Tuscany and Elba

RAFFAELE GIANNETTI

TUSCANY

and ELBA

91 crags from the Apuan Alps to Argentario

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | CLIMBING

Fifth edition June 2020 ISBN 978 88 85475 939 Copyright © 2020 VERSANTE SUD – Milano (I), via Longhi, 10. Ph. +39 02 7490163 www.versantesud.it All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover image

Luca Lucchesi, L’Imperiale, 8c, San Rocchino (© Olivier Broussouloux)

Text

Raffaele Giannetti

Drawings and topos

Chiara Benedetto

English translation

Alexandra Ercolani

Maps

Tommaso Bacciocchi. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map

Symbols

Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout

Enrico Caroli

Printing

This guide book has been made possible thanks to s.r.l.

Press Grafica Gravellona Toce (VB), the work started by the dear departed Recchia and Franceschini, whose work the editor handed over to me.

Italy

s ZERO mile ook is This guideband locally homegroprwn oduced

ZERO miles!

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook.

It’s locally produced!

It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote climbing in the area reviewed.

Climbers benefit from local authors: – locals know the latest news and updates – locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” spots – locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in equipping new crags Local authors promote and respect their area: – they review only the spots where climbing is allowed – they pay attention in the same way to any different spot – they meaningfully interact with local actors

Thanks

It is thanks to them that this volume was created, it is from their last edition that I set off updating, adding and correcting. For this edition of “Crags” I must especially thank Andrea Gelfi and Samuele Vale ofVersante Apuano, Patrizio Buricchi, Gregorio Pedrini, Paolo Pucci and Davide Bimbi for the enormous help for Garfagnana, Filippo Arigonifor the crags around the Pisa area, Simone Fazzini for the support on southern Tuscany, Luca Lucchesi for the updates on San Rocchino, Enrico Tomasin for the slabs of San Viano and various notes on his climbs, Stefano Zanchetta for the updates on Sant’Anna di Stazzema, Silvano Giorgieri for the work undertaken on the crags of Carrara. And thank you to all those who haven’t been mentioned but who in their own way have helped to complete this guide book.

Note

Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

ZERO miles This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

2% of the proceeds from this guidebook are re-invested in material for re-bolting routes and crags

RAFFAELE GIANNETTI

TUSCANY AND ELBA 91 crags from the Apuan Alps to Argentario

Summary Thanks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Reading scheme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Preface . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Scale of difficulties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

2 6 8 9

CARRARA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

01. Fessura Messner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

02. Gabellaccia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

03. Malpasso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

04. La Perla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

05. Torano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12 16 24 26 28

MASSA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

06. Forno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

07. Uncini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

08. Placche di Antona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

09. Campareccia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

10. Laguna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

11. Montignoso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

12. Il Tempio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32 36 40 44 52 56 60

ALTA VERSILIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

13. Il Secondo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

14. Torre di Belen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

15. Rif. Forte di Marmi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

16. Calamijeans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

17. Lo Zoccolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

18. Monte Procinto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

68 70 74 82 86 90

SANT’ANNA DI STAZZEMA . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96

19. Rocca Petrosa and Grotta dell'Omo . . 98 20. Il Grotto e Grottino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 21. Il Castello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 22. La Vela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 23. Foce di Compito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 24. Lieto Basso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 25. Il Caprone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120 26. Albatrello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 124

4

CAMAIORE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126

27. Muro del Tossico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

28. Muro dei Ganzi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

29. Isola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

30. Tomeoni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

31. Conchetta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

32. Trittico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

33. Grottino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

34. Maruccio Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

35. Muro di Swann . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

36. Ciarro Torre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

37. Saratoga . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

38. Candalla Bassa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

39. Candalla Alta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

40. Placche a Mare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

41. Castagni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

42. Cimitero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

43. Mongololificio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

44. Giardino degli Elfi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

45. Cannelot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

46. San Rocchino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

47. Pensatoio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

48. Primo Pilastro di Setriana . . . . . . . . .

49. Secondo Pilastro di Setriana . . . . . . .

50. Grotta all’Onda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

51. Penna Pirsing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

128 132 134 138 140 142 146 152 154 158 162 164 178 190 192 194 200 202 206 212 218 220 226 228 230

GARFAGNANA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234

52. Rocchette . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

53. Sassorosso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

54. Trombacco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

55. Grotte della Scaffa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

56. I Campanili . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

57. Il Colle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

58. Ikea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

59. Collepanestra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

60. Cocciglia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

61. Penna di Lucchio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

62. Sasso dell’Inferno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

63. San Viano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

64. Rifugio Rossi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

236 254 260 268 272 276 278 280 286 290 294 296 304

PISA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308

65. Vecchiano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

66. Monte Serra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

67. Rocca della Verruca . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

68. REM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

310 326 338 344

CENTRAL TUSCANY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 352

69. Balzo di Peppone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

70. Monsumanno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

71. San Vivaldo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

72. Parete Malaparte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

73. Figline di Prato . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

74. Massanera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

354 358 374 378 382 386

AMIATA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 388

75. Catarcione . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390 76. Sasso di Dante . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396 77. Hollywood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 400

SOUTHERN TUSCANY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 404

78. Poggio al Montone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

79. Buca delle Fate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

80. Gavorrano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

81. Ansedonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

82. Canne D’Organo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

83. Capo D’uomo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

406 410 416 420 424 428

ELBA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 434

84. Il Ginepro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

85. Il Remaiolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

86. Baia dei Pirati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

87. Fetovaia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

88. Monte Schiappone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

89. Monte San Bartolomeo . . . . . . . . . . .

90. Monte Cotete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

91. Madonna del Monte . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

436 440 442 444 448 450 456 460

5

READING SCHEME beauty

ÙÙÙÙ

splendid

ÙÙÙÙ

worthy

ÙÙÙÙ

nice

ÙÙÙÙ

not exciting

equipment

ÙÙÙÙ

perfect

ÙÙÙÙ

good

ÙÙÙÙ

pay attention

ÙÙÙÙ

terrible

parking

comfort

ÙÙÙÙ

comfortable

ÙÙÙÙ

ÙÙÙÙ

Dangerous crag

6

ÙÙÙÙ

medium

ÙÙÙÙ

high

qrcode parking

ÙÙÙÙ

ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ

ÙÙÙÙ

low

ÙÙÙÙ

good

tie in

ÙÙÙÙ

very low

very good

uncomfortable

take care

number of visitors

sufficient

ÙÙÙÙ

difficult

qrcode base of wall

TECHNICAL CLOTHING

CLIMBING - MOUNTAINEERING - TREKKING - SKI

7

INTRODUCTION TO THE FIFTH EDITION Whatever way you choose to describe Tuscany we are talking about all round culture because this land is connected to names like Leonardo or Frescobaldi, to cities like Pisa or Florence, to towns like Monteriggioni or to wines such as Chianti. Every single stone that makes up the city walls and the fortified villages consists of its past history and culture. The sea and islands of its archipelago are little gems crowning a territory which is in itself fantastic. The gastronomic traditions in their simplicity represent these peculiarities.

What has climbing got to do with all of this?

The Apuan Alps, mountain chain with an interesting relief, have historically represented a very important playground for alpinism, but with the advent of sports climbing every boulder and every little rock face have become interesting areas for the practice of this discipline, and this guide book proves how Tuscany is covered in them.

Pleasant areas immersed in nature which is still wild or nearby cities such as Pisa or Florence, where each one of us can find gratification in our passion, be it rock faces with multi pitch routes or crags.

This guide is the umpteenth piece of work undertaken to try and supply the maximum amount of information to all those that are interested in getting to know the climbing potential of this region.

Wrongly we often hear from our “northern” friends that the distance from the Tuscan crags or rock faces does not justify the trip and that it is more convenient to go climbing in the Prealps or even the Alps. We personally believe that it would be a lot more interesting to make a specific choice, since here the difficulty and beauty of the rocks are second to none.

In compiling this guide book, a job which in appearance seems simple, we have definitely made some mistakes or disappointed someone for giving half a grade more or less on some route described, but if this has happened, it was done in good faith.

Some climbing sites of this region have not been described, not because we don’t know them or they weren’t worth mentioning, on the contrary, but for a quiet life with the inhabitants or private landowners, the community of climbers or above all with a few bolters who asked us not to divulge them.

Come and visit us. Come climbing in Tuscany!

Mauro and Fabrizio

INTERNATIONAL LAND-AIR RESCUE SIGNS FOR HELICOPTERS AND PLANES WE NEED HELP Land-air signs

Red flare or light

Yes

Land-air signs

No Red material / red flag Square shape 100x100cm.

Red central circle (60cm diameter).

White ring 15cm

8

WE DON’T NEED HELP

PROTECTION S1

Normal protection system such as on cliffs.

Average distance between bolts: 3,4 metres.

Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

R1

Easy to protect, always solid, safe and numerous protections. Few compulsory passages. Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

S2

Distant bolts and compulsory passages from one bolt to another. Potential length of fall: a maximum of 10 metres; fall without danger.

R2

Fairly easy to protect, always solid and safe protections, smaller in number. Compulsory passages between protections. Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

S3

Distant bolts, almost always compulsory passages. A distance of sometimes more than 5 metres between bolts. Long falls but not very dangerous.

R3

Difficult to protect, not always good protections, bolts rather distant from each other. Long compulsory passages. Potential length of fall until 7-8 metres, fall with possible injury.

S4

Very distant bolts (more than 7 metres), compulsory passages. A fall can potentially cause an injury.

R4

Difficult to protect, scarce and/or unreliable and/or distant protections which could allow just a small fall. Long compulsory passages. Potential length of fall until 15 metres with possibility of losing the anchors. Fall with a high possibility of injury.

S5

Bolts more than 10 metres apart, compulsory passages and parts where a fall can surely cause an injury (fall on terraces and ledges or directly to the ground).

R5

Difficult to protect, scarce, unreliable and/or distant protections, which could allow just a small fall. Long compulsory passages. Possibility of long falls that might lead to the ground with consequent serious injuries.

S6

Partially bolted but far from cruxes, long parts (more than 20 metres) from which a fall could be mortal.

R6

Not possible to protect but for short and insignificant passages far from cruxes. A fall could be mortal.

V

Very long route, big wall style, requires a bivvi on the wall. Difficult downclimb, difficult surrounding.

OVERALL FEATURES I

II

Short route just taking a few hours, near the road and with a comfortable approach track, nice surrounding and easy downclimb.

Multi-pitch route on a wall of more than 200 metres of length, easy approach track, rather long, easy downclimb.

III

Long route of more than 300 metres that will take all day long, difficult surrounding. Long approach track and rather slow downclimb.

IV

Very long route of more than 500 metres, on severe wall far away from the bottom of the valley.

It will take you all day long and the downclimb might be complicated, as you can‘t climb down the same route.

VI

VII

Big wall which requires more days on the walls, High Mountain surrounding, difficult downclimb.

All the features of the 6th grade, but exasperated, such as on big walls in the Himalayas, which need a real expedition.

9

09 Massa > Campareccia

CANTINA 16. RONDON 17. IL FABBRO 18. BELL’ARIETTA 19. LA CANTINA 20. LA PASSEGGIATA DELLO SCOIATTOLO 21. GET UP STAND UP 22. RESINELLA

7a+ 7a+ 6c+ 7b+ ?

7a 6c

15m 17m 17m 17m 25m 27m 30m

Proposed grade 7c+

CAMPARECCIA - CANTINA

6c+ 7a+

?

7a+

6c

7a

7b+

22 16

21

17 18 19 20

48

Campareccia, Andrea Gelfi, Se Magn I Fic

49

09 Massa > Campareccia

CASTANEDA 23. IL NAGUAL 24. IL TONAL 25. LA NINA 26. LA PINTA 27. LA SANTA MARIA 28. VECCHIO 29. NON È DA MENO 30. MOVIMENTO CINQUE STELLE 31. SE MAGN I FIC 32. LA COZZATA 33. DESAPARECIDOS 34. VECCHIO 6A

6a+ 6a+ 6b+ 6b+ 6b+ 6b 7a 7a+ 6b+ 6a+ 6a+ 6a

28m Chain in common with the route Tonal 28m Chain in common with the route Nagual 28m 28m 28m 28m * 28m 28m 28m 20m 20m 26m

FILÒ FILÒ 35. TETTO SU TETTO 7a 26m 36. FILÒ FILÒ 7a 26m * 37. WITHOUT NAME 7c 10m * 38. WITHOUT NAME 7a+ 10m * 39. WITHOUT NAME 6c+ 16m * 40. WITHOUT NAME 6a 26m * 41. WITHOUT NAME 6a+ 26m * 42. WITHOUT NAME 6a+ 26m * 43. WITHOUT NAME 5c 20m * * routes bolted by Claudio Filatiera, Luciano Vatteroni and Antonio Marchetti.

6a+

6a+

6a+

6b+ 6b+

7a 6b+

6a+

7a+

6b

7a

6a+

6b+

6a

6a

7a

50

24 25 26

35 27

28 29 30

31

32

33

34

6a+

39

7c

23

5c

6c+

36

37

7a+ 38

40 41

42

43

14

Alta Versilia

TORRE DI BELEN The last crag bolted by Stefano Nesti mountain guide from Garfagnana with the support of the association “I raggi di Belen”, which has nothing to do with the famous model, but with the Sun God, which gave light and heat to the population of Liguria and of this area.

Routes mainly run up marble like slabs which are also covered by interesting cracks and athletic moves on small edges. The route Afrodite must not be missed even if up the first few metres the rock sounds a bit empty. Recommended period: spring time and autumn except after recent rain fall, summer during late afternoon.

450m altitude

WEST orientation

ÙÙÙÙ beauty

ÙÙÙÙ equipment

BACK UP POINT: To stay overnight in town: Pania Forata Hostel (paniaforatahostel. it) while for excellent dinners and snacks go to Vasco at Poveromo (+39 0584-7777021)

ÙÙÙÙ number of visitors

ÙÙÙÙ

ACCESS From Versilia continue towards Seravezza and successively Stazzema. At the junction on the hair pin bend after Ponte Stazzemese turn left, sign posts for Pruno, pass by the towns of Cardoso, Volegno and once you reach the main square of Pruno park your car.

comfort

ÙÙÙÙ parking

20min

From the car park enter the town and along its narrow alley way turn left towards Mulino del Frate, see signs on the walls of the homes.

After having walked along the paved mule track, reach the last house and from here go down to the left through the woods until you are level with a characteristic Roman bridge. From here continue along the via di Lizza for 60m and continue along the path to the right. Reach an opening in the woods with ruins, probably drying room for chestnuts, go past it and follow trails which climb up the slope covered in woods on the left of the torrent till you are under the rock face. Along the trail you will find the start of the routes which are made easier by fixed ropes.

approach time

Yes - No

beginners school

Yes - No

possible when raining

TORRE DI BELEN Pruno Molino del Frate

16 2

2

2

4 4 1 1

< 4b 4c 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

70

source

stradina lastricata

Stazzema

Torre di Belen, Marzia Biagi, Apollo (Š David Peselli)â&#x20AC;&#x192;

71

20

Sant’Anna di Stazzema

IL GROTTO AND GROTTINO With its varied type of climbing and comfortable base, this sector is definitely among one of the best in the area of Rocca Petrosa. There are some pitches which are easier than average, making it ideal for heterogenous groups of climbers. Warm up on “Tramonti Rossi” 6b, on grey rock with edges and pockets, to then move on to the vertical and technical wall of “Malanga” 7a+/7b where it’s the fingers that count. If you prefer, the overhang “Ansioline” 7b+/7c which, with its bouldery move to exit the route, is definitely testing. If you climb on grade eight, you have a lot of choice: they consist of a third of the routes. . “La Questua” 8a+/8b if you like lunges, or if you have the passion of climbing crux moves “La rivincita dei Nani” 8a+/b. The horizontal roof of “Profili d’umore” 8a with its dance among stalactites is pure extasy, and you cannot miss the variety of “Mr.Camos” 8b which sets off more physically among the tufas, to then come out onto a vertical wall with small holds and a final surprise. Enjoy it knowing that the route is dedicated to Bruno Tassi “Camos” one of the founders of sports climbing in Italy.

550m altitude

SOUTH-WEST orientation

ÙÙÙÙ beauty

ÙÙÙÙ equipment

ÙÙÙÙ number of visitors

ÙÙÙÙ comfort

ÙÙÙÙ

ACCESS Exit at the Versilia toll of the A12 Genova-Livorno motorway. Follow signs for Pietrasanta and then follow the yellow signposts with black writing: ““Sant’Anna di Stazzema centro regionale della resistenza”.

After approximately 7km from the toll turn at a roundabout, always following the signposts, and start driving uphill overcoming the villages of Monteggiori and La Culla, and after roughly 17km you reach Sant’Anna. Once you reach the main square turn left and park your car. Follow the dirt road which passes under the museum, in front of the bar. In 10 minutes walking you reach a few homes. Continue along the road downhill, walk past a water fountain on the right and a house on the left and walk down to the hair pin bend on the left with a ruin in the middle, 20 minutes. At the hair pin bend leave the dirt road and turn right along the path towards Fornace-Cacciadiavoli-Valdicastello. After the initial descent climb up to the right and towards the junction for Cacciadiavoli-Valdicastello turn to the right and continue on flat to the rock faces. 20-25 minutes from the car park.

parking

25min

approach time

Yes - No

beginners school

Yes - No

possible when raining

Sant’Anna

Rocca petrosa

Museo della Resistenza

GROTTO

22 1

2 2

1

2

4

2

3 3

Castello 2

< 4b 4c 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

102

Grotto, Andrea Gelfi, Mr Camosc (© Georg Pollinger)

103

CAMAIORE Camaiore is without a doubt the centre of sports climbing in Tuscany; the site of Camaiore in fact offers a concentration of bolted crags which can be compared only to the “nearby” Finale Ligure and where together with the sea and the wall’s exposure, it is possible to climb all year round. Thanks to the tireless work of the components of the Associazione Magicandalla, of ProRock and the contribution of the local climbers and non, during the last few years Camaiore is becoming a true and proper climbing mecca, so much so that it attracts the attention of professional climbers from all over the world. In fact it is not difficult, while you climb in the beautiful overhanging crags of the valley, to bump into well known climbers who, attracted by the difficulties of certain lines, look to grab the first free ascent or the repetition of the routes. Spread around these marvelous woods there are plenty of crags with easier routes, which can be climbed even by beginners of this beautiful sport. In the guide book you will only find an update on the grades and corrections on the errors present in the previous edition, to get advice and information on the new sectors of the valley it is possible to ask the above mentioned associations once you reach the centre of Camaiore.

27. Muro del Tossico 28. Muro dei Ganzi 29. Isola 30. Tomeoni 31. Conchetta 32. Trittico 33. Grottino 34. Maruccio Area 35. Muro di Swann 36. Ciarro Torre 37. Saratoga 38. Candalla Bassa 39. Candalla Alta

Candalla (© Annalisa Benedetti)

126

40. Placche a Mare 41. Castagni 42. Cimitero 43. Mongololificio 44. Giardino degli Elfi 45. Cannelot 46. San Rocchino 47. Pensatoio 48. Primo Pilastro di Sestriana 49. Secondo Pilastro di Sestriana 50. Grotta all'Onda 51. Penna Pirsing

Monte Arsiccio

 737

127

30

1108 

Monte Gabberi

37

27 36

28

29

35 34 33 31 32

 951

46

Monte Gegoli

49

47

48

Foce di San Rocchino

45

Cascate di Candalla

888 

Monte di Croce

39 40

38

Foce di Grattaculo

51

41

42 43

50

44

27

Camaiore > Greppolungo

MURO DEL TOSSICO A small crag, with a shorter approach and beautiful rock with an excellent view over the entire valley of Camaiore. Technical routes of movement which are never too long starting off from 6a to 8a+. Not to be missed “La Ronda” 7b+ by Massimilano Merler with an initial boulder which leaves room for continuous climbing on edges. For easier difficulties we recommend “Empire of the sun” 6b by Lorenzo Abbarchi or “Latopina” 6a+ by Andrea Andreozzi. For the stronger climbers “La nina” short and intense routes with a nice lunge. Bolted

by Stefano Sandrelli, Massimiliano Merler, Lorenzo Abbarchi, Andrea and Luca Andreozzi, Andrea Gelfi and Edoardo Bendinelli.

350m altitude

SOUTH orientation

ÙÙÙÙ beauty

ÙÙÙÙ equipment

ACCESS Coming from the A12 motorway exit at Viareggio and follow signs for Camaiore. At the first roundabout take the third exit, and at the successive one take the first exit and go along the river for roughly 4 or 5 km until you reach the inhabited centre. From the centre of Camaiore follow signs for Greppolungo Casoli (driving along the via Nuova) until a hair pin bend where the road begins on the left (via Casone) which leads right under the town of Greppolungo where you park and continue on foot.

ÙÙÙÙ number of visitors

ÙÙÙÙ comfort

ÙÙÙÙ parking

10min

approach time

From here follow the paved road which climbs up leaving the belltower and the water fountain to the left. Once you reach the junction with the Madonna head to the right until a water fountain (including goldfish inside the tank) where the road ends. On the successive hair pin bend take the path which runs along the fence and gate of a house.

Climb up a dozen metres, and once you reach ruins continue to the right towards the crag (10 mins from the car park).

Yes - No

beginners school

Yes - No

possible when raining

Trittico Isola Saratoga

Tomeoni Muro dei Ganzi MURO DEL TOSSICO Greppolungo

Ciarro Torre

14 1

2 2

1

2 2

3

1

< 4b 4c 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

128

Camaiore

Muro di Swann Maruccioi Area Grottino Conchetta

Muro del Tossico, Sameuele Vale, La Ronda (© Simona Bacci)

129

27 Camaiore > Greppolungo > Muro del Tossico

1. WITHOUT NAME 5c 15m 2. LAVA-GINA 6a 15m 3. LATO-PINA 6b 15m 4. WITHOUT NAME 6a+ 15m 5. UNA FRASE MAI DETTA 7a+ 18m 6. EMPIRE OF THE SUN 6b 20m 7. MANCO CESARE 7a 25m 8. MANCO CESARE DESTRA 7b 20m 9. CLY-TO-RIDE 6c+ 25m 10. LA RONDA 7b+ 25m

11. NOVE+ 7c 20m 12. Z BOYS 7c 20m 13. UN PASSITO ADELANTE 8a+ 20m 14. LA NINA 7c+a 20m

Vertical slab on good holds Vertical slab with overhang Vertical wall with technical move Starting balancey and technical move Technical and fingery slab Technical slab with bouldery move to exit Crack with exit on slab A bouldery move at the start then continuous with final crux Nice technical route with a good lunge!

Move to start, then continuous Overhanging and fingery slab Slab then fingery overhang with lunge

Muro del Tossico, Sameuele Vale, Manco Cesare SX (© Simona Bacci)

130

MURO DEL TOSSICO

5c 6a 7a+ 6b

7c 6a+ 6c+

01

7b

7a 02

6b

03 04

7b 08

05

06

7c

7c+ 8a+

07 09

10

11

12 13

14

131

38

Camaiore > Valle del Lombriese

CANDALLA BASSA One of the historic sectors and the most extensive area of all the Camaiore area. Divided into various sectors there are almost 100 pitches present, with varied climbing styles on the typical limestone of this area. Short approach with a beautiful environment, a torrent nearby and a very comfortable base: it goes without saying that it is and it was one of the busiest crags. All this has a price to pay: on the easier and older routes and the quality of the route has been affected and the holds are quite polished. Furthermore the variable conditions of humidity are influenced by the presence of the torrent which remarkably changes how the holds feel, making it crucial to choose the right moment for a good attempt. The best period to climb here is spring summer and autumn, and the difficulties are varied: from 5c to 8a.

The crag is divided into various sectors and each one offers its own peculiarity.

200m altitude

NORTH-WEST orientation

ÙÙÙÙ beauty

ÙÙÙÙ equipment

ÙÙÙÙ number of visitors

ÙÙÙÙ comfort

ACCESS Coming from the A12 motorway exit at Viareggio and follow sign posts for Camaiore. At the first roundabout take the third exit, at the successive one take the first exit and drive along the river for roughly 4 or 5 km until you reach the town. From the centre of Camaiore follow signs for Vado, Lombrici, Casoli. Level with the restaurant Emilio and Bona go straight parking on the road which leads to the mill (Important: be very careful and observe the no parking signs so as to respect the people living here, you need to allow the bus to turn round to drive back down the road.)

From the mill (with drinking water) cross over the bridge and continue along the path towards the valley. After 10 minutes you can already see the large rock face of Candalla on the right. Walk down the path which leads to the river, cross it and climb up to the various sectors.

ÙÙÙÙ parking

10min

approach time

Yes - No

beginners school

Yes - No

possible when raining

CANDALLA BASSA

Casoli

Candalla alta Placche a mare Ristorante Emilio e Bona Camaiore

115

19

16 15 17 15 10 1 1

6 8

6 1

< 4b 4c 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

164

Metato

CandallaBassa, Andrea Gelfi, Mano D'Alieno (Š Georg Pollinger)

165

38 Camaiore > Valle del Lombriese > Candalla Bassa

SECTOR SINISTRO Short overhanging routes which are very athletic with a few bouldery moves. Recommended: “Estrema sinistra” 8a+ very technical and difficult bouldery move in traverse and “Il genio” 8b very physical on strong overhang.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

VIA DI MARUCCIO IL BRUCO MISTERIOSO ESTREMA SINISTRA HOLD BOY IL GENIO IL GEMONE IL DEMONE WITHOUT NAME WITHOUT NAME

6b

6b 7b+ 7c+ ?

8b 8b+ 8a+ ? ?

7b+

?

7c+

8b

15m 15m 15m 15m 15m 15m 15m 15m 15m

Fingery slab with boulder section Slab with difficult section half way Continuous, power endurance Continuous on crux to exit Continuous with difficult move on tufa

06

8b+

07

8a+

? ?

01

02 03

166

04

05

08 09

CandallaBassa, Andrea Gelfi, Alaigro Hombre (Š Georg Pollinger)

167

Camaiore, Candalla

Penitenziario Villette

CANDALLA BASSA

Sinistro

Cengia

Centrale Destro

176

CANDALLA ALTA

Pancione bianco

Bao

Placche a mare

177

46 Camaiore > Casoli alta > San Rocchino

SECTOR BASSO 1. LA FOLAGA CANUTA 2. NON È UNA VIA PER VECCHI 3. C’È CHI LE MOSCHE NON LE SENTE MA...

4. 44 GATTI 5. LA TENDA NEL BARRANCO 6. È BELLINA 7. COSE VARIE 8. PELLENC 9. DENTE DA LATTE 10. LECCATINE DI RESINA 11. SIPARIO SULL’ESTATE 12. ANGELICA 13. OPERA PRIMA 14. IL TRATTORE 15. ED ERA BELLA

L2

7c+ 8a

20m 25m

Physical overhang and technical slab Physical overhang and technical slab

8a+ 7b 7b 6b+ 6c 7b 7a ?

7c 7a+ 7b+ 7c+ 7b+ 7c+

25m 20m 20m 20m 20m 15m 20m 25m 25m 30m 35m 35m 30m 20m

Physical overhang and technical slab Start off with crux then endurance Technical with difficult final move Corner crack and endurance Continuous with physical move on good holds Crux difficult to read Technical slab requiring movement

Continuous on tufas and final slab Continuous on tufas Continuous on tufas Continuous on tufas

SECTOR ALTO 16. KILL GILL VOLUME I 7c 25m Continuous crack ideal for jamming 17. CIAO LEO 8a 25m Overhanging slab requiring endurance 18. PICCOLO PRINCIPE 8b 25m Overhang requiring endurance 19. SEMPRE APPESO 8a+ 30m 20. NON SI MUORE TUTTE LE MATTINE 8a+ 30m 21. VIVERE LA CITTÀ P1 7c+ 20m

P2 8a 10m 22. MEGABYTE 7c+ 30m Continuous with two physical crux moves 23. DEMENZA SENILE 8a+ 30m Physical and intense on overhang and slab 24. LA QUIETE 8b 30m Continuous on tufas exit with final crux 25. 127ORE 8b+ 35m Physical and endurance 26. BARDAMÙ 8c 35m 27. NO COMMENT P1 8a 20m Technical slab with single

P2 8b 15m Endurance 28. OBI ONE KENOBI 8b+ 35m Overhanging slab then movement and endurance 29. NATURALMENTE 9a+ 35m Without doubt to this day the most difficult

route in Tuscany 30. LA TERZA ETÀ 9a 35m LA GROTTA The tireless effort of who can be considered the official “landlord” of the crag Luca Lucchesi, is giving life to a new part of the crag with top level routes. Among these we find: “SIGNORI SI NASCE”, “MONDO DISONESTO”, “DEBOLI DENTRO”, “CREDERE NEI SOGNI 8b+”, L’IMPERIALE “8c” “P.E. LE MAITRE”, “BRICIOLE DI GLORIA 8b+”, “CHI LOTTA PUO’ ANCHE PERDERE MA CHI NON LOTTA HA GIA’ PERSO”, “SPRIZZETTINO 6c+”, “CRAC CRAC 6b”, “VITA SPERICOLATA 7a”, “PER SEMPRE 7c” and “L’ETA’ DELL’INNOCENZA 7c+”.

214

SAN ROCCHINO

7a+ 7c+

7c+

8a

7b+

?

8a+

7b

03 7b

6b+ 6c

01

7c+

7c

7b+

7a 7b 08

12

11 02 04

14

15

10

09

05 06

13

07

8b 8b+

9a+

9a

8c 26

8a

8a 7c+

8a+

29

8b+

8b

8a+ 7c+ 8a+

24 22

8a

7c

23

25

27 28

30

21

8b 20

17

18

19

16

215

68 Pisa > Rem

1. SFERA ESPERIENZIALE 6a+, 8m, R2, physical crack on strong overhang which goes from right to left, then slabs with edges and pockets, cam size from 0,3 to 2, tricam and wires, anchor in common with Muschio e Sangue, 2. MUSCHIO E SANGUE 6a, 8m, R2. Strongly overhanging corner, exit on the left of the ledge/jug and then vertical slab using edges and pockets, move slightly to the right at the anchor point, cam size from 0,3 to 2, tricam and wires.

3. GHISA DI QUALITĂ&#x20AC; 5c, 10m, R2. Discontinuous crack which continues to the left to then return to the right, cam sizes from 0,3 to 2, tricam and wires.

4. ISTINTO RIBELLE 5c, 10m roughly R2, discontinuous crack which continues to the left to then return to the right, size of cams from micro to 2, tricam and wires.

5. SOTTO LO STESSO CIELO 6a, 10m, R2. Slopers and horizontal cracks, then vertical micro crack, at the end of it climb up roughly a couple of metres and then traverse to the right until you join up again with the route Istinto Ribelle, anchor in common, cam sizes from micro to 2, Ball nuts, Tricam and wires.

6. LACRIME DI BOSCO 6a, 10m, R2. Climb up the slightly overhanging crack, then follow the slab continuing straight and finish by mantle shelf onto a terrace below the anchor point, size of cams from 0,5 to 3, micronut and medium tricam.

7. RIFIUTA DI SMETTERE 5c, 8m, R2. Slightly overhanging corner with crack only initially, then pockets, edges and final runout, cam sizes from micro to 0,75, tricam size n.3 for crux move.

8. MAGICO VENTO 5b, 10m, R1. Corner crack, useful a series of cams from 0,4 to 4, wires, medium large.

9. UCCIDE SĂ&#x2030; STESSO 5c, 10m, R2. Slightly leaning slab carved out by a crack which in sections narrows until it closes , climb the crack placing protection where possible, then runout on vertical slab to reach anchor point, cam sizes from micro to 0,75, a series of micronuts and medium sized wires, ball nut, tricam n. 2.

10. INCASTRANDO-SI 5a, 8m, Chimney not easy to protect, with wedged in boulder near the end, cam sizes from 0,3 to 1 and wires.

REM

6a

5c 6a

5b 5c 5a 10

348

06 07

08 09

5c

5c

03 05 04

6a 02

6a+ 01

REM, Filippo Arigoni, Fight Club (© Alino Serravalle)

349

83 Toscana meridionale > Capo D’uomo

17. SPIGOLO BONATTI Eraldo Meraldi, 09/2012 Total length: 240 m. (7P) Difficulty: 6a (5b obbl.)/S2/I Gear: two 60m half ropes or one 70m rope, 15 quickdraws, helmets and a few kevlar threads.

Access: once you reach the base of the crag of the single pitches continue downhill along tracks and following cairns to cross over towards the evident starting arête. Climb up the left hand arête of the crag along its line exposed to south east. The difficulties concentrate on the first two pitches but it is worth completing it to enjoy the ascent in a wonderful environment.

Descent: from the top on foot down the path which leads back to the crag or car 18. ARGENTO ARGENTARIO Eraldo Meraldi, Adrio Giusti, Benefico Tacconi, 06/2013 Total length: 110m (3P) Difficulty: 6a (5c obbl.l)/S1/I Gear: two 50m half ropes or even an 80m single rope, 15 quickdraws, helmet and a few kevlar threads.

Access: reach on foot some single pitches continue to go up following cairns to an evident cairn from where you climb up a steep scree which leads to the base of the slab and start of the route. 30 minutes from the car. The rock is featured by atmospheric agents which have carved out the rock and offers unforgettable climbing moments. The pillar of the third pitch definitely deserves attention.

Descent: continuing to climb along the last two pitches of the Spigolo Bonatti you approach the Torre and then on foot along the path which leads you back to the crag.

432

19. MARIA…MARE Adrio Giusti, Benefico Tacconi, Eraldo Meraldi, 04/06/2013 Total length: 55m (2P) Difficulty: 5c/S1/I Gear: 60m half ropes or one 70m rope, 15 quickdraws, helmet and a few kevlar threads.

Two nice pitches on featured slabs. After the first two pitches of Argento Argentario continue to the right.

Come out on the last pitches of Spigolo Bonatti.

55m 3a

3a

5c

30m

37m

32m 5b 25m

18

3c 35m 5c 17 28m 6a 17

6a

40m 5c 19

5b 35m

5a 35m 5c 18

433

Madonna del Monte, Matteo Fabbrini, L'alveare (Š Michela Fabbri)

462

463

Paolo Sartori

KS OO orts B E p

S ID GU utdoor G IN | O

R EEountain N I A NT g | M

U in MO Climb

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