FOOD & DRINK
28
JULY 2023
By Michael Stevenson
THE WINES OF
GALICIA INCLUDING BIERZO
Galicia is the isolated North Western Valdeorras is further inland which makes the climate more continental: warmer summers and cooler winters. The whites are Godillo with some region of Spain. It has the reputation as Albarino and the reds Mencia. Names to know are Rafael Palacios, the rainiest area of the country; Santiago (famous for his stunning Godellos) Telmo Rodriguez, Godeval and de Compostela, the most famous city in the Valdesil. region is one of the two wettest in Spain, Monterrei is a small DO on the Portuguese border with traces of Roman winemaking. There is a mountain there which once belonged to a king, the other being San Sebastian, so it is a hence the name. The reds are Mencia and the whites Godello. The best cool drizzly place to grow grapes. Climate of the local winemakers are Jose Luis Mateo and Candea (Mateo with change is affecting Galicia and recent the star Raul Perez). harvests have been hotter and drier than Mencia wines from Bierzo formerly. The Galician DOs (denominacion Whilst Bierzo is just outside the boundaries of Galicia it produces de origen) are Rias Baixas, Ribiero, Ribiera lovely reds and whites from Mencia and Godello as does Galicia. The area’s arrival on the world stage has been driven by three people, Sacra, Monterrei, Valdeorras and we shall Raul Perez, Ricardo Perez Palacios and his uncle Alvaro Palacios. include Bierzo which is on the border of The red is mid weight, crunchy fresh and perfumed like Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc but it is more than likely that Mencia is is Galicia and has the same grape varieties, Gamay related to the Portuguese Jaen from the Dao. With few exceptions all principally Mencia and Godello. Mencia wines are for drinking soon. Mencia offers a real opportunity Rias Baixas is the most westerly of these DOs and is famous for its white wine made mainly from the Albarino grape which has been in Galicia since Roman times. The grape has a thick skin which is useful in a wet region and good levels of natural acidity which makes a perfect match for the local seafood. Other white grapes that can be used or blended are Louriera and Treixadura. Names to know in Rias Baixas are Palacio de Fefinanes, Forjas de Salnes, Pazo de Senorano, Paco & Lola and Zarate.
for Spanish reds. The wines are different in stature, weight and power compared to most of Spain’s warmer regions so for drinking seek wines with light alcohol, lift and refreshment. Mencia, especially from Bierzo will fit the bill exceptionally well. Generally wines from Bierzo are consistently well made. The leading winemakers are Raul Perez (googling him is worth it to see his amazing beard), Descendientes de J Palacios, Dominio de Tares, Lovada, Luna Berberide, Mengoba and Veronica Ortega.
Ribiero is further up the River Mina from Rias Baixas. It is an old established wine region. There are records of the export of wines to England in the 17th century. The principal white grape is Godillo with some Louriero and Treixadura, and some crunchy reds. Names to know are Vina Mein, Casal de Arman and Coto de Gomaris.
There are plenty of Galician and Bierzo wines available in Menorca. De Vins on Cami Ses Vinyes in Mahon has a very wide choice as does Enrique Penalver, Avda Central 37 Poima Mahon, Ulisses in Mahon and Ciutadela and Catchot on the Mahon Poligono to name but a few. Supermarkets such as Eroski, Mercadona and Binipreu also stock some.
Ribiera Sacra is north of Ribiero with vineyards running down to the River Sil. Reds are made from Mencia grapes and the whites mainly from Godillo, Louriera and Treixadura. The climate is marginally warmer than Rias Baixas but still pretty cool. Names to know are Adegas Moure, Algueira, Guimaro and Castro Candaz.
Galician and Bierzo wines are very worthwhile seeking out. If you have never tasted them before I am sure you will be very pleasantly surprised. Happy drinking.
D O N ’ T M I S S A N E D I T I O N , S U B S C R I B E T O D AY ! V I S I T: R O Q U E TA M A G A Z I N E . N E T
