SALTY ROUTES
Climbing from the Ligurian hinterland to the French Riviera 77 CRAGS - Val Tanaro, Valle Argentina, Valle Roja, Menton and La Turbie
First edition April 2025
ISBN 978 88 55471 17 6
Copyright © 2025 VERSANTE SUD – Milano (I), via Rosso di San Secondo, Ph. +39 02 7490163 www.versantesud.it
All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.
Cover image
Elena Chiappa, L’appel du fossoyeur 7a, Big Ben - La Turbie (© K. Dell'Orto)
Text Alessandro Cariga
Drawings and topos Damiano Sessa
English translation Alexandra Ercolani
Maps Tommaso Bacciocchi © Mapbox, © Open Street Map
Symbols Tommaso Bacciocchi
Layout Francesco Rioda
Printing
Tipolitografia Pagani – Passirano (BS), Italy
ZERO miles
This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced
ZERO miles!
This is a “zero-miles” guidebook. It’s locally produced!
It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote climbing in the area reviewed.
Climbers benefit from local authors:
– locals know the latest news and updates – locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” spots
– locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in equipping new crags
Local authors promote and respect their area: – they review only the spots where climbing is allowed
– they pay attention in the same way to any different spot
– they meaningfully interact with local actors
Note
Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.
ZERO miles
2% of the proceeds from this guidebook are re-invested in material for re-bolting routes and crags
ALESSANDRO CARIGA – MATTEO GAMBARO
SALTY ROUTES
Climbing from the Ligurian hinterland to the French Riviera
VALLE ARGENTINA
62. Rocca di Corte 374
63. Rocce di Loreto 386
64. Realdo - Rocca Auta di Realdo 420
65. Placche di Borniga 424
66. Bric del Castellaccio 428
67. Monte Pietravecchia 430
VAL TANARO ....................... 439
Tanarello 442
68. Rocca delle Armasse 444
69. Pertuso Cornarea 448
70. Tanarello Classico 458
71. Tanarello Alto 462
72. Cantarana 470
73. Canyon di Ormea 478
74. Aimoni - Falesia del Bosco 484
75. Le Trou 486
76. Falesia dei Saraceni - Barchi 488
77. Pian Bernardo 490
PROTAGONISTS
Damien Tomasi 99
Orazio Pellegrino 310
Livio Viale 334
Flaviano Bessone 384
Marco Pukli 454
Val Tanaro Sport Climbing - G. Massari 468
Lorenzo Bogliacino, Rin Tin Tom 8c, Pianbernardo (© R.Benvenuti)
General Map
Preface
On a small patch of land beside the Cote d’Azur, limestone walls of exceptional quality are hidden away. This guide unveils the vertical secrets of western Liguria and that part of France which from the border crosses La Turbie and winds down through the valleys as far as the outskirts of Nice. This is where you find the crags which have written the history of climbing and hidden gems still far from the masses.
You will learn to move like a local between the coast and inland, taking advantage of seasons and exposures, exploring the dark side of Liguria: an area which over the years has seen many crags and routes of a certain level grow and finally come together in a complete and exhaustive manner, with particular attention to the best pitches.
This guide book was developed from the need to highlight an area of extraordinary potential, letting it shine in its own light and no longer as an appendix to volumes of adjoining areas. For some time now it has been felt that there was a need for a precise reference point for these areas, both to document historic crags with updated information as well as bringing to light secret pearls and significant changes in recent years.
In our opinion, these areas represent one of the most interesting vertical destinations in Europe, thanks to its favourable climate, breathtaking natural surroundings and a rock of extraordinary quality. Here you will find routes for beginners as well as rock structures for modern climbing, with difficult routes which will test even the most expert of climbers.
Enjoy your climbing everybody!
Alessandro and Matteo
Alessandro Cariga, Matteo Gambaro, Val Tanaro (© E. Chiappa) ↓
A historical perspective
BY MARCO PUKLI
Since the years before the Second World War, routes of a certain difficulty ran up “pure” rock on the walls behind Nice, such as La Malet on the Baou of Saint-Jeannet, opened in 1940 and which became a very popular classic route. Later in the post war period, several routes were opened, in alpine style, which seen today, may appear incredibly up to date; to give just one example, let us mention the route “L’oblique”, at Loubière from the 1960s, by the climbing partnership Ughetto-Ruggeri team. Often at that time the routes were already offering climbs of a “modern” character.
But a real shock came in the 1980s with Patrick Berhault. If we want to try the grasp the symbolic aspect contained in his free climbing ascent of the route “Le Toit d’Auguste” in 1986, we could say that that shock catapulted in the climbing world – in one leap and without intermediate steps - towards a new level of difficulty, unimaginable for most climbers at the time. They spoke of grade 9 on the French scale; today “Le Toit d’Auguste” is graded 8b+. The effects of these jolts spread to all the neighbouring walls, which saw the number of routes specially bolted to tackle such difficulties, grow disproportionately.
It should be noted that, at that time, most of the sectors described in this guidebook did not yet exist.
Already then, as far as rock climbing was concerned, the French were at the forefront, and it was from ‘their’ walls that the push towards that evolution and development of climbing began, which gradually spread across to the neighbouring areas, even to Italy. Thus, starting in the 1980s those now classic sectors were born that make south-eastern France the rocky paradise of climbers. New crags were discovered, with dozens and dozens of new routes, at Turbie, at Castillon, at Peillon, at Gorbio, at Brigue.
In Italy, in the areas described in this guidebook, a number of crags of local interest had existed since the 1980s, representing the only alternatives to the Finale area, which at the time was practically the only important place to practice sports climbing. The canyon of Ormea, in Val Tanaro and the crags of Lo-
reto, in Valle Argentina, date back to that period. The new millennium brought with it numerous innovations on both sides. In France, exceptional sectors such as Peillon, Alcatraz, Le Palais were developed; in Italy, La Rocca di Corte in Valle Argentina, the Tanarello crags in Val Tanaro and more recently the splendid sectors of Pianbernardo, with routes of high difficulty in a particularly beautiful alpine setting.
We could try to make a superficial and provisional chronology of the main climbing areas covered in this guidebook, by looking at the period in which the development began.
From the 60s to the 70s:
- Area of Turbie: trad style routes, but definitely at the forefront. Routes opened from the ground up, multi-pitch routes, bolted partially using “traditional” gear (pegs).
La Turbie (© K. Dell'Orto)
80s:
- La Turbie (La Loubière, Périphérique Ouest, Big Ben, La Paroi du Fort, etc.);
- La Brigue (Val Roja);
- Loreto and Borniga (Valle Argentina);
- Canyon di Ormea (Val Tanaro).
90s:
- Castillon (Pays Niçois);
- Corte (Valle Argentina);
- Gorbio (Pays niçois);
- Tanarello (Val Tanaro);
- Sospel (Valle Bevera).
From 2000:
- Peillon (Pays niçois);
- Palais (Pays niçois);
- Grottone di Tanarello (Val Tanaro).
From 2010 to this day:
- Alcatraz (Pays niçois);
- Pianbernardo (Val Tanaro);
- Olivetta (Valle Bevera);
- Sainte-Agnès (Pays niçois).
Today it would be very interesting to complete some research which allows to correctly and rationally combine the names and stories of those who contributed to the development of the climbing sectors. It would by all means be a huge job, which would require long, preliminary research, checking out the sources, etcetera. Currently this job has not yet been carried out. For the time being we rely on existing publications in an attempt to learn about the history and authors of these sectors. We cite some fundamental reading, which unfortunately is difficult to find at the moment: for the French part: the following publicationscan be considered the ‘bible’ of the climbers from Nice: L’escalade dans les Alpes-Maritimes V4; author: J.C. Raibaud -publisher: Alticoop Editions, 2017.
For the Italian side, Liguria area:Oltrefinale; author: Andrea Gallo – publisher: Idee Verticali, 2014. For the Piedmont area: Andonno e cuneese. Falesie e vie moderne; author: Severino Scassa – publisher: Versante Sud, 2012.
Beyond what we have been able to say so far from a cultural point of view, the reality of what has been done by bolters and climbers is written, so to speak, on the rock. In some ways, climbing routes tell their own story: by looking with a careful and critical eye, one can understand the period in which they were created, for example by observing the type of material used, the distance between anchor points, the free space between one route and the next, how the first pegs were used to avoid dangerously falling to the ground (an aspect, this one, which is fundamental and therefore at the basis
of the very concept of safety in sports climbing, but which even today has not been fully appreciated) and so on. But the fact that there is an implicit history written on the walls, as interesting as it may seem, is not enough; neither a list of routes, nor an endless world of perfectly bolted walls, is sufficient to orient oneself in the deeper, more complex aspects of climbing, which are more difficult to explain and understand.
Ever since the very beginning, climbing has never been just a simple sport, or, even less, a kind of pursuit of happiness; climbing has also been passion, suffering, uncertainty. It has been danger. Climbers have always looked for the balance between happiness and suffering. Without ever finding it evidently.
Perhaps it is precisely from here, from this never ending search that new routes, are still born every day: there will always be a restless climber looking for new emotions, new answers, caught between the torment of ‘having to climb’ and the freedom of ‘having climbed’.
The result of all this restlessness, as charming as fearsome, are the sectors presented in this guidebook. Like all climbing guidebooks, even this one contains very little of what can serve for a deep and truthful history of these places, but at the same time it gives an overview of what climbers have been able to do to date. It is a good start.
Matteo Gambaro, La Turbie (© K. Dell'Orto) ←
Daniele Macagno, Casterino (© Arch. E. Turnaturi) ↓
Geographical introduction
This guidebook explores a fascinating and not very well known area which lies on the border between Italy and France, an area where the contrast between sea and mountains creates a unique landscape and climate. The area stretches from the Col d’Èze to the west, crossing areas such as Peillon, Mentone, Ventimiglia , valle Roya and climbing up the Argentina and Tanaro valleys. Here the Maritime Alps plunge into the Mediterranean sea with steep slopes and imposing rock faces, while the climate benefits from the dual influence of sea and mountains: sea breezes mitigate winters and summers remain cooler than on the coast, making climbing possible in many seasons of the year. From the sea, on a clear day, the view ranges across from the cliffs of Cap d’Ail to peaks of over two thousand metres, such as Monte Pietravecchia (2.038m) and Monte Bego (2.872m), this latter one shrouded in mystery due to the thousands of prehistoric rock engravings scattered in the heart of the Mercantour Park. This protected area, which stretches between France and Italy, is a true paradise for nature lovers, with crystal clear Alpine lakes, wild forests and extraordinary biodiversity.,
The history of this area is just as fascinating: for centuries, ancient trade routes such as the Via del Sale connected the sea to the hinterland, allowing the passage of goods and cultures between Liguria, Piedmont and Provence. Even today, these historic routes intertwine with the modern Alta Via dei Monti Liguri and a dense network of dirt roads a labyrinth of connections linking isolated villages, remote valleys and spectacular crags. On the coast, the Balzi Rossi preserve evidence of human presence dating back more than 25,000 years while a little further on, the Hanbury Botanical Gardens, with their exotic species, offer a spectacle of colours and scents overlooking the sea, Unlike the more popular climbing areas of Nice, Albenga and Piedmont, this area offers a wilder and more authentic experience. Climbers exploring it will discover walls immersed in the Mediterranean bush, hidden canyons and views ranging from Alpine peaks to the deep blue sea. It is a corner of the world where geography, history and nature meet, creating the perfect environment for those who love adventure and discovery.
Monte Toraggio (© D.Tasselli)
in the main valleys. In the small historic centres in the hinterland it is possible to park without any problems, but it is always best to respect the local regulations and choose official car parks to avoid problems with residents.
There is a variety of offers in terms of accommodation: from hotels to B&Bs along the Riviera from mountain huts and campsites situated in the valleys in the hinterland. For those looking for a more immersive experience in nature, free camping is regulated in France and often tolerated if practiced with respect; in Italy, however, it is subject to stricter restrictions especially in natural parks. In terms of services for climbers there are several specialized climbing shops in the region, mainly in the larger towns such as Nice, Menton and Imperia. Many bars and mountain huts in popular areas also sell small emergency gear such as chalk or carabiners. For water, many crags have water fountains in the nearby villages, but in more isolated areas it is always better to bring an adequate supply, especially during summer time.
PROMOTION AND CONSERVATION
The main objective of this guide book is to give visibility to all the crags of the area without excluding anyone. Each rock face deserves to be discovered and frequented, not only for the beauty of the climbing and the environment, but also to protect the work of the bolters and guarantee continuous upkeep of the routes. To responsibly visit the climbing areas is fundamental to keep a good relationship with the local communities and to maintain access to the crags. We highly recommend you respect the climbing areas, avoiding shouting and leaving rubbish, thus contributing to keeping the beauty of these extraordinary areas.
Be it winter or summer time, be it technical slabs or physical overhangs, the extreme side of western Liguria and the south of France offer never ending possibilities for all sports climbing enthusiasts. All that remains is to prepare the climbing gear, set off to discover these rock faces and enjoy the pleasure of climbing in one of the most fascinating corners of the Mediterranean.
Loic Mergnat, Patathor 8b, Big Ben (© Arch. L. Mergnat)
Useful numbers in case of emergency
When practising sports climbing, safety comes first. In case of emergency, it is essential to know who to contact and supply precise information on your position. Please find below the principal numbers which are useful for calling rescue, environmental emergencies and reporting of fires in the area covered by this guide book.
GENERAL EMERGENCIES
- Single emergency number (Italy and France): 112 The 112 number is active in both countries and directs calls to the relevant service (mountain rescue, fire service, ambulance, police).
MOUNTAIN AND SPELEOLOGICAL RESCUE
- Italy – Soccorso Alpino e Speleologico: 118 (direct line)
- France – Secours en Montagne (PGHM): 112 (or 15 for medical emergencies)
For mountain rescue in France, PGHM (Peloton de Gendarmerie de Haute Montagne), is specialised in interventions on rock walls and dangerous areas.
FIRE SERVICE AND REPORTING FOREST FIRES
- Italy – Vigili del Fuoco:115
- Italy – Reporting forest fires: 1515 (Corpo Forestale)
- France – Pompiers: 18
- France – Reporting forest fires: 112 or app “Prevention Incendie”
During the summer, the French and Italian regions can issue temporary bans on entry to forest areas due to fire risk.
ENVIRONMENTAL AND WILD LIFE EMERGENCIES
Italy – Corpo Forestale and WWF for environmental reports: 1515
France – Office francais de la biodiversite (OFB): 05 49 88 99 99 (for reporting animals in difficulty or behaviour damaging to the environment)
OTHER USEFUL CONTACTS
- Coast Guards (Guardia Costiera) (Italy): 1530
- SAMU Ambulance (France): 15
- Police Italy: 113
- Gendarmerie France: 17
For greater safety, it is always advisable to have a detailed map of the area with you and a geolocalised app to supply precise coordinates to the rescuers in case of necesssity.
Gianni Cirulli, Baby Combat 7a+, Séchoir, Sainte-Agnès (© Arch. F. Bessone)
Climber’s basic rules at the crag
Follow marked paths, without crossing private land. Owners might get angry and prohibit access to the crags
Do not light fires at the base of cliffs, flames could spread and cause fires.at the base of cliffs, flames could spread and cause fires.
Do not leave rubbish, neither at the base of climbing areas nor along the trails. Respect nature, for yourselves and future generations.
Do not leave cigarette butts on the ground. A cigarette butt without a filter takes 6 to 12 months to degrade, as it is made of cellulose alone. Quite a different story when it comes to a filtered cigarette butt, which, alas, takes 5 to 12 years.
Avoid shouting, both out of respect for those intent on climbing, but above all out of respect for the fauna.
Also respect the flora, do not cut or break branches and plants unnecessarily. Respect wild animals, being aware that the environment does not belong to us. Respect streams and rivers! Do not throw anything into them.
Do not collect ‘souvenirs’. If something is there, there must be a reason!
Carry out your business in a civilised and controlled manner, certainly not on paths or under the crag. Do not use wet wipes, or if you do use them, pick them up and take them away. Toilet paper is preferred. A wet wipe, even an organic one, takes at least three years to biodegrade!
Park properly so that there is still room for others. There are not always many parking spaces at the crags and we should be less selfish and learn team spirit and respect for nature and others!
TECHNICAL DIFFICULTY
FR Free climbing grade followed by the obligatory grade and the possible aid climbing grade in brackets. Two examples available on the right.
UIAA Grade of the hardest section followed by the obligatory grade plus the aid climbing grade in brackets. Two examples available on the right.
7b (6a, A0 obl.) 6c+ (6b obl.)
VI (V+, A0 obl.) V+ (IV, A1 obl.)
Reading scheme
This description takes into account a number of factors which include, besides the beauty of the rock and the pitches, the surrounding environment, how peaceful the area is and anything that can make a crag splendid, beautiful, deserving or not at all interesting This evaluation is personal and individual.
The description takes into account the distance between each protection placed and their position in relation to the route.
This indication refers to the crowding found on average at a crag during the recommended period and with ideal climatic conditions.
General indication which evaluates how comfortable the terrain is where one stands to belay. In some crags, even if the majority of the bases below each pitch are comfortable, for some it might be necessary to tie in or balance on a small terrace.
This indication is useful when planning any transfers, especially in case there are many people with more than one car: if the car park is not big enough or difficult to find we recommend to use the least possible number of cars or to use public transport.
IN ALL CRAGS THERE IS THE CHANCE OF ROCK FALL. THE USE OF A HELMET IS ALWAYS RECOMMENDED BOTH FOR THOSE CLIMBING AND FOR THOSE BELAYING!
In crags where this danger is greater and more concrete, the indication YES highly recommends the use of a helmet. falling rocks
type of rock approach time
This information is very useful when deciding which crag to choose depending on one’s personal taste. For many gneiss crags, the indications can be sometimes misleading since this kind of rock is also very different and usually the climbing can change a lot from crag to crag. This doesn’t happen for dolomite rock, limestone, granite or sandstone crags where the rock and type of climbing are always very similar.
The indications of how long an approach walk is on foot from the cark park, to the base of the crag or the first sector you reach, is calculated at an average walking speed considering even the weight of the gear (rope, back pack, quick draws, climbing shoes, water, clothes etc). The length of time can vary on the basis of the climatic conditions and terrain. For example in late autumn, some paths may be totally covered by leaves so as well as losing the tracks, walking becomes slower. Same thing happens in case of steep access during hot summer days under the beating sun. The indication is personal and variable depending on other factors which can affect the times of the approach walk.
fit for family
This indication should not be confused with the presence or not of easier pitches but simply to make it clear if it is possible to reach the base of this crag with small children or if a constant control is needed on the part of the adults. Many crags are often not ideal for families or small children due to exposed ledges, difficult or dangerous approach walks, rock fall, or the presence of a busy road or other objective dangers. BRINGING CHILDREN INTO A NATURAL ENVIRONMENT IS NONETHELESS RISKY. THE AUTHOR’S INDICATION ONLY TRIES TO HELP ADULTS FIND THE AREAS WITH MINOR OBJECTIVE RISKS. IT IS OBVIOUSLY UP TO THE PARENTS TO MAKE THE FINAL ASSESMENT OF THE AREA.
Is it difficult to find the car park? With a simple scan of this code through one of the many available apps it is possible to activate the navigator through your smartphone which will lead you directly to the car park. The coordinates refer to Google maps.
beginners school
This indication highlights the crags which have the ideal pitches for beginners or for anyone climbing for the “first time”. The bolts on these routes are usually very safe and placed nearby even if some exceptions might exist.
qrcode parking
Matteo Gambaro, L’appel du fossoyeur 7a, Big Ben - La Turbie (© K. Dell'Orto)
MONACO
MONACO
Mont Gros 686
Cime de la Morgelle
1079
1148 Mont Agel
Cime de Baudon
1265
Le Palais
This trio of crags with a breath taking view over Monaco and over the sea can be reached continuing from one crag to another, using the path in common. They were developed during the first decade of the year two thousand by different bolters, all of them had great experience and were very careful in creating new quality lines.
In spite of being nearby the popular Grande Cornice, the panoramic road which leads to the village of Turbie, this area is hidden and isolated, in a wild environment, as if it was surrounded by a veil of separation by everything that surrounds it.
The climbing is superb, and it offers a large number of modern routes, athletic and of high difficulty, on excellent limestone and with many tufas and concretions.
ROAD ACCESS
Drive along the motorway towards France then exit at Monaco-Roquebrune. A few hundred metres after, at the first junction take the first exit towards Turbie D2564. Follow the state road for a few hundred metres until you see the cave of Marches du Palain on the right.
The car park lies below the sector, straight behind a bend on the right. Watch out: there is limited space which allows parking space only for two or three cars.
01. Les Marches du Palais
02. Petit Palais
03. Le Jardin du Palais
Loic Mergnat, Marches du Palais (© Arch. L. Mergnat)
Giacomo Fiorin, Come on Chris 7c (© Arch. L. Mergnat)
Matteo Gambaro, Super Patathor 8b+, Big Ben - La Turbie (© K. Dell'Orto)
32. WITHOUT NAME
7b+ 24m it sets off with Physical Graffiti and follows the connecting bolts on the right which crosses Pestilance reaching the anchor point of Neuf Doigts Pour Un Reve. Amazing physical connection on strong overhang, not to be missed.
33. PESTILANCE 7c+ 22m Historical route with roof and hook sections (without the screwed on hold it is 8a).
34. LE PATATHOR 8b 30m follows the left side of the cave with acrobatic moves on the roof, a must.
35. SUPER PATATHOR 8b+ 32m
36. NEUF DOIGTS POUR UN RÊVE 7b 18m the most photographed and classic route of Turbie, not to be missed.
37. NEUF DOIGTS ET DEMI 7c+ 28m from the previous anchor follow the vault the opposite way, onto Big Ben
38. 40Y 6b+ 18m
39. ENCORE BÊTEMENT 6b 18m athletic overhang covered with holds.
40. COLO EN COULISSE
P1 6c 18m slightly overhanging with vague tufa. P2 8a 28m probably among the area’s longest pitch across the roof, many hooks and jamming until you climb upside down. Striking in this environment.
41. SI TU VEGÈTES T’AS RIEN 5c 18m
42. BIG BEN P1 4c 15m from the anchor point with the rope on Neuf Doigts the popular pendulum of Big Ben starts here.
P2 7b+ 15m
P3 6c+ 15m
P4 6a 15m
43. BELLE FE GORE 6a+ 18m sheltered in case of rain but slightly polished.
44. BIO TAUPE 6a 18m like the previous
45. SUCRE CANDIDE 7a+ 20m
46. C’EST PAS DU RONRON 7c+ 32m
47. WITHOUT NAME 8a 32m
48. WITHOUT NAME 7c 35m
49. PATATE D’OR 8b+ 35m up the right side of the cave, exciting.
50. SUPER PATATE D’OR 8b+ 40m 8c without the glued hold.
51. THE SECOND END 8b 40m tufas and difficult section on pockets with difficult mantleshelf.
52. LUBRICITE DES FORMES 7a 25m one of the most interesting lines of this difficulty, it follows the evident systems of tufas with varied climbing requiring endurance. Not to be missed.
53. POMME CANELLE 7a+ 25m athletic start and difficult crux, ends in common with the previous route.
54. LUBRICITE TOTALE 6b 40m
55. ARABESQUE 7a 12m good pockets on strong overhang, recommended.
56. SUPER ARABESQUE 7a+ 28m it continues up the previous and requires endurance difficult to read.
57. CONNESSIONE 7b 30m starts from Arabesque and follows the bolts on the left which run up Pomme Canelle
58. HYPNOSE 7c 15m athletic with a severe section on pinches and edges to come out of the roof. Fun.
59. TARASS DE POULPE A LA MAYO 7b+ 40m it is possible to stop on the anchor point of Hypnose making the route into a 15m pitch where you have to climb the crux section which requires a bit more endurance.
60. L’APPEL DU FOSSOYEUR 7a 18m severe wall and takes a lot of effort, with sharp crimps. Recommended.
61. J’AI 16 ANS, J’AI LES REFLÈXES 7b 20m very difficult fingery and balancey wall, recommended.
Elena Chiappa, Calimero 7b, Big Ben - La Turbie (© K. Dell'Orto)
SECTOR GOUJON D’OR
1. ROQUEBURNE
2. BISOU BICEPS
3. L’OPPORTUNISTE
4. JULIEN BOUQUINE
7a 20m nice line requiring movement with pockets and edges, recommended.
7b+ 30m short overhang with powerful sections, the name speaks clearly!
7a 30m slight diagonal which goes partially around the roof, not easy to read.
7a+ 22m finger endurance.
5. BOULEDEUR 7b+ 25m fingery sections and requires movement.
6. GUANTANAMO
7. LE LOUP VOYEUR
8. TIENS BON LA BARRE
9. LES GRANDES THEORIES
7c+ 25m loose rock with central violent bouldery crux.
7a+ 30m
7a+ 30m
7b+ 35m endurance on overhang on often sloping DE MON COUSIN GERMAIN! holds. A lot nicer to climb than what it seems.
10. JACQUIE CHAN ET MICHEL 7b 35m
11. ENTRE LES LIGNES 7a 30m the best route of the sector on this grade, varied.
12. COVID-ORDURE 6b+ 25m
13. ZAG 6c 25m
GUANTANAMO SECTOR GOUJON D’OR
VAL ROYA
Olivetta
42. Microcosmo
43. Lo Specchio Magico
44. Eye in the sky
45. Face Nord - Biancaneve ........
46. Grotte dei nani
47. La Perla .....................
48. Sospel
49. La Bergerie
50. La Chapelle
51. Grande Face
52. Les Antennes - Col de Loubaïra
53. Bunker
54. L’École de Campagne
55. Chaberta
56. Les Balcons
57. PGR - La Grotte & Pilier Lulu
58. Les Mesches
59. Rocce dell’Agnellino
60. Arimonda
61. La Discoteca
1108
Pointe Calvièra
Mont Barbonnet
Cima del Gaisse
Cime de Vernasque
Cime de Tuor 2151
Mont Capelet Sup. 2637
2739 Mont Sainte-Marie 2755
Paracouerte
2872 Mont Bégo
2454 Cime Escandail
Cime de Gonella
1839
2027 Balcon de Marta 2122
GRANDE FACE
1. PENSÉES VERTICALES
100 metres further on, to the right:
2. LA MARCHIA DI RADESCHI
3. MASCARADE
4. SYMPONIE DE LA PLUIE
5. LONGTEMPS J’AI RÊVÉ
6b+ 22m isolated pitch on a buttress to the left of the main wall.
6c+/7a 22m wall requires movement and is fingery.
7b+ 18m after a hold breaking off at the crux, difficult boulder with tiny holds on amazing rock.
6b 30m nice endurance route not easy to read, among the most interesting of the sector on this difficulty.
6a+ 30m long varied and beautiful route, recommended.
6. WITHOUT NAME 7a 30m
7. ÉDITION SPECIALE 6c 30m aesthetic endurance line on edges, unmissable.
8. UNA COUPE DA SOGNO 7a 35m difficult wall below and more athletic on the final section of the prow with good holds, not to be missed.
9. GRAFFITI 6c 35m athletic on orange rock which is a bit loose.
10. C’ROC MONTAGNE 6c+ 35m endurance on edges, very long.
11. ARMANATH 6b+ 15m short and difficult on tiny holds.
12. OPERA 6c+ 30m aesthetic fingery line, a bit altered.
13. PROCESSUS 7a 22m selective bouldery crux at start.
14. MOULIN ROUGE 7b 25m traverse at start on bolts which intersects the nearby Escalator to finish off independently.
15. ESCALATOR 6b 25m
16. INITIATION DES DOIGTS 6c 22m grey fingery wall.
GRANDE FACE
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The only sector which is completely north facing, situated behind la Torre. Due to the rock which is not always perfect, it has not met with great success and it has been abandoned for a few deacades with its obsolete protection. The luxuriant vegetation has taken over part of the rock face, therefore be very patient and careful if you want to spend a day in this small crag sheltered from the sun.
2. GEE BUIE 6a+ 15m
3. ARMA FETALE 6a+ 10m
4. IL BUCO DI BACCO 6c 15m
5. IL COLOSSO DI ROBY 6c 15m
6. SANTA RABEL 6c 15m
7. H2O 6c+ 15m
8. TIRANDO CALCI AL VENTO 6b+ 10m
9. IL MICHÉ 6b 10m
Valle Argentina (© P. Ghiglione-M. Gobbo)
ROCCE DI LORETO ANTARTICA SECTOR
CENGIA DELL’OLIMPO
By continuing for 10 minutes along the trail which runs underneath the rock face you will reach a new crag since 2022/2023, with its base on a ledge which is quite steep and can be reached with some fixed ropes.
1. ZEUS P1 ? 35m
2. ERA P2 7b 20m
3. FESTO P3 ? 36m
4. POSEIDONE ? 20m
5. ATENA ? 18m
6. APOLLO ? 20m
7. ARTEMIDE 7b 16m
8. ARES ? 18m
9. AFRODITE ? 18m
10. ESTIA 7c 18m
11. ERMES ? 20m
12. DEMETRA ? 18m PIAN BERNARDO