Range: Volume 10

By

C A N A R Y I S L A N D S / V I E T N A M / K A Z A K H S TA N / U R U G U AY

ANTARCTIC FRONTIERS Voyage through the land of ice and penguins

V OL U M E 1 0

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What’s Inside

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From our Editorial Director

8

Contributors

In Brief

11 What’s new and notable in the world of travel.

Packing List

16 Gear up with these adventure-ready essentials.

Will Travel For

19 Dive into three seaweed salads, from Chile to China.

Interview

20 We touch base with O.G. explorer and G Adventures founder Bruce Poon Tip.

On the Cover From the eighth-floor observation deck of the National Geographic Endurance, watch icebergs sail by and spot the occasional seal or penguin on a solo voyage of its own.

Photo by Michael George

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Roundup

22 Take a walk on the wild side of natural wonders.

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PHOTOS: LARISA BLINOVA/GETTY IMAGES; MARKTUCAN/GETTY IMAGES (GOING PLACES).

Going Places

PHOTOS: JONO MELAMED (FEATURES); CHELSEA CLAUS/HX EXPEDITIONS (WHERE NEXT).

Features

Where Next

Seeing Utah’s Stars

24 Discover one of the world’s ultimate astrotourism destinations with the experts who know its skies like no one else.

Lanzarote’s Force of Nature

Ask a Local

34 From volcanic rock houses to otherworldly cactus gardens, the works of Spanish artist and activist César Manrique are deeply embedded in the landscape of his home island.

Postcards from Antarctica

64 HX Expeditions’ Alex McNeil unpacks the most awe-inspiring experiences in the Arctic.

42 Chinstrap penguins, colossal icebergs and wild weather: Join photographer Michael George on an unforgettable 12-day expedition to Antarctica.

Modern Nomads

50 Writer J.R. Patterson travels from coast to steppe through Kazakhstan, where timeless horse-and-yurt living blends with an urban destination on the rise.

A Perfect Day In

60 Explore Hanoi, Vietnam’s buzzing capital, like a local, from the early morning to late at night.

Port of Call

66 Everything you need to plan your pre- or post-cruise stay in Montevideo.

The Hotlist

70 Check in with trending Ensemble partners.

Outtake

72 One more moment in travel.

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2 Q U E E N S T R E E T E A S T 2 0 TH F L O O R TORONTO, ON M5C 2G7 EDITORIAL Editorial Director (on leave)

PROOFREADER Diane Carlson

Dominique Lamberton PRODUCTION Senior Director, Brand & Marketing

Acting Editorial Director

Andrew Elkin Executive Editor

Katie Sehl Senior Editor

President

Michael Johnson

Valerie Lenoir

SVP, Marketing

Printer

Shahla Lalani

Mi5

Robert Liwanag

Publisher

Jeff Willner

SVP, Operations

Kristina Boyce

ART Creative Design Director

SALES Senior Director, Partnership Marketing & Engagement

SVP, Partner Relations

Stefanie Sosiak

Danielle Clement

Photography Director

SVP, Strategy, Finance & Business Development

Senior Director, Partner Relations (Cruise)

Alison Woodcock

Lori Morgan

Rachel Grogan CONTRIBUTORS Shawna Cohen, Michael George, Christian Heurtelou, Jessica Huras, Tim Johnson, Jono Melamed, Renée Morrison, Julia Nimke, J.R. Patterson, Maya Visnyei

Senior Account Manager (Cruise)

RESEARCHER Corinna Reeves

Manager, Partner Marketing & Engagement

COPY EDITOR Christopher Korchin

Director, Partnership Marketing (Land)

Franca Iuele

Beth Butzlaff

VP, Destination & Specialty

Ian Elliott VP, Member Relations

Mark Stubbert

Jocelyn Saldana

Nicole Baker

Read more Range online rangetravel.com

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Ensemble is a leading travel organization comprised of top-tier travel agencies throughout the U.S. and Canada. As a valued client of one of our member agencies, you gain access to exclusive perks, amenities and experiences as well as expert advice and exceptional customer service from the foremost authorities in the travel industry. ensembletravel.com

Range (Volume 10). All rights reserved, Ensemble Travel Ltd.

Sustainable Practices Range is printed and distributed with Mi5 Print and Digital, a sustainable business partner and Earth-friendly printing company. Range is printed on Inspira text and cover and is a 100-percent sustainable sourced product. All fiber is sourced under a zero-deforestation commitment, produced using materials from rapidly renewable tree plantations. Inspira is fully PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification, one of the world’s largest forest certification systems) chain of custody-certified.

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For editorial inquiries, please email range@ensembletravel.com.

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Follow a star – and set sail for wonder The newest gem in the Princess® fleet, Star Princess® is your gateway to the world’s most breathtaking destinations. Take in endless ocean views from the soaring Piazza. Bask in the glow of the Dome — a sunlit retreat by day and a dazzling theater by night. Savor world-class dining and unwind in the two-story Lotus Spa®.

In Alaska, witness glaciers calving into the sea and whales breaching in icy waters. In the Caribbean, wake to turquoise seas and sugar-soft sands, where adventure awaits at every turn.

With Princess, wonder knows no bounds — discover the world aboard a star unlike any other.

Please contact your Ensemble Travel Advisor for more details.

*Please refer to your travel advisor for terms, conditions and definitions that apply to all bookings and limited time offer. Princess Cruises may modify, amend or update the terms and conditions of the specialty dining at any time with or without notice to guests. Offer is available Thursday, May 1, 2025 (12:00 a.m. PST), to Monday, June 30, 2025 (11:59 p.m. PST). ©2025, Princess Cruise Lines, Ltd. Princess®, MedallionClass®, Ocean®, and the Princess logo are trademarks of Princess Cruise Lines, Ltd. or its affiliates. All rights reserved. Ships of Bermudan and British registry.

Icon of the Seas SM

A WHOLE NEW CLASS OF ADVENTURE

Bigger, bolder, and brimming with nonstop excitement — Icon Class is rewrites the rulebook on vacations.

Take on Category 6, the largest waterpark at sea, or step up to the edge — literally — on the heart-pounding Crown’s Edge SM challenge. Kids, grown-ups, and everyone in between find infinite ways to play, from next-level entertainment to adrenaline-pumping activities. Craving something delicious? Feast your way around the world with over 40 dining and drinking options, from elevated cuisines to casual bites. And when it’s time to unwind, relax in accommodations built for every kind of traveler, from ultra-luxe suites to cozy rooms with breathtaking views. This is Icon Class — where every moment is an all-out celebration.

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details or to book.

BEST CRUISE LINE AND IN THE CARIBBEAN OVERALL 22 YEARS RUNNING Travel Weekly Readers’ Choice Awards

BEST CRUISE LINE AND IN THE CARIBBEAN OVERALL 22 YEARS RUNNING Travel Weekly Readers’ Choice Awards

All ship features, experiences are subject to change without notice. Perfect Day and CocoCay are trademarks of Royal Caribbean. ©2025 Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd. Ships’ registry: The Bahamas. 25018938 • 03/05/2025

Categor y 6 Waterpark

Icon of the Seas and Perfect Day at CocoCay, Bahamas

Crown’s Edge SM

PHOTO: NASKADEMINI.

Just Look Up Once upon a time, I traveled from Casablanca, on Morocco’s Atlantic coast, to the fringes of the Sahara in the southeast. After riding the train to Marrakech, I boarded a bus (where chickens freely roamed the center aisle), crossing the Atlas Mountains into Ouarzazate, then completed the journey in a shared taxi to my destination, Zagora — the end of the road (unless you’re joining a caravan to Timbuktu).

I don’t remember much about my time in Zagora (I was there for business, not pleasure), but I have vivid memories of the nearly two-day journey to get there: an overnight in Marrakech (where I tried goat’s head in the square), the hair-raising switchback road through the mountains (nerves of steel required), the fervid bustle of the taxi stands along the dusty route. Despite so many broken conversations reminding me that I was a foreigner, and even though each leg took me deeper into the unfamiliar, I felt vital and refreshed.

I felt this sensation again while working on Range’s Adventure issue — a collection of stories, places and points of view that shows the surprising and inspiring diversity our world has to offer. Inside, you’ll find Michael George’s images of Antarctica, a land of vast mountains and ice sheets, not to mention scores of heart-melting, element-defying penguins (see page 42).

We also transport you to the volcanic landscapes of Lanzarote, the Canary Island that owes its preservation to a visionary designer, artist and activist who made it the canvas for his greatest works (page 34).

And if these adventures don’t remind you of how wide our world is, just look up: In Utah, a certified stargazing mecca, clear skies and an absence of light pollution make for unparalleled views of the Milky Way and other celestial objects we can only contemplate from here on Earth (page 24).

Of course, you don’t have to go to the ends of the Earth to find inspiration: Even a detour close to home can take you to places you never imagined. There is an adventure waiting out there for every one of us. You just have to look. 

Andrew Elkin Acting Editorial Director

We’re online!

Find more immersive content, plus expertly curated travel guides and exclusive offers, at rangetravel.com

@RangebyEnsemble

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Contributors

Jono Melamed

Shawna Cohen

P H OTO G R A P H E R

WRITER

Home base Tucson, Arizona My favorite travel companion is my dog, Leonard. It’s hard to find anyone who gets as excited as I do about simply being outside in the desert — and even harder to find a person who enjoys rolling around in the dust as much as Leonard.

When I’m not shooting for Range, I work with photographs in a variety of mediums. In Tucson, I have a portrait studio where I use a process called wet plate collodion to create tintype portraits — the same kind widely made in the 1800s.

Seeing Utah’s Stars — page 24

Maya Visnyei P H OTO G R A P H E R Hometown and home base Toronto My next travel destinations are Serbia with my parents and sister, as well as Hungary and Spain. My family moved to Canada from Serbia when I was nine years old, and though I return to the region regularly, I haven’t been back with my parents in over a decade. It will be a special trip for us as a family.

When I’m not collaborating with Range, I work as a photographer and director for various international publications and brands, including Condé Nast Traveler, Bon Appétit, Food & Drink and IKEA. Lanzarote’s Force of Nature — page 34

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Hometown and home base Toronto My top travel memory is climbing Mount Kenya over four days in 1996 and reaching Point Lenana just in time for sunrise. At an elevation of 16,354 feet, it’s the country’s highest peak that can be reached without climbing gear.

When I’m not writing for Range, I write about wellness, culture and trends for publications like The Globe and Mail and Experience magazine, or I photograph people and places to capture humanity or the unexpected.

A Perfect Day in Hanoi — page 60

PHOTO: CLAIRE SIBONNEY (SHAWNA COHEN).

Hometown Leonia, New Jersey

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Port Moresby Kiriwina Islands Torres Strait Conflict Islands Alotau Cairns

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*Have It All Early Booking Bonus Offer and its elements (collectively, “Offer”) are subject to full terms, conditions, and restrictions, contact Ensemble travel advisor for more details. Available only on new bookings, with limited availability, for select cruises sailing Summer 2026 and beyond. A deposit is required for all stateroom guests. Offer may be modifi ed or withdrawn at any time. Ships’ Registry: The Netherlands.

TEXT: KATIE SEHL. PHOTO: JOHNNY AFRICA/UNSPLASH (NORAVANK MONASTERY, ARMENIA).

GOING PLACES

DESTINATION TO WATCH

Explore Armenia’s Wild Side No need to “scream inside your heart” here. Between off-roading at Yell Extreme Park and wild skating or rope jumping on a Scream of Soul outing, it’s no wonder the PATWA International Travel Awards have named Armenia the Destination of the Year for Adventure Tourism. Feel the need to shout from the mountaintops? Take part in one of Shanti Travel’s multiday hiking tours with summits of the four-peaked volcanic massif, Mount Aragats.

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IN BRIEF

ON TRACK

All Aboard Europe’s Rail Revival A rail renaissance is sweeping across Europe, driven by investment in new networks and the rise in sustainable travel. Last year, Rail Europe added routes in Benelux, Eastern Europe and Denmark to its 33-country network. A new route between Paris and Berlin, operated by Deutsche Bahn and SNCF, cuts travel time from 13 to eight hours. Meanwhile, with the 2025 Jubilee underway, Italo has expanded its service beyond Italy’s borders to destinations like Ljubljana and Zagreb.

EARTH-FRIENDLY

Asia’s First Wildlife Adventure Park Thirty-six species of animals. Thirty-two acres of lush forests and vast caverns. And nearly 7,000 native trees and shrubs.

Opened in March, Rainforest Wild Asia is the newest addition to Singapore’s Mandai Wildlife Reserve. More than 75 percent of the animals that call it home are endangered, including the Philippine spotted deer, the rarest member of the species.

The fun continues with a host of family-friendly activities, such as the Canopy Jump, where thrill-seekers can experience a free fall from a 66-foot-high platform.

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TEXT: ROBERT LIWANAG (ON TRACK, EARTH-FRIENDLY). PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BELMOND (ON TRACK); MANDAI WILDLIFE GROUP (EARTH-FRIENDLY).

GOING PLACES

GOING PLACES

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IN BRIEF

CRUISE NEWS

A New Wave of Mega-ships

TEXT: KATIE SEHL (CRUISE NEWS, TRAVEL SIZE); ROBERT LIWANAG (NOW OPEN).

PHOTOS: ROYAL CARIBBEAN STAR OF THE SEAS (CRUISE NEWS); MEOW MEOW TWEET (TRAVEL SIZE); LIOR DAHAN/UNSPLASH (NOW OPEN).

The launch of Royal Caribbean’s Star of the Seas from Port Canaveral, Florida, this August marks a sea change in the way we cruise: bigger and more over-the-top than ever. With six record-breaking waterslides and more than 40 dining venues, the 5,610-passenger sister to the world’s largest cruise ship, Icon of the Seas, is the latest in what will become a fleet of four mega-ships by 2027, with options to add two more. And in September, Brilliant Lady will embark on its inaugural sail as the fourth supersized vessel in Virgin Voyages’ Lady fleet.

TRAVEL SIZE

Don’t Sweat Your Deodorant Thwart errant odors on the fly with Meow Meow Tweet’s vegan, all-natural deodorant line, packaged in backyard-compostable push-pop tubes.

Made with certified organic and fair-trade plant and mineral ingredients, the sensitive-skin formula means there’s no need to stop at your pits: Why not deodorize your feet and décolletage, too? With scents like cedar spruce, eucalyptus lemon and rose geranium, you’ll reach your destination smelling like a breath of fresh air.

Meow Meow Tweet Deodorant Stick, US$5.85 (0.5 oz) meowmeowtweet.com

NOW OPEN

3 New Hiking Routes THE WADI RUM TRAIL, JORDAN See the dramatic sands, cliffs and canyons of Jordan’s most legendary valley from an entirely new vantage point. Developed in collaboration with local Bedouin tribes, this new 75-mile desert trail offers an exciting mix of hiking, scrambling and rock climbing.

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SNOWIES ALPINE WALK, AUSTRALIA The view alone from Mount Kosciuszko, Australia’s highest peak, justifies this four-day, 35-mile hike.

Take in snowcapped mountains in winter and wildflower meadows in summer — and keep your eyes peeled for the occasional kangaroo or wombat.

THE PATH OF PEACE, ITALY Trentino’s significance to European history is felt along this revamped 308-mile mountain route, which takes trekkers from the Tonale Pass to Marmolada, passing fortresses, trenches and fortifications preserved from the First World War.

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GOING PLACES

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IN BRIEF

ON TREND

Surf’s Up

READING LIST

Dive into These Beach Reads ONE GOLDEN SUMMER, CARLEY FORTUNE The latest from the author of This Summer Will Be Different is set in a fictional lakeside town in Ontario, but may just inspire reallife getaways. Her last novel, set in Prince Edward Island, sparked a bump in tourism to the province’s red shores.

ATMOSPHERE, TAYLOR JENKINS REID Billed as a love story among the stars, Jenkins Reid’s follow-up to Daisy Jones & The Six takes readers to Houston in the 1980s, where new recruits prepare for the liftoff of NASA’s Space Shuttle Program. The epic tale follows Joan, a capcom, who finds love that rocks her world.

ROOM ON THE SEA, ANDRÉ ACIMAN By the author of Call Me

by Your Name, Room on the Sea is a collection of three novellas bound by obsessional love, missed connections and regret. In one story, a chance encounter with a mysterious guest at an Amalfi Coast hotel alters everything for a group of friends.

LOCAL LINGO

Hwyl (n.) A two-syllable, four-letter Welsh word with infinite significance.

Pronounced “hoo-eel,” hwyl is used in Wales to express the pure state of euphoria that arises from being fully in the moment.

“Basically, it means you feel really good,” says Maxine Hughes, resident Welsh-language expert on the TV series Welcome to Wrexham, for Visit Wales’ Feel the Hwyl campaign, celebrating 2025 as the Year of Croeso (“welcome”).

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TEXT: KATIE SEHL (ON TREND, READING LIST, LOCAL LINGO).

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF BEYOND THE CLUB (ON TREND); COURTESY OF FABER & FABER (READING LIST); JONATHAN MABEY/UNSPLASH (LOCAL LINGO).

Top surfers, such as Brazilian three-time world champion Gabriel Medina, will be among the first to catch waves at the world’s largest wave pool in Beyond the Club, a new surf and wellness complex in São Paulo. Spanning more than 290,000 square feet, the pool uses Wavegarden technology to generate more than 20 types of waves — tech that will soon be used in up to 70 new projects around the world.

Across the pond, plans are underway to open London’s first wave pool, in Edmonton, with tech from Canadian engineering firm Endless Surf.

Why cruise when you can sail on a Cunard® Queen?

The finest restaurants and bars at sea. Unique enrichment that sparks your imagination. Wellness opportunities designed to nurture your mind and body. When you step on board Queen Elizabeth,® you’re free to enjoy all these Cunard® moments – and so much more – as you’re whisked away to the sun-kissed Caribbean on a voyage you’ll never forget.

Eastern Caribbean Roundtrip Miami w 12 nights w Oct 16, 2025 Balcony Fares from $2,480* Ask your Ensemble Travel Advisor about the exclusive benefits available on select Ensemble Hosted Voyages *Restrictions apply. © 2025 Carnival plc. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda. The Cunard logo and logotype and Queen Elizabeth are registered trademarks of Carnival plc, an English company trading as Cunard. All rights reserved in the United States and other countries.

Please contact your Ensemble Travel Advisor for more details.

GOING PLACES

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PACKING LIST

Articles of Adventure

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AirTag Case

Action Camera

Do-it-all Bandana

Never lose your AirTag (and whatever it’s tracking) again with an attachable case bearing the name of your favorite city, such as London, New York or Tokyo.

The SABRÉMOJI City Charm, US$69 us.maisondesabre.com

Whether surfing the dunes of the Sahara or pushing a pram across Shibuya, this drop-proof, waterproof and dustproof wearable (with pro stabilization) lets you capture it all hands-free.

DJI Action 2, US$279 dji.com

Look and smell good sporting a funkresistant neckerchief that doubles as a UPF 50+ sun blocker and quick-dry towel. Plus, feel good knowing it’s fashioned from recycled plastic.

Bandana Towel, US$37 nomadix.co

Stow Sack

Gear Patch

All-weather Pen

Forgo cargo pants in favor of a bonus pocket with added security, a strong adjustable cord strap, a quick-access mesh compartment and backpackattachment toggles.

Algir Lanyard Pocket, US$35 klattermusen.com

Be ready for any snag with these peeland-seal deadstock fabric stickers, tough enough to patch up backpack, windbreaker and tent tears — and to withstand your next tumble cycle.

Indigo Denim Dove Pocket, US$13.99, nosopatches.com

Leave no notes behind with this small but mighty stylus, equipped with a rugged grip, sturdy clip, bolt-action mechanism and proprietary ink that defies even the wettest conditions.

No. 20K Mini Bolt-Action Pen, US$13.95, riteintherain.com

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TEXT: KATIE SEHL.

Get ready for anything and everything with these multiuse, weatherproof essentials.

GOING PLACES

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PACKING LIST

Change-and-go Poncho No dressing room? No problem. Go from swimsuit to birthday suit to business suit under the cover of a plush and roomy, highly absorbent poncho, made with sustainable threads.

Sundown Extra-Warm Poncho, US$90 slowtide.co

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T H E G A L A PAG O S H A S N E V E R LOOKED BET TER The Galapagos Islands–where the planet’s wildest ideas come to life.

This extraordinary destination deserves an equally extraordinary way to experience it, and that’s where we come in.

Discover why Nothing Comes Close to Celebrity Flora in the Galapagos Islands.

Plan your Galapagos vacation today by contacting your Ensemble travel advisor.

*Flights on us (“Offer”): Offer applies to new, individual bookings made between 03/01/25 and 07/01/25 for select 10, 11 and 16-night Galapagos cruise packages aboard Celebrity Flora, departing between 03/01/25 and 12/26/27. Offer includes round trip air fare, valued up to $750 per person including air taxes and fees, departing from US or Canadian gateways, booked via Flights by Celebrity. Air must be booked via Flights by Celebrity during the Offer Period and prior to final cruise payment due date or within 150 days of cruise booking, whichever occurs first. Guests with independent air arrangements may choose a $500 per person cruise fare savings instead of airfare via Flights by Celebrity. Offer applies to the first two guests in the stateroom, is subject to availability, subject to change, capacity controlled, non-transferable, not combinable with any other offer, and may be withdrawn at any time without notice. Cancellation of Air Tickets: Air tickets may be purchased on a non-refundable or refundable basis and are each subject to the cancellation terms of the applicable airlines and Flights by Celebrity. Offer available to residents of the United States and Canada. Refer to Cruise Ticket Contract for additional terms and conditions. Celebrity reserves the right to correct any errors, inaccuracies, or omissions, and change or update fares, fees, and surcharges at any time without prior notice. ©2025 Celebrity Cruises Inc. Ships’ registry: Ecuador

GOING PLACES

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WILL TRAVEL FOR

Seaweed Salads Who says the best greens grow on land? From ocean to plate, these seaweed salads are making waves worldwide.

PHOTOS: LARISA BLINOVA/GETTY IMAGES (CHILE); PICTURE PARTNERS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO ( JAPAN); WAQAR HUSSAIN/GETTY IMAGES (CHINA).

B y J e s s i c a H u ra s

JAPAN

Hijiki no nimono While this umami-packed side dish is served at room temperature, it brims with slow-simmered flavor. Dried hijiki — a dark, wiry algae — is first soaked, then joins sautéed carrots, shiitake mushrooms, fried tofu and edamame or lotus root in a dashi broth with soy sauce and sake. The mix gently cooks before cooling, yielding a savory, slightly crunchy bite. Where to try it: Teishoku restaurants in Kyoto, like Oshokuji Dokoro Asuka, often feature hijiki no nimono on their set menus.

CHINA

Liáng bàn hǎi dài sī CHILE

Ensalada de cochayuyo Cochayuyo, a briny seaweed native to Chile’s coast, is the star of this simple salad. A dietary staple for the Indigenous Mapuche people, the brown bull kelp has been harvested from Chile’s shores for millennia, and is valued for its fiber, iodine and other mineral content. To prepare it in a salad, dried tubular stipes are rehydrated and boiled to soften their firm texture. They are then diced or shredded and combined with chopped tomatoes, onions and cilantro. A touch of olive oil, a squeeze of lemon juice and a dash of salt tie it all together with a burst of fresh flavor. Where to try it: Look for the salad in restaurants across southern Chile, including the charming Restaurante Viento Sur in Puerto Montt.

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Typically served as an appetizer, this punchy seaweed salad is a bold way to kick off a meal. Long noodle-like strands of fresh or rehydrated kelp are boiled, then tossed in a heady mix of soy sauce, sesame oil, raw garlic, vinegar and ginger. A final pour of chili pepper-infused hot oil lightly cooks the aromatics, mellowing their zing.

Where to try it: For a Michelin Bib Gourmand-approved take, head to Lu Bo Lang, a Shanghai institution known for its Jiangnan cuisine.

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INTERVIEW

PHOTO: JULIA NIMKE.

GOING PLACES

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GOING PLACES

Bruce Poon Tip

INTERVIEW

Q&A Range How do G Adventures’ newest offerings tap into the latest travel trends?

Bruce Poon Tip Geluxe came to be because we saw that mature travelers are now staying active longer.

The oldest members of Gen X, for instance, turn 60 this year — they’ve been around the block and they want to visit unique destinations. Before, it was places like Peru and Costa Rica, but now you have people who want to go to Kazakhstan and Albania. Meanwhile, Solo-ish appeals to people whose travel partners aren’t as active or adventurous as they are. These days, more and more couples are taking the time to have separate vacations — and Solo-ish responds to that.

After 35 years of innovation in travel, the pioneering founder of Torontobased G Adventures remains focused on the future.

By Robert Liwanag

I

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n 1990, while on a backpacking trip through Asia, Bruce Poon Tip had a lightbulb moment: He could combine his twin passions of adventure and entrepreneurship to foster the travel style he adored. His idea? Small-group tours of 12 people utilizing local transportation to explore less-traveled countries like Ecuador and Belize. “It was unheard of,” Poon Tip recalls. “No one was doing travel this way.” Over the years, what became G Adventures expanded its focus to support local guides, establish nonprofit organizations like Planeterra (which provides resources and training to local businesses) and offer affordable experiences that make expedition travel more accessible.

This year will be G Adventures’ “most innovative” yet, says Poon Tip. Two newer additions to its line of travel styles include Geluxe, which blends active itineraries with luxury stays and elevated dining, and Solo-ish, group tours designed exclusively for solo travelers. This fall, the company will celebrate its 35th anniversary in Jordan, a longtime tourism partner, with an itinerary that starts and ends in Amman, including stops at landmarks like Petra and Wadi Rum, as well as the Dead Sea. “We’re 35 years old and I still feel we’re doing really cool things,” he says. “And that comes from a sense of community — the people behind me allow us to do extraordinary work.”

R Which tech innovation excites you the most?

BPT We still don’t fully understand how artificial intelligence will impact travel, but it’s certainly going to change how people research destinations. With more information at their fingertips, people can be more purposeful, and that’s what we need: people who travel because they actually want to see a very specific country that matches their values.

R What’s next for sustainable travel?

BPT In the next five years, you’re going to see travel companies try to meet their 2030 climate goals, but the spectrum of sustainability is much wider than that. It includes visiting some of the poorest countries in the world and making sure their communities benefit from tourism.

People often point to the environment and carbon emissions, but I hope that other side of sustainable travel gets more representation, respect and understanding in the coming years as well.

R Is there a destination you’d love to revisit?

BPT I can return to the Galapagos Islands over and over again, but one of the best trips I’ve ever taken was a journey along the Karakoram Highway, which follows the ancient Silk Road routes. It starts in Ürümqi, China, and extends all the way to northern Pakistan. I made that trip in the mid-’90s, and of course, Pakistan has been through a lot in the last 30 years. I would like to do that trip in a Jeep. 

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GOING PLACES

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ROUNDUP

Above and Beyond Explore nature’s outer limits from these elevated walkways.

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NORWAY

VIETNAM

Stegastein Viewpoint

Golden Bridge

Brave the steep and narrow bends of the Aurlandsfjellet national tourist route to reach this conveyor belt-like ramp that juts 98 feet out from the mountainside. Made of steel, glass and laminated Nordic pine, the 2,133-foot-high platform peers over the Aurlandsfjord arm of the world’s second-longest fjord as it runs through Aurlandsdalen Valley — a.k.a.

Norway’s Grand Canyon. Also grand: With windows framing a panoramic view, the on-site latrine is considered one of the most beautiful public restrooms in the world.

A trip up the world’s longest nonstop single-track cable car brings you to Sun World Ba Na Hills, a French colonial villa turned mountaintop theme park, home to alpine coasters, Debay Wine Cellar, a colossal Buddha statue and the Golden Bridge. Cradled by two open hands — covered in cracks and moss to look weathered by time — the nearly 500-foot-long timber walkway wraps around the peak of Nui Chua Mountain, soaring almost 4,600 feet above sea level and offering sweeping views of the forested slopes and beaches of Da Nang.

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PHOTOS: ROBERT BYE/UNSPLASH (NORWAY); MARKTUCAN/GETTY IMAGES (VIETNAM).

By K atie Sehl

PHOTOS: KATHERINE/ADOBE STOCK (AUSTRALIA); MAXIME BROUILLET (CANADA).

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CANADA

Kalbarri Skywalk

Peggy’s Cove Viewing Platform

The Murchison River is a long way down from this cliffside footpath that offers glimpses of 400-millionyear-old sandstone through the metal grates beneath your hiking boots. Two V-shaped vantage points project 56 and 82 feet beyond the gorge edge — taking you roughly 12 steps farther than the Grand Canyon Skywalk. Follow the Loop walk through Kalbarri National Park for a peek through Nature’s Window, an opening between layers of Tumblagooda Sandstone, then head south along Indian Ocean Drive for a dip in the hot-pink Hutt Lagoon.

A lighthouse watches over the windswept Peggy’s Cove in Nova Scotia, where a 14,000-square-foot platform lets visitors catch salt spray with no chance of being carried away by a rogue wave. The eastern white cedar decking that covers the slippery rocks, chosen to match the fishing village’s shingled wooden sheds, will age over time to a similar silver-gray hue.

Reminiscent of the lobster traps and fishnets strewn about the wharves, steel-mesh guardrails embrace the area’s maritime roots and withstand the elements.

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Seeing

Utah’s

Stars

U N I T E D S TAT E S O F A M E R I C A

B y D o m i n i q u e L a m b e r t o n — P h o t o s by J o n o M e l a m e d

Why the western U.S. state, with its dark skies and out-of-this-world landscapes, is the ultimate astrotourism destination.

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veryone, let’s give the sky a big thumbs-up,” our astronomy guide, Zoie Brooks, shouts under a dark, cloudless expanse beaming with an infinite number of celestial objects. The group of us gathered around her obliges, enthusiastically extending our arms above our heads. “How many galaxies are under your thumb right now?” Zoie waits a beat before projecting the answer into her portable voice amplifier: “Ten million galaxies! Each galaxy has billions to trillions of stars, and most stars, scientists predict, have planets around them.”

Gasps of astonishment ripple through the crowd, not for the first time this evening. “Okay, I’m giving the sky a round of applause,” utters a fellow stargazer to no one in particular. There are about 20 of us here for Stargazing Zion’s two-hour tour, held at its observation site in a large field a 35-minute drive northwest of Springdale, Utah, the gateway to Zion National Park. We’ve just risen from our zero-gravity beanbag chairs, each paired with a set of binoculars and a blanket, and we’re now huddled next to five stateof-the-art telescopes. Around us, Zion’s distinctive Navajo sandstone cliffs outline the horizon; above, it’s all stars, galaxies, planets, nebulae and globular clusters. Here, just beyond the western boundary of Zion, a certified International Dark Sky Park since 2021, the Sky Quality Meter-Lens (SQM-L) value hovers around 21.2 — perfect for brilliant visibility of stars and the Milky Way. In Utah, exceptional night-sky conditions like these aren’t an anomaly: The state is a dark-sky mecca. Since 2007, when southeastern Utah’s Natural Bridges National Monument became the first-ever International Dark Sky Park certified by U.S.-based non-profit DarkSky International, five more national monuments, nine state parks, all five national parks, one county park and five Dark Sky Communities in the state have followed. Today, there are 26 International Dark Sky Places in Utah, the highest concentration anywhere on the planet. This makes the state the ideal destination for astrotourism: Drawn by phenomena such as solar eclipses and meteor showers, travelers

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are increasingly seeking out dark-sky destinations and activities. Utah’s southwestern corner is the backdrop to my own astrotourism adventure, away from the lights of any major city. (From Las Vegas, where I flew into, it’s a two-and-a-half-hour drive to Springdale, my first stop.) Given that some 80 percent of North Americans cannot see our galaxy, the Milky Way, from their homes due to light pollution, it’s no wonder there’s a pull to venture into the dark.

Stargazing Zion’s co-founder, astronomer Matthias Schmitt, knows the power of this pull. In 2020, he moved from New York City to join the National Park Service as dark-sky coordinator at Cedar Breaks National Monument in southwestern Utah. “On one of my first nights here, I looked up and I didn’t recognize any constellations because there were so many stars,” he says. Born and raised in Germany, Matthias worked in finance in New York for more than a decade, before pivoting to producing a STEM-focused animated children’s TV show. His work on the program led him to visit Oregon for the total solar eclipse in 2017 — an experience that changed his life. “I went back to New York, became active in an astronomy club there, signed up for my master’s in astronomy and I’ve been traveling around the world to see eclipses ever since.”

Shortly after arriving in Utah, Matthias met local entrepreneurs Hannah Barry and Adam Freeman through the astronomy community in St. George, southern Utah’s largest city, located about an hour’s drive west from Springdale. In 2021, the three launched Stargazing Zion. Their tours, offered from March to November (and upon request during the winter months), allow guests to take in the night sky as astronomy guides share information about the immensity of the universe and point out constellations, such as Sagittarius and Lyra, explaining the ancient stories behind them. The guides also queue up telescopic views of celestial bodies, like Saturn (Matthias says they’ve had people burst into tears upon seeing the planet and its rings), the Hercules Cluster (one of the brightest star clusters visible from the Northern Hemisphere) and the spiral Whirlpool Galaxy. “We’ve

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OPENING SPREAD On a dark night at Cedar Breaks National Monument, our own galaxy — the Milky Way — is front and center in the sky.

RIGHT The striking colors of the rock formations, and their sheer scale, are worth the long and bumpy ride to White Pocket in Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, just south across the state line in Arizona.

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“You are seeing a distant galaxy that is 2.5 million light years away from us — the farthest thing you can see with the naked eye.”

created an entertaining scientific program that even a seven-year-old can understand,” says Matthias. “We want to give people a sense of awe.”

One such moment of awe occurs for me on my bean bag, when Zoie shows us how to spot the Andromeda Galaxy, our closest galactic neighbor. Zoie’s laser pointer projects a shimmering green beam through the sky as she traces the “W” of Cassiopeia, then, from one of the constellation’s points, draws the laser toward a faint area by Andromeda’s belt. “If you look slightly above or to the side of this, and focus with your peripheral vision, you’ll see an oval-shaped smudge — that is the Andromeda Galaxy.” She instructs us to pick up our binoculars, which will make it easier to find.

Then, as we all begin to locate the galactic blotch: more gasps. “You are seeing a distant galaxy that is 2.5 million light years away from us,” says Zoie, “the farthest thing you can see with the naked eye.”

There are more astronomical objects — and moments of awe — waiting for me the next night. But first, there’s a full day’s light to utilize, and I’m up before dawn to catch the first shuttle bus into Zion National Park. As I walk toward a pre-hike coffee in Springdale, the features that make this town an International Dark Sky Community are on display.

Springdale received the designation in 2023, thanks to its efforts in managing light pollution and preserving the night sky. Both homes and businesses use dark sky-compliant lighting (the streetlights cast a warm, downward glow), and even the pedestrians at this hour are mindful: A runner jogs by with a light just bright enough for them to see a few steps ahead.

A morning in Zion National Park reveals that southwestern Utah’s landscapes are an apt companion to its dark skies: The combination of the park’s lush river valley, imposing red cliffs and majestic slot canyons is otherworldly. I take the shuttle to the sixth stop, the Grotto, to walk a portion of the West Rim Trail toward Angels Landing, a 1,488-foot-tall rock formation that

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requires a permit to climb and rewards hikers with epic views of Zion Canyon. Then I board the shuttle again, riding to the last stop, Temple of Sinawava, and join the flocks of trekkers outfitted in waders and waterproof boots on the path that leads to the Narrows: a hike that steers you through the tightest section of the canyon, directly into the Virgin River.

As I amble along the Riverside Walk, a mother mule deer and her fawn scamper across the water. But I don’t wade in with them, as I need to make it to my next location before sundown.

A 90-minute drive north lands me at Cedar Breaks National Monument, a 6,155-acre site (and a designated Dark Sky Park) that sits more than 10,000 feet above sea level. I’m glad I arrive well before nightfall, so I can lay my eyes on this geographical wonder: a half-mile-deep amphitheater filled with an endless sea of spires, arches and hoodoos carved into the red rock. If someone told me I’d just stepped onto another planet, I’d believe them.

A crowd of roughly 40 people has gathered here under another clear sky for tonight’s Dark Sky Tour — free public events that take place Friday, Saturday and Sunday evenings from March to October. After a 30-minute astronomy talk outside the visitor center, we follow a trail lined with red lights to Point Supreme Overlook, the monument’s main viewing deck (red light is a must for stargazing, since it doesn’t impede night vision like bright white light does). There, Matthias is waiting for us — he is leading the stargazing portion of the evening — along with staff and volunteers who are stationed next to the telescopes that have been set up.

Matthias kicks things off by pointing out a basic asterism: the Big Dipper. “Here’s the handle and here’s the bucket,” he says. “Find the two back stars of the bucket, connect them and point to Polaris, our North Star.” Polaris is 430 light years away, Matthias tells us, before providing some context: “The light that

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RIGHT Sunset enhances the hues in the sedimentary rocks at Cedar Breaks National Monument. From pastel pink to bright orange to chalky white, each strip of color represents a different era in geological history.

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THIS SPREAD Brilliant moonlight can make it possible to hike without a headlamp, and a nighttime visit to White Pocket reveals both the star-studded sky and the mesmerizing striations and contours in the rock.

NEXT SPREAD, RIGHT PAGE Hikers contemplate a soaring view of Zion Canyon from the trail leading to Observation Point.

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U N I T E D S TAT E S O F A M E R I C A

Navigating the road’s bumps and curves in the tour guide’s truck is what I imagine traversing the moon’s craters might feel like.

you still see from the sun on the horizon took about eight minutes to get here; the light from Saturn took about 72 minutes to get here; and the light you see from Polaris left there 430 years ago, barely after we invented the printing press.”

For Matthias, sharing knowledge about the night sky with the public is paramount, which is why, in addition to operating Stargazing Zion, he’s passionate about maintaining his role as dark-sky coordinator at Cedar Breaks. The challenge, he says, is to get people to connect with an environment that we are largely detached from: “How do you tell people about the stars, when we see one star every day, our sun, and we don’t really notice it?” Inevitably, he’s found, when people take the time to contemplate the night sky, it leads to wonderment — and big questions. “The other night I did a tour and I talked about the immensity of the universe, and someone asked me, ‘What does it all mean?’ I cannot tell you what it all means. I can explain it from a scientific perspective, but what it means is something that we must find and figure out for ourselves. What does it mean to you?”

The next night, at the world’s first DarkSky-certified resort, I ponder Matthias’ question. Under Canvas Lake Powell–Grand Staircase is located less than 10 miles from the Arizona border, a two-and-a-half-hour drive southeast of Cedar Breaks. In 2023, the luxury glamping outfit, which has 12 locations throughout the U.S., teamed up with DarkSky International to create the DarkSky Approved Lodging certification program. To qualify, properties must be within one of the organization’s designated parks or have a SQM-L reading of at least 21.2. And, among other requirements, the Milky Way must be visible to the naked eye.

The resort is the perfect place to land after spending a day exploring more of the region’s spellbinding topography. White Pocket, just south of the state line in Arizona’s Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, is a striking white- and red-colored sandstone en-

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vironment, its fantastical rock formations sculpted by the elements over millions of years. The sandy, boulder-studded road that leads to this remote site requires a high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle, and navigating the road’s bumps and curves in the tour guide’s truck is what I imagine traversing the moon’s craters might feel like. That feeling grows tenfold when we finally arrive, and I wander White Pocket’s surface, admiring the cream and crimson layers that form supernatural swirling patterns in the sandstone.

I pull up to Under Canvas as the sun is dipping below the horizon and settle into my safari-like tent, equipped with a plush king bed, ensuite bathroom, wood stove and USB-powered lanterns. As far as astrotourism experiences go, this is a shining star. The resort offers a calendar of events, including astronomy talks and full-moon hikes, plus plenty of ways to take in the sky at your leisure, from peering into the on-site telescopes to observing the cosmos from your tent’s above-the-bed viewing window. After soaking up the last of the sun’s glow from my deck chair, I wander to the lobby tent, following footpaths illuminated by solar-powered lighting. I order a cosmic lemonade (purple, thanks to butterfly pea flower) and bring it to the yoga deck, away from the roaring firepits where guests are roasting marshmallows for s’mores.

Stretched out on the wooden platform, I look up at the sky, which, after two nights of stargazing, I’m feeling more familiar with and connected to. Right away I spot the Big Dipper, the Northern Cross and the Teapot asterism within Sagittarius (my new favorite, since Zoie showed us that the Milky Way is the “steam” coming from its spout). I scan a bit longer with my naked eye before opening my newly downloaded SkySafari app, recommended by Matthias, which helps me pinpoint Saturn and a multitude of constellations. After a while, I set my phone down and simply reach my arm skyward, marveling at the unending galaxies that are right under my thumb. 

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3 More Stellar Darksky Places MONT-MÉGANTIC, QUEBEC With an observatory perched atop the 3,625foot peak, the world’s first International Dark Sky Reserve is a destination for 50,000 amateur and professional stargazers every year. Located 145 miles from Montreal, visit in August to catch the Perseid meteor shower.

ARKAROOLA WILDERNESS SANCTUARY, SOUTH AUSTRALIA This 236-square-mile conservation area in the Outback is home to six designated observatories and a variety of stargazing experiences, including the Ridgetop Sleepout, which allows aspiring astronomers to camp under the stars in a uniquely exposed and elevated location.

PIC DU MIDI, FRANCE Rising more than 9,400 feet in the Pyrenees of southwest France, this peak is as famous for alpine skiing and mountaineering as it is for its dark skies. Take the cable car to the top to visit the observatory where you can be above the clouds and under the stars all at once.

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CANARY ISLANDS

Lanzarote’s Force of Nature B y K a t i e S e h l — P h o t o s by M a y a V i s n y e i

On the easternmost of Spain’s Canary Islands, the name César Manrique is synonymous with sustainable tourism.

While the artist and activist is less known off the island, his legacy stretches far beyond its shores.

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he telluric pull of the island reached César Manrique across the Atlantic in Manhattan.

Among some 200 photographs of communities mounted on hollow walls for the 1964 exhibition Architecture Without Architects at the Museum of Modern Art, the then-45-year-old artist found himself transfixed by the pure forms of La Geria, a village built on the black volcanic ash of his homeland, Lanzarote.

A short time later, feeling “an imperative need to go back to the soil,” as he wrote to a friend, he packed up the Lower East Side studio loaned to him gratis by Nelson Rockefeller, bid adios to the art crowd — Andy Warhol, Mark Rothko, et al. — and returned to the most easterly of the Canary Islands for good.

It’s easy to picture what Lanzarote would look like today had its “most famous son” never come home: paved paradise lined with Big Mac billboards, electricity cables scribbled across the horizon and high-rises hoarding the sky. Instead, the island’s barren landscapes — weathered by coarse sirocco winds from the Sahara and molded by lava flows from a series of eruptions between 1730 and 1736, and again in 1824 — are among the most protected in the world. More than 40 percent of the territory (an area nearly six times the size of Manhattan) is guarded by multiple designations, from Timanfaya National Park, where some fissures in the Montañas del Fuego emit enough heat to fry eggs, to the lunar-like basalt fields, a UNESCO Global Geopark, where the European Space Agency trains for missions. In 1993, UNESCO granted the island Biosphere Reserve status, and in 2015 it became the first place to receive the Biosphere Responsible Tourism certification.

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OPENING SPREAD ​​The spiral staircase at Mirador del Río (left) winds up to panoramic views of the Chinijo Archipelago, north of Lanzarote, in a style that echoes the circular hollows of La Geria’s wine valley (right), carved to protect the vines from the harsh winds.

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THIS SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT LagOmar, designed by César Manrique and Jesús Soto as a residence for Egyptian actor Omar Sharif, now houses a museum, restaurant and bar; the César Manrique Foundation welcomes visitors to the artist’s former home, an otherworldly dwelling built atop a lava flow; white walls and blue trim, a local hallmark; an ancient dragon tree, endemic to Lanzarote.

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Most conejeros and conejeras, as locals of Lanzarote are known, regard Manrique as the driving force behind these measures. “His work was fundamental for the island to be declared a Biosphere Reserve,” says Violeta Izquierdo Expósito, professor at the Complutense University of Madrid and author of César Manrique: Arte Total. On his return in 1966, he found the island mostly as he had left it: “like an unframed, unmounted work of art,” he famously stated. Sensing an impending avalanche of tourists and the business interests that follow — poised to spill over from La Palma and Tenerife — the artist made it his mission to do the framing and mounting. With the support of his childhood friend turned president of Lanzarote, José Ramirez Cerdá, he enlisted a playwright, poet and architect, among others, to canvass the island and compile an architectonic style guide, leaving no grain of oxidized sand unexamined.

Traces of their expedition touch every crook and crevice on the island. Following their guidelines,

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CANARY ISLANDS

THIS SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT Molded into the edge of a cliff along the northern Batería del Río escarpment, Mirador del Río is Manrique’s response to a holiday village project that never came to fruition; barrel cacti pose as living sculptures in the Jardín de Cactus; sunbathers at Playa Mujeres also crop up in Manrique’s paintings.

César Manrique set out to encourage “quality tourism” over quantity, or what many think of today as sustainable tourism.

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asphalt roads unroll like carpets, curving along natural contours so as “not to cut the landscape in two.” Roadside ads remain outlawed, cables run underground and high-rises — for a time forbidden — remain few. As local legend has it, the height of a palm tree informed Manrique’s view that buildings should not exceed three storeys. White cubic houses still stand in contrast to the burnt earth, with inland-facing shutters painted forest green and those facing the sea marine blue, per tradition. “I believe that the special characteristics of every place on this planet must be preserved by all means,” he told an interviewer in 1971, “otherwise we will soon be living in a boring standard culture without any creative imagination.”

Manrique’s imagination found its expression through six Centers of Art, Culture and Tourism (CACT). His first, Jameos del Agua, evolved from the rehabilitation of a collapsed 3,000-year-old lava tube, formed by the eruption of Monte Corona. A winding staircase leads visitors to a subterranean restaurant where grilled octopus with mojo verde and slow-roasted rabbit in salmorejo are served in view of a lagoon inhabited by a ghostly consortium of blind albino crabs. Connected to the sea by a volcanic tube, the underground cove’s tides ebb and flow with the moon. Past the swimming pool and dance floor, the nearly four-mile-long tunnel opens into the cave auditorium, a 550-seat venue that has hosted, among other events, the premiere of Pedro Almodóvar’s 2009 film Broken Embraces.

“Jameos del Agua is the best example of Manrique’s art-nature philosophy,” says Izquierdo Expósito. As both an ecological and cultural sanctuary, the site

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CANARY ISLANDS

THIS SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The leafy César Lanzarote Hotel, which opened in 2023; rumor has it only the King of Spain can swim in the azure waters of Jameos del Agua’s pool, but even His Majesty is not allowed; a curved window frames a slice of barbed paradise in Jardín de Cactus; hats off to Manrique, whose legacy lives on at the eponymous hotel and beyond.

“demonstrates his vision of creating a place where nature and art coexist in harmony,” she says. Through these centers, known collectively as CACT Lanzarote, Manrique set out to encourage “quality tourism” over quantity, or what many think of today as sustainable tourism. “Manrique valued tourists who respect the environment, who enjoy nature’s beauty without exploiting it and who contribute positively to the local economy,” says Izquierdo Expósito.

Like other sites selected for centers — the cliffside Mirador del Río restaurant and viewpoint repurposes the ruins of a 19th-century military base — Manrique’s final completed project, Jardín de Cactus, performs what Alejandro Scarpa, author of César Manrique and Lanzarote, calls “territorial acupuncture.” Planted in a sunken volcanic cone that had become a makeshift landfill, the terraced garden bristles with around 4,500 specimens of spiky succulents, including the 23-foottall Euphorbia candelabrum placed by Manrique more than 35 years ago, and prickly pear cacti, introduced from the Americas in the 15th century and grown to cultivate cochineal insects for their red dye carmine (once Lanzarote’s most valuable crop). At the top of the garden, the blades of a restored windmill — one of the last of its kind on the island — spin in the production of gofio, a toasted maize flour.

César Manrique’s works draw close to 3.5 million visitors a year, a figure surpassing the MoMA in Manhattan, the Guggenheim in Bilbao and probably even his intentions. “His legacy continues to be a source of inspiration for artists and conservationists around the world,” says Izquierdo Expósito. Before his death by car accident in 1992, he recognized that the fate of his influence, like art and nature, hangs in the future’s balance. “Attaining utopia is tantamount to achieving the impossible,” he argued in one of his last manifestos, but we should leap for it anyway. 

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Lanzarote Essentials WHAT TO DO In northern Lanzarote, the cliffs of the Famara massif slope into the rust-gold sands of the three-mile-long Playa de Famara, where strong alisios winds make for ideal surfing conditions. Home to the largest number of endemic botanical species per square foot in Europe, the Famara was one of César Manrique’s favorite places to holiday on the island.

WHAT TO DRINK La Geria’s dark ash valleys provide the unlikely, undulating terrain for wine production through a system of semicircular rock walls and holes, known as hoyos, furrowed to protect the harvest from merciless winds.

Within the last 10 years, the number of Designation of Origin wineries on the island has nearly tripled to 27, offering local varieties like the floral and citrusy malvasía volcánica.

WHERE TO STAY The former estate of Manrique’s father thrives anew as César Lanzarote Hotel, a hillside property near La Asomada village with 20 rooms providing views of volcanic vineyards and the ocean. Here, “green” is more than just a color scheme: Solar panels generate energy, guests can use the hotel’s electric bikes, and on-site olive, banana and pineapple trees supply the kitchen.

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Postcards from Antarctica

A N TA R C T I C A

P h o t o s by M i c h a e l G e o r g e — Wo r d s by R e n é e M o r r i s o n

Photographer Michael George joins an expedition to Antarctica, where shifting ice, unpredictable weather and massive penguin colonies create a voyage unlike any other.

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OPENING SPREAD A surreal landing on Deception Island, inside the caldera of an active volcano.

“The cliffs are towering, the beach is black sand and the water under the surface is warm like a hot spring,” says Michael George.

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A N TA R C T I C A

No journey to Antarctica is the same as the last.

“Every trip depends entirely on the wind, weather and what landings are accessible,” says photographer Michael George, fresh from a 12-day Lindblad Expeditions excursion on the National Geographic Endurance. “Even the staff don’t know where the ship is going until the day before.” The Endurance bears the name of the legendary 1912 vessel of polar explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton, which carried him on an expedition to achieve the first land crossing of the White Continent, but found itself trapped in the Weddell Sea’s unforgiving pack ice.

Today’s Endurance is far more advanced, purpose-built for polar navigation. The ship’s cutting-edge X-bow hull allows it to glide through thick ice and turbulent seas, reaching remote locations where tabular icebergs drift, glaciers calve thunderously into sheltered bays and penguins nest by the thousands. Guided by naturalists, undersea specialists and photography experts like Michael, small groups pile into inflatable landing craft, called Zodiac boats, to see fur seals, chinstrap penguins and blue-eyed shags up close — just not too close. On board, lectures and the occasional impromptu 4 a.m. wake-up call announcing a sighting of a 40-strong orca pod ensure no one misses a moment.

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A lone adult fur seal rests near Portal Point, framed by glacial ice and the Endurance; crew and guests organized a makeshift parade, releasing small Zodiac boats to follow the ship’s freshly carved path through the pack ice. “It was a fun moment, out there in a blizzard,” says Michael. “It’s only possible with this type of modern icebreaker. They’re able to get to places that you previously couldn’t reach on a tourism vessel.”

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COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT

In the Weddell Sea, a massive tabular iceberg glows in golden light. “It’s probably four storeys tall,” says Michael.

“And that sunset lasted from 11 p.m. to 3 a.m.”; snowy sheathbills, Antarctica’s only native land birds, can’t touch down on water, so they treat ships like islands and scavenge whatever they can find to survive; chinstrap penguins huddle before diving. “They never jump in alone,” Michael explains. “They wait, wait, wait — and then one makes a move, and suddenly they’re all leaping in. It’s strength in numbers.”

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A N TA R C T I C A

COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT

Adventurers hike across Neko Harbor, an inlet that’s home to a large colony of gentoo penguins and noisy glaciers. “Every time I’ve been here, I’ve heard the glaciers calve — they’re that active,” says Michael; a rookery of penguins clusters near an Argentine research station for shelter from the wind; a pair of Adélie penguins guard their chick, tucked into a nest made of stones. “Antarctica is one of the last places on Earth that feels untouched,” says Michael. “The diversity of the wildlife — there’s nothing like it anywhere else.” 

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Ask your Ensemble advisor about exclusive amenities on this cruise.

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PHOTO: ALEXANDR DUBYNIN/GETTY IMAGES.

Modern

By J.R. Patterson

K A Z A K H S TA N

PHOTO: FREDERICK WALLACE/UNSPLASH.

Nomads

Our writer travels across Kazakhstan, a former Soviet republic the size of Western Europe, where nomadic traditions and shimmering spires coexist in a wildly prosperous present.

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K A Z A K H S TA N

OPENING SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT In the desert 185 miles east of Aktau, the Bozzhyra Gorge is a vast area marked by soaring cliffs, spires and other geological features, such as Dragon’s Crest; the largest mosque in Central Asia, the Astana Grand Mosque covers an area of more than 1,400 acres, including this central courtyard.

W

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PHOTO: KAMA TULKIBAYEVA/UNSPLASH.

hen I learned that the horse was first domesticated in Kazakhstan, I imagined seeing my first one on the hoof rather than the dinner plate. And yet, there was no trouble with the animal being both noble companion and tasty entrée over lunch in Aktau, where my hosts put an entire stable’s worth on the table, saying, with glee, “Zhylky, zhylky!” And what a variety of zhylky there was, stewed with onions in the quyrdaq, sliced and pressed into a log of cold kazy sausage, shanks chopped and boiled with noodles in the beshbarmak. Far be it from me to offend any host. I put aside all notions of the barns of my youth, reached in — beshbarmak means “five fingers,” and that is how it’s eaten — and popped the dark meat into my mouth. It was slightly gamey, with a tang of spice, and chewy, with a rind of fat. I took another, and another.

There are no small meals in Kazakhstan, only feasts; the more you eat, the more food appears. Pyramids of fried doughballs called baursak, stodgy dumplings, piles of fresh herbs, fruit leather and nuts, endless cups of zesty tea and, sometimes, bottomless vodka.

Only when I was given a wooden bowl of kumys, a popular drink of fermented mare’s milk, did I falter.

It was sour on the nose and fizzed on the tongue, and put me in mind of creamer mixed with lite beer. I had a tepid sip and, catching my revulsion, my hosts pressed me to drink more, all but holding the bowl to my lips. The Kazakh take on disliking something is simply that you haven’t yet had enough of it.

This is konakasy, the Kazakh practice of offering guests a spread of whatever they can, the core of a big-hearted culture wherein only the smallest reason is needed to offer a meal, a drink, a gift. Once, as I was trying to pay for a taxi ride across Aktau, the

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K A Z A K H S TA N

THIS SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT Wild horses — Kazakhstan’s most revered inhabitants — graze on the edge of Black Canyon in the far east of the country; each corridor, column and arch in the Astana Grand Mosque is adorned with intricate carved patterns.

PHOTO: RYSDAULETOV/UNSPLASH.

driver batted away my tenge, saying, “Brother, it is my custom to respect bones.”

I had plans to travel quickly onward from Aktau, the major port city, but I was waylaid by long meals and conversations. One evening, I walked the wide, clean coastal promenade along the Caspian Sea with a local schoolteacher. Great oil tankers moved across the horizon line as children swam in the surprisingly warm, clear water. “Kazakhstan was once the entire world,” he said, exaggerating slightly. But the sentiment, that a once powerful nation can rise again, is sincere. Freed from the decades of repression faced under Soviet Union rule, there is a sense of reaching back to nomadic traditions to revive an identity of strength and perseverance. With a focus on sciences and technology as much as horses and yurt living, the country is now the hub of Central Asia, a growing powerhouse of local influence and global economics.

As a result of that growth — the Caspian region holds vast reserves of oil and natural gas — Aktau bursts at the seams, the beaches teeming with bathers in summer, the edge of the city creeping into the desert. Within the Soviet-era apartment blocks, stylish bakeries sell sourdough bread and croissants, and coffee shops serve good strong brew. There is as much taste for Georgian or Korean food as there is for Burger King (Aktau has four of them).

Improved rail infrastructure and air connections are helping to develop Kazakhstan’s tourist trade. One can fly directly to Almaty and Aktau from London, and a reliable and affordable passenger rail network spans the entire country. First class on Kazakhstan Railways includes an exclusive two-bunk compartment with a private bathroom and shower, and breakfast of fried eggs and sausages for $3 in the dining car.

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K A Z A K H S TA N

LEFT TO RIGHT Idyllic horse-and-yurt living on the Assy Plateau in eastern Kazakhstan; the Norman Foster-designed Khan Shatyr Entertainment Center is covered by a transparent tent — a nod to the country’s traditional nomadic housing.

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PHOTO: LYDIA S/UNSPLASH.

In the 47 hours it takes the train to cross the approximately 1,400 miles that separate Aktau from the capital, Astana, it becomes clear that Kazakhstan’s population of 20.8 million is concentrated in its cities.

As the train ascends from the Caspian Depression onto the ironing board of the Great Steppe, villages appear in a flash and are gone, looking small and brown against the plain. It is harsh country, too: blazing hot in the summer and dropping to 40-below in the dead of winter.

Astana rises from the steppe like a forest of twisting and angular neo-futuristic high-rises that, after dark, flash with light displays. Now the heart of contemporary Kazakhstan, with a ballet, opera house, river cruises and sports arenas, it was not long ago a mere hamlet of low-rise buildings on the eastern banks of the Ishim River. It became the country’s capital only in 1997, and still has that spotless, new-city smell of concrete and window cleaner.

Within the egg-crowned observation tower of the Baiterek Monument is a gilded cast of Kazakhstan’s first president Nursultan Nazarbayev’s palm, upon which visitors can make a wish. Ask a question in Kazakhstan, and nine times out of 10 the answer will involve Nazarbayev, whose impact is considered akin to godlike. His legacy is well illustrated in the line of wishful thinkers curling up the steps of the monument, eager to touch the gold-leafed iron hand of their former leader. In 2008, Nazarbayev decreed that construction on the left bank of the Ishim River would begin, and there lie the most ostentatious constructions: the Baiterek Monument, the spherical Nur Alem Museum of Future Energy, the Khan Shatyr shopping mall, the Astana Grand Mosque and the yawning sand oval of the Kazanat Hippodrome.

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PHOTO: SIMON SUN/UNSPLASH.

K A Z A K H S TA N

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PHOTO: ANDREY_KZ/GETTY IMAGES.

K A Z A K H S TA N

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K A Z A K H S TA N

LEFT TO RIGHT Travel to the Valley of Balls, or Torysh, on the Ustyurt Plateau in western Kazakhstan and you’ll find an unusual geological phenomenon — and camels, too; the Baiterek Monument was built to commemorate the proclamation of Astana as the capital city, the beginning of a new era in the country’s history.

PHOTO: TRAVEL WITH/UNSPLASH.

It is here that I finally see horses on their hooves, as the Kazakh national kokpar team trains for the upcoming World Nomad Games. Kokpar is a brutal game, closer than anything to George Orwell’s estimation of sport as “war minus the shooting.” Two teams of four horsemen scrabble to get a 50-pound headless goat carcass (a rubber dummy is used in competition) to the opposing end of the field. It is a fierce and impressive display of horsemanship, and the players move like centaurs, each sportsman’s mount an extension of their body, lathered with soapy sweat, filling the air with their musky scent. These are far from meat on legs — one competition horse can cost as much as 10.5 million tenge, around $20,000.

For a moment following the spar, I speak with the team’s captain, Kurmanbek Turganbek. Atop his horse, he looks like a man out of time: broadshouldered, his face ruddy from sunshine, his steepled kalpak hat embroidered with the koshkar-muiz, a fleurde-lis-like symbol that signifies vitality, grace and prosperity. A kamcha, a short whip of braided leather, is tucked into his knee-high boot. “This sport would be illegal in other countries,” he says. “Here, it’s our national pride.”

I ask Turganbek how he feels about his horse. “We do not ride these horses,” he says. “We are these horses. We rode them across the steppe, across the entire world. Our blood is their blood, and it is strong blood, a blood bond. We will never forget this is what made us.” Behind him, the glassy spires of Astana, like a snaggletooth jawline, catch the fading sunlight, igniting in a golden flash. I am temporarily blinded, and when I recover I see that Turganbek has trotted down the grounds, cell phone to his ear. The modern nomad, I think, lets the world come to him. 

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From iconic destinations in the Caribbean and Europe to jaw-dropping North American sailings debuting with our newest ship, Brilliant Lady, later this year, every kids-free voyage is the perfect getaway with all the luxurious inclusions your Sailors deserve without the nickel-and-diming.

Book now with voyages open through 2027 and enjoy 75% off your second Sailor and up to $500 in instant savings.

P LE ASE CON TAC T YOUR ENS E M B L E T R AVEL A DVI SOR FOR MOR E D E TA I L S.

TEXT: KATIE SEHL. PHOTO: VISIT GREENLAND/UNSPLASH.

WHERE NEXT

Uummannaq, Greenland Home to one restaurant, two supermarkets, 1,407 inhabitants and Greenland’s most northerly ferry terminal, Uummannaq sits 375 miles above the Arctic Circle on an island known for its heart-shaped mountain. With limited air and boat service, reaching the remote town is a trip in itself. Only a handful of expedition cruise companies make the trek, including HX Expeditions, which leads summer excursions to Uummannaq Museum. While there, drop a letter for Saint Nick in the big red postbox — Danish children believe his office is in the yellow house next door.

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A P E R F E C T DAY I N

Hanoi VIETNAM

Zigzag your way through a maze of lantern-strung alleyways, hole-in-the-wall eateries and chic boutiques in this buzzing metropolis on the western bank of the Red River.

By Shawna Cohen

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PHOTO: EIRIK SKARSTEIN/UNSPLASH.

V

ietnam’s capital city vibrates with the roar of motorbikes, locals clinking iced coffees or Bia Hà Nội beers on tiny plastic stools and women hawking hot-pink dragon fruit and pomelos the size of volleyballs. It sounds overwhelming, but “it’s organized chaos,” says my Vespa guide, as we breeze by peaceful lakes and tree-lined boulevards that bring balance to the urban din. Shaped by Chinese and French colonial rule, Hanoi is where yin and yang meet joie de vivre — where centuries-old temples stand beside skyscrapers, and growing arts and cocktail scenes rival those in Paris and Singapore.

It’s a city where, despite its turbulent history, a go-with-the-flow sensibility courses through the streets like traffic.

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A P E R F E C T DAY I N

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PHOTOS: NGUYEN HUONG/UNSPLASH (01); COURTESY OF KILOMET109 (02).

Morning It’s 5:30 a.m. on a scorching Tuesday morning and my heart is pounding as I try to cross the road. I’m in a real-life game of Frogger, navigating a constant stream of mopeds, scooters, motorcycles, cars and trucks. Road rules aren’t always followed in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. The trick, I quickly discover, is to walk with purpose and the traffic will magically move around you.

It’s worth waking up at this ungodly hour to join the hundreds of locals gathered around Hoàn Kiếm Lake in the heart of the city. Against the backdrop of the 19th-century Ngoc Son Temple, which rises from the emerald-green waters on a small island, groups of people — mostly women, aged 50-plus — dance to pop music and bust out aerobic moves. Runners circle the water’s edge. Couples ballroom dance. Others practice tai chi. It’s a delightful scene capturing the spirit of Hanoians.

“This is how people get ready for a new day full of energy,” says Vu Trung Kien, a tour guide with Easia Travel. “They exercise not only to keep fit, but to socialize as well.”

For my own jolt of energy, I head to Loading T Café for an iced egg coffee, made smooth and foamy like a cappuccino, but without any bitterness. Barista Linh Nguyen says it’s the combination of creamy egg yolks and strong robusta brew that makes the drink so special. The discarded egg whites are donated to a nearby bakery for crisp, wafer-thin cat’s tongue cookies. The concoction was invented in 1946 by a bartender at the iconic Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi who needed a substitute for milk during a wartime dairy shortage. It’s now a staple in cafés throughout the city.

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Post-caffeine fix, I’m ready to explore Hanoi from the back of a vintage Vespa. My driver, Edward, from Vespa Adventures, confidently weaves in and out of traffic, stopping along the way to deliver some interesting history lessons. There’s Long Biên Bridge, the oldest Red River crossing, which was used to transport troops and supplies during the Vietnam War. Banana Island lies below, a long strip of fertile land with banana plantations and bike paths, resembling a countryside escape. There’s even an unofficial, predominantly male, nude beach.

We zip around West Lake, Hanoi’s largest, in a district notably calmer than the city center just 15 minutes away.

Expats flock here for its natural beauty, not to mention a growing culinary and fashion scene — Kilomet109 boutique, for example, offers high-end, sustainable clothing. At nearby Huu Tiep Lake, in the French Quarter, we view remnants of an American B-52 bomber that was hit by a surface-to-air missile while flying over Hanoi in 1972.

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01 On an islet in Hoàn Kiếm Lake, south of Ngoc Son Temple’s isle, Turtle Tower makes for a perfect snapshot backdrop.

02 Kilomet109’s couture garments are made by local artisans around Vietnam.

OPENING PAGE In the Old Quarter, a street vendor carries fresh produce in twin baskets with a shoulder pole.

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A P E R F E C T DAY I N

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03 Try Vietnam’s top sandwich at Bánh Mì B+, known for its peppery pâté.

04 Crisp mango plus spicy beef jerky equal a fresh and fiery salad from Bánh Tráng Trộn.

05 The Temple of Literature, a place of wisdom for nearly a millennium.

Afternoon

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PHOTOS: SHAWNA COHEN (03, 04); CHINH LE DUC/UNSPLASH (05).

For lunch, I meet food blogger Văn Công Tú, one half of the duo behind the popular Hanoi Street Food Tour, who takes me on a jaunt through the fragrant food markets and packed streets of the Old Quarter. French and Chinese influences are prevalent everywhere, from the dishes we sample (stir-fries and bean curd) to the buildings we pass, such as the majestic, neo-gothic St. Joseph Cathedral, one of the first structures built during the French colonial period.

The World Culinary Awards recently named Hanoi the world’s best culinary city, ahead of European stalwarts such as Rome and Barcelona. Everything I taste backs that up, including at Ngõ Trung Yên, a tiny hole-in-the-wall that lists just one item on its daytime menu: mien tron muc. The savory dish consists of glass noodles, fried onions and roasted peanuts with crab eggs, a fish patty and a beef and pork roll. “This is the kind of place where you don’t ask any questions,” explains Tú. “Just hold out fingers for how many portions you want.”

At Bánh Tráng Trộn, I opt for beef jerky atop julienned green mango, Vietnamese coriander, chili oil, toasted peanuts and fried shallots. It’s surprisingly refreshing on this humid day. The small baguette sandwich at Bánh Mì B+ is filled with pork, pickled carrots and daikon — the perfect $1 snack. For dessert, I get chuối chiên, a.k.a. fried banana, served hot from a small stand on a crowded street corner.

I’m ready for a ngủ trưa, the Vietnamese equivalent of a siesta, but the Temple of Literature inspires a second wind. Among the estimated 17,000 temples and pagodas across the country, this ancient structure, a UNESCO World Heritage site, served as Vietnam’s first university. Built in 1070, the entire complex has withstood multiple wars and restorations yet retains its original architecture, including stone columns and elaborate gates, as well as an intricate altar honoring Confucius, heaped with offerings and incense. I see more locals than tourists using the landscaped grounds — five courtyards, manicured gardens and a central red pagoda — as a photo-shoot backdrop.

Turns out, a stroll among bonsai trees and ponds filled with koi fish and lotus flowers is the next best thing to an actual nap.

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WHERE NEXT

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A P E R F E C T DAY I N

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PHOTOS: COURTESY OF MANZI ART SPACE (06); COURTESY OF SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI (WHERE TO STAY).

Evening As the oppressive humidity starts to lift, I head to one of Hanoi’s longtime creative hubs, Manzi Art Space, housed in a charming 1930s French villa. The airy café’s fresh passion-fruit juice is the perfect pick-meup, but it’s the eclectic collection of works by emerging and established Vietnamese artists, such as Hà Đào and Lê Đức Anh, that lures me in. I could spend hours admiring the oil paintings, illustrations and photography, but I’ve promised my kids a souvenir, so I venture down the narrow streets of the Old Quarter, stopping at some artisan shops along the way.

Cerender Ceramics makes the sweetest hand-painted pinch bowls (perfect for soy sauce on sushi night). Maztermind carries board games with the type of artistry found at Paris ateliers. I fawn over Hanoiopoly, a Hanoi version of Monopoly made from pinewood (tokens are mini versions of the colorful stools found in cafés throughout the city). Eventually, I find what I’m looking for at Maison Marou, an upscale chocolatier: pho-flavored chocolate bars.

Dinner is light following my afternoon of taste-testing. With its entrance hidden down a long corridor and up several flights of stairs littered with cats, you won’t find many tourists at Cha Ca Tan Tan. I never would have found it myself without detailed directions. Eating here is like attending a casual dinner party at a friend’s apartment.

Rock music blares from the open kitchen as I sit down next to a table of 12 or so, joyfully toasting each other and downing shots.

I order cha ca, Hanoi’s signature dish of turmeric-marinated catfish, served with vermicelli, fresh herbs, chili and fermented shrimp paste.

06 In a villa-turned-venue, Manzi Art Space hosts indie art exhibitions, workshops, dance performances and a homey café and bar.

It’s been a full day, but I can’t end the night without a Pho cocktail, a refreshingly sweet drink inspired by Vietnam’s famed beef noodle soup. At the laid-back Nê Cocktail Bar, the bartender mixes cinnamon, star anise and cardamom with Cointreau triple sec and gin in a shaker as though it’s performance art.

As I walk back to the hotel, I’m invigorated despite my 5 a.m. wake-up call. There’s an energy here that’s both frenzied and relaxed. Restaurant lineups move quickly.

People zigzag through tight corridors with a smile. Despite the volume of vehicles on the roads, traffic flows. Between the bursts of colorful fruit stalls lining the streets, wafts of sizzling meat, the bold-yet-sweet taste of coffee and the hoots of horns and schoolchildren at play, Hanoi has put me into sensory overload in the best way possible. I’m not quite ready for it to end. 

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W H E R E T O S TAY SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE HANOI

French colonial style meets modern amenities at this luxe hotel, located minutes from the Opera House. During the Vietnam War, its bomb shelter protected Joan Baez and Jane Fonda from air raids. Guests can experience the bunker, rediscovered by chance during a 2011 renovation, on an exclusive Path of History tour hosted by the hotel’s historian.

Ask your Ensemble advisor about exclusive amenities at this property.

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RANGE × HX EXPEDITIONS

Arctic Frontiers Await Alex McNeil, chief expedition officer of HX Expeditions, shares his take on the Arctic Circle’s most fascinating adventures — and what goes into shaping the HX experience.

By Robert Liwanag

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What surprises people most about expedition cruising?

On most cruises, your interactions with others are quite limited, but on an expedition cruise, you make really meaningful connections, because it takes a special, curious person to choose these trips. People also often think that expedition cruising is super intense, so they need to be very fit. While we do cater to people who are more active, there’s a place for everyone.

Do you have any tips for viewing the northern lights on an expedition cruise?

Be patient. The intensity of the lights fluctuates, so if you see them becoming less brilliant, don’t write them off. Go inside to warm up a bit, then come back out. I’ve been in situations where people see the lights, go back to bed and then the lights suddenly turn absolutely epic — full streams across the sky.

How does HX’s Science & Education program enhance the guest experience?

Local knowledge, and activities with local residents, are irreplaceable, while academic and scientific expertise offers unique perspectives as well. For instance, you might be interested in seeing how a glacier changes over the course of a day, but the onboard glaciologist can show you how it’s evolved over the past 100 years.

What is your favorite Arctic destination?

Greenland has these unparalleled ice formations cascading down the coastlines, along with beautiful icebergs and glaciers.

Greenlandic culture is incredibly rich, and there’s an amazing blend of alpine and maritime landscapes. It’s very rare to see towering snowcapped mountains while an ocean surrounds you — usually, it’s one or the other.

Alex McNeil CHIEF EXPEDITION OFFICER OF HX EXPEDITIONS

After more than a decade leading Arctic and Antarctic expeditions, including 14 visits to the geographic North Pole, McNeil joined HX Expeditions in 2023. As chief expedition officer, he shapes HX’s global itinerary development and guest experience.

Read the full interview at rangetravel.com.

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ABOVE Ittoqqortoormiit in eastern Greenland is one of the most remote communities in the world. With a population of just 345 as of 2020, the town is only accessible by helicopter, snowmobile or boat.

PHOTO: CHELSEA CLAUS/HX EXPEDITIONS (ITTOQQORTOORMIIT, GREENLAND).

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WHERE NEXT

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PORT OF CALL

FAST FACTS

Montevideo

Currency Uruguayan peso (UYU)

Language Spanish

Rambling neighborhoods, riverside beaches and sizzling asado cuisine make the Uruguayan capital a rewarding pre- or post-cruise destination.

Tipping 10% for great service

Temperature

U R U G UAY

Average daily highs range from around 75°F/24°C (January) to 52°F/11°C (June).

TRIVIA

Sports Montevideo hosted every match of the inaugural FIFA World Cup in 1930, with most games taking place at Estadio Centenario. Uruguay won the final against Argentina 4-2.

MONTEVIDEO

Music “La Cumparsita,” widely regarded as the anthem of tango, was composed in 1917 by local musician Gerardo Matos Rodríguez and played for the first time at Café La Giralda.

A

rguably one of South America’s greatest cities, Montevideo is fascinating, friendly and delicious. With a population of about 1.8 million, Uruguay’s metropolis sits at the confluence of the wide Río de la Plata and the Atlantic Ocean, where an abundance of fresh air sweeps along numerous beaches and lush green expanses. Art deco architecture adds to the city’s charm, while the historic Mercado del Puerto serves some of the continent’s best steak. Witness that dynamic spirit spill onto the streets, where locals embrace Montevideo’s tango heritage.

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Wellness The city often leads Latin America in quality-of-life rankings, thanks in part to its walkability, reliable healthcare, natural spaces and nightlife scene.

CRUISE SHIP ILLUSTRATION: CLAIRE M c CRACKEN. PHOTO: SPP SPORT PRESS PHOTO/ALAMY (TRIVIA).

By Tim Johnson

WHERE NEXT

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PORT OF CALL

ENJOY THE VIEW

PHOTOS: BRAZILPHOTOS/GETTY IMAGES (EAT THIS); DONYANEDOMAM/ADOBE STOCK (IF YOU’RE PRESSED FOR TIME); AMORPHIS/GETTY IMAGES (THE SOUVENIR); HANS NELEMAN/GETTY IMAGES (EVERY WEEKEND); RUDIMENCIAL/GETTY IMAGES (DID YOU KNOW?).

E AT T H I S

Asado Uruguayans swear that their capital offers the best beef, often adding that the country has four cows for every person.

The best place to taste it? Head to Cabaña Verónica at Mercado del Puerto, where you can enjoy everything from baby beef (rib eye) to brochette de lomo (tenderloin skewers).

Head to the 22ndfloor observation deck at Intendencia Montevideo to take in views over the skyline, stretching all the way to the Río de la Plata. Be sure to visit at sunset to bask in Montevideo’s glorious goldenhour light.

EVERY WEEKEND

Tango got its start around 1880 in the working-class dance halls of Montevideo and Buenos Aires before making its way into the upper echelons of society. These days, it’s not unusual to see Uruguayans dancing it in the city’s lively squares. Give tango a try at Joventango, which offers classes.

THE SOUVENIR

IF YOU’RE PRESSED FOR TIME

La Rambla You can see a lot in just a couple hours (or less) by renting a bike and pedaling along the nearly 14-mile La Rambla promenade.

The broad boardwalk traces the Río de la Plata, passing through some of the city’s most beautiful neighborhoods, including the historic Ciudad Vieja and diverse Barrio Sur.

Maté Gourd In Uruguay, maté is more than just tea — it’s a cherished ritual, often enjoyed communally among friends. The drink is made from yerba maté, an herb with a grassy appearance and a bitter taste, and the experience is heightened by the method of delivery: sipped through a bombilla (metal straw) from a gourd or a leather mug.

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DID YOU KNOW?

Parque del Prado Sometimes called the “lungs of Montevideo,” Parque del Prado is the city’s largest park, with 262 acres of green space. It’s home to a botanical garden and the picturesque Miguelete Creek running through its center, while the Residencia de Suárez — the official home of Uruguay’s president — is just next door.

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PORT OF CALL

I F YO U WA N T TO CO O L O F F…

Make It a Beach Day The Río de la Plata feels more like an ocean than a river — and it has the beaches to prove it. Here are three of the best.

Playa Ramirez Just steps from the kid-friendly castle and amusement park of Parque Rodó, this crescentshaped beach with calm, shallow waters is perfect for families.

Playa de los Pocitos Spend the day swimming and playing volleyball at one of Montevideo’s most beloved beaches, stretching over two-and-a-half miles of dazzling white sands.

Playa Honda Ready to surf? Bring your board to this beach in Montevideo’s tranquil Punta Gorda district to ride the best waves in the city.

NIGHTLIFE

Parque Rodó This hip neighborhood may be known for its expansive namesake park, but all the action happens after dark.

Case in point: Some establishments don’t even open until 1 a.m.

Start your evening with a bite and a cocktail at the intimate, laid-back El Recreo, then kick up your heels at nearby Il Tempo, a discotheque that grooves deep into the wee hours.

IF YOU WANT TO TIME TRAVEL…

Museo del Gaucho Yes, Uruguay had a cowboy era too. On the country’s northern plains, gauchos lived a rugged lifestyle and soon became national symbols of independence and pride. Experience this bygone age at the Museo del Gaucho, where exhibitions highlight the deep connection between these iconic figures, their horses and the lands they called home.

SWEET TOOTH

Chajá Cake The quintessential Uruguayan treat is luscious, creamy and indulgent, with layers of vanilla sponge cake, peach syrup, chopped meringue cookies, whipped cream and sweet peaches.

Uruguayans have been eating it since the 1920s, and you can try a slice at Chajá Bistró.

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I F Y O U ’ R E U P F O R A D AY T R I P…

Embark on a Wine Trail Wines of robust red tannat, the national grape, have gained such popularity that the country now offers a wine trail, the Mapa del Vino. Fortunately, Montevideo is just 30 miles from Canelones, Uruguay’s most established wine region. At Familia Deicas, take a vineyard tour, then sit down to pair their tannat wines with a six-course meal.

RANGE BY ENSEMBLE

PHOTOS: ELOJOTORPE/GETTY IMAGES (IF YOU WANT TO COOL OFF); SHUSTRILKA/ADOBE STOCK (SWEET TOOTH); THIAGO SANTOS/GETTY IMAGES (IF YOU’RE UP FOR A DAY TRIP); RICHARD CUMMINS/ALAMY (IF YOU WANT TO TIME TRAVEL).

WHERE NEXT

WHERE NEXT

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PORT OF CALL

PHOTOS: DIEGO VILA/GETTY IMAGES (MARK YOUR CALENDAR); DPA PICTURE ALLIANCE/ALAMY (CAN’T MISS); COURTESY OF SOFITEL MONTEVIDEO CASINO CARRASCO & SPA (WHERE TO STAY); MECHI FAHS FOR HOTEL MONTEVIDEO (WHERE TO STAY).

W H E R E TO S TAY

Sofitel Montevideo Casino Carrasco and Spa MARK YOUR CALENDAR

Carnaval de Montevideo It may not have the same global reach as Brazil’s version, but this 40-day-plus event is just as exciting. Between late January and mid-March, Montevideo overflows with parades, music and dazzling costumes to celebrate Uruguay’s Indigenous, Spanish and African heritage.

Be sure to catch murga, a theater performance that’s equal parts musical and satire.

Built in 1921 and renovated in 2012, this 116-room belle époque beauty is set on the shores of the Río de la Plata in the affluent Carrasco neighborhood. Following an afternoon browsing the nearby boutiques and galleries, unwind in a dry sauna before retiring to an opera suite, which offers 360-degree views of the city.

LOCAL LINGO

CAN’T MISS

Estadio Centenario Montevideo’s 60,000-seat stadium is the only one in the world recognized by FIFA as a Historical Monument of World Football. Walk beneath the iconic 328-foot-high Tower of Tributes before touring the on-site Museo del Fútbol, which includes statues of Uruguay’s soccer heroes, plus photos and memorabilia from their biggest matches.

¡Ta! Even if you don’t speak Spanish, you can sound like a real Montevidean if you add tá (“got it”) to your patter. A shortened form of está (“it’s okay”), locals use it to express just about any emotion — from happiness and excitement to frustration.

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Hotel Montevideo Nestled in the palm tree-lined neighborhood of Pocitos, this five-star property seamlessly blends indoor and outdoor living, thanks to private balconies, floor-to-ceiling windows and a rooftop pool. Dine at the acclaimed Polo Bamba, which specializes in seasonal ingredients, or enjoy a drink at the 10th-floor bar.

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The Hotlist

Hotel Casa Fuster Barcelona

Ensemble Exclusives

BA R C E LO N A , S PA I N

Built in 1908 as a gift from Mr. Fuster to his wife, this elegant modernist masterpiece captures the romance and opulence of its era. Located on Passeig de Gràcia — Barcelona’s premier avenue for luxury and culture — it features an exquisite design by a renowned architect, a Michelin-starred restaurant and a stunning rooftop with breathtaking views.

Ocean Cliff Hotel Negril

US$100 food & beverage credit per stay Welcome note Early check-in and late checkout* Room category upgrade* Daily breakfast for two

Ensemble Exclusives

N E GR I L , J A M A I C A

Ocean Cliff Hotel Negril is an adults-only boutique resort featuring 18 handcrafted stone cottages. Enjoy an ocean-fed pool, a sandy beach and a pool deck with ladder access to the ocean for swimming and snorkeling.

The Blue Mahoe Restaurant offers a farm-to-table menu, while the open-concept Ocean Spa enhances relaxation at this cliffside paradise.

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US$50 hotel credit per stay Welcome note Early check-in and late checkout* Room category upgrade* Daily breakfast for two

*Subject to availability at the time of check-in.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Enjoy the Ensemble treatment — from exclusive perks to extensive savings — with some of our favorite partners and properties in Jamaica, Italy and beyond.

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San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice

†

Discover a five-star luxury urban resort on a private island, just minutes from Piazza San Marco via a complimentary boat ride. From the historic San Clemente Church to award-winning dining, a serene spa, a pool, sports facilities and a kids’ club, unforgettable experiences await in Venice at one of Europe’s most unique historic hotels.

Walt Disney World Resort KI DS 5 0 % O F F T I C K E T †

Families can save on summer fun!

Kids (ages 3 to 9) get a three-day or longer standard Walt Disney World theme park ticket for 50 percent off — for ticket start dates from May 27 through September 20, 2025.

The Preserve Sporting Club & Resort

US$100 food & beverage credit per stay Welcome amenities Early check-in and late checkout* Room category upgrade* Daily breakfast for two

Cool Kids Summer

Walt Disney World® Resort is the coolest place to make memories with limited-time experiences this summer.

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Savings based on non-discounted price of a three-day or longer standard Walt Disney World Resort Theme Park ticket for kids ages 3–9. Cannot be combined with any other offer or discount. Children must be accompanied by a guest age 14+. Ticket start dates from May 27 through September 20, 2025. ©Disney ©Disney/Pixar ©Hasbro, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

VE N I C E , I TA LY

Ensemble Exclusives

Ensemble Exclusives

R I C H MO N D, R HO D E I S L A N D

Welcome to the most amenity-rich, life-enhancing sporting oasis in the United States. The Preserve Sporting Club & Resort is located on 3,500 scenic acres in Rhode Island, just 20 minutes from the Atlantic Ocean.

This luxury all-season retreat has it all, from fly-fishing and ziplining to an equestrian program and an 18-hole golf course.

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US$100 hotel credit per stay Welcome amenities Early check-in and late checkout* Room category upgrade* Daily breakfast for two

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O U T TA K E

No country dedicates more land to grape vines than Spain. Despite ranking as the driest and windiest of the major Canary Islands, Lanzarote is no exception. At the foot of Timanfaya National Park, the volcanic vineyards of La Geria unfold in a hypnotic mosaic of stone walls. “Everything needs to be protected from the wind — especially the vines,” says photographer Maya Visnyei.

PHOTO: MAYA VISNYEI. TEXT: KATIE SEHL.

Lanzarote, Canary Islands

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FLY OR SAIL ANTARCTICA.

ORNE HARBOUR, ANTARCTICA

Venture to the jaw-dropping beauty of the last continent — whether by sailing the iconic Drake Passage or flying directly to Antarctica. Stay at the southernmost hotel in the world by the end of 2025 or fly over the Southern Ocean. Follow expert-led excursions by day and enjoy premium amenities on board ships designed for off the grid exploration. Here’s to the ones who dream about discovering the undiscovered. To the curiosity that leads you to the edge of the earth — and the joy that meets you there. To Finding More.

Discover Antarctica Contact your Ensemble Travel Advisor for more details.

Travel Better Thank you for traveling with us in the latest issue of Range by Ensemble. Start planning your next journey — beyond these pages — with your trusted Ensemble travel advisor.