THE WINES OF GALICIA

Including Bierzo

Galicia is the isolated North Western region of Spain. It has the reputation as the rainiest area of the country; Santiago de Compostela, the most famous city in the region is one of the two wettest in Spain, the other being San Sebastian, so it is a cool drizzly place to grow grapes. Climate change is affecting Galicia and recent harvests have been hotter and drier than formerly. The Galician DOs (denominacion de origen) are Rias Baixas, Ribiero, Ribiera Sacra, Monterrei, Valdeorras and we shall include Bierzo which is on the border of Galicia and has the same grape varieties, principally Mencia and Godello.

Rias Baixas is the most westerly of these DOs and is famous for its white wine made mainly from the Albarino grape which has been in Galicia since Roman times. The grape has a thick skin which is useful in a wet region and good levels of natural acidity which makes a perfect match for the local seafood. Other white grapes that can be used or blended are Louriera and Treixadura. Names to know in Rias Baixas are Palacio de Fefinanes, Forjas de Salnes, Pazo de Senorano, Paco & Lola and Zarate.

Ribiero is further up the River Mina from Rias Baixas. It is an old established wine region. There are records of the export of wines to England in the 17th century. The principal white grape is Godillo with some Louriero and Treixadura, and some crunchy reds. Names to know are Vina Mein, Casal de Arman and Coto de Gomaris.

Ribiera Sacra is north of Ribiero with vineyards running down to the River Sil. Reds are made from Mencia grapes and the whites mainly from Godillo, Louriera and Treixadura. The climate is marginally warmer than Rias Baixas but still pretty cool. Names to know are Adegas Moure, Algueira, Guimaro and Castro Candaz.

Valdeorras is further inland which makes the climate more continental: warmer summers and cooler winters. The whites are Godillo with some Albarino and the reds Mencia. Names to know are Rafael Palacios, (famous for his stunning Godellos) Telmo Rodriguez, Godeval and Valdesil.

Monterrei is a small DO on the Portuguese border with traces of Roman winemaking. There is a mountain there which once belonged to a king, hence the name. The reds are Mencia and the whites Godello. The best of the local winemakers are Jose Luis Mateo and Candea (Mateo with the star Raul Perez).

Mencia wines from Bierzo

Whilst Bierzo is just outside the boundaries of Galicia it produces lovely reds and whites from Mencia and Godello as does Galicia. The area’s arrival on the world stage has been driven by three people, Raul Perez, Ricardo Perez Palacios and his uncle Alvaro Palacios. The red is mid weight, crunchy fresh and perfumed like Pinot Noir, Gamay and Cabernet Franc but it is more than likely that Mencia is is related to the Portuguese Jaen from the Dao. With few exceptions all Mencia wines are for drinking soon. Mencia offers a real opportunity for Spanish reds. The wines are different in stature, weight and power compared to most of Spain’s warmer regions so for drinking seek wines with light alcohol, lift and refreshment. Mencia, especially from Bierzo will fit the bill exceptionally well. Generally wines from Bierzo are consistently well made. The leading winemakers are Raul Perez (googling him is worth it to see his amazing beard), Descendientes de J Palacios, Dominio de Tares, Lovada, Luna Berberide, Mengoba and Veronica Ortega.

There are plenty of Galician and Bierzo wines available in Menorca. De Vins on Cami Ses Vinyes in Mahon has a very wide choice as does Enrique Penalver, Avda Central 37 Poima Mahon, Ulisses in Mahon and Ciutadela and Catchot on the Mahon Poligono to name but a few. Supermarkets such as Eroski, Mercadona and Binipreu also stock some.

Galician and Bierzo wines are very worthwhile seeking out. If you have never tasted them before I am sure you will be very pleasantly surprised. Happy drinking.

Now for this month’s recommendations:

Tintos

PETIT PETTACUM, MENCIA 2019, BIERZO, 14% ABV, ENRIQUE PENALVER 7.64 €

Dark red with a dark fruit seductive nose. Lovely ripe dark fruit with good balance and soft tannins but some complexity. Very sapid and quaffable. Stunning value. Excellent with meat dishes both hot and cold.

THE FLOWER AND THE BEE, SOUSON, COTO DE GOMARIZ, RIBIERO 2020, 13.5% ABV, DE VINS SPECIAL OFFER 8.46 € AND OTHER LOCAL WINE MERCHANTS.

Dark ruby with a soft interesting nose. Ripe subtle layers with good balance and acidity and grows in the mouth. Dry but delicios, damson and dark berry fruit from the local Souson grape, good dark fruit finish.

ULTREIA, MENCIA, RAUL PEREZ BIERZO 2020, 13.5% ABV, DE VINS 14.95 €

Lovely cherry colour with dark red fruit nose. Ripe dark fruit, cherries and a hint of cranberries. Very tasty, aromatic, good tannicity, fresh and crisp and still evolving. Lovely wine made by the great bearded winemaker Raul Perez. Good with meat.

Blancos

GODELLO MAR DE UVAS, DO MONTERREI, 13% ABV, MERCADONA 5.50 €

Lemon gold in colour with a good citrus apply nose. Nice classy Godello, stunning fruit and typicity. Mercadona’s own label, a very drinkable bargain with complexity and a long finish. Fill your car boots with it!

ABAD DOM BUENO, GODELLO, BIERZO 2022, 13% ABV, DE VINS 9.55 €

Very pale with a fresh fruity nose. Crisp pure Godello fruit, good balance and acidity. A tasty mouthful but delicate and delicious. A good finish. Very good with prawns.

THE FLOWER AND THE BEE, TREIXADURA, COTO DE GOMARIZ, RIBIERO 2020, 13.5ABV, DE VINS 9.95 €

Pale greenish gold with a nice aromatic citrus nose. Crisp complex fruit, typical Treixadura. A well made nice elegant wine with a lovely finish. Highly recommended. Good with shellfish and fish dishes.