Age of Enlightenment

In the French region of Armagnac, timeless traditions continue with the production of a luxurious local brandy, complemented by confit, foie gras and other local delicacies

By Timothy Fowler

The fountain pen scribble in my travel notebook under the heading “Café de la Poste, Marais, Paris” takes me back to the time when I first discovered Armagnac. My travelling partner and I had enjoyed an incredible dinner at an authentic French bistro we’d stumbled upon. To end our meal, I had asked for a cognac. Instead, the waiter suggested I try Armagnac, a local brandy known around the globe. Burying my nose in its dried fruit and subtle vanilla aromas was a journey of its own, and it inspired me to learn more.

SAMPLING THE GOLDEN NECTAR

© MICHEL CAROSSIO

My research uncovered the region of Armagnac in the ancient province of Gascony, a three-hour train ride south of Paris, where old-fashioned Frenchness seems to be distilled into the food, wine and its beloved namesake spirit. Here, everything slows and seems more delicious. Armagnac is made up of fertile rural land full of vineyards, orchards and cereal crops, with ancient villages inhabited by authentic warm-hearted Gascons. Markets, wineries and Armagnac houses dot the countryside.

It is a place I could wander country roads, find comfortable accommodations in local inns, and dine on Gascon delights in family-operated restaurants featuring ingredients sourced locally, including wine and Armagnac. It taught me about great traditional Gascon foods, like luscious duck, goose and pork confit, buttery foie gras and locally made rillettes, paired with wine and spirits served with local hospitality. As one local said, “Armagnac is something you live.”

While nearby Cognac is more well known, thanks to robust international marketing, Armagnac is its laidback neighbour where distilleries and vineyards have been privately owned and operated by families for generations. The grapes grown to make Armagnac are similar to those grown in Cognac. The geography is alike, but the output is significantly different. Armagnac uses a different distillation process – column distillation – which leaves the spirit with more of the flavour. For the most part, Armagnac is produced on small estates, distilled on-site, and the variability year over year in the vintages is striking.

DISCOVERING THE VARIOUS AROMAS OF ARMAGNAC

© DELORD ARMAGNAC DISTILLERY

One key to the flavour of Armagnac is the wood barrels in which white Armagnac ages. White Armagnac is locally referred to as “eau de vie,” a freshly distilled spirit not yet technically Armagnac. “You have casks made of 55 different pieces of wood coming from up to 12 different oaks,” explained Florence Castarède, the sixth-generation family owner of the Armagnac house bearing her name. “Putting white Armagnac in two different wooden casks, you never know what’s going to happen between the wooden cask and the Armagnac. Each piece of wood adds a unique character. We’re a very small producer. It’s why we’re not very well known. For me, it’s about creating an artisanal product.”

Founded in 1832, Castarède is the oldest Armagnac house. It makes a special blend of Armagnac aged for a minimum of 25 years designed to be savoured by cigar connoisseurs. Florence explained that an emptied glass of Armagnac still smells deeply of the spirit even after a month on the counter. “That’s why I say Armagnac is best with a cigar because to smoke a cigar takes one hour,” she said. “We created an Armagnac that could stay the course. Both are made from a blessed terroir and human ingenuity.”

THE SPIRIT'S AGING PROCESS

© COLLECTION TOURISME GERS/BNIARMAGNAC

Age is another key factor determining the quality of the spirit. “Armagnac needs to age three years to earn the designation of Armagnac,” said Kate Hill, an American chef who has lived in Gascony for three decades. “But at that age, it is barely drinkable.” She prefers her Armagnac with some serious age. In oak casks, resting in humid and cool storehouses throughout the region, the spirit mellows as it ages, develops character and takes on more oaky notes. While on an Armagnac tour, Hill saw endless rows of casks aging in barns. When she commented on how quiet it was, her host told her, “Armagnac loves silence.”

On my next trip to France, I’m planning an extended visit to dive deeper into Armagnac, both the spirit and the region itself. I’ll roam through the local weekly markets offering the best of each season and keep discovering new Armagnacs to sip. Though I have made duck and goose confit and a proper cassoulet at home following instructions based on Hill’s culinary courses, being there in person is different. Surrounded by the warmth of the Gascon people and a bounty of local delicacies complemented by Armagnac, it’s a transcendent journey sure to linger in my mind.

SUNRISE ON ARMAGNAC REGION

© COLLECTION TOURISME GERS/CDT32/GÉRARD VILMINOT

MAKE IT AT HOME

With its infinitely rich aromatic palate, Armagnac is an excellent alternative cocktail ingredient that brings elegance and refinement. As a result, it can add an intriguing twist to your traditional recipes.

TOM COLLINS: 1½ oz Armagnac, 1¼ oz lemon juice, ¾ oz simple syrup, 3 oz club soda, Lemon wheel, Brandied cherry

Shake the Armagnac, lemon juice and syrup over ice and strain into a highball or Tom Collins glass. Fill the glass with club soda to taste before garnishing with a lemon wheel and a cherry.