Bits and Bites in San Miguel de Allende

The picturesque historic city delivers classic Mexican dishes straight up and with a twist

By Lola Augustine Brown

San Miguel de Allende in Guanajuato State, Mexico, has many charms. The pink adobe buildings and winding streets of the Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, are filled with artisan stores and galleries. Artists, both Mexican and American, have found inspiration here since the 1920s, and impressive murals can be found around the city.

OLD TOWN OF SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE

Wandering the cobblestone streets, I also learn that I’m never far from something truly delicious. Whether I’m in the mood for hearty traditional fare, modern twists on classic dishes or unique foodie experiences, the 16thcentury city delivers on all fronts.

IN THE OLD TOWN

Devouring a sizzling cheese-filled molcajete (a bowl made from volcanic stone) overflowing with chicken, steak, sausage and shrimp at Los Milagros Terraza is the perfect way to start my visit. The restaurant is one huge terrace perched on the hilltop, looking out over the pink adobe buildings and winding streets of the Old Town. After eating far too much and spooning up the last of the cheese, my travelling companions and I, of course, still order a flan just as rich as cheesecake. Our server insists we also try the multi-layered chocolate cake. We leave full and very happy.

SIZZLING MOLCAJETE AT LOS MILAGROS TERRAZA

© LOLA AUGUSTINE BROWN

In contrast, tucked into a historic building opening into a spacious, art-filled dining room, Kab’An riffs on traditional dishes using what’s local and in season. From the tiny shrimp taco topped with pickled red onion amuse-bouche to the smoky spiced ribs with elote salad (Mexican street corn), everything I sample is delicious. At the Luna Tapas Bar, located on the rooftop of the elegant Rosewood San Miguel de Allende, I find more modern takes, along with the prettiest of night-time views out over the city and impressive cocktails. Under the stars, we enjoy a local cheese platter and Spanish hams, followed by crispy churros dipped in a decadent rum-infused sauce.

KAB’AN RESTAURANT

© KAB’AN

Walking the rabbit-warren of historic adobe properties in the Old Town, I discover a pop-up restaurant, champagne bar and tequila tasting room within the bazaar-like Dôce 18 Concept House. On the outside, it’s a grand historic Spanish-style mansion, but once inside, you’re in the midst of a bright, airy atrium filled with art galleries and boutiques, like Dulce Catrina. There, I feel like a kid in a candy store. The staff encourages me to try as many of their local sweet treats as I like before buying. I fill my basket with creamy goat milk caramel candies.

IEW FROM THE ROOFTOP AT LUNA TAPAS BAR

© ROSEWOOD SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE

TASTY SIDE-TRIPS

Driving just 20 minutes east of the city takes you to the San Lucas Vineyard, new on the scene and about to launch its first bottles of flavourful whites. After a tasting paired with local cheeses and fresh fruit, we indulge in huge salads piled high with coconut shrimp, followed by house-made ice cream with lavender grown at the winery as complementary plantings. Seated family-style near the wine cellar, we eat and drink protected from the sun by white curtains billowing in the breeze. It is a fabulous spot to spend a leisurely afternoon.

BOTTLES OF TEQUILA

© ROSEWOOD SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE

The state capital, Guanajuato City (about 90 minutes west by car), also makes for a fabulous culinary diversion. Birthplace of both the Mexican Revolution and muralist Diego Rivera, this buzzing university city has a dynamic culinary scene, but I was blown away by the exquisite cuisine at Mestizo. I nibble on duck tostadas topped with mint leaves, beet salad with soft cheese and candied nuts, and sip on fresh tamarind juice.

At the Antigua Trece Hotel Fusión, we are guided through an incredible tasting journey with charismatic chocolatier Jonathan Martinez. He takes us on a storytelling adventure as we slowly sip premium mezcal and take bites of incredible chocolates infused with sour nopal cactus fruit, caramels topped with ground ants, chicharrón and huitlacoche (corn fungus). It was a sensual experience that gave me a fuller appreciation of mezcal and fed my enduring adoration of cacao. It marked the end of a perfect week of culinary delights in this beautiful, historic region of Mexico.

I’m never far from something truly delicious. Whether I’m in the mood for hearty traditional fare, modern twists on classic dishes or unique foodie experiences, the 16th-century city delivers on all fronts.

Leaving San Miguel de Allende, I can’t help but feel that I missed so much. What I really need is a longer trip – say a month or perhaps a season – to taste it all, and immerse myself in its deliciousness. It’s easy to see why the city attracts many expats and how I could imagine myself being one of them.

INSIDER’S TIP

WHERE TO STAY

Named the “World’s Best City” by Travel + Leisure in 2021, San Miguel de Allende attracts visitors with its historic charm, cosmopolitan feel and artistic vibes. Located in the Mexican heartlands, the city boasts Spanish colonial architecture and many cultural gems like the neo-Gothic church Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel. If you’re looking for an epic stay reminiscent of that history and culture, don’t miss these two magnificent hotels, both located in historic San Miguel de Allende so you can easily access the city’s cultural riches.

A hideaway off a cobblestone alley lined with colourful buildings, Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada, A Belmond Hotel offers 37 exquisite rooms and suites with antique furniture, sumptuous fabrics and talavera-tiled bathrooms. Tucked behind the 17th- and 18th-century buildings, you’ll find a large pool fringed with foliage and a lush inner courtyard, making it an ideal sanctuary for some relaxation close to all the city’s action. You can also take part in a culinary journey at the Sazón cooking school on site, where you’ll learn about the bold flavours and rich history of Mexican classics.

For a dreamy hacienda lifestyle, Rosewood San Miguel de Allende offers 67 beautifully appointed rooms, suites and private residences with a mix of 16th-century Spanish and Mexican design elements, such as wood-beamed ceilings and hand-crafted furniture. Experience farm-totable dining at 1826 Restaurant, celebrating Mexico’s rich culinary heritage, or head to Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar for the best skyline views at sunset. You’ll also find a serene spa, tree-lined pools as well as a two-storey boutique offering a selection of products from San Miguel de Allende.

Feeling inspired? Contact your trusted travel advisor to know more and start planning.