Eastern SARDINIA Crags

Eastern SARDINIA

Crags

Baronia, Oliena, Gonone, Baunei, Jerzu, Ulassai, Quirra

First edition March 2024

ISBN 9788855471466

Copyright © 2024 VERSANTE SUD – Milano (I), via Rosso di San Secondo, 1. Ph. +39 02 7490163 www.versantesud.it

All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover image

Text

Claudia Giglio, King Canute, Bau Arena (Ulassai) © Richard Felderer

Richard Felderer

Drawings and topos Chiara Benedetto

English translation

Alexandra Ercolani

Maps Tommaso Bacciocchi. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map

Symbols

Layout

Tommaso Bacciocchi

Chiara Benedetto

Printing Press Grafica s.r.l. – Gravellona Toce (VB), Italy

ZERO miles

This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook. It’s locally produced!

It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote climbing in the area reviewed.

Climbers benefit from local authors: – locals know the latest news and updates – locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” spots – locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in equipping new crags

Local authors promote and respect their area: – they review only the spots where climbing is allowed – they pay attention in the same way to any different spot – they meaningfully interact with local actors

Note

Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

2% of the proceeds from this guidebook are re-invested in material for re-bolting routes and crags

RICHARD FELDERER

Eastern SARDINIA Crags

Baronia, Oliena, Gonone, Baunei, Jerzu, Ulassai, Quirra

Preface

Facts speak for themselves, I moved to Sardinia, and if I did so it was above all because it is a small climbing paradise.

And after a closer look it is not even that small! In fact Sardinia is a very complex region in geological, geographical and also climatic terms. It is possible to climb practically every day of the year, and discovering the places as much as possible there are a few “gap” days. Of course a little flexibility is necessary: like almost everywhere else, if you have a specific plan, things may not go as planned, the wrong wind blows, it is too hot for the seasons, it has rained and the crux hold is too wet… in a few words the usual excuses! But beyond all the bad choices on exposure relative to the time of year… welcome to heaven!

Every year the crags increase in number, the bolters don’t give each other a break and virgin rock is still quite abundant, especially in the areas of Ogliastra and Gonone.

The styles, the different rock, but even the different hands of each bolter mean that each area in fact offers an incredible amount of different routes, each one with its own character and rarely on rock that is not at least beautiful. Often very beautiful. Limestone reigns, but there are also crags of granite, tuff, and some basalt.

Many of the climbing areas are quite isolated and remote, far from the hustle and bustle typical of other equally famous climbing areas in northern Italy. But if you enjoy “convivial” climbing you will find crags suitable for your social needs too! And if you wish to get lost in the silence and perfumes of the Mediterranean bush all you have to do is walk a few extra minutes, perhaps even in a t-shirt during the Christmas holidays, finding yourself alone at a crag that looks like something out of a Van Gogh painting!

Richard Felderer

Beatriz Terradez Hurriaga, Eldorado (© Richard Felderer)

Eva Hammelmüller, Le lion de Panjshir, Millennium (© Richard Felderer)

The aim of this publication is simple: to promote and tell the story of an area describing most of its crags, praising their merits and if needed their faults with a double purpose: to encourage the choice of crags and routes through accurate, first hand descriptions on the style, the bolting, the type of rock and climbing style. Told from the point of view of an average climber and decent bolter such as myself. With the aim of supplying a valid vademecum for both local climbers approaching the world of climbing to the vertical tourist who is visitng this magnificent island.

A guide book is the tale of a land, in this case a vertical one. And in this tale it is the fruit of interpretation and therefore has subjective characteristics. It is inevitable. We have tried to be as neutral as possible and be as faithful to what has been said or described by the various bolters and climbers who have repeated the routes, but some things must be specified for intellectual honesty and for a more competent and correct interpretation of what has been written here.

The notes on the routes describe its main characteristics, its style and the type of climbing it offers and they never include any specific single crux or “tricks” so as not to provide valuable information that would spoil an on sight attempt. We will never say “undercling pockets hidden behind the third bolt”! Since the guidebook is also a useful reference tool for understanding the type and style of pitches, obviously some small clues are revealed, but in general it can be said that most of these clues will be easy to understand by simply reading the rock once you reach the site. It will be helpful for the reader more to help them understand the style of the crag when they choose to visit it for the first time! In terms of any judgement, these are obviously subjective, and should be taken as such, sincerely written by the author but obviously not universal, therefore we can say that when a route is described as “beautiful”, this is because the author and the people with whom he climbs on a daily basis generally liked that pitch a lot (or not at all!). But climbing is so subjective and judgements should be taken, exactly, as subjective judgements. In terms of the grades, obviously some people will not agree with some grades, sometimes even the author doesn’t agree. But the grade as such is also subjective, depending on various circumstances and judgements which are not always objective. In general the “classic” crags have quite solid grades, sometimes stiff, while in the more recent crags some generosity is found, which is innate in the process of adjustment in evaluating the routes. Or as can sometimes happen, grades are not homogenous at the same crag especially in the more recent ones. But there should be no finger pointing towards anyone. It simply is a matter of who climbs and bolts suggests a grade which is given using one method and then you discover that there was another easier method…nothing strange. Or else in the process of evaluating a new crag, the bolter who climbs pitch X when he/ she was physically more rested and the route seemed easier, then they climb on pitch Y at the end of the day when they are more tired.

It is the normal process of suggesting a grade, which is followed by time passing before the grade settles, just like a good wine, its true value is appreciated after some time. And in any case, to be honest, if a grade is clearly wrong, we know it deep down and this is part of the game, otherwise there would be nothing to chat about in the evening with a beer! As some crags have a stiffer grading system, others are more generous. In general there is no excess on either side, but for reasons of style, bolting or other environmental factors you can certainly find routes which if compared to others of the same grade offer very different difficulties. As is the case all over the world, I might add. Nothing dramatic: the 7b+ I have just climbed seems more like a 7a+, max 7b? Often the contrary happens, but this is another problem! I think that we will all survive! And with the circulation of clipsticks one always manages to reach the chain! In general we have maintained the grades of

FEEL THE FLOW

Dance with doubt, face fear, move within the moment. Be yourself, be a climber.

#feeltheflow wildcountry.com

common accord on the routes, except for some resounding case which disagreed too much with the crag’s comparable grades. In terms of the route’s length and above all the rope you intend bringing with you to climb in Sardinia, we recommend an 80 metres rope which is now the standard, even if with a 70 metre rope it is possible to climb more than 80% of the pitches. We strongly advise against 60 metre ropes or shorter, just as we consider it premature to bring a 100 metre rope, which only in very rare cases could be useful. Obviously I have not climbed all the routes in this guidebook myself, so for various notes I have asked for the opinion of friends and frequent goers. I also tried to correct any eventual blatantly obvious

Oriane Bertone, King Canute, Bau Arena (© Richard Felderer)

errors on grades by looking for and comparing various websites and database to better evaluate these opinions.

Finally, although it has undergone several checks by the author and local climbers, this guidebook is the first in this series and it won’t be without errors. For any criticism, the author is available for clarification or ready to revise what has been published. And the publisher is ready to update future reprinting with the necessary corrections. Therefore, in the unfortunate event that there is some error, we apologise in advance and make ourselves available for any corrections.

Geography, climate...

... and practical tips on how best to manage climbing trips and to best manage visiting crags Sardinia has an extremely varied physical geography, due to its very ancient and complex geological history, especially on the eastern side, where granite, limestone and dolomite rock alternate just to mention the rock that is of interest to climbers.

All you need to know, in a nutshell is that the Sardinian-Corsican block30 million years ago broke away from Provence and moved, rotating counter-clockwise to its current position. If sometimes we allow ourselves to mention Verdon, there is scientific reasoning behind this!

More specifically we do not want to go into detail, even because each rock formation has its own history and explanation. To give you an example, the lower part of Lanaitto sees limestone from the Lower Cretaceous period, while the upper part, should you ever climb multi pitch routes, is limestone from the upper Jurassic period. Which unfortunately changes its morphological characteristics even depending on the exposure and how the atmospheric agents have worked the rock over the course of history.

Or the Tacchi of southern Ogliastra, structures of rock leaning on a base of schist which gave us the gems Jerzu and Ulassai.

What is very important for the reader is that the quality of the rock resulting from all these processes is excellent. Few crags have beautiful rock, because for the most part they consist of excellent rock. But let us come to the critical points that interest us most: where do we go climbing and when?

But above all: what are the best choices if I come for a purely climbing holiday or if I have to facilitate my girlfriend’s/boyfriend’s beach needs, or worse my wife/husband’s and children’s needs (realpolitik).

Obviously I am addressing those who are not originally from the island, those who do not need to plan and make choices that may turn out to be wrong in climbing terms, but more importantly in terms of relationships!

Every time of year in Sardinia has its favourite destinations and its strong exceptions. I am writing these lines in January, and yesterday it was 24 degrees! Remarkable but not incredible. This is to say that it is possible to climb practically all year round, there are broad indications but it is important to be flexible!

So let’s begin with winter. And precisely from the Christmas holidays, the period during which the author discovered climbing Sardinia. Usually, I would say 9 years out of 10, the summer heat bubble lasts until this time of year, and an average temperature of 15 degrees during the day (by the sea) makes it possible to enjoy a nice day climbing even in the sun! And you start from the south, the Quirra area is one of the best during this period. As are all the crags in northern Ogliastra, offering a truly interesting variety of situations and styles. I would add that many are sheltered from the wind and therefore truly enjoyable even in less than perfect weather. Cengia Giradili for example is one of the most beautiful, warm and sheltered places on the island!

Obviously Cala Gonone offers a lot, and even on the worst days at Millenium or Alveare you can really enjoy yourselves: or at Poltrona. And if the situation is really complex, Fuili is a wild card which always works! Not to mention one of the most beautiful places in Sardinia: Lanaitto, which with its sunny crags definitely deserves a visit! I have not mentioned the Tacchi area because of its somewhat difficult conditions. Being more exposed to the mistral winds, they can be very cool if not too much so, but crags such as Bau Arena, Su Casteddu or the new Genobida should be taken into consideration. If you pick the right day it is amazing, climbing in a t-shirt and with impressive friction on these rocks where polished rock is unknown!

Largo dei Vespri, 6

Nicolosi (CT)

tel. 095 910173

m. 349 166 0782

servolare17@hotmail.it

El Bahira Campeggio

Contrada Salinella snc

San Vito lo Capo (TP)

www.servolare17.com

Geography, climate and practical tips on how best to manage climbing trips and to best manage visiting crags

I take it for granted that in winter you don’t come climbing believing in a compromise, you come to climb full stop! The view is pretty, but if you don’t climb you risk starting the procedures for divorce! Do not lie to your family members. If your fellow travellers do not climb, it is beautiful for hiking, probably the best period to do so. But everything else is closed, at night it is cold and the days are short. The sea is cold.

Mid-season the situation radically changes. Spring time offers beautiful colours and light, longer days, but the sea is still cold. While during autumn the weather is more variable but up to the beginning of December it is still possible to swim in the sea. If you want love to triumph keep treasure of this advice, and be honest with your partner. Back to climbing, mid-seasons usually see quite high temperatures, therefore it will be difficult to climb in the sun, in fact practically impossible! Therefore exclude all south facing walls and perhaps make rational choices over east and west facing crags splitting your day into two between sea (or sofa, or trekking) and rock. Also because if you aim to stay a long time you cannot climb 10 routes a day on perfect rock! Anything which lies in the shade is perfect. You will be happy everywhere. Obviously by the sea it will be a bit warmer, in the hinterland a bit cooler. But in these seasons you can vary quite happily.

Summer for crazy climbers is a necessary evil, conditions and friction are now put away until autumn. But never say never, there is a light at the end of the tunnel, even in Sardinia! In fact it is possible to climb all year round in the north facing crags: dei Tacchi, Baunei, Genna Croce and even Cala Fuili, and if you were lucky enough to find maestrale wind, you will wear your jackets to belay your climbing partner!

To say the truth this has not really happened in the last couple of years, but I think it is a statistical anomaly, not global warming peeping out all of a sudden! Anyway in previous years when you went to the canyon in August, you would always bring a jacket in your back pack! And at Genna Croce but also at Maccione you could even attempt some difficult routes!

Summarising, in addition to exposure, type of rock and type of partner, one of the most important factors to take into account when having fun in Sardinia is the wind! Both in terms of intensity and direction. The mistral wind or “north-westerly”, is the one that on the east coast (and I repeat, only on the east coast) brings the best friction conditions. It is a dry wind that loses moisture as it blows over the land. The opposite happens when the wind blows from sirocco or from the sea, when places such as Bidiriscottai or Millenium are covered with a coating of salt which makes it impossible to climb, and in general even in other sites near the sea conditions aren’t great! Clearly if you head to the other coast, the rules are reversed!

And if it rains? If it rains you are quite unlucky: Sardinia does not have a very rainy climate, especially Ogliastra! However, it is rare for it to rain intensely for more than a few hours. It happens, but rarely. On these days, there are not many sheltered areas: Quirra and Millenium in primis. Even Bidiriscottai offers pitches that remain always practically dry. And if it doesn’t rain too much, Red Chili, Dinopark and a few sectors of Ichnusa are places where you can manage to get some climbing done. And if you really can’t go without climbing, in Sardinia there is a handful of bouldering gyms:

• Sassari la Rockmadness

• Cagliari (Quartu) V10 Boulderzone

• Cagliari (Selargius) V10 il circolo

• Cagliari S’avanzada

• Iglesias V10 Iglesias

• Olbia Rockmadness Olbia

• Nuoro Ortoblock

Jan Kares, Il Sistema Solare (© Richard Felderer)

Travelling and logistics

Generally speaking for those coming from the ‘mainland’ I strongly suggest travelling with your own car or using the fly and drive formula. Especially off season the cost of rental cars can be insignificant (10 euros per day for a panda, Christmas 2023), and if you will be staying in an apartment you can send your gear out in advance so as not to pay the low cost airlines for the extra luggage. The local public transport system is decent, but not enough for the needs of climbers. Except for Ulassai, which offers a number of crags which lie close to town, the rest of Sardinia is too dispersive, and the bus stops are really far from 95% of the crags. For those coming by camper van or van, there are sev-

Marco Pellegrini, La Torre dei venti (© Richard Felderer)

eral campsites and equipped areas. During low season when these are not accessible, free camping is tolerated on most of the island, and since the excessive pressure of recent years has increased restrictions during the summer time we therefore recommend extreme discretion, politeness and ask to follow regulations.

The east coast is served by the national highway SS125, which basically serves as the connecting route for all the climbing sites. The southernmost and northernmost sites Quirra and Siniscola, are two and a half hours away by car, much more by public transport! Which are now very well integrated in the service of google maps, if you want to get an idea. Recently we are seeing the format “e-bike and climb” developing, an interesting and functional solution. A bit more challenging however if tackled with a normal bike. Everywhere there are all kinds of accommodation situations, and now almost all seasons. From b&b’s to renting rooms to apartments to hotels, we recommend making a conscious choice and to favour those facilities that really contribute to the development of climbing.

Bibliography

Baunei Sport Climbing 2021 – Maurizio Oviglia

www.lemonhouse.eu

Mezzogiorno di Pietra – Alessandro Gogna

Pietra di Luna – Maurizio Oviglia

Pietra di Luna Supramonte – Maurizio Oviglia

Ulassai Climbing guide

Ulassai Jerzu Osini – Maurizio Oviglia

www.climbingsardinia.com

www.climbingitaly.com

www.8a.nu

Facebook page ShardRock Climb Sardinia

www.climbook.com

Useful info

Public emergency assistance: 113.

Carabinieri emergency services: 112.

Fire brigade emergency services: 115.

First intervention Guardia di Finanza: 117.

Medical Emergency: 118.

Fire Brigade ntincendi: 1515.

Coast Guard: 1530.

Sea Rescue: 800-090090 (1530 will work)

Facebook page ShardRock Climb Sardinia

Facebook page Sardegna Clima APS

https://sardegna-clima.it

Thanks

First of all I would like to thank everyone who has helped to bolt and keep the routes in this paradise in order. I won’t write a list because it will be clear as you read these lines of this volume who needs to be thanked.

So I thank, all those who have contributed with their precious information, suggesting grades or even only small corrections to the edition of this volume. In particular, “Peppe” Frau, Klaas Willems, Matteo Cappa, Marco Manieri, Gianfranco Boi, Mauro Piroddi, Mario Ogliengo and Mario Orrù who dedicated their time and energy to correcting and refining this guide book.

Then all the friends who in some way collaborated by coming with me to check out the crags and

volunteering as ‘unpaid models’ including the ASD Ogliastra climbers, among these Matteo Standerini, Vincenzo Puccioni, Mauro Piroddi and Cristian Murgia. They are not professional climbers, on the contrary! But they were intstrumental in helping to photographically document the areas and especially giving their opinions on the routes! I obviously thank my better half Elena, who has supported me and put up with me especially early in the morning, while I was grunting away correcting drafts while drinking bad Nescaffé by the litre!

I obviously wish to thank all those who contributed even unintentionally with opinions or posing for a photo. This list is long, and I am sure that I will forgot someone…I hope I don’t forget too many: Alberto Dal Maso, Aleksandra Taistra, Alessandro Nuvoli, Beatriz Terradez Hurriaga, Chiara Benedetto, Chris Gore, Claudia Giglio, Claudio Mosca, Dimitri Satana Anghileri, Eugenio Pesci, Giacomo Prestifilippo, Il Pinza, Ivan Tanda, James Pearson, Luca Cubeddu, Luca Vallata, Marco Pellegrini, Maurizio Oviglia, Ogliastra Climbers asd, Paolo Stagnoli, Roberto Caboi, Roberto Capucciati, Ruben Beckers, Sergio Pinna and last but not least: Vincenzo Ferreli.

Elena Congia, Slavova Vez, Il Sistema Solare (© Richard Felderer)

Recommended behaviour at the crag

Never in my wildest dreams would I have imagined that I would have to write such a thing, but it is best to write it than leave it as intended and then encounter problems.

We will therefore spend a couple minutes to elaborate on a series of minor behaviours which will be useful in preserving a good relationship with sport and everything encompassing it: fauna, flora, people, social fabric and keeping areas clean.

Res publica per definition is “public matter” and that is for everyone. This means that it is important to be especially sensitive and remember that one’s own freedom ends where the freedom of others begins!

Therefore it is wise to apply the rules of good coexistence with nature, other climbers and with the social fabric of the area in which we are climbing in.

It goes without saying that the basic principles of good manners and common sense of decency should be respected, therefore we do not go to the toilet in areas of transit or under the crags. I don’t even have to say it (but I will nonetheless). In Sardinia it doesn’t rain much, and a dirty tissue left near the crag on top of your excrement, will sit there for months before it will decompose, not to mention wet wipes which take dozens of years, approximately 100.

Please do not throw this stuff around! I won’t even mention the damage to flora and fauna. The day we have to talk about it again to explain why we do not harm nature will be a sad day for mankind!

Returning to issues that have less impact on the ecosystem but only on the social system, let us avoid parking our van inappropriately, such as next to the entrance of a campsite or in places that are particularly in view or where locals and tourists will arrive.

Because the exponential growth of campers and vans is unfortunately beginning to cause problems of overcrowding even on the island, sometimes causing exaggerated reactions on the part of the administrations, often linked to the age-old problem of rubbish, which is becoming a sort of pandemic… “they come here, they don’t buy anything and then they just leave their rubbish here”. I have heard this 1000 times. It is none of our business to know if this is true or not, and making a list of other examples of stupidity does not lead us anywhere: it is what is often said in towns all over Italy, not just in Sardinia. Especially by the most conservative people. Or by those that see movement but fail to benefit from it. This should not be an excuse for not caring. They have exactly the same rights and duties that we have.

Like it or not, climbing owes a large part of its development to the fact that it brings tourism and helps the economy of small towns, as long as this leaves something to the territory in terms of economy. Be it a coffee, a bottle of wine or staying in a five star hotel it doesn’t matter. If the territory and its people see climbing as a phenomenon of ill-mannered nomads, where the only thing left is excrement on the side of the road and filling up rubbish bins…let us not be surprised if we are not lovingly accepted! There are funds, public and private which pay for the bolting and upkeep of the site, and I can assure you that these all have costs that some people seem not to be aware of. And so far perhaps I am not adding anything else to what was known by everyone! But ‘repetita iuvant’.

Moving on, we can also talk about parking at the crags. In many places we can say almost always, the access is not planned with climbing in mind, and that is, one parks in the opening or lay by near the area which will be bolted, without thinking that maybe 90 pitches will develop and from then on the area will be invaded by climbers, especially during holidays! Consequently causing problems in terms of parking! So, where we have described that the parking is difficult or problematic, please

Jim Pope, Incastraci tutto, Lucertole al sole (© Richard Felderer)

take this into consideration making the effort to walk an extra 5 minutes. I know this lowers your performance but it allows the area not to encounter problems with the local administration, and also avoids destroying the side of your car with terrible reversing thanks to the idiot who had to park near the crag at all costs without evaluating the consequences of not leaving enough space for manoeuvring!

This is not our own home, and in addition to climbers there might also be hikers, shepherds, farmers, and above all, emergency vehicles that must be able to get through without losing precious minutes! I am talking about ambulances and fire brigade whose priorities are surely more important that those of our easy parking. We must not be overly presumptious and think that only climbers exist, even if I know that when motivation is sky high one tends to forget that there is a world surrounding us!

I would like to make the reader aware of some points which are important for me when we have arrived at the crag. Let’s begin with brushing the holds after an attempt or sending a route! As I hope you all brush your teeth every morning, it would be a good idea to repeat the exercise and spend 30 seconds on this noble art. In Sardinia from Easter until the beginning of November it often does not rain, therefore some very popular crags get truly covered in chalk and sweaty hands. It is important to remember that after us someone else is going to climb. But it is like public toilets: “leave the toilet as you found it”, I am afraid it is a battle lost from the start, but I still try my best. Same thing goes for weeds and greenery. Especially along the easier pitches, or in the seasonal crags (since they face south or north), when the season is dead nice little plants such as rosemary grow in the holds and little cracks, irritating an already annoyed climber by the abundant chalk. When you abseil back down, develop the habit of tearing off the greenery which annoyed you on the holds, it will take you an extra 20 seconds but will make the person climbing after you happy. And if we all did this, with 20 seconds per day, per person, we would have perfectly clean crags. I am not exaggerating when I say to bring with you a little saw or some scissors. That would be exaggerating. Even if…

Even if good advice would be to bring with you a 17mm wrench for when a hanger is loose. It is not expensive it is not heavy, you will hardly use it. But the few times you will use it you will be happy you did. And you will give an invisible service, which maybe someone has done for you without you knowing it!

And to end on a high note, I would talk about taking over pitches. I consider it absolutely normal to have a project and spend many attempts over the day on it. This is what climbing is all about! I would also like it to become normal that, once my attempt is finished, another climber can try my route using my quickdraws which are already clipped in, the same way I can try their project too. Clearly the person who has placed the quickdraws first has the right to start first but this does not mean they have the exclusive use of that route! Let common sense prevail, perhaps brushing the holds every now and then which never hurts! And finally, I consider it inappropriate, especially during busy days, to leave ropes hanging for toprope climbing. Even here common sense should prevail. This happens when there are children or beginners. That is all very well. But on those days when three routes have been taken over, the climber who has placed the rope should be kind enough to say “as soon as I have finished my attempt, go ahead and use my rope”, whether they want to climb top rope or lead. This is known as common sense and advanced practice of coexistence!

Alberto Dal Maso, Jean De Joinville, Cengia Giradili (© Richard Felderer)

David Leduc, Still alive, Canyon (© Klaas Willems)

READING SCHEME

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This description takes into account a number of factors which include, besides the beauty of the rock and the pitches, the surrounding environment, how peaceful the area is and anything that can make a crag splendid, beautiful, deserving or not at all interesting This evaluation is personal and individual.

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The description takes into account the distance between each protection placed and their position in relation to the route.

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This indication refers to the average amount of people found at the crag during the recommended period and with ideal climatic conditions.

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General indication which evaluates how comfortable the terrain is where one stands to belay. In some crags, even if the majority of the bases below each pitch are comfortable, for some it might be necessary to tie in or balance on a small terrace.

This indication is useful when planning any transfers, especially in case there are many people with more than one car: if the car park is not big enough or difficult to find we recommend to use the least possible number of cars or to use public transport.

IN ALL CRAGS THERE IS THE CHANCE OF ROCK FALL. THE USE OF A HELMET IS ALWAYS RECOMMENDED BOTH FOR THOSE CLIMBING AND FOR THOSE BELAYING!

In crags where this danger is greater and more concrete, the indication YES highly recommends the use of a helmet. falling

type of rock approach time

This information is very useful when deciding which crag to choose depending on one’s personal taste. For many gneiss crags, the indications can be sometimes misleading since this kind of rock is also very different and usually the climbing can change a lot from crag to crag. This doesn’t happen for dolomite rock, limestone, granite or sandstone crags where the rock and type of climbing are always very similar.

The indications of how long an approach walk is on foot from the cark park, to the base of the crag or the first sector you reach, is calculated at an average walking speed considering even the weight of the gear (rope, back pack, quick draws, climbing shoes, water, clothes etc). The length of time can vary on the basis of the climatic conditions and terrain. For example in late autumn, some paths may be totally covered by leaves so as well as losing the tracks, walking becomes slower. Same thing happens in case of steep access during hot summer days under the beating sun. The indication is personal and variable depending on other factors which can affect the times of the approach walk.

This indication should not be confused with the presence or not of easier pitches but simply to make it clear if it is possible to reach the base of this crag with small children or if a constant control is needed on the part of the adults. Many crags are often not ideal for families or small children due to exposed ledges, difficult or dangerous approach walks, rock fall, or the presence of a busy road or other objective dangers.

BRINGING CHILDREN INTO A NATURAL ENVIRONMENT IS NONETHELESS RISKY. THE AUTHOR’S INDICATION ONLY TRIES TO HELP ADULTS FIND THE AREAS WITH MINOR OBJECTIVE RISKS. IT IS OBVIOUSLY UP TO THE PARENTS TO FINALLY ASSESS THE AREA AND CONSTANTLY ASSIST THE MINORS.

Is it difficult to find the car park? With a simple scan of this code through one of the many available apps it is possible to activate the navigator through your smartphone which will lead you directly to the car park. The coordinates refer to Google maps.

beginners school

This indication highlights the crags which have the ideal pitches for beginners or for anyone climbing for the “first time”. The bolts on these routes are usually very safe and placed nearby even if some exceptions might exist.

qrcode parking

fit for family

BARONIA

The northern part of the island is best known for its bouldering and for its granite walls, which offer a good number of multi pitch routes in trad style which were climbed by the author who with various friends in 2010 climbed and reviewed a series of trad pitches at Capo Testa, which will not be described in this edition since the protections used for abseiling need to be carefully reviewed. To the south of Gallura, in Baronia, there are a series of extremely interesting situations which are not at all busy, and they allow to discover a partially unexplored part of Sardinia and will definitely develop over the next few years. Limestone comes back to dominate and there are various small and medium sized structures which are very interesting. The crags we have chosen are not many but they all deserve a visit, they are well bolted and there will soon be others.

Matteo Staderini, Baya Min, Afghanistan (Sa Preta Istampata) (© Richard Felderer)

PARETINA PER LODÈ AND DEL TEMPO

180m

ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ

These rock faces definitely deserve a visit! At the start they were developed by various climbers among whom the very strong Giuseppe Garippa who bolted the powerful overhangs, and after a few years of standstill, and unfortunately the corrosion of some bolts along a few of the lines, it was picked up firstly by Wolfgang Zauriz, who improved the nice easy lines concentrating even on the Paretina del Tempo. Then recently (2019) the local Roberto Pau together with Marco Corda did an excellent job of restyling and adding lines to the small wall which today is beautiful and complete. You therefore end up having beautiful pitches of 5th grade and 6th grade routes on perfect rock (sometimes a bit aggressive) and from here on fifty or so routes which reach the grade of 8b, with an abundance of physical routes on strong overhangs with climbable grades, which is quite rare to find. They both lie in the sun from mid-morning onwards and they are obviously ideal during winter or mid-season. Be careful when the wind blows from the sea a number of routes especially the ones on the ochre coloured or black rock are affected becoming impossible to climb, while the ones on grey rock are almost not affected.

Limestone

1/10’

PARETINA

PARETINA

Siniscola

Olbia

Lodé SS 131 SP3

ROAD ACCESS

From Siniscola follow the SP3 for Lodè. As soon as you are on the road look for a narrow opening under the wire net where there is place for 2 or maximum 3 cars. Park and follow the uphill track for the Tempo rock face, or else continue for roughly 100m and park in the successive opening, from where the path for Paretina per Lodé sets off.

ACCESS ON FOOT

Follow the tracks, which in one minute lead to Tempo and in 10 mins leads to Paretina per Lodé.

Luca Cubeddu, Mordiroccia (© Richard Felderer)

40. SCIROCCO

6a+ 40m Verdon style slab, 5c up until the first anchor point

41. CIAO CIAO SARDEGNA 6a 40m 5c up until the first anchor point

42. MARIA 5c 30m Nice climbing on large holds

43. SA CHICCHERA 6a 30m Nice slab

44. 11 DE CAMPIDANNE 6a 30m Nice slab recently extended to

45. MAMMUTHONE 5b 30m Nice slab

46. TERRE BRUNE 6a+ 30m Slab

47. SIESTE EN MAI 6b 20m Nice and never simple

48. LAKANA 6b+ 20m Steep wall and technical

49. MAONAMOUR 6c 20m Intense crux

50. LUNA 5c 20m Easy wall

51. BELLA 5c 25m Wall with pockets

52. PHYLIU 6a 15m Wall with intense moves

53. BONSAI 5c 20m Grey wall

54. LEOPARD 6a+ 30m

55. MANDRAGOLA 6a 30m Technical wall

56. O2M 5c+ 30m Wall with moves

57. BUON DIVERTIMENTO 5b+ 30m Nice and easy

Gianfranco Boi, Sacramento (© Richard Felderer)

Cristian Murgia, Brod Oy (© Richard Felderer)

370m ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ

Alveare is a beautiful and fun crag which lies in front of the larger and more popular Arcadio, probably one of the reasons why it is not often visited. The predominant style is on abrasive rock and on large holds, offering athletic and a fun style of climbing, especially for those climbers who are used to climbing indoors and it favours powerful climbing to technical climbing. The bolting is almost always perfect, thanks to Gianluca Piras and then Mario Ogliengo, who bolted a dozen beautiful routes to complete the crag. Ideal during spring time and autumn and on winter afternoons.

ROAD ACCESS

Follow the cement road which from Cala Gonone leads to Cala Cartoe and at the first hair pin bend park your car in the opening just after the Arcadio crag.

ACCESS ON FOOT

From the hair pin bend follow the track which heads into the mediterranean bush and follow it for 10 minutes until you see the crag.

Eric Brusco, Finger (© Richard Felderer)

ALVEARE ARCADIO

Millennium

Cala Cartoe

CALA GONONE

via Cala Luna

Hotel Villa Gustui Maris

via dei Lecci

Cala Gonone’s view point

Jessica Pilz, Facciamo in due (© Richard Felderer)

NORTH

50m ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ ÙÙÙÙ

The Mutanda sector is developed after the Lucertole al Sole sector, even if it lies near its approach path. The reason why these overhangs were not bolted before was simply because they are so difficult! There are various routes yet to be freed, they are short, intense but very beautiful! It is definitely worth opening some projects here, since the approach walk is so short and the rock is so particular! A special gem, ideal for those climbers who enjoy unusual routes which are anything but simple and one of the most incredible 7a’s ever.

By Mariano Zurru and Giorgio Pusceddu.

ROAD ACCESS

Coming from south, along the SS 125 turn towards Santa Maria Navarrese, just before the town of Tancau turn left for Via Gennargentu, keep to the left and park on the edge of the dirt road.

ACCESS ON FOOT

Walk along a fence to the base of the uphill section (cairns), then walk up to the right and continue to the right (facing uphill) aiming towards the wall covered in cavities, where the Mutanda sector lies, up the steep path between boulders and plants.

10’ granite

LUCERTOLE AL SOLE MUTANDA

SS 125

TANCAU

SANTA MARIA NAVARRESE camp site Resort

Lotzorai Tortolì

Via Gennargentu

MUTANDA

LUCERTOLE AL SOLE

Cristian Murgia, La mutanda che visse due volte (© Richard Felderer)

Santa Maria Navarrese Tancau

Northern Ogliastra Mutanda

1. DI CHE COLORE È LA TUA MUTANDA 7a 12m Beautiful journey across cavities, with difficult crux at chain

2. MUTANDA VELOCE ? 12m Project

3. DI CHE COLORE È DIVENTATA LA ? 12m Project

TUA MUTANDA

4. PIT STOP – CAMBIO MUTANDA ? 10m Project

5. L’UOMO CHE SUSSURRAVA ALLE 7b+ 10m Sequence of difficult boulder moves MUTANDE

6. MUTANDA TRICOLORE ? 30m Project

7. IL LATO OSCURO DELLA MUTANDA ? 25m Project. It follows the first bolts of Mutanda Tricolore and with a difficult boulder move on overhang it moves towards the crack which needs to be protected.

8. VENTO DALLA MUTANDA ? 25m Project

9. L’UOMO SENZA MUTANDA, ? 20m Project

10. LA MUTANDA CHE VISSE DUE VOLTE 6c+ 12m lock-off low down!

11. IL MUTANDARO 6b+ 15m Fun and intense

12. MUTANDA ASCIUTTA 5c+ 12m Fun pitch on rock which is not great

13. LA PLACCA DI SOTTO 6a 25m Nice slab with athletic movements (not in diagram)

1. DIETRO LE QUINTE* 6b+ 15m Wall with difficult section, probably 6c

2. PICCOLI SOGNI* 7a 15m Fingery boulder

3. LA VIA DEL SENTIMENTO* 7a+ 15m Arête with obligatory bolting

4. LEGGENDE METROPOLITANE* 6a+ 15m Technical wall with good jugs

5. MERCANTI IN FIERA* 6b+ 15m Difficult start

6. ROSA PEDRA* 6c 20m Hold on tight at start

7. CRISTALLI LIQUIDI* 6c+ 25m Complicated slab

8. SU PASSU TORRAU* 6a+ 15m Beautiful corner crack

9. CI VUOLE UN FISICO BESTIALE* 7b+ 15m One of the most photographed pitches, technical

10. LA VIA DEL PENSIERO* 7b 15m Brutal technical wall

11. MISS OPOPDORO E SUCCO 7a+ 12m Strange overhanging crack

D’ORGASMO*

12. IL RIPOSO DEL VENTO* 7a 12m Boulder on pockets

13. A MUSO DURO* 6c+ 20m Difficult start on pockets

14. SIMONE LARVA* 6b+ 20m Start with possible layback on the boulder (recommended), dangerous if you fall if you climb frontally, then wall with pockets

15. IL MINOTAURO* 6b+ 20m Discontinuous route not recommended

Maurizio Oviglia, Nuova dimensione, 1992 (© Cecilia Marchi)

Elena Congia on top of Dillosauro (© Richard Felderer)

IL SALTO DI QUIRRA

This place is a small area in Sardinia which lies on the eastern coast, it lies north of Ogliastra and to the south of Sarrabus. But it is also the name of one of the most historical crags in Sardinia, known for offering some of the hardest pitches on the island at the turn of the millennium, many of which were freed by the Viennese climber Arthur Kubista.

Today the area of Quirra, thanks to the recent bolting, offers three crags: not a lot but during the winter months it is one of the warmest and most sheltered areas of the island, and spending a couple of days there (or in the case of difficult projects) can be a good plan!

79. Passaggio per Chitur .............

80. Cuba

Cayman

470

478

480

Quirra

Castello di Quirra

Spiaggia di Murtas Padru

Spiaggia di Murtas

Nuraghe Pirastu

Nuraghe sa Pudda

Nuraghe Guardia Manna

Mauro Piroddi, Conto aperto, Cayman (© Richard Felderer)

Luca Danieli

Ph. Christian Varrone