Rafters at The Seasons Hotel.
NEW BAR CRAWL continued from 45 Like the Pioneer, which has the same owners, The Hohenberger’s walls feature prints from the famous photographer’s collection, leading to another game of “Guess Who?” There’s Wash Barnes, Josh Bond, and old Valentine Penrose. Our charming and efficient bartender, Sierra, crafted a stiff Old Fashioned for Mrs. Sampler and poured me a Bells dark beer called, humiliatingly for a grown man, “Teddy Bear Kisses.” The atmosphere is cordial. A couple of shoppers come in for a break in the very comfortable spot. At what point does simple bar hopping turn in to an out-and-out bar crawl? You’ll know. Just make sure you have a designated driver. Fortunately, I had arranged for my sober brother to transport us to our next stop, The Rafters at Seasons Hotel. The Season’s bar has been completely transformed into a modern, open and inviting space with a comfortable lounge surrounding a large, three-sided polished granite bar. Stone, wood and metal combined with all new windows and doors create a sleek, plush atmosphere. The original rustic feel of the Seasons has been retained in the original columns of Brown County stone and the old wooden beams (hence the name). I ordered a “Caribbean mule” from the new menu and Mrs. Sampler had a glass of white wine. We chatted with some nice folks who had just moved here from Illinois. Relaxing and enjoyable. As a nightcap, I felt that a little snort of good whiskey might be in order, so I finished my crawl up on Hard Truth Hill, where they make and age all the bourbon they sell right on the property. One aspect of drinking out in public is just being around people; in a loud, happy room, with several strangers on a cozy stool, staring
46 Our Brown County Jan./Feb. 2022
at the man in the mirror through a forest of bottles. For those who crave the togetherness and energy of a big crowd, the bar at Hard Truth is the place to be. It is always crowded so, as one online review at their website observed, “Be prepared to wait.” The industrial-looking 25-stool bar and the huge warehouse-sized dining room have been packed out every time I have been there. In its first year of operation, this place attracted a quarter of a million people. The drinks menu features their own Quaff ON! brews including “Six Foot Blonde”, “Busted Knuckle Porter,” “Aquaffalypse,” “Quafftoberfest,” and Hard Truth spirits like the popular Cinnamon Vodka and Toasted Coconut Rum. Judging by the crowds, they must be on to something up there. They are nurturing a community, a culture based in conviviality, accessibility, and a sense of belonging. It is destination drinking, an adult theme park where the theme is drinking. I sampled the Sipes’ Straight Bourbon Whiskey, named for Henry A. Sipes, purportedly Brown County’s first known distiller. Let us pause to reconsider the simple joy of that American institution, the humble bar. While sitting home alone, sober, it may not seem that appealing, but after you get out there, find your spot, have a few welcoming libations among the populous at large, it seems right and good, and even fun. You may even find yourself profoundly satisfied.
