Page 1

CARLOS SIMES

PORTUGAL Rock climbs on the western tip of Europe

Photography: RICARDO ALVES

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | CLIMBING


First edition. July 2017 ISBN 9788898609 772 Copyright © 2017 VERSANTE SUD S.r.l. Milano via Longhi, 10, tel. 027490163 www.versantesud.it All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers. Cover

Nuno Pinheiro, 2nd pitch of Cuba Livre, Espinhaço, Cabo-da-Roca

Text Carlos Simes portugal@versantesud.it Photos

Ricardo Alves

English translation

Carlos Simes

Illustrations

Chiara Benedetto

Symbols

Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout

Chiara Benedetto

Printing

Tipolitografia PAGANI (BS)

zero-miles this guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

zero-miles This is a “zero-miles” guidebook - it’s locally produced! it has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote climbing in the area reviewed. Climbers benefit from local authors: - locals know the latest news and updates - locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” spots - locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in equipping new crags (2%)

NOTE Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualifed individuals.


zero-miles

This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

Carlos Simes

PORTUGAL Rock climbs on the western tip of Europe

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD


Preface The guidebook that you are holding in your hands started as an idea back in November 2013 when, while traveling with my partner and carrying almost all of our belongings with us, we came to a crossroads. Literally about to leave the Catalan village of Pobla de Segur, where we had spent the two last months, after a journey of another eighteen climbing around Europe, it seemed a cycle was about to end. The options we contemplated at that point were: heading to Chamonix with the idea of spending a winter working whatever job and learning how to ski; or going back to Portugal for a prolonged period of time. The necessity of a familiar horizon was already calling, stopping me from any kind of fanaticism - I had been missing some background elements while climbing... The decision was made while following the Pallars Jussa’s gorges, winding down between the big rocky walls, heading South, in a direction where both possible roads could come to a confluence. Among opinions, imperatives and different individual motivations being part of a couple’s life, I knew I would need a challenge if going West. Similarly to other long-term Portuguese climbers and linked to what I had been able to live and enjoy during the previous two years, the necessity of a guidebook in Portugal was obvious to me. Topos setting out the existing sites, text representing the community, together with documenting our short but existing climbing history and culture. I knew that leading such work would be a long and demanding task not lacking obstacles on the way.

However, I imagined that the process and its result would be a source of knowledge, motivation and inspiration. Above all, I hope that this guidebook complies with these functions for climbers in the same way it did for myself. Once the initial work phase was over, the positive collaboration with Versante Sud started, followed by the interesting task of gathering and producing contents. Together with Ricardo “Macau” Alves, my bouldering partner and a recognised photographer on the national climbing scene, we began our race all over the country’s geography. We managed to climb, meet some route-openers and local climbers, record and sometimes explore the potential of some of the country’s areas for which - contrary to the South and Central regions where we normally climb - we had not contributed up to then. It was not easy to choose which areas we’d include or not. Some of them were already referenced and known among the Portuguese climbing tribe, others recently appeared and deserved their own title. To keep it concise and to avoid a list of the criteria used for this first edition, we focused on the geographical distribution on the territory, landscape interest and the surrounding cultural heritage, as well as the relevance of the climbing style in regard to the National and International context. The divergent perspectives were respected, keeping some sites out of the project, hoping that wider visions might be shared in the future. Carlos

Bruno Gaspar, Escusa

4


5


Index Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Roots of portuguese rockclimbing: chronology and historical facts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Geology and geomorphology of the Portuguese rock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

NORTH 01. Meadinha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 02. Santo Tirso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 03. Serra de Passos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 “Exploration Climbing” portuguese style . . . . . . 58 04. Serra da Estrela . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 Cântaro Magro, Covão Cimeiro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Covão d’Ametade Vigília Glaciar and Parede dos Fantasmas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Placa da Francelha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 Pedra do Urso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 05. Penha Garcia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 CENTRE 06. Serra do Sicó . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 Buracas do Casmilo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 Redinha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 Vale de Poios . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 07. Reguengo do Fetal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 08. Cabo Carvoeiro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 09. Montejunto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .182 Montejunto Velho . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 184 Montejunto Novo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 10. Sintra/Cascais . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 194 Casal Pianos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 Penedo da Amizade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 10. Sintra/Cascais - Boulder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Capuchos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 Peninha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Malveira . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244 Praia do Cavalo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254

6

Portuguese climate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Warning on climbing on crags close to the sea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Reading scheme. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Table of international grades conversion. . . . . . . 27 Evaluation of multi pitch routes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

10. Sintra/Cascais - Cabo da Roca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 Espinhaço . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Ponta Atlântica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 Farol da Guia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Baía do Mexilhoeiro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 Climbing in Lisbon and Surroundings . . . . . . . . . 302

SOUTH 11. Arrábida . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 Meio Mango . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 Azóia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Sesimbra Velha . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328 Dente do Leão . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 Fenda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 Meio Mango and Azóia Short notes on an extensive work by: “The blessed injured one” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 12. Escusa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 13. Rocha da Pena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368 14. Sagres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390 Tales of English legacy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394 Armação Nova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 398 Mirror . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 406 Foz dos Fornos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408 Corgas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 Parede das Riscas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416 Ponta Garcia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420 Fortaleza de Sagres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 424 Baleeira . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 436 Ingrina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444


1

3 2

Porto

4

5 6

7 12

8 9

10

Lisbon 11

13

14

Faro

7


Introduction Portugal is a very varied country when it comes to its landscape and consequently, climbing sites, but it is almost always associated to sea activities. The coastline of our rectangle also has a strong expression in climbing, standing out from the mountain and hill environments associated to most vertical destinations. This might even be the main element distinguishing portuguese climbing, granting it diversity and a character of its own. To start, the inland venues and their marked seasonalities contrast with the coastal areas that offer climatic conditions enabling year round climbing. Moreover, the crags offer options for all levels and there will always be a suitable wall for experienced and audacious climbers as well as beginners or, simple lovers of such natural settings. We expect this guidebook will contribute to helping the local economies through the visits of climbers to deserted areas, recognising the existing rock faces as a natural resource. It also promotes the discovery of a country that is not merely coastal - which it has been greatly limited to - but also its countryside and rurality. From the Portuguese climbing perspective, we’re longing that it helps on to pass on our heritage and history from one generation to the next, thus allowing the settlement and evolution of a singular culture, marking past realisations and stimulating both future practices and perspectives. At the time of publishing, some of the areas will still bear the condition of being non-regulated in regard to the legislation of protected areas (natural parks). With this guidebook, the aim is, through divulgation of these and promotion of good behaviour from practitioners, to permit an inclusion

8

through which climbing could be - as outdoor activity - a dynamic element in the frame of contemporary conservationism, where natural spaces are opened to the population and valued as such. This is an ideal and modern vision that contrasts with the old-fashioned way by which some institutions have been acting. As conscious nature lovers and users, we cannot allow a lack of dynamism and the remaining prohibitions. Thus, let’s wish that, similarly to what happened in the past in some areas, positive regulations are established for the outdoor sports - articulating the habitat conservation interest with the dimension of its human use. As for the topic of private property, there was always a positive initial contact with the landowners regarding all the locations here mentioned; facing a bad relationship is everyone’s responsibility. Hopefully, the likely increase of visitors will match the scrupulous users attitude we try to transmit here. From another, global point of view, it’s not by chance that most tourists who visit Portugal remember Portuguese people as welcoming and good hosts; climbing should not show exception, above all since it is a community with no frontiers where crags and hosting are interchanged. Climbing is also travelling. It is with great satisfaction and wishes of great climbs that this book is presented. We hope that, by the time of its publication, it appears already out-dated since it would mean new routes for the pleasure and evolution of all. The challenge is set for the discovery of North to South walls as well as the recognition of Portugal as also being a country of rock.


9


Acknowledgements To everyone who supported this project, whether directly participating with contents, or through transmiting enthusiasm and good vibes. First, to Hélène, my adventure partner, who always stood by me throughout the process and is the translator of the English version of this guidebook. To my lifetime dear friends, David Silva e Sousa for revising and giving suggestions to the text and André Fonseca for his introduction of the Physical Geography of Portugal. To my Scottish mate Robert Patchett for his great English proofreading. To the major and kind help in providing material and checking topos for some of the guidebook’s sections: João Animado, Sílvio Morgado, Nuno Santos,

10

Américo Santos, Hugo Marques, Marco Cunha, Ricardo Alves, Rui Rosado, Francisco Ataíde and David Rodrigues. For the same, as well as their writing contribution: Paulo Roxo, Filipe Costa e Silva, Nuno Pinheiro and Andy Reid. To Rogério Morais for his passion and interest in putting up the historical chronology of Portuguese climbing. To Pedro Pacheco, João Gaspar, Tomás Oom, Paulo Alves and Alexandre Luttenberg for sharing material from their personal archives. To Capecruiser for their kindness in taking me to the sea around Sagres. To all the people contributing for rockclimbing in Portugal to move forward and, to the few ones that were purposedly omitted, MUITO OBRIGADO.


Enjoy to surf in the crystal clear Atlantic water and to climb in the amazing nature of the Serra de SintrA

Lodge and learn at SaltyWay in Portugal

www.saltywaytravel.com


01

North > 41º58’25’’ N 8º13’23’’W

MEADINHA 850 m

The valley of Peneda is a magical and wonderful place where glacial landforms host a rich habitat with a predominant Atlantic influence, Mediterranean and continental touches and various altitude levels these elements mix up and result in a geography similar to the mountain areas of Northern latitudes. Meadinha is a dome (“meda”) that is well known on the Portuguese climbing scene for its good quality pitches. From 1970 onwards, the Galician climbers Ramón Melón, Santi Suarez and Pedro Bonifacio joined some Portuguese pioneers, but a change in paradigm occurred in the 80s. The Pacheco brothers coming from the winding and remote Southern roads on the one hand, and Miguel Lopez Domínguez, José Ramon “Pichu”, Quino or the Novas brothers from the North - this last group were already fed up with the climbing in Faro Budiño – took advantage of the introduction of rubbered rock shoes and started opening new routes on the numerous slabs in Meadinha as well as liberating some aid cracks. There

Altitude

SE

Aspect

ÙÙÙÙ Beauty

ÙÙÙ Equipment

160 - 100 m

Routes max-average height Granite wall climbing with friction slabs, knobs and cracks of varied sizes

Type of rock

Ù

Lamas de Mouro/ Castro Laboreiro/ Melgaço

Nr. of Visitors

ÙÙ Comfort

ÙÙ Parking

MEADINHA

10 min Approach

Yes - No For beginners

Yes - No

Sra. da Peneda

Can climb when raining

Yes - No For families

Yes - No Multipitch

10 4 4

2

II III IV V 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

30

Arcos de Valdevez

Peneda


was little activity in the 90s, but the magnetism of Meadinha burst through again in 2000 with a succession of openings of the remaining lines and the rebolting of many old ones by some of the above mentioned climbers. Trad ethics were also restored, by skipping bolts, which, unfortunately, had been placed unnecessarily next to some cracks where protection can be used. Aside from climbing, the trails that go through the bushy lower valley, the mixed-tree forest and the scenic crests are worthy of a visit, giving a sense of the wilderness of the place. Another possibility on rest days or in case of bad weather is to explore the touristic roads following the “minhotas” villages, to immerse oneself in the surrounding historic and cultural heritage (Roman roads, castles, tra-

Back up points Water ATM Fuel Supermarket

Fountains in the valley In the sanctuary Castro Laboreiro Nossa Sra. da Peneda and Castro Laboreiro

ditional architecture) and on the warmest days, to discover more of the Peneda-Gerês National Park in its corners and rivers. The best seasons to climb are Spring, Summer (at the end of the day when the sun is to the West) and Autumn. On this topo, you’ll find a selection of some of the routes that go through the main lines of weakness. For complete cover we recommended you refer to: meadinha.com. ACCESS From Porto: head northbound to Ponte de Lima and then join the IC28 passing near Ponte da Barca and Arcos de Valdevez. Follow the N202 towards Nossa Sra. da Peneda.

Cafe & restaurant Accommodation Bivouac

Nossa Sra. da Peneda Rural lodging available at Nossa Sra. da Peneda and Castro Laboreiro. Camping at Lamas de Mouro Boulders at the bottom and top of wall

31


01 North Meadinha 

6a

6a

6b+

6b+/A1

6c+ 6a+

6c+ 6b

6b

6b

6a+

6a+

IV+

IV+ 6a

V+

7a

6b+

6b 6a+

1 2

6a

6a

V+ V+

V+

6a

V+

V+

6b+

2

7a

6a+

6b+/A1 (7b) 6b+/A1 (7b) 6b/A2

6b/A2 6c/A2

6c/A2 6b

6b

7a/A2 6b

7a/A2 6b+

6b+

A2/6a+ 6c (7a) A2/6a+ (7a) 6

6c

V+

V+

6b

6a+ 6 5 4

3

34

7


6b+

6a

V+ 9

8

6a+ 6b

+/A1

V+

V 6a+

6a

6b/A1 6b 6a+

6a 6c/A2 (7b)

6b

6c+ 7a+

6a

6a 6b+

6a

6c 6a 6b 6a+

6a+

10 9

7

8

35


02

North > 41º19’29’’N 8º26’48’’W

SANTO TIRSO Hidden deep in the thick forest of Nossa Senhora da Assunção, Santo Tirso’s granite boulders have been for some time now a crossing point for northern climbers. Central and accessible from Oporto, Braga or Guimarães, the activity of bouldering here began with the local pioneers the Pacheco and Ruas brothers as well as, later on, the leaders of difficulty and exploration such as Sérgio Martins, José Abreu and Júlio Braga. The climbing is both varied and of quality, offering all sorts of bouldering routes with a predominance of friction or balance slabs, explosive moves on crimps and sloping top outs. Some of the oldest boulders have some chipped and/or sika holds but these routes have been sent without using them; the style of first ascents has evolved positively towards natural lines.

40

Here we publish the most accessible sector – among others that we also recommend to discover. It is possible to climb all year round and to practice some rope climbing in the surroundings (12 routes between IV and 7a+ grades are located in Patuda sector next to the Monastery’s South wall). Altitude: 400m. ACCESS From A3: head out to Santo Tirso and then head towards Monte Córdova, after this go towards Nossa Senhora da Assunção until the monastery. From here, walk down the dirt road with the signs to Sala de visitas.


SANTO TIRSO

Santo Tirso N319 MonsteiroNossa Senhora

Back up points Water ATM Fuel Supermarket

Fountains in the forest Santo Tirso Santo Tirso Santo Tirso

Cafe & restaurant Accommodation Bivouac

Nossa Senhora da Assunção Santo Tirso Allowed anywhere in the forest

41


02 North  Santo Tirso 

42. Coxa o koelhão 43. Lusco fusco 44. Bareja verde 45. Rolinha 46. Coquilha 47. Super bota 48. Efeitos sonoros

49. Enxotó cão 50. Devorador de lanches mistos 51. Aquecimento 52. Crack 53. Chamó gato 54. Passeio aplatológico 55. Costas à mesa

(ss) ? (ss) V7 V3 V1 V4 V0 (ss) V5

(ss) V2 (ss) V4 (trav.) V0 (ss) V0 (ss) V1 (ss) V6 (ss) V2

SANTO TIRSO 47 6

5 1

48 49 50

3

51 52 53

36

35

4

33

16 30

11

40 41 46

10

9

22

20

17

18

32

34 12 13 14 15

8

42

54 55

7

37

31

38 2

39 19 23

24

27

26

45 44

43

21

25 28

29

Ricardo Alves, Blair witch project

44


45


04 North  Serra da Estrela - Cântaro Magro / Covão Cimeiro 

PAREDE DO INFERNO (A)

1. Motor de arranque 2. Homo entaladus 3. Terror em Nova York 4. Crraack master! 5. Desequilíbrio perfeito 6. Desportex total 7. Visionário

6b+ (15m / R1/I) 6a (20m / R1/I) 7b – 6b (50m / RS1/I) 7a – 6b (50m / RS1/I) A0/6b+ - 7b – 6c (60m / RS1/I) V – 6c (50m / S2/I) 6c - 6a – 7b+ (100m / S2/I)

PAREDE DO INFERNO (A) 6c

6b 6b

7b 6a

V

6a

8 9

7a

6b+ 1

7b+

6c

A0/6b+

7b

2 3

6 4

5

6c 7

PAREDE DO INFERNO (B) 8. Civismo zero 9. O crime do palaçoulo

6a/A1 – 6a+ (60m / RS1/I) V+/A1 – 6c+ (60m / RS1/I)

PLACA VERDE 1. Via das Andorinhas 2. Verde esperança 3. Quarto crescente

6a – 6c+ (50m / RS1/I) V+ - 6a+ (50m / RS1/I) 7c (35m / RS1/I) Shaktis Ausentes

72


73


06 Centre  Serra do Sicó - Buracas do Casmilo 

MANUEL CARPINTEIRO

1. ? 2. ? 3. Guti 4. Los Rabitoles 5. 6.35 6. Picoto é Boi 7. Manuel Carpinteiro

Proj. 6a 6a 7b 7c 7c 7b MANUEL CARPINTEIRO

7b

? 6a

7b

7c 7c 6a 4 5

1

6

3 2

CORDA BAMBA

1. Ninho de Cuco 2. Corda bamba 3. Trolhas alpinistas 4. Unhas e dentes 5. Em sarilho mor 6. Pica Pau

7a 7c 7b+ 6c 6a 6c Ricardo Neves, Cornélia

116

7


117


212


213


10

Centre > 38º46’19’’N 9º29’11’’W

SINTRA / CASCAIS - ESPINHAÇO 0m

Altitude

South Aspect

ÙÙÙÙ Beauty

Ù

Warning on climbing in crags close to the sea!!!

Equipment

120 - 80 m

Routes max-average height Yellow granite with cracks, crimps and other rounded shaped holds; vertical and overhanging

Type of rock

Ù

Nr. of Visitors

Ù

Comfort

ÙÙ Parking

10 min Approach

Yes - No For beginners

Yes - No

Can climb when raining

Yes - No For families

Yes - No Multipitch

4

5

38

7 6

6 3 3 3

1

II III IV V 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

260


Back up points Water ATM Fuel Supermarket Cafe & restaurant

Fountain in Azóia Malveira or Almoçageme Cascais or Colares Malveira or Almoçageme Café Ocidente (Azóia) – Refugio da Roca (Azóia)

Accommodation Bivouac

Campsite in Guincho - Hostels in Sintra Allowed

Nuno Pinheiro, Esta via não é para velhos

261


7

V

8 5

9

III

III

6b+

6a/A16b+

V+ V 7b V+ V 6c Q 6a+ R 6a+ 7b+ S O

V

11

10

P

V+

V+

3 1

6a/A1 V

4

III

6b

6b

III

III 8a+

? 4

6b+

A2+ G

7b+ 7c

7b+ III

?

? 6b

2

? 7c B

6b+

?1

?

7a+ 7a+ 8a+7a+ 7a+ V/A1 7c 3

6b

6b

7b

6b

7

7c

V/A1

V 6c+

7a

6a 6b 6b 6b

A2

F

6b

6b

6a 6b

V

H

A2+

V

V

6b

IV 6b

7b 6b+/A0

9

7a V

6b+/A0

A

6c

5

?

6c

7a 6b

7a ? 6c

1

?

6c+

2

?

V+

C

6b 6a+

6c 6b

6c+

V+V+

6b+

8

V+

4

6 7 3

264

6 6b

6b+


7b

V

R

7b+

6c S

?

T

6a

14

IV 6b

c

17

A4

I

7c+

15

7b

M

L

6b

J

6b

13

6a+

7a+

? N

6a+ A3(7c)

7a+ 15

7a+

7b

7a

A2

6c+

14

6c+

8?

6b+

V

V 6c+

6b V

6a+

6b+

10

6a+

10

17 U

6a

6a+

E

A3 6c/A3(7a+) 7a

6b

6a

16

15

7c/A0

13

6b+

14

D

12 10

8

11

9

265


10 Centre  Sintra / Cascais - Cabo-da-Roca - Espinhaço  268

There’s a clean variant open on a crack to the right. P2: A3 (7c - N. Pinheiro 2/2010) – The dike on the vertical until getting into the flared cracks. Rps, micro-friends (repeat the blue alien or equivalent), camalots up to 0.75. P3: A4 – Strong overhang to be taken on its most difficult part; flared cracks. Very dangerous pitch because of the ramp at the bottom.

16. Miradouro P. Alves, J. Matos, Nuno Pardal (3/1986) FFA: F. Ataíde (1997) 70m / 6a+/A1(7b) / RS2/I Gear: 1 set of friends up to number 3: 1 set of micro-friends; 1 set of nuts. P1: 6a+ - Starts on a big roofed dihedral and then go right for a while. Face climbing to the belay. P2: 6a+/A1 (7b) – Overhanging face, bolt ladder and difficult moves to the vertical; nice crimpy free climbing. Traverses left on sandy and crumbly rock. P3:6a – Top out on a thin dihedral crack.


17. Le Vagabound P. Roxo, F. Ataíde (2002) 60m / 6c/A0(7a+) / RS2/I Gear: 1 set of friends; 1 set of micro-friends; 1 set of nuts. P1: 6b – Starts on a diagonal, difficult crack to the left, then hard moves through unstable bulges towards a left trending traverse that goes to the easier to climb section of the roof. On the vertical across the dike, up to the belay at the bottom of the strong overhang. P2: A0/6c (7a+) - Difficult rightwards traverse and

then on the vertical through an uncomfortable nest. Way out on an overhanging dihedral.

Nuno Pinheiro, Cavalgar o Tigre

269


10 Centre  Sintra / Cascais - Cabo-da-Roca - Ponta Atlântica 

PAREDE DAS TORMENTAS 2. Cabo das Tormentas J. Dinis, Francisco Sancho (6/1998) 60m / A1+(7a) / RS1/I Gear: 1 set of friends; 1 set of nuts. P1: 6a – As for Trono do Diabo. P2: A1+ (6c+) - Obvious crack that goes to the overhang. P3: A1 (7a) – Leftwards traverse until reaching a crack in between blocks (slightly overhanging); then to the right up to a wide crack that leads to the belay. 2nd and 3rd belays are bolted.

1. Trono do Diabo P. Roxo, João Dinis (10/1998) 60m / 6b / RS1/I Gear: 1 set of friends; 1 set of nuts. P1: 6a – Climb over bulges until the belay (not bolted). P2: 6a – Follows the arched dihedral under the overhang to its left. P3: 6b – Through an obvious and standing block (throne) and a semi-dihedral afterwards; short traverse to the right and top out on a vertical crack.

PAREDE DAS TORMENTAS

7a+

7a Garganta Seca

V+ 6a

6b

4a

7b

1

4

6b

III

6

3 5

2

6c+

6a 6a+ 7

4

6a+ 6a 3

1 4

7a 2

5 7

Filipe C.Silva, Parede das Tormentas

276


277


11 South  Arrábida - Fenda 

PIRATAS

6b 6a+

6b 6a+

7a+

7c+

7a

7b

7b

6 7

5

4

6c+

7c 6c+

10 3

6b

7a

V+

50 m

6b+

6b

8 9

11 12 13

14 15 16

17

2

1

CÚ DE JUDAS

1. Jardim da Celeste 2. Moby Dick 3. Janela p’ro mar 4. Quinto pirata 5. Terror na Autovia 6. Brutus 7. Martelada imaculada

8. Já enganei mais um 9. Chapa 3 10. Aldeia dos macacos 11. B-a-ba 12. 13. Tira teimas

V 6b V III+ 6b 6c 7c

7b 7b+ 7a 6c Proj. 8a

CÚ DE JUDAS

6b

V

III+

15 m

V+ 1

344

2

3

7a

6b 6c

4 5

6

8a

7c 7b

7b+

30 m

6c 10

7

8

9

11

8? 12

13


g n i n n u R l i a r g n i b m i l C g n i r e e n i a t n u o M g n i Hik g n i e o n a e C i r o s s e c c a l e g v n a i h Tr s i F k a y a K Trail Running Ð Climbing Mountaineering Ð Hiking Canoeing Ð Travel Accessories

Situated in Poço do Bispo, in Lisbon, our store YUPIK can offer all that you need for Trail Running, Climbing, Mountaineering, Hiking, Canoeing and Travel accessories! Here you will find a space focused on the quality of products and service. The best prices with expert care! “YUPIK” means “genuine people” and it is the name of an indigenous people from Alaska from where we’ve got our inspiration. Come visit us! Get inspired and discover your inner self. Tlm: +351 912 590 917 – Tel: +351 217 276 339 – email: info@yupik.com.pt Antigo Edifício Abel Pereira da Fonseca Avenida Infante D. Henrique, Armazém Nº 1 1950-406 Poço do Bispo, Lisboa

Outdoor Shop

how to get here

yupik.com.pt /yupikdesportoaventura

345


14 South  Sagres - Armação Nova 

PAREDE PEQUENA (D)

PAREDE PEQUENA (C) 17. Teoria das cordas 18. Chispe de porco 19. Jaja Bin 20. BBB 21. BMB

6c 7b/+ 6b+ 6b+ 6c

22. Una más 23. Despenteado mental 24. Vai onde te leva o coração

6c 7b+/c 6b+

PAREDE PEQUENA (E) PAREDE PEQUENA (F) 6c

7c+

7b

Nest

6c

29

7a 7a+

Nest

27

6a+ 6a

30

28 26

25

Peregrine Falcon, breeding period january/June

PAREDE PEQUENA (F)

PAREDE PEQUENA (E) 25. Ensopado de abutre 26. Insubmissa 27. Saltos altos 28. Granda grossa 29. Bufa e estica

6c 7a 7a+ 6a+ 7b 6a+ 7c+

30. Chacun ses plaisiers

6a 6c

Isabel Boavida, Maria Bonita

404


405


PORTUGAL Rock climbs on the western tip of Europe  

A guidebook that brings to light a compilation of most of the up to now “hidden” Portuguese rock climbing potential; a big update of what ha...

PORTUGAL Rock climbs on the western tip of Europe  

A guidebook that brings to light a compilation of most of the up to now “hidden” Portuguese rock climbing potential; a big update of what ha...

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