DISRUPTIVE CHIC DISRUPTIVE CHIC

Disruptive Chic is the basis of a trend launch collection for the brand diesel. Tapping into the current popularity of denim on denim and matching sets, and driven by the y2k and 90s minimalist trends. Think Distressed, skimpy and heavy on the statement piece. This collection embodies exactly what diesel became known for making it ideal for the young and daring, trend driven individual that is the diesel customer. I have designed a specialised collection featuring specifically statement pieces and purposely lacking in core items. This approach was inspired by diesels recent comeback, as I hope to follow its new creative director in reviving diesels cheeky and provocative brand image of the 2000s when the denim brand was renowned for the statement piece. I wanted the collection to have a very original feel which is why I have stuck to a blue colour palette full of rich denim shades. It will be released on the 3rd of may, just in time for the summer months when the weather is just right and the pieces can be worn not just as an everyday staple but also for the perfect going out/evening look.
This trend is not just inspired by previous diesel collections but also many of the ss23 catwalks shows such as GCDS, blumArine, kimhēkim, off white, Chloe, and allesandra rich. Denim was all over the ss23 shows as the need for matching sets and double denim continues to grow, driven by the ongoing #noughtiesnostalgia and y2k trends.
below we can see celebrity style as well as fashion week Street style in Milan, New York and Paris.
The denim trend has already began making it’s way to high street stores, with diesel style garments popping up in shops such as zara and Bershka. The trend also seems to be taking over social media with countless influencers sporting double denim and co-ord sets.
This trend is diesel to the core and is, in fact, an embodiment of the very style they became known for so many years ago. This collection will be a fresh and chic continuation of that, perfeclty aligning trends today.
the jumpsuit isn’t a product that has been part of many previous diesel collections which is why I think it will be a good asset to my collection. Similar silhouettes have been seen on the SS23 catwalks such as givenchy, annakiki, Kenneth Nicholson and mônot. Diesel have also showcased silhouettes such as the corset and utility jeans that form the jumpsuit so I think these put together create a silhouette that is perfeclty inline with disruptive chic and diesel as a brand.
annakiki
to create the look I have put together a strapless corset with a pair of utility jeans
mônot
The jumpsuit will be made using 100% cotton for the most comfortable, breathable and durable garment that holds its shape.
Givenchy
the WGsn report states that jumpsuits have seen a 56% growth and are on the rise, further proving the commerciality of this product.
Denim Corset Utility
Jumpsuit
£275
Fabric: 96% organic cotton
COO: italy
Cropped Denim trucker
jacket
£295
Fabric: 96% organic cotton
COO: italy
lapelless denim Blazer
£250
Fabric: 96% organic cotton
Mid rise bootleg jean
£195
Fabric: 96% organic
cotton, 2% elastanespandex
COO: Italy
Denim Strapless corset
£230
Fabric: 96% organic
cotton, 1% elastane
COO: italy
distressed denim mini
skirt
£150
Fabric: 96% organic cotton
COO: italy
COO: italy
low rise straight jean
£250
Fabric: 96% organic
cotton
COO: italy
low rise denim mini
short
£150
Fabric: 96% organic cotton
COO: italy
crop raw hem denim jacket
£250
Fabric: 96% organic
cotton
COO: italy
distressed mid rise
straight leg jean
£185
Fabric: 96% organic
cotton
COO: italy
distressed crop denim
waistcoat
£195
Fabric: 96% organic
cotton
COO: italy
Raw hem denim mini skirt
£150
Fabric: 96% organic cotton
COO: italy
Denim bandeau maxi dress
£230
Fabric: 96% organic cotton, 2% elastane
COO: italy
tailored jean short
£150
Fabric: 96% organic cotton
COO: italy
Jean detail denim
bandeau
£175
Fabric: 96% organic cotton, 1% elastane
COO: italy
waistless denim mini skirt
£130
Fabric: 96% organic cotton
COO: italy
low rise denim cargo
£230
Fabric: 96% organic cotton
COO: italy
jean detail denim tube top
£130
Fabric: 96% organic cotton, 1% elastane
COO: italy
Denim bustier bralet top
£150
Fabric: 96% organic cotton, 1% elastane
COO: italy
Denim hula bag
£395
Fabric: outer - 96% organic cotton. Handle 100% iron. 96% organic cotton
COO: italy
rimless visor sunglass
£190
Fabric: 100% acetate
COO: italy
jean detail denim knee
high boot
£450
Fabric: 96% organic cotton
COO: italy
jean detail denim
cluch
£375
Fabric: 96%
organic cotton
COO: italy
Distressed slingback denim
heel
£395
Fabric: 96% organic cotton
COO: italy
oversized aviator
sunglass
£145
Fabric: 100% acetate
COO: italy
this product fashionability chart shows the core, fashion and trend pieces that are within this range. This also influences store allocation. I have spreaded the garments out based on product in this instance but I do believe that most would come under the trend sector if considered in their spcified fabric form (denim). However,
Like stated in my introduction, the plan was to create a heavily statement/trend based collection so It aligns with what I set out to do.
The range will be split between three different store types. Grade A will be the flagship stores and high end department stores such as Selfridges, where the whole range will be available. Grade B will be smaller city stores and mid end department stores such as Fenwick, where all items in Grade B and c will be available (the more fashion and core items). Grade c will be stores inside shopping centres, where only the core items will be sold. The garments have been allocated based on where they'll sell the best because of which category they fall under. as well as brick and mortar stores, the entire collection will also be available on diesel’s website, along with several other online designer retailers such as house of fraser, Selfridges, farfetch and flannels. Marketing wilL be done through social media and tv ads. There will also be billboards in major cities and disruptive chic window displays in flagship and department stores.
Above is the sales and buy plan for my Disruptive chic trend launch collection. As you can see, bottoms hold the highest percentage within the mix at 42%. Being a denim brand and a denim collection i think this is accurate based on the fact that denim styles are prevalently bottoms such as jeans, skirts and shorts etc. Dresses hold the lowest percentage of the mix at only 7% because this is a lesson common garment to create out of denim and i felt that one staple of each would be perfect for my range. i didn't include any knitwear as the collection is due to be launched in mAY FOR SS23 SO ITS SIMPLY THE WRONG SEASON TO BE LAUNCHING KNITWEAR. In terms of fashionability, i feel there is a good distribution with trend holding the highest percentage of the mix at 41%. Again this figure is accurate being that disruptive chic is a trend based collection. The commerciality of the collection is shown through the excellent figure of planned sales turnover and i think there's a high chance the range will exceed that number, either way resulting in a success.
These snapshots from wgsn’s Women's Denim S/S 23 report show that the low rise jean, the denim blazer, and the matching set are all going to be key items for SS23. This justifies as to why I have put them in my range.
WGSN Also featured many other products that are part of my range in their various other denim reports such as the upcycled corset, the utility jean, the denim skirt and the denim short - further proving the commerciality of disrupt ve chic.
Manyoftheitemsinmyrangewerealsofeaturedinwgsn’sss24 reports.Thisshowsthatmyrangewillstillbeontrendthe followingyear,furtherjustfyingmychoicesandagain proving thecommercialityofthisrange.
Th s wgsn report looks at the d fferent f n shes that are currently on trend for denim. The d sruptive n d srupt ve ch c describes the distressed and upcycled appeal that my range gives with major ty of the products hav ng some sort of destruct on, fray ng or patchwork element (E g the knee high boots and bandeau top w th jean deta l ng) This shows that my range s not only inlign with trends but also the diesel brandbe ng that destructive den m is what diesel s known for
WGSN Collection Review: Wash & Finish –Women's Denim S/S 23
As an avid fashion lover, the inability to regulate my shopping habits, as well as my constant exploration and broad use of social media provides me with an exceptional instinct for spotting the latest trends. This meant that i didn't have to conduct much research before selecting a trend because i already knew the most current ones and constantly buying into it myself anyway, wanted to pick my current favourite: denim. Creating a trend launch that is commercial and on trend, whilst meeting the needs of the brands target audience is the most important factor when planning a range and this is exactly what i have done. the strong presence of denim across countless SS23 catwalks such as blumarine, givenchy, coach, stella mcartney, prabal gurung, dion lee and Mônot, to name a few, are already filtering down to retail, and the nostalgia for the 1990s and 2000s thanks to the y2k trend will continue to drive denim trends according to WGSN. Many sub trends have also began to emerge leading on from this, such as double denim and matching denim sets. Taking inspiration from previous diesel collections i chose to base my range around these sub trends because i feel they align with the brand perfectly.
I chose Diesel as my brand based on the fact that they are a denim brand and i am creating a strictly denim range. Diesel have also made quite a strong comeback within the industry as of late, some could even consider the brand itself as a recent trend. Many diesel catwalk inspired items can be seen across high street stores such as Zara and bershka and the current obsessions over double denim and matching sets (observed by myself and also stated on WGSN) just scream diesel to me.
To build upon my already well established knowledge around this trend, i took to WGSN to research further. i used several of their buyers briefing reports and trend reports to help influence my choice of garments, colours and silhouettes, solidifying the commerciality of my range. I chose true Californian denim shades such as the ones in my moodboard to give the range the most original feel. I Stuck to a blue theme as i feel other colours of denim such as white, black and grey can sometimes come across tacky and cheap or too grunge, they also just didn't fit the vibe of this trend. Most items come in only one shade of blue because i feel this gives more exclusivity to each singular piece - being a more trend driven collection. I allocated the different shades of blue strategically, allowing The individual pieces to be worn alone or as a matching set. i feel that the product range is well distributed as There is a good mix of core, fashion and trend pieces, slightly heavier in trend items based on diesels usual product offer and distinctive brand style. Following on from this, i feel that the prices reflect diesels usual price range and cater to the diesel target market customer. I used diesels website as a guide, and based prcing on product fashionabilty. The most trend based pieces are priced highest and the more basic, core items are priced at the lowest.
To conclude, I am really happy with the outcome of this range. I believe that it perfectly caters to the needs of the diesel customer and goes hand in hand with the distinctive diesel look, outlining its success to be had, relevancy within the current market and therefore overall commerciality. If i was to change anything i would maybe add a few more basic, core pieces to the collection that customers could mix and match with the denim statement pieces to create more everyday looks and allow the pieces to be worn more often and in different ways.
diesel do not share much information about the way they source their garments. being an Italian brand, it is said that all products Are manufactured exclusively in Italy and all fabrics are sourced in Italy however there is not much information to back this up. The website states that over 80% of its materials come from Italy but there is no information regarding suppliers, factories and processes. They have stated that they promotE honest, diligent, transparent, and cooperative behaviour in their relations with suppliers and provide a lot of information about their sustainability implementations but that’s it.
after visiting a diesel store and taking a look at clothing labels I found that the garments are manufactured in a variety of countries including bulgaria, China, Vietnam, Tunisia, Mauritius, India and Bangladesh. whilst the garments may be good quality and this strategy might helip cut costs, I would like to revamp diesels strategy and begin to manufacture all products exclusively in Italy, working directly with the factories, suppliers and wholesalers. I feel this approach is more sustainable and circular, having only one country of origin, Not to mention Italy's renowned reputation within manufacturing and producing garments. transparent and honest relationships will be formed with new suppliers. Employee and supplier relationships can be monitored more easily, having everything in one place, in order to maintain diesels strict code of ethics. diesels garments will be manufactured in green factories by candiani denim, a sustainable denim producer and one of the most renowned textile produces in the world, specialising in quality, sustainability and innovation. They provide 100% traceability and transparency and work everyday to create innovative and eco friendly fabrics, making them the perfect supplier to achieve a more circular future. This strategy may be pricier than diesels previous strategy, but it Could also improve their brand image and attract a whole new customer base which In turn would drive sales, therefore creating a larger profit.
Founding member of Nato & European Union
Seen as one of the most corrupt countries in Europe
Maintains good relations with other countries. After a string of political crises in recent years, EIU expects Italy's political stability outlook to improve in the near term. With Brexit, Italy becomes the third biggest economy in the EU.
Italy s well-known as one of the largest export econom es in the world.
Italy s one of top manufacturing powers n Europe
The major ndustr es that have been driving the economy are tourism, manufactur ng, agr culture service, and trade
The lack of raw mater als poses a big challenge to the economy which the country deals w th by importing large amounts from its trading partners.
Italian economy remains burdened by political interference, bureaucracy, corruption high levels of taxation a rigid labour market, an neffective jud cial system, a complex regulatory framework and the h gh cost of conducting bus ness
Econom c act vity in taly is set to be subdued n 2023 Growth w ll be held back by h gh nflation we ghing on consumers' purchasing power.
AsofMarch2020,thecurrent populationofItalysaround61 million,Italyhasoneoftheoldest populationsintheworld
Theelderlypopulatonhasbeen severelyhitbycoronavirus theresahghrateoforganised crmeandyouthunemployment,anda risenhatecrimes Italianbusinesscultures hierarchical,flexible,andsociable, andtheirworkngpractcesareboth focusedandperson-orented
Employeesntalyworklonghours andareveryproductve Communicatonbetweenpeerssboth personalandprofessonal
Thehealthandwellnesstrendwas alreadyboomnginItalypre-COVID19,shapingconsumptonpatternsn packagedfood,beveragesand overalllifestyles
COVID-19hasonlyacceleratedthe trendwthconsumersincreasingly payngattentontotheingredientsin theirfoodanddrinktomprovether overalldetandmmunty
taly has made sign ficant progress n the digital arena over the years t s one of the top four countr es in Europe n d gital revolut on and has more than 105,000 hightech companies, and it is a market leader n robotics n Europe
The use of the Internet s fast ris ng n Italy w th companies nvesting heavily n sc entif c and technolog cal research
However poor provis on of broadband and lack of tra n ng opportunit es and fac lit es concerning advanced technolog es are slow ng down the progress of d g tal revolut on.
talian f rms too are follow ng the social media trend, bu ld ng the r online presence us ng soc al networking tools Facebook s the lead ng soc al network in taly followed by Twitter and Pinterest
As the world becomes ever more digital zed, the chance that an ind vidual's or organizat on s data and cyber propert es become compromised has also ncreased taly is no exception to this as thenumber of cyberattackshas rapidly ncreased in the past four years targeting several sectors from governmental to Ct
Italy faces a number of env ronmental challenges For example, air pollution, poor waste management cl mate change, water pollution, deplet on of natural resources, over packag ng of consumer goods so l eros on, and flooding.
In many areas of taly, ch ld labor is often culturally acceptable n workplaces l ke restaurants because customers think they are fam ly businesses n the process of try ng to make more money, some child workers fall nto the hands of crim nal organ zations, such as the Maf a. Italy generates more than a third of its electr c ty from renewable sources, such as hydroelectric, solar and wind power and has surpassed a European Union goal to recycle 65% of urban waste by 2025.
The Made n taly brand is supported by a green economy, with 345 000 Ital an companies embracing low carbon production
The government n taly encourages fore gn d rect nvestment by offering ncent ves e g subs d sed loans cash grants and tax credits Sett ng up a bus ness by the locals or fore gn investors s relat vely easy Employees are ent tled to all statutory employment r ghts e g hol day, sick leave, maternity leave, severance pay and so on during the course of employment employers are obl ged to observe the general pr nc ple of equal treatment of all staff w th regard to their employment and cond tions of work
Ant trust Law in Italy refers to the competit on laws wh ch specify the ways n wh ch consumers are protected aga nst corporate pract ces that can jeopard ze the competit on rules set on the local market Constitut onal r ghts of employment are la d out in Italy s const tution That document g ves all cit zens a r ght to work to receive fa r pay d ctates maximum hours, and guarantees pa d hol day. S nce 1987 the Ital an Department of Labour l mits the max mum hours to 48 hours a week
The Risk Assessment s the document that describes the risks and prevention measures for health and safety n the workplace: this document is mandatory for all companies n Italy w th at least one employee
technology improves speed to market because speed to market revolves around how quickly a business can get their product to the customer. Thanks to new coming of age technologies and Omni channel approaches brands are able to experiment more with garments to deliver them easier and at a faster rate.
websites and mobile apps provide customers with extra platforms to purchase garments. This eliminates the need to go to actual brick and mortar stores meaning the customer can view new products quicker than before and purchase them quicker and more seamlessly than before. Brands like diesel sell on multiple online platforms such as flannels, house of Fraser and selfridges meaning that if a product is out of stock on the diesel website, customers have multiple other quick ways of getting the product. as of recent years new technologies have also been introduced within the design world, improving speed to market. Designers at marks and spencers use a system which allows them to quickly mock-up and prototype a design. This means they can rapidly test new designs, colours and materials etc in a realistic and accurate setting, without having to physically Make anything. This technology can cut production time in half therefore improving speed to market in ways that have never been seen before. It is also far more sustainable and environmentally friendly. adding to this, Microsoft have developed an interactive data visualization software product called Power Bi, again used by many retail companies. Power BI is a collection of software services, apps, and connectors that work together to turn unrelated sources of data into coherent, visually immersive, and interactive insights. These insights are responsible for providing brands with the knowledge of which products should be in which place at which time, therefore improving speed to market.
I have chosen air freight as my transport method because I believe this is the most suitable for higher end products. Diesels products are sold at a reasonably high price so higher transport costs would not be much of an issue and I believe this is the safest and most efficient method for the diesel product to be transported. high end brands such as diesel need the security that their items will arrive untampered and in good condition and i believe air freight is the most suitable option to ensure this.
advantages:
easy tracking global delivery
least risk of theft and damage low packing cost low insurance premiums least risk of delays high speed
Disadvantages:
dependable on weather conditions
high costs
Smaller carrying capacity
Not environmentally friendly
current strategy featured on the D esel website
As of 2020, Diesel have implemented various sustainable development goals to Reach by 2030. They intend on reaching these goals using the following strategies; diesel library: an evergreen denim essentials collection made to last, using alternative materials and production processes, and designed through a 360 sustainability lens; diesel essentials: a collection of everyday jersey staples made with responsibly sourced cotton and lower impact treatments and trims; diesel rehab denim: a line made using 100% recycled cotton, fully recycled spandex elastane, and dry indigo technology, a technology reducing the amount of water, chemicals and energy required in the dying process, and finally; diesel second hand: a platform where diesel buy back your old denim to extend denim lifecycle and increase product use through a carefully curated selection of Diesel pre-owned denim, meticulously restored, renewed and available in Italian selected stores and online throughout Europe. - Diesel.com
To extend efforts further, I have selected Candiani Denim as diesels new denim supplier for SS23. They created the first fully biodegradable jeans using a plant-based yarn obtained from natural rubber to replace synthetic petrol-based yarns. The jeans were put to the test by being buried in forest land for six months and At the end of that period the fibres had almost fully disintegrated. This is just one example of their success and proof that Working with candiani and adopting their many approaches to circular fashion would very much benefit diesel as a brand.
I will continue the sustainable approach by working with candiani denim, to reuse, recycle and create new innovations out of any unwanted or unsellable diesel garments either provided by customers or the diesel second hand platform. Moreover, all future diesel collections starting with ss23, will be made using cadianis 96% organic cotton; Gmo-free and grown according to strict environmental and social standards certified gots by icea. diesel have already made a great star towards a more sustainable future and I believe that my chosen strategies will push this much further, towards the ultimate goal of becoming fully sustainable.
advantages:
reaches a more diverse customer base reduced storage costs as product is widely distributed
Increased competitiveness thanks to target marketing
Enables company to optimise on different channels can build good relationships
Disadvantages:
must meet the needs of different market segments
channels may develop conflicting objectives
Reduces control over costs
loss of control over selling environment
reduced ability to communicate with and collect information from customers
Hybrid distribution uses both direct and indirect channels. Diesel uses this approach because they work directly with suppliers when regarding products on their own website or going to diesel stores, but also work with wholesalers to place diesel items on various e-commerce sites and in department stores and high end stores such as Selfridges, harrods, flannels and house of Fraser.
Step 1
Confirmation of order. Range plan signed off. Orders processed.
Step 2
Base test report completed. First sampling test completed using the proposed fabrics from range plan.
Step 3
Lab dips submitted.
Colours approved. Tests for fabric shrinkage & sampling Fit sampling
Fabric production begins
Accuracy is required so further fittings are nessary.
Step 4 Buyer approves Step 5
Step 9
Orders are shipped & delivered to warehouses on assigned date.
step 8
Buyer & merchandiser receive comments
Production of cutting
Step 10
Arrival of orders in stores
Step 7
Details & labelling is all checked to ensure each step has gone through approvals
Step 6
Manufactuing of bulk, cloth, trims, sealers and final garments.
https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/63603d6982d809eaa48295d7 Catwalk Analytics S/S 23: Denim - 06/02/2023
https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/6321109ec43a337eb0b8975E
https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/638a65ed995aec17a412a98e Key Items Fashion: Women's Denim S/S 24 - 10/02/2023
https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/635292517db940edaae8cf3c Collection
https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/636bc18a059e3c3b34482564
https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/639c396f4b03c45dbc298d60
https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/93673 Buyers' Briefing: Women’s Key Items S/S 23 - 24/01/2022
https://uk.diesel.com/en/ Diesel Website - 14/02/2023
https://www.selfridges.com/GB/en/cat/diesel/?gclsrc=aw.ds&gclid=Cj0KCQiAo-yfBhD_ARIsANr56g4b412_OT8X2xDgSEdZNKI9ijc798NGwWs8QrcNYAGpcfbjdPnV4AaAunBEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds DEISEL ON SELFIRDGES
https://www.flannels.com/diesel/women women's Diesel on flannels
https://www.houseoffraser.co.uk/women/diesel Women's Diesel on house of Fraser