GoldFoil Magazine - ISSUE 12 - TURNING ONE by GOLDFOIL MAGAZINE

GOLDFOIL Reflecting on ARTIST OF THE MONTH

1 Cecilia Lehar

London Fashion Week. The designers on our watchlist

Drawing Cabaret Couture and Liz Marine Shin

GOLDFOIL is turning this MONTH

ISSUE 12

OCT 2021

Our Mission

At GoldFoil magazine we work with new and emerging talent within the fashion industry to bring you incredible content, interesting interviews, different points of view, and much more. We believe that we are always able to do better, to expand our horizons, to learn and experience more. 3

MAX ZARA STERCK

LULA LAORA 4

MUNN

CHLOE BAINES

Editor notes We made it! It has officially been an entire year since we started working on this project. Saying we, it started as the dream of one person locked up during a pandemic with nothing else to do. I heard this often from friends and people that I got to know over the years '' But I did not know you had started a magazine '' So, I guess this is my personal invitation where I share with you all the experiences and events which led me to starting this project in the first place and how it all came to be. Growing up I used to write for a local newspaper, here and there, I mean, I was never really good with consistency back in the day, nothing like this project nowadays which I managed to keep afloat for over a year. But this is where my passion for writing and journalism and general information processing and storytelling began. Over the years I got the opportunity to design and assist designers, working for different brands across the city which provided me with enough experience to be able to start GoldFoil. Starting a magazine wasn't something I wasn't already prepared to do but if I was to say that it became bigger than I thought it was going to and it definitely outgrew me would be an understatement. You would have probably seen the names of a few different talented journalists who helped pave the way and got us to the point of celebrating our first year, so it never was a one person project, and in general, this has always been a collaboration project. For our October issue celebrating our first year we work with the talented photographer Argyrios and the model Renata to deliver this really fun editorial. Thanks to Harri Hotel we were able to turn this photoshoot into a reality. This month we are looking at London Fashion Week which marks the opening of the fashion week Spring/Summer season across the globe, and for the first time in nearly two years we touched near some sort of a normality. I hope you enjoy this editorial. Deyvid Dimitrov Editor

CONTENTS: 6

28 34

48 54

Max Zara Sterck Editorial

Argyrios Raftopoulos, Renata Kovalcuk, The Hari Hotel, Deyvid Dimitrov

HERSIA London MUNN Lula Laora Drawing Cabaret Couture Cecilia Lehar - interview N Palmer

MAX ZARA STERCK Max Zara Sterck is a luxury womenswear label based between London and Amsterdam. After graduating in 2015 in Fashion Design from Artez University in Arnhem, The Netherlands, she went on to gain international experience at brands such as J.W. Anderson, La Perla and Alexander McQueen. It is amazing to think that just about 6 months ago I spoke with Max Zara Sterck about her AW21 collection at London Fashion Week, and how she has embarked on this incredible journey. This Summer she designed costumes for Eurovision, and to help cement her growth, she presented her new SS22 collection titled ‘’She Is Your Second Skin’’.

Max Zara gives her devoted attention and appreciation to human form as the purest expression of oneself. She uses the body as the leading element of all creation, as the tangible expression of your personal energy. As the connection between your inner world and the outer world.

In her designing process, she observes the The Amsterdam/London based designer ex- body to discover shapes. She intuitively listens plores a very modern dilemma of how we ex- to the fabric and its connection to the body. press human sensuality and ‘touch’ in the dig- Naturally, lines appear and the unexpected ital age. Max Zara Sterck created the poem evolves. Body following, body flowing. ’She Is Your Second Skin’ with Olivia Atkins, Max Zara is as always led first by the fabric This season Max Zara has collaborated with and how it falls on the body. This is an invita- Paris-based Textile developer iNDUO to detion to explore your body, your emotions, and velop an environment friendly fabric, which responds well to movement reflecting the dyyour energy. namic lifestyle of the wearer. With iNDUO's Through her designs she highlights the sense stain and sweat resistant innovation, they have of touch. Garments need to be worn, handled, together achieved GOTS certification for an felt and treated like a second skin. Max Zara organic black and white cotton fabric. These sees garments as a natural extension of the fabrics are used for durability, their high qualbody, for movement and expression. Creating ity and responsible production and are the clothes to empower the woman within and that backbone of the collection complemented with follow the lines of the endless diversity of body some other natural fabrics such as cotton silk and wool. forms.

Dancers and movement are central to Max Zara practice and are the start and end of the process and the garment feels and how it moves is as important as how it looks. Showing the beauty of freedom and the second skin.

MAX ZARA STERCK

FILM DIRECTION/Max Zara Sterck DESIGNER/ Max Zara Sterck COMPONIST/Edmund Shaw Poem/ Olivia Atkins CINEMATOGRAPHER/Sigi van ‘t Schip LIGHT ASSISTANT/ Hein van den Heuvel CHOREOGRAPHER/ Jurrien Schobben FILMEDITOR/ Nikki Gorissen BEAUTY TEAM Alexandra Borcila & ASSISTANT/ Minou Mijers Represented by NCL Representation Sophie Wortelboer & ASSISTANTS/ Kato Fierkens, Iljitsj Opatja, Kris van Laerhoven Represented by House of Orange Agency DANCER 1 Yulanne de Groot DANCER 2 Alexis Geddes DANCER 3 Angelica Villalon DANCER 4 Kim van der Put DANCER 5 Demi Verheezen DRESSER 1 Marieke van de Ven DRESSER 2 Josephine Goverts HANDYMAN Hein van den Heuvel PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTOGRAPHY/Shari Ruzzi MAUH/Lili Galvan MAUH ASSISTANT/Emma Catry MODEL/ Martine Thoele

Argyrios Raftopoulos

Renata Kovalcuk

Photographer:

Argyrios Raftopoulos @argyriosblackandwhite

Model:

Renata Kovalcuk @rena_kova

Location:

The Hari Hotel @ theharilondon

Producer:

Deyvid Dimitrov @davidoffsal

hersialondon.co.uk

HERSIA LONDON

Hersia, Like a Godsent gift, is a London-based natural skincare brand, playing with Mythology and bringing Ancient recipes back to life. All of their products are vegan, organic, carefully selected and against animal testing.

The Dawn Of Aurora Day Face Cream A hydration boost day cream with 50% pure Aloe Vera gel within a moisturizing cream. vitamin E and Grapeseed oil help the skin to get all the hydration needed plus Vitamin A, Vitamin B1, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B3, Vitamin B5, B6, Vitamin E. Rich in linoleic acid and minerals (natural content of grapeseed oil). Rose Quartz soothes wrinkles and improves the skin's elasticity, giving your complexion a luminous glow. Rose Geranium and Rose Otto are anti-aging agents while the Saffron oil has antioxidant properties and is enriched with potassium, calcium , magnesium, vitamin A and vitamin C and many other volatile acids. £21.45

Luna , The Moon - Selene face-hair & décolleté oil

£20.78

Total restoring overnight oil. Just a few drops are enough to have an amazing aromatherapy experience that will uplift your senses and rejuvenate your skin. With its powerful antioxidant properties, Ylang Ylang oil can help to fight off the free radicals that are responsible for premature aging. Patchouli essential oil can also promote a smooth glowing complexion, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, blemishes, and skin imperfections. Grapeseed oil has Vitamin A, Vitamin B1, Vitamin B2, Vitamin B3, Vitamin B5, B6, Vitamin E, Rich in linoleic acid and minerals preventing agedness and free radicals and Lavender essential oil detoxifies the skin and reduce dryness because is packed with antioxidants that protect and nourish your skin. Evening primrose oil contains Vitamin A Vitamin B1 Vitamin B2, Vitamin B6 Vitamin E, Salicylic Acid.

hersialondon.co.uk

Munn was launched back in 2013 with the main objective being creating beautiful garments using non-conventional methods for garment-making, taking an unfamiliar approach that has not been done before to push out creativity. Munn presents their collection based on the philosophy of defamiliarisation. This season is inspired by Luca Gaudagnino’s films ‘’I am love’’ and ‘’A bigger splash’’ A few of the more prominent pieces of the collection include a top, dress, and a skirt made out of hotel towels and keyholders; a tweed set in pastel colours; hand-washed denim that expresses the shapes of clouds in the Spring sky full of sunlight, inspired by the movie ‘’A bigger splash’’; and wildflowers handcrafted with lace, chiffon and beads.

MUNN 26

LULA LAORA The Garden Walking on fresh and humid grass, eyes half-opened due to the dazzling sunrise. Inhaling deeply, absorbing the perfume of all the blossoming flowers.The SS22 collection “The Garden” transports the audience to a beautiful English garden, set at the end of the Victorian era, with cast iron ornaments, fences with climbing roses, green lawns and stone walkways. It’s a space made for day dreaming and exhales of letting go. It is where heart beats slow down, just to speed right up again. The same reaction one gets from a passionate caress or a loving glance. Excitement explodes with a pounding pulse. Joy and then sadness grip on, but also confusion and powerlessness. Then, much like the deep silence after fireworks, there is only peace. Relaxing, your mind slows down. “The Garden” is an unpredictable journey, full of contrasts, emotions and surprises. The snake illustrations planted throughout the collection represent fire, sexual tension and trickery. Embellished crosses represent earth and the sacredness of Nature. Said symbolism is found in the prints and/or appliqués throughout the SS collection. Design features brightly coloured fabrics with different weights and textures, creating bold contrasts. Moreover, the collection includes faux leather, light crepe, jersey, organza, cotton twill and denim. All fabric is sourced from the UK, and the denim is 100% recycled, and a part of the upcycled program. As such, select items are limited edition pieces. Historical references come from Regency to the Victorian era. Certain looks are constructed using an intricate lacing technique. Remaining true to the collection’s theme, vintage jewellery is used on all embellished garments.

Credits Styling: Lula Laura Velasco @lula_laura_velasco Casting: Nina Comer @ninasews Photographer: Kim Lang @kimlangstudio Videographer: Candice Lo @xcandicelox Video Assistant: Violette MUA: Daisy Moore @daisymooremakeup Hair Stylist: Jenny Green @jennifer_misanthropez_looks Collaborations Shoes: Koi Footwear @koifootwear Hats: Bernstock Speirs @bernstockspeirs Set design: Kiara Gourlay @kiaragourlay Models: Danni @dannisp00ner Ruby represented by Phoenix @phoenixmodelmanagement Estelle @estellethegazelle Ashley @a_c_tamuno Polina @babyimbored_ Moon @michaelmoon.vision Siu Hei @siuhei_dd

Drawing Cabaret Couture

Art Class & Production: Drawing Cabaret Couture @drawingcabaretcouture Designs: Liz Marine Shin @itslizmarine Set Design: Matthew Lawrence @mglawrence_ Photographer & Lighting: Matthew Lawrence @mglawrence_ Model & Mua: Janet Mayer @janetmayerofficial Location: Drawing Cabaret Couture Studio @dcc.studios

Drawing Cabaret Couture Drawing Cabret Couture was created by model and professional dancer Janet Mayer and artist & set designer Matthew Lawrence. Together they collaborate with some of the finest and up and coming designers and fashion creatives to bring their fabulous live drawing classes to your living room. Their concept has proven very successful especially during the pandemic and that is when it grew in popularity, as more and more creatives needed a sense of normality and a new inspiration. Recently they reopened their studio allowing a selected number of illustrators to attend an in-person live drawing session.

cial immersive event as Drawing Cabaret Couture, you will have the opportunity to meet many other creatives, as well as learn of designers and artists you might not have come across before, you will see your artistic skills improve and you will gain more clarity, and feel more relaxed and confident. After each class Matthew and Janet do an editorial photoshoot which is shared with their Patreon supporters, and we have the incredible honour to show some of their images, and the artworks some of the artists create on a monthly basis.

This month I joined in on an exciting class featuring the work of the talented young designer Liz Marine. She shares two of her outfits with us in this class and she tells us what her inspiration behind the work was. Exploring her designs through a 2 hour online drawing class, complimented by the spectacular set design by Matthew Lawrence, is an experience for any artist, so I am thrilled to be a part of it. The incredibly dynamic poses by The classes have already gained a huge global Janet Mayer help get your creative juices flowing, following of professional artists and illustrators and help tie everything together nicely. as well as those who simply just want to immerse themselves in this unique new drawing experience. Matthew designs and builds the most dynamic sets to accompany the designer featured that week, while Janet with her adrogynous poses and flexible movements brings the garments to life. All accompanied by a very carefully curated music playlist as well as a narrative promoting the designer and creatives involved.

When taking part in a two-hour art class online, you will immerse yourself into a fantasy world, letting go of preconceptions. You will have the opportunity to focus on colours, shapes and movement from the comfort of your home studio while taking inspiration from this incredible visual experience. By taking part in such a creative and so-

Liz Marine Shin Liz Marine Shin is a 2021 graduate in Fashion Print from Central Saint Martins. For this class she shared 2 of her looks, and she goes on to explain that she turns 23 this year yet people still perceive her as a 17 year old. She played with the irony of looking like a child even in her adult age and it resulted into the creation of these incredibly vibrant extremely oversized garments. Named ‘’Please don’t squeeze me’’ the collection plays with the idea of people wanting to touch you or squeeze you. During lockdown Liz Marine used her dreams as inspiration and she took her time relating them to childhood memories and even her mother and her significance, how she would dress her as a child, and how we as children do not worry about what we wear, and we cherish the old times.

Ambra @ambra_lolli Lollli

Betty Southerland

@besoart444

Mixed media 12x16in

Watercolour 16x12in

Cecilia Lehar @cecilialehar 29.7x21cm Gouache and ink

29.7x21cm Gouache and ink

Felicity Cormack @cormackfelicity

Watercolour and crayon 30x40cm

Isher Dhiman @isherdhiman Alert 1 Watercolour Alert 2 Watercolour

Jear @jean_warner_art Warner

Red Digital painting

Red Queen Digital painting

Loni Mills @lonstar

Creeps, Please! 42x29.7cm Ink, brush and watercolour

Outrageous 8.5x11in Mixed media on Bristol vellum

Creeps, Please! 42x29.7cm Ink, brush and watercolour

Loretta Tedeschi-Cuoco @art_ltc

Blooming Fabulous 11x8.5in Mixed media on Bristol vellum

Luis Hidalgo @luishidalgo

11x17in Digital Painting 11x17in Digital Painting

I dress for me A4 Digital Painting

Peyton Dixon @peytondixonart Squeeze me if you dare A4 Digital Painting

Susan@susan.tye Tye

Lady in red 29.7x21cm Watercolour and Acrylic ink

Red Puffer 29.7x21cm Watercolour and Acrylic ink

Sun Docherty @sundocarts

Distance 37x50.8cm Watercolour

Stop 37x50.8cm Watercolour

CECILIA LEHAR Cecilia Lehar is a talented fashion illustrator with many years of experience in the industry. Her distinct style reminds us of the old Hollywood glam of the 1920s and 1930s. Predominantly working with gouache and ink allows her to be spontaneous and to create these very naturally beautiful and fluid illustrations which look like magazine covers.

Trace 4 Gouache and ink 27x35cm

Artist of the month interview

Hi Cecilia, Thank you for agreeing to do this interview with me! How are you today? Thank you so much! I am thrilled and excited to talk with you.

I finished my art education, switching back to fashion design, in Boston Massachusetts USA. Right after that, I fell right into the illustration aspect, my actual passion. At two places of employment in Boston, as staff fashion illustrator, I learned some brass tack skills like paste up and lay out for pages I designed for the New England Fashion Retailer, where I had creative room to place my fashion illustrations.

To get started, can you tell me a little bit about your background and how you got into illustration and Moving to New York City in the early 1980’s for me felt design? like finally finding home! It’s where I could feel I truly belonged; a city of outsiders and glorious misfits. While My family moved at periods of my childhood. Born in working a day job at Vogue Patterns, doing in-house New York City, when I was 3, we moved to Canada, then presentation illustrations, as well as some full color ilEngland and Germany in 5 - 8 year stints. Without even lustrations for the catalogue, I spent the evenings takbeing aware of it being a career goal as such, my interest ing classes at the School of Visual Arts where I took a in drawing fashion started when I was a bored little girl life changing class, several times over, with Jack Potter, on a farm in Canada, poring over my mother’s fashion fashion illustration professor extraordinaire. It was right magazines. at the cusp of the fashion illustration golden era, with I started my fashion design education in Vienna, Aus- greats like Antonio Lopez, Tony Viramontes, Ruben tria, at Modeschule Hetzendorf, followed by design Toledo and Jean Philippe Delhomme still active. Those schools in Frankfurt Germany, 2 1/2 years of which I were the days of poring over the best magazines like switched to studying printmaking and painting at the Vogue, L’Officiel, and like La Mode En Peinture, which fine art academy in Frankfurt, Hochschule fur Bildende I collected and still treasure, where fashion illustration Künste, Staedel. beyond illustration was showcased, to the level of a great art form. Tuncer Tonun 2 Gouache and ink 30.5x22.9cm

1989 Tassel sweater

After getting married and having a daughter, I did my work from home. Had some nice projects with the Philadelphia Museum of Art, illustrating period costumes from the costume department, which were printed onto note cards and embroidered onto tee shirts and other merchandise that got sold in the gift shop. Also worked with Knopf Publications on two really nice coloring books: the first a collaboration with Vogue Magazine, outlining the covers of Vogue in the 1920’s through to 1930. And the second was for David Sibley, the artist author of one of the leading birding guide books here in the US, who wanted a coloring journal with his bird paintings.

Trace 2 Gouache and ink 30x21cm

You have a very diverse portfolio, but your fashion illustrations show sophistication, femininity and stylishness. How do you get ideas?

Can you walk me through your process of creating an illustration?

I am very influenced by Japanese calligraphic brush paintings, and by the illustration greats mentioned above. Tony Viramontes was a strong influence, with his exaggerated manneristic fashion paintings. Picasso’s massive nudes are always in the back of my mind with his sculptural use of mass. In my earlier work, as much as now, I was most influenced by Antonio Lopez for his unique style and attention to detail. My classes at the School of Visual Arts is where I started getting liberated and using mass and bold rough strokes, in balance and contrast to fine line and filigreed detail. Travel to other countries, other worlds, always feeds the spirit. And exploring museums and street graffiti and street styles, always feels essential!

In the past, line work and detailed watercolor and gouache, with colored pencils, gel pens, and whatever else I needed to express myself with. Progressively, I started using more varied brushes, from Japanese calligraphy brushes, to rough, and broad brushes. I’ve been made aware by artist friends of mine,that I start out with scattered patches of wash or rough brush strokes that seem at first to be disjointed, but that is in order to get the gesture and mass down, and then fill in the gaps with fine calligraphic details, and swipes and strokes to connect and give movement.

What is the piece of work you are most proud of? I think I love the work I did for DCC when collaborating with Trace. Some work that I did in the past are perhaps more polished and professional in appearance, but the sketch sessions at Drawing Cabaret Couture have unleashed a much more creative side to my work.

What inspires your work and do you have a muse? Of course, so many great artists: however, Picasso rates tops on the list, along with Velasquez, Turner, Goya, Diego Rivera, as well as some of the quieter artists like Chardin, Morandi, and the great Vermeer. In the last ten years or so, I’ve been taking classes in Japanese calligraphy, from which I get a great amount of inspiration. My illustration work has become more calligraphic as a result. Muses: My top favorite muse right now has to be the ethereal beauty, Janet Mayer, of course! I love her Tilda Swindon vibe. David Bowie! Grace Jones. Anok Yai … The boundaries of what’s beautiful are ever evolving.

1989 Blue sweater

Tuncer Tonun 4 Gouache and ink 29.7x21cm

Trace 3 Gouache and ink 29.7x21cm You have a lot of industry experience as a fashion illustrator. What is a piece of advice you would give to aspiring designers and artists? Maksim Koloskov, in your past issue, had it right: Once you decide that you are an artist, don’t let anyone, anything, get in the way. And may I add, the first instinct is most usually the best way to go. Brought up in a very old fashioned family, I was brought up to defer to everyone else. There’s a difference between deference as opposed to respect for yourself and your convictions as well as for the world you see. Learn to really see! And then learn to interpret what you see into what you feel about it, onto the paper.

I must conclude with this: The pandemic brought us an unexpected silver lining when remote drawing programs came to the rescue, like those of Ted Michalowski of New York’s Society of Illustrators which led me to Drawing Cabaret Couture! Bringing avant-garde fashion for us fortunate artists to draw. And the creative collaboration of Janet Mayer, and J’Adore La Vie performers and models, with the nonstop fantastic set designs by Matthew Lawrence… a Godsend !!! And now, fulfilling the dream of having our artwork be featured in a creative, independent magazine like yours.

N PALMER For his sophomore collection, designer Nicholas Palmer addresses the challenge of bringing his eponymous label from its origins during lockdown to a strong position in a new and changed world that is emerging from the pandemic. N Palmer was born from Palmer’s commitment to sustainability and his goal of creating garments that exude positivity. The N Palmer SS22 collection continues this vision, employing only vintage and dead-stock materials in a new collection that emphasizes optimistic, beautiful responses to the problems of materialism.

Credits Creative Director: Nicholas Palmer Photographer and Master of Ceremonies: Willow Wil& liams 1st photography assistant: Sarah Merritt 2nd photography assistant: James Barretts Styling: Jordan Dean Schnider Styling Assistants: Sophie Casha & Jon Wallner Hair : Toni and Guy Makeup: by Jenny Green DOP, Editor and Soundtrack: Benjamin Charlton Retouching: Adam Reinbach Models Babs and Koshin at NAMED Models Glasses : Cubitts Shoes: Good News

Cecilia Lehar Blue Sweater @cecilialehar

@goldfoilmag www.goldfoil.eu