KAUNAS FULL OF CULTURE
Waters
Illustration by Julija Račiūnaitė
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Massimo Vitali (“Kaunas Photo” exhibition “Beach season”)
Schoolchildren of Kaunas photographed the “city of rivers” in spring. This educational programme called Kaunas – A River City marked the start of the 14th season of Kaunas Photo, one of the most important yearly cultural events. The activities moved to the beach on June 1st because the theme this year is water. You can see the international exhibition of the festival at M. Žilinskas Art Gallery, however the luckiest of you were those who dived into the Girstutis pool to see shots by Berta Tilmantaitė exhibited at the very bottom.
Rivers in the city of rivers Once again we’re enslaved by the power of coincidences reassuring us about the value and timeliness of relevant ideas. Our last summer was spent in parks, while this hot season begins with exploring the waters of Kaunas from all sorts of different angles.
crucial to the city’s history. Finally, you can find an article we published in May online about how Kaunas could’ve become a city of two sea harbours, written by a representative of the historical society, which, by the way, held a conference dedicated to rivers this year.
Therefore, we’ve found an artist who paints Nemunas, a journalist who initiated an expedition through it, a naturalist who wrote a book about it, a public figure who creates new rituals in Santaka and a scientist who’s examining what happened in Kaunas before Kaunas existed. Also, we’ve caught the sailing wind at the Kaunas Lagoon, the birth of which is
P.S. If you’re hoping to take pictures in Kaunas this summer, don’t forget to use the hashtag #KaunasPhotoh2o and be sure to discover what happens to the film if you soak it in water for a long time. You can try that next to the funicular in Žaliakalnis, in the future square of Levinas, where the first Kaunas Photo exposition is open
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In order for the country to progress, a harsh choice was made to save Kaunas from yearly floods. The artificial lake was 80 km long and the area of 65 m2 drowned 45 villages with 721 houses. This event is examined in the Kaunas 2022 programme called Kauno Atlantida (Kaunas’ Atlantis), but we’ll get back to that later. Now let’s see what the lagoon is up to.
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Kaunas Lagoon, an essential part of the city’s rhythm, was born only in 1959 after Nemunas was dammed. 1960 saw the end of a five-year construction period of the Kaunas Hydroelectric Power Plant, a biggest collector of renewable resources in Lithuania.
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Photographs by Artūras Bulota
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The first yacht club of Kaunas (later named Perkūnas) was established in 1932 next to Aleksotas bridge. However, the story of the current yacht club in the Kaunas Lagoon started in 1950, when Viktoras Bagdanovas and his friends founded the Žalgiris fellowship. Members were soon pleasantly surprised by the news that Nemunas was being dammed, and the youngsters managed to get 10 hectares of land next to Pažaislis from the city government.
The sport sector was very strong during Soviet years, and, after independence was regained, a centre for sailing was opened at the yacht club in 1992, while a sailing school Bangpūtys was established in 2001, with a rowing school joining recently. In all, almost 500 Kaunas children are engaged in water sports. Gintarė Sheidt, a silver medal winner of the Beijing Olympics was training here together with many other promising athletes. Bangpūtys is ranked third among European schools; it is headed by Rimantas Vilkas who moved here from Vilnius because of favourable winds.
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Auksė Valeikaitė, a yachtswoman of the Optimist category is the only one to represent Lithuania at the international children’s games that will take place here in July. R. Vilkas tells us that kids are first taken on a simple boat through the lagoon to get used to water and conquer any fears. They scare each other with stories about the Kaunas Lagoon sharks!
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A few decades ago, when circumstances matched the aims (for instance, the progress of the plastic glass industry), enthusiasts of sailing worked hard to build a real “Kaunastic” yacht – the RS280. There are over 15 of them now, with ten kept in Kaunas. Most of them can be seen in the competition at the Kaunas Lagoon, also at the Curonian Lagoon’s regatta that’s jokingly referred to as “the Ramadan of Lithuanian yachtsmen”, which was won six times by one of the constructors of the RS-280, Raimondas Šiugždinis.
kauno-marios-128 Prieš porą dešimtmečių, sutapus norams ir galimybėms (pavyzdžiui, progresavo stiklo plastiko technologijos), Kauno buriavimo entuziastai pasiraitojo rankoves ir sukonstravo tikrą kaunietišką jachtą RS-280. Jų iš viso pagaminta daugiau nei 15, 10 jų yra Kaune, beveik visos nuolat dalyvauja šios klasės jachtų varžybose Kauno mariose, taip pat – „Lietuvos buriuotojų ramadanu“ juokais vadinamoje Kuršių marių regatoje, kurią vienas RS-280 konstruktorių Raimondas Šiugždinis laimėjo 6 kartus.
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The only Lithuanian – and that means national – yacht is so far one of the fastest. This category is an example for Lithuanian sailing. The structure of the yacht has changed a bit since the start. Another constructor of the RS-280, Saulius Pajarskas is the captain of the championship-winning Raganosis. This yacht was the first one in the competition that took place in June here as well. The crew can consist of 4-6 people, and the season of the lagoon ends in October.
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Champions tell us that the sails to a yacht are what tyres are to a Formula 1 car. Ideally, the sails need to be changed every year, however that would be very expensive, and Lithuania unfortunately doesn’t have an industry for that. “The larger yacht is the faster one�, S. Pajarskas reminds us the hydrodynamic rule and notes that, although being small, the RS280 model is able to compete with larger yachts.
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Around 170 ships live in the Kaunas Lagoon, including speedboats that were made in a Kaunas-based company Marex Boats led by S. Pajarskas. He won the Curionian Lagoon regatta 11 times and is an eight-time champion of Lithuania, also a member of the historic Ambersail crew. His wife Asta trains youngsters in the Optimist category, so do we even need to tell you what the Pajarskas children love to do most?
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New ritual, old sole Kotryna Lingienė and Kęstutis Lingys Photographs by Artūras Bulota
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One of the programmes of Kaunas 2022 looks back at water, much like our current edition. There were a few projects in the plans, some of which are about to start, like Kauno Atlantida (Kaunas’ Atlantis), an idea to remember the time before the Kaunas Lagoon formed. Some are already in the making, for example, a traditional kite festival on the coast of Nemunas in Zapyškis – it’s estimated that around 20,000 people will gather for that in 2022. Let’s not forget TẽKA, a torrential Nemunas-based initiative we’ve been talking about several times in the magazine.
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This time let’s take a second to focus on fishermen, people who can be found anywhere around the world, next to water. Also, the Day of the fish and the fisherman, a celebration that only took place for the first time in Kaunas last year, and now it’s coming back to the confluence of Nemunas and Neris. The initiator Aistė Grybauskaitė has been leading the Old Town community for years, she’s also the hard-working head of Republica Kaunensis and the recipient of the Kaunasian Of The Year award of 2015.
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Last year saw Kaunas celebrate fisherman’s day for the first time, while the year before that had Klaipėda do it. Why only now? I can’t speak for Klaipėda because I only went to check the celebration out there after the event in Kaunas had finished. As for Kaunas… I was busy with the development of Old Town for five years, we’ve revived some of the spaces and we were always thinking about working with rivers next.
It’s important to me that my events wouldn’t be so-so; I’m looking for historic, cultural or spiritual background to give meaning to them so that the residents would like to hear more. Thus one of the starting points in Kaunas was the Day of the fish and the fisherman (since 1984), which is also the Day of St Peter, patron of fishermen. We chose June for the celebration and a legend by Franciscan and Benedictine monks for the religious and historic context. Did you visit any ideologically similar events to learn about how to organise such a celebration? No, we didn’t consult with any other organisers, we simply worked out the pros and cons of our rivers and talked for many days with the representatives of the fishing community, who helped me understand much more about the essence of fishing. After all
this, I was ready to propose an original concept for our event which was tailored just for Kaunas. Fishing is quite personal. Many fishermen that you pass on the coastline look like introverts. So isn’t a mass celebration for fishermen a kind of a cognitive dissonance? What’s the main message of this day? Typically, fishermen pack up their things for the weekend and leave while their family members stay in the city. My goal was to interact with the whole family, both spouses and children. A bit further away from the city centre, the serious part takes place – the three-part fishing championship with one part dedicated to professionals. We want absolutely anyone enjoying fishing or eating fish to participate. There will be tastings, educational activities, presentations of trophies,
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collections and prizes, also a special exhibition by the environmental protection department of the Kaunas region. The art space will have expositions, workshops, games for kids, talks with scouts. What would you like to protect your event from becoming? I don’t want it to become a cheap fair, another occasion to drink. Some people associate fishermen with alcohol first – we understand this situation and so we’re gradually introducing other aspects. It’s a time of sharing, communicating, discovering and learning. Tell us the story of Franciscan monks giving fish as a gift to Benedictines. What’s the symbolic meaning of this act for Kaunas? This happened on the Day of forgiveness, celebrated on the 2nd of August, at the Papal Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels in Assisi. More than 800 years ago, Francis of Assisi addressed the Benedictines about a possible place for prayer. The abbot decided to give Francis the old chapel called Porziuncola without asking for any remuneration, stating that this chapel should become the future fraternity of Francis’ faith brothers. From that day, the Franciscans send a basket of fish to the Benedictines each year as a thank you, while the latter ones gift a jar of oil as a sign of friendship. The ritual is alive in Assisi and in other destinations where Benedictines and Franciscans are situated close by. Today we really need interactions like these to stop for a moment and appreciate what our friendships mean to us. Interestingly, during the first celebration in Kaunas, the re-enactment of this legend was done not by professional actors but by Franciscan
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brothers: they gave a basket of freshly-caught fish to the local Benedictine sisters, who then sang authentic gratitude songs – this was news to me! On the other hand, people concerned with the health of our planet have a day at the end of March when they remind us of fishing being a very harmful activity to animals. What’s your take on that? Fishing traditions are very old, even Jesus taught his pupils to fish. I have nothing against those people creating new movements and rules, it’s their own right, and our celebration is probably not for them. However, I would invite them to join our activities on the Day of St Francis the protector of animals on the 30th of September. Social activities and projects. How important are they to you? I was educated in business management and psychology, both of which help me with my social work for six years. Probably many of us have a point in our lives when we realise that it’s not the work hours and the pay that makes us happy. The merits of such work can’t be seen in your bank balance – I feel as if I get double the amount of kindness I share back. This, by the way, is also true for negative deeds. The biggest imaginable reward is that you are able to spark positive emotions in thousands of people with your work. The Day of the fish and the fisherman is officially part of an approved plan of Kaunas 2022. What’s the vision of your event? When I received an invite from the Kaunas 2022 team, I suggested my most successful events – Šokantis Senamiestis (Dancing Old Town), also the Day of St Francis the protector of
animals. I think the team was interested in the Day of the fish and the fisherman because our river coastline and riversides have tremendous potential. As for the vision, it’s an ambitious one: this year and the last, our aim was to organise a celebration for families. 2022 will witness an international event that people would treat as an original festival of Kaunas, with fishermen and their families coming from all over Europe. Our research has shown that there aren’t many developed fishing celebrations out there, so our vision might just come true.
being many jokes about a fisherman and his wife, Kaunas doesn’t feel the lack of women who fish. Last year I was given an osier-made fishing rod by the fellowship of Kaunas fishermen – they had me promise I would take part in the championship of 2017. Are there restaurants in Kaunas where one could taste fish caught here? That’s a good question! Right now the answer is no, but maybe we’ll have a place like that before 2022.
By the way, what fish do the fishermen of Kaunas catch? Last year during the celebration it was the time to catch bleaks – the winner of the championship caught around 6 kg of bleaks and she gave these fish to the Benedictine sisters. Despite there
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Almost a decade ago Edmundas Jakilaitis got into the Ambersail yacht, going on the Tūkstantmečio Odisėja (A Millennium’s Odyssey) trip. 2018 will see the finish of Nacionalinė Ekspedicija: Nemunu per Lietuvą (National Expedition: Through Lithuania via Nemunas), a project initiated by the journalist, which results in the crew “travelling across our country’s history”. We talk with Selemonas Paltanavičius, the author of a book about that expedition in another article of this edition. Getting back to Edmundas Jakilaitis, whose life was always accompanied by water – not even mentioning windsurfing or supping, we sat down with him next to Neris river in Vilnius to find out about the project’s origins. We didn’t have much time as Edmundas had to take part in one of many social initiatives he’s involved in. It looks like the host of one of the most popular TV shows does a lot, but also does a lot of what interests him. And all anyone needs to do is to record it.
Not really a child of Nemunas, yet a conqueror of it Kotryna Lingienė and Kęstutis Lingys Photographs by Dainius Ščiuka
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We’ll chat about the expedition, but what about the prologue? Was Nemunas important in the life of Kaunas-raised Edmundas Jakilaitis? Well, all Kaunasians feel they grew up by the river, but the truth is that my generation didn’t really have a close connection to Nemunas. I spent my holidays with grandparents in Kulautuva and swam in the river, but everyone looked at me like I was strange – Nemunas was very polluted at the time, sometimes you’d get a rash after swimming… That’s why the river didn’t have many rituals linked to it, only now the situation’s changing because of better economy. People invest in everything, hence the river too. But that’s only the beginning. Last year, together with my father and son, we took a small motorboat from Vytautas church in Kaunas to the Curonian Lagoon, a kind of onenight trip. We met a few Russian speedboats on the way to Sovetsk and that was that. We only saw more people when getting closer to Rusnė, however Nemunas, much like Neris, is barely active. What were your childhood interests then? How did you eventually become a journalist? I graduated from Saulės gymnasium. We had a strong focus on math, so without many considerations I started studying informatics at Kaunas University of Technology: the three of us quit after the first semester, leaving one friend behind to become a programmer. I began working as a journalist in 1996 after my first year at Vilnius University, faculty of communication. I can’t say why I chose it then, even though now I understand that
I’m really into journalism. I’m interested in other people and their thoughts much more than I’m interested in mine. I like asking over talking. This is essential in a journalist’s view on the world – others should be interesting for you. Journalists should always have that crucial curiosity, everything else can be taught. Lithuania’s also interesting, right? How was the idea for the expedition born? I usually can’t come up with something all the way from its beginning to end. The story goes like that: me and my friends have a summer house in the national park of Aukštaitija. Palūšė is nearby, and local craftsmen built a boat to go to Nida through Žeimena, Neris, Nemunas and the Curonian Lagoon. I found that fascinating. Hoping to rent that boat, I’ve gathered a team and… was sent to the infectious hospital. Some years passed and I remembered that my life obeys the rule of having to film something if you really want it done – that makes you approach the idea seriously, not just as part of your leisure. I was thinking about Nemunas carrying the history of the Panemunė region, so I contacted Alfredas Bumblauskas, the synonym of history in Lithuania. We met, had a chat, he liked the idea. Nature’s next. Selemonas Paltanavičius? Rituals – let’s take Zita Kelmickaitė. We then needed a few famous faces that Lithuanians liked: Marijonas Mikutavičius, Gabrielius Liaudanskas, Benediktas Vanagas. So now this TV show is even in schools, and former president Valdas Adamkus once called it the best Lithuanian show of all time. That was the
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Photograph by Selemonas Paltanavičius.
greatest compliment. We’re going further – this year will see us travelling through Vistula, and Dnieper comes in 2018 until we reach the Black Sea, this way “swimming through” the whole history of Lithuania. That’s how ideas come to life – little by little. Did Alfredas Bumblauskas also have new things to discover during the expedition, maybe he changed some of his views? A lot of things will surely seem different when you actually are close
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to them. Certainly, A. Bumblauskas went all throughout Lithuania with his own TV show, but yes, he still had some things to discover here. S. Paltanavičius had his own pilgrimage moment in Belarus when we visited his personal sacred spot, the birth place of Tadas Ivanauskas. It was Ivanauskas that encouraged him to become an explorer of nature – the famous personality answered S. Paltanavičius’ letter when the latter was just a kid. He was all in tears telling this story!
What personally shocked you? I live in the “Vilnius ghetto” among people that are similar to me, who think and act alike. But when you travel around Lithuania, you get to meet people so sincere that it’s hard to believe it. Sure, they’ve probably seen us on TV and want to approach us and talk, but these warm encounters were definitely the best part. Do you ever feel like you owe this project to your country? No, I never feel like I owe anything to anyone. You get some things and you give some away – that’s life. Lithuania and I are not in this marriage for the money. “National expedition” has a proud ring to it. Did you get critiqued because of it? Now other expeditions can’t be national… Yes, there’s some part of a vanity fair here. On the other hand, this project is part of the National Radio and Television, and we travelled all through the history of our country, through its nature and ethno culture. It’s a project to get to know the national treasures, so there’s semantic logic behind the name. We only felt slightly uncomfortable the first day, but then we went to Veliuona and asked the representative how many people came to meet us. He said all of them. The first year set us free from doubts. You’re walking through Druskininkai in that stripped shirt, everyone’s applauding or saying hello. Whether people have watched the show or not, everyone’s heard of it.
went into that. Selemonas said he could’ve written three normal books in the same period. I’m not afraid to say that this is the best Lithuanian travel guide so far, with songs, recipes, architecture, nature and everything else. It’s very practical too! Take the book, go to Druskininkai, rent a boat and you have a fantastic holiday ahead. What would you recommend seeing from water around Kaunas? Oh, it’s the best area. Maybe not in terms of nature as the lower reaches of Nemunas are spectacular that way, but the views of Kaunas from the water are truly breath-taking. Grodno is similar to Kaunas in this sense, like a brother – both cities are cut in two pieces with an older half and a newer one. Grodno is important to Lithuania’s history as much as Kaunas is, of course, except the Interwar period. As a long-term Vilnius resident, do you have plans to ever move back to Kaunas? We’ve picked a house in Kaunas with my wife; we would like to live there one day. But moving to Kaunas would mean changing my work completely. Once I was asked whether I’d like to be a politician, and I joked about maybe becoming the mayor of Kaunas. However, this was when the city was in big trouble compared to Vilnius. Now Kaunas is flourishing, so thoughts of going back will have to wait.
And how did you find the book by S. Paltanavičius? I loved it. You can see a lot of work
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An impressive voice that you’ve probably heard many times on the radio belongs to Selemonas Paltanavičius, the enthusiastic host of Gamta – visų namai (Nature is home to all), always intriguing and professional about speaking of Lithuanian nature, making listeners sure he’s explored every single corner himself. We met him at the Maironis Lithuanian Literature Museum, where Terra Publica has just published his book Nemunu per Lietuvą (Through Lithuania via Nemunas). We didn’t want to interrupt him with our questions, that’s why we’re including a monologue below. Just a reminder that the book started with Nacionalinė Ekspedicija (National expedition), a thing we’re discussing in another feature of this edition with Edmundas Jakilaitis. Anyway, the book seems so valuable to us that it’s the second month we’re talking about it – you could find it inside the Merkurijus section in May.
The 56th book of Selemonas Paltanavičius Gunars Bakšejevs Photographs from the publication “Nemunu per Lietuvą” (Publisher “Terra Publica”, 2017)
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Photograph by Andrius Lygnugaris
“Some people expected a concrete book yet often those who like to criticise haven’t written a thing themselves. They tell me what I could’ve or should’ve done… I always kindly and sincerely reply that they should write it and share it. The Nemunas river was here before and it’s here now; when others will publish a book on it, the river will be different to the one you’re reading about now. It’s not a report of the expedition, it’s rather a three-part guide to travel via Nemunas. The first section is about the river itself, its origins and meaning. This river basin has all waters of Lithuania rushing in. No one used to travel through it or its tributaries without a proper cause: Merkys, for example, was a route for transporting logs; Nemėžis was used to get military cannons uphill – this mission had all sorts of troubles, of course. Look, right here, pretty close to Grodno, Nemunas connects with Vistula through the Augustów channel, and, before reaching Grodno, Shchara flo-
ws in from the left. There’s another channel at Slonim, connecting the Nemunas river basin with Yaselda, Pripyat and then Dnieper, meaning it reaches the Black Sea! Only 130 years ago thousands of ships were going towards that sea carrying 120 tons of grain and other supplies each. Logs were brought the other way too, 500 km from Belarus to Rusnė. The latter destination was full of sawmills to work the wood, and then the cargo went to Klaipėda, Kaliningrad and further to Europe. One trouble was the wind at the Ventė Cape, which used to throw the expensive wood around. Around 1870s the Kaiser passed a law for the French prisoners to dig a King Wilhelm channel in ten years, and the troubles ended. If such a request would be introduced today, people would think the lawmakers are crazy. Let’s mention the last glacial period. Where did the glacier go? There’s enough time in nature and a thousand years is nothing special.
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Our nature is around 14,000 years old – it’s when the last glacier melted, which interestingly stretched right up to the border of modern Belarus and ended there. Nemunas’ riverhead in the Lida region is at least 100,000 years old, while the one next to Grodno – 13,000. The glacier was named the same as Nemunas because the river formed after the melting period. Those loops around Punia woods, Birštonas and Prienai were spaces pushed by the melting glacier. I touched on the subject of fish and a bit on beasts. People asked me why I didn’t write about birds. Well, they’re gone with a blink of an eye, also there are no actual “Nemunas birds”, but the situation’s different with other animals. There was a now extinct fellow, the woolly rhinoceros, whose skull was found in Nemunas close to Prienai 15 years ago – it’s the only proof of his existence in Lithuania. The expedition takes a lot of space in the book, but the readers will understand that this publication is not just about us. There are three major characters – historian Alfredas Bumblauskas, musicologist Zita Kelmickaitė and me – but a large team is essential here, especially the likes of Edmundas Jakilaitis, who is capable of sparking provocative conversations. Certainly, there was a lot of preparation as it’s a movie – you need to argue and then eventually agree on things. Whereas the text can involve different material, especially in terms of history. It’s important to me that there wouldn’t be a single sentence that’s empty. It’s my 56th book after all, I’ve found my voice. I’m a Sudovian and we’re raised not to waffle. My text editors are quite happy about not having many mistakes to correct. On the other hand, if they need to make the text shorter, it’s pure hell
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for them since every word counts.” Was the decision that you’d be the one to write the book made before setting sail? No! We came back to Pažaislis after the second expedition and we were exhausted – two full weeks of tension! By the way, we’re going through Poland for three weeks this year, I don’t know how we’ll look after that… So, we come back and start talking about a possible book, Edmundas asks: “Why do we have Selemonas on the team?”. There just weren’t more candidates. I worked for the whole winter as a madman, it was a ton of material! I do have a regular job at the ministry, so I was writing the book in the evenings or during my free days. I didn’t torture myself, I worked fast and the publishing team was great too – just look at all the illustrations, facts, footnotes! We tried to cover very different grounds, and this is where the helpful students of A. Bumblauskas came very much in handy. The book says that during the expedition you’ve discussed whether Kaunas is part of Aukštaitija, Sudovia or even Samogitia. What’s your take? Kaunas is Kaunas, and I’m serious here. A. Bumblauskas stressed during the presentation in Vilnius that we shouldn’t separate the regions as this is a thing only 19th century common people would do, and there’s no place for it in modern life. Of course, the professor provoked talks about Samogitia when we were travelling, and I told him that he shouldn’t joke about it to Sudovians – one woman from Zapyškis was absolutely flabbergasted to hear his theory on the borders of these two regions. But all this is a matter of discussion and no one
Photograph by Andrius Lygnugaris
should get offended – the world is changing and we simply must write down how things used to be. Is the book a travel guide and if so, is it a guide for just one trip or the whole summer? It could be a household book, a tool before going on a trip. We would have included more information but the publishers gave us a strict limit. We have so much more that we left out, especially the things we learned last year in Belarus. It’s the real, old Lithuania, with Nesvizh, Novgorod, Grodno; it’s the place where Stephen Báthory died, where kings lived, where Jogaila married… More books on Nemunas would be welcome, this is only the fifth or sixth one if we’re counting from Władysław Syrokomla. In fact, a children’s poet Anzelmas Matutis had travelled through Nemunas from its beginning to end, he wrote about it in Nemuno vingiuose (In the bends of Nemunas), illustrated by photo artist Vytautas Stanionis. I remember a spectacular photo of the poet measuring the depth of Nemunas at the riverhead with a pencil. Miraculous.
Did you notice that the interest in your region is growing? Yes, and God knows what triggered that. I don’t want to brag, but the TV show about our expedition was a 30-episode thing, so many people have watched it. Hundreds then promised to join us next time, therefore maybe we added to that growing interest. And you need to intrigue the masses, make them interested, usually a good leader is fit to do all this. I believe more and more people will fall in love with Nemunas as Lithuania looks different when you’re in that river. We look at the river, thinking we know it, but we need to travel through it, even by stepping on a steamer in Kaunas and getting to Kulautuva. Nemunas is worth it. As E. Jakilaitis said, not giving Nemunas a chance is simply a sin. You need to swim.
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We sat down for a short chat with artist Eugenijus “Varkalis” Varkulevičius (born in 1956) at his studio. Pigeons and water were discussed, with a few touches on painting and New York, where the artist lived from 1994 to 2005. The older generation remembers E. Varkulevičius for his powerful religious canvases. He returned to Kaunas as a changed artist after many years abroad. 2009 saw a big series of his paintings and video installations “Pasroviui” (“Downstream”) being exhibited at Kaunas picture gallery, and large multi-layered abstract improvisations on the subject of water dominated that exhibition. Much like during that period, Varkalis now spends a lot of time walking along the coast of Nemunas. It seems as if both the painter and the river enjoy this relationship.
Water for Varkalis Julija Račiūnaitė Photographs by Dainius Ščiuka
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On pigeons It’s quite a womanly thing to ask why did I keep pigeons and not ducks. I don’t stuff my pillows with their feathers – these birds are holy; it’s how the Holy Spirit is portrayed according to canons. Pigeons are something magical. No one understands how they come back home or to the same exact spot. No wonder people used them to bring messages, that’s why I won’t allow anyone to close down the central post office – it’s the symbol of the homing pigeon. I pay all my taxes at the post office, I even bought these socks there! Seriously, a homing pigeon is like your ring [shows his own ring] – you put a ring on the bird, start the clock and wait for the pigeon to come back from Moscow or any other faraway place. And it does return! But the clock keeps going until the bird enters its pigeonry. A pigeon’s mind is unfathomable for me. I can understand dogs, also cats up to a point, but not these birds, even though I’ve been keeping them since I was eight. It was my escape from idiots at school, and my parents had nothing to do with it. There was this local pigeonry that inspired me along with my friends, one of which is now 80 and he still keeps homing pigeons. They used to live here, in this studio, over 60 of them. The sight of them all flying out into the sky was breath-taking. There are some pigeons that, when it’s not windy, go up so high that you can barely see them – they’re called high-flyers. I once even thought about creating a new breed, but I lacked the patience. There are people encouraging me to start keeping birds again, but this is like raising a kid – who will take care of it when you’re abroad or at war? I only have some eggs left in that corner from those days… By the way, the name of my thesis was “Tadas Ivanauskas” [a known Lithuanian zoologist]. Birds,
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birds… I wanted to write that thesis on Darius and Girėnas, but no one let me, so I stuck with birds. Apart from pigeons, I like goldfinches as I had one before, also titmice, and, of course, finches and swallows because they don’t talk [they imitate voices and even the flying manner of mentioned birds]. However, I’m against feeding bread to them. They should migrate, not just get fat. On water On water! Yes, that’s a great subject – I paint with water. Wait a second, I’ll make the music quieter [Claudio Monteverdi is playing]. I’ll tell you this – 70% of our body is water, so what are we even talking about? Just look at ancient Egypt or other civilisations. Do you know Machu Picchu [sobs]? They ran out of water and that was that. No water – no life. Water is at the core of everything. You see, water gets me places, washes me, clears my head. St John was baptised using water, and that’s why babies are put into it as well. Clouds, we might think, are a whole other matter, but they’re also made from water. Please, sit down. How much water do you drink a day? They say it should be three litres, but sometimes it’s wine. I’ll put the sax away; did I play well? [The saxophone posed for the photos too. Yes, Varkalius played well] You mentioned water. All of my paintings, even the ones in the corners of the ceiling [points upwards to ornaments in the shapes of water ripples], are made from water. Water is tricky. It’s everywhere, inside us and around us. You can’t easily control it. It’s alive and therefore it even gets into my artworks. It’s spectacular [imitates the vitality and magic of water with his hands]. A stone seems solid, but water gets through it because water is life. Why are the folks at NASA looking for water in Mars for years? So much money is
put into that! That’s because water is the condition of life. I’m not a scientist yet I believe that water moved from Mars to here. And here we are! You’ve asked me about the coast of Nemunas – I’ve walked every river path there is in Kaunas, however my favourite route is the trail next to the river, not the concrete path. Concrete comes from the Soviet times, what should I do with it? We can always tear everything down, but there’s fishermen where there is concrete in Kaunas, and you can start nice conversations with fishermen and their fishing rods. Now, the hydropower plant either raises the water level or brings it down; there’s even a village underwater in the lagoon. There are some spots in Nemunas, where, if you’d stop the valves of the plant and wait for the water to sink, you could walk across the whole river. I remember
many small ships in Karmelitai beach when I was a child. Tiny ships. Three drunk people could get into one and go all the way up to Jurbarkas and back. You know it. I’m not saying things were better during Soviet years, however the Kaunas water was much more lively then. There were a lot of stalls for people to keep their boats, motors… If you’re asking about water, it used to be alive then. That’s that. I’ve always observed it and now it’s different. But the culture of Kaunas is much more “torrential”, and it’s going the right way. It was dark and scary here when I came back from New York: my close ones died, then my friends. I wanted to go back. Later, I started feeling patriotic and in love with this land again. I’m not alone. There are those that feel this way too. They understand.
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We live next to a river, and Nemunas has been able to influence how people lived throughout the ages. This is linked to the worldviews of the residents, their relationships with outsiders and their take on change. So how did these circumstances affect the spread of new ideas and the transformation of the local society? The core of my research is the interaction between the community that’s been here since prehistoric rivers and the circumstances the river creates.
The flow of the river as a dimension of cultural history in daily life Mindaugas Bertašius, Kaunas University of Technology, Department of philosophy and psychology Illustration by Inga Navickaitė from “Super Duper”, a book inspired by the Lithuanian mythology
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Nature’s conditions were always good for settling here, so traces of human life spread back to the oldest periods. On the subject of the more famous objects that help us shape a clearer definition of our identity and cultural memory, we’d have to mention necropolises and mounds, some of which are visible others are easy to miss. It’s like a separate river culture, where the flow of the water becomes an artery for communication. The mounds in the Kaunas region are places on the shorelines, on steep slopes, surrounded by ravines and creeks. The necropolises are mostly in the river valleys, and that means that’s where all the people lived: unlike what we have now, the prehistoric community was very close to the deceased, resulting in main decisions being made and main events taking place next to graves of their ancestors, usually accompanied by rituals or gatherings to ensure the choices made will be carried out. Therefore, nature influenced how people reacted to their surroundings in an emotional sense, it was also a tool to convey their beliefs.
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The place for a necropolis was chosen according to cultural rituals and worldviews at the time. We can find at least four prehistoric necropolises – Marvelės, Veršvų, Sargėnų, Eigulių. Like their other neighbours of the region, these necropolises are close to water, in the river valleys. Let’s look more closely at nature’s conditions in these places, while at the same time comparing the situation to the one of Old Town. The Marvelės necropolis was explored the most: it’s situated on the western part of an elevation shaped by sand deposits, where, around the end of 2nd century, a burial ground was created, which then stretched
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for at least 6-7 hectares. This was like a cape stretched west, and the terrace of the river valley got narrower where this elevation started forming. The riverbed had a small loop, resulting in an equal terrace being shaped by sand deposits on the left coast. This open space was surrounded by water from almost three sides, making it attractive for new settlers. The current relief tells us that the Vėžupio creek – which now flows into Nemunas east from the necropolis – could’ve been coming down the steep slope of the pit. We’re bound to think that settling here was a conscious choice, looking into the close interactions with water, the openness of the space and correspondence with the outlook of the people. We can spot a few similarities while looking at Old Town – the oldest part of it is on an elevation shaped by deposits from the valley, surrounded by the confluence of rivers and there even was a small creek on the east side, where Daukšos street is now. Surroundings condition the worldviews in prehistoric communities. Such a society uses repetitive spiritual traditions to consolidate a common outlook and remind residents of the values. This is how the collective memory is established, so various occasions and events typically have a story being told. Mnemonic symbols are essential to that story. Firstly, the natural ones – trees, caves, hills, pits, river valleys, stars and other celestial bodies. Then, parts of the landscape, sacred places, tombs or other structures are incorporated into rituals. Rites or similar gatherings used to take place close to burial grounds, while the city had many buildings of Old Town linked to processions, feasts or wakes.
Graves of ancestors and surrounding farmsteads were a source of trust and assuredness. These were safe and sacred places in the horrific world of forests. The same was true for the middle ages, when the worldviews were shaped by the landscape, the position of the Sun and shadows, the river and its flow (and the changes of it throughout the year). The river carried a message from the east to the west, it was a body of change and contact, a big influencer on harvest matters since it made sure the fields weren’t dry and the soil was fertilised; it was also a way for people to communicate – along the coastline, through water or ice. The river was home to new ideas because they spread through it and to other coastlines first, making residents on shores the first supporters or imitators. It’s hard to trace these prehistoric processes, but many findings hint to similar means of communication. Furthermore, since flowing water was so important, it’s no surprise that the natural evolution of the river became part of human life in terms of the worldviews – the flow, the riverbed, the current, the chance to swim across it, etc. were all components of shaping the outlook. Other components were determined by natural conditions – open landscape and space, the wind and the Sun, dusk and dawn. But these elements were present inside the city too, especially during the early stages of it, when people were getting to know the outer world and they were either accepting or rejecting it. A town of the dark ages was an oasis of safety and assurance. A story, myth or a tale have their own ways of portraying a border between the inner and outer life,
which is represented by a river, a forest, a shore or so on. The cultural and natural elements that surround us create a story about the world, about what’s usual, close and what’s distant, unknown. A community living in such an environment has a better chance of finding the limits of their identity in the world. Maybe we can see a particular trait of Kaunas residents here as no other larger city in Lithuania has such clear and strict borders that are part of an environmental frame. These limits existed for thousands of years, with the fact that Ąžuolynas was seen as an archaic outer world being particularly interesting because of nature’s assimilation into the city’s structure. A wider perspective on the mythical story tells us that more elements could be part of it: a lake, river valley or natural hills, mounds, forested slopes and swampy areas, all expressing a specific, strong position – high/low, deep/shallow, light/dark and so forth. From this angle, the old necropolises of Kaunas are very important as the findings from them tell us about an opposition to such an outlook. A crucial cosmology factor based on perceiving the environment was the Sun. Many researchers have found the angle to bury the deceased interesting, especially keeping in mind the differences between necropolises of the Kaunas region. Men were mostly buried facing west while women faced east. Hundreds of horses are also buried facing west, actually facing the sea side. On one hand, the movement of the Sun probably triggered such burial choices, but, as examining the graves tell us, the directions were chosen according to how the river valley was
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placed: a curious error in facing east or west was probably influenced by the flow of the river, formation of the valley or how the Sun was seen from that position. On the other hand, the specific placement of the necropolises in the landscape is a better explanation why the graves aren’t pointing east or west and tend to be facing more south-east or northwest, because that’s how the whole river valley opens up. A small elevation is facing in the same direction – it was an island at some point, with the main and oldest part of the necropolis placed there. And this was an obvious choice of the community: not only following the movement of the Sun but also evaluating the geographic conditions that stress the importance of an open space. The locations of Marvelės and Veršvų necropolises are important in terms of mythology too: the main water artery of the whole region was here, the current of the river symbolised an eternal flow, the location is also linked to how the Sun moved and how dusk and dawn was seen. This was the spiritual and sacred centre of the community, the main burial ground and ritual area. This was a world-view religion, where people wanted the powers of nature to be kind to them. A specific take on the environment was being formed: the origins of the community and the historic relationship with the surrounding places was highlighted next to essential and meaningful details of nature – sunlight, darkness, winter, summer, thunder, wind and so on. We can also find interactions of semantic elements inside the city,
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and they’re still relevant to modern Kaunas as long as the residents don’t shy away from the rivers and their high, steep coastlines. During the middle ages, usually it was the main walls and gates (both with clear spatial characteristics) that pointed out city limits, while the city itself acted as a separator of two worlds – one of the closed city spaces and one outside the city walls, a world of the powers of nature like wind, rivers and the Sun. However, you don’t need a physical wall to mark the limits of a city. A symbolic wall was typically a river as it was geographically substantial and unique to that region. Finally, the city of the dark ages – with a main square, cathedral and churches marking a safe space – was a sacral centre of the whole community. There are a few theories on why the city formed in this location. It was influenced by the currents of water but also by the perspective of the river valley. Both rivers were quite watery and that was a problem for building various engineering structures, yet the land management system stretched behind the rivers and linked the city residents to those outside territories. Two main axes to compose urban structures were chosen according to topographic conditions. The first axis was a north-south one, it had a Franciscan church of Vytautas with a cemetery nearby planned for mostly guests and merchants, it was also a road from the coastline of Nemunas to the ford of Neris, which was on the way to Samogitia. This could’ve been an important axis, connecting the main public spaces of the city with the harbour, maybe there was even a spot picked for the first town hall
here. The other axis joined the Benedictines (who settled in the west later) with the church of St Jurgis and the cathedral; it then turned into the main road towards Vilnius. The people who lived here were “people of the river”, they linked their existence not only to the water itself but to the elements of the river life – flooding, ice, verdant meadows, spawning of fish, wind for sailing or travelling. The ice used to dissolve the limits that the river formed, making it easy to walk through. The river valley was the base of life. The community expressed itself next to graves of the ancestors, empathised with them and operated around them. This was a community centre for a long time but things probably changed in 14th century because of often attacks – people had to move to the slopes and forests on the hills. However, the growing city of the 15th century lured them to move back in and provided new perspectives of living by the river. A river city became the centre of the community, and yet again it was build according to how the river valley was placed rather than just facing east or west. Public structures were composed of completely new elements but they were built in the same emotional environment of an archetypical outlook. The river was once again of utmost importance. Much like before, water connected the community – the farming properties of city residents were behind the river, on the slopes and hills.
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Whilst thoughts on the new souvenirs of Kaunas are still floating in the air, our focus is to capture the valuable and relevant items that are being created here every month. The coordinates are here to make you go for it instead of just admiring
Merkurijus
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Shot in Skandinaviški interjerai shop
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Mirror “Mudu”,
JotJot is a venture of two professionals who founded the company with a clear desire to rally the outstanding and the ingenious – ideas and designers. And the result of their endeavours is precisely just that. Circulation of quality interior items for the contemporary design solutions. The team just got back from New York where they accepted the NYCxDESIGN 2017 award for Mudu mirror designed by Heima Architects. It’s one of the most important achievements of modern Lithuanian design. Mudu is first and foremost a sculpture deconstructing the myth of a mirror being a flat surface. The new angle of looking at it was definitely noticed by the jury in New York.
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€5324 www.jotjot.com “Skandinaviški interjerai” shop, Savanorių pr. 166
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“IDDO slow living” flower pots,
€85 / €95 www.facebook.com/IDDObaldai “Minimalistas” interior shop, Pilies g. 1 “IDDO slow living” is a Šančiaibased family company of Ieva Dorelaitienė and Darius Dorelaitis. The couple breathe the spirit of Nordic minimalism; the objects they create are meant for everyday rituals and inspired by the harmony of nature. We suggest you pay a visit to the studio or the shop to touch the concrete pots – take a look at a very stylish table grill, too.
Pinhole photography by Inga Dinga and Vadim Šamkov, €150 / €50 www.postgalerija.lt POST gallery, Laisvės al. 51A An exhibition dedicated to pinhole photography as means of expression recently ran at the POST gallery which is one of the most important hubs for contemporary art in Kaunas. Inga Dinga and Vadim Šamkov were among the artists exhibited. Both photographs are parts of series.
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Calendar 05 25 – 06 08
Exhibition: Graduation works of applied graphics students of Vilnius Art Academy Kaunas Faculty
06 01 – 09 03
Exhibition: Beach Season by Kaunas Photo M. Žilinskas art gallery, Nepriklausomybės a. 12
Kaunas Artists‘ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56 05 31 – 06 15
Meno Parkas gallery, Rotušės a. 27
The international festival kicks off its 14th edition with an exhibition presenting works by 11 artists. The theme of the festival this year is “Water”.
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Exhibition: Nature‘s Fool Artist‘s Cool by Povilas Ramanauskas
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Exhibition: “Vytautas Eigirdas (1957–2012). Painting” Kaunas picture gallery, K. Donelaičio g. 16
The name of the exhibition comes from an old Russian saying popular among painters. It helped to open up a lot of new meanings regarding the context of creativity. The exhibition focuses on works talking about painting and the search for its limits.
Dramatic, emotional and expressive world outlook permeates the artist’s paintings and drawings on biblical, mythological or bullfighting topics. Eigirdas is known as a versatile creator, equally skilful in painting and drawing, however he treated himself as painter. Friday, 06 02, 19:00
Pažaislis music festival: Opening concert “Viva l’Opera!”
Pažaislis Monastery, T. Masiulio g. 31
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June and the only one in the city that welcomes all kinds of dogs! Saturday, 06 03, 20:00
Kaunas Student Song Festival Kaunas castle The start of the 22nd annual festival will be marked with a concert by two of the country’s most prestigious musical collectives, the Lithuanian National Symphonic Orchestra and Kaunas State Choir. Friday, 06 02, 19:00
Concert: “Colours of Bubbles” and “Condor Avenue” „Adform Kiemelis“, Rotušės a. 18
Two bands from Lithuania’s growing indie circle will spread some rock’n’roll over the Old Town of Kaunas.
The festival is dedicated to an ancient Lithuanian ritual song about a sycamore tree standing by the road. The symbolic meaning of sycamore is the tree of the world that unites the worlds of the past, the present and the future. Monday, 06 05, 18:00
Theatre “Instrukcija”
Kaunas City Chamber Theatre, Kęstučio g. 74A
Saturday, 06 03, 11:30
Dog show “My house is your house” Kaunas Sports Hall, Perkūno al. 5
This is the second annual dog show
The play is a theatrical laboratory in which documents intertwine with texts by authors, as well as elements of circus, performance art and acting. The play questions morale and stereo-
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Calendar types. 06 05 – 06 06
Open reviews of VMU Theatre student bachelor works VMU Theatre, S. Daukanto g. 27 Kaunas City Chamber Theatre, Kęstučio g. 74A
06 07 – 07 05
06 09 – 06 11
Exhibition: “What’s The Pattern of Your Blouse?” Kaunas City Museum, Town Hall, Rotušės a. 15
32nd International Folklore Festival “Atataria lamzdžiai’2017” Various locations
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You have the chance to become the first spectators of six plays directed by students of Kaunas.
Kids and students (and anyone else feeling young at heart) will gather in the park full of oldschool carousels to listen to the music, play games and have pure outdoor fun.
The exhibition by Ukrainian artist Olesia Kasabova is dedicated to the Year of National Costume in Lithuania. Wednesday, 06 07, 18:00
Event: “Padžiauk sofą’17” Vytautas park, Perkūno al. 4
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The festival is a very important part of the cultural life in Kaunas. It does not only represent the folk traditions of different regions in Lithuania and guests but also features dances, costumes etc.
Friday, 06 09, 19:00
Pažaislis music festival: Johann Strauss on water
Kaunas Yacht Club, R. Kalantos g. 124 The traditional concert of the annual festival attracts hundreds of listeners to the Kaunas Lagoon where the Kaunas city symphonic orchestra performs surrounded by yachts. Saturday, 06 10, 10:00
F2 World Championship
June A new play for kids tells a story about a boy named Povilas who went to boy some bread and took an unexpected turn in a park. He went on to experience a flight with swings and a friendship with a fox. Sunday, 06 11, 09:00
Citadele Kaunas Marathon’2017 Town Hall Square
Kaunas Lagoon
The first leg of the World championship will feature the swiftest water formulas, roaring engines, impressive speed and dangerous turns. It’s the first event of that kind in Kaunas. Saturday, 06 10, 12:00
More than 5000 runners from around the world participated in the biggest event of its kind in Kaunas last year. It does not really matter who will be the fastest this year as the event will be one of the greatest memories from Summer’2017 for sure.
National Kaunas Drama Theatre, Laisvės al. 71
Sunday, 06 11, 12:00
Theatre: “Labas, lape”
Theatre: “Dangaus virėja” Kaunas City Chamber Theatre, Kęstučio g. 74A
The play is dedicated for kids from 1.5 to 3 years of age and tells us stories from many, many years ago that need to be remembered and cherished.
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Calendar Monday, 06 12, 20:30
Concert: “Jesien” and “Golebie”
The summer concerts under the trees in Pažaislis monastery are dedicated to the musical and poetic space and often present acoustic interpretations by well-known musicians.
Some Polish psychodramatic postpunk/noise/jazz and punk/noise/ shoegaze to brighten up your Monday.
Thursday, 06 15, 10:00
“Emma” Social Centre, A. Mickevičiaus g. 35
Tuesday, 06 13, 19:00
Raudondvaris manor, Pilies takas 1, Raudondvaris
VMU Faculty of Political Science and Diplomacy, V. Putvinskio g. 23
The project is aimed at inspiring young journalists to fight corruption and report its cases, also to share their experience and best practice.
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Concert: “Hazmat Modine”
Training: “The Effect of Corruption for Young People in Lithuania”
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Thursday, 06 15, 17:00
One of the most original bands in New York plays a mixture of blues, swing, jazz, klezmer and avant-garde. Wednesday, 06 14, 19:00
Concert: Aistė Smilgevičiūtė and “Skylė” “Monte Pacis” Hospitality Complex, T. Masiulio g. 31
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Book reading: ”Nejaugi tai buvo: straipsniai, pokalbiai, laiškai”
Maironis Museum of Lithuanian Literature , Rotušės a. 13
This is the only book by Regina Rūta Staliliūnaitė, a famous actress, only published after her death a few years ago. It’s a selection of letters, interviews and articles by her and about her. Thursday, 06 15, 18:00
Polish Cinema Club: “Waves” (“Fale”)
Kaunas Cinema Centre “Romuva”, Kęstučio g. 62
Ania is an apprentice at a small hairdressing parlour along with her best friend, Kasia. The two teenage girls from dysfunctional families share a common dream of becoming professional hair stylists. Friday, 06 16, 19:00
Pažaislis music festival: “Carmina Burana” Kaunas State Philharmonic, L. Sapiegos g. 5
“Carmina Burana” is the name given to a manuscript of 254 poems and dramatic texts mostly from the 11th or 12th century, although some are from the 13th century. The pieces are mostly bawdy, irreverent, and satirical. Performed by Kaunas State Choir. Friday, 06 16, 21:00
Concert: “Survive” and “Yomi”
June “Lemmy” club, Girstučio g. 1 Thrash/death metal from Japan and Japanese folk metal from Latvia. Sunday, 06 18, 18:00
Theatre: “Hamletas”
National Kaunas Drama Theatre, Laisvės al. 71
Many directors have recreated the portrait of Hamlet; it seems that every generation has its own answer to the eternal question of being. The newest version has been directed by Vidas Bareikis. 06 19 – 06 22
Cinema Picnic
Kaunas Cinema Centre “Romuva”, Kęstučio g. 62 Tuesday, 06 20, 17:00
Birthday: Ieva Simonaitytė
Maironis Museum of Lithuanian Literature, Rotušės a. 13 The event is dedicated to the writer Ieva Simonaitytė who would turn 120 in 2017.
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Calendar Thursday, 06 22, 21:00
Concert: “Junior A” Kaunas Artists’ House, V. Putvinskio g. 56
any foodie in the world. And, yes, you can taste a lot of different cuisines there. 06 26 – 06 30
Summer Architecture Academy
KTU Faculty of Civil Engineering and Architecture, Studentų g. 48
The hottest face of Lithuanian music at the moment has already been featured on BBC Radio 1. It will be one of his first shows at home, though. Should not be missed!
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The summer school is for pupils that dream of becoming architects. They’ll have the chance to design a house, build its model (both real-life and 3D render), compare building materials and explore the architecture of Kaunas.
Friday, 06 23, 11:00
Friday, 06 30, 18:00
Pažaislis music festival: Faustas Latėnas night Kaunas State Philharmonic, L. Sapiegos g. 5
„Open Kitchen Kaunas“ Nemunas island
A street food festival that happens every Friday is a dream come true for
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Faustas Latėnas has written more than 200 pieces for theatre, TV, cinema, orchestra, choir etc. This will be one of his most intense nights ever!
Friday, 06 30, 19:00
Concert: “Deeper Upper” „Adform Kiemelis“, Rotušės a. 18
June
The band is mixing indie and glitter and they’re doing really well. They should be playing in underground discos of New York but we’re glad they also find time for Kaunas.
More events pilnas.kaunas.lt
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Waded in the middle of a river, stands a man. It seems, that nothing kind of worries him – calmly he stands and, without moving, watches, how the buoy floats how the fog swims. (…)
Laisvės al. 59, third floor, pilnas@kaunas.lt
Editorial office:
Jonas Mekas From the book „Pavieniai žodžiai“, 1967
KAUNAS FULL OF CULTURE Monthly newspaper about personalities and events in Kaunas (free of charge)
Authors: Artūras Bulota, Dainius Ščiuka, Eglė Šertvyčūtė, Inga Navickaitė, Julija Račiūnaitė, Kipras Šumskas, Kotryna Lingienė, Kęstutis Lingys, Mindaugas Bertašius, Tautė Bernotaitė. Patrons:
KAUNO MIESTO SAVIVALDYBĖ
RUN 100010COPIES TIRAŽAS 000 EGZ.
ISSN 2424-4465
Leidžia: Publisher:
2017 2017 Nr. Nr. 62 (22) (18)