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italia

体味意大利

EXPERIENCES

Lady Gaga | 意大利最美丽的广场 | 艺术之旅 | 时尚必备单品 腕上计时精华 | 意大利顶级厨师Carlo Cracco | 伟大的托斯卡纳红葡萄酒


F A L I E R O S A R T I . C O M


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N. 5 | 2020 概述 CONTENTS

32 EDITORIAL 13 纯粹的意大利乐趣 Sheer Italian pleasure

MUST SEE 22 艺术与歌剧 Art and Opera

xx 42 26

INTERVIEW

26 LADY GAGA 永不放弃! Never Give up!

ART & CULTURE

32 SQUARES 一个广场中的世界 The world in a square 42 ITINERARY 特别的访问 Very special sights to see 58 ANNIVERSARY 拉斐尔年 The year of Raphael

FASHION EXPERIENCE 66 只是一条裙子而已 It’s Just a Skirt

xx 58


Boutique Rolex Via dei Condotti, 35

Boutique Hausmann & Co. Via del Babuino, 63

Boutique Patek Philippe Via dei Condotti, 28


N. 5 | 2020 概述 CONTENTS

112 CULT 74 我需要你 I want you 82 活跃男士 Active men 88 腕表情深 I watch you

PHOTOGRAPHY 94 2020 PIRELLI CALENDAR 寻找朱丽叶 Look for Juliet

94

ICON DESIGN 100 生动的语言 Living language

FOOD AND WINE

106 CARLO CRACCO 他选择了米兰作为事业的起点 From the beginnings to Milan 112 伟大的托斯卡纳葡萄酒 Great Tuscan wines 118

HOTEL PARTNERS

CITY GUIDE 120 时尚之路 Shopping for fashion

106


优秀的意大利生活方式 THE EXCELLENCE OF ITALIAN LIFESTYLE

半年刊

HALF-YEARLY

主编 editor in chief

Matteo Parigi Bini

时尚指导 fashion director

Marta Innocenti Ciulli

编辑管理 managing editors

Teresa Favi, Francesca Lombardi

编辑 editors

Sabrina Bozzoni, Matteo Grazzini, Virginia Mammoli, Mila Montagni

摄影 photographers

Lorenzo Cotrozzi, Dario Garofalo, Alessandro Moggi, Luca Moggi, Marco Mori, Ottavia Poli, New Press Photo, Niccolò Rastrelli, Valentina Stefanelli cover:Yorik Tortato

C

M

Y

艺术编辑 art editors

Martina Alessi, Melania Branca

翻译 translations

CM

MY

CY

Centroservizi Traduzioni

CMY

广告和宣传指导

K

advertising and marketing director

Alex Vittorio Lana

广告 advertising

Gianni Consorti, Alessandra Nardelli, Monica Offidani

编辑室 editorial office

via Piero della Francesca, 2 - 59100 Prato - Italy ph +39.0574.730203 fax +39.0574.730204 - redazione@gruppoeditoriale.com

发行人 publisher

Gruppo Editoriale

Alex Vittorio Lana & Matteo Parigi Bini via Piero della Francesca, 2 - 59100 Prato - Italy ph +39.0574.730203 - fax +39.0574.730204 www.gruppoeditoriale.com Gruppo Editoriale

出版社 press

Baroni & Gori - Prato Paper: Symbol Freelife Questo periodico è associato alla Unione Stampa Periodica Italiana

copyright © Gruppo Editoriale srl


MaloCashmere


EDITORIAL

纯粹的意大利乐趣 Sheer Italian pleasure 春天是一年中出游意大利的最佳季节。每年的这个时节,春 暖花开,绿意盎然,艺术之城充满惬意、轻松气氛,本刊的 文章将引导你用最佳形式体 验意大利的优雅和风格。 你将发现意大利最美丽广 场的魅力,探索许多游客不 太熟悉的地方,比如威尼 斯的孔塔里尼-德尔-博沃洛 宫或佛罗伦萨的斯蒂伯特博 物馆。或者参观米兰达芬奇 的«最后的晚餐»,在罗马帝 国论坛附近清闲散步。你 可以聆听意大利顶级厨师卡 罗-克拉科讲述的故事,以 及托斯卡纳的无价之宝红葡 萄酒。无论是在旅途、景点 或风格故事中,故事的主角 绝对喜欢为自己留下享受的 时间。 One of the best times of year to visit Italy is spring, when mild, warm weather and a quieter, more relaxed atmosphere add to the charm of the art cities and enhance the splendour of the examples of Italian elegance and style at its very best that you will find as you browse this issue. You will discover the seduction of Italy’s most beautiful squares, but also places unknown to mass tourism, such as Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo in Venice, or the Stibbert Museum in Florence. You will see Leonardo’s Last Supper in Milan, and stroll through the Imperial Forum in Rome. You will learn about famed Italian chef, Carlo Cracco, and the value of Tuscany’s great red wines. Itineraries, places and stories of style, where the real protagonist is the sheer pleasure of time for yourself.

15


CHAUMET JOSÉPHINE AIGRETTE SP Florence Made in Tuscany.indd 1

17/12/19 12:4


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Pandora Credenza Pandora, realizzata in palissandro indiano, rivestiva in pergamena con dettagli in bronzo.


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MUST SEE

艺术与歌剧 Art and Opera 重要艺术展览和精彩歌剧上演:在意大利不可错过的日期

罗马

位欣赏伟大的艾未未指导演出的普契尼的歌剧图兰朵 (Turandot),艾未未同时也担任场景和服装的设计。

城市的过去和今天:拉斐尔 (Raffaello) 的部分作品将 于3月5日至6月2日在罗马的奎琳娜艺廊 (Scuderie del Quirinale) 展出。 这是纪念拉斐尔·桑齐奥 (Raffaello Sanzio)逝世 500周年的大型专题展览,包括绘画、素 描和艺术等以拉斐尔为主题的200多件作品。 同时还 收集了100多件由拉斐尔本人制作的绘画和素描作品。 到4月13日为止,21世纪国家艺术博物馆 (MAXXI),将 举行乔庞蒂 (Gio Ponti) 逝世40周年纪念展,他不仅是 伟大的建筑师,而且还是设计师、艺术指导、作家、 诗人和评论家。 对于爱好歌剧的朋友,请别忘记在 3月25日至4月5日期间在科斯坦兹 (Costanzi) 剧院订

佛罗伦萨 阿根廷设计师托马斯·萨雷斯诺(Tomàs Saraceno) 对斯 特罗兹宫 (Palazzo Strozzi) 的空间的重新规划 (7月19日 完工) 将让您感觉时代的变迁。该展览将通过文艺复兴 与现代艺术之间的对话,探讨原始而深刻的主题:人 是世界的中心还是宇宙的一部分?并对人与宇宙的和 谐的不懈地追求。乌菲兹美术馆 (Uffizi) 将向朱塞佩· 贝佐利 (Giuseppe Bezzuoli) 敬礼,这里将于4月2日至 7月31日期间举办浪漫主义(又称新古典主义)潮流的 主要代表人物贝佐利 (Bezzuoli) 艺术作品展,并可以

ROME Ancient and modern in the Eternal City, starting with the Raphael exhibition at the Scuderie del Quirinale from 5 March to 2 June. This vast monographic show includes more than 200 masterpieces, including paintings, sketches and comparison works - and pays homage to the great Renaissance artist Raffaello Sanzio da Urbino on the 500th anniversary of his death. The exhibition brings together an astonishing corpus of over 100 works by Raphael himself. Meanwhile, at the MAXXI until 13 April is Gio Ponti. Loving Architecture, a major retrospective marking 40 years since the death of a man who was not only an

architect but also a designer, art director, writer, poet and critic. Opera lovers should book their seats at Teatro Costanzi from 25 March to 5 April for Puccini’s Turandot in an extraordinary production by the great Ai Weiwei, who also designs the scenery and costumes. FLORENCE Reality is remodelled by the installations of Argentinian artist Tomàs Saraceno, who has redesigned the spaces of Palazzo Strozzi for the occasion (until 19 July). The exhibition establishes a profound and original dialogue between the Renaissance and contemporary art: from man at the centre of the world 22


Above: Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, Florence Below: TomĂ s Saraceno at Palazzo Strozzi, Florence


MUST SEE

对同期的弗朗切斯科·海耶兹 (Francesco Hayez) 、马 西姆 达兹里奥 (Massimo D'Azeglio) 、英格瑞斯 (Ingres) 和托马斯劳伦斯 (Thomas Lawrence) 的作品进行比较。 佛罗伦萨作曲家路易吉·基鲁比尼 (Luigi Cherubini) 为威尼斯创作的一部诙谐剧《三女之夫的单身汉》 Lo sposo di tre, e marito di nessuna 将于4月23日在佛罗伦萨 菲奥伦蒂诺歌剧院举行的传统的五月歌剧节的开幕式 上演出。到5月6日为止一共有四场演出。随后, 5月10 日至20日期间将上演由朱冰梅塔 (Zubin Mehta) 执导的 威尔第 (Verdi) 的歌剧《奥赛罗》 (l’Otello)

(Georges de La Tour) 作品展。评论家们通常将其作品 的风格和技巧与卡拉瓦乔 (Caravaggio) 相提并论。 从3月27日至8月8日,二十世纪博物馆 (Museo del Novecento) 将举办卡拉·阿卡迪 (Carla Accardi) 作 品展。这是在阿卡迪女士 2014年去世后的第一次专题

到 6月 7 日 为 止 , 米 兰 王 宫 将 举 办 乔 治 - 德 - 拉 图 尔

作品展,她的作品主要以通过特殊绘画技巧表现抽象 几何图形的寓意而闻名。5月16日至6月6日期间,由迭 戈·法索里斯 (Diego Fasolis) 执导的莫扎特的歌剧《 伊多梅尼欧》 (Idomeneo) 将在拉斯卡拉剧院 (La Scala Theatre) 上演。随后,在6月18日至7月7日期间,将上 演米歇尔·马里奥蒂 (Michele Mariotti) 执导的威尔第 的歌剧《强盗》 (i Masnadieri)。

to man as part of a universe seeking a new harmony. The Uffizi hosts a tribute to Giuseppe Bezzuoli: from 2 April to 31 July, a monographic exhibition presents an opportunity to compare the work of Bezzuoli a leading exponent of the Romantic movement and teacher of Giovanni Fattori, among others - with the output of artists of the calibre of Francesco Hayez, Massimo d’Azeglio, Ingres and Thomas Lawrence. Betrothed of Three and Husband of None is the only opera buffa composed by Florence-born Luigi Cherubini for Venice. And this is the title that will open the traditional Maggio Musicale Fiorentino festival on 23 April at the Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fioren-

tino. There will be four performances, finishing on 6 May. Another big title on the programme is Verdi’s Otello, conducted by Zubin Mehta and on stage from 10 to 20 May. MILAN Until 7 June, Georges de La Tour will be the focus of a major exhibition at the Palazzo Reale, an exploration of his works and his singular style, which is often compared to Caravaggio. From 27 March to 8 August, the Museo del Novecento is the venue for a major retrospective of the work of Carla Accardi, the first since her death in 2014, which explores the artist’s work on the borders

米兰

24


MUST SEE

9月2日至20日期间将上演威尔第的歌剧《弄臣》 (il momento di Rigoletto)。10月18日至11月2日期间,始终

到3月1日止,威尼斯公爵宫 (Palazzo Ducale) 将展示安 特卫普及其他佛兰德派 (fiamminghe:) 的收藏品。壮观 的公寓将被改造成“ constkamers”,在不同的房间里 摆放着具有代表性的佛兰德派的精美艺术品, 包括提 香 (Titian) 、彼得·保罗·鲁本斯 (Rubens) 、安东 尼·范·戴克 (Anthony van Dyck) 和米歇尔·斯威特 斯 (Michiel Sweerts) 等艺术家的杰作。

5月16日至10月25日期间,在佩萨罗宫 (Ca'Pesaro) 将展 出黄金时代派法布里奇奥-普来西 (Fabrizio Plessi) 的 代表作品。歌剧方面主要有:在4月30日至5月9日期间 在马里布兰剧院 (Teatro Malibran) 上演的由迭戈·法 索里斯 (Diego Fasolis)执导的歌剧法纳斯 (Farnace), 这部歌剧是安东尼奥·维瓦尔第 (Antonio Vivaldi) 事业 成功的代表作。紧随其后,从6月19日至7月3日,将上 演海恩德尔 (Haendel) 的歌剧《里纳尔多》 (Rinaldo), 由皮尔·路易吉·皮兹 (Pier Luigi Pizzi) 执导。 之后 从9月9日至10月13日将上演威尔第的歌剧《游唱诗人》 (Il Trovatore)。10月3日至27日期间将上演罗西尼的歌剧 《塞维利亚理发师》 (il Barbiere di Siviglia)。

between geometric abstraction and pictorial gesture. From 16 May to 6 June, Teatro La Scala stages Mozart’s opera Idomeneo conducted by Diego Fasolis, and from 18 June to 7 July Verdi’s I Masnadieri, conducted by Michele Mariotti. Still at the Scala, 2 to 20 September will see Verdi’s Rigoletto, followed by Handel’s Giulio Cesare in Egitto, on the programme from 18 October to 2 November. VENICE From Titian to Rubens. Masterpieces from Antwerp and other Flemish Collections: until 1 March the magnificent rooms of the Doge’s Palace will be transformed into veritable cabinets of curiosities, packed with

fabulous artworks that encapsulate the luxuriance of Flemish collections. The exhibition features masterpieces by artists such as Titian, Peter Paul Rubens, Anthony van Dyck and Michiel Sweerts. Fabrizio Plessi. The Golden Age is on display at Ca’ Pesaro from 16 May to 25 October. For opera lovers, the work that brought Antonio Vivaldi his greatest success in life, Farnace, is conducted by Diego Fasolis from 30 April to 9 May. Teatro La Fenice follows this, from 19 June to 3 July, with Handel’s great work Rinaldo, directed by Pier Luigi Pizzi. Then there’s Verdi’s Il Trovatore from 9 September to 13 October, and Rossini’s The Barber of Seville from 3 to 27 October.

在拉斯卡拉剧院,将上演海恩德尔的歌剧《凯撒大帝 在埃及》 (Giulio Cesare in Egitto)。

威尼斯

25


MOVIE INTERVIEW

永不放弃! Never Give up! Lady Gaga,威尼斯,第一次作为演员,与布拉德利·库珀 (Bradley Cooper) 合作

Lady Gaga, Venice, her first time as an actress, the chemistry with Bradley Cooper TEXT

Giovanni Bogani

26


MOVIE INTERVIEW

Lady Gaga (New York, 1986), American singer-songwriter, one of the best-selling music artists in history, and actress by her perfommance in 2018 movie ‘A star is borne’ (ph. Carolyn Cole) 27


MOVIE INTERVIEW

‘A star Is born’ movie made its debut at the Venice Film Festival on September 2019. Marking Bradley Cooper’s directorial debut and Lady Gaga’s first meaty film role


MOVIE INTERVIEW

在威尼斯,去年9月,他们是电影节上最引人注目的组合,给大家带来了最大的惊 喜:布拉德利·库珀证明了他会唱歌, Lady Gaga证明了她会演戏,演绎一个角色, 知道如何只通过一个眼神、嘴唇的一个撇动 、一句台词就能感动观众,这部电影就 是 - 全世界都知道 - 一个明星的诞生。 从威尼斯丽都岛开始,又走到奥斯卡, 这部电影获得了八项奥斯卡提名,其中影片的插曲《Shallow》赢得了最佳原创歌曲 奖,票房达到4.32亿美元。 这部由一位歌手主演的电影取得了电影史上最高的票房 之一。这位歌手就是她,Lady Gaga。 她的父亲原是西西里人 - 他的祖父从墨西拿省的纳索市移居到西西里 - 是20世纪 初到达美国的百万意大利人之一;妈妈是法国/加拿大裔。然后就有了她,她的本 名是Stefani Joanne Angelina Germanotta。 显然,她应该给自己取个艺名。 去年9 月,Lady Gaga来到威尼斯,乘坐着快艇,一身好莱坞风情装扮,铂金色的头发,是 玛丽莲梦露在“七年之痒”中的造型,身着一条奶白色的摆裙。保持了她一贯的迷 人、性感、浓烈的人物形象。 然而在电影中,她却是完全素颜。 成为演员是你一个多年的愿望吗? 我一直都想当演员。 但是,和所有事一样,总是需要有人相信你能做到才行,因为 什么事都可能发生。 这个人是布拉德利。 在电影中她被告知“你的声音很美,但是长得不漂亮”。 你有没有 听过类似的话,在青春期? 当然听过!当我进入一个房间时,我从来都不是最漂亮的。 制作人要我写我的音 乐,但让更可爱的同行来演唱;但是我决定不放弃。 我一直都有很强的性格,我一 They were the true revelation of the film festival in Venice, last September. Bradley Cooper proved he could sing, Lady Gaga proved she could act, play a character, move the audience with more than words, with a glance, a puckering of the lips. The film -as the whole world knows- was A Star is Born. The awards season began in Venice, at the Lido, to roll full steam towards the eight Academy Award nominations, the Oscar statuette won for Best Original Song, Shallow, and a total of 432 million dollars. A Star is Born is the highest-grossing film starring a singer of all time. And the singer is Lady Gaga. A father of Sicilian origin- her grandfather emigrated from Naso, near Messina, one of the millions of Italians who left their homeland to settle in America in the early 1900s- a mother of French-Canadian origin. As a result: Stefani Joanne Angelina Germanotta. She obviously needed a pseudonym. Lady Gaga showed up in Venice, last September, on a motorboat, in perfect Hollywood style, sporting platinum blonde hair, like Marilyn in The Seven Year Itch, and a cream-colored flounced skirt. A look in keeping with her glamourous and sexy image. Instead, in the film, not a stitch of makeup on her face. “It was difficult”, she says.” Is being an actress a wish you’ve been harboring for a long time? I’ve always wanted to be an actress. But as with all things, you always need someone who believes in you to make them happen. This “someone” was Bradley. In the film you are told: “You have a magnificent voice, but you’re not good looking”. Has anyone said this to you in real life, during your teens? Yes indeed! I’ve never been the belle of the ball. Producers wanted me to write the music and have it sung by better looking singers, but I never gave up. I’ve 29


MOVIE INTERVIEW

直都想按照自己的想法来做事。 然后一切都变得容易些了... 让我的事业进行得更顺利的是因为我自己来写音乐。 因此,我就不必只靠祈祷能得 到好歌,也不需要别人帮我写歌。 我一个人就可以做所有工作。 表演对你意味着什么? 它使我摆脱了许多恐惧。当我的角色在谈论她的心情有多糟时,那一刻也是我的真 实感受。我很不自信。如果后来我变得更坚定了,那都是归功于布拉德利。我们从 一开始就感觉很亲切:我们共同的意大利血统将我们拉得更近。我们第一次见面 时,我为他煮了意大利面,还为他准备了肉丸! 我们默契的配合也得益于这样的小 事情。 你们的默契是如何发展起来的? 我看到他的第一眼,我就想“我认识你啊,而且已经认识你一辈子这么久了!”。 这是一种瞬间的直觉上的相互理解。 然后我们之间还达成了一种协议:他相信我可 以成为一名演员,我相信他可以成为一名歌手。在拍摄过程中及之后,都是在这样 互相信任中进行的。 我在第一次看电影时,感动地都哭了。直到看过好几次之后, 才能作为一个“正常”观众来看这个电影……”。 你们在电影中唱的歌曲是现场演唱的吗? 是的,因为如果我们想要诚实真实的表演,就必须这样做。 我们必须现场演唱。布 拉德利对我说:“什么?” 但是我坚持要这么做:我看不了那种电影里演的是歌手 在唱歌,但你意识到这一切都是在播放已经录好的音乐,而歌手只是在假唱而已。 always had a strong temperament that prompted me to do things my way. Then everything became a bit easier… What made things easier is that I wrote my own music. So I didn’t have to beg for songs or someone to write them for me. I did everything by myself. What does acting mean to you? It freed me from many fears. When my character in the film says how ugly she feels, well, I am myself in that moment. I am so insecure. If I ever felt selfconfident, I owe it to Bradley. Bradley and I felt close from the very beginning: we share Italian origins. The first time we met, I cooked spaghetti and meatballs for him! We built our relationship also on small things like this. How did you build the chemistry with each other? The instant I saw him, I thought: “I’ve known you my whole life!”. The understanding between us was immediate, spontaneous. Then we made a sort of deal: he would have believed in me as an actress, and I would have believed in him as a musician. And that’s exactly what happened, during the shooting and afterwards. The first time I watched the film, I was moved to tears. It took me several viewings to finally be able to watch the film as a “normal” viewer…” Were the songs you sing in the film performed live on the set? Yes, because if we wanted a real, honest performance, that was the only way to do it. We had to sing live. Bradley said: “Are you kidding?”, but I insisted. I can’t stand watching films with someone lip-synching and just pretending to sing. 30


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Above: Lady Gaga accepts the Music (Original Song) award for ‘Shallow’ from ‘A Star Is Born’ onstage during the 91st Annual Academy Awards at Dolby Theatre on February 24, 2019 in Hollywood. Below: the singer and actress in Venice 31


Piazza San Marco, Venice 32


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一个广场中的世界 The world in a square 社会的象征性地标,世纪艺术的珍贵宝藏 A place emblematic of society and a centuries-old treasure chest of art TEXT

Mila Montagni

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Piazza del Duomo, Milan 34


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第一次来到意大利城市的人都知道,要想了解一个城市, 最好先到这个城市最重要的几个广场去看看。 因为自中世 纪以来,每个城市就是在这样一个“自由”的空间里(通 常被具有政治性质的建筑物所包围)发展起来的。 在这里 会做出政府的决议,开办市场,举行宗教仪式……因此, 要想居住在一个城市里,最好先去看看它的广场并了解 她。 罗马-圣彼得广场 圣彼得广场,世界天主教的中心,早在350多年前,即自建 筑师吉安·洛伦佐·贝尼尼确定其结构以来,就是如今的 造型。就像在这座永恒之城经常发生的一些惯例那样,今 天大教堂和广场的所在地,在罗马最早的皇帝时代里,曾 是尼禄竞技场,长超过半公里,它是第一个纪念圣彼得的 教堂,建于四世纪中叶;其周围曾环绕着很多房屋和建筑 物,以及挤满了商店的小街巷,但之 后被全部拆除,自1930年以来,形成 了宏伟的协和大道。教堂独一无二的 柱廊建于1667年,形状似乎是要拥抱 着那些来教堂的人。那些会耐心寻找 在方尖碑附近的一块特殊的地砖并停

基督教世界的 中心-圣彼得 广场

St. Peter’s Anyone finding themselves in an Italian town for the first time knows that to get to Square is the know it, a good idea is to start from its most centre of the important square. Because it is in this “free” space – usually surrounded by buildings of Christendom political importance – that the town has developed since the Middle Ages. Here municipal decisions were made, markets held and religious ceremonies carried out … and so to really experience a town it would be well to find its most significant square and explore it. ROME - ST. PETER’S SQUARE The present shape of St. Peter’s Square, the centre of the Christendom, was defined over 350 years ago, when the architect Gian Lorenzo Bernini laid out its definitive structure. As often occurs in the Eternal City, where the Basilica and the square are now situated, in the years of the first Roman emperors it was the site of the over half a kilometre-long Circus of Nero, and the first church dedicated to St. Peter was built in the mid-4th century. Clustered all around were numerous houses and buildings and narrow streets crowed with shops, which were demolished beginning in 1930 to make way for the imposing Via della Conciliazione. The original colonnade of St. Peter’s, which seems to embrace those who arrive, was concluded in 1667. 35


Piazza della Signoria, Florence


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下观察的人会有难以置信的发现:四列圆柱会“合并”成 为一个圆柱!方尖碑本身也有一个神奇的历史:它是在卡 利古拉皇帝的旨意下从赫利奥波利斯(埃及)运来的,为 了保持其完整性,在运输它的船只上装满了兵豆。 威尼斯-圣马可广场 她被誉为“世界最美丽的客厅”,而这一声誉并没有夸 大,圣马克广场的魅力可以追溯到826年,当圣人的遗骸到 达城市,威尼斯人在总督府(曾是一座由塔楼和围墙组成 的城堡,由一条运河环绕)的旁边建造了一座大教堂,用 来存放它们。 但976年发生的一场可怕的大火摧毁了这一切,而随后进行 的修建工作使其展现出如今的辉煌。 自 1264年 以 来 , 该 广 场 就 一 直 以 其 人 字 形 砖 砌 路 面 为 特 色。来游览这座泻湖城市的人们还会注意到,这座纪念圣 马可的广场是唯一一个建在小街道和小广场之间的大广 场,这些小街道和小广场又和一些大型建筑 物和面向运河的密集的住宅交织在一起。广 场的两根花岗岩高柱直望圣乔治岛,它们伫 立在这里已经将近一千年,高柱上分别有威 尼斯共和国的飞狮象征和其第一个保护神圣

重返公元826 年,回忆圣马 可广场的风姿

The charm of St. Mark’s Square dates back to 826

Those with the patience to find the tile near the Obelisk and stop on it, will make an incredible discovery – the four rows of columns “blend together”! and become one! The same obelisk has a curious history – it was brought from Heliopolis (in Egypt) by the Emperor Caligula, and to protect it from damage, was transported on a ship loaded with lentils. VENICE - ST. MARK’S SQUARE Its fame as “the world’s most beautiful drawing room” is no exaggeration, but the charm of St. Mark’s Square dates back to 826, when the Saint’s remains were brought to the city and a church built to house them next to the Doge’s Palace, which was a castle with towers and stout walls surrounded by a canal. It was destroyed by a terrible fire in 976, and subsequent buildings were the start of the marvel that is it today, with the herringbone brick paving that has been a feature of the Square since 1264. Anyone visiting the city will notice that St. Mark’s is the only square among the winding calli and campielli with their great palazzos and densely-packed houses overlooking the canals. The Square’s two tall granite columns looking towards St. George’s island, one bearing a winged lion (symbol of the Venetian Republic), and the other, St. Theodore, its patron saint, have stood here for almost a thousand years. The space between the two columns 38


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特奥多罗的雕像;两个高柱之间的空间曾是处决犯人的地 点,死刑犯的尸体会被倒挂在这里。但是今天,这里是一 个具有政治和宗教色彩的地点,是面具狂欢节的聚集地, 新年时在广场上接吻意味着在爱情故事上加盖封印。 米兰-大教堂广场 七百年以来一直主导着大教堂广场的是宏伟的哥特式大教 堂,而广场的中央则是意大利第一位国王的骑马纪念碑。 在较长的两侧,是对称的南拱廊(有阿仁伽里奥宫的塔 楼)和北拱廊(维托里奥·埃马努埃莱二世走廊的入口, 它是这座大都市的象征,参观者和游客的聚集地)。大教 堂广场呈矩形,占地面积为17000平方米,但建筑物所包 含的面积则是其两倍多,当第二次世界大战期间在广场下 方建造了防空洞时,卡米纳蒂宫前面的花坛中还曾经种植 了小麦。几个世纪以来,广场经历了许多变化,例如将剥 皮的圣巴塞洛缪的雕像移到大教堂 内,因为其身体解剖的真实感似乎会 吓 到 孩 子 , 以 及 自 1810年 以 来 , 出 现在教堂大露台上的与纽约自由岛上 的自由女神像相同的(以前的)的雕 塑。

重返公元826 年,回忆圣马 可广场的风姿

was the site of public executions, and the Don’t miss the bodies of those condemned were hung there upside down. Nowadays, however, this once Gothic cathedral political and religious space is the favourite of Milan place for Carnival, and it’s said kissing in the Square on New Year’s Eve puts the seal on a romance. MILAN - PIAZZA DEL DUOMO The grandiose, Gothic cathedral has towered over Piazza del Duomo for seven hundred years, while an equestrian statue of the first King of Italy stands in the centre of the square. Facing each other across the Square are the Palazzo dei Portici Meridionali (with the Arengario towers (and the Palazzo dei Portici Settentrionali (with the entrance to Vittorio Emanuele II Gallery, one of the city’s emblems and a destination for visitors and tourists). The rectangular surface of Piazza del Duomo alone is around 17 thousand square metres, but the area enclosed by buildings is almost twice that, so that during WWII, an air raid shelter was built under the square, and the flowerbeds in front of Palazzo Carminati were planted with wheat. The square has undergone many changes over the years, such as when the statue of St. Bartholomew Flayed was moved inside the Cathedral because it seems the anatomical accuracy of the martyred body frightened children, 39


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佛罗伦萨- 领主广场 距世界最重要的艺术场馆之一乌菲兹美术馆仅一步之遥, 有一个于十三世纪就存在并分有很多层次的露天博物馆。 旧宫(著名的电影拍摄取景地,比如根据丹·布朗小说拍 摄的电影《地狱》)屹立在领主广场上,今天这里仍是城 市活跃的政治中心,它的砌琢石墙面,前面的大卫雕像( 米开朗基罗原作的复印品,真品现展放在学院美术馆中) 和Marzocco雕像 - 是一头象征着在中世纪统治佛罗伦萨的 人民权力的狮子,由多纳泰罗用细粒灰色砂岩雕刻的真品 现保存在巴杰罗美术馆中。在这里,还可以欣赏到巴尔托 罗梅奥·阿曼纳蒂雄壮的海神喷泉、托斯卡纳第一位骄傲 的大公爵科西莫一世的骑马雕像以及展放有很多著名雕塑 的敞厅:奥卡尼亚凉廊(佣兵凉廊)。 在这个凉廊中有切里尼精美的珀耳修斯像,在它的柱座 上,性情暴躁的作者在还放置了自己的肖 像,但很难被发现……还有让人好奇的在旧 宫外墙下部发现的粗糙的雕刻:传说是米开 朗基罗之作,刻画了一个每天都用他毫无意 义的聊天打扰艺术家的人! Piazza della

佛罗伦萨露天博 物馆-领主广场

Signoria in Florence is an open-air museum

and the presence, since 1810, on the balcony of the church of a sculpture identical to (and predating) New York’s Statue of Liberty. FLORENCE - PIAZZA DELLA SIGNORIA Just a short way from the Uffizi, one of the world’s greatest art galleries, is an open-air museum that has existed and stratified since the 12th century. Palazzo Vecchio, with its ashlar facade, (the awesome set of films such as Inferno, based on Dan Brown’s novel) towers over Piazza della Signoria, still the heart of city government today, with its David (a copy of Michelangelo’s original, now in the Galleria dell’Accademia) and the statue of the Marzocco, the lion symbolizing the popular power that administered Florence in the Middle Ages, the sandstone original carved by Donatello being preserved in the Bargello Museum. Here one can admire Bartolomeo Ammannati’s majestic Neptune fountain, as well as the equestrian statue of the first proud Grand Duke of Tuscany, Cosimo I, and the architectural marvel that is the Loggia dell’Orcagna (or Loggia dei Lanzi). Inside the loggia is Cellini’s wonderful Perseus, on the back of which the irascible artist placed a very hard to find self-portrait. Also very curious is the graffiti found low down on the façade of Palazzo Vecchio -legend says it was done by Michelangelo, and portrays a man who bothered the artist every day with his senseless chatter! 40


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Piazza di Spagna, Rome 41


ART ITINERARY

特别的访问 Very special sights to see

人生在世必须一睹的独一无二的艺术收藏品、宇宙级的杰作和考古遗址。 Unparalleled art collections, world-renowned masterpieces, archaeological sites to see at least once in a lifetime TEXT

Teresa Favi

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The Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci, Milan (ph. Niccolò Rastrelli) 43


ART ITINERARY

Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan. The church contains the painting of The Last Supper by da Vinci, which is in the refectory of the convent 44


ART ITINERARY

意大利拥有很多世界上独一无二的艺术遗产, 无论从数量和 时代及风格的多样性方面都数一数二。意大利是每年全球最 受欢迎的度假胜地之一。 这里是罗马帝国的摇篮和文艺复 兴的中心,这两个时期的文化在这块土地上留下了深深的烙 印 。意大利的每个角落都散发着久远历史的气息。意大利 和中国一起,是申报世界级遗产遗址数量最多的国家。2019 年总共有1052项世界级遗产申报,其中有55项来自意大利。 在意大利除了上千的游览项目,还有宜人的地中海气候和 各地不同的特色美食,选择如此之多,让人样样难舍难弃。 我们“体味意大利”杂志 (Italia Experiences) 建议您对威尼 斯、罗马、米兰和佛罗伦萨等主要艺术城市进行特别的访问。

米兰 - 最后的晚餐

这是有史以来所有的以最后的晚餐为题材的绘 画中最著名的一副。最后的晚餐,也称为《切 那可》,由莱昂纳多-达-芬奇 于1495年到97年间 受米兰 市大公爵卢多维科-伊尔(Leonardo da Vinci)

莫罗 (Ludovico il Moro) 委托在米兰 多米尼加修道院的食堂内绘制。

莱昂纳多(Leonardo) 于1495年至1498年间绘 制了《最后的晚餐》

Endowed with an artistic heritage that is Leonardo worked on second to none for its quantity and variety of periods and styles, Italy is annually The Last Supper from among the most popular holiday destinaabout 1495 to 1498 tions. Cradle of the Roman Empire and birthplace of the Renaissance - two cultures that have left tangible evidence of their passage in the country’s cities - every corner is steeped in centuries of history. Just consider that with no fewer than 55 out of the 1052 listed as of 2019, Italy takes the crown as the country with the most UNESCO World Heritage sites in the world, alongside China. Between stunningly beautiful sights, the agreeable Mediterranean climate and local cuisine, delicious in all its regional variations, Italy has so much to offer that it can be hard to choose. We at Italian Experience recommend a special place to visit in each of Italy’s great art cities, from Venice to Rome, Milan and Florence. MILAN - THE LAST SUPPER It is the most famous “Last Supper” of all time. Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper, frescoed between 1495-97 on commission by the Lord of Milan Ludovico il Moro in the refectory of the Dominican monastery of Basilica of Santa Maria delle Grazie, was immediately hailed by Leonardo’s contemporaries as the cornerstone of Renais45


A panoramic view of the Imperial Forums in Rome (ph. Valentina Stefanelli)


ART ITINERARY

A detail of the Imperial Forums in Rome aaa (ph. Valentina Stefanelli) 48


ART ITINERARY

该壁画立即被称为中世纪文艺复兴时期艺术文化的 里程碑。对壁画技术不欣赏的莱昂纳多选择了与面 板画相似的技术在食堂的墙壁上绘画,特别体现了 他对灯光效果的研究。这副壁画看上去更像是明亮 的图片作品,只在细节上略有差别。 仔细观察,壁画所描绘的人物并不具有宗教人物的 刚硬性,却像真实人物一样表情和动作都栩栩如生。 但是,正是这种绘画技术与过于潮湿的环境和离厨房太近毫不 兼容,让专家和修复人员在1999年完成的最后一次历史性的 修复工作中大伤脑筋。“最后的晚餐”位于玛丽亚·德尔·格 拉齐 (Maria delle Grazie) 教堂中,与布拉曼特穹顶 (Cupola del Bramante) 处于同一优雅地带,是一座宏伟的回廊式建筑和礼 拜场所,被卢多维科-伊尔-莫罗 (Ludovico il Moro) 选定为其家 族的墓地。

威尼斯-孔塔里尼宫 (蜗牛府) 在圣马可区的坎波·马宁 (Campo Manin) 街角和运河迷宫中,隐藏一件 无与伦比的建筑瑰宝。

帝国议事广场由一系列有 纪念性的公众广场组成

Imperial Forums are sance art. Leonardo, who was not fond of frescoing, chose to paint on the walls of a series of monumental the refectory using a technique not unlike public squares painting on canvas. The aim was to achieve those light effects so dear to him, for the creation of a work that appeared like a luminous painting, full of nuances and details. The characters portrayed do not have, indeed, the stiffness of holy statues, but the physicality and gestures of real people. But this technique proved incompatible with the humidity of the space, given its vicinity to the kitchens, bewildering experts and restorers until the final epic restoration that ended in 1999. The Last Supper is located within the imposing Santa Maria delle Grazie complex, with its cloisters and church crowned by Bramante’s Dome, and built for Ludovico Il Moro as his family’s mausoleum. VENICE - PALAZZO CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO Hidden in a maze of streets and canals, just steps away from Campo Manin, in the district of San Marco, is an architectural gem without equal. It is the fifteenth-century Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo, best-known for its “bizarre and graceful” external spiral staircase commissioned by Pietro Contarini, a scion of the noble and influ49


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这 就 是 十 五 世 纪 的 孔 塔 里 尼 - 德 尔 - 博 沃 洛 宫 (Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo) 又称蜗牛府,以彼得罗-孔塔里尼 (Pietro Contarini) 的“怪异而优雅”的螺旋楼梯而闻名。 彼得罗是名门望族之后,十四世纪荣幸地将此楼赠与了当 时的塞雷尼西马共和国。 此楼被称为泻湖城市威尼斯的一颗暗藏的珍珠,经过长 期修复后于几年前重新向公众开放。 高28米,直径4.7,整个楼的高度都由凉廊和拱门组成, 上下共80个整体台阶,形成美妙的半球形眺望台,可以 俯瞰市区的屋顶。 与蜗牛府相连的是丁托列托府 (Sala del Tintoretto),这里 有珍贵的丁托列托 (Tintoretto) 的总督府天堂屋顶画的预 备草图之一,同时还收藏了圣索文诺 (Sansovino),瓜迪 (Guardi) 和塞巴斯蒂亚诺·里奇 (Sebastiano Ricci) 的作 品。蜗牛府是威尼斯隐藏珠宝网络的重要 组成部分,同时还有其他景点:克罗齐非 教堂 (l’Oratorio dei Crociferi),欧斯皮特雷 托建筑群 (Complesso dell’Ospedaletto),老 处女教堂 (Chiesa delle Zitelle) 和悔罪教堂 28 (Chiesa delle Penitenti)。

蜗牛府楼高共

The Contarini del Bovolo Staircase is 28 meters high

ential family that, in the 1300s, had the privilege of giving a Doge to the Republic of Venice. 28 meters high and with a diameter of 4.70 meters, the structure is made of red bricks and white Istrian stone and consists of ascending rows of round-headed arches and 80 monolithic steps leading, counterclockwise, to an amazing domed belvedere affording a breathtaking view of the city’s rooftops and of the domes of San Marco. Connected to the Bovolo Staircase is the Tintoretto Room, a prestigious exhibition space which houses one of the preliminary sketches of Il Paradiso, the extraordinary painting by Tintoretto kept at Palazzo Ducale, and works by Sansovino, Guardi and Sebastiano Ricci. The Contarini del Bovolo Staircase is also one of Venice’s so-called Hidden Gems, along with another four must-see sights: Oratorio dei Crociferi, Complesso dell’Ospedaletto, Chiesa delle Zitelle and Chiesa delle Penitenti. ROME - IMPERIAL FORUMS We are in the heart of ancient Rome, where the past and present meet. The present of the many excavations recently made to bring this amazing treasure to light. Most of the charm of the forums lies 50


ART ITINERARY

The Contarini del Bovolo Staircase, Venice (ph. Yorik Tortato, courtesy Fondazione Venezia Servizi) 51


The top of the Contarini del Bovolo Staircase (ph. Yorik Tortato, courtesy Fondazione Venezia Servizi)


ART ITINERARY

罗马-帝国议事广场 我们位于古罗马的中心,这里曾是原始时代、早期和共和 国时期的罗马以及接下来的罗马帝国时期的心脏。沿着她 的古老街道漫步是体验她威严魅力的最佳方法。帝国议事 广场是罗马帝国执政的地方。 我们的漫步将从第一个广场即原始帝国和共和国时代的凯撒 广场开始。这个广场由朱利叶斯·凯撒 (Julius Caesar) 于公 元前46年而建造作为帝国的象征。 接下来是奥古斯都广场 (The Forum of Augustus) 及其丰富 的画廊,里面陈列着罗马神话和历史人物雕塑。第三个广场 是皇帝韦斯帕西安在公元71年建造的圣殿堂于 75年完工,包 括希腊神庙、圣殿和大量的希腊起源雕塑作品。位于韦斯帕 纤 (Vespasian) 广场的著名的文学和科学图书馆 (Bibliotheca Pacis) 是帝国文化历史记载中心,在这里可以看到罗马人对 古代艺术进行恢复和编目的能力。第四个广 场是于公元 81 年至 96 年间由皇帝多米提安建 设的。它是五个广场中最小的一个,是为庆 祝达契亚人民胜利而建立的宏伟的图拉真广 场的前期工程,该广场于公元101-102年和 105106年两次连续的激烈军事冲突中被损坏。

斯蒂伯特博物馆是佛罗 伦萨最迷人的地方之一

The Stibbert Museum is one of the most fascinating places in Florence

in their grandeur and the best way to perceive it is to walk along the ancient streets brought back to light. The Imperial Forums served a political and justice administration function. Our tour starts with the first expansion of the Roman Forum, that is, the forum dating back to the Proto-Imperial and Republican period, the Forum of Caesar. This piazza, which Julius Caesar decided to construct for propaganda reasons, was inaugurated in 46 B.C. The later Forum of Augustus was not only a huge space for legal proceedings but also a rich gallery of sculptures portraying the major mythological and historical figures of the history of Rome. The third forum in chronological order is the Temple of Peace, built under Emperor Vespasian in 71 A.C. It was completed in 75 A.C. and consisted of a big piazza with porticos. The area devoted to the cult of the Goddess of Peace stood in the middle of the southern portico featured, in addition to the Temple, a rich collection of Hellenic statues which testify to the Romans’ skill in restoring and cataloguing ancient art and made Vespasian’s Forum a sort of cultural center, along with a famous literary and scientific library (Bibliotheca Pacis). The fourth Forum was built under Domitian, Emperor from 81 to 96 A.C. It was the smallest of the five Imperial Forums and served 54


ART ITINERARY

The Stibbert Museum in Florence (ph. Alessandro Moggi) 55


ART ITINERARY

The Stibbert Museum. Above: the cavalcade room. Below: the Japanese section (ph. Alessandro Moggi) 56


ART ITINERARY

佛罗伦萨-斯蒂伯特博物馆 一边走一边触摸博物馆正厅中闪闪发光的金属马队的武器 和铠甲是绝对独特的体验。马和骑士的游行队伍穿越大 厅,仰视时可以看到圣乔治斩杀诞下弗雷德里克·斯蒂伯 特祖先的象征着英格兰的神龙。在充满异国情调的盎格鲁佛罗伦萨的蒙塔吉别墅中,有一个真实的19世纪展厅收藏着 很多珍贵的古老的武器和盔甲、奇异品和绘画。 这里还有日本展室,是在日本以外世界上最大的收藏品 库,包括属于最后的武士的盔甲。 这里还保存着拿破仑在米兰被加冕为意大利国王时所穿的 珍贵地幔。让我们冥想一下在 1887年当人们看到弗雷德里 克·斯蒂伯特

(Frederick Stibbert)

穿戴着十四世纪的英国

盔甲来到圣玛丽亚·德尔·菲奥雷 (Santa Maria del Fiore)

门口为其庆祝

落成典礼的情形。这个神奇的被绿树 环绕着的地方一定让孩子们惊叹,但 远远不止这些。

骑兵室,是真正惊心动 魄的经历 The Cavalcade Room,

as an introduction to the imposing Forum is a truly breathtaking of Trajan, the fifth one, which was built to celebrate the victory over Dacia, after two experience very hard-fought military campaigns (101102, 105-106 A.C.). FLORENCE - STIBBERT MUSEUM Entering the museum’s main hall, the Cavalcade Room, is a truly breathtaking experience. A parade of fully armored horses and knights and St. George killing the dragon, the symbol of Frederick Stibbert’s homeland, watching them from above. In this Anglo-Florentine villa on the hill of Montughi, Stibbert created a sort of nineteenth-century wunderkammer, filled to the brim with ancient weapons and armors, exotic objects and paintings. The Japanese collection is the world’s biggest outside of Japan and includes samurai swords and armour.  There is also the precious mantle worn by Napoleon on the day he was crowned King of Italy in Milan. Just imagine the expression on the faces of those who saw Stibbert arriving at the inauguration of the façade of Santa Maria del Fiore wearing an English suit of armour that dated back to the 1300s and is now kept in the museum! The villa is surrounded by a beautiful park. A magic place for children and adults alike. 57


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拉斐尔年 The Year of Raphael

500年后在佛罗伦萨追踪他的足迹 For the 500th anniversary of his death, we retrace the stages of his training in Florence TEXT

Antonio Natali

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The Portrait of Agnolo Doni by Raphael, Uffizi Galleries, Hall 41 59


The portrait of Maddalena Doni by Raphael. Uffizi Galleries 60


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拉斐尔 (Raffaello Sanzio) 诞生在乌尔比诺镇,从那里开始 了他短暂但辉煌的一生,最后在罗马去世,画上人生的记 号。 为了理解拉斐尔早期作品中的温柔祥和与在罗马期间的英 雄形象之间的区别,我们必须对1504年至1508年间他在佛罗 伦萨的生活进一步深入;这时的佛罗伦萨政治清明,经济 繁荣,就像一座新兴的雅典城。然而在十六世纪前十年, 即在皮埃尔•索代里尼掌领的共和国年代 (1502-1512) ,年轻 的拉斐尔只身来到佛罗伦萨发展,那时达芬奇和普罗米修 斯和许多艺术家都在这里生活、创作。 拉斐尔到佛罗伦萨不仅是为了挣钱(最后也是很低的收 入),而是为了在那里吸收业已成功艺术家的技法长处, 摈弃不足之处,渐儿形成自己独特的风格。 五个世纪后,几乎一百年前马萨乔 (Masaccio) 在布兰卡奇 教堂留下的教诲似乎对拉斐尔这样的年轻人的影响非常有 限。而乔尔乔•瓦萨里 (Giorgio Vasari) 却是十六世纪一位可靠的见证人,即 使在他那个时代,他也从未怀疑马萨 西奥在卡尔米内圣母大殿里壁画的价 值:“[……]直到今天,这座教堂一直 被无数设计师和艺术大师频繁光顾。

拉斐尔是文艺复兴时期 无可争议的巨匠之一

Raffaello is one of the Raphael’s short earthly life, which began in the graceful town of Urbino, ended with his undisputed masters apotheosis in Rome. In order to gain a betof the Renaissance ter understanding of the linguistic difference between the sweetness of his early works and the heroic tone of the paintings he produced in Rome, it is necessary to reflect upon the artist’s stay in Florence between 1504 and 1508, exactly the central years of Florence’s glorious season as the “new Athens”. We need to get a sense of what the city was like in the first decade of the 1500s, in the years of Pier Soderini’s Republic (1502-1512), when the young Raphael roamed the city’s streets, around the same time as Leonardo and Michelangelo, just to mention the best-known artists of the period. Raphael himself arrived in Florence in search of commissions (which, however, would prove to be of lesser importance), but also to be around whatever new was happening. Five centuries later, it may seem that Massaccio’s Brancacci Chapel had very little influence on a young man such as Raphael, one hundred years after its completion. However, Vasari, who is very reliable when it comes to the 1500s, has no doubt whatsoever about the educational value of Masaccio’s frescoes in the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine even in his own days: “[…] this chapel has been visited by countless masters and those who were practic61


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[……]所有到他这里来,在这个教堂里练习和学习的最著 名雕塑家和画家都变得非常卓越出色”。 他们包括十五世纪的伟大艺术家以及与瓦萨里同一年代的 艺术家:“[……]莱昂纳多·达芬奇、彼得罗·佩鲁吉 诺、圣马可作坊的弗拉·巴尔托洛梅奥、马里奥托·阿尔 贝蒂内利和伟大的米开朗基罗·博那罗蒂;作画以“秀 美”著称、来自乌尔比诺的拉斐尔、格拉纳齐、洛伦佐· 迪克雷蒂、瑞多尔夫·季兰达、 安德利亚·德尔·萨尔 托、罗索、弗兰齐比奇欧、巴乔·班迪内利、西班牙的阿 隆索·卡诺、蓬托莫、皮耶里诺·德尔瓦加和托托·德 尔·努齐亚塔”。 对在布兰卡奇教堂学画的画家中,瓦萨里认为拉斐尔是十 六世纪最优秀的画家之一(此外还有来自西班牙的画家贝 鲁格特,他也在佛罗伦萨作画)。 瓦萨里曾经提及拉斐尔、贝鲁格特和许多艺术家在同一时 期纷纷来此,临摹学习米开朗基罗的《卡辛 那之战》草图。 拉斐尔的名字常常因为他杰出的战斗画而在艺术 圈内被提及。瓦萨里评论说,“所有那些研究、 学习绘图草图,多年在佛罗伦萨为外国或本国贵 族服务的艺术家,后来都成为优秀的画家”。

达芬奇和米开朗基罗是 与他同时期的大师

Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo were his contemporaries

ing their drawing from those time to our own. […] all the most celebrated sculptors and painters who have worked or studied in this chapel have become distinguished and renowned”. And he mentions them all, firstly the masters of the 1400s, and then his contemporaries: “Lionardo da Vinci, Pietro Perugino, fra’ Bartolomeo di San Marco, Mariotto Albertinelli and the most divine Michelagnolo Buonarroti; Raphael of Urbino also developed in the chapel the beginnings of his beautiful style, also Granacci, Lorenzo di Credi, Ridolfo Ghirlandaio, Andrea del Sarto, Rosso Fiorentino, Franciabigio, Baccio Bandinelli, Alonso Spagnolo, Jacopo da Pontormo, Pierino del Vaga and Toto del Nunziata”. Therefore, Vasari added Raphael to list of the illustrious sixteenth-century artists (which included Berruguete who came from Spain and had dealt with the Florentines) who had studied in the Brancacci chapel. They are more or less the same who, according to Vasari, studied Michelangelo’s cartoon for the Battle of Cascina. Raphael is mentioned as one of the best among the “maniera moderna” artists. Vasari wrote: “ All those who studied the cartoon and sketched from it, which both foreigners and locals continued to do in Florence for many years afterwards, became distinguished individuals in this profession”. There is, however, a passage in Vasari’s detailed description of that 62


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Mary, Christ and the young John the Baptist, known as the “Madonna of the Goldfinch”, Uffizi Galleries, Hall 41 63


ART ANNIVERSARY

The Distribution PortraitofofAlms Elisabetta and Death Gonzaga, of Ananias Uffizi by Masaccio, Cappella Galleries,, Brancacci Hall 41 64


ART ANNIVERSARY

然而在瓦萨里的评论中有一段关于佛罗伦萨文化繁荣时期 的描述,其中也提到了拉斐尔的名字。 这是关于在优雅“木雕师”和建筑师巴乔·达尼奥洛的 作坊进行的许许多多聚会的回忆,在巴乔的房间前集 聚,“在冬天,除了许多市民外,还有我们最优秀和最好 的艺术家,集聚在那里进行举行非常有意义的演讲和重 要的辩论。第一个名字是来自乌尔比诺的拉斐尔,年轻 的......”;然后就像其他片段罗列了一系列参与活动的 艺术大师的名字;最后他总结说:“有时米开朗基罗以及 其他年轻的佛罗伦萨和外国艺术家也会前来聚会”。 在佛罗伦萨,这种“现代化”并不会发生在像巴乔这样著 名工坊里,但是那里却是萌发新意识的基地。正如瓦萨里 所证明的,而拉斐尔常在那家作坊里出入(虽然不是主要 参与者),他是改革“重要辩论”的参与者,而且他也为 此改变了他自己的作画风格。 在与佛罗伦萨艺术大师的交流中,拉 斐尔典型翁布里亚人的温和和丰富文 化内容转变成一种新的风格,变得更 加朴实(虽然总是和蔼可亲)的自然 和人性的画风。

他的作品对后来的艺术 家们有着深远的影响

His work influenced wonderful age which, better than any other, gives an idea of the scale of Florence’s culgenerations of artists tural liveliness, which Raphael took actively after him part in. It is the recollection of the intellectual gatherings held in the workshop of Baccio d’Agnolo, “worker in wood” and a very elegant architect: “there were often gathered round him, in addition to many citizens, the best and most eminent masters of our arts, so that most beautiful conversations and discussions of importance took place there, particularly in winter. The first of these masters was Raffaello da Urbino; then comes a list of other great masters who gathered there, similar to the above-mentioned lists, which ends as follows: “and sometimes, but not often, Michelagnolo, with many young Florentines and foreigners”. In Florence, the “maniera moderna”, if not born in the workshop of a major artist such as Baccio, definitely found its ideological sanction there. And Raphael- as Vasari confirms- hung about that workshop (and not as second lead), where not only he actively took part in the “discussions of importance” on a form of expression which was undergoing a radical change, but he also brought about a decisive change in his own personal language. In the company of the Florentine masters, Raphael’s delicate early style of Umbrian origin made way for by a more veracious (though still amiable) reading of nature and humanity. 65


历史性企业

只是一 条裙子而已 It’s Just a Skirt 直接从时装发布会下架的2020春夏裙装 The new skirts for S/S 2020. Straight from the runways BY

Marta Innocenti Ciulli

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历史性企业

DOLCE&GABBANA 不寻常的颜色,皮革面 料,笔直,长到膝盖以 下,适合与带有花卉图案 的经典衬衫搭配

Just below the knee pencil skirt in unusual colour leather. It is paired with the classic floral print shirt (courtesy Dolce&Gabbana) 67


历史性企业

GUCCI 柔软的皮革,美人鱼裙摆,正面 开叉很高,在这里与深领口和包 裹袖子的金色紧身衣搭配

Soft leather mermaid skirt with high front slit. Here it is paired with a gold fish-scale body with close-fitting sleeves and plunging neckline (courtesy Gucci) 68


历史性企业

VERSACE 带有小侧缝的直裙长到膝盖 以下,抽褶高腰,剪开的口 袋, 与高垫肩衬衫搭配

Below the knee straight skirt with small side slits. Gathered high waist, slit pockets. Here it is paired with a power shoulder shirt (courtesy Versace) 69


历史性企业

EMPORIO ARMANI 柔软的欧根纱中长裙,间插着明 暗不同的双粉色线条,与灰色天 鹅绒双排扣长夹克搭配

Soft midi-skirt in organza with two-tone pink stripe, paired with long twobutton double-breasted jacket in grey crushed velvet (courtesy Emporio Armani) 70


历史性企业

MIU MIU 筒裙下摆饰有刺绣荷叶边, 与宽肩上衣和羊毛套头衫 搭配

Straight skirt with flounced hem finished with a play of embroidered ruffles. Contrasting wideshoulder top and wool sweater (courtesy Miu Miu) 71


历史性企业

ERMANNO SCERVINO 不对称的欧根纱半身裙加上水钻 磨边,明亮的薄纱上衣,紫色的 细肩带,美式剪裁在脖子上收紧

Asymmetrical organza skirt with rhinestoneedged flounces, luminous top with spaghetti shoulder straps and halter neck-style voile ties (courtesy Ermanno Scervino) 72


历史性企业

LOUIS VUITTON 荷叶边迷你半身裙,与具有特 色袖子和古典风格的领子的马 德拉斯衬衫搭配,再外加一件 不系扣的马甲

Full flounced miniskirt. Paired with a madras check shirt with big sleeves and classic collar and an open front gilet (courtesy Louis Vuitton) 73


CULT BAGS

我需要你 I want you BY

Marta Innocenti Ciulli

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CULT BAGS CULT BAGS

Emilio Pucci 在本品牌的基本色调中,这是新款的邮递员式双色手提包, 包盖只是随意地搭上去 In the fashion house’s signature colours, here is the new two-tone postman bag – with the difference that this one is handheld. Closure is just perceptible

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Hermès 看起来像个水桶。 皮革经过了切割和加工,但是为了避免被人偷窥包内内容,里面有一个帆布袋, 可以收紧并可以在必要时完全关紧 It looks like a bucket. The leather is cut and perforated, but to prevent preying eyes, there is a canvas pouch inside that can be cinched and stay tightly closed when necessary

7676


CULT BAGS CULT BAGS

Salvatore Ferragamo 这是一款功能齐全的挎肩包,采用不同颜色的高级皮革制成, 可以说是美观实用的代名词 Marked by practicality and style, here is the very functional shoulder messenger bag in different colour premium leather

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CULT BAGS CULT BAGS

Coach 献给那些为所钟爱的歌手发狂的人。 真正的五十年代淑女系列手臂包,有按扣 Dedicated to those who are crazy about their favourite singer. Fifties-style over arm bag with snap closure. Oh so ladylike

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CULT BAGS CULT BAGS

Miu Miu 粉红色的斜肩包脱颖而出,献给爱做梦的女孩。 柔软压花皮革,精致的包扣, 有引人注目的水手结肩带 A shoulder bag for daydreamy girls in an eye-catching pink. Soft goffered leather, large closure. But the new touch is the shoulder strap with real sailors’ knots

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CULT BAGS

Jil Sander 呢称“小薄荷枸芨子”“Goji frame mini mint”,这是一种用柔软皮革制成的迷你手袋, 五十年代外观,有按扣和单手柄 ‘Goji frame mini mint’ is the name of the soft leather la mini bag with echoes of Fifties design style. Snap fastening, a single handle

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CULT BAGS

Saint Laurent 这款不老的牛仔裤面料迷你小包采用垂直线条缝制。 链式肩带,有暗藏的金属扣 The mini envelope shoulder bag is in vertical stitch timeless denim. Chain shoulder strap, concealed metal buckle

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活跃男士 Active men BY

Marta Innocenti Ciulli

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CULT MAN CULT BAGS

Marni 橙色的尼龙单肩包,前方有多个口袋、手柄、 可调节背带、拉链和内包 One shoulder backpack in orange nylon. Front pockets, top handle, adjustable shoulder strap, zip closure and inside pocket

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CULT MAN CULT BAGS

Dolce&Gabbana 橡胶底运动鞋,柔软的鞋面、 细鞋带以及徽标侧贴都由高科技材料组成 Sports shoes with rubber sole, soft upper in a mix of hi-tech materials, laces and side patch featuring logo

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CULT MAN CULT BAGS

Coach 红色防水风衣,带兜帽、拉链、 侧袋和小口袋,超级美观实用 Practical and high-performance, waterproof red windbreaker with hood, zip, side pockets and inner pockets

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CULT MAN CULT BAGS

Ermenegildo Zegna 飞行员“Aviator”款,醋酸纤维镜架太阳镜,双桥, 温暖的棕色发亮而同时带有琥珀色的条纹 Aviator sunglasses with glossy warm brown and amber acetate frame, double bridge

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CULT MAN CULT BAGS

JW Anderson 洋溢着活跃的都市风格的通用背包,超轻巧,有口袋和抽绳, 斜背带卸下和穿上都很方便 Carry-all with detachable shoulder strap. Active-urban style, very light, with pockets and drawstring

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腕表情深 I watch you BY

Sabrina Bozzoni

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CULT WATCH CULT BAGS

萧邦Alpine Eagle腕表 灵感来自阿尔卑斯山新款别致的运动手表新系列。 用独家开发出的Lucent Steel A223精钢制造,不仅美观同时兼具卓越性能; 电镀蓝色表盘,认证机芯和天文钟,表冠镌刻罗盘玫瑰。chopard.it Chopard Alpine Eagle The new sporty-chic watch collection inspired by the Alps. In Chopard Lucent Steel A223, a feat of technical execution and design, galvanic blue dial and certified movement and chronometer. The crown is engraved with a compass rose. On chopard.it 89


CULT WATCH CULT BAGS

劳力士蚝式恒动日志型31腕表 优雅且具有象征意义,致力于女性世界。Everose rolesor永恒玫瑰金 钢(蚝式钢与18ct永恒玫瑰金的组合),配置精湛劳力士工艺的2236型机芯。rolex.com Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 Refined and emblematic, for women, in Everose rolesor a combination of Oystersteel and 18 ct Everose gold. Fitted with caliber 2236, the quintessence of Rolex technology. On rolex.com 90


CULT WATCH CULT BAGS

劳力士蚝式恒动日志型41腕表 经典男式腕表的典范。3235机芯,蚝式表壳结构,防水深达100米, 永恒玫瑰金钢表壳和表带。秒针暂停功能,以准确调校时间。rolex.com Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust 41 Classic elegance for men. Caliber 3235, Oyster case water-resistance 100 meters guaranteed, in Everose rolesor, just like the bracelet. Superlative Chronometer. On rolex.com 91


CULT WATCH

江诗丹顿Patrimony传承系列腕表 超薄万年历腕表搭载超薄自动上链1120 QP机芯。玫瑰金表壳与蓝 色表盘的日光磨砂旭日风格完美匹配。vacheron-constantin.com Vacheron Constantin. Patrimony ultra-thin perpetual calendar marks the time at the rhythm of the legendary self-winding ultra-thin 1120 QP. Rose-gold case that beautifully matches the blue, soleil-satin-finish of the case. On vacheron-constantin.com 92


CULT WATCH

朗格精钢腕表,Odysseus腕表是萨克森品牌的第一枚运动腕表,精钢表壳,直径40,5毫米,厚度11,1毫米, 暗蓝色黄铜表盘,白金指针。搭载朗格全新研发的 L155.1 Datomatic 型自动上链机芯。alange-soehne.com A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus is the German brand’s first sporty watch. Stainless steel case 40.5 mm in diameter and 11.1 mm thick, a dark blue dial and white-gold hands. The manufacture caliber Lange L155.1 Datomatic is taylor-made for the Odysseus. On alange-soehne.com 93


Indya Moore 94


PHOTOGRAPHY EXPERIENCE

寻找朱丽叶 Look for Juliet 倍耐力2020年历 Paolo Roversi’s 2020 Pirelli Calendar TEXT Massimo De Angelis PHOTO Paolo Roversi

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红尘滚滚,人世纷纷,人,会因为爱一个人而改变吗?我们又可以为 自己的灵魂知己牺牲什么,或者牺牲多少呢?莎士比亚戏剧中的朱丽 叶今天还会因为爱情而献出生命吗?倍耐力2020年历围绕着这个主题 展开,由著名摄影师保罗·罗维西 (Paolo Roversi) 拍摄的作品于2019 年12月在维罗纳古老市中心的爱乐歌剧院展出。随着时间的流逝,“ 倍耐力年历”依然是当代美的集合,今年它以意义深远的“寻找朱丽 叶”(Looking for Juliet) 为主题,超越光鲜形象,通过词语、文字和 文本,以书籍形式发表。倍耐力年历还首次进行了将摄影与电影相结 合的尝试,在18分钟电影短片中模特们真诚坦白她们心中的秘密、情 感和感伤。短片强烈的叙事结构触目骇心,摄影照片引人入胜,但最 令人瞩目的是它们的表达力、诗意和所传达的真实感受。参与拍摄的 模特是来自不同文化背景的国际明星、模特和歌手。她们有《暮光之 城》中的“吸血鬼”克里斯汀·斯图尔特 (Kristen Stewart);《哈利· 波特》小女生“赫敏”艾玛·沃森 (Emma Watson);导演佩德罗·阿 尔莫多娃最爱的西班牙当红歌手罗莎莉亚 (Rosalía);系列片《王冠》 中年轻的“伊丽莎白二世女王”克莱尔·福伊 (Claire Foy);耐人寻味 的纽约模特茵蒂娅·摩尔 (Indya Moore);英国演员米娅·高斯 (Mia Goth);中国演员李宇春 (Chris Lee);现年19岁,父亲是伊朗人,母亲 是非裔美国人,才华横溢的女演员和民权主义者雅拉·莎希迪 (Yara Shahidi)。在罗维西的镜头前,她们用各种各样的情感和表情塑造不 Can love still transform people? And what, or how much, are we willing to sacrifice for our soulmate? Would women like Shakespeare’s Juliet still give their lives for affairs of the heart? These are some of the questions that provided the inspiration for the 2020 Pirelli calendar, shot by celebrated photographer Paolo Roversi and presented in December at Verona’s Teatro Filarmonico di Verona, the perfect and very picturesque setting in the historic city centre. The ‘Cal’ continues to represent the epitome of contemporary beauty and this year, with the telling title Looking for Juliet, it moves beyond glossy images and is even published in book format, with words and text as well as photography. It’s accompanied by a short but intense 18-minute film, in which the models confess their secrets, their emotions and their passions. The strong narrative approach is immediately evident; photography must be beautiful but, above all, expressive, poetic and able to convey real feelings. The Calendar’s cast is important, eclectic and international. There’s Kristen Stewart, the vampire of the Twilight saga; there’s Emma Watson, formerly the young Hermione in the Harry Potter films; there’s the impetuous Spanish singer Rosalía, a favourite of Pedro Almodovar, and the delightful Claire Foy, the young Queen Elizabeth in ‘The Crown’; there’s the intriguing New Yorker Indya Moore, British actor Mia Goth, Chinese singer Chris Lee, and lastly the exotic civil rights activist Yara Shahidi, nineteen-year-old daughter of an Iranian father and an African-American mother. All are transformed into modern-day condottieri of love; innocent and romantic, but at the same time rebellious like Juliet, their poses and gazes authentic, their bod96


PHOTOGRAPHY EXPERIENCE

From above clockwise: Yara Shahidi, Claire Foy, Emma Watson, Kristen Stewart 97


PHOTOGRAPHY EXPERIENCE

Chris Lee 98


PHOTOGRAPHY EXPERIENCE

同的 “朱丽叶”,一样对爱执着、天真浪漫但也一样的叛逆,她们 真诚,没有裸体,穿着薄丝绸或欧根纱服装。今年倍耐力年历再次弃 用性感的全裸女模,用收集世界各地女性,记录她们如何努力成为自 己未来生活主人公的片段掀起洗版浪潮。在这方面,保罗·罗维西的 话非常有象征意义,他解释之所以选择在巴黎工作室和维罗纳城市之 间拍摄“年历”是因为维罗纳是一座有丰富夜间活动的神秘城市,他 20岁的女儿斯特拉就在这里。 这位意大利摄影师解释说“‘寻找朱 丽叶’的每个拍摄镜头都贴近我的心,我喜欢年历上记录倍耐力年历 主角生活中重要日期的每一行。每个女主角都有自己的个性风格,我 和她们见面、讨论时,她们素颜不施粉黛,穿着日常的服饰。每位“ 朱丽叶”都有自己的特质、文化、背景,最重要的是她们向我展开心 扉,讲述着自己的经历,和对朱丽叶的理解。我和她们在一起工作的 这段时间,我们一起见证了维罗纳的魅力、空旷无人和永恒”。罗维 西提到他女儿时充满爱“我也拍摄了斯特拉,她是我心中唯一、真正 的朱丽叶,要拍摄她还真的不那么容易”。 罗维西最后总结说“我 选择莎士比亚戏剧和他的女主人公,用他们来表达对我的意大利的致 敬,我现在虽然生活在巴黎,只能从远处关心意大利,但怀旧之情溢 于言表”。2020倍耐力年历聚合了新一代的期望,在不偏离当前主题 的情况下,试图超越惯用方式,重现自由女性的形象,把她们准备付 出一切拯救纯洁之爱的感觉淋漓尽致地表现出来。  ies never undressed but draped in lightweight silks and organzas. Once again banning nudity and come-hither sexiness, today’s Pirelli Calendar has shed its one-time skin and become a symbol that speaks of women who live in today’s world, where they seek action and take control of their own futures. In this sense, Paolo Roversi’s words take on added significance. The photographer decided to shoot the ‘Cal’ in his Paris studio and on the streets of Verona, a mysterious, nocturnal city in which his twenty-year-old daughter Stella roams. “Every shot in this Looking for Juliet project is close to my heart”, the Italian photographer says; “I love every line of the illustrated volume with the date stamps that record the essential stages in the lives of the Pirelli protagonists. Each woman has a chapter to herself; I meet them and portray them dressed simply in jeans or gorgeous dresses. Every Juliet has her character, her culture, her provenance, and above all they were all really generous in the way they outlined their stories and revealed them to me. With them I lived a fairy tale, in a fascinating, deserted and timeless Verona”. Paolo Roversi talks about his daughter: “I photographed Stella too; for me she represents the ideal and unique Juliet, so it wasn’t difficult to photograph her”. He concludes “I chose Shakespeare’s play and its heroine to pay homage to my Italy which, as I live in Paris, I see from a distance but with great nostalgia”. This, then, is a calendar that encapsulates the hopes of the younger generations, without distancing itself from current themes; an attempt to overcome everyday barriers and to fix the image of women who are free and ready to do anything to save the pure emotion of love. 99


ICON DESIGN

生动的语言 Living language 米兰,设计及其先驱,通过他们仍在创作中的作品 Milan, design and its pioneers through their cult objects still being made today TEXT

Teresa Favi

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Above: ‘Le Sfere’ by Gino Sarfatti, Flos/Astep, 1939-1970 (left). ‘Falkland’ designed by Bruno Munari for Danese, 1964 (right) Below: ‘Tre pezzi’ designed by Franco Albini for Cassina, 1959 (left). ‘Lady’ by Marco Zanuso for Cassina, 1951 (right) 101


Above: ’Boby’ by Joe Colombo for B-Line, 1970 (left), ‘Componibile’ by Anna Castelli Ferrieri for Kartell, 1969 (right). Below: ‘Carlton’ by Ettore Sottsass for Memphis, 1981 102


ICON DESIGN

米兰是一个实验型城市,追求创新和设计的先驱们总是能 在这里找到最理想的创作环境,成为这个不断创新城市中 的主导价值。想想当年达芬奇,为了实现他的才华和技 艺,曾在这里为卢多维科·斯福尔扎公爵工作了20年。 米兰还是在数个世纪后兴起的未来主义的起源城市,其艺 术形式在1920年代和1930年代大肆表现噪音、机械和生产 世界,并为在工业世界中后来的创作者们提供了特殊的灵 感。因此也就并非偶然在不久之后,在创造力、功能性和 非常活跃的工业网络的集体要求下,开启了我们这个时代 最重要的表达方式之一,设计。 从4月8日开始,三年展将 在由约瑟夫·吉尔玛领导的新Museo Permanente博物馆中 举行,米兰国际家具展推出了,由福尔玛 (Forma) 出版, 大卷册《设计之城。实验城市米兰》 (The Design City. Milano città laboratorio),在这本书中介绍了那些最杰出的 设计天才们以及在他们成名城市里的故事。 而我们会通过 他们著名的作品以及,注意这一点,仍在创作过程中的作 品,为你们讲述这些先驱的故事。 因为,设计的美正是因 为,通过工业制作,可以成为一种生动的语言。 Milan is a city/laboratory, where the seeds of innovation and planning have always found the perfect place to grow and dictate themselves as dominant values of an evolving society. Just consider Leonardo da Vinci, who to crown his dreams of ingenuity and technology, spent 20 years working for Ludovico Sforza. Milan is also the city that, centuries later, gave rise to Futurism, the art movement that celebrated the noise, machinery and world of production in the 1920s and ‘30s and which trained a particular sensitivity to industry in subsequent creators. It’s no surprise that this alchemy among creativity, functionality and an extraordinarily active industrial network soon led to one of the most important expressions of our time: design. Beginning on April 8, the Triennale dedicates the new Museo Permanente to design, headed up by Joseph Girma, and the Salone del Mobile celebrates the subject with a major publication, published by Forma, titled The Design City. Milano città laboratorio, which retraces the most brilliant talents and their stories in the city that made them famous. We tell you about the pioneers, through their best-known objects that - bear in mind - are still being made today. The amazing thing about design is that, thanks to industry, it’s a living language. 103


ICON DESIGN

Above: ‘Arco’ by Achille and Pier Giacomo Castiglioni for Flos, 1962. Below: ‘P40’ designed by Osvaldo Borsani for Tecno, 1955 104


ICON DESIGN

Above: ‘Eclisse’ by Vico Magistretti for Artemide, 1965 Below: ‘Toro’ by Luigi Caccia Dominioni for Azucena, 1973 105


Carlo Cracco, born in 1965 in Vicenza, is leader of the new generation of progressive Italian cuisine 106


FOOD INTERVIEW

他选择了米 兰作为事业 的起点 From the beginnings to Milan 星级大厨师卡罗-克拉科 (Carlo Cracco) 讲述他的故事 The great Michelin-star chef Carlo Cracco tells his story TEXT Federica Damiani PHOTO Niccolò Rastrelli

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“当我还是个孩子的时候,我都不知道有星级餐厅的存在。 我知道那些酒店里有餐厅,但是从来没去过。 在家里我们吃得好得 多, 我母亲做的维琴蒂娜鳕鱼比任何一家本地的餐厅都要好吃。 具有鲜明个性的当代厨师卡罗-克拉科这样讲述着他的人生历程 最初完全出于偶然,我报名参加了酒店协会的培训只是因为在 那里我每天可以学习二十分钟烹饪。在70年代后期,我的姐姐 跟我讲到一家米兰的星级餐馆,还给我看了一份叫《 盛宴Gran Gourmet》的美食杂志,上面有很多精致菜肴的照片。对于当时在 饭店煮“意大利面、火腿和豌豆”的我来说,展示了一个崭新的 世界。” 您是离开了马尔凯西才去米兰的吗? 是的,我是一个有好奇心的人。马尔凯西是一位很有组织的厨师。 在我们的团队里,每人都各有所长。 有个日本人擅长片生鱼,谁都 没见过片得这么好得的鱼, 有一个德国人很懂腌制三文鱼,还有很 多其他精彩绝活……我的拿手好戏是烤肉,我能在三十秒内切好一 只羊腿。 我们当时一共15个学徒,其中只有3个意 大利人。 您是什么时候开始做第一道菜的? 当时我在巴黎。有一天大厨师想把烤饭加进餐厅的菜单 里,并让我尝试制作藏红花烩饭。我兴奋得不得了。 Carlo Cracco

个性鲜明的当代厨师

is a contemporary chef with a clean-cut personality

“When I was a boy, I had no idea that restaurants had stars. I knew about hotel stars, but I had never been to a fancy restaurant. My mother’s home cooking was much better. No restaurant in town or anywhere near could beat mom’s salt cod stew”. Carlo Cracco, the contemporary chef with a clean-cut personality, recalls the beginnings of his career. “I had no passion whatsoever…I went to a hotel-management school because it was the only school where I could study no more than twenty minutes a day. Then, in the late seventies, my sister told me about a Michelin-starred restaurant in Milan and showed me a copy of Gran Gourmet, a gourmet food magazine with such perfect pictures of the dishes. A whole new world opened up for me”. And that is how you landed at Marchesi’s in Milan? Yes, I was so eager to learn. Marchesi was a methodical chef. Every member of his brigade specialized in one thing. The Japanese guy filleted the fish, and who had ever seen someone like that? The German boy prepared the marinated salmon, another thing that was completely new to me. I was a genius in boning meat. I could bone a lamb leg in thirty seconds. There were fifteen of us in the kitchen, only three of whom were Italian. When were you able to prepare your first dish? I was in Paris. The chef wanted to add a rice timbale to the menu and entrusted me with the task of creating a saffron risotto that could be used for 108


FOOD INTERVIEW

跟在佛罗伦萨的皮诺奇诺餐厅 (Enoteca Pinchiorri) 领取第三颗星奖 的感觉一样吗? 感觉不同但同样的强烈。您是一个很有勇气的厨师。您也许是最早 在米兰开餐厅的人之一... 绝对勇气十足。那是 2000 年代,当时大家都说在米兰很难觅到美 食。真的,美食餐厅十分罕见。只有萨德勒 (Sadler),艾莫 (Aimo) ,纳迪亚 (Nadia) 和其他一些餐厅。所以,当佩克餐馆建议我来开 餐厅时,我立即离开了朗格, 来到了米兰。 当时或者是现在,为什么您对在米兰开设餐馆这么有信心呢? 原因是一致的。 不管是今天或者是在二十年前,米兰始终是意大利 唯一具有远见卓识的城市。 米兰可以和东京,纽约,伦敦相媲美。 这里有高级的时装业,设计业。 这里每天都有新事物诞生。这里是 开办餐厅绝好的地方。 今天,大家都想在米兰开餐厅绝不是偶然的 现象。 您给大家描述一下您在画廊 (Galleria)里新 开的克拉科餐厅好吗? 我为这个项目感到特别骄傲,尤其是因为我 们带到餐桌上的所有东西都是我们自己生 Cracco 产的。 这里是米兰具有代表性的历史性场 所,因此我们在装修的时候,完全保留了原

“走廊中的 ” 是美食与艺术的结合 ‘Cracco in Galleria’

the dish. It was a very exciting moment. is a crossroads As exciting as gaining the third Michelin star at Florence’s Enoteca Pinchiorri? between food and Just as exciting, but in a different way. You are a pretty daring chef, perhaps one of the first to open a place in Milan… Definitely daring. Back in the early 2000s, I kept hearing people complain about bad restaurants in Milan. There was some truth to it, as there were few gourmet restaurants at the time: Sadler, Aimo, Nadia, a few more. So, when Peck offered me the chance to open my own place in Milan, I jumped at it right away and left the Langhe. What convinced you back then and what convinced you more recently to open in Milan? The reasons are more or less the same. Today like twenty years ago, Milan is the only Italian city having a visionary spirit. Milan looks to Tokyo, NY and London. This is the city where fashion and design were born, where things are born. So, I thought it could be the right place for my restaurant. It is no chance that now everyone wants to start a restaurant in Milan. How would you describe your new Cracco in Galleria restaurant? I’m very proud of this project for one reason in particular. Everything we serve is made by us. The restaurant is housed in a historic venue, like mostly all those inside the Galleria, so we renovated it while preserving the original decorations and spaces. On the ground floor, there is a bis109

art


FOOD INTERVIEW

始的装饰风格和空间。 一楼有一个小酒馆,您可以在那里喝咖啡、 享用早餐或喝开胃酒。 糕点和面包都是我们自己制作的。 在二楼 有食品作坊和带有厨房的美食餐厅,在顶层则是举办商务晚宴或周 年纪念活动的完美场所。从这里望出去可以欣赏到美得让人窒息的 景色。 画廊里的克拉科餐厅一共有多少员工? 76个人。 他们来自世界各地。 在他们身上我仿佛看到自己年轻的时 候,他们非常镇定、谦卑、工作认真。 菜单上绝对不能错过的一道菜是什么? 我说有两个。第一道是鸡蛋因为那是我的拿手菜。第二道就是可可 脆壳多宝鱼,那是在我的伟大导师马尔凯西开导下创意的一道菜。 克拉科工作之余有什么爱好? 尽量和家人呆在一起。 这可不是一句口头禅,时间是非常难得的。 这些天与我的夫人罗莎 (Rosa) 我们正在组织参加Mille Miglia的赛车 活动,老爷车是我的极大爱好。 罗莎 (Rosa) 来了,这就是将卡罗 (Carlo) 的创造力 整理下来的那个了不起的女人。 他看见她时眼神 一亮。 她微笑着做了一个舔手指的姿势,而他解 释道:“每次看到她总让我觉得我的人生还是蛮幸 运的, 噢,一生中有时运气真的很重要…”

奢华的装饰、优雅的环境 和四层楼高的布局

Sumptuous décor, elegant ambience and sprawling fourstorey layout

tro where customers can have breakfast or a drink or a cup of coffee. All pastries and bread are entirely made in-house, on the first floor. Then comes the gourmet restaurant with its kitchen and, on the last floor, a dining room for corporate events and private parties. The view is breathtaking. How many people work at Cracco in Galleria? Seventy-six people, coming from all over the world. In some ways, I see myself reflected in them at their age. The lovely thing about them is that they are very calm and do their job with great humility. What is the one must-try dish on your menu? I’ll have to pick two. The egg, because it’s my most gratifying dish, and the cocoa-crusted turbot because it was inspired by Marchesi, my great master. And what do you do when you’re not working? I relax and spend time with my family. It may sound commonplace, but it’s true. Time is the most precious gift. In these days, my wife Rosa and I are getting ready to take part in the Mille Miglia race. I’m passionately fond of vintage cars. And here comes Rosa, the woman who puts Carlo’s creativity in order. He looks at her through his smiling eyes. She makes a gesture of licking her fingers and laughs, while he says: “She does this to remind me how lucky I’ve been to meet her. Well, one can’t only have bad luck in life…good things happen too”. 110


FOOD INTERVIEW

Some images of Carlo Cracco’s eponymous restaurant which has open one year ago in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, just only few steps by the Duomo 111


WINE EXPERIENCE

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WINE EXPERIENCE

伟大的托斯卡 纳葡萄酒 Great Tuscan wines 五个不容错过的托斯卡纳品牌 Five top not-to-miss Made-in-Tuscany labels TEXT

Massimo Castellani - AIS Toscana

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WINE EXPERIENCE

From above clockwise: Masseto, Flaccianello della Pieve, Brunello di Montalcino Biondi Santi, Sassicaia 114


WINE EXPERIENCE

Masseto’s barrels

现代意义上的第一个伟大的托斯卡纳葡萄 The first great Tuscan wine, in the modern mean酒可以追溯到19世纪末,这归功于费鲁吉 ing of the word, dates back to the late nineteenth 奥·比昂迪·桑蒂,布鲁诺洛·蒙塔尔奇 century and was the result of the ground-breaking and far-sighted work of Ferruccio Biondi 诺父亲的创新精神和卓识远见。 他认识到正确地种植和酿造桑娇维塞葡萄 Santi, the father of Brunello di Montalcino wine, 酒 可 以 生 产 出 结 构 好 并 持 久 的 葡 萄 酒 。 who realized that proper growing and vinification of Sangiovese grapes 从那时起,Brunello di would lead to a structured and Montalcino Biondi Santi就 long-living wine. Since then, 一直是意大利酿酒界中的 Brunello di Montalcino Bion翘楚。 di Santi has been one of the finest and best-known Italian 最近,托斯卡纳沿岸葡 wines. 萄酒的繁荣发展,凭借 Between The rise in popularity of the 博尔盖里的西施佳雅 wines of the Tuscan Coast, tradition (Sassicaia) , 在 酿 酒 工 艺 including Sassicaia whose 上取得了巨大的进步,其 and innovation production method in Bolgh灵感来自于法国一些著名 eri was inspired by the great 的葡萄酒。 它由85%的 French wines, is a more recent 赤霞珠,以及品丽珠酿制 phenomenon. The 1980, 1981 而成, 1980、1981和1985年份,在全世界 and 1985 Sassicaia vintages, a blend of 85% Cab范围内取得了巨大的成功,其威名享誉至 ernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc grapes, met with huge international success and still receive 今。 几年后,同样在博尔盖里,又推出了另一 great attention from collectors. In Bolgheri again, but a few years later, another unforgettable wine 款值得纪念的酒:马塞托 (Masseto),它 was created: Masseto, a 100% Merlot by Tenuta 是 Ornellaia酒庄纯正的梅洛,如今是全球

在传统与创新 之间

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WINE EXPERIENCE

Above: Tignanello Below: Sassicaia wine cellar 116


WINE EXPERIENCE

Tignanello’s vineyrds

顶级葡萄酒在英国上市的少数意大利酒之 dell’Ornellaia, which is one of the few Italian la一。 bels to be quoted on the British Stock Exchange 另一个具有革命性的项目是,在经典基安 among other foreign icon wines. 蒂 地 区 , 确 定 了 Tignanello 是 源 自 Antinori Another revolutionary wine project is the one 酒庄,它是卓越和优雅的一个典范。 1970 that led to the production, in the Chianti Classico area, of Tignanello wine by Antinori, a paragon 年,Tignanello开始使用Chianti Classico of excellence and elegance. In Riserva(经典基安蒂陈酿) 1970, Tignanello was labelled 的名字。 “Chianti Classico Riserva”, but 而自第二年,它就背离了 the following year the wine 传统,开始采用另一种模 was produced by using an in式:将国际葡萄藤与桑娇 novative method: international Revolutions grape varieties blended with 维赛相混合。 Sangiovese. This wine is con我们看到的是第一批超级 and great sidered to be one of the first 托斯卡纳中的一款酒,拥 visions so-called Supertuscans, top有个性和优雅,追求卓越 quality wines bursting with 的品质。 personality and elegance. 80 年 代 是 葡 萄 酒 体 系 发 The eighties were years of 生重大变革的年代。 great change in the wine 在 基 安 蒂 生 产 出 了 纯 粹 的 桑 娇 维 塞 葡 萄 world. 100% Sangiovese wines were born in the 酒,如Pieve della Tenuta Fontodi酒庄的 Chianti area, such as Flaccianello by Tenuta Flaccianello,其带来了外国人在托斯卡纳 Fontodi, which fully reflects the Chiantishire ex度假时所追求的完全的“基安蒂郡”式体 perience, so popular with foreigners vacationing 验。 这是一款将生活、工作和自然完美融 in Tuscany. This wine represents the perfect marriage of life, work and nature. 合在酒杯中的葡萄酒。

变革与卓识远见

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VENEZIA

FIRENZE

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Relais Santa Croce Via Ghibellina, 87 50122 Firenze 055 2342230 Grand Hotel Minerva Piazza Santa Maria Novella 16 50123 Firenze 055 27230 Hotel Savoy Piazza della Repubblica 7 50123 Firenze Helvetia & Bristol Via dei Pescioni, 2 50123 Firenze NH Collection Firenze Porta Rossa Via Porta Rossa,19 50123 Firenze UNA Hotel Vittoria Via Pisana, 59 50143 Firenze 055 88881 Villa le Maschere Via Nazionale 75 50031 Barberino di Mugello (FI) 055 88881 Westing Excelsior Piazza Ognissanti 3 50123 Firenze 055-27151

SIENA

Grand Hotel Continental Via Banchi di Sopra, 85 53100 Siena

118

ROMA

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FASHION EXPERIENCE

时尚之路 Shopping for fashion 在意大利最美丽的城市中心,专门经营最出名品牌的精品店 The best shopping streets for top luxury brands in Italy’s most beautiful cities TEXT

Marta Innocenti Ciulli

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FASHION EXPERIENCE | MILANO

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FASHION EXPERIENCE | MILAN

The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

米兰。意大利最国际化的城市。毫无置疑她是高级时装之都,集 中在这里的时尚出版社和时装表演,吸引了来自世界各地的媒体 和买家。在米兰有个区域被称为时尚四方街区,她由四条街道围 成,这里因为汇集了珠宝店、精品店、时装展厅和时装设计室而 闻名。时尚区的中心蒙特拿破仑路 (via Montenapoleone)与纽 约的第五大道和巴黎的圣奥诺雷街堪称为世界上最昂贵的街道。 时尚区其他三边是曼佐尼路 (via Manzoni)、耳朵路 (via della Spiga) 和威尼斯大道 (Corso Venezia) 。 在这个区内还有许多小道。步行在这个 高端的时尚街区可以获得独一无二的感 受,感受米兰仅有的神秘气氛, 无论进 入精品店或者仅观览橱窗,都可以大饱 眼福。

蒙特拿破仑路是顶 级精品购物区

Via Monte Napoleone Milan. Italy’s most international city. Fashion capital and undisputed centre for ready-to-wear, it is also is a high- class home to many fashion publications and its runway shopping district shows attract press and buyers from all over the world. There is an area of Milan known as the Quadrilatero della Moda, or “Fashion Square” bordered by four streets famous for their high concentration of jewellery stores, boutiques and fashion and design showrooms. The heart of the district is Via Monte Napoleone, one of the most chic and expensive streets in the world along with New York’s Fifth Avenue and Faubourg St. Honoré in Paris. Via Manzoni, Via della Spiga and Corso Venezia make up the other three sides, and in addition there are many other little streets within this imaginary square. Strolling through this fashion district is a unique experience, a way to breathe in Milan’s magical atmosphere, and stepping into the boutiques or just admiring the store windows. 121


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Venice’s top shopping area is located between San Marco (ph. Alvise Nicoletti)

来到威尼斯游览绝对不会让你遗憾的。从下火车那一刻,你就会 马上感受到这是一座不可错过的城市。乘坐汽艇经历专用水道、 漫步在小巷中,穿过似乎颓废的大厦,从夹缝中观赏到充满魅力 的花园和庭院。你也许会迷失在这个遍布手工礼品店的城市, 也许会沉浸在由所有重要奢侈品牌组成的高档时尚区,也许你 会流连在代表当地传统的鞋店里,威尼斯不愧是步行街之都。参 观威尼斯的最佳时候是大清早,这样可以避免大量的游客,你 可以漫步到Calle Vallaresso, Calle Larga dell’Ascensione, Calle Frezzeria, Salizada, Calle San Moisè, Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 别忘了到坐落在Calle San Moisè 的教堂参 观。只要很好地选择,你就可以尽情地观 赏这些地方。

威尼斯的高级购物区坐落 在圣马克广场和 里阿尔托桥之间

Everyone should take a trip to Venice. As you come Venice’s top shopping area down the steps from the railways station, this spectacular city appears right in front of you. Motorboats is located between San speeding along canals, little alleyways to explore on Marco and the Rialto Bridge foot among what seem to be faded buildings, but are full of charm and conceal gardens and courtyards that are nothing short of magical. You can lose yourself in the city’s alternative little shops that are all about intricate craftwork, or head for the easy to spot area where all the big luxury names are to be found, perhaps to look for footwear, a local tradition – after all, Venice is a city made for walking. It’s best to start the day early so as to avoid the crowds of tourists and head towards Calle Vallaresso, Calle Larga dell’Ascensione, Calle Frezzeria, Salizada, Calle San Moisè, stopping on the way to admire the church, and Calle Larga XXII Marzo. You will be spoilt for shopping choice. 123


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FASHION EXPERIENCE | FLORENCE

Via de’ Tornabuoni is Florence’s shopping street par excellence

除了遍布在城市内无数的历史和文化奇观,佛罗伦萨以她的 时尚而出名。五十年代这里诞生了高级成衣工业,在皮蒂宫 辉煌的比安卡大厅内举行了如今众所周知的第一次时装表演。 市中心到处是奢侈品牌商店,主要集中在托纳波尼路 (via de’ Tornabuoni)、新维尼亚路 (via della Vigna) 、斯特罗齐路 (via degli Strozzi) 和罗马路 (via Roma) 上。千万别错过观赏这些商 店的橱窗,有些还真的是艺术作品。佛罗伦萨的手工大师流传 下来的知识、加工技术、手工艺和热情 为这个城市增添了额外的价值。这个城 市以她的皮革行业闻名于世,斯坎迪奇 地区是奢侈品牌皮具的生产基地。这座 艺术的城市和文艺复兴的摇篮一直吸引 着全世界的游客。

托纳波尼路是佛罗伦萨 最佳购物街

Via de’ Tornabuoni As well as the wealth of historical and artistic wonders scattered throughout the heart of the city, is Florence’s shopping Florence is also known for its fashion. What is now ready-to-wear was born here in the ‘Fifties, and the street par excellence splendid White Room at Palazzo Pitti was the site of the very first fashion shows as we know them today. Luxurious stores can be found throughout the city centre, but are mostly concentrated in Via de’ Tornabuoni, Via della Vigna, Via degli Strozzi and Via Roma. Some of the store windows are real works of art and well worth stopping to admire. But Florence also has an added value – the knowhow, manual skill and passion of those who pass on their craft. It is also world famous for its leather industry, with the small town Scandicci, just outside the city, producing leather products for all the top luxury brands. City of art and cradle of the Renaissance, it is a destination for visitors from all over the world. 125


FASHION EXPERIENCE | ROMA

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FASHION EXPERIENCE | ROME

The boutiques of top Italian and international designers are located around Via Condotti

罗马是用一本书无法全部叙述完的。这个城市到处是壁画、喷泉、 历史性城门、饱经沧桑的石阶和代表每个时期建筑特色的大厦。 城市是浪漫情人的向往之地,游人为她所迷惑,游客仰慕城市里的 每个细节。这里是发掘新角落的理想城市,在间歇之刻还可以享受 购物的快乐。这里会集了意大利和国际上最重要时尚设计师的精品 店、奢侈大品牌的专门店和世界上最有名望的珠宝店,每年在这个 历史悠久的城市举办两届高级时装表演。 最出名的购物三角区主要在康杜提路 (via Condotti)、伯格诺纳路 (via Borgognona)、 弗拉提纳路 (via Frattina) 和巴布伊诺路 (via del Babbuino) 之间,商店一般围绕在美丽 且充满欢快气氛的西班牙广场四周,一直延 伸到人民广场。

康杜提路是罗马最重要 的购物街

Via Condotti is the A whole book would not be enough to describe Rome. Everywhere are frescos, fountains, monuheart of the shopping mental doors, stone staircases worn away by time and buildings with distinct layers of architecture in Rome from different eras. This is a city that loves languid lovers, enchanted travellers and tourists wandering around in amazement. This is the ideal place to discover lesser-known wonders, but also to break off every now and then for the pure pleasure of shopping. The area that is home to the flagship stores of the most elegant Italian and international design houses, luxury ateliers – it should be remembered that the Eternal City hosts haute couture shows twice a year – and world-renowned jewellers, is the so-called Trident between the splendid, lively Piazza di Spagna and Piazza del Popolo, which encompasses Via Condotti, Via Borgognona, Via Frattina and Via del Babuino. 127


SHOPPING GUIDE

BOUTIQUES MILANO

Angela Caputi - Giuggiù (out of map) Via Madonnina, 11 Anteprima (out of map) Corso Como, 9 Antonia (out of map) Via Cusani, 5 Audemars Piguet 1 Via Monte Napoleone, 6 Balenciaga 2 Via Monte Napoleone, 23 Blumarine 3 Via della Spiga, 30 Boggi 4 Piazza San Babila, 3 Boss - Menswear Store 5 Corso Matteotti, 11 Bottega Veneta 6 Via Sant’Andrea, 15 Bottega Veneta 7 Via Monte Napoleone, 27/A Bottega Veneta - Home 8 Via Borgospesso, 5 Brioni 9 Via Gesù, 2/A Bulgari 10 Via Monte Napoleone, 2 Burberry 11 Via Monte Napoleone, 12 Canali 12 Via Pietro Verri, 1-3 Cartier 13 Via Monte Napoleone 16/A Casadei 14 Via Sant’Andrea, 1 Chanel 15 Via Sant’Andrea, 10/A Chanel Beauty 16 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 14 Chopard 17 Via della Spiga, 14 Dior 18 Via Monte Napoleone, 12 Dolce&Gabbana Womenswear Store 19 Via della Spiga, 2 Dolce&Gabbana Womenswear Store 20 Via Monte Napoleone, 4 Dolce&Gabbana Womenswear, Menswear and Kids Store 21 Corso Venezia, 7 Dolce&Gabbana Menswear and Tailoring 22 Corso Venezia, 15 Dolce&Gabbana - Shoes Via della Spiga, 1 23 Dr. Vranjes (out of map) Via Fiori Chiari, 24 Emilio Pucci 24 Via Monte Napoleone, 27

Ermenegildo Zegna 25 Via Monte Napoleone, 27/E Escada 26 Corso Matteotti, 22 Etro 27 Via Monte Napoleone, 5 Etro - Home (out of map) Via Pontaccio, 17 corner Vicolo Fiori Faliero Sarti (out of map) Via Solferino, 11 Fay 28 Via della Spiga, 15 Fendi 29 Via Monte Napoleone, 3 Gianfranco Lotti 30 Via Monte Napoleone, 27  Giorgio Armani 31 Via Sant’Andrea, 9 Giorgio Armani Accessories 32 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Giorgio Armani - Casa (out of map) Corso Venezia, 14 Giuseppe Zanotti Design Women 33 Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Giuseppe Zanotti Design Men 34 Via Monte Napoleone, 22 Givenchy 35 Via Sant’Andrea, 11 Gucci 36 Via Monte Napoleone, 5-7 Gucci 37 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Hermès 38 Via Monte Napoleone, 12  Hogan 39 Via Monte Napoleone, 5  Ireri 40 Galleria Passerella, 1 Isaia 41 Via Pietro Verri, 8 Iwc Schaffhausen 42 Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Jaeger LeCoultre 43 Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Jil Sander 44 Via Verri, 6  Jil Sander 45 Via Sant’Andrea, 16 Jimmy Choo 46 Via Sant’Andrea, 1/A JUST Cavalli (out of map) Via Vincenzo Capelli, 4 La Perla 47 Via Monte Napoleone, 14 La Perla (out of map) Corso Vercelli, 35 La Rinascente 48 Piazza Duomo

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Lanvin 49 Via della Spiga, 25 Loewe 50 Via Monte Napoleone, 21   Louis Vuitton 51 Via Monte Napoleone, 2 Louis Vuitton 52 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Maison Margiela 53 Via Sant’Andrea, 5 Maison Margiela 54 Via della Spiga, 46 Malo 55 Via Monte Napoleone, 18   Marni 56 Via Monte Napoleone, 12 Max Mara (out of map) Corso XXII Marzo, 8 Max Mara 57 Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 4 corner Piazza del Liberty Max Mara 58 Via Victor Hugo, corner Via Orefici, 1 Max Mara (out of map) Corso Genova, 16 Max Mara (out of map) Via Cuneo, 3 Michael Kors 59 Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 2 corner Via Galleria San Carlo Michael Kors 60 Via della Spiga, 8 Missoni 61 Via Sant’Andrea corner Via Bagutta Miu Miu 62 Via Sant’Andrea, 21 Moncler 63 Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Moncler 64 Via della Spiga, 7 Montblanc 65 Via Monte Napoleone, 27/B Montblanc (out of map) Corso Vercelli, 1 Montblanc 66 Galleria Vittoria Emanuele II, 92 Moschino 67 Via Sant’Andrea, 25 Moschino (out of map) Via Capelli, 1 Officine Panerai 68 Via Monte Napoleone, 1 Omega 69 Via Monte Napoleone, 9 Patrizia Pepe 70 Via Manzoni, 38 Peuterey 71 Via della Spiga, 6 Pisa Orologeria - Flagship Store 72 Via Pietro Verri, 7

Pisa Orologeria - Boutique Hublot 72 Via Pietro Verri, 7 Pisa Orologeria - Boutique A. Lange & Sohne 72 Via Pietro Verri, 7 Pisa Orologeria - Boutique Patek Philippe 73 Via Pietro Verri, 9 Pisa Orologeria - Boutique Vacheron Constantin 73 Via Pietro Verri, 9 Pomellato 74 Via Monte Napoleone, 17 Pomellato 75 Via San Pietro all’Orto, 17 Prada 76 Via della Spiga, 18 Prada - Womenswear Store 77 Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Prada - Womenswear Store 78 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 63-65 Prada - Menswear Store 79 Via Monte Napoleone, 6  Prada - Menswear Store 80 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, 62 Ralph Lauren (out of map) Palazzo Ralph Lauren, Private Club Via San Barnaba, 27 Richard Ginori (out of map) Piazza San Marco, 3 Roberto Cavalli 81 Via Monte Napoleone, 6/A Rolex Boutique - Pisa Orologeria 82 Via Monte Napoleone, 24 Saint Laurent 83 Via Monte Napoleone, 8 Salvatore Ferragamo Womenswear Store 84 Via Monte Napoleone, 3  Salvatore Ferragamo Menswear Store 85 Via Monte Napoleone, 20/4 Sergio Rossi 86 Via Monte Napoleone, 27 Stefano Ricci 87 Via Gesù, 3 Stella McCartney 88 Via Santo Spirito, 3 Stuart Weitzman 89 Via Sant’Andrea, 10 Tiffany & Co. 90 Via della Spiga, 19/A Tiffany & Co. 91 Piazza del Duomo corner Via Ugo Foscolo, 1 Tod’s 92 Via Monte Napoleone, 13 Tod’s 93 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II


SHOPPING GUIDE

Tom Ford 94 Via Verri, 3 Tory Burch 95 Via della Spiga, 7 Van Cleef & Arpels 96 Via Monte Napoleone, 10 Valentino 97 Via Monte Napoleone, 20 Versace 98 Via Monte Napoleone, 11 Versace 99 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II 33/35 Versace - Home 100 Via Borgospesso, 15/A Vhernier 101 Via Monte Napoleone, 21

VENEZIA

Audemars Piguet 1 Piazza San Marco, 18 Balenciaga 2 Calle Vallaresso, 1310 Boggi 3 San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo) Bottega Veneta 4 Salizada San Moisè, 1473 San Marco Bulgari 5 Sestiere di San Marco 1494-1497 Burberry 6 Calle Larga XXII marzo, 2308 Cartier 7 Calle San Moisè, 1474.1475 Chanel 8 Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2070 Chanel 9 Sestiere di S. Marco, 1254/A-1300 Chopard 10 Fondaco dei Tedeschi Dior 11 Piazza San Marco, 1255 Calle Larga de l’Ascension Dolce&Gabbana 12 San Marco, 2188 Calle Larga XXII Marzo Dr. Vranjes 13 Calle Frezzeria, 1231 Emporio Armani 14 Fondaco dei Tedeschi Ermanno Scervino 15 San Marco, 1314 Calle Vallaresso Ermenegildo Zegna 16 Bocca di Piazza, 1241, San Marco Etro 17 Calle Vallaresso, 1340 Fendi 18 San Marco (Aria Frezzaria), 1582 Gianfranco Lotti 19 San Marco Ascensione, 1301 Giorgio Armani 20 Calle Larga XXII marzo, 2282 Gucci 21 Calle XXII Marzo, 2102

Gucci 22 Piazza San Marco, 258 Hermès 23 San Marco, 1292 Iwc Schaffhausen 24 Fondaco dei Tedeschi Jaeger LeCoultre 25 Fondaco dei Tedeschi Jimmy Choo 26 San Marco, 1289 La Perla 27 Campo San Salvador, 4828 Louis Vuitton 28 San Marco, 1345 Malo 29 Calle delle Ostreghe, 2359 Max Mara 30 San Marco 5033 Max Mara 31 San Marco Merceria Orologio, 268-269-26 Michael Kors 32 Fondaco dei Tedeschi Missoni 33 Calle Vallaresso, 1318/A  Miu Miu 34 Piazza San Marco, 1471 Moncler 35 Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2088 Officine Panerai 36 Piazza San Marco 47 Omega 37 Salizada S. Moise, 1291 Pomellato 38 Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2031 Prada 39 Salizada San Moisè, 1464/1468 Rolex Boutique Salvadori 40 Piazza San Marco, 44 Saint Laurent 41 San Marco, 1302 Saint Laurent 42 Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2217 Salvadori 43 Piazza San Marco, 67 Salvatore Ferragamo 44 Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2098 T Fondaco dei Tedeschi 45 Calle del Fontego dei Tedeschi Ponte di Rialto Tiffany & Co. 46 Calle Vallaresso, 1336/A Tod’s 47 Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2251 San Marco Valentino 48 Fondaco dei Tedeschi Versace 49 San Marco, Campo S. Moisè, 1462 Vhernier 50 San Marco, Calle Vallaresso, 1317

FIRENZE

Angela Caputi - Giuggiù 1 Borgo SS Apostoli, 44/46 Angela Caputi - Giuggiù (out of map) Via S. Spirito, 58r Audemars Piguet 2 Ponte Vecchio, 16 Balenciaga 3 Piazza Santa Trinita, 1r Boggi 4 Via della Vigna Nuova, 27 Boss Store 5 Via Por Santa Maria, 70-72r Bottega Veneta 6 Via degli Strozzi, 6 Bulgari 7 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 56r Burberry 8 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 29r Cartier 9 Via degli Strozzi 36/r Casadei 10 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 74r Cassetti Orologeria Gioielleria 11 Ponte Vecchio, 54r Cassetti Boutique IWC Cartier 12 Ponte Vecchio, 33r Cassetti Vacheron Constantin 13 Ponte Vecchio, 52r Chanel 14 Piazza della Signoria, 10 Chanel Beauty 15 Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 49 Chopard 16 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 30-32r Dior 17 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 15r Dolce&Gabbana 18 Via degli Strozzi, 12-18r Dolce&Gabbana - Kids Store 19 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 18r Dr Vranjes (out of map) Via San Gallo, 63r Dr Vranjes 20 Via della Spada, 9r Dr Vranjes (out of map) Borgo La Croce, 44r Emilio Pucci 21 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 20-22r Emporio Armani 22 Via Roma, 14r Enrico Verità 23 Via de’ Calzaiuoli, 122-124r Ermanno Scervino 24 Via degli Strozzi, 32r Ermenegildo Zegna 25 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 3r Etro 25 Palazzo Rucellai Via della Vigna Nuova, 50r F.lli Piccini 27 Ponte Vecchio, 21-23r

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Faliero Sarti 28 Via della Spada, 24r Fani Gioielli 29 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 72r Fendi 30 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 40r Gianfranco Lotti 31 Via de’ Tornabuoni 59r Giorgio Armani 32 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 83r Gucci 33 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 73-81r Gucci 34 Via Roma, 32r Gucci Garden 35 Piazza della Signoria, 10 Hermès 36 Piazza degli Antinori, 6r Hogan 37 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 97r Ireri 38 Via Gondi 4/6r La Perla 39 Via degli Strozzi, 24r La Rinascente 40 Piazza della Repubblica Loro Piana 41 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 34-36r Louis Vuitton 42 Piazza degli Strozzi, 1 LuisaViaRoma 43 Via Roma, 19-21r Marni 44 Via Roma, 4r Max Mara 45 Via de’ Pecori, 23r Max Mara 46 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 66, 68, 70r Michael Kors 47 Piazza della Repubblica, 43 Missoni 48 Via Porta Rossa, 77-79r  Miu Miu 49 Via Roma, 8r Moncler 50 Via degli Strozzi, 3 Montblanc 51 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 63r Officine Panerai 52 Piazza San Giovanni, 14r Omega 53 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 25r Patrizia Pepe 54 Piazza San Giovanni, 12r Patrizia Pepe 55 Via degli Strozzi, 13 Pomellato 56 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 89-91r Prada 57 Via Roma, 27r Prada 58 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 53-67r Richard Ginori 59 Via dei Rondinelli, 17r


SHOPPING GUIDE

Rolex Boutique - Cassetti 60 Ponte Vecchio, 29r Saint Laurent 61 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 43-45 Salvatore Ferragamo 62 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 4-14r Stefano Ricci 63 Palazzo Tornabuoni Via de’ Pescioni, 1 Stella Mc Cartney 64 Via dei Tosinghi,52r Tiffany&Co 65 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 37r Tod’s 66 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 60r Valentino 67 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 23 Versace 68 Via de’ Tornabuoni, 17 Rolex Boutique - Salvini (out of map) Forte dei Marmi Via Carducci, 1/A Sergio Capone Gioielli (out of map) Forte dei Marmi Piazza G. Marconi, 3/C

ROMA

Angela Caputi - Giuggiù 1 Via delle Carrozze, 67 Audemars Piguet 2 P.zza San Lorenzo in Lucina, 20 Balenciaga 3 Via Borgognona, 7/E Blumarine 4 Via Borgognona, 31 Boggi 5 Via del Babuino, 20 Boss Store 6 Via Frattina, 136-137 Boss - Womenswear Store 7 Via Frattina, 138-139 Bottega Veneta 8 P.zza San Lorenzo in Lucina, 9-13 Brioni 9 Via dei Condotti, 21/A Bulgari 10 Via dei Condotti, 10 Cartier 11 Via dei Condotti, 83 Casadei 12 P.zza San Lorenzo in Lucina, 40/A Chanel 13 Via del Babuino, 98 Chopard 14 Via del Babuino, 22 Diego Cataldi (out of map) Via Cola di Rienzo, 105 Diego Cataldi (out of map) Viale Europa 114 Dior 15 Via dei Condotti, 1-5 Dior - Menswear Store 16 Piazza di Spagna, 70-71 Dolce&Gabbana - Womenswear, Menswear and Kids Store 17 Via dei Condotti, 49-51

Dolce&Gabbana - Boutique 18 Piazza di Spagna, 94-95-96 Dr. Vranjes 19 Via Vittoria, 63 Emilio Pucci 20 Piazza di Spagna, 87 Emporio Armani 21 Via del Babuino, 140 Emporio Armani Kids Store 22 Via Frattina, 34/A Ermanno Scervino 23 Via del Babuino, 97 Ermenegildo Zegna 24 Via dei Condotti, 58 Escada 25 Piazza di Spagna, 7-8 Etro 26 Via del Babuino, 102 Faliero Sarti 27 Via Vittoria, 62 Fay 28 Via Fontanella Borghese, 56/C Fendi 29 Palazzo Fendi Largo Goldoni, 420 Gianfranco Lotti 30 Via dei Condotti, 24 Gente - Womenswear Store 31 Via del Babuino, 77 Gente - Womenswear Store 32 Via del Babuino, 81 Gente - Menswear Store 33 Via del Babuino, 185 Gente - Womenswear Store 34 Via Frattina, 93 Gente - Womenswear Store (out of map) Via Cola di Rienzo, 277 Gente - Womenswear Store (out of map) Via di Vigna Stelluti, 177 Gente - Menswear and Womenswear Store (out of map) Viale Europa, 91 Giorgio Armani 35 Via dei Condotti, 77 Giuseppe Zanotti Design 36 Piazza di Spagna, 33 Givenchy 37 Via del Babuino, 195 Gucci 38 Via dei Condotti, 8 Gucci 39 Via Borgognona, 7/D Harry Winston 40 Via dei Condotti 61/A Hausmann & Co. 41 Via del Corso, 406 Hausmann & Co. Boutique Patek Philippe 42 Via dei Condotti, 28 Hausmann & Co. 43 Via del Babuino, 63 Hermès 44 Via Condotti, 23/A

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Hermès 45 Via Bocca di Leone, 23-27 Hogan 46 Via del Babuino, 110 Isaia 47 Via Bocca di Leone, 68 Iwc Schaffhausen 48 Piazza di Spagna, 28 Jaeger Lecoultre 49 Piazza di Spagna, 92 Jimmy Choo 50 Via dei Condotti, 68/A La Perla 51 Via Bocca di Leone, 28 La Rinascente 52 Via del Tritone La Rinascente (out of map) Piazza Fiume Loewe 53 Piazza di Spagna, 88 Louis Vuitton 54 Via dei Condotti, 13 Louis Vuitton 55 Piazza di San Lorenzo in Lucina, 41 Maison Margiela 56 Via del Babuino, 49 Malo 57 Via Belsiana, 68   Marni 58 Via del Babuino, 75 Max Mara (out of map) Via Cola di Rienzo, 275 Max Mara 59 Via dei Condotti, 17-18-18/A Max Mara 60 Via Frattina, 28 Michael Kors 61 Via dei Condotti, 36 Michael Kors (out of map) Via Cola di Rienzo, 235-239 Missoni 62 Piazza di Spagna, 78 Miu Miu 63 Via del Babuino, 91 Moncler 64 Piazza di Spagna, 77 Montblanc 65 Via Condotti, 70 Moschino 66 Via del Babuino, 156 Officine Panerai 67 Via del Babuino, 130 Omega 68 Via dei Condotti, 38-40 Patrizia Pepe 69 Via Frattina, 44 Peuterey 70 Via Borgognona, 4/A corner Via Belsiana, 69 Pomellato 71 P.zza San Lorenzo in Lucina, 38 Prada Womenswear Store 72 Via dei Condotti, 92  Prada Menswear Store 73 Via dei Condotti, 88/90 

Ralph Lauren 74 Via del Corso, 155-157 Roberto Coin 75 Via del Babuino, 73 Rolex Boutique Hausmann & Co. 76 Via dei Condotti, 35 Saint Laurent 77 Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina, 17 Salvatore Ferragamo Womenswear Store 78 Via dei Condotti, 73/74 Salvatore Ferragamo Menswear Store 79 Via dei Condotti, 65 Sergio Rossi 80 Via dei Condotti, 22 Stella McCartney 81 Via Borgognona, 6 Stuart Weitzman 82 Via dei Condotti, 27 Tiffany & Co. 83 Via dei Condotti, 55 Tiffany & Co. 84 Via del Babuino, 118 Tiffany & Co. (out of map) Via Cola di Rienzo, 173 Tod’s 85 Via dei Condotti, 53/A Tod’s 86 Via Fontanella Borghese, 56/A-57 Tory Burch 87 Via del Babuino, 36/37 Valentino 88 Piazza di Spagna, 38 Van Cleef & Arpels 89 Via dei Condotti 15 Versace 90 Piazza di Spagna, 12 Vhernier 91 Via del Babuino, 51/A Zannetti 92 Via di Monte d’Oro, 23/A

OUTLET Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet Via Marco Polo, 1 30020 Noventa di Piave (VE) Barberino Designer Outlet Via Meucci 50031 Barberino di Mugello (FI) Castel Romano Designer Outlet Via Ponte di Piscina Cupa, 64 00128 Castel Romano (RM) Serravalle Designer Outlet Via della Moda, 1 15069 Serravalle Scrivia (AL) The Mall Firenze Via Europa, 8 50066 Leccio Reggello (FI) The Mall Sanremo Via Armea, 43 -18038 Sanremo (IM)


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