaining nuts.

Tighten to specification.

363

4. Install the fuel outlet hose to the outlet fitting (marked OUT) on the adapter and to the fitting at the inlet port of the injection pump.

361

Figure 363 — Coolant Conditioner Adapter

Figure 361 — Fuel Filter Adapter

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 8. Connect the coolant conditioner outlet hose and clamp to the outlet fitting on the adapter.

Place the clamp into proper position on the hose.

10. Connect the coolant conditioner inlet hose and clamp to the fitting on the back of the mounting bracket. Place the clamp into proper position on the hose.

365

9. Connect the other end of the hose and clamp to the elbow fitting on the cylinder block water jacket. Place the clamp into proper position on the hose.

364

Figure 365 — Coolant Conditioner-to-Thermostat Housing Hose 1. Coolant Conditioner-toThermostat Housing Hose Connection

2. Exhaust Manifold Vent Hose (Ref.)

11. Connect the coolant conditioner-tothermostat housing hose to the fitting on the thermostat housing. Place the clamp into proper position on the hose.

366

Figure 364 — Coolant Conditioner Adapter Connection 1. Coolant Conditioner Adapter Connection

2. Coolant Conditioner-toBlock Water Jacket Connection

Figure 366 — Coolant Conditioner Hose Fitting at Thermostat Housing

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 12. Lubricate the secondary fuel filter seal with clean engine oil and fill with specified diesel fuel per instructions on canister.

13. Lubricate the coolant conditioner seal with clean engine oil.

2. Install a new gasket and then position the turbocharger onto the exhaust manifold over the mounting studs. Do not use sealing or joint compounds on turbocharger mounting flange gasket.

368

14. Install the secondary fuel filter and the coolant conditioner canister to the appropriate adapters on the mounting bracket. Tighten the fuel filter and coolant conditioner canisters per instructions on canister.

367

Figure 368 — Installing Turbocharger and Gasket 369

Figure 367 — Secondary Fuel Filter and Coolant Conditioner 1. Secondary Fuel Filter

2. Coolant Conditioner

Turbocharger Installation 1. Inspect the intake and exhaust systems leading to and from the turbocharger to ensure absence of foreign material, including burrs and loose lining fragments.

A thorough inspection is required as even small particles can cause severe rotor damage if inducted during high-speed turbocharger operation.

Page 254

Figure 369 — Turbocharger and Exhaust Manifold Fitting Orientation 1. Turbocharger Vent Fitting 2. Turbocharger Coolant Outlet-to-Water Manifold Fitting 3. Exhaust Manifold Vent Fitting

4. Exhaust Manifold-toWater Manifold Fitting 5. Engine Block-toTurbocharger Coolant Fitting (Faces Toward Engine Block)

Use a high-temperature, anti-seize compound (such as Fel Pro C5A) on all threaded fasteners connected to the turbocharger.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 3. Install the four mounting nuts and washers and tighten to the specified torque, using torque wrench J 24406, or equivalent, and “crow’s foot” adapter.

6. Install the compressed air tube, couplings and spring clamps between the turbocharger compressor housing and aftercooler inlet tube.

It may be necessary to lift the turbocharger slightly to install the lower two nuts and washers onto the studs in the exhaust manifold.

If the V-band clamps are loosened for angular orientation of the compressor housing or the center bearing housing, ensure that the mating flanges are tightly seated and that the fasteners are snug but still allow cover orientation.

370

Complete the orientation of the compressor cover and center bearing housing before making any rigid connections to the compressor housing or to the center bearing housing. Tighten the V-band clamp retaining nuts at the turbine housing to the specified torque, and the V-band clamp retaining nuts at the compressor housing to specified torque, using torque wrench J 5853-C, or equivalent. Then make certain that all ducting aligns closely with the turbocharger. This minimizes external stresses acting on the unit.

372

Figure 370 — Tightening Mounting Nuts

4. Fill the turbocharger at the oil inlet port with clean engine oil before connecting the oil inlet tube.

5. Connect the lubrication feed hose to the oil inlet tube on the turbocharger.

371

Figure 372 — Turbocharger-to-Aftercooler Compressed Air Tube

Figure 371 — Tightening Lubrication Feed Hose

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 7. Tighten the turbocharger-to-aftercooler compressed air tube coupling spring clamps to specification.

373

9. Install the turbocharger oil drain tube and tighten the capscrews to the specified torque, using torque wrench J 24406, or equivalent.

375

Figure 373 — Tightening Coupling Spring Clamps Figure 375 — Installing Oil Drain Tube 1. Turbocharger Compressor V-Band Clamp 2. Turbocharger Compressor-toAftercooler Compressed Air Tube Coupling Spring Clamps

3. Compressed Air Tube-toAftercooler Coupling Spring Clamps

10. Install the clamp securing the turbocharger oil drain tube coupling to the oil fill tube. It is necessary to remove the front return-to-idle bracket capscrew and attach the drain tube support bracket to this location using the same capscrew. Tighten to specified torque.

376

8. A new gasket is required when installing the turbocharger oil drain tube.

374

Figure 376 — Installing Oil Drain Tube

Figure 374 — Oil Drain Tube Gasket

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 11. Install the turbocharger-to-water manifold outlet coolant hose and spring clamps to the turbocharger fitting. Route hose under the turbo oil inlet line. Next, install the exhaust manifold-to-water manifold outlet hose and spring clamps to the exhaust manifold fitting.

Also route this exhaust manifold hose under the turbo oil inlet line. Position the spring clamps and tighten to specification.

12. Install the remaining end of the exhaust manifold and turbocharger coolant outlet hose and spring clamps to their respective fittings on the rear water manifold section.

Upper water manifold fitting is for the exhaust manifold outlet hose and the rear smaller fitting is for the turbocharger outlet hose. Position the spring clamps and tighten to specification.

377

378

Figure 377 — Installing Coolant Outlet Hoses 1. Turbocharger-to-Water Manifold Hose and Clamps

2. Exhaust Manifold-toWater Manifold Hose and Clamps

Figure 378 — Installing Coolant Return Hoses 1. Water Manifold Connection from Exhaust Manifold 2. Water Manifold

3. Water Manifold Connection from Turbocharger

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 13. Install a new O-ring onto the groove of the collar on the block-mounted outlet collar.

379

15. Install the turbocharger hose and clamps between the block collar and the turbocharger inlet fitting. Position clamps and tighten to specifications.

381

Figure 379 — Coolant Outlet Tube Collar 1. Coolant Outlet Tube Collar Groove

2. Coolant Outlet Tube Collar O-Ring

14. Lubricate the O-ring and install the turbocharger coolant outlet collar into the rear coolant jacket of the engine block.

Install the capscrew retaining the collar to the rear of the block and tighten capscrew to specifications.

380

Figure 380 — Coolant Outlet Collar

Page 258

Figure 381 — Turbocharger Coolant Inlet Hose 1. Turbocharger Coolant Inlet Hose Connection

2. Engine Block to Turbocharger Coolant Hose Connection

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Exhaust Mixer/Exit Pipe (If Equipped) Installation 1. Position the exhaust mixer/exit pipe on the turbocharger turbine housing.

LDA Acceleration Smoke Control Line Installation 1. Install the LDA connection at the inlet manifold fitting and tighten.

384

A new gasket is required when installing the mixer/exit pipe to the turbocharger turbine housing.

382

Figure 382 — Exhaust Mixer/Exit Pipe

2. While holding the weight of the mixer/exit pipe, install and tighten the four retainers and capscrews. Tighten capscrews to specifications.

383

Figure 384 — LDA Line Connection at Inlet Manifold 1. Route LDA Line Under Breather Hose

2. LDA Line Connection at Inlet Manifold

Figure 383 — Removing Mixer/Exit Pipe Retainers

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 2. Install the LDA line connection at the injection pump governor and tighten.

386

385

Figure 386 — Cooling System Vent Line 1. Coolant System Vent Hose

2. Connect and clamp the vent hose at the exhaust manifold fitting connection and the heat exchanger fitting.

387

Figure 385 — LDA Line Connection at Injection Pump

Engine Cooling System Vent Line Installation The engine cooling system vent lines connect the turbocharger and exhaust manifold to the heat exchanger. Install these lines as an assembly to avoid confusion with other systems which use the same size and color hose such as the coolant conditioner.

1. Position the engine cooling system vent line along the cylinder head covers routing the line toward the heat exchanger, exhaust manifold and turbocharger.

Page 260

Figure 387 — Coolant Vent Hose Forward Connections

3. Connect and clamp the vent hose at exhaust manifold fitting connection and the turbocharger fitting.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 388

390

Figure 388 — Coolant Vent Hose Rearward Connections

4. Install and tighten the four capscrews securing the vent hose clamps to the cylinder head covers.

389

Figure 390 — Correctly Installed Oil Metering Plug 1. Correctly Installed Oil Metering Plug

1. Position a new gasket between raw water pump adapter and mounting flange of the engine block. Taking care not to damage the plastic coupling gear, install the raw water pump by aligning pump gear with the auxiliary shaft and slide it forward into the mounting flange.

391

Figure 389 — Installing Clamps on Coolant Vent Lines

Raw Water Pump Installation

Before installing the raw water pump adapter to the cylinder block, look in the end of the auxiliary shaft to make sure the end of the shaft has a cup plug with a hole through the middle of the plug.

Plug must be present to provide adequate lubrication for the raw water pump.

Figure 391 — Raw Water Pump

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 2. Install three mounting capscrews securing the raw water pump adapter to the auxiliary driveshaft housing (engine block) and tighten to specifications.

392

Impeller depends on liquid pumped for lubrication. DO NOT RUN DRY for more than 30 seconds. Lack of liquid will burn the impeller.

Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Installation 1. Install the blow-by recirculation unit oil drain back sump connection at the engine block and tighten fitting to specifications.

394

Figure 392 — Raw Water Pump Connection to Block 1. Three Raw Water Capscrews

3. Position the hose onto the raw water pump outlet and connect the other end of the hose to the aftercooler spout. Install the two spring clamps and tighten to specifications.

393

Figure 394 — Oil Drain Back Sump Connection

2. Connect the blow-by recirculation unit oil drain back hose at the sump tube and install the hose clamp.

395

Figure 393 — Raw Water Pump Connections 1. Hose Inlet Connection to Aftercooler

2. Hose Outlet Connection to Raw Water Pump

Figure 395 — Blow-By Recirculation Oil Drain Back

Pump will self-prime at low or high speeds. Be sure suction lines are airtight or pump will not self-prime.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 3. Install the oil drain back check valve in the middle of the blow-by recirculation unit oil drain back hose. Make sure the oil drain back check valve is installed with the arrows on the valve pointing toward the sump tube connection.

396

5. Install the capscrew and nut securing the blow-by recirculation unit to the lower bracket and tighten to specifications.

Connect the remaining end of the oil drain back hose to the lower portion of the blowback recirculation unit at the oil drain fitting.

398

Figure 396 — Oil Drain Check Valve Positioning

4. Position the blow-by recirculation unit onto the bracket located on the rear of the aftercooler housing and attach the inlet (humped) hose onto the turbocharger compressor outlet. Then attach the hose clamp and tighten clamps to specification.

397

Figure 398 — Blow-By Recirculation Support Bracket 1. Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Fastener

2. Blow-By Recirculation (AIRSEP®) Support Bracket 3. Oil Drain Back Hose

Blow-By Recirculation Vacuum Regulator and Breather Hose Installation 1. Position the breather hose between both cylinder head cover tubes and install both the hose clamps and tighten.

399

Figure 397 — Blow-By Recirculation Installation 1. Hose Clamp

2. Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Hose Connection

Figure 399 — Breather Hose

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 2. Connect one end of the breather hose to the cylinder head cover tube and connect the other end of the blow-by recirculation hose to the vacuum regulator of the engine.

Clamp the breather hose to the cylinder head cover tube and to the vacuum regulator.

400

Injection Pump Shutdown Solenoid Installation To install the injection pump shutdown solenoid: 1. Install the shutdown solenoid assembly to the mounting bracket with two shorter screws in the front positions and the longer screws in the rear positions. Install the retaining nuts and torque to specifications.

402

Figure 400 — Vacuum Regulator and Hose

Figure 402 — Installing Shutdown Solenoid

The position of the vacuum regulator should be as close to vertical as height restrictions will permit.

3. Connect the hose at the blow-by recirculation unit (AIRSEP®) to vacuum regulator and then position and tighten the clamp.

401

Figure 401 — Connect Vacuum Regulator 1. Blow-By Recirculation Unit (AIRSEP®) Hose Connection

Page 264

2. Vacuum Regulator Filter Clamp

2. Connect the electrical connection to the engine harness.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Injection Pump Shutdown Solenoid Adjustment

3. Tighten actuator (plunger) shaft locking nut to specification after adjustment is complete.

404

To adjust the injection pump shutdown solenoid: 1. Compress the shutoff solenoid to the actuator to the bottom of its travel.

403

Figure 404 — Aligning Solenoid Actuator Ball Stud

4. Insert the solenoid ball stud to the injection pump lever and install the nut attaching the solenoid ball stud to the lever. Tighten the ball stud nut to specifications.

405

Figure 403 — Compressing Solenoid Actuator

2. Align the solenoid ball stud with the injection pump stop lever. Lever hole should align exactly with ball stud shaft. r

Loosen locking nut and turn plunger shaft counterclockwise to extend the actuator (plunger) length.

r

Loosen locking nut and turn plunger shaft clockwise to contract the actuator (plunger) length.

Figure 405 — Injection Pump Shutdown Solenoid

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Starter Magnetic Relay Installation

4. Install drive belts (1).

To install the starter magnetic relay:

5. Adjust drive belt tension to specification as described in the following Fan Belt Adjustment procedure.

1. Using the screws and nuts, secure the starter magnetic relay to the relay bracket.

Tighten fasteners to specification.

407

2. Secure the starter magnetic relay bracket to the engine block using the two capscrews.

Tighten capscrews to specifications.

406

Figure 406 — Installing Starter Magnetic Relay

3. Connect the positive battery cable to the starter magnetic relay and secure with relay stud nut.

4. Connect the key switch harness connector to the smaller terminal of the starter magnetic relay.

Alternator Installation INSTALLATION

Figure 407 — Alternator Installation 1. Double V-Belts 2. Top Mounting Bolt 3. Nut 4. Nut(s)

5. Bracket 6. Lower Mounting Bolt 7. Alternator

Refer to Figure 407.

1. Install the alternator mounting bracket (5) and retaining nuts (4). Tighten the bracket retaining nuts to 61–68 lb-ft (82–92 N•m).

2. Position the alternator (8) on the mounting bracket and install top mounting bolt (2) and lower mounting bolt (6) and nut (3).

3. Connect the electrical wires as tagged during disassembly.

Page 266

FAN BELT ADJUSTMENT 1. For consistent measurements, use belt tension gauge tool BT3373-F to check the belt tension.

2. Check tension at the center of the longest span, and chalk-mark the point checked.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 3. When installing new belts, initially adjust the tension to give a gauge reading of 130–150 lbs. (578–667 N). Chalk-mark the point checked. Run the engine for approximately 5–10 minutes. Allow the belts to cool and recheck at the chalk mark. If the tension is less than 100 lbs. (445 N), readjust the tension to approximately 110–120 lbs. (489–534 N).

4. After adjusting belt tension, tighten alternator mounting bolts as follows: a.

b.

Tighten alternator top mounting bolt (2) to specifications using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

Removing Engine from Engine Stand 1. Attach a suitable lifting device to lifting points on engine.

2. Position and attach an engine hoist to lifting device; place tension on the device by operating hoist.

3. With lifting device supporting the engine weight, remove mounting capscrews from engine stand.

Filter Element Installation

Tighten alternator lower mounting bolt to specifications using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

All filters must meet MACK specifications. Prime oil filters before installation using the correct specification engine oil.

408

1. Install a new air filter in the blow-by recirculation unit housing.

409

Figure 409 — Installing Air Filter

2. Install the applicable Centri-Max® filter assembly. Be sure to use a new rotor element and O-ring.

Figure 408 — Belt Arrangement

There are different rotor assemblies for the standard Centri-Max® filter assemblies. Make sure to use the correct rotor for the applicable configuration.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 3. Using an appropriate filter wrench such as J 29927, install the two full-flow oil filter elements and coolant conditioner element.

Prime the fuel filter element before installation.

Use only clean, MACK-specified, Grade 2D diesel fuel.

Heat Exchanger to Oil Cooler Coolant Tube Installation 1. Connect the coolant tube hose at the oil cooler assembly and at the heat exchanger.

Position and tighten the spring clamps on the hoses to specification.

411

4. Prime the SECONDARY fuel filter element by filling with clean No. 2 fuel oil. Do not fill the filter through the center hole; it must be filled using the outer holes. Lubricate the gasket with oil and install the filter.

Starter Motor Installation To install the starter motor: 1. Position the starter motor to the flywheel housing.

410

Figure 411 — Installing Coolant Tube

Figure 410 — Installing Starter Motor

2. Install the starter motor bolts and tighten to specified torque.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS ENGINE INSTALLATION General Instructions

1. Lower engine into place and align engine flywheel housing with transmission bell housing. Install the housing capscrews.

Torque to specification.

Engine installation details vary from vessel to vessel. The following procedure provides general installation guidelines for the MackPower™ M-E7 engine.

2. Install engine mount capscrews to secure engine mounts to engine. Torque to specification.

Before beginning, make sure all equipment has been inspected for safety and is available for use.

Place the vessel in dry dock. Make sure the area has ample work space. Ensure that a suitable lifting device is available. Lifting device must be capable of safely lifting 3,000 lbs. (1361 kg). If lifting engine with transmission, a capacity of 3500 lbs. (1588 kg) is required.

4. Install all coolant tubes, ground straps, vent lines, fuel lines, transmission oil cooler hoses, throttle linkage and electrical wiring harnesses that were removed from the engine during removal.

Installation Procedure

Obtain assistance when installing the engine. Be sure to watch for obstructions such as engine or vessel components, brackets, clamps or other components that may interfere with engine installation.

3. Remove transmission support from under transmission.

5. If not previously done, install and adjust belts per specifications.

6. Install clamps that retain coolant overflow tank and install tank.

7. Reconnect the pipe connecting the exhaust pipe/mixer with the hull of the vessel. The exhaust pipe/mixer connection at the turbocharger may be installed with engine or connected at this time depending on vessel application.

8. Reconnect the raw water inlet hose to the raw water pump.

9. Open the engine sea water seacock.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS ENGINE SETUP AND ADJUSTMENTS Valve Yoke and Valve Lash Adjustments

3. Using engine barring tool or a wrench on the front barring bracket if using the front pointer, manually rotate engine until the pointer aligns with the TC mark on the vibration damper or flywheel.

412

DESCRIPTION Yoke and valve adjustments are done in two stages. Adjust the yoke clearance first, then adjust the valve lash. Make sure both adjustments are done in firing order sequence.

Manually rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation until the TC mark on the damper or flywheel (with the No. 1 piston on the compression stroke) aligns with pointer. This provides the necessary Top Dead Center (TDC) relationship for valve lash adjustment.

Yoke and valve adjustments must be made under static conditions with coolant temperature below 100°F (37°C).

Engine firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED r

Engine Barring Tool (only if rear timing is used)

Figure 412 — Engine Crankshaft Rotation 1. Barring Tool J 38587-A

VALVE YOKE ADJUSTMENT

2. Flywheel Housing 3. Flywheel

4. Back off the valve rocker adjusting screws.

On mechanically governed engines, before barring engine for any reason, secure injection pump stop lever in stop position.

1. Remove valve covers with crankcase breather assemblies.

2. Make sure engine is on cylinder 1 compression stroke by ensuring cylinder 1 valves are not moving. If valves are moving with engine rotation, rotate crank 360 degrees.

Page 270

5. Loosen the No. 1 cylinder yoke adjusting screw locknuts.

6. Exert moderate force on the yoke by pressing on the rocker arm slipper end. Turn down the yoke adjusting screw until it makes solid contact with the outboard valve stem tip, as sensed by a light drag on the adjusting screw.

7. Turn adjusting screw an additional 1/6 turn (60 degrees) clockwise.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 414

A 1/6 turn is equal to one flat on the adjusting screw locknut.

8. Hold the yoke adjusting screw in this position while tightening the adjusting screw locknut. Torque locknut to 33 lb-ft (45 N•m) using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

413

Figure 414 — Checking Yoke Adjustment 1. Thickness Gauge

2. Yoke

INLET VALVE ADJUSTMENT Refer to Figure 415.

Inlet valve lash clearance is 0.016 ± 0.004 inch (0.406 ± 0.102 mm).

1. Place a 0.016-inch (0.406 mm) thickness gauge between the rocker arm and yoke on the No. 1 cylinder.

2. Turn the adjusting screw until a light drag is felt on the thickness gauge.

Figure 413 — Yoke Adjusting Screw and Locknut

Checking Yoke Adjustment

3. After setting adjustment screw, tighten locknut. Torque locknut to 40 lb-ft (54 N•m) using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

Refer to Figure 414.

1. Insert a 0.010-inch (0.254 mm) thickness gauge between the yoke and valve stem, at both the inboard and outboard locations.

2. Exert moderate force on the yoke by pressing on the rocker arm slipper end. An equal drag should be felt on both thickness gauges. If drag is unequal, readjust the yoke adjusting screw, as required.

Do not allow the adjustment screw to turn.

4. After tightening locknut, recheck valve lash clearance. Readjust as necessary.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 415

416

Figure 415 — Inlet Valve Adjustment 1. Thickness Gauge

2. Adjusting Screw and Locknut

EXHAUST VALVE ADJUSTMENT Refer to Figure 416.

Exhaust valve lash clearance is 0.028 ± 0.004 inch (0.711 ± 0.102 mm).

1. Place the proper thickness gauge between the exhaust rocker arm and yoke on the No. 1 cylinder.

2. Turn the adjusting screw until a light drag is felt on the thickness gauge.

3. After adjustment is complete, tighten locknut. Torque locknut to 40 lb-ft (54 N•m) using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

Do not allow the adjustment screw to turn.

4. Recheck valve lash clearance after tightening locknut. Readjust as necessary.

Page 272

Figure 416 — Exhaust Valve Adjustment 1. Thickness Gauge

2. Adjusting Wrench J 37092

5. Using engine barring tool or front barring bracket, manually rotate engine 120 degrees in the normal direction of rotation until pointer aligns with the “5” mark on the vibration damper or flywheel.

6. Adjust the yoke and valve lash as previously outlined for the No. 1 cylinder.

7. Continue adjusting yoke and valve lash for the remaining cylinders, in firing order.

Rotate crankshaft to place each piston 30 degrees after TDC. 8. Upon completion of lash settings, reinstall valve covers and crankcase breather assemblies. Remove barring tool.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS Injection Pump Fixed-Timing Procedures Make sure key switch is off. r Whenever the injection pump is removed from the engine, it is necessary to use the fixed-timing method to set injection pump-to-engine timing.

This method uses a portable fixed-timing light that electrically determines port closure to verify precise injection pump-to-engine timing.

DESCRIPTION The fixed-timing method is a simple, accurate procedure that uses timing lights to set injection pump-to-engine timing. Using the fixed-timing method ensures optimum fuel economy and engine durability, and maintains engine exhaust within established limits.

417

On mechanically controlled fuel-injection systems, injection timing is referenced to the No. 1 cylinder. The engine must be timed during the compression stroke of cylinder No. 1.

When removing capscrews and washers, be extremely careful not to drop a washer into the engine. Removing the washer is difficult and may require partial engine disassembly.

Following are procedures for: r

Setting Static Fuel Injection Pump Timing

r

Fuel Injection Pump Driven Gear Installation

r

Checking Pump-to-Engine Timing

r

Fuel Injection Pump Access Cover Installation

r

Fuel Injection Pump Pre-Lubrication

Accurately setting the injection pump timing is the best way to ensure optimum fuel economy, engine durability, and maintain engine exhaust within established limits.

Figure 417 — Fixed Timing Method

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED r

Fixed Timing Position Sensor (Light) J 37077

r

Alignment Fixture J 37078

419

SETTING STATIC FUEL INJECTION PUMP TIMING To set the static fuel injection pump timing, prior to pump removal, proceed as follows: 1. Remove the fixing plate plug from the fixed timing port.

418

Figure 419 — Inspecting and Installing J 37077 Tool

4. Slowly turn the knurled surface clockwise to lock the tool into place. Check to make sure tool is seated by applying pressure to the end of the tool and checking for any movement. If movement is detected, remove and reinstall the tool.

420

Figure 418 — Removing Plug

Thoroughly clean all residue from the fixed timing port threads (timing access window) before installing tool sensor. This prevents the possibility of a false reading.

2. Clean the J 37077 tool sensor probe points with compressed air before using. This helps prevent metallic contamination between the sensor probe points.

3. Install fixed timing position sensor tool J 37077. Make sure that tool is correctly aligned with the locating groove in the fixed timing port.

Page 274

Figure 420 — Turning Knurled Surface Clockwise

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 5. Connect the fixed timing tool ground to the engine and press the power switch on.

422

421

Figure 422 — Installing Driven Gear

Figure 421 — Grounding and Turning Tool On

6. Rotate the engine crankshaft counterclockwise (as viewed from the front of the engine) to a minimum of 45 degrees before Top Dead Center (TDC).

3. Install the gear capscrews. Install capscrews snugly to remove clearance but allow relative motion between hub and gear.

423

7. Rotate the engine crankshaft clockwise until lamps “A” and “B” are both lit. Fuel injection pump timing is now set.

FUEL INJECTION PUMP DRIVEN GEAR INSTALLATION To install the fuel injection pump driven gear: 1. Verify crankshaft is set to correct BTDC position for pump timing.

2. Install the fuel injection pump driven gear on the timing gear hub so the screw holes in the hub are centered in the gear slots/alignment dowels.

Figure 423 — Installing Driven Gear Capscrews

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 4. Rotate the timing gear hub counterclockwise until screws bottom in the ends of the gear slots in the fuel injection pump driven gear.

When this happens, both lamps will go out.

6. Torque all fuel injection pump driven gear capscrews to 40 lb-ft (54 N•m) using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

426

424

Figure 424 — Rotating Timing Gear Hub Counterclockwise

5. Rotate timing gear hub clockwise until both “A” and “B” lamps are lit. There is only a very small band of rotation when both lamps are lit.

425

Figure 425 — Rotating Timing Gear Hub Clockwise

Page 276

Figure 426 — Torquing Driven Gear Capscrews

Lamp “A” or “B” may go out during the tightening procedure. This is acceptable. Do not attempt to keep lamps lit. Doing so may cause improper injection pump-to-engine timing.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CHECKING PUMP-TO-ENGINE TIMING

428

1. Rotate engine crankshaft counterclockwise to a minimum of 45 degrees before TDC. Both “A” and “B” lamps will go out.

427

Figure 428 — Rotating Crankshaft Clockwise to Light Both Lamps

Figure 427 — Rotating Crankshaft Counterclockwise

2. Rotate engine crankshaft clockwise until both lamps are lit. If timing pointer does not cover a value within ± 0.5 (1/2) degree of desired timing, the engine is not timed correctly. Before continuing, check and verify piston No. 1 is at TDC. Refer to “Locating Piston Top Dead Center (TDC)” on page 279.

If timing is not within specification, reset and recheck timing. Timing is reset by loosening pump driven gear capscrews, then following procedure for “FUEL INJECTION PUMP DRIVEN GEAR INSTALLATION” on page 275.

3. After achieving correct timing, remove timing tools. a.

Turn tester power off.

b.

Disconnect tester ground.

c.

Remove fixed timing probe.

4. Install fixing plate plug.

5. Check the torque of the vibration damper hub bolt to ensure specified torque.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS FUEL INJECTION PUMP ACCESS COVER INSTALLATION To install the fuel injection pump access cover:

3. Torque access cover capscrews to specifications, using torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.

430

1. Lubricate the access cover O-ring with Lubrizol® OS-50044, or equivalent.

429

Figure 430 — Installing and Torquing Access Cover Capscrews Figure 429 — Lubricating Access Cover O-Ring

4. Connect fuel injection pump oil supply line.

2. Install pump access cover and capscrews.

Ensure that the mechanical tachometer drive hex-shaped drive pin has fully engaged the injection pump driven-gear retaining nut.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS FUEL INJECTION PUMP PRELUBRICATION To prelubricate the fuel injection pump with mechanical governor, remove the timing sensor (fixing plate) plug in the governor housing. Add 12 ounces (355 ml) of clean engine oil. This will fill both the governor and fuel injection pump.

Reinstall the timing sensor (fixing plate) plug.

431

On engines with front timing indicators, vibration damper is marked to show TDC location relative to No. 1 piston on compression stroke. After locating piston TDC, front timing indicator may be adjusted slightly until it aligns with the TC or “0” mark stamped on vibration damper.

SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED r

Top Dead Center Indicator Tool J 29539-A

r

Injection Nozzle Puller J 37093

LOCATING PISTON TDC

Pull out engine stop control to prevent accidental engine starting.

Refer to Figure 432.

1. Rotate engine in normal rotation direction until No. 1 piston is approximately at TDC on compression stroke.

Figure 431 — Installing Plug

Prelubrication is required anytime a new or used fuel injection pump is removed and then installed on the engine.

Locating Piston Top Dead Center (TDC) During timing inspection, if timing is found to be incorrect, check piston TDC and retime engine.

The following instructions are provided to aid in locating piston TDC in the event the engine front timing pointer is bent or misaligned.

2. Remove front valve cover and crankcase breather hose. Remove cylinder 1 injection line.

3. Remove injection nozzle holder assembly from the No. 1 cylinder using injection nozzle puller J 37093.

4. Install TDC indicator tool J 29539-A in nozzle holder opening.

5. Rotate engine in normal rotation direction until the highest reading is obtained on the dial indicator. At this point, zero dial indicator.

6. Center a 5-inch (127 mm) length of masking tape below the timing pointer and on the vibration damper.

7. Rotate engine in the opposite direction of normal rotation until a reading of 0.060 inch (1.524 mm) is obtained on the dial indicator.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS 8. Rotate engine in the normal direction of rotation until the dial indicator reads exactly 0.035 inch (0.889 mm).

9. Place a mark on the masking tape on the vibration damper to align with timing pointer.

10. Continue rotating engine in the normal direction of rotation past zero on the dial indicator until a reading of 0.060 inch (1.524 mm) is obtained.

432

11. Rotate engine in the opposite direction of normal rotation until a reading of exactly 0.035 inch (0.889 mm) is indicated on dial indicator.

12. Place a mark on the masking tape on the vibration damper to align with timing pointer.

13. Measure the distance between the two marks made on the masking tape and place a third mark exactly at midpoint between the first two marks.

14. Rotate engine in the opposite direction of normal rotation until the timing pointer aligns with the middle mark made on the vibration damper. Remove masking tape.

15. If necessary, without rotating the engine, realign timing pointer until it aligns with the TC or “0” mark stamped on the vibration damper.

16. Remove TDC indicator tool. Reinstall nozzle, injection line, valve cover and breather assembly.

Figure 432 — Locating Piston TDC

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS FINAL PREPARATION AND OPERATIONAL CHECK Systems Check and Lubrication A lubricating oil film coats rotating parts and bearings of an overhauled engine, but this may not provide sufficient lubrication when the engine is started for the first time. The following information briefly describes the recommended procedure for ensuring proper lubrication.

Do not mix brands or types of lubricants.

Chemical additives may be incompatible and may contribute to the formation of sludge, acid or hardening.

Usually there are various points on the engine where a pressure line may be tapped into, but if no other pressure line is apparent, the oil gauge line may be disconnected and pressure tank applied at that point.

ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM (PRIMING)

It is important that this procedure be done with exactly 28 quarts of oil in the pan.

Check that the pan is empty before starting procedure.

4. Fill a pressure prelubricator (J 39258-A) with the recommended oil and connect pressure prelubricator to oil supply line at turbocharger. Prime engine lubrication system with sufficient oil using the pressure prelubricator for a minimum of five minutes.

5. Remove oil level dipstick and check crankcase level. Add sufficient oil, if necessary, to bring it to the FULL mark on the dipstick. Do not overfill.

Pressure prelubing the engine provides optimum lubrication for camshaft and lifters at initial startup.

TURBOCHARGER 1. Disconnect turbocharger oil inlet line and pour approximately one pint (473 ml) of clean engine oil into line. This ensures that bearings are properly lubricated for initial startup.

2. Reconnect the oil line.

AIR INLET SYSTEM

Initial oil fill requires the operator to calibrate the dipstick. This should be done with the boat in calm water, loaded normally.

1. If not already done, fill oil filters with EO-M engine oil.

2. Fill engine crankcase with 28 quarts of the recommended MACK-specified EO-M engine oil.

3. Check the oil level on the dipstick. The oil level should be below the full mark. Measure how far below the full mark the oil level is.

Using a tubing cutter, cut that amount from the top of the dipstick guide. Recheck level to ensure it is now at the full mark.

1. Check the integrity of the air inlet system.

2. Inspect all piping, connections and the air cleaner element. Replace components as required.

COOLING SYSTEM 1. Check cooling system. Make sure all plugs and coolant drain petcocks are installed and tight. Make sure thermostat is installed.

2. Fill a new coolant conditioner with recommended coolant mixture and install.

3. Fill system with recommended coolant.

If the oil level is above the full mark, the dipstick markings will need to be ground off and the dipstick remarked.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

To ensure that all air is purged from cooling system, the M-E7 marine engine is equipped with cooling system vent lines on the exhaust manifold and turbocharger. To ensure that all air is purged from the cooling system, open the petcock on the top of the turbocharger during filling. This eliminates most of the air that is trapped as a result of rapid filling or normal engine operation.

4. Check that all plugs, thermostat and drain petcocks are installed and closed.

5. Open the engine sea water seacock.

FUEL INJECTION PUMP 1. Remove the fixing plate 12-mm plug in the governor housing.

2. Fill pump housing with 12 ounces (355 ml) of EO-M engine lubricant.

3. Reinstall the fixing plate 12-mm plug.

Prelubing should be performed after new or used injection pumps are installed on the engine.

FUEL SYSTEM GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS 1. Check fuel system to ensure that all connections are tight.

2. Remove any trapped air by operating manual priming pump, located on the side of injection pump.

PRIMING THE FUEL SYSTEM

The only acceptable method of priming the fuel system is the hand primer pump. The application of air pressure to the fuel tank or the use of an auxiliary pump to prime the fuel system is PROHIBITED. These priming techniques may result in severe engine damage caused by leakage of fuel into the crankcase

Page 282

Prime the fuel system with clean, Grade 2D diesel fuel (DF-A).

General field practice is to prime the fuel filters before installation. This practice can allow dirt to enter the outlet port of the filter if caution is not used. Use filtered fuel only when priming the filter. Prime through the series of small holes on the top of the filter. DO NOT prime the filter through the center hole.

Using a hand-priming pump is usually only necessary when the fuel system has run dry. If the hand-priming pump is needed, use the following procedure for priming a dry fuel system.

1. Fill the fuel tank with the recommended grade of fuel. If only partial filling is possible, add a minimum of 10 gallons (38 liters) of fuel to the tank.

2. Remove the fuel strainer/water separator from its cover, fill it with fuel and reinstall it.

3. Remove the primary fuel filter (located on the hull of the vessel) from its adapter, fill it with fuel and reinstall it.

4. Remove the secondary fuel filter (located on the engine next to the coolant conditioner canister) from its adapter, fill it with fuel and reinstall it.

To improve engine starting, have replacement elements filled with fuel and ready to install immediately after used elements are removed.

This will prevent possible siphoning and fuel system aeration.

5. Disconnect the inlet hose at the secondary fuel filter.

6. Hand-pump until fuel is seen at the inlet hose fitting. This should take approximately 50 hand pumps.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

Excessive hand-priming after fuel is seen at the fitting may make the engine difficult to start.

Raw water pump will self-prime at low or high speeds. Be sure suction lines are airtight or pump will not self-prime.

7. Reconnect the inlet hose to the secondary fuel filter.

8. Start the engine and check fuel filter and strainer for leaks.

Under no circumstances should the starting motor and fuel pump be used to prime the fuel filter and strainer. Prolonged use of the starting motor and fuel pump to prime the fuel system can result in damage to the starter, fuel pump and injectors and cause erratic running of the engine due to the amount of air in the lines and filters.

If the engine does not start, refill both filters and repeat priming procedure outlined in Steps 2, 3 and 4.

Do not crank the engine continuously for more than 30 seconds without allowing the starter to cool for two minutes between engine cranking cycles.

Raw water impeller depends on liquid pumped for lubrication. DO NOT RUN DRY for more than 30 seconds. Lack of liquid will burn the impeller.

6. Entrapped air must be purged from the cooling system. Allow the engine to warm up without the pressure cap installed. With the marine gear in neutral, increase engine speed to 1000 rpm and add coolant as required. Vent the petcock on the turbocharger water return line until coolant (no air) comes out. Install the pressure cap after the coolant level has stabilized at the bottom of the heat exchanger tank filler neck. Refill the recovery bottle if coolant has been drawn into the engine.

If all coolant is drawn out of the recovery bottle when the engine cools, remove the pressure cap from the heat exchanger and check that the level is at the bottom of the filler neck. Add coolant as required, replace the pressure cap, and fill the recovery bottle to the “Full Cold” mark or no more than onequarter of its volume.

7. After several minutes, shut the engine down.

Check fluid levels and fill to capacity before restarting engine.

Engine Operational Check 1. Remove all tools from the engine compartment.

2. Connect battery cables (negative cable last).

3. Clear work area of debris and personnel.

4. Check that the raw water seacock is open.

5. Start the engine. Check for leaks and monitor gauges for satisfactory oil pressure, etc.

For engines where only the camshaft and lifters have been replaced, start engine and immediately increase speed to 1200 rpm. Run the engine at 1200–1600 rpm for 15 minutes.

IMPORTANT, do not allow the engine to idle until the 15 minute break-in test at 1200–1600 rpm is completed.

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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS REBUILT ENGINE RUN-IN PROCEDURES

Always investigate the following conditions: r

Unusual noises such as knocking, scraping, etc.

Description

r

A significant drop in engine oil pressure.

The durability and service life of a rebuilt engine is directly related to its initial run-in following overhaul. After a complete overhaul or any major repair job involving installation of piston rings, pistons, cylinder sleeves or bearings, the engine must be run-in prior to release for service.

r

A significant rise in coolant temperature, exceeding 240°F (116°C).

r

A significant rise in oil temperature, exceeding 240°F (116°C).

r

An exhaust temperature that exceeds maximum acceptable limit for the specific engine involved, as measured by a pyrometer (if applicable).

r

Any oil, coolant or air inlet system leaks.

Run-in procedures vary depending on method used and which new components have been installed. Regardless of method, however, always properly prepare engine before starting it for the first time.

Run-In Check

Install any additional instrumentation needed for run-in method selected.

The operator must be observant throughout the entire run-in procedure, in order to detect any problems that develop. Constantly monitor the instrumentation displaying functions and support systems of the engine and record all readings.

If during run-in, the engine develops any of the following abnormal running characteristics, shut it down immediately. Investigate and correct the problem before continuing run-in procedure.

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SPECIFICATIONS

SPECIFICATIONS

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SPECIFICATIONS ENGINE GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS Characteristic Weight (wet*)

Description 2615 lbs. (1186.2 kg)

Weight (dry)

2525 lbs. (1145.3 kg)

Displacement

728 cu. in. (11.93 L)

Bore and stroke

4-7/8 x 6-1/2 in. (123.83 x 165.10 mm)

Engine oil capacity

33.5 qts. (32 L), 28 quarts (26.5 L) in the pan

Coolant capacity

13 qts. (12.3 L) (Engine Only)

Compression ratio

15:1

Fasteners and threads

Metric and English

*Wet includes oil and coolant

Engine Features Component

Description

Cylinder block

Alloyed gray cast iron

Main bearing caps

Ductile iron, intermediate supported with buttress screws to prevent bulkhead movement

Flywheel housing

Standard — Aluminum, standard SAE No. 1, precision-doweled

Cylinder sleeves

Wet/dry, replaceable, centrifugally cast, alloyed cast iron

Cylinder heads

Alloy gray cast iron, four valves per cylinder, two cylinder heads per engine

Cylinder head gaskets — Body

Nonasbestos material with a steel core (two per engine)

— Fire ring

Steel, six per engine

Pistons

Two-piece, top crown material steel, aluminum alloy skirt, three-ring piston

Piston rings — Compression

Plasma, top ring; chrome, second ring

— Oil control

Chrome, one per cylinder

Piston pins

Full-floating, 2.25-inch (5.72 cm) diameter, full-pressure lubrication through rifle-drilled holes in connecting rods

Connecting rods

Forged steel, I-beam with tapered pin end, 35-degree cap angle, 10.4 inches (26.42 cm) center-to-center length

Crankshaft

Drop-forged, medium carbon steel, elotherm hardened journals and fillets, eight integral counterweights, 3.25-inch (8.26 cm) piston journal diameter, 4.5-inch (11.43 cm) main journal diameter

Bearings — Main

Steel-backed, lead-tin overlay

— Rod

Steel-backed, lead-tin overlay deltawall

Vibration damper

Viscous fluid filled

Camshaft

Carbon steel, carburized journals and lobes, gear driven

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SPECIFICATIONS Component

Description

Valves — Inlet

20-degree face angle, poppet with positive rotator, two per cylinder

— Exhaust

30-degree face angle, poppet with positive rotator, two per cylinder

Valve lifters

Mushroom type, durafaced (tungsten carbide)

Oil filters

Spin-on, disposable (two); Centri-Max® centrifugal filter (one)

Oil pan (isolating) — Electroless nickel-coated

Front sump

Turbocharger

Exhaust gas driven, radial flow, engine oil-lubricated, water-cooled (Garrett)

Lubrication system

Full pressure, wet sump Oil capacities —

Valve seat inserts

r

Total system capacity (dry, after engine overhaul) — 33.5 qts.

(31.7 L)

r

Oil change capacity without filter replacement — 28 qts. (27 L)

r

Oil change capacity with filter replacement — 32 qts. (30 L)

Pressed into cylinder heads (20° inlet seat, 30° exhaust seat)

Manifolds — Air inlet

Two-piece, six-port

— Exhaust

One-piece, water jacketed, six-port

— Coolant

Two-piece, four-port

Injection pump

Robert Bosch, P7100 with Bosch LDA acceleration smoke control, gear driven fixed timing

Injection nozzles

Mechanical nozzles: 0.26 mm (0.010 inch) Valve Covering Orifice (VCO) with 6 spray holes

Fuel filter

Spin-on, disposable

Engine Coolant Water Pump

Centrifugal-rotor, belt driven

Raw Water Pump

Auxiliary Shaft Driven

Coolant conditioner

Spin-on, disposable

Thermostat

180°F (82°C), with rubber seated flange seal and caged check ball

Raw Water Pump — Intake Vacuum

Not to Exceed 5 Inches of Mercury

— Discharge Pressure

10–15 psi

— Pump Body

Bronze Metal Construction

— Impeller

Neoprene Compound

— Cam

Wear-Resistant Polyurethane Cam/Liner

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SPECIFICATIONS PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS Description

650 rpm (idle)

1200 rpm

2300 rpm

Full Load (Rated Speed rpm)

Oil pressure — Cool engine

20 psi (138 kPa)

45 psi (310 kPa)

65 psi (448 kPa)

— Warm engine

15 psi (103 kPa)

30 psi (207 kPa)

45 psi (310 kPa)

Intake manifold temperature *Dependent on ambient air temperature.

Page 288

*100–145°F (38–60°C)

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SPECIFICATIONS FITS AND LIMITS The specifications listed are for new parts. Good judgment, experience and sound shop practice must be used when determining whether to reuse or replace service parts.

Standard Size or Fit Component

English (Inches)

Metric (Millimeters)

AUXILIARY DRIVESHAFT (CAPTURED THRUST WASHER) Shaft bushing — presized ID (front and rear)

2.064–2.0682

52.426–52.532

— presized OD (front and rear)

2.3140–2.3155

58.7756–58.8137

— bore in block (front and rear)

2.311–2.312

58.699–58.725

— press fit in bore (front and rear)

0.002–0.0045

0.0518–0.1143

Shaft end play

0.003–0.012

0.076–0.305

Shaft journal to bushing (front and rear)

0.0020–0.0072

0.508–0.1829

Shaft journal diameter OD (front and rear)

2.061–2.062

52.349–52.375

Oil pump driving gear ID

1.6250–1.6255

41.2750–41.2877

Auxiliary shaft oil pump drive journal

1.6272–1.6278

41.3309–41.3461

Raw water pump drive sprocket

0.0015 press 0.0005 loose

0.038 press 0.013 loose

Auxiliary shaft raw water pump sprocket journal

0.999–1.000

25.37–25.40

Bushing — presized ID (No. 1 through No. 7)

2.692–2.693

68.377–68.402

Bushing — free OD (No. 1 through No. 7)

2.8765–2.8785

73.0631–73.1139

Bushing — bore in block (No. 1 through No. 7)

2.873–2.874

72.974–73.000

Bushing — press fit in bore (No. 1 through No. 7)

0.0025–0.0055

0.0635–0.1397

Camshaft End Play

0.003–0.013

0.076–0.330

Journal diameter (No. 1 through No. 7)

2.6885–2.6895

68.2879–68.3133

Journal-to-bushing clearance (No. 1 through No. 7)

0.002–0.004

0.051–0.102

Camshaft gear ID

1.8750–1.8758

7.6250–47.645

Camshaft gear journal

1.8779–1.8784

47.6987–47.7114

Camshaft injection pump drive gear ID

1.8125–1.8135

46.0375–46.0629

Camshaft injection pump drive gear journal

1.8153–1.8159

46.1086–46.1239

Camshaft injection pump drive gear-to-Injection pump driven gear backlash

0.002–0.006

0.0508–0.1524

Length between centers

10.4375

265.113

Cap angle

35 degrees

Bore for bushing

2.4345–2.4355

61.8363–61.8617

Burnish bushing to

2.2275–2.2305

56.5785–56.6547

Finish bore to

2.2500–2.2504

57.1500–57.1602

3.4297–3.4305

87.1144–87.1347

CAMSHAFT

CONNECTING ROD

Crankpin bore diameter — as bored

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SPECIFICATIONS Standard Size or Fit Component

English (Inches)

Metric (Millimeters)

Bearing ID in place

3.4290–3.4310

87.0966–87.1474

Journal clearance

0.0012–0.0054

0.0305–0.1372

Side clearance

0.007–0.014

0.1778–0.3556

Twist within 10.4375 inches (26.51 cm)

0.011

0.279

Bend within 10.4375 inches (26.51 cm)

0.007

0.179

Crankpin journal OD

3.247–3.248

82.4738–82.4992

End play at No. 4 main

0.003–0.013

0.0762–0.3302

Main journal OD

4.4964–4.4974

114.2086–114.2340

Main journal clearance

0.0018–0.0047

0.0457–0.1194

Journal taper (diameter)

0.00035

0.00889

Journal out-of-roundness (diameter)

0.0004

0.01016

Runout at No. 4 journal shaft supported on No. 1 and No. 7

0.005

0.127

Crankshaft gear-to-camshaft gear backlash

0.001–0.011

0.0254–0.2794

0.002

0.0508

— upper

5.500–5.501

139.970–139.725

— lower

5.1250–5.1266

130.1750–130.2156

Cylinder bore out-of-round or taper on diameter. For service block only — maximum on reboring block: 0.001 inch (0.0254 mm).

0.004 max.

0.1016

Sleeve, flange channel depth above block deck (do not measure from top of bead)

0.023–0.029

0.584–0.737

Sleeve OD at upper pilot diameter

5.5030–5.5040

139.7762–139.8016

Sleeve bead for fire ring — protrusion above sleeve channel

0.0065–0.010

0.1651–0.2540

— upper press fit

0.002–0.004

0.0508–0.1016

— lower loose fit

0.0000–0.0031

0.0000–0.0787

— minimum*

4.876

123.850

— maximum

4.877

123.876

Main bearing bore in block

4.817–4.818

122.3518–122.3772

Main bearing-to-crankshaft journal clearance

0.0018–0.0047

0.0457–0.1194

Main bearing ID in place

4.4982–4.5021

114.2543–114.3533

Valve lifter bore

0.6865–0.6875

17.4371–17.4625

Valve lifter shank diameter

0.6845–0.6852

17.3863–17.4041

Valve lifter OD

1.330–1.340

33.782–34.036

Valve lifter to bore clearance

0.0013–0.0030

0.0330–0.0762

CRANKSHAFT

CYLINDER BLOCK Deck flatness (per head mounting) Cylinder bore in block

Sleeve in bore

Sleeve ID installed STD

NOTE: Extension of the cylinder sleeve above the cylinder block deck can vary under the same head, as long as all are within the 0.023–0.029 inch (0.584–0.737 mm) specification. * Sleeve ID may be 4.872 (123.749 mm) minimum at top of sleeve due to close-in from press fit.

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SPECIFICATIONS Standard Size or Fit Component

English (Inches)

Metric (Millimeters)

CYLINDER HEAD Alignment across exhaust ports

0.005

0.127

Deck flatness

0.0035

0.0889

Overall height

6.391–6.397

162.331–162.484

— upper and intermediate

0.001–0.003 tight

0.0254–0.0762

— lower

0.0015–0.004 tight

0.0381–0.1016

— upper and intermediate bore

0.9360–0.9375

23.8633–23.9014

— lower bore

0.904–0.906

22.962–23.012

— upper and intermediate

0.9385–0.9390

23.165–23.368

— lower 1/2 inch (12.7 mm)

0.9075–0.9080

23.0505–23.0632

— width

0.030–0.036

0.762–0.914

— depth

0.005–0.013

0.127–0.330

— ID

5.137–5.139

130.479–130.531

Valve guide OD

0.6881–0.6886

17.4777–17.4904

Valve guide ream ID (after installation) inlet and exhaust (used with 3/8 valve stem)

0.3745–0.3755

9.5123–9.5377

Top end of valve guide to valve spring seat

0.959 ± 0.040

24.359 ± 1.016

Valve guide bore in head

0.686–0.687

17.424–17.450

Valve guide to bore (press fit)

0.0011–0.0026

0.0279–0.0660

Injection nozzle holder insert to bore fit

Injection nozzle holder insert bore

Injection nozzle holder insert OD

Fire ring groove

Valve guide extension (fire deck to top of guide)

5.24 ± 0.03

133.096 ± 0.762

Yoke guide pin OD

0.4389–0.4392

11.1481–11.1557

Yoke guide pin installed height

1.853–1.913

47.066–48.590

— exhaust

0.066 ± 0.015 inch

1.676 ± 0.381

— inlet

0.066 ± 0.015 inch

1.676 ± 0.381

Valve seat width

Valve seat insert face angle — inlet

20° 30′ ± 15′

— exhaust

30° 15′ ± 15′

Valve seat width runout (FIM)

0.001

0.0254

— exhaust

1.6875–1.6885

42.8625–42.8879

— inlet

1.8285–1.8295

46.4439–46.4693

— exhaust

1.692–1.693

42.977–43.002

— inlet

1.831–1.832

46.507–46.533

Valve seat insert counterbore diameter

Valve seat OD

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SPECIFICATIONS Standard Size or Fit Component

English (Inches)

Metric (Millimeters)

Valve seat insert press fit in head — exhaust

0.0035–0.0055

0.0889–0.1397

— inlet

0.0015–0.0035

0.0381–0.0889

— exhaust

0.372–0.376

9.449–9.550

— inlet

0.360–0.364

9.144–9.246

— LH for round pin

0.6259–0.6263

15.8979–15.9080

— RH for blade pin

0.6831–0.6835

17.3507–17.3609

— LH for round pin

0.6237–0.6247

15.8420–15.8674

— RH for blade pin

0.6807–0.6817

17.2898–17.3152

— LH round pin

0.6251–0.6255

15.8775–15.8877

— RH blade pin

0.6821–0.6825

17.3253–17.3355

Crankshaft seal mounting bore

6.748–6.752

171.3992–171.5008

Flywheel housing transmission mounting face runout (TIR*)

0.008 (max)*

0.2032 (max)*

Valve seat counterbore depth

FLYWHEEL AND HOUSING Dowel pin hole in flywheel housing

Dowel pin hole in cylinder block

Dowel pin OD

Flywheel housing transmission pilot bore radial runout (TIR*)

0.010 (max)*

0.254 (max)*

Flywheel housing rear seal bore runout (TIR*)

0.009 (max)*

0.2286 (max)*

Starter motor mounting bore

3.625–3.629

92.075–92.117

* Must be held relative to main bearing bores. Check runout with an alignment bar installed through the cylinder block main bearing bores.

OIL PUMP Gear-to-cover end clearance

0.0035–0.0060

0.0889–0.1524

Gear-to-cavity side clearance

0.0030–0.0045

0.0762–0.1143

Gear backlash in pump

0.018–0.035

0.4572–0.889

Oil pump drive gear-to-oil pump driven gear backlash

0.006–0.016

0.152–0.406

Relief valve spring, free length

6.40

162.56

Spring pressure when compressed to 5.56 inches (14.12 cm)

60.35–66.55 lbs.

27.4–30.2 kg

Relief valve opening pressure

90–115 psi

621–793 kPa

32–40 lbs.

14.5–18.2 kg

(−)0.002–(+)0.020

(−)0.0508–(+)0.508

— pin bore hole ID in piston skirt

2.2493–2.2499

57.133–57.148

— length

3.820–3.825

97.028–97.155

OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE Oil filter bypass relief valve opening pressure PISTON Top, extension above cylinder block deck at TDC Wrist pin

— pin to connecting rod bushing clearance

0.00105–0.00165

0.02667–0.04191

— OD

2.24875–2.24895

57.11825–57.12333

— pin to piston skirt clearance

0.00035–0.00115

0.00889–0.02921

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SPECIFICATIONS Standard Size or Fit Component Piston-to-liner clearance 90 degrees from pin axis

English (Inches)

Metric (Millimeters)

0.003–0.005

0.076–0.127

4.912

124.765

Compression rings — No. 349GC3101

0.016–0.028

0.406–0.711

Compression rings — No. 349GC3102

0.013–0.025

0.330–0.635

Oil control ring — No. 350GC340

0.013–0.028

0.330–0.711

Piston ring side clearance for 349GC3102 compression ring (new)

0.0016–0.0036

0.0406–0.0914

Piston ring side clearance for 350GC340 oil control ring (new)

0.0016–0.0038

0.0406–0.0965

Piston ring side clearance (used)

Maximum 0.0045

Maximum 0.1143

Ring groove service limit over 0.120 inch pins (3.048 mm) Top groove PISTON RINGS Piston ring end gap — when checked in 4.875 gauge diameter

NOTE: Refer to MACK branch or distributor for specifications for piston ring part numbers not listed above.

NOTE: For every 0.001 in. (0.0254 mm) increase in gauge diameter, ring gap increases by 0.003 in. (0.076 mm).

ROCKER ARM Ratio

1.5:1

Hole ID

1.1301–1.1311

28.7045–28.7299

Hole-to-shaft clearance

0.0009–0.0027

0.0229–0.06858

Shaft OD

1.1284–1.1292

28.6614–28.6817

Push rod overall length — intake and exhaust (flat to cup top)

16.301–16.363

414.045–415.620

— RH for round pin

0.4987–0.4997

12.6670–12.6924

— LH for blade pin

0.5557–0.5567

14.1148–14.1402

— RH for round pin

0.5005–0.5012

12.7127–12.7305

— LH for blade pin

0.5577–0.5584

14.1656–14.1834

— RH round pin

0.5000–0.5003

12.7000–12.7076

— LH blade pin

0.5571–0.5575

14.1503–14.1605

Crankshaft seal mounting bore

3.9995–4.0025

101.5873–101.6635

Crankshaft seal square to hub

0.010

0.254

TIMING GEAR COVER Dowel pin hole in cylinder block

Dowel pin hole in timing gear cover

Dowel pin OD

Crankshaft seal mounting bore-to-crank runout (TIR*)

0.015 in.

0.381

Hydraulic pump mounting bore

3.2525–3.2545

82.6135–82.6643

* Must be held relative to main bearing bores. Check runout with an alignment bar installed through the cylinder block main bearing bores.

TIMING GEAR Camshaft gear to auxiliary shaft gear

0.001–0.011

0.025–0.279

Shaft end play

0.003–0.006

0.0762–0.1524

Bearing radial check (measured at bearings)

0.018–0.029

0.4572–0.7366

TURBOCHARGER Model

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SPECIFICATIONS Standard Size or Fit Component

English (Inches)

Metric (Millimeters)

VALVE Deck to valve face — inlet

+0.0425 ± 0.007

+1.0795 ± 0.1778

— exhaust

− 0.021 ± 0.007 in.

−1.5334 ± 0.1778

— inlet

0.0015–0.0035

0.0381–0.0889

— exhaust

0.0025–0.0045

0.0635–0.1143

— inlet

0.012–0.020

0.3048–0.508

— exhaust

0.024–0.032

0.610–0.813

Face runout, inlet and exhaust

0.0015

0.0381

Stem to guide (clearance)

Stem to rocker arm lash (cold static)

Seat angle (on valve) — inlet

20° ± 15′

— exhaust

29° 45′ ± 15′

Stem OD — inlet

0.372–0.373

9.449–9.474

— exhaust

0.3710–0.3720

9.4234–9.4488

VALVE SPRINGS Spring free length

2.640

67.056

Spring pressure when compressed to 1.435 in. (36.45 mm)

142.5–157.5 lbs.

64.6–71.4 kg

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SPECIFICATIONS TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS M-E7 Component Torque Specifications

All components are to be clean and free from foreign material or corrosion. Assemblies are to be made using suitable tools and procedures so that no permanent damage will occur as a result of the assembly.

Threads, washer and underhead of screw of washer face of nuts should be lubricated with engine oil, unless otherwise specified.

The following listed fasteners require the use of a calibrated manual torque wrench.

Fasteners noted by an asterisk * require retorque after engine run-in.

Fasteners noted by a pound sign # have English threads.

Torque is ± 10% of that listed unless otherwise specified.

Torque Description

Lb-Ft

N•m

Aftercooler brace-to-cylinder head bolt

40

54

Aftercooler-to-block mounting bracket bolt

170

231

Aftercooler top-, bottom- and side-cover screw

13 #

18 #

Alternator bracket-to-cylinder block stud nut

65

88

Alternator link-to-alternator bracket screw

65

88

Alternator link-to-alternator screw

65

88

Alternator mounting screw

65

88

Alternator pulley nut

75 #

102 #

Auxiliary driveshaft front gear nut (dry) (See Note 1 in “Specification Footnotes” on page 299)

300

407

Auxiliary driveshaft hole cover stud nut

40 ± 20%

54 ± 20%

Auxiliary driveshaft thrust washer-to-block screw

15 ± 20%

20 ± 20%

Blow-By Recirculation Unit mounting bracket screw

13 #

18 #

Blow-By Recirculation Unit mounting clamp screw

6

8

Blow-by Recirculation Unit drain tube compression nut

27–32 lb-ft

37–43 N•m

Buttress screw (See Note 2 in “Specification Footnotes” on page 299)

95 ± 5%

129 ± 5%

Camshaft thrust washer-to-block screw

15 ± 20%

20 ± 20%

Centrifugal oil filter drain fitting stud nut

40 ± 20%

54 ± 20%

Connecting rod screw

30 plus 90° angle

41 plus 90° angle

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SPECIFICATIONS Torque Description

Lb-Ft

N•m

Crankcase drain plug

55 ± 20%

75 ± 20%

Cover plate on cylinder-head cover screw

15 ± 20%

20 ± 20%

Cylinder head capscrew (See Note 3 in “Specification Footnotes” on page 299)

195–215

264–292

Cylinder head cover screw

16 ± 20%

22 ± 20%

Electric starter motor screw

65 lb-ft

88 N•m

Engine turnover bracket screw

40

54

Exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolt

89

121

Exhaust manifold water inlet tube-to-water pump housing screw

15

20

Fan drive pulley to hub screw

40

54

Flywheel housing-to-cylinder block screw

170

231

Flywheel-to-crankshaft screw

185

251

Front lifting eye-to-cylinder head screw

40

54

Front lifting eye-to-water pump hosing screw

69

94

Fuel filter adapter-to-bracket screw

23 #

31 #

Hydraulic pump-to-timing cover stud nut

40 ± 20%

54 ± 20%

Injection line clamp bracket stud nut

40 ± 20%

54 ± 20%

Injection nozzle clamping screw

45

61

Injection pump driven gear hub-to-injection pump shaft nut (dry)

200

271

Injection pump driven gear-to-hub screw

40

54

Injection pump mounting stud nut

45

61

Inlet manifold-to-cylinder head screw

40

54

Main bearing capscrew (See Note 2 in “Specification Footnotes” on page 299)

200–220

271–298

Mixer/exit pipe-to-turbocharger screw

23 #

31 #

Nozzle fuel inlet tube clamp screw (at cylinder head)

35 ± 20%

47 ± 20%

Nozzle fuel inlet tube nut (at cylinder head)

25 ± 20%

34 ± 20%

Nozzle fuel inlet tube nut (at pump)

25 ± 20%

34 ± 20%

Oil cooler fitting-to-water pump

60

81

Oil cooler oil inlet tube screw

40 ± 20%

54 ± 20%

Oil cooler water inlet/outlet fitting screw

20

27

Oil cooler and oil filter fitting-to-oil filter bracket screw

40 ± 20%

54 ± 20%

Oil fill tube-to-cylinder block screw

15 ± 20%

20 ± 20%

Oil filter bracket-to-cylinder block screw

60

81

Oil filter valve plunger spring cap

100 ± 20%

136 ± 20%

Oil level indicator guide nut

25

34

— 8-mm screw

23 ± 20%

31 ± 20%

— Shoulder bolt/stud

15 ± 20%

20 ± 20%

Oil pump driven gear retaining nut

60

81

Oil pump-to-cylinder block mounting screw

40

54

Oil pump housing cover screw

15

20

Oil pan-to-cylinder block fasteners

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SPECIFICATIONS Torque Description

Lb-Ft

N•m

Oil pump inlet fitting and cover plate-to-pump assembly screw

35

48

Oil pump pressure relief valve cap

80 ± 20%

109 ± 20%

Piston cooling nozzle screw

15 ± 20%

20 ± 20%

Raw water pump adapter-to-cylinder block screw

54

73

Raw water pump coupling-to-raw water pump shaft nut

60 #

81 #

Raw water pump-to-adapter stud nut

25 #

34 #

Raw water pump inlet/outlet tube screw

23 #

31 #

Raw water pump end cover screw

75–80 (lb-in) #

8.5–9.0 #

Raw water pump housing-to-pump body screw

14 #

19 #

Return-to-idle bracket

40

54

Rocker arm adjusting screw nut

40 ± 20%

54 ± 20%

Rocker arm bracket-to-cylinder head screw

40

54

Rocker arm shaft locating screw

23 # ± 20%

31 # ± 20%

Shutdown solenoid-to-mounting bracket screw

6

8

Shutdown solenoid mounting bracket-to-cylinder block screw

40

54

Starter magnetic relay-to-mounting bracket screw

6

8

Starter magnetic relay mounting bracket-to-cylinder block screw

15

20

Throttle lever bracket-to-injection pump shut-off lever screw

6

8

Timing gear cover and front support bracket-to-cylinder block screw

70

95

Timing gear cover-to-cylinder block screw

40 ± 20%

54 ± 20%

Timing hole cover screw

40 ± 20%

54 ± 20%

Timing indicator screw

15 ± 20%

20 ± 20%

Transmission-to-flywheel housing screw

40

54

Turbocharger oil drain-to-cylinder block screw

40

54

Turbocharger oil inlet tube screw

23 # ± 20%

31 # ± 20%

Turbocharger oil drain tube screw

23 # ± 20%

31 # ± 20%

Turbocharger-to-exhaust manifold stud nut

40

54

Turbocharger water inlet tube-to-cylinder block screw

15

20

Valve yoke screw locknut

33 ± 20%

45 ± 20%

Vibration damper hub bolt

360 ± 20%

488 ± 20%

Vibration damper-to-hub screw

45

61

Water conditioner adapter-to-mounting bracket screw

15

20

Water manifold-to-block screw

33

45

Water outlet fitting-to-water manifold screw

15

20

Water pump cover-to-water pump housing screw

15

20

Water pump shaft locknut

80 ± 20%

109 ± 20%

Water pump housing-to-cylinder block screw

60

81

Water pump support bracket screw

40

54

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SPECIFICATIONS Torque Specifications for Hose Clamps Torque ± 20 Hose Clamp Description

Lb-In

N•m

Aftercooler-to-inlet manifold tube hose clamp

60–75

6.8–8.4

Blow-By Recirculation Unit hose clamp

38

4.3

Blow-By Recirculation Unit oil drain hose clamp

28

3.2

Gear oil cooler-to-bracket clamp

60–75

6.8–8.4

Heat exchanger-to-bracket clamp

60–75

6.8–8.4

Inlet manifold coupling hose clamp

60–75

6.8–8.4

Turbocharger compressor-to-center section clamp

110–130

12.4–14.7

Turbocharger oil drain-to-oil fill tube hose clamp

25

2.8

Turbocharger-to-aftercooler tube hose clamp

60–75

6.8–8.4

Turbocharger turbine-to-center section clamp

130–150

14.7–16.9

NOTE: The band of any hose clamp in all installations should be a minimum of 0.090 inch (2.290 mm) from the end of the hose and must be clear of tube bead (when applicable).

Oetiker Stepless Spring Clamps

Following is the procedure for torquing these clamps:

The following locations use Oetiker stepless spring clamps:

1. Open screw until it stops at the “D” nut.

r

Gear oil cooler-to-aftercooler and heat exchanger hose

2. Unhook the latch from the tabs and place clamp over the hose.

r

Heat exchanger-to-oil cooler hose

r

Water outlet fitting to by-pass hose and heat exchanger hose

3. Engage all tabs in windows to the tightest position. (At this time there should be very little or no play between the clamp and hose.)

r

Front-to-rear water manifold hose

r

Raw water pump-to-aftercooler hose

r

Turbocharger water inlet and outlet hose

r

Exhaust manifold water inlet and outlet hose

Page 298

4. Tighten screw until the spring is fully compressed, then tighten 2–3 more full revolutions. (At this time there should be minimum gap between the two “D” nuts of 3/16 inch [5 mm] or larger.) (This will equate to a torque of 12–18 lb-in (1.4–2.0 N•m).

5_108.bk Page 299 Thursday, October 4, 2001 11:45 AM

SPECIFICATIONS Torque Specifications for Pipe Plugs Torque ± 20% Pipe Plugs

Lb-Ft

N•m

1/8 NPT

6

8

1/4 NPT

18

24

3/8 NPT

23

31

1/2 NPT

23

31

3/4 NPT

28

38

1 NPT

43

58

1-1/4 NPT

75

102

NOTE: All pipe plugs that are not new, which come with preapplied thread sealer, must be sealed using Loctite® PST pipe thread sealant with Teflon, or equivalent.

Specification Footnotes

NOTE 3 — CYLINDER HEAD TORQUING

NOTE 1 — AUXILIARY SHAFT GEAR RETAINING NUT INSTALLATION

Cylinder head assembly and torquing is to be performed as follows:

r

A new nut has pre-applied thread locker. No degreasing of a new nut is recommended.

However, degrease shaft threads thoroughly with Loctite® Primer-T, or equivalent, prior to nut installation.

r

1. Oil all cylinder head capscrew bosses, capscrew threads and washers with engine oil prior to assembly. Do not oil threads in cylinder block. Tighten capscrews individually on any one head in the proper sequence, as shown in this manual.

It is acceptable to reuse an auxiliary drive gear retaining nut. If reusing a nut, the nut threads, as well as the shaft threads, must also be thoroughly cleaned with Loctite® Primer-T, or equivalent, and Loctite® 277 used on the nut and shaft threads.

a.

Initially, torque all to 50 lb-ft (68 N•m).

b.

Next, torque all to 125 lb-ft (170 N•m).

c.

Finally, torque all to 205 lb-ft (278 N•m).

NOTE 2 — MAIN BEARING CAP INSTALLATION

2. After run-in procedure, in sequence, back off each capscrew individually until free, then retorque same capscrew to 205 lb-ft (278 N•m).

Main bearing cap assembly shall be performed in the following steps:

NOTE 4 — VALVE YOKE SETTING

1. Buttress screws installed finger tight in order to align the hole in the block and the hole in the main bearing cap.

1. Push down on the slipper face of yoke. Turn down yoke adjusting screw until it contacts outboard valve stem tip, as sensed by light drag on adjusting screw.

2. Main bearing capscrews torqued.

3. Buttress screws torqued.

2. Turn adjusting screw an additional 60 degrees (1/6 turn) clockwise.

3. Holding yoke adjusting screw in this position, lock jam nut.

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SPECIFICATIONS Torque Specifications for Non-Critical Fasteners PROPERTY CLASS 8.8 Tightening Torques Size (mm)

Pitch

Lb-Ft

N•m

6

0.75

6

8

6

1.00

6

8

8

1.00

15

20

8

1.25

14

19

10

1.25

30

41

10

1.50

28

38

12

1.25

55

75

12

1.75

50

68

14

1.50

86

117

14

2.00

80

109

16

1.50

133

180

16

2.00

124

168

18

1.50

193

262

18

2.50

172

233

20

1.50

270

366

20

2.50

244

331

22

1.50

365

495

22

2.50

332

450

24

2.00

459

622

24

3.00

421

571

27

2.00

666

903

27

3.00

618

838

30

2.00

928

1258

30

3.50

838

1136

33

2.00

1250

1695

33

3.50

1140

1546

36

3.00

1551

2103

36

4.00

1465

1986

Page 300

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SPECIFICATIONS PROPERTY CLASS 9.8 Tightening Torques Size (mm)

Pitch

Lb-Ft

N•m

6

0.75

7

10

6

1.00

6

8

8

1.00

16

22

8

1.25

15

20

10

1.25

33

45

10

1.50

31

42

12

1.25

59

80

12

1.75

54

73

14

1.50

94

127

14

2.00

87

118

16

1.50

144

195

16

2.00

135

183

18

1.50

210

285

18

2.50

187

254

20

1.50

293

397

20

2.50

264

358

22

1.50

395

536

22

2.50

360

488

24

2.00

498

675

24

3.00

456

618

27

2.00

722

979

27

3.00

669

907

30

2.00

1005

1363

30

3.50

908

1231

33

2.00

1355

1837

33

3.50

1235

1674

36

3.00

1681

2279

36

4.00

1587

2152

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SPECIFICATIONS PROPERTY CLASS 10.9 Tightening Torques Size (mm)

Pitch

Lb-Ft

N•m

6

0.75

9

12

6

1.00

8

11

8

1.00

21

29

8

1.25

20

27

10

1.25

42

57

10

1.50

40

54

12

1.25

76

103

12

1.75

69

94

14

1.50

120

163

14

2.00

111

151

16

1.50

184

250

16

2.00

172

233

18

1.50

268

363

18

2.50

239

324

20

1.50

374

507

20

2.50

337

457

22

1.50

505

685

22

2.50

460

624

24

2.00

636

862

24

3.00

583

790

27

2.00

922

1250

27

3.00

855

1159

30

2.00

1284

1741

30

3.50

1159

1571

33

2.00

1730

2346

33

3.50

1578

2140

36

3.00

2146

2910

36

4.00

2027

2748

Page 302

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SPECIFICATIONS ENGINE LUBRICANT AND SEALANT REQUIREMENTS Use only the following recommended sealing compounds and lubricants.

All genuine M-E7 cylinder head gaskets are precoated and do not require any type of sealing compound. Before installing new gaskets, degrease both gasket sealing surfaces to avoid leaks.

Location

Sealant or Lubricant

Cup plugs/threaded plugs

Loctite® 277 or equivalent/Teflon thread sealer

Injection nozzle holder inserts (upper and lower end)

Loctite® 620

Camshaft gear assembly

Loctite® 609

Timing gear cover

MACK Silastic (RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant) part No. 342SX32

Timing event marker with jam nut Oil filter sealing gasket

Clean engine oil

Holding metal parts in place

MACK MG-C grease or petroleum jelly (Vaseline®)

Valve stems Engine parts, fasteners (sides and threads) and washers

Clean engine oil

Cylinder sleeve seat

MACK Silastic (RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant) part No. 342SX32

Oil cooler assembly

Permatex® gasket sealer

Oil cooler assembly O-ring

Drydene® No. 4000

O-rings (except as noted)

MACK O-ring lubricant part No. 243SX41

Engine oil pressure sensor

Sealing compound on threads

Engine oil temperature sensor Coolant temperature sensor Fuel injection pump actuator connector

O-ring lube Lubrizol® No. OS-50044, or equivalent

Fuel injection pump driven gear access cover Crankshaft flange and wear ring

Loctite® 609

Turbocharger mounting nuts

Fel Pro C5A

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NOTES

Page 304

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SCHEMATIC & ROUTING DIAGRAMS

SCHEMATIC & ROUTING DIAGRAMS

Page 305

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SCHEMATIC & ROUTING DIAGRAMS ENGINE FLOW DIAGRAMS Lubrication System Flow Diagram 433

Figure 433 — Lubrication System

Page 306

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SCHEMATIC & ROUTING DIAGRAMS Cooling System Flow Diagram 434

Figure 434 — Cooling System

Page 307

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SCHEMATIC & ROUTING DIAGRAMS Fuel System Flow Diagram 435

Figure 435 — Fuel System

Page 308

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SPECIAL TOOLS & EQUIPMENT

SPECIAL TOOLS & EQUIPMENT

Page 309

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SPECIAL TOOLS & EQUIPMENT SPECIAL TOOLS Special Tools for Engine Overhaul

The MackPower™ M-E7 marine engine component/parts use English fasteners, unlike the automotive version of the E7 engine which in most cases uses metric fasteners.

Tool No.

Description

814

Midget Seal Tool

945-6041

Connecting Rod Fixture (Sweeney)

HT77136

Valve Seat Insert Counterbore

J 21588

Injector Gasket Retriever

J 22738-02

Universal Spring Tester, Model MST 50

J 23442

Piston Ring Compressor

J 2619-01

Slide Hammer

J 26589

Nozzle Insert Carbon Reamer

J 26637-A

Thermostat Seal Installer

J 26948

Depth Gauge

J 29109

Engine Stand

J 29294-B

Valve Spring Keeper Remover

J 29296

Valve Yoke Guide Pin Installer

J 29297

Nozzle Sleeve Installer

J 29510

Keystone Piston Ring Groove Gauge

J 29539-15

Top Dead Center Indicator Metric Adapter

J 29539-A

Top Dead Center (TDC) Indicator

J 29600-C

Fire Ring Groove Cutter

J 29880

Nozzle Sleeve Extractor

J 34046-A

Compression Gauge Adapter Set

J 34046-5

Compression Tester Metric Adapter (Used with J 34046-A)

J 34684

Cylinder Head Core Plug Installer (13/16 inch)

J 34687

Cylinder Head Core Plug Installer (1-1/16 inch)

J 35529

Wear Ring and Seal Installer

J 37077

Injection Timing Sensor

J 37078

P7100 Series Injection Pump Holding/Alignment Fixture

J 37085

Pump Drive Gear Aligner

J 37093

Injection Nozzle Puller

J 37481

Valve Guide Reamer (3/8-inch diameter)

J 37482

Valve Guide Remover (3/8 inch)

J 37712

Flywheel Housing/Timing Cover Locating Pin Driver

J 37713

Camshaft Bushing Installation Removal Kit (Use with J 21428-01 Kit)

Page 310

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SPECIAL TOOLS & EQUIPMENT Tool No.

Description

J 37715-A

Crankshaft Front Seal Installer

J 37716-B

Crankshaft Rear Seal Installer

J 37717

Connecting Rod Bushing Remover/Installer

J 37718

Piston Pin Burnishing Broach

J 37719

Fire Ring Groove Cutter

J 37720-C

Tappet Holders

J 37809

Valve Guide Installer (3/8 inch)

J 38048

Engine Stand Adapter Plate

J 38373

Injection Pump Drive Hub Retaining Nut Socket

J 38586

Valve Seat Installation Set

J 38880

Wear Ring Installer

J 39045

Two-Piece Piston Cooling Nozzle Aimer

J 41071

Raw Water Pump Coupling Holding Wrench

J 41461

Camshaft Removal/Installation Tool

J 42185

Belt Tension Gauge

J 42453

Valve Seal Installer

J 4558-01

Raw Water Pump Coupling Gear Puller

J 5347-B

Dial Bore Gauge

J 5902-01

Cylinder Hone and Glaze Breaker

J 6692-B

Cylinder Compression Gauge

J 7872

Magnetic Base Indicator Tool

J 8092

Universal Driver Handle (threaded 3/4-10)

PT2210

Counterbore Tool

PT2210-14

Hex Key Wrench

PT2210-3A

Counterbore Cutter Plate

PT5025

Universal Dial Depth Gauge

PT5025-11

3-inch Stylus Extension

PT5035

Flywheel Housing Dial Indicator Set

PT5035-1

Flywheel Housing Indicator Extension

PT6390l

Valve Seat Extractor Tool

PT6390-4

Collet

PT6391

Valve Seat Extractor Kit

PT6435

Cylinder Liner/Sleeve Puller (lubricate with extreme pressure lubricant J 23444-A)

PT6570-11

Dowelout, Extractor (7/16 inch)

PT6575

Basic Heavy-Duty Dowelout Kit

PT6587

Piston Ring Expander

PT7070-A

Piston Ring Compressor

Page 311

5_108.bk Page 312 Thursday, October 4, 2001 11:45 AM

NOTES

Page 312

Index.fm Page 313 Thursday, October 4, 2001 11:44 AM

INDEX

INDEX

Page 313

Index.fm Page 314 Thursday, October 4, 2001 11:44 AM

INDEX A ABOUT THE MARINE ENGINE AND ITS SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9 ADVISORY LABELS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 AFTERCOOLER INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . .246 AFTERCOOLER MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . .57 AFTERCOOLER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . .101 AIR INLET MANIFOLD INSTALLATION . . . .241 AIR INLET MANIFOLD REMOVAL . . . . . . . .105 ALTERNATOR INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . .266 ALTERNATOR REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84 ASSEMBLING CONNECTING ROD TO PISTON . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .156 AUXILIARY DRIVESHAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . .140 AUXILIARY DRIVESHAFT AND CAMSHAFT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . .140 AUXILIARY DRIVESHAFT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218 AUXILIARY DRIVESHAFT REMOVAL . . . . .115 B BATTERY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 BATTERY CHARGING ALTERNATOR . . . . . .73 BATTERY/CHARGING SYSTEM MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72 BELT DRIVE SYSTEM MAINTENANCE . . . . .45 BLOW-BY RECIRCULATION UNIT . . . . . . . .46 BLOW-BY RECIRCULATION UNIT (AIRSEP®) INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . .262 BLOW-BY RECIRCULATION UNIT (AIRSEP®) REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .86 BLOW-BY RECIRCULATION VACUUM REGULATOR AND BREATHER HOSE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .263 BLOW-BY RECIRCULATION VACUUM REGULATOR AND BREATHER HOSE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84 C CAMSHAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141 CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . .217 CAMSHAFT LOBE LIFT CHECK . . . . . . . . . .35 CAMSHAFT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116 CAMSHAFT TIMING CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . .35 CLEANING AFTERCOOLER INTERNAL COMPONENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .57 CONNECTING ROD AND PISTON INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 CONNECTING RODS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .149 CONVERSION CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5

Page 314

COOLANT IN ENGINE OIL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 COOLANT MANIFOLD INSTALLATION . . . . 241 COOLANT MANIFOLD REMOVAL . . . . . . . . 104 COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 COOLING SYSTEM FLOW DIAGRAM . . . . . 307 COOLING SYSTEM MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . 54 CRANKSHAFT DOWEL PIN REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 CRANKSHAFT FRONT SEAL INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221 CRANKSHAFT GEAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148 CRANKSHAFT HUB INSTALLATION . . . . . . 222 CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . 145 CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . 200 CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 CRANKSHAFT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 CRANKSHAFT WEAR RING INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 146 CYLINDER BLOCK COOLANT PASSAGE LEAK CHECK (CYLINDER HEADS REMOVED) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 CYLINDER BLOCK CORE PLUG AND CAMSHAFT AND AUXILIARY SHAFT BUSHING REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . 126 CYLINDER BLOCK DOWEL PINS . . . . . . . . 139 CYLINDER BLOCK RECONDITIONING . . . 121 CYLINDER HEAD AND CYLINDER BLOCK LEAK TEST PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . 36 CYLINDER HEAD AND HEAD GASKET CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 CYLINDER HEAD COOLANT PASSAGE LEAK CHECK (OFF ENGINE) . . . . . . . . . 39 CYLINDER HEAD FUEL PASSAGES LEAK CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . 227 CYLINDER HEAD OIL PASSAGE LEAK CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 CYLINDER HEAD OVERHAUL . . . . . . . . . . 157 CYLINDER HEADS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157 CYLINDER SLEEVE COUNTERBORE REPAIR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123 CYLINDER SLEEVE INSTALLATION . . . . . . 134 CYLINDER SLEEVE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . 122 D DESCRIPTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145, 284

Index.fm Page 315 Thursday, October 4, 2001 11:44 AM

INDEX E

F

ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM VENT LINE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .260 ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM VENT LINE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85 ENGINE CRANKS — WILL NOT START . . . .26 ENGINE DESIGN FEATURES AND COMPONENT LOCATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 ENGINE DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 ENGINE FEATURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286 ENGINE FLOW DIAGRAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . .306 ENGINE GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS . . . .286 ENGINE INFORMATION PLATE . . . . . . . . . . .16 ENGINE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269 ENGINE LUBRICANT AND SEALANT REQUIREMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .303 ENGINE MISFIRES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27 ENGINE MODEL IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . .16 ENGINE OIL FILL TUBE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248 ENGINE OIL FILL TUBE REMOVAL . . . . . . . .98 ENGINE OIL IN COOLANT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 ENGINE OIL MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .48 ENGINE OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS . . . . .10 ENGINE OPERATIONAL CHECK . . . . . . . . .283 ENGINE OVERHEATS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 ENGINE REASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200 ENGINE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76 ENGINE SETUP AND ADJUSTMENTS . . . .270 ENGINE STALLS AT LOW SPEEDS . . . . . . .28 ENGINE SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS . . . . . . . . . .26 ENGINE WILL NOT ACHIEVE NO-LOAD GOVERNED RPM . . . . . . . . . .30 ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 ERRATIC ENGINE SPEED . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 EXCESSIVE BLACK OR GRAY SMOKE . . . .30 EXCESSIVE BLUE OR WHITE SMOKE . . . . .31 EXCESSIVE CRANKCASE PRESSURE . . . .34 EXCESSIVE ENGINE VIBRATION . . . . . . . . .30 EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION . . . . . . .31 EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION . . . . . . . . .32 EXHAUST MANIFOLD INSTALLATION . . . .247 EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL . . . . . . . . .99 EXHAUST MIXER/EXIT PIPE (IF EQUIPPED) INSTALLATION . . . . . . .259 EXHAUST MIXER/EXIT PIPE (IF EQUIPPED) REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . .91 EXPLANATION OF NUMERICAL CODE . . . . .8

FILTER ELEMENT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . 267 FILTER ELEMENT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 FINAL PREPARATION AND OPERATIONAL CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281 FITS AND LIMITS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 289 FLYWHEEL HOUSING INSTALLATION . . . . 211 FLYWHEEL HOUSING REMOVAL . . . . . . . . 119 FLYWHEEL INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . 216 FLYWHEEL REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119 FUEL FILTER ADAPTER AND COOLANT CONDITIONER ADAPTER ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . 252 FUEL FILTER ADAPTER AND COOLANT CONDITIONER ADAPTER ASSEMBLY REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 FUEL INJECTION PUMP INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234 FUEL INJECTION PUMP REMOVAL . . . . . . 106 FUEL NOZZLE INLET TUBE ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 FUEL NOZZLE INLET TUBE ASSEMBLY REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95 FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 FUEL SYSTEM FLOW DIAGRAM . . . . . . . . 308 FUEL SYSTEM MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . 51 G GEAR OIL COOLER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65 GEAR OIL COOLER INSPECTION . . . . . . . 188 GEAR OIL COOLER INSTALLATION . . . . . . 244 GEAR OIL COOLER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . 101 GENERAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . 65, 66, 70 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS . . . . . . . . . 200, 269 GENERAL MAINTENANCE REQUIREMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 H HEAT EXCHANGER INSPECTION . . . . . . . 189 HEAT EXCHANGER INSTALLATION . . . . . 245 HEAT EXCHANGER MAINTENANCE . . . . . . 66 HEAT EXCHANGER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . 100 HEAT EXCHANGER TO OIL COOLER COOLANT TUBE INSTALLATION . . . . . 268 HEAT EXCHANGER TO OIL COOLER COOLANT TUBE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . 81 HIGH EXHAUST TEMPERATURE . . . . . . . . . 33

Page 315

Index.fm Page 316 Thursday, October 4, 2001 11:44 AM

INDEX I

O

INJECTION PUMP DRIVE HUB . . . . . . . . . .196 INJECTION PUMP FIXED-TIMING PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .273 INJECTION PUMP SHUTDOWN SOLENOID INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . .264 INJECTION PUMP SHUTDOWN SOLENOID REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78 INJECTION PUMP THROTTLE RETURN TO IDLE MECHANISM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .98 INJECTION PUMP THROTTLE RETURN TO IDLE MECHANISM INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248 INJECTOR NOZZLE HOLDER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108 INJECTOR NOZZLE INSPECTION AND CLEANING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199 INLET AND EXHAUST VALVES . . . . . . . . . .176 INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145 INSTALLATION PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . .269

OETIKER STEPLESS SPRING CLAMPS . . 298 OIL COOLER AND OIL FILTER HOUSING ASSEMBLY REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 OIL COOLER ASSEMBLY INSPECTION AND REPAIR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 OIL PAN INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 OIL PAN REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111 OIL PUMP INSPECTION AND REPAIR . . . . 184 OIL PUMP INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 OIL PUMP REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 OPERATION OF MACKPOWER™ MARINE ENGINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

L LDA ACCELERATION SMOKE CONTROL LINE INSTALLATION . . . . . .259 LDA ACCELERATION SMOKE CONTROL LINE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . .90 LOCATING PISTON TOP DEAD CENTER (TDC) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .279 LOW COMPRESSION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 LOW ENGINE OIL PRESSURE . . . . . . . . . . .33 LOW POWER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 LUBRICATION SYSTEM COMPONENTS INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181 LUBRICATION SYSTEM FLOW DIAGRAM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .306 M MAIN BEARING CAP INSTALLATION . . . . .202 MAIN BEARING CAP REMOVAL . . . . . . . . .120 MARINE ENGINE SERVICE INTERVALS . . .44 M-E7 COMPONENT TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .295 MOUNTING ENGINE IN STAND . . . . . . . . . . .81 N NOZZLE HOLDER ASSEMBLY INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232

Page 316

P PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . 288 PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD ASSEMBLY REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117 PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 PISTON COOLING SPRAY NOZZLE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137 PISTON COOLING SPRAY NOZZLE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 PISTON RINGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153 PISTONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 PUSH ROD INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 R RAW WATER PUMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 RAW WATER PUMP IMPELLER TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE . . . . . . . . . 41 RAW WATER PUMP INSPECTION AND OVERHAUL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 RAW WATER PUMP INSTALLATION . . . . . 261 RAW WATER PUMP MAINTENANCE . . . . . . 62 RAW WATER PUMP REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . 87 REBUILT ENGINE RUN-IN PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284 REMOVAL PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 REMOVING ENGINE FROM ENGINE STAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267 ROCKER ARM INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . 231 ROCKER ARM, VALVE YOKE AND PUSH ROD REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109 RUN-IN CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284

Index.fm Page 317 Thursday, October 4, 2001 11:44 AM

INDEX S

V

SAFETY INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2 SERVICE PROCEDURES AND TOOL USAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .310 SPECIAL TOOLS FOR ENGINE OVERHAUL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .310 SPECIFICATION FOOTNOTES . . . . . . . . . .299 STARTER MAGNETIC RELAY INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266 STARTER MAGNETIC RELAY REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79 STARTER MOTOR INSTALLATION . . . . . . .268 STARTER MOTOR REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . .78 SYSTEMS CHECK AND LUBRICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .281

VALVE COVER INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . 234 VALVE COVER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAFT . . . . . . . . . . . 178 VALVE YOKE AND VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270 VALVE YOKE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . 230 VESSEL PREPARATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 VIBRATION DAMPER AND CRANKSHAFT HUB REMOVAL . . . . . . . 111 VIBRATION DAMPER INSTALLATION . . . . 222

T THERMOSTAT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103 THERMOSTAT, HOUSING AND SEAL INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .242 TIMING GEAR COVER INSTALLATION . . . .221 TIMING GEAR COVER REMOVAL . . . . . . . .114 TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .310 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . .295 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR HOSE CLAMPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .298 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR NON-CRITICAL FASTENERS . . . . . . . . .300 TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR PIPE PLUGS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .299 TURBOCHARGER AND EXHAUST CONNECTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45 TURBOCHARGER INSTALLATION . . . . . . .254 TURBOCHARGER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . .92

W WATER PUMP INSPECTION (FRESH WATER) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 WATER PUMP INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . 240 WATER PUMP REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Z ZINC REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70

Page 317

Index.fm Page 318 Thursday, October 4, 2001 11:44 AM

NOTES

Page 318

MECHANICAL MARINE ENGINE

M-E7 OPERATING, MAINTENANCE AND SERVICE MANUAL PRINTED IN U.S.A. 5-108

© MACK TRUCKS, INC. 2002