LIQUORS & SPIRITS
AGE OF ENLIGHTENMENT In the French region of Armagnac, timeless traditions continue with the production of a luxurious local brandy, complemented by confit, foie gras and other local delicacies By Timothy Fowler
My research uncovered the region of Armagnac in the ancient province of Gascony, a three-hour train ride south of Paris, where old-fashioned Frenchness seems to be distilled into the food, wine and its beloved namesake spirit. Here, everything slows and seems more delicious. Armagnac is made up of fertile rural land full of vineyards, orchards and cereal crops, with ancient villages inhabited by authentic
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warm-hearted Gascons. Markets, wineries and Armagnac houses dot the countryside. It is a place I could wander country roads, find comfortable accommodations in local inns, and dine on Gascon delights in family-operated restaurants featuring ingredients sourced locally, including wine and Armagnac. It taught me about great traditional Gascon foods, like luscious duck, goose and pork confit, buttery foie gras and locally made rillettes, paired with wine and spirits served with local hospitality. As one local said, “Armagnac is something you live.” While nearby Cognac is more well known, thanks to robust international marketing, Armagnac is its laidback neighbour where distilleries and vineyards have been privately owned and operated by families for generations. The grapes grown to make Armagnac are similar to those grown in Cognac. The geography is alike, but the output is significantly different. Armagnac
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he fountain pen scribble in my travel notebook under the heading “Café de la Poste, Marais, Paris” takes me back to the time when I first discovered Armagnac. My travelling partner and I had enjoyed an incredible dinner at an authentic French bistro we’d stumbled upon. To end our meal, I had asked for a cognac. Instead, the waiter suggested I try Armagnac, a local brandy known around the globe. Burying my nose in its dried fruit and subtle vanilla aromas was a journey of its own, and it inspired me to learn more.
