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GOLDFOIL On the cover

RANIA PUGHOLM

Drawing Cabaret Couture featuring CSM Team Project - Floe

ARTIST OF THE MONTH

The Ins and Outs of Current Fashion

Luis Hidalgo

LFW ISSUE 17

MAR 2022

Our Mission

At GoldFoil magazine we work with new and emerging talent within the fashion industry to bring you incredible content, interesting interviews, different points of view, and much more. We believe that we are always able to do better, to expand our horizons, to learn and experience more.

Artwork by: Luis Hidalgo @luishidalgo

Editor notes

A few weeks ago we woke up to a new world in the harsh reality of war. Not going to lie or try to sugar coat anything, when I saw the news I was glued to my phone for hours at times, and the next thought that ran through my head was that it would be absolutely cynical of me to continue publishing this magazine while people are at war. However, art has always been political and as such we have to keep going. This issue covers some of my personal experiences of London Fashion Week and the shows I attended and the people I met, two incredible photographers - one a duo called Anmi Studio, and the other Puja Bhatia, a Getty images contributor; provided the street style images for the issue. I had the pleasure of talking with Rania Pugholm - the model on the cover of the magazine, captured by Margarita Poly, with the stylist and MUA Julia Afanesko. We took part in the Drawing Cabaret Couture exclusive London Fashion Week classes and covered the CSM Project titled FLOE, which you will find illustrations of in the following pages. The interview with the artist of the month - Luis Hidalgo would give you a glimpse into the thought process of the artist and provide you with a more personal understanding of his work, that I hope you enjoy reading. Deyvid Dimitrov Editor

TABLE OF CONTENTS

20 24 38

46 52

Fashion from the streets of London Helen Kirkum Rania Pugholm Juan Batista Drawing Cabaret Couture CSM Team Project Luis Hidalgo - Artist of the month interview Ray Chu AW22 KIVU Skincare LCFMA - Hong Zhao LCFMA - Licong Gong KWK Kay Kwok

FASHION

FROM THE STREETS OF LONDON AT FASHION WEEK

Fashion week was underway in London despite the strong winds, there is nothing like a competition on who will have a better entrance on the stage, and a few gusts of wind have no chance over the whirlwind some of these fashion icons brought to the streets. Absolutely swarmed by photographers waiting to capture the best dressed of the season, fashion week goers showed off their best looks and the following are some of our favourites. Some of the key trends we are seeing this season include a wide variety of shades of green, a trend started earlier in 2021 by Daniel Lee at Bottega Veneta. Chunky shoes which no longer refer to sneakers alone, now encompass a variety of boots including wellington boots in hot pinks, blues and greens seen both on the runway and on front row. Sustainability plays a big part in how Gen Z shops and this is noticeable in the more earthy tones and the more local brands featured in these outfits rather than the staples in designer wear we are used to seeing during these times. Overall long coats, bell sleeved tops and wide trousers were the rage and we cannot wait to see what the rest of fashion week across the globe brings.

Photo credit Puja Bhatia @p.b_photography22

Photo credit Anmi Studio @anmistudio

Photo credit Puja Bhatia @p.b_photography22

Photo credit Anmi Studio @anmistudio

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RANIA PUGHOLM on the cover shot by MARGARITA POLY

Rania Pugholm is an international model, influencer and brand ambassador. She has traveled the world and lived in Egypt, Spain, Germany, Scotland and Dubia, but currently calls London her home. Rania started modeling when she was 17 years old and has since grown to become the face of international brands, she’s been on the cover of many international magazines and is currently the spokesmodel for the International Bikini Model Search. Additionally, she is an experienced runway model, having modeled at Cannes Fashion Week, Dubai Fashion Week, Fashion Forward, Dubai Bridal Show and many others. She has a diploma in PR and Journalism and is fluent in four languages - Arabic, English, Spanish and German.

Credits: Model: Rania Pugholm Photographer: Margarita Poly MUA and Hair: Julia Afanasenko

@raniapugholm @santomuse @juliarta.style

Juan Batista 20

Credits Photographer: Juan Batista @juanbautizta Model: Manu @soymanuuuuuuu Makeup Artist: Maximiliano Olivares @rmaxo Agency: BRUM Model Management @brum.models

Juan Batista

- Drawing Cabaret Couture -

Production:

Drawing Cabaret Couture @drawingcabaretcouture Designers: @s.p.e.n_ @ririloves.you @lillaalill @pedro.reflects @willythemonka @glamourtoad25 @mmatildamoore @lilianamccue Location: @dcc.studios Set Design & Lighting: Matthew Lawrence @mglawrence_ Model: Billie Dellios @billiedellios Eliska Sky Guest Photographer: @eliskasky 24

Drawing Cabaret Couture Drawing Cabaret Couture is a London-based production team who specialise in creating high fashion films and editorials. All of which are professionally produced and live-streamed from their film and photography studio in London. They regularly hold haute couture based drawing classes and immersive events, and most of the creatives who join their sessions are leading professional fashion illustrators and artists.

When taking part in a two-hour art class online, you will immerse yourself into a fantasy world, letting go of preconceptions. You will have the opportunity to focus on colours, shapes and movement from the comfort of your home studio while taking inspiration from this incredible visual experience. By taking part in such a creative and social immersive event as Drawing Cabaret Couture, you will have the opportunity to meet many other creatives, as well as learn of designers and artists Drawing Cabaret Couture was created by model, you might not have come across before, you will professional dancer and choreographer Janet May- see your artistic skills improve and you will gain er (who you might recognise from J’adore La Vie) more clarity, and feel more relaxed and confident. and artist & set designer Matthew Lawrence who’s establishing himself as a fine art oil painter. To- Following the journey of some of the artists we gether, with a full team of makeup artists, hair have featured over the past 8 months will give stylists, fashion designers, shoe makers, milliners, you an insight into how much their classes have models, technicians, photographers and set de- helped these talented creatives improve their obsigners they create new and inspiring editorials to servational skills. And becoming their Patreon bring their fabulous live drawing classes to your supporter will give you the opportunity to enjoy living room. Their concept has proven very suc- their classes, meet like minded individuals, and cessful especially during the pandemic and that get the chance to be featured in GoldFoil Magais when it grew in popularity, as more and more zine (shhh, pretend like we did not say this). creatives needed a sense of normality and a new inspiration. The classes have already gained a huge global following of professional artists and illustrators as well as those who simply just want to immerse themselves in this unique new drawing experience.

www.patreon.com/drawingcabaretcouture 26

CSM PROJECT

FLOE The students of Central Saint Martins worked alongside LVMH to create a sustainable mini collection using deadstock materials. At the start of the project students would form teams consisting of 3 students from each pathway - print, knitwear, and fashion design with marketing. They would do their own research and this is how the post-apocalyptic world idea was born. ‘’In order to survive the harsh, extreme climates our garments would have to be worn’’ explains Drew Kent, one of the students who took part in this project. The collection titled FLOE explores how garments are able to adapt to extreme environments while providing an impactful yet fluid style. This is created with the CSM extensive experimentation towards technical colour dyes, intricate prints, and knit/textile exploration. The silhouette the team has designed

brings forward a message of hope and aspirations of how they envision a luxurious yet functional fabric serving an individual in various extreme conditions of an ever changing climate. ‘’We have personally immersed ourselves in exploring existing adaptations of how humans have had to adapt and survive in the coldest and warmest weather conditions. We have intricately looked into the wearability and survival aspects of the shaping and bold functionality details of the acquired garments used to live amongst these treacherous conditions. However, our main point of inspiration has been the beauty and color of the extreme landscapes themselves and how the effects of harsh ice storms and scorching heat waves can dramatically change the spaces.

CREDITS Production:

Drawing Cabaret Couture @drawingcabaretcouture Designers: @s.p.e.n_ @ririloves.you @lillaalill @pedro.reflects @willythemonka @glamourtoad25 @mmatildamoore @lilianamccue @dcc.studios Location: Set Design & Lighting: Matthew Lawrence @mglawrence_ Billie Dellios Model: @billiedellios Eliska Sky Guest Photographer: @eliskasky

Funky Freeze A4 Mixed Media

Claire Jones @clairejonesart Neon Boy A4 Ink on Paper

Emanuela Mae Agrini @emanuela_mae_agrini

Patterns 37x28cm Gouache on Paper

Standing 37x28cm Gouache on Paper

Ej Negre 1080x1350px Digital Art

1080x1350 Digital Art

Jackie Mallon @jackie_mallon1 Billie in Stitches 9x12 Ink and Colour Pencil

Billie Grabs His Jacket 9x12 Marker and Ink

Jean Warner @jean_warner_art

Dance Trance Digital Art

Prepared Digital Art

Kaz Mak @lines2shapes

Tropical Winter 18x14cm Watercolour and Ink

Louise Boughton @louiseboughton_

Layered Blue 29.7x42cm Paint and Markers

Neon Dream 29.7x42cm Markers

Luis Hidalgo @luishidalgo Floe 11x17 Digital Art

Floe 11x8.5 Digital

Rosemary Coan @ rosemary.fries.180

Blue Hat Portrait 11x14in Charcoal, Pastel

Gesture in Blue 11x14in Charcoal, Watercolour, Ink

Sunanda @sundocarts

Attribution 27x36cm Watercolour

Centered 27x38cm Watercolours

Vanessa Lawrence @vanessalawrencexx

Floe 50x65cm Pastel on Paper

Yann Mallard @zeeyannosse

LUIS HIDALGO Fine art and illustration artist living in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic. With a strong background in Fashion design, his body of work ( using both digital and traditional media ) deals mostly with humor and his own very caricaturesque point of view.

Hi Luis. Thank you for agreeing to do this in/ terview, I am really excited to get to know your practice as an artist. Thank you so much for your interest in my work, this is such an honour. How are you today? Fine thanks, a bit tired after catching up on all Drawing Cabaret Couture´s sessions for London Fashion Week, but overall very happy with all the wonderful results.

Tell us a little about yourself? I´m an illustrator living in Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic, right in the middle of the Caribbean. I´m a teacher at my Alma Mater ( Chavón/ La Escuela de Diseño ), where I’ve been teaching Fashion Illustration/ Drawing for the last 20 years. I have worked for many local brands/ designers and also for a few international blogs.

also look at the work of many contemporary illustrators like Melanie Reim, Carlos Aponte, Helen BullI have an AD in Fashion design, and prior to that, ock, Bill Donovan just to name a few. I went to College for Advertising/ Graphic Design. I have always enjoyed drawing and loved fashion. Instagram has also introduced me to the work of Growing up in the 80s with all the hype about music many fascinating artists. As for my style, I draw every and fashion made me fall in love with fashion de- day. I´m a Taurus so I´m pretty routine oriented, but sign, and made it possible to attend Fashion school I’m also quite stubborn. I like to challenge myself later on. I have always been intrigued by why peo- by not doing things the same way all the time, espeple wear the clothes they wear and why do they buy cially when it comes to techniques and materials. I them. How the clothes one wears can be a way of self approach fashion drawing with a story in my head, expression. about the clothes or the character wearing them, and try to convey that storytelling through my drawing. It can be as subtle as the direction the figure´s eyes look back at you or as complicated as a really intriYour style is very distinct and whenever I see cate texture rendering. It´s all about creating a story photos of your art I can instantly recognise it. and communicating a feeling. What are your biggest influences and how did you develop your style? Did you study art or are you self taught?

Thank you. I remember watching a story about Antonio on TV and falling in love with his work, and also realizing that Fashion Illustration, as a career, existed so one could say he is quite an influence. I

Could you walk me through your art mak/ ing process? I always draw with music. Most of the time I look for music that relates (at least in my head) to what I want to draw. Also, lighting incense is a plus. For DCC´s classes, I use an iPad, which is relatively new to me but has given me the benefit of saving/ sharing the result in high definition, skipping the hassle of taking photographs or scanning. And since I am in the middle of moving to another apartment, most of my art materials are still stored in a box… somewhere. So the iPad has been a real blessing. Took some time to get the hang of it, but then again, I´m quite stub-

What is your favourite piece of art you have made?

Do you have a muse and how do you find in/ spiration?

Well, there have been many. I find that I really enjoy when the drawing takes a life of its own, and just flows. Drawing digitally I challenge myself not to erase, and that really has injected energy into my drawings. I really enjoyed the last pieces I did from Drawing Cabaret Couture´s London Fashion Week 5 day classes, mostly because the variety of designers allowed me to experiment with different solutions and graphic approaches to the figure. I also attend a few online figure drawing groups and really love what I have been able to make.

Many muses, not just one. Quite often I get obsessed with a style, a person, or an era, and begin researching and collecting images. Currently obsessed with German expressionism and the Weimar Era. I read a lot of literature which helps unleash my imagination.

Would you share with us some of your art/ works from the Drawing Cabaret Couture London Fashion Week classes? Glad to. I think Drawing Cabaret Couture´s classes really encompass what I mention previously - the sets, the playlists, the clothes and the models are always so inspiring. Week after week they have managed to wow me, even though for work/ time zone differences I often have to watch the catchup videos.

Ray Chu @raychustudios

CHAPTER IIII - TOUCH ME Ray Chu showcased their collection in a digital form as part of London Fashion Week’s official schedule. Titled ‘Touch Me’ it pays homage to sensuality with an experimental approach, it introduces bold silhouettes and a more subtle colour palette to the brand, with intricate designs in black, sage green, warm ivory. These colours illustrate a more relaxed, laid back collection juxtaposed with the figurative visual expression of personal desires. The signature motifs and the Ray Chu logo have made their way into the collection in the form of prints, embroideries, patches, cut outs and organic design lines. This season the designer collaborates with the artist Draw Me Denis, whose works are mostly LGBTQ+ group portraits from a personal perspective, and the iconic and provocative artwork ‘’ Touch Me’’ provides for the name of the collection. This season the designer sports 2 other collaborations - Ray Chu works with Miss21’ to introduce a vegan leather shoe line; and a designer collaboration with the Taiwanese LAB 808 to co-create a new vegan leather using recycled tea leaves and plastics to further solidify the status of the brand as a sustainable label.

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LCF MA HONG ZHAO Photography: Roger Dean

Hong Zhao is originally from China. As a designer she is passionate about telling the stories of the Chinese working class through vibrant colours and textiles. Inspired by her own childhood growing up in a working-class family in a Chinese harbour city, her work draws from 1990s Chinese styles, trends and aesthetics that are combined with bold graphic designs, kitsch and vivid colours. Hong’s LCFMA22 collection, Home Shrine: The portrait of a fisherman, speaks to this same theme as it aims to act as a physical and moving shrine dedicated to the working class in China, particularly the fishermen as it aims to celebrate their incredible dedication and contributions as well as their positivity. Hong partly created her collection by collecting photos of the fishermen from Shenzhen City and observing what they made her feel; warm, homesick, and joyous. These emotions led to the range of colours present while kitsch elements such as flowers, dirt, red fabrics, handwriting, and city skylines inspired the collection’s print elements. All of these have been layered with various fabrics and fishnet elements to create the collection. Hong’s professional experience includes an internship with Laurence and Chico.

LCF MA LICONG GONG Photography: Roger Dean

Licong Gong is originally from China. As a designer Licong is committed to the research and development of printing innovation in traditional menswear and inspired by the principle of electronic imaging and some types of dot art. Through his printing design, he uses colour to express emotions and humour and hopes these traits will pass on to those who need it. Licong’s LCFMA22 collection, ESPACÉES, is based on the exploration of the distance illusion of relationship, and the change of distance is presented through halftone; a reprographic technique that simulates continuous tone imagery through the use of shapes to form printed patterns and silhouettes (the integrated pattern of the overall look being composed of multiple items). From the perspective of clothing, the change of distance of the shapes forms two printing effects (dots superimposed printing and color block printing).

KWK

BY KAY KWOK Kay Kwok returns to London Fashion Week for AW22 after an 8 year hiatus under the re/ branded KWK by Kay Kwok label. Digitalisa/ tion is central to this rebrand, with this home/ coming show representing only the beginning of a long term move towards gamification, online interactivity, and community building within the metaverse. The Autumn/Winter 2022 collection, titled “Chapter 1 – The Journey Begins” weaves a vision of the future where humanity has re/ located from Earth across the galaxy. Rather than looking to distant worlds however, Kay Kwok imagines those who were left behind in this great exodus – the abnormal, unortho/ dox, unconventional, and imperfect. This sto/ ry introduces the first two avatars Bo-bae and Bom who come to life digitally on the catwalk blurring the lines between the physical and meta-physical, a second space of unlimited opportunity and potential to live out dreams and fantasies, hopes and fears, authentically, unashamedly – an intangible place where we can live out our truth.

Philanthropy, giving back, expanding hori/ zons, and leading the audience towards the possibility of all-inclusive love is at the heart of Kwok’s philosophy. Setting aside conven/ tional standards for beauty, KWK by Kay Kwok shines a light on the unseen, raises a platform for the unheard, and builds a space for individuality to celebrate all that we are as beautiful, chaotic, contradictory and complex humans. KWK by Kay Kwok presents brand avatars, each representing values, ethics and stories we see in the real world around us. Free from expectations of the material world, these am/ bassadors for liberated and diverse thought, present a avenue for the brand to explore what KWK by Kay Kwok can be, an out-of-body op/ portunity for creativity in the third person, and a design perspective that an once looks outward to the world, and inward from exter/ nal viewpoints.

Credits Creative Director: Kay Kwok Production: Dani Wall & Luka Dijan at North Wall Production Production Support: Casey Angco and Sarah Lairos Technical Production: Simon Cabrera at AV London Hair: Efi Davies and the Toni & Guy Session Team using Label.M Professional Haircare Make-Up: Lan Nguyen-Grealis using Danessa Myricks Beauty Make-up Support: Seoulista Beauty and Guru Makeup Emporium Stickers by Facelace Video: Adam Cripps at Project Video Photography: Chris Yates

On the cover Model: Rania Pugholm Photographer: Margarita Poly MUA and Hair: Julia Afanasenko

@goldfoilmag www.goldfoil.eu

@raniapugholm @santomuse @juliarta.style