G OLDFOIL Sharing the work of
Ralf ERLINGER
Max Zara Sterck
Pareidolia
SEOUL FASHION WEEK
OCT31
NOT KNOWING GREEDILOUS
MET GALA 2021 Looking Back At The Best Dressed Celebrities Of Our Time
AYALA NAPHTALI
ISSUE 007 MAY 2021
Our Mission
At GoldFoil magazine we work with new and emerging talent within the fashion industry to bring you incredible content, interesting interviews, different points of view, and much more. We believe that we are always able to do better, to expand our horizons, to learn and experience more.
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First of all, I would like to thank every single one of you - the readers, and second - thank you to everyone who submitted your work and helped make this issue a reality. A lot of the work unavailable in this digital and printed magazine is available on our website and will be published all across our social media. When I sat down thinking about what the topic of this month’ issue should be I was kind of struck by this inevitable feeling in my gutt, knowing that I would have a tough time figuring it out on my own. In fact, so often with the constant changes in our surroundings, I come up with a title for the next issue, and by the time it is ready to go live, I have to change it as it becomes irrelevant. I am hoping that the work of the creators and designers you will find in this issue helps you figure it out for yourself, let the exploration guide your imagination and help you through the last weeks of the pandemic. In this issue we have featured designers from Seoul Fashion Week - a fashion stage growing by the season to become one of the top in the world alongside London, Paris, Milan, and New York; an incredible jewellery designer from New York, Max Zara Sterck - a young fashion designer based in London, and Angelo Castro from Uruguay with his inspiring story worth a read. While the Met Gala is being delayed until the 18th of September, there is nothing better than reminiscing on some of the best outfits that ever graced the red carpet fundraising event.
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Table of
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NOT KNOWING
MET GALA
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AYALA NAPHTALI
MAX ZARA STER-
RALF ERLINGER OCT31
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GREEDILOUS
ANGELO CASTRO KUPPERPHOTO
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''STALEMATE''
NOT KNOWING 8
"STALEMATE" Under the slogan “STALEMATE,” which means that the black and white have been stalled and no longer moved, the overall design has solved the concerns of the current era’s deadlock. Starting with Cozy mood, we expressed the current era and message of hope for the future through the mood change of Chunky & Maxi silhouette.
Not Knowing reinterprets the meaning of sports clothes and looks at the way they fit the modern city lifestyle of their audience. By reconstructing well known silhouettes, and using different materials and textures, the brand is able to create a more luxurious yet comfortable wear. Not Knowing delivers a futuristic silhouette through their checker-patterned outerwear, oversized leather trousers, and asymmetrical blouses.
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NOT KNOWING
''STALEMATE''
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NOT KNOWING
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BEST
MET GALA
Outfits
of all time
Written by Jessica Janes From Versace gowns to Moschino, Prada, and Marc Jacobs, here are some of our favourite looks from the Met Gala over the years, that you will not want to forget.
Naomi Campbell in Versace (1995) Naomi Campbell simply stunned viewers and paparazzi in a radiant crystal encrusted Versace gown, a Gianni Versace glittering creation.
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Kate Moss wearing Marc Jacobs(2009) Very few outfits can top a Marc Jacobs dress, Kate wore a burnished metallic mini dress and matching headwrap to finish off the look.
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Katy Perry in Moschino (2019) Katy Perry is known for her outrageous outfits, but this one in particular tops them all. The star wore a built in corset with hidden battery packs, to create an illuminated chandelier, making her the brightest at the Gala.
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Kylie And Kendall wearing Versace (2019) The famous sisters, well known for featuring in Keeping Up With The Kardashians, and being social media icons. Simply mastered feather trimmed Versace gowns, in bright clashing hues.
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Cher in Bob Mackie (1974) It seems Cher set a trend when it came to crystalline dresses, the famous star wore a risque custom feather trim gown by Bob Mackie, inevitably kickstarting the trend of the Met’s ‘naked dress’.
Lupita Nyong’o in Prada (2014) It seems Lupita took a train back in time and recreated the flapper dress, and feather trim theme, with this chic look. She sported an emerald mesh dress with a flapper twist, decorated with crystals, and paired with matching shoes and headband.
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Rihanna In Guo Pei (2015) We definitely could not forget about RiRi’s iconic look. The star wore a one of a kind gown, with a 16 foot train, weighing in at 25kg, the look instantly became one of the best Met Gala outfits of all time.
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AYALA NAPHTALI @ayalanaphtali
Sterling silver with sustainable dyed coconut shells Ayala is a jewellery designer based in New York. She draws inspiration from ancient alphanumeric systems, contemporary architecture and her own personal cultural history. She is intrigued by balance and proportion, and she creates work with elegance and minimal, bold forms, precious metals and alternative materials.
Photography: Debra Adelson
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Model: Damian Bryan Jr @let_itt_happen Photography: Seamus Tynan @seamoosee_
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Model: @missbukley
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Clothing: Selma Karaca @selmakaracaatelier
Photography: Seamus Tynan @seamoosee_
Models: Domanique Berry @poutprincess Ayala Naphtali @ayalanaphtali
Ayala allows the material to become the inspiration behind the jewellery piece she is designing. She looks at the use of material, colour, texture and versatility as a source of ideas. Her contemporary jewellery have strong attention to detail, with precision and focus on creating balanced and unified designs, which provides for rich and challenging conversations. Ayala uses coconut shells, which are dyed and carved, to achieve rich colour and texture; and she uses forging, fabricating, and casting to create jewellery with dimensionality and volume.
Photography: Debra Adelson
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OUR INTERVIEW WITH
MAX ZARA STERCK
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PAREIDOLIA : the tendency to perceive a specific, often meaningful image in a random or ambiguous visual pattern The scientific explanation for some people is pareidolia, or the human ability to see shapes or make pictures out of randomness.
We find Max Zara at home busy working on multiple projects. She is an incredible young designer from the Netherlands who works between the Netherlands and London. She presented her second collection Pareidolia, which she revealed is very successful and it has allowed her to look past creating performance costumes and instead create everyday clothes which empower women. To our question if she grew up in a creative environment, she responded that both of her parents are artists, and their home was always filled with art, and some of her relatives were professors. Which all makes sense, looking at Max’s approach to clothes making - it is highly observational. She deals with a lot of difficult 3D concepts, and she notes that nowadays, many designers tend to work mostly in 2D forgetting the dimensionality of garments.
ture and energy shift which models had at her most recent collection. The moment they put the clothes she had designed on, they would lift their chins up, push their shoulders back, and radiate confidence. She was always into making clothes. Growing up she used to collect leaves, and dying flowers into a herbarius, and that helped her shape her vision over the years. Her most recent collection - Pareidolia takes inspiration from those childhood memories, she tells us, oftentimes she would see inanimate objects take the shape of dresses or tops before her eyes.
Pareidolia is the tendency for incorrect perception of a stimulus as an object, pattern or meaning known to the observer. For example, seeing objects or faces in clouds. Max uses abstract lines and shapes to gather She then let us know that she used to be a gymnast. inspiration and works intuitively constructing the Due to an injury she had to stop, however, this al- garments, instead of starting off with a pattern, she lowed her to focus on fashion design and find her allows the design to naturally evolve and take shape, true calling. And even nowadays she has this active this way she reinvents the traditional design process. approach, she would often times work with a live model where they would wear the basic fabric and Max would have to make conscious decisions about cutting and draping the fabric to accentuate the areas where fabrics move and this way build volume and mimic natural movement. Her favourite thing, and what made her start her own brand in the first place was that idea of empowerment, she loves seeing how her garments help women feel more comfortable. Max shared that she loved seeing the pos-
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Sterck loves playing with shapes and silhouettes, and this is no surprise, her work is inspired by movement, but also looks very simple. She revealed the piece which best portrayed her brand was a long very simple-looking dress, which had a very technical aspect to it. While it might look plain, she told us that for her skills at the time it was definitely biting more than she could chew, she still managed to complete it, despite the complexities, and those experiences helped shape her brand identity. We wanted a glimpse into the spirit which embodies the Max Zara Sterck brand, and she gave us Nery Oxman as an example. An American-Israeli designer and professor at MIT, she is known for her art and architecture that combine design, biology, computing, and materials engineering. Another perfect example was Emma Watson - not surprising considering her inspiration are strong, powerful women, changing the world, and Watson is the perfect embodiment - a womens’ rights activist, an actress, and one of the most influential people in the world. Max is a busy young designer, she is currently developing a new type of fabric which she will use exclusively for her next collection, she is working on show costumes, a collaboration which she is yet to reveal, we are really excited to see her progress in the upcoming months as the world slowly returns back to normal.
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MAX ZARA STERCK Photographer: Barrie Hullegie @barrie_hullegie Art director: Jordy Huinder @jordyhuinder Hair and Makeup: Laura Yard @laurayard Model: Laura Beuger @lauraquirine The Movement Models @themovementmodels
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RALF ERLINGER
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Photographer: Ralf Erlinger @ralferlinger
Model: Fraeulein Freud @fraeulein.freud
Location and Style: @store_since1977
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Photographer: Ralf Erlinger @ralferlinger
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Model: Fraeulein Freud @fraeulein.freud
Location and Style: @store_since1977
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Photographer: Ralf Erlinger @ralferlinger
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Model: Fraeulein Freud @fraeulein.freud
Location and Style: @store_since1977
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OCT31
''HOLD MY EYES'' AW21
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OCT31 ''HOLD MY EYES''
OCT31 is a womenswear fashion brand based in South Korea. The designer - Kim Sun Il, expresses his vision through the brands’ identity, and the main concept of OCT31 is modernising the concepts of traditional fashion and delivering new classic values to the runway of Seoul.
In 2016 Kim Sun Il was the director of the Hanyang University’s fashion show, taking responsibilities from planning of the show, through casting, music, composition, and the actual event itself. He participated in the BTS’ production of the stage costumes for their world tour, and all these experiences allowed him to launch his brand - OCT31. OCT31’s Autumn/Winter collection was inspired by the film ‘’Carol’’. The movie is set in New York during the early 1950s, and tells the love story of two women beyond their status and age in an era when homosexuality was socially prohibited. Inspired by the eyes and emotions of the two women looking at each other, the atmosphere around them, and the clothing style of the 50s, OCT31 unfolds this collection under the name ‘’Hold My Eyes’’. Bold silhouettes, strong masculine shapes, and monochromatic colours shape the collection, with a few tailored pieces - a two piece burgundy suit, and a long sleeves grey overcoat.
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ANGELO CASTRO Flirt '21
Photography: Mara Bernasconi
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Models: Acaoã Theophilo De Castro Mati Buriano
Angelo Castro
Flirt '21
Angelo Castro was born and raised in a small town in the coastal mountains of Venezuela. Due to the great economic and political challenges in the country he was forced to move to Montevideo, Uruguay, where he has been living and making work for the last 8 years. ‘’This beautiful country allowed me to study and start my way as a designer. ‘’ Thanks to his strong work ethics he was able to present two collections in Fashion Clash in 2018 and 2019. Today he tells us: ‘’I find myself in a new stage, launching a 3rd collection in times of a pandemic. A bit ironic but true, the pandemic helped me rethink my vision as a designer. Flirt '21 is my new timeless collection. Conceptually I am inspired by emotional connections and the meaning of things.’’ In his new collection Angelo opens a conversation about relationships between objects, he says that nothing is completely detached from its surroundings, everything has a relative connection to something else, be it a form, a being, an emotion, or an instinct. There are conscious or unconscious connections. Flirt connects me with the energy of my ancestors and what I project in my future. For this collection I worked with disused textiles from factories closed in times of pandemic. I also gave a new meaning to all the waste from my previous collections. Starting from a place of rethinking and transformation of menswear. The construction and philosophy of my garments are aimed at anyone who needs to communicate and support the environment. I work with local labor and craftsmanship.
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Angelo Castro @angelocastror Photography: Mara Bernasconi @marabernasconi_jpeg Visual design: @ tercer.eye Models: Acaoã Theophilo De Castro @acaoatcastro Mati Buriano @mxtiasb MUA: Avant Garde Makeup @avant_makeup Josefina Stabile Mua @josefinas.mua
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KUPPERPHOTO
Alejandro Gomez
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Model: Martha Borovets @martinkulturel Makeup Artist: Kariana Martinez @karianamua Styling: Revolver Vintage @revolver.mx
Jewellery: Collectivo Creativo de Moda @collectivocreativodemoda Assistant: Daniel @itsdanielextra
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Model: Martha Borovets @martinkulturel
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Makeup Artist: Kariana Martinez @karianamua
Styling: Angel Grave @angelgrave_official
Assistant: Daniel @itsdanielextra
Model: Martha Borovets @martinkulturel Makeup Artist: Kariana Martinez @karianamua Styling: Revolver Vintage @revolver.mx Jewellery: Collectivo Creativo de Moda @collectivocreativodemoda Assistant: Daniel @itsdanielextra
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KUPPERPHOTO
Alejandro Gomez
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Max Zara Sterck
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