Sophisticated and Unsung

Culture and history inspire San Juan’s incredibly delicious culinary scene, from piña coladas and street food to fine dining

By Renée S. Suen

Made up of hundreds of islands surrounded by white sand beaches, the Commonwealth of Puerto Rico is a known and beloved tropical paradise. However, like many, I had misconceptions about the Caribbean island prior to visiting. Until recently, I didn’t realize it was a territory of the United States. But as a destination diner, I had also embarrassingly overlooked its sophisticated and thriving culinary scene.

OLD SAN JUAN

Besides being a hub of culture and history with a colourful array of colonial architecture within its walled historic district, the capital of San Juan blossoms with scrumptious flavours. The latter shouldn’t be a surprise. This is where the piña colada was created, after all.

THE PIÑA COLADA, A MIX OF COCONUT CREAM, PINEAPPLE JUICE AND RUM, WAS BORN IN SAN JUAN

© LA FACTORIA

Captivated by cocina criolla (cuisine created by mostly Spanish colonists using traditional recipes that incorporate Caribbean ingredients and cooking techniques), I find world-class restaurants and roadside stands serving fare distinctly influenced by its Spanish, African and native Taíno (indigenous Caribbean) history and flavours. Sure, there are corporate American-leaning options or Distrito T-Mobile, a two-hectare entertainment, retail and dining destination, but a simple search reveals a generation of local chefs and visionaries who have made this one of the Caribbean’s premier culinary destinations.

With food playing an integral role in the city’s identity, I take a crash course by eating my way through it, including participating in the local practice of chinchorreo, kioskhopping to chinchorros (food stalls). It’s a typical group activity, but I do it solo, if only to satisfy my gluttony.

A MODEST RESTAURANT (CHINCHORRO) SERVES ALL KINDS OF TRADITIONAL FOOD

© FERNANDO OTIZ

I experience my first true taste of the traditional dish mofongo at La Parrilla in Los Kioskos de Luquillo, a strip of restaurants and bars along Luquillo beach. Made from mashed deep-fried green plantains, garlic and crispy chicharrónes, it is typically served with meat, but I choose to pair it with seafood. Enjoying my order al fresco, I encounter tender conch tossed in an umami-rich creole sauce cascading down the hearty starch-based patty. Mildly sweet and wildly satisfying, I find myself resisting the temptation of licking the plate.

Heading into the city, I revel in the inventive cuisine of the island’s top chefs, where local products and traditional flavours are executed with a contemporary flair. For modern creole cuisine, I head to lauded chef Mario Pagán’s namesake restaurant. With an attentive staff guiding me through a gustatory journey, I savour the flow of thoughtfully prepared dishes coming out of the kitchen.

© MARIO PAGÁN’S

My taste buds happy dance for an opening stack of crispy crunchy bacalaítos (salt cod fritters) paired with El Palo de Mario, a refreshing cocktail that spikes a mango-kissed ginger elixir with bourbon. A refined version of the kiosk staple, these fritters blow all other bar snacks out of the water. I find myself chasing these punchy, tantalizing flavours for the rest of my visit.

At Santaella, prominent chef José Santaella’s trendy, energetic playground in Santurce, I experience the joys of the lively Puerto Rican table. The meal becomes a celebration spent with dangerously easy-to-drink cocktails, gregarious staff and well-heeled guests that quickly become new friends. Here, the chef elevates cocina criolla through delectable twists stemming from his international training and use of quality local, organic and sustainable ingredients – a feat given the island’s reliance on food imports. The results are ethereal – quesadillas stuffed with oozing goat cheese glazed in a honey and white truffle oil dressing and unctuous creole stewed veal cheeks glistening on a bed of mashed yautia root.

© SANTAELLA

I place my trust in the hands of Michelin star-trained Juan José Cuevas at the historic Condado Vanderbilt Hotel’s upscale 1919 Restaurant. Proudly showcasing pristine artisanal products, his world-class tasting menu is a parade of meticulously crafted courses paired with a glass of Greek orange wine from the restaurant’s impressive cellar. The aromatic sliced truffle and crispy walnut laden Acquerello risotto is exceptional with a savoury Sangiovese, but I’m most enchanted by the crackly golden fried dompline (arepa-like fried bread) – an otherworldly match for the international cheese course.

© 1919 RESTAURANT

Where 1919 demonstrates restraint, Semilla Kitchen & Bar happily infuses familiar recipes with Puerto Rican flavours. A bustling gem best known for its flavour-packed brunch plates, my senses explode with a first bite of the succulent slow-cooked pork that tops fufu (little dough-like nuggets found in West African cuisine) with crumbled chorizo. Tuna tartare rancheros is a playful dish, but I salivate in my recollections of its brioche-based French toast with a topping of almonds, fruit, and guava-cream cheese sauce – a nod to quesitos de guayaba pastries found in every Puerto Rican bakery.

© RENÉE S. SUEN

Based on strong recommendations from the servers at Barullo Taberna Española, I trek past the picturesque oceanfront view along Carolina to Kiosko El Boricua in Piñones before heading to the airport. Feasting on made-to-order frituras like pionono (plantain roll) stuffed with crabmeat, juicy charcoal-grilled chicken pinchos (similar to tapas), served with a crispy arepa and platter-sized bacalaítos, I have a transcendent experience on their alcapurrias. Shielded by a brittle golden crust, these torpedo-shaped fritter burst with a mouth-watering picadillo filling surrounded by fluffy masa (made from ground corn).

KIOSKO EL BORICUA IN PIÑONES

© RENÉE S. SUEN

ENJOYING A BACALAÍTO AND COCKTAIL BY THE BEACH

© OMARK REYES

The humble street snack is another culinary epiphany I experience in San Juan. Here, life’s simplest food pleasures – unpretentious and ever-present – have always pleased those in the know. Now, it’s time for the rest of the world to catch up.

INSIDER’S TIP

A DAY IN SAN JUAN

If you’re cruising the Caribbean, there’s a very good chance your ship will stop in San Juan, as it’s among the most popular ports of call in the region. And you wouldn’t want it any other way! Even if you’re only here for a day, there’s plenty to see, do and taste within walking distance of your ship.

© OMARK REYES

Puerto Rico’s capital is an artful mix of old and new, with a rich 500-year history and all the amenities modern travellers look for. Old San Juan is the city’s historic district, and it’s where most cruise ships dock when stopping in Puerto Rico. Step outside and stroll to the left to find the Paseo de la Princesa, an urban waterfront promenade where you can admire the magnificent Raíces Fountain, one of the most romantic spots in the city.

Then, head for the candy-coloured Spanish colonial buildings that line the cobblestone streets. The city’s history is on display everywhere here, from the 16th-century Iglesia de San José to the Plaza de Armas, one of San Juan’s main squares. As you explore, you’ll bask in the city’s lively atmosphere, tropical elegance and authentic exuberance. You might even encounter people dancing to the rhythm of salsa music or improvising a jazz concert!

If you feel like a relaxing beach day, San Juan has some great ones, like the uncrowded Playa Peña, which is easily accessible within a few minutes’ walk from Old San Juan.

And while you explore all the city has to offer, make sure to indulge in its assortment of gastronomic delights before you embark on your ship to your next extraordinary destination.