Swiss Bliss

How do I love thee Switzerland? Let me count the cheeses, says one fromage-obsessed writer nibbling her way through the country

By Waheeda Harris

For those of us with a never-ending desire for cheese, European nations crowd the list of palatable destinations, but there’s one country which tops my list – Switzerland.

What makes this alpine nation the jewel in the crown when it comes to cheese? It’s all about the milk. Swiss cows routinely spend their days grazing on fresh grass in alpine pastures from early spring to late autumn. The high-quality, unpasteurized milk is delivered twice daily and filtered twice before cheesemaking begins, with every producer adhering to a highly regimented process developed over centuries.

ALPINE DESCENT WITH GOATS AND COWS

© SWITZERLAND TOURISM / JAN GEERK

This is cheese central, from small artisan dairies, whose handcrafted products are only sold within the canton where they’re located, to impressively large show dairies. Here, I had ample opportunities to cater to my obsession.

LOCALLY PRODUCED CHEESE CAN BE BOUGHT DIRECTLY FROM THE DAIRY

© SWITZERLAND TOURISM/CHRISTOF SCHUERPF

When I arrived in Zürich last summer, my fellow travel mates chatted excitedly about hiking in the Alps and exploring regions around the country. Meanwhile, I bragged about my plans to indulge in cheesy pursuits as soon as I disembarked, starting with finding a traditional fondue. I wondered how soon I could find a café in the city with the iconic dish on its lunch menu. In my mind’s eye, I imagined sitting in a rustic café, a chilled glass of dry Chasselas, fresh bread, cornichons and a large red pot filled with bubbling, melted cheese in front of me. Alas, I had not accounted for the importance of timing.

SWISS FONDUE IS A POPULAR MEAL DURING WINTER

© SCHWEIZ TOURISMUS/CHRISTOF SONDEREGGER

When I started asking questions in regard to my quest for fondue, I was informed by locals that this cheese-pleasing meal is reserved for the snowy days of winter. There might be a restaurant that would offer it, the concierge told me with a subtle note of disdain. It hardened my resolve to savour my cheese experiences any way I could get them while in Switzerland. The country boasts about 450 cheese varieties, so I was sure I could easily get my minimum cheese intake at every meal.

ARTISANAL CHEESEMAKING

© SWITZERLAND TOURISM

My first foray took me to the artsy city of Basel, where I nibbled on palate-pleasing fresh cheeses paired with fruit and toast to start the day. I sampled other delectable choices, like Tête de Moine, with its notable nutty flavour, and Gruyère, a beloved Swiss classic. I ended my night with Granito, a firm dessert cheese sourced from Vicosoprano, less than a half-hour from the former Olympic town of St. Moritz.

From Basel, I moved to Lucerne and the cheese selections kept on coming. In this picturesque medieval town, I made sure to taste Emmental au naturel. The well-known Swiss classic is attributed to the region of the same name and is the star ingredient for my beloved fondue. Even the unmelted version is heavenly – its slightly fruity, nutty and buttery notes and sweet aroma shone through.

THE PICTURESQUE MEDIEVAL TOWN OF LUCERNE

© SWITZERLAND TOURISM / JAN GEERK

My cheese cup runneth over in the mountain village of Engelberg. Located in the shadow of the mighty Mt. Titlis, one of the region’s highest summits, I was welcomed to the elegant Kempinski Palace Engelberg. After a sumptuous dinner with a sampling of regional cheeses of the Obwalden canton, I took a short stroll outside in the bracing mountain air before tucking myself into bed under a soft duvet. Unbeknownst to me, another memorable cheese experience awaited me the next morning.

BREAKFAST AT KEMPINSKI PALACE ENGELBERG

© KEMPINSKI PALACE ENGELBERG

As I was escorted to my table at the hotel’s Cattani restaurant for breakfast, I got my first glimpse of the ample buffet, which included a table laden with more than a dozen Swiss cheeses. I quickly proceeded to my seat so I could order and return to this bounty. I delayed my gratification, leisurely perusing bowls of yogurt, platters of fruit and wicker baskets overflowing with bread and still warm croissants. Then I couldn’t resist any longer.

There were precisely cut squares of creamy white and pale peach Alpine cheeses layered like a checkerboard, soft farm cheese with its reddish rind gently oozing out onto its slate tray, and plenty of Emmentaler with its distinct holes, sliced thinly and displayed like folded lace handkerchiefs. I took one of everything. Or maybe two.

I paired a slice of apple with a triangle of a cream coloured hard cheese – a sweet-meets-salt sensation. I smeared crispbread with soft cheese (similar to ricotta) and topped it with a spoonful of honeycomb. I finished my meal with a satisfied smile on my face and my dreams of fondue a distant memory.

I spent the rest of my time in Switzerland on trains and gondolas, ascending from Alpine towns and climbing mountains on foot, hopefully counteracting my cheese feasting. Funny enough, one of my most unforgettable cheese moments came not from a restaurant or a shop, but a cheese vending machine.

When I spotted the LeSuperbe, it quickly became the recipient of the last of my Swiss francs. Stocked with seasonal creations by Lustenberger & Durst, the machine is a celebrity in its own right, thanks to a video posted online, which received more than 22 million views. It garnered me one last glorious taste of Switzerland and its 500 years of cheesemaking history – a salty bite into a wedge of cream-coloured, extra-hard aged Sbrinz. So many cheeses, so little time. I felt like my exploration of Swiss cheese had just begun.