TUSCANY Walls

RAFFAELE GIANNETTI

TUSCANY

Walls

221 classic and modern routes between the Apuan Alps and the Argentario

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | CLIMBING

iCLIMBING APP

FREE DOWNLOAD

First edition June 2021 ISBN 978 88 55470 407 Copyright © 2018 VERSANTE SUD – Milano (I), via Longhi, 10. Ph. +39 02 7490163 www.versantesud.it All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover image

Patrizio Buricchi, Nona sinfonia. © Roberto Milazzo

Text

Raffaele Giannetti

Drawings and topos

Chiara Benedetto

English translation

Alexandra Ercolani

Maps

Tommaso Bacciocchi. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map

Symbols

Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout

Enrico Caroli

Printing

Press Grafica s.r.l. – Gravellona Toce (VB), Italy Thanks

s ZERO mile ook is This guideband locally homegroprwn oduced

ZERO miles!

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook.

It’s locally produced!

It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote climbing in the area reviewed.

Climbers benefit from local authors: – locals know the latest news and updates – locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” spots – locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in equipping new crags Local authors promote and respect their area: – they review only the spots where climbing is allowed – they pay attention in the same way to any different spot – they meaningfully interact with local actors

This guide book was possible thanks to the work started by our late and sadly missed Recchia and Francescini, whose editor passed the baton to me. We owe the idea of this volume to them and it is from their edition that I started again, to update, add and correct. For this edition I must thank first of all Gregorio Pedrini and Federico Lazzini for their great help in obtaining information, visiting sites, for the routes and the photos taken together. I must also thank Enrico Tomasin for his notes and reports, Claudio Bacci for his enormous support in revising the Procinto area, Alberto Benassi, Emanuele Stefanelli and Giampietro Lucchetti for their numerous reports and photographic equipment. And thanks to all those not mentioned who in their own way have helped me complete this guide book.

Note

Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

ZERO miles This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

2% of the proceeds from this guidebook are re-invested in material for re-bolting routes and crags

RAFFAELE GIANNETTI

TUSCANY Walls 221 classic and modern routes between the Apuan Alps and the Argentario

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

Summary Thanks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 General map . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Symbols . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Scale of difficulties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Historical Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Back up points . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Sketches of areas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

NORTHERN APUAN ALPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

01. Pizzo d'Uccello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

02. Torri di Monzone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

03. Costiera di Capradossa . . . . . . . . . . . .

04. Garnerone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

05. Monte Cavallo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

26 54 68 72 80

CARRARA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84

06. Monte Pesaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 07. Pennone di Pratazzolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90

MASSA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92

08.

09.

10.

11.

12.

13.

4

Zucco delle Marzoline . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Monte Antona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 Monte Tecchia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Monte Campaccio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Pizzone degli Alberghi . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 Monte Altissimo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110

UPPER VERSILIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114

14.

15.

16.

17.

18.

19.

20.

21.

Monte Alto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Monte Matanna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Monte Nona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Monte Procinto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Monte Croce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Monte Forato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pania della Croce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Monte Corchia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

116 120 124 128 142 148 152 156

GARFAGNANA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170

22. Monte Rovaio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

23. Sassorosso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

24. Roccandagia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

25. Pania Secca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

172 178 186 190

SOUTHERN TUSCANY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202

26. Capo D’uomo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204

23

03 02

01 04

05

12 07

06

24

08

09 11

22 10

13 25 21

20 19

14

18 17 16 15

26

5

Pizzo d'Uccello - South wall, Manuela Ricciardi, Heidy (© Marco D'Amato) ↑

INTRODUCTION

In the collective stereotype Tuscany represents cities of art, the Chianti hills, seas, islands, its archipelago. But if we talk about multi pitch routes, the Apuan Alps come to mind where the majority of the classic and modern routes are found, some immersed in untouched nature others wedged in between the devastation of the white marble quarries.

From the 1000 metres of Pizzo d’Uccello’s north face, to the more modern routes on Procinto up to the difficult grades of the imposing rock face of Nona; On this journey between sea and mountain we will visit the routes which look over the blue sea of Argentario for a full exploration from north to south of climbing in Tuscany.

Evaluation of their beauty Ù Route not recommended, abandon idea ÙÙ Discrete

route, for who has already done everything ÙÙÙ Nice route, deserces to be repeated ÙÙÙÙ Amazing

route, recommended ÙÙÙÙÙ Marvellous route, absolutely not to be missed

INTERNATIONAL LAND-AIR RESCUE SIGNS FOR HELICOPTERS AND PLANES WE NEED HELP Land-air signs

Red flare or light

Yes

Land-air signs

No Red material / red flag Square shape 100x100cm.

Red central circle (60cm diameter).

White ring 15cm

6

WE DON’T NEED HELP

PROTECTION S1

Normal protection system such as on cliffs.

Average distance between bolts: 3,4 metres.

Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

R1

Easy to protect, always solid, safe and numerous protections. Few compulsory passages. Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

S2

Distant bolts and compulsory passages from one bolt to another. Potential length of fall: a maximum of 10 metres; fall without danger.

R2

Fairly easy to protect, always solid and safe protections, smaller in number. Compulsory passages between protections. Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

S3

Distant bolts, almost always compulsory passages. A distance of sometimes more than 5 metres between bolts. Long falls but not very dangerous.

R3

Difficult to protect, not always good protections, bolts rather distant from each other. Long compulsory passages. Potential length of fall until 7-8 metres, fall with possible injury.

S4

Very distant bolts (more than 7 metres), compulsory passages. A fall can potentially cause an injury.

R4

Difficult to protect, scarce and/or unreliable and/or distant protections which could allow just a small fall. Long compulsory passages. Potential length of fall until 15 metres with possibility of losing the anchors. Fall with a high possibility of injury.

S5

Bolts more than 10 metres apart, compulsory passages and parts where a fall can surely cause an injury (fall on terraces and ledges or directly to the ground).

R5

Difficult to protect, scarce, unreliable and/or distant protections, which could allow just a small fall. Long compulsory passages. Possibility of long falls that might lead to the ground with consequent serious injuries.

S6

Partially bolted but far from cruxes, long parts (more than 20 metres) from which a fall could be mortal.

R6

Not possible to protect but for short and insignificant passages far from cruxes. A fall could be mortal.

V

Very long route, big wall style, requires a bivvi on the wall. Difficult downclimb, difficult surrounding.

OVERALL FEATURES I

II

Short route just taking a few hours, near the road and with a comfortable approach track, nice surrounding and easy downclimb.

Multi-pitch route on a wall of more than 200 metres of length, easy approach track, rather long, easy downclimb.

III

Long route of more than 300 metres that will take all day long, difficult surrounding. Long approach track and rather slow downclimb.

IV

Very long route of more than 500 metres, on severe wall far away from the bottom of the valley.

It will take you all day long and the downclimb might be complicated, as you can‘t climb down the same route.

VI

VII

Big wall which requires more days on the walls, High Mountain surrounding, difficult downclimb.

All the features of the 6th grade, but exasperated, such as on big walls in the Himalayas, which need a real expedition.

7

Historical Introduction

The mountains are mute masters and make silent disciples.

(Johan Wolfgang Von Goethe) What better sentence to convey the atmosphere one breathes along the confined slopes we so much love? The mountains, our mysterious masters. Either arduous or with a gradual gradient, covered by thick woods or by barren bushes, they will never stop teaching us something, even after thousands of ascents, even when we believe we can conquer them.

And the Apuan Alps fit right into this description, their indisputable uniqueness confers them with a deep romanticism. Their profile, unusual for a typical Apennine ridge, looks like the jump on the ECG (electrocardiogram) chart which has been regular for a long time. The rebellion of nature, which tired of drawing gradual lines, has woken up for an instant giving us harsh peaks with fascinating shapes. Just like the humps of the Gobbe del Cavallo, the imposing towers of Corchia and the window of Forato. Or like Procinto, the “panettone” where nature’s inspiration seems to have found fertile land creating a rocky spur shaped like a quartz wedged in the woods. All under the protection of the King (Pisanino) and the Queen (Pania) majestic pyramids with features which are on a par with the more popular alpine high lands. And it is right on these peaks, among us their silent disciples, there is someone who has dared leave a mark in our memory by opening routes which even now still brighten our days.

These are the stories of the great alpinists who succeeded one another on these mountains which due to their peculiar morphology and specific geology of “slippery limestone rock subject to karst erosion” have always represented some fascinating challenges for each one of them.

8

Initially object of exploration on the part of the brave cartographers or daring woodsmen, the Apuan ridges became terrain for the first climbing attempts only towards the second half of the XIX century immediately attracting the attention of the major Italian and foreign alpinists (if you think of the great Douglas W.Freshfield, English alpinist and his fellow countryman, Richard Henry Budden, known in the environment as the apostle of alpinism, so in love with the Apuan mountains that he contributed decisively in promoting their tourism and mountaineering as president of the Florentine section of C.A.I.) End of the 40’s ↓

This is how the first feats were accomplished signed among many by Aristide Bruni, Efisio Vangelisti and Angelo Bertozzi (first ascent of Procinto) Emilio Quésta (winter ascent on Pania Secca and the ascent of Punta Secca) and Lorenzo Bozano (first ascent of Contrario and Cavallo) until the first attempts of “violating” the north face of Pizzo d’Uccello by the climbers from Genoa A. Sabbadini, A Daglio and A. Frisoni as well as the brothers Sergio and Vinicio Ceragioli, true legends of alpinism in those days, to whom we need to thank for the ascent of the North East arête of Procinto, the first V° grade of the Apuan mountains and the route on the west face of the panettone.

But the Ceragioli brothers deserve the merit of achieving their great mountaineering activity which leads, among other things, to the opening of two important routes: the route of the same name on the west face of Monte Contrario as well as the West arête of Monte Penna di Sumbra, this last one is a classic for many alpinists but when it was opened (10 June 1935) it was for those days a true feat as well as being one of the very first ascents on the north face of Pizzo d’Uccello, subsequent only to the feat of the climbers from Genova. On the base of the itinerary set up by the two brothers, in

1940 the route Oppio- Colnaghi was born (by Nino Oppio and Serafino Colnaghi from Lombardia) and is currently the most popular route to conquer the steep and arduous north face of Pizzo.

It is on the first pitches of this very well known ascent, that the alpinists Nerli, Biagi and Zucconi, opened the route via dei Pisani which shares the terminal part of the route. Angelo Nerli as well as having opened many classic Apuan routes among which Canalino Nervi, fascinating and accessible route on the north east face of Grondilice, the route Nerli-Amadei-Scatena on Altissimo, Nervi on the north face of Pisanino is remembered for his guide book “Alpi Apuane” (Guide ai Monti d’Italia-Club Alpino Italiano and Touring Club) a proper description of the history of alpinism on the Apuan Alps and still to this day one of the reference texts for those who wish to tackle the protected Apuan routes.

For the second edition of this guide book, in 1979, Nerli collaborates with Attilio Sabbadini and with alpinism’s legend in those days: Euro Montagna. A unique figure and unforgettable alpinist, as in the case of Nerli, Montagna leaves us an imposing and meticulous heritage with the bibliographic copy of the Apuan mountains, the basis, obligatory, for any successive publications.

Pizzo Biagi, Nerli, 1972

9

Pizzo Saette, 1969

Monte Nona, 1972

In mountaineering terms, one of the most fascinating classic routes of the Apuan mountains is his: the Pilastro Monatagna on Pania Secca, opened in 1963. Fifth grade, long ascent and difficult to retreat while the approach walk, certainly spectacular for a passionate alpinist, is very difficult and quite adventurous. Likewise for the route’s equipment which in some sections is the original one.

Gian Carlo Dolfi, born in 1930, is among the leading characters, deservedly so, of Italian alpinism of the 50’s and 60’s who counts many first ascents which have to this day become real classic ascents. Above all the route Luisa, better knowns as Dolfi-Rulli, on the east face of Procinto. A masterpiece of beauty and logic. But this is only one of his many feats which we remember vividly.

Other ascents linked to his name are Torre Francesca (known as spigolo Dolfi) on the buttress of Pizzo delle Saette or the routes of Corchia as well as the first solo ascent of the route Oppio-Colnaghi on the north face of Pizzo d’Uccello.

10

In these days of mountaineering legends the only bastion to resist untouched is the south west face of monte Nona, for this reason considered impossible to climb. The very strong Ceragiola brothers had to succumb to this terrible ascent allowing it to carry that divine aura which resisted for years. It was only thanks to the introduction of technological innovation, the controversial compression bolts, that it was possible to conquer it. It was the brothers E. and G.L. Vaccari (from here the name, via Vaccari) in 1966 that reached the summit conquering the terrible ascent.

After them Agostino Bresciani and Mario Piotti followed opening the route in 1969 Via Licia and in 1971, to the left of via Vaccari, Giovanni Bertini, Emi- lio Dei, Michele Lopez and Mario Verin passed by tracing the route via dei Fiorentini.

During the 60’s it was Mario Verin, from the Dolfi school, who made the first repetition, solo of the route via dei Pisani together with the alpinists G. Bertini, L. Beninca- si, A.Bresciani, G. Crescimbeni and M.Piotti contributing to opening the routes Gamma (the original name was G.A.M.M. using the initials of the climbers who opened the route), Stefania, Gabriella and XXV Aprile on Procinto.

Among these, we have to mention Mario Piotti born in Genova and decorated with the recognition of CAI Academic and in those years a legendary figure in alpinism. He always climbed and trained on his own as if climbing meant more to him than simply sport. In the climbing world he is remembered above all for having “tamed” more than once the steep imposing north face of Pizzo d’Uccello so much so that he made it seem easy. The routes Gran Diedro Nord, via Piotti- Calcagno, the winter ascent of the via dei Genovesi and the Fessura Obliqua carry his name.

If the past is illuminated by the light of these legends the present is equally so. In fact it is thanks to their example that many youngsters have approached high level alpinism, creating a group which has nothing to envy the more well known alpine locations. To the new generations of climbers it is thanks to the introduction of modern technique which, together with technological change (above all the introduction of the expansion bolt) have once more allowed to raise the bar, making it possible to climb routes that were once considered impossible.

On an imaginary line dividing the past and present, the first name which deserves to be mentioned is that of Claudio Ratti strong alpinist and then Mountain Guide who achieved many ascents among which the Ratti-Guadagni and the Ratti-Martini on the North face of Pizzo d’Uccello.

In this period (70’s) G.Crescimbeni, S. Trentarossi and G. Banti climb the entire route via dei Genovesi achieving the first winter ascent of the North face of Pizzo d’Uccello. But it is the 80’s which mark a true revolution in the Apuan alpinism. In those years Roberto Vigiani born in 1961 draws attention to himself, and it is thanks to him that we now have two of the most extreme ascents on the Apuan scene: Muro delle Ombre (with Federico Schlutter) on the north face of Pizzo d’Uccello, a difficult route due to the long run outs on loose rock, but above all Nona Sinfonia, developed on the south-west face of Monte Nona, definitely the most difficult multi pitch to this day on the Apuan mountains. But it is also thanks to Roberto Vigiani that many routes on Procinto have been bolted, and that he has made the ascent more accessible and ideal for sports climbing.

Torrione Figari, Scarpe al tennis, 70's ↓

11

During the 80’s remarkable steps forward are made in terms of winter alpinism: Massimo Boni opens the first modern ice routes of high difficulty. The most well known now is the difficult Canale Elisabetta (with Giuliano Pasqui) on the North face of Pizzo delle Saette. Of equal merit the very well known Stefano Funck, following in his father’s footsteps, opened many routes on the Apuan mountains (north face of Pizzo d’Uccello, Contrario, Torri di Monzone, etc) but his merit is especially bolting the routes vie Fantastica al Nona and Dimensione Montagna on the south of Simbra (still untouched in terms of a free ascent) until that moment a wall which had not been climbed on much.

Between the II and III millennium the partnership made up by Mauro Franceschini and Fabrizio Recchia (who have sadly left us in 2017) bolts numerous routes on the Torri di Monzone and on the south face of Pizzo d’Uccello as well as the routes Pinacolada on the Torre Torracca (Garnerone), Scorzausei and D’Angelo Custone (this together with Antonella Gallo) on monte Campaccio.

Grondilice Nord, 1969

12

Finally it is the turn of the Monte Forato school, among whom we find Alberto Benassi, Claudio Bacci, Giancarlo Polacci, Alessandro Angelini and many others, all very active in the opening of mountaineering routes in the Apuan mountains.

Among the various achievements: E se fossero stati gli alieni? sul Monte Croce, Bacci e Abbracci al Procinto, le vie Amico Almo, Stella Polare, Per un pugno di spit, Indietrotutta, and Spinix al Corchia.

Always on Corchia, among the most repeated, there is Padre Corchia and La Volpe e la Folaga, by Alessandro Bertagna, another important person in the Apuan scene of the 90’s.

And coming to the present day, handing down the feats of the great climbers of the past, there are mainly 3 groups of climbers present on the Apuan territory: the school of Monte Forato, the Guides of ProRock Outdoor and Versante Apuano who organize courses of ski-mountaineering and climbing and act as spokespersons on many initiatives to promote the territory.

Nord Monte Sagro, 1973

Monte Procinto, Gabriella

Biagi, Nerli, August 1971 ↑ Garnerone, September 1973 ↓

Many are the names which we were not able to describe in depth, such as Bruno Barsuglia, Paolo Bertolucci, Fabrizio Convalle, Giorgio Giannaccini, Massimo Innocenti, Giampietro Lucchetti, Albino Malerba, Cesare Maestri, Leonardo Piccini, Cristiano Virgilio, the climbers from Carrara Andrea Marchetti, Renzo Gemignani, Fedele Codega and Silvano Bonelli. We apologize to anyone who has not been mentioned, but we can assure you that there will be future occasions for remembering your unforgettable exploits.

Abseiling →

13

Back up points RIFUGIO CARRARA Località Campocecina, Carrara, 54033 (MS) Tel. +39 338 5780668 The rifugio Carrara is situated at Campocecina at 1320m above sea level, and is open all year round but has 36 beds. Easy to reach by car.

RIFUGIO CITTÀ DI MASSA Via dei Colli, Pian della Fioba, 54100 (MS) Tel. +39 338 9350953 The rifugio Città di Massa is situated at Pian della Fioba at an altitude of 900m. It is open from June to September and during the weekends, it is also possible to stay overnight and has 25 beds.

Rifugio Città di Massa

RIFUGIO NELLO CONTI Via Vandelli, Resceto, 54100 (MS) Tel. +39 0585 793059 Rifugio Nello Conti is situated at an altitude of 1420m, at Campaniletti, on the side of via Vandelli which goes from Resceto to Tambura, opened during the summer it can host 24 people.

RIFUGIO LA QUIETE Provinciale road of Arni, Stazzema, 55040 (LU) Tel. +39 338 9350953 The hut is situated on the pastures of Puntato. It is possible to stay overnight and eat all year round.

14

Rifugio Nello Conti

RIFUGIO ADELMO PULITI Località Case Giannelli, Stazzema, 55040 (LU) Tel. +39 340 6797834 The hut is situated at Arni, in Case Giannelli along path number 31-33. Opened every Sunday, even during winter except for rainfall or snow; it is possible to book and there are 14 places available.

RIFUGIO FORTE DEI MARMI Località Alpe della Grotta, Stazzema 55040 (LU) Tel. +39 331 3277741 Ideal starting point for all the sectors of Upper Versilia, Il Rifugio is situated in Alpe della Grotta at 865m of altitude and is owned by C.A.I. di For- te dei Marmi. It has 25 beds available and is opened throughout the summer season and weekends.

Rifugio Forte dei Marmi

PANIA FORATA HOSTEL Via del Teatro 205, Pruno, 55040 (LU) Tel. +39 333 6725870 Inside the beautiful town of Pruno it offers many beds and excellent cuisine.

RIFUGIO GIUSEPPE DEL FREO Località Foce Di Mosceta, Stazzema, 55040 (LU) Tel. +39 333 7343419 Rifugio Del Freo, owned by C.A.I. of Viareggio, is situated in the valley of Mosceta, between the peaks of Pania della Croce, of Monte Corchia and Pizzo delle Saette. Opened during the summer period and the weekends, it can hold up to 57 people.

15

Rifugio Rossi

RIFUGIO ROSSI ALLA PANIA Prati Della Pania, Molazzana, 55020 (LU) Tel. +39 0583 710386 Rifugio Rossi is on the northern side of Monte Omo Morto, and can be reached only on foot at roughly one hour and a half from Piglionico. Opened during the summer period and on weekends it can hold up to 22 people.

RIFUGIO GUIDO DONEGANI Località Orto di Donna, Minucciano, 55034 (LU) Tel. +39 340 2851088 Can easily be reached by car, rifugio Donegan is situated at the foot of the majestic Apuan mountains, excellent starting point for the ascents to Pizzo D'Uccello, Pisanino, Cavallo, Contrario, Grondilice and Garnerone.

Rifugio Donegani

16

RIFUGIO VAL SERENAIA Località Orto di Donna, Minucciano, 55034 (LU) Tel. +39 328 0136377 Rifugio val Serenaia is situated in località Orto di Donna, and can be easily reached by car or along an asphalt road which detours for 5 km from the provincial road which connects Aulla to Castelnuovo Garfagnana (precisely between Minucciano and Gramolazzo). It has 50 places to eat outside and 20 inside, and has an active bar and restaurant service, where it is possible to eat lunch, dinner or have abundant snacks. Upstairs it has two very large rooms with 12 beds and a bathroom in common as well as two double rooms with private bathroom. At 100m from the mountain there is a camp site for campers and tents with toilets and mini-laundry room.

RISTORO ALTO MATANNA Località Alto Matanna, Stazzema, 55060 (LU) Tel. +39 0584 776005 Can be reached by car, Ristoro Alto Matanna, is situated on the eastern side of Callare di Matanna.

BIVACCO ARONTE The Bivacco Aronte was the first mountain hut built on the Apuan Alps in 1902, and risks to disappear due to advancing of the marble quarry of Passo della Focolaccia situated below Monte Cavallo.

To this day the bivouac is always open and offers 8 beds, and is managed by Massa’s C.A.I.

Bivacco Aronte

RIFUGIO ORTO DI DONNA Località Ex Cava 27, Minucciano, 55034 (LU) Tel. +39 347 3663542 The rifugio Orto di Donna, is situated below monte Contrario, near Cava 27, and can be reached on foot from Val Serenaia with roughly 1 hour and a half walking. Opened during summer it can host up to 46 people.

BIVACCO K2 Bivacco K2 is situated on the north side of Monte Contrario a few dozen metres from path n.179.

To have its keys you have to contact Carrara’s Alpine Club.

CAPANNA GARNERONE Wooden prefabrication, recently restructured, inside it is possible to sleep overnight and cook, it can host up to 18 people. The mountain hut is situated in a conifer wood, along path n. 37.

To get the keys you have to contact Carrara’s Alpine Club.

Capanna Garnerone

17

MASSA Monte Sagro Pesaro

Pizzo Uccello

Pisanino

Garnerone

Grondilice

Cavallo

Contrario

Torri di Monzone (dietro)

Colonnata

Pennone di Pratazzolo

Miseglia

Codena

Bedizzano

Pizzone degli Alberghi

Tambura Sumbra Monte Antona

Casette

Altissimo

Antona

Monte Tecchia Canevara

Campaccio

UPPER VERSILIA Pania Secca Corchia

Pania della Croce

Forato

Pruno

Monte Alto Levigliani

Cardoso

Volegno

Terrinca Pontestazzemese

20

Croce

Matanna

Procinto Nona

Pomezzana Stazzema

Mulina

21

GARFAGNANA Pania Secca

Pizzo delle Saette Pania della Croce

VIAREGGIO

Lido di Camaiore

Corchia

Freddone

Pietrasanta

Porreta

Monte Rovaio

22

Forte dei Marmi

Altissimo Sumbra

Sella e Alto di Sella Cavallo Roccandagia

Sella e Alto di Sella

Marina di Massa

Marina di Carrara

MASSA

Vagli Sopra Fontana delle Monache

Vagli Sotto

La

go

di

Vag

li

Careggine

23

NORTHERN APUAN ALPS Marble crown of threatening peaks, the great Apuan Alps reign over the bitter kingdom, from their pride..”. That is how the writer Gabriele d’Annunzio described the majestic coarseness of the Apuan mountains, which, on the northern side offers unique landscapes just like Monte Pisanino, which with its 1946 metres of altitude is considered the “king” of the mountain chain; or Pizzo d’Uccello, which with its north face offers what is known as the wall of all walls, or else 700 metres of vertical height gain, which ever since 1925 the first attempts of climbing this face were made and where currently all the longest and most important routes run up it. Torri di Monzone are just as fascinating with their compact limestone offering a large amount of fun multi pitch routes, or the Garnerone-Grondilice ridge, where the striking pinnacles of Vacchereccia rise, an area where many local climbers had their first mountaineering experience thanks to the easy route “Via degli allievi”.

In the northern Apuan mountains, as in the rest of all the mountain chain, there are many mountain huts and bivouacs present where it is possible to eat and stay overnight to fully enjoy the magic of these wild mountains.

01. Pizzo d'Uccello 02. Torri di Monzone 03. Costiera di Capradossa

04. Garnerone 05. Monte Cavallo

Pizzo Nord (© Giuseppe Faggioni)

24

Montefiore

Vigneta Gassano

Alebbio

Luscignano

Gragnola

Casola in Lunigiana Argigliano

Codiponte

Cortila

Pieve San Lorenzo

Casciana Ugliancaldo

Mezzana

Minucciano

Equi Terme

Isolano Aiola

Viano

Monzone Cecina

Tenerano Pizzo dell’Aquila 1286 

02

1237 Torre di Monzone 1202  Torre di Tenerano 

Vinca

03 01

1781 

Torrione di Capradossa  1600

Pizzo Uccello

Rif. Donegani



1720 



1469

M. Borla

1753



1639

Rif. Orto di Donna

M. Grondilice

Monte Sagro 

1809



1421

M. Rasori

1947 

Pizzo Maggiore 1795 

Cima Garnerone

04

M. Pisanino

Rif. Val Serenaia

K2

1789  05 M. Contrario 1888 

M. Cavallo

M. Spallone

25

01

Northern Apuan Alps

PIZZO D'UCCELLO - North Face A symbolic mountain in the Apuan Alps, “Pizzo” is famous above all for the total length of its north face: 8-900 metres, giving it the name of “the Apuan Matterhorn”. It is situated entirely on the northern side of the Apuan mountains and is among one of the most popular summits, comparable to the largest rock faces of the Dolomites or the western Alps. “It consists of an elevated rocky cone which makes up Pizzo itself, where in the past shepherds used to light the fires of S.Giovanni as well as on the three ridges leading off this (Nattapiana, foce di Giovo, Capradossa)” Well known climbers have set up climbing routes here over the years, the Ceragioli brothers, Oppio, Ratti, Piotti, De Bertoldi, Biagi, Nerli, Vigiani, Virgilio leaving us with the pleasure of repeating them.

The most recurring sound, in spite of the surrounding environment being dominated lower down by quarries and up high by countless choughs and crows, seems to be the sound coming from the stones which fall; this pretty much sums up the rock’s quality which alternates compact sections and other mediocre sections where it is very important to look where hands and feet are placed. In fact as a good Apuan climber who constantly checks the quality of the rock by listening to the sound of the holds by knocking on the rock, the skin on my knuckles gets worn out before the skin of my fingers. There are many stories of climbers who after climbing routes which are not repeated much on the north face have continued knocking with their knuckles even on the rock of the normal descent route.

There are also some routes characterized by good rock with only short sections which require care, as for example: Be’ mi tempi, Gran Diedro Nord, Marathon and the classic Oppio Colnaghi. You access the mountain from the town of Ugliancaldo or from Orto di Donna, a valley which has been disfigured by the excavation of marble and is surrounded by bold peaks among which Monte Pisanino, Monte Cavallo, Monte Contrario and Monte Grondilice. The earthquake of 2013 has caused damage to some routes, a landslide for example, has ruined the first pitches of via Pan Pepato and to this day it is not possible to climb it.

BACK UP POINTS Rifugio Donegani in Val Serenaia.

ACCESS From the A15 (Parma/La Spezia) motorway exit at the Aulla toll following the SS63 for Passo del Cereto towards Fivizzano. Once past the hamlet of Rometta, after 3 kilometres, turn right towards Garfagnana. From Casola in Lungiana follow sign posts for Ugliancaldo or for Minucciano and Val Serenaia up to rifugio Donegani, depending on the access.

26

PIZZO D'UCCELLO North Face Rif. Donegani Castelnuovo Garfagnana

Minucciano Ugliancaldo

Aulla

Pizzo d'Uccello - North Face ↓

27

!

13 01

09

03 02

12 14

06

04

07

10

18 15

11

05

19 16

17

08

ÙÙ

4. TONI HIEBLER ÙÙ A. Marchetti, G. Arrighi, R. Battistini, D. Carnicelli Total length: 700m Difficulty: VI, V+ obl.

ÙÙ 2. VIA DI SINISTRA ‘66 E. Biagi, M. De Bertoldi, A. Nerli, M. Piotti, R. Pucci, 1966 Total length: 750m Difficulty: V

5. OPPIO COLNAGHI ÙÙÙÙ N. Oppio, S. Colnaghi 1940 The rock face’s classic, watch out! If there are numerous roped parties it is best to deviate onto another route due to the high probability of rock fall.

Total length: 800m Difficulty: V+, V+ obl.

Access: From Rifugio Donegani follow path 187 which sets off in front of the car park, and crosses a quarry road, and continues on the right by climbing up through the beechwood until the Ripiano

1. VIA DI SINISTRA ‘69 F. Cantini, M. De Bertoldi, 1969 Total length: 700m Difficulty: V

3. VIA DI SINISTRA ’77 C. Ratti, M. Guadagni, 1977 Total length: 700m Difficulty: VI, V obl.

28

ÙÙ

di Capradosso (1410m), from which you can enjoy a breath-taking view of the imposing north face.

From here it is best to follow the easy Foce Siggioli ferrata downhill. At the end of the ferrata, take the path which branches off to the left (facing downhill), to leave it almost straight away and take a track which crosses a gully of stones and heads to the base of the rock face. Along terrain which is subject to land slides, you reach the base of the rock face, which you walk along (facing uphill, to the left), almost until its end: The start of the route Oppio Colnaghi is marked with a peg with cords.

P1. III,IV, 40m. Climb diagonally for 3-4 mt. to the right aiming for the peg before the arête, going pass the arête without gaining too much height (1 peg straight after the arête). Continue to the left, up the rock, until you reach a corner with overhang, climb up it along the slab to the left, peg, and then to the right shortly reach the anchor point.

P2. III, 30m.Climb straight up and then continue to the right along a leaning ramp until a short terrace under the overhanging band. Stop before entering the gully on the right (where Biagi Nerli Zucconi begins). S2 on 2 pegs situated on the left together with 2 hammered down, flattened, bolts.

P3. II,III, 50m. Follow the grassy ramp to the left until a corner (the ramp continues), climb up the corner, continue along the upper ramp until a tree.

S3 on tree.

P4. II,III, 50m. Keep following the ramp, climb up a small corner, skip the anchor on 3 pegs, continue along the ramp, climb another small corner, then go round a little pillar with crack to the left, set up anchor just round the pillar. S2 on 2 pegs.

P5. IV,III, 40m. Climb above the anchor point, moving to the left and enter the gully, continue to the anchor point which is visible at the start of the chimney (bottleneck). S4 on 2 pegs.

P6. IV,III, 55m. Go past the bottleneck vertically, coming out on the right up a debris covered ramp, continue along easy rocks (difficult to protect) progress obliquely towards left, until you are near the base of the chimney, S6 on 1 peg and a classic bolt.

P7. IV+, 40m. Continue up the chimney (very narrow at beginning) with sustained difficulties, until you reach a debris covered terrace with writing

“Lotta Continua” (follow the chimney without exiting). S7 on 2 pegs underneath the writing Lotta Continua.

P8. IV+,V, 50m. Climb up the chimney/corner on the right, when the chimney opens up move slightly to the right (do not exit on the right, where there is a variant), climb up further until you traverse to the left to then return in the gully (delicate move on traverse and move downhill, do not climb up too much above the pegs). Return in the chimney to the left, then continue until the anchor after roughly 10-15 metres. S8 on pegs.

P9. IV,V+, 40m. Climb up the chimney until it becomes overhanging, move to the right to exit with athletic move (it is possible to aid) (2 pegs which make the rope do a Z) to come out onto easier rocks. Continue uphill along easy rocks until the anchor point. S9 on 2 pegs.

P10. III,IV, 55m. Continue without an obligatory route up quite easy rocks aiming towards the top of the first pillar (first to the right, then to the left, without obligatory route, moving to the left to then reach the anchor point from the left with the writing “Potere alle masse”. S10 on 2 pegs.

P11. III, 30m. Continue to the right on easy terrain until the base of a grassy and vertical corner. S11 on 2 pegs, one is difficult to use because placed very deeply.

P12. V+, 30m. Climb up the corner (debris covered crack) along the wall on the right for a few metres, then return into the corner and continue straight up to the anchor point, which is situated shortly before the corner’s exit, above a small terrace. S12 on 3 pegs.

P13. III, 30m. Obliquely to the left up an easy ramp until the chimney’s entrance. Anchor point to be set up.

P14. III,IV, 40m. Enter the gully chimney to the left and start climbing up the chimney without leaving it until you set up anchor on a boulder in the middle of the gully. S14 on 2 pegs.

P15. IV, 40m. Continue climbing the featured chimney, first of all slightly to the right, but then returning back straight away, without taking the right hand variant. Under a bottleneck climb up 3-4 metres to go find the anchor point on the left. S15 on 2 pegs.

29

Northern Apuan Mountains > Pizzo d'Uccello - South Face

01

Pizzo d'Uccello - South Face, Mauro Franceschini , Heidy (© Georg Pollinger) →

9. HEIDY ÙÙÙÙ M. Franceschini, M. Terenzi, 1995 Climbed from the ground up Total length: 350m Difficulty: 6a+, 5c obb, S2/III. Equipment: 12 quickdraws, two 50m ropes, friends and nuts are useful.

Great! The wall’s great classic, the difficulties are never extreme but nothing is easy, there are sport climbers who felt invincible who spent all day on the wall and got lost during the descent…

Dedicated to my friend Nicoletta, blonde bob and pink cheeks.

Descent: abseil down the route or on foot down the debris filled gully to the fore summit and then down the normal route of Pizzo d’Uccello.

3 5c 4

5c 5c

5b 6b 5c+ 5b

12

09 11

!

3

5b

4+ 5a

6a

6c 5b

!

6b+

5c

10

6c 5c 09

46

11

47

17 Upper Versilia > Monte Procinto

PARETE EST

6a/b 6b+ 6a+

6b

6c

5c

6b

6a+ 6b

6c 6c 6a

5c

6b/c

06

5b

05

6. LA DANZA DEI TENDINI ÙÙÙ Total length: 50m Difficulty: 6c, 6b obb RS1+ Nice and sustained route, mixed protection (a few pegs, a few old bolts, cord and bolts) You can join up the two upper pitches of Crudelia (6b+ and 6b) and with these exit directly on the summit. The start and the first pitch are in common with the classic route “Luisa” or Dolfi-Rulli.

P1. 5b, 30m. Climb up first slightly obliquely to the left, ignoring an anchor point which is further over to the left, (Crudelia), then straight up to reach on the right a comfortbale anchor point. From here head over to the

132

6b 5c

6b

6b

5b 6a

6a

6b

6b

10

5b

7a+

09

5b

04

6a

6a

6b

6c+ 5c 5c 08

6b+

6a

02 03

6a

6b/+

6b+

5a

6a

5b

6b

6a

6a+

6b/c

6a+

6c

6a/b

5c

6b

5c

6a 6c

11 12 13 14

15 16

left (traverse) Continues on the route Luisa, if instead you climb straight up you reach the route ‘Danza dei tendini”.

P2. 6b/6b+, 20m. From the anchor point straight (bolts and spits, then slightly to the right), ignore the anchor point of “Luisa” on the left and level with a universal peg traverse to the right to the anchor point, in common with the route “Stefania”.

P3. 6c, 30m. From the anchor point obliquely to the left overcoming a first area of compact slabs, obliquely to the left towards a corner which you reach with a difficult move, along this with sustained climbing you reach the final traverse to the left of the anchor point.

7. STEFANIA ÙÙÙ Total length: 95m Difficulty: 6c+, 6a+ obb, S1+ P1. 5b, 20m. Climb up slightly oblique to the left, ignoring an anchor point situated further over to the left (Crudelia), then straight up to reach on the right a comfy anchor point with chain.

P2. 6a, 20m. From the anchor point climb obliquely to the right (the route Dolfi Rulli runs up to the left more or less vertically peg up high to the left of the anchor point) instead Danza dei Tendini joins up a nice athletic corner which you follow slightly obliquely to the right up to the anchor point.

P3. 6c+, 25m. Slightly to the right then directly following the bolts overcoming a difficult bulge (often wet) with crux (eventually aid, A0), then with sustained climbing to the anchor point.

P4. 6a, 25m. From the anchor point continue slightly obliquely to the right aiming towards a corner. The route at this point crosses via Tropicana which with similar difficulties reaches the ledge on its left hand side.

The route is currently bolted to the ledge; the original instead would head to the summit with other two pitches (the peg on the extreme left of the exit ledge is visible) with maximum difficulties of 6c/A1 and 6a+. The fixed in situ protection must be checked and if need be protection should be added. In case of a full repetition the descent is tackled along the via ferrata on the south face.

8. SUPER CRAIG ÙÙÙ Total length: 75m Difficulty: 6b+, 6a+ obb, RS2 The route after many years of being abandoned was protected parsimoniously by G.Polacci during summer 2019 with a few resin anchors instead of the ancient and very rare 8mm bolts and the old and few rotten pegs in the cracks; many of the rock tunnels cords have also been changed. The first pitch was previously re-bolted but changing the itinerary which shared its anchor point with Danza dei tendini and Stefania. A beautiful and aerial route, similar to Tropicana but a lot more difficult with less protection, placed distant and difficult obligatory grades especially along the final pitch.

P1. 5b, 15m. Climb up the easy slab, faded coloured rock with good holds, head onto the ledge with grass and debris, climb the overhang on the right and set up a comfortable anchor point (anchor with chain). Pitches shared with Tropicana and Gamma.

Usually this first section can be joined up with the successive pitch by extending a few protections.

P2. 6b+, 20m. From the anchor point climb up directly using the undercling holds and cracks with great, athletic climbing climb over the difficult move on distant holds and cross over to the right overcoming with a reachy move a difficult crux on slab, reach Tropicana (use the last resin bolt) and set up anchor in common with this route.

P3. 6a, 15m. From the anchor point use the first two resin bolts of Tropicana, then traverse horizontally to the right until a resin bolt, climb the overhang which is full of good holds and set up anchor in common with Tropicana.

P4. 6b, 30m. From the anchor point climb up towards a niche, go past it with difficult, reachy move, continue directly towards a few rock tunnels with cords, aim towards an overhang (resin bolt) overcome it with non evident moves, aim towards a second overhang (resin bolt) and climb it until you set up anchor on the top ledge a few metres to the right of Tropicana.

Descent: abseil down, with single 70m rope from the fourth, third and second anchor point.

133

25 Garfagnana > Pania Secca

4. CRESTA EST ÙÙÙ A. Ciglia, A. Sabbadini ed E. Stagno, 1928 Total length: 200m Difficulty: IV Equipment: Normal mountaineering rack.

Descent: Down the normal route of Pania Secca.

Recommended period: Spring and autumn.

The route runs up a wild environment and is not at all busy, its approach walk must not be underestimated. The route even if it does not offer relevant grades must not be taken lightly due to the difficult conditions of the loose rock, the main dangers in fact come from the frequent rock fall. Set up anchor where it is possible to shelter and to feel safer.

Access: leave the car near the “benches” just before the rocks, follow the dirt road then along tracks and cairns, reach the summit of Pania Verde, continue along an exposed ridge, 80m be careful and proceed by simul climbing (protected), until you reach the base of the wall where a tree is present.

P1. III+, 50m. Set up anchor on tree and climb up following the gully to the left on loose rocks, climb up past a couple trees until you find a kevlar thread on the left and set up anchor.

P2. IIIm 55m. Climb up to the right and follow the ridge’s line, you will find a couple of old Kevlar threads on precarious rock spikes ignore them and continue further on and set up anchor on two large and stable rock spikes. Set up anchor point.

04

Pania Secca, Cresta Est

194

P3. IV, 60m. Continue along the ridge’s line and climb up a small vertical section on the left be careful of the dubious rock, pass through the trees and then return to the right and keep following the ridge’s line (beware of large precarious slabs) climb vertically up among rocks and grass until you reach the top of the ridge where it starts to flatten out, here set up anchor.

P4. I-II, 50m. Transfer pitch on a wider section of ridge which is flat until you reach a visible carved out section where there is an anchor point with chain from via Bimbi-Daprato which runs up the north east route.

P5. IV, 60m. Climb above the anchor point straight up, aiming towards an evident crack, which can be protected with a friend and then turn to the right until you set up anchor on a tree.

P6. II, 30m. From here the route joins up with the north east face’s route a bolt can be found straight away to the right of the tree and just below under a chain. Climb up the wide grassy chimney, until you find an anchor point with chain.

From here with a few steps you will reach the foresummit, with abseil (equipped anchor point in situ) you reach the carved out section, and climb up the rocky structures until the summit II 30m. From the carved out section where there are two bolts it is possible to set up anchor and climb to the top and set up anchor on a large boulder.

05 04 06

5. CRESTA GIALUNGA ÙÙÙÙ Ridge which is on the south east face of Pania Secca, in a harsh environment which is not at all frequented, but is truly marvellous. One of the most complex sections of this route is reaching its start since the approach walk is not at all simple if you don’t know where you are going you risk wasting a lot of time walking around. For this reason we will try to describe the approach walk in detail.

Total length: 700m Difficulty: IV+, IV obl.

Equipment: Normal mountaineering rack with 3 or 4 rings of rope or thick webbing (180) to set up a belay along the ridge.

Recommended period: Spring time and Autumn Access: Leave the car above Fornovolasco in the car park of the old restaurant “Il Tinello” which is along the road. Cross the bridge and 20 metres after on the left take a path which further ahead runs along the electricity line until you reach a meadow where a few old houses pop out. Aim towards the hut up high to the right, behind it turn left following the evident path, continue along it until you reach

an evident gully/marble debris slope, cairn present. Here walk up the gully following the cairns until the gully narrows down and heads into bushes turn left here following cairns.

The line climbs up obliquely to the left, trying to follow the cairns through the woods, cross a first gully and continue until you find another one which is more marked. Cross it and turn right climbing straight up, cairns present, until you reach a saddle with a cut down tree and an evident rock pillar to the left. Continue ahead following a feeble track of a path, cairns present, then turn right up a wide grassy gully and climb up to until you join up with the gully you crossed below previously, cairns present, near a small marble debris slope and large boulders. Cross and pass under the large boulder and continue straight on obliquely and slightly up high to the left until you find yourself at the base of the bastion which gives origin to the ridge. Follow the rock face and go down to the right for a hundred or so metres and then climb up, there is a cut down tree and cairn further ahead.

195