MUZZERONE. Crags and multipitch routes facing the sea between Porto Venere and Cinque Terre

DAVIDE BATTISTELLA

MUZZERONE Crags and multipitch routes facing the sea between Portovenere and Cinque Terre

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | CLIMBING

Second edition. February 2017 ISBN 978-88-98609-95-6 Copyright © 2017 VERSANTE SUD S.r.l. Milano via Longhi, 10, tel. 027490163 www.versantesud.it All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publishers.

Cover

Marcello Bruccini, No siesta 8b (© Davide Battistella)

Text Davide Battistella muzzerone@versantesud.it Photos

Davide Battistella and all the others who gave their precious photos

English translation

Alexandra Ercolani

Illustrations

Chiara Benedetto

Symbols

Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout

Chiara Benedetto

Printing

Tipolitografia PAGANI (BS)

zero-miles this guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

zero-miles

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook - it’s locally produced! it has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote climbing in the area reviewed. climbers benefit from local authors: - locals know the latest news and updates - locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” spots - locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in equipping new crags local authors promote and respect their area: - they review only the spots where climbing is allowed - they pay attention in the same way to any different spot - they meaningfully interact with local actors

Acknowledgments A heartfelt thanks goes to my wife Martina for the writing of this guide book, she shared the work with me as well as many days at the computer. Thanks also go to Massimo Ginesi for the important photographic contribution, and I would also like to thank Roberto Vigiani, Nunzio Formisano, Luca Angelotti, Paola Amprimo, Raffaele Giannetti, Emanuele Gelfi and my three amazing daughters Alice, Viola and Elena who physically accompanied me to the various crags and along this wonderful adventure.

Note Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualifed individuals.

In memory of our wonderful friends Mauro and Fabrizio, Antonella Gallo and Antonella Gerini, great climbers and climbing partners, in love with rocks and mountains.

You will always be with us, an integral part of these magical places .

zero-miles

This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

The icefall of Bonne Annèe Vallee d’Aoste 16 February 2017

Davide Battistella

MUZZERONE Crags and modern routes overlooking the sea between Porto Venere and Cinque Terre

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD

Preface Almost thirty years after publishing my first Muzzerone climbing guide, we are back again writing about this marvellous corner of paradise where thousands of climbers of every nationality and every level have come, making this site one of the most beautiful and most famous in the world. Its popularity is no doubt due to the unspoilt nature in which these crags are to be found with a unique passage between sea and sky, but also due to the quality of the rock which offers a considerable variety of climbing styles, with a selection of difficulties for all levels from single pitches on slab, to overhangs and alpine style multi-pitch routes, all within a unique and wild environment.

After eight years since the publication of the last guide there are not a lot of changes concerning the crags, but it seemed right to bring it up to date with new graphics, but above all with new photographs and videos to transmit to the readers those fantastic sensations experienced when climbing at Muzzerone, apart from obviously updating information on the sectors and each route.

New technology has certainly helped us make you feel part of this fantastic scenario: thanks to the wonderful aerial shots taken by a drone you will be able to see Muzzerone as never before and I assure you that the prospect is amazing, contributing even more to an easier understanding of where each climbing sector is located. Finally the exploration of the crags has brought about the creation of some multi-pitch routes starting from the sea, and it is here that the crags reserve some surprises for the future... To climb at Muzzerone is not only an athletic gesture but it means immersing yourself in unspoilt nature where the aroma of thyme mixes with the smell of the sea in a combination of unique sensations which together with some wonderful rocks makes it one of the most beautiful spots in the world!

Davide Battistella

Davide Battistella, No Siesta 8b, Specchio di Atlantide (Š Martina Martera)

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Index Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Climbing History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Geography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Climate and weather . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Back up points . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Climbing shop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28 Mountain Rescue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Recommendations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Access to Muzzerone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Type of rock and climbing characteristics . . . . . . 32 Bolting and gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Evaluation of difficulties . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Nearby climbing areas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Bibliography . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Redpoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34 Reading scheme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36

muzzerone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

Levante ligure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172

01. Garimpo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 02. Specchio di Atlantide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 03. Pilastro dell’Infinito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 04. Atlantide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 05. Solarium . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 06. Pilastro di Mezzo, Tibet and Pilastro dei Neri . . . 60 07. Thunderdome . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 08. Parete Centrale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 09. Cava degli Anelli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84 10. Parete delle Meraviglie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 11. Poveriera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 12. Polveriera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 13. Parete dimenticata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 106 14. Pilastro del Forte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 15. Pilone di Cajenna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 16. Cajenna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122 17. Pilastro del Bunker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128 18. Parete Striata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 19. Pilastro della Discordia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 20. Mandrachia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158

21. Rocchetta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 22. Monte Marcello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 23. Punta Bianca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 24. Castellana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 25. Sant’Anna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 26. Punta Manara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 27. Moneglia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212 28. Deiva Marina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218

Rapallo Sestri Levante 25 26 GENOVA

LA SPEZIA 21 Deiva marina 23 28 22 24 27 1-20

Michele Moretti, Cuor di Leone 8a, Specchio di Atlantide (© Davide Battistella)

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Garimpo

Solarium

Pilastro dell’Infinito

Atlantide Specchio di Atlantide

Pilastro dei Neri

Parete Centrale Pilastro di Mezzo

Tibet Thunderdome Cava degli Anelli

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Pilastro della Parete delle Polveriera Pilastro Parete Striata Discordia Mandrachia Meraviglie Poveriera Bianco Pilastro Pilastro del Forte Oratorio del Bunker Pilone di Cajenna Cajenna

Pilastro Selvaggio

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Introduction CLIMBING HISTORY Muzzerone’s climbing history begins thanks to the work of the Italian Navy who, from their base situated in the beautiful bay of Varignano at Le Grazie, started to use this crag during the seventies for their military training.

The first routes were set up thanks to Giuseppe Verbi and Mao Marchisio, military climbing instructors from Comsubin (Diver and Raider Command Group) who also took part in the Monzino military expedition to Everest in 1973. They equipped the historical routes Via Barabino and Corrado Penna on the Parete Centrale, and they had the merit of transforming Muzzerone into a military and mountaineering training area.

At the end of the seventies a handful of local alpinists, among whom Renzo Covre, Bruno Maincardi, Sandro Trentarossi and the Pecini brothers, started bolting new routes on these beautiful limestone rock faces and using the area like a proper open air gym to train during the winter months ready to tackle the classic routes in the Alps during the summer.

In the meantime throughout Europe the climbers of that period, motivated by new ideas and new styles which were brought over from the climbing sanctuaries of the moment such as Yosemite in California, were shaping mentalities and philosophies, also thanks to new technology and new tools.

The crags at the bottom of the valley or those overlooking the sea were no longer considered as areas reserved only for training, but they became attractive and fascinating destinations with their own dignity.

The new wind blowing across the Old Continent passes by Verdon and reaches Valle dell’Orco and Val di Mello making itself felt here too.

At the beginning of the eighties the young climbers Davide Battistella, Roberto Vigiani, Mattia Di Bono and Massimo Ginesi came on the scene.

They free climb the old routes and for the first times bolts begin to appear.

The climbers’ new philosophies, the intense training, the safer protections with bolts being placed closer, lead to a speedy increase in the difficulties climbed even in Muzzerone; finding and developing new sectors brings about the development of new crags, also thanks to the untiring Bruno Manicardi and the young climbers mentioned above.

Davide Battistella bolts and frees the extremely difficult routes on the Parete Centrale, which still to this day do not have many repetitions, such as Mamy on sight (7b), Delirium post mortem (7c), Banzai (7c+), Morte subito (7b+). Phnom Phen (7c+).

At the same time the systematic exploration of the area starts off looking for new walls to climb. Vigiani discovers the Polveriera, a red overhanging rock face where he bolts and climbs many routes up to 7c, among which No smoking and Brain Power which has become a must in endurance climbing.

Battistella and Vigiani together discover the Parete delle Meraviglie and bolt the historic routes Excalibur and Lo Spigolo delle Meraviglie, the first routes of a wall which today has been improved thanks to many medium difficulty routes in a wonderful environment.

One day, in 1993, Roberto Vigiani, together with Tino Amore, heads into a couloir which goes towards the sea and notices an imposing structure which is roughly 200 meters high, he calls it the Pilastro del bunker: that is how this sector is born, bolted from the ground up. Chi vuole essere lieto… lieto sia, a splendid route, which has now become a classic, it runs up a magnificent environment, offering great climbing, with a difficulty of 5th grade on excellent rock.

Exploration moves towards Porto Venere: where the splendid Parete Striata is discovered, it is approximately 200 metres high and is situated in a wild environment overlooking the sea.

Sandro Trentarossi 1987, Spigolo delle Meraviglie 6b+ (© Arch. Trentarossi); Davide Battistella 1986, Morte Subito 7b+ (© D.Santini) Roberto Vigiani 1986, Gonna Fly now 7a Parete Centrale (© D. Battistella); Mattia Di Bono 1987, Futura 7a+ Parete Centrale (© D.Santini) Giacomo Bertoncini, Shake 7b Specchio di Atlantide (© Davide Battistella)

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Introduction

Thanks to Mattia Di Bono and Bruno Manicardi the beautiful route Supernova (7 pitches on fabulous rock with difficulties up to 6b+) and the difficult route Tempi Duri is born, bolted by Vigiani and Battistella, who then went on to open the first 7a from the ground up.

Sandro Trentarossi (the paratrooper) and Carlo Pecini pushed themselves from the base of the Striata towards Porto Venere and discovered the marvellous Pilastro della Discordia, where the route Sogno Infranto is equipped, it is a beautiful multi pitch route, completely overlooking the sea, and successively on the same pillar, “Il Trenta” opens il Ventennale a multi-pitch route which still to this day is not often repeated.

The exploration continues and Parete Dimenticata, la Cayenna, the upper and lower sectors of Mandrachia are discovered and bolted. As well as the Pilone di Cayenna, a desolate pillar which still to this day is not very well known and situated in a wild environment, then Polveriera which quickly becomes a busy crag, especially thanks to the quality of its rock and the beauty of its routes, all of medium difficulty.

It is during the early nineties that Muzzerone’s best crags are discovered: lo Specchio di Atlantide, where Vigiani bolts and frees the more difficult routes, No Siesta (8b) and Rosa Shocking (8b), difficult routes situated in an impressive almost Verdon-like environment; then there is Atlantide, a beautiful crag consisting of slabs and overhangs which make up a paradise of rock, sun and sea facing the Mediterranean.

The last crag to be discovered and bolted is Garimpo, a window overlooking Muzzerone, with routes up to 8a immersed in an impressive environment.

It is appropriate at this point to mention Marcello Bruccini, an extremely strong climber from La Spezia who appears on the scene of Muzzerone in 1989.

This phenomenon at the age of 14, who was practically adopted by Davide Battistella, climbs in very few attempts Delirium Post Mortem (7c) on Parete Centrale and a year after Gilgamesch (8a) on Specchio of Atlantide. His progression does not end here and “Marcellino” at the age of

16 climbs Cuor di Leone at Specchio, and the year after that the difficult and famous No Siesta and Rosa Shocking, the two 8b’s bolted by Vigiani on the Specchio.

It is without a doubt that Marcello Bruccini’s climbing activity at Muzzerone will leave a permanent mark on the history of this crag and it will be difficult to emulate, even if recently a young eighteen year old from Tuscany, Giacomo Bertoncini, has repeated almost all the most difficult routes in Muzzerone, among which the historical route No Siesta; but it is well known that the age at which climbing exploits are achieved has now been remarkably lowered all over the world, especially in the world of competitions, therefore we should not be too surprised if some young kids will soon put their hands on these famous routes…they are probably already doing so…

The story continues and brings us up to date: a good number of local climbers are dedicating time to climbing numerous routes and at the same time rebolting the busiest sectors.

Among the most recent: Trident, a new, impressive achievement by Vigiani: 5 pitches starting from the sea and coming out at Mandrachia; Coup de foudre at Pilastro dell’Infinito, three pitches up to 7b, bolted in 2003 by Battistella, in a magical environment, offering breath taking views.

Vigiani continued the exploration towards the sea and bolted the beautiful Poseidon also starting from the sea, a multi-pitch route in an impressive environment situated to the left of Trident, while Bruno Manicardi with Giovanni Celoria and a few other local climbers have been heading towards Porto Venere looking for new corners of paradise…

Almost all of the more evident sectors seem to have been discovered or bolted, but Muzzerone is an area full of surprises…

Probably the future will bring with it multi-pitch routes starting from the sea, a possibility which up to now has only been partly exploited.

Let’s leave space to our imagination but above all to the call for adventure in this area which is infinitely beautiful and wild: the dream continues…

Marcello Bruccini, Colpo di Bianco 7c Atlantide (© Davide Battistella)

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Introduction

GEOGRAPHY Mount Muzzerone is the final part of the long secondary ridge which branches off from the main one of the Appenines, it is level with mount Zatta and creates the watershed between Vara and Riviera.

It is situated in the midst of a marvellous landscape: towards north-west the National Park of the Cinque Terre extends while towards south-

east you will find Porto Venere and the islands of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto.

On the West side, imposing pillars rise up as well as white rock faces overlooking the sea, while towards east it gradually descends towards the village of Le Grazie and Porto Venere. The scenery changes from a wild world to the colourful coming and going of tourists who crowd the Golfo dei Poeti every season.

Muzzerone’s crags, Isola Palmaria and Isola del Tino (Š Davide Battistella)

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Muzzerone is inserted within the Regional Natural Park of Porto Venere and its islands, which was established under regional law n°30 of 3/9/2001, with the precious objectives of guaranteeing the conservation of the natural environment, the biological, historical and cultural values of the territory, as well as promoting tourism while respecting the environment.

Flora The climatic characteristics of the Mediterranean environment (summer season is hot with very little precipitation, winter season mild and rainy) has determined certain adaptations on the part of the vegetation which surrounds Muzzerone’s rock faces. This is essentially made up of evergreen Sclerophyll: a species (trees, bushes and

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Introduction

grass) with leathery leaves which are not lost during winter. The first characteristic is due to the scarce availability of water during summer because having “hard” leaves means reducing evaporation and avoiding damage from the heat of the sun: the second underlines the possibility of accessing water even during the colder period (temperatures rarely go below zero and therefore the water never freezes). We are immersed in what is known as Mediterranean scrub, during its different moments of evolution: first of all “gariga” with its poor soil, protruding rocks and small aromatic bushes such as Helichrysum or Imortelle (Helicrysum italicum (Roth) Don, Helicrysum stocheas (L.) Moench.), Thyme (Thymus vulgaris L.), Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis L.) relegated to the Island of Tino and Rue (Ruta angustifolia Pers., Ruta chalepensis L.).

This plant looks like a small bush which blooms between April and July and has a flower with yellow-green fringed petals, its smell is characteristic and unpleasant and the plant as well as being used in small quantities in the production of liquor is considered toxic because it contains furocoumarines and rutin and for its alkaloid quinolones present in the essential oils extract-

ed from it.

It is therefore recommended NOT to touch the plant with your bare hands due to the possibility of getting a rash and blisters. Every year this plant causes numerous burns to climbers unaware of its properties and who touch it accidentally.

Instead there are plenty of narcissus (Narcissus tazetta L.) which in spring, but especially in winter even in December, can be found along the sunny crags of the area.

Next you see the Cistuses scrub (Cistus creticus L., C. monspeliensis L., C. salvifolius L.) with its pretty and delicate pink/violet and white flowers until you come to the real Mediterranean scrub with Lentisk (Pistacia lentiscus L.), Arbutus (Arbutus unedo L.), Broom (Spartium junceum L.), Viburnum (Viburnum tinus L.) with insertions of Holm oaks (Quercus ilex L.) and Aleppo Pines (Pinus halepensis Mill.) which rarely grow into real woods.

The cornflower of Porto Venere (Centaurea veneris (Somm.) Beg.) and the Euforbia tree (Euphorbia dendroides L.) deserve a separate mention, for differenct reasons. The first is an endemism present exclusively on the promontory of Porto Venere and on the islands; the second,

Michele Moretti, Non voglio mica la luna 7b, Monte Marcello (© Davide Battistella) Yellow-legged gull (© Massimo Ginesi)

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Mountain Guide Ufficio Guide

ProRockOutdoor

Via Battisti, 25 Camaiore (Lu) Tel. +39 05841942307 mob. +39 3451168661 www.prorockoutdoor.it prorock@toscoclimb.it

Roberto Vigiani

Climbing, Alpinism, Ski-mountaineering, Canyoning, Trekking, MTB, Vie ferrate

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Introduction

a relic of the Tertiary becomes red and loses its leaves during summer time and contains a dangerous latex which can cause burns and blisters for climbers who come into contact with it and are exposed to the sun.

Porto Venere’s cornflower is characterised by its beautiful pinkish flowering, with the apex slightly darker, purplish and blooms on the crags between June and July. It is a rare endemism in its area of distribution and is very restricted and limited to Muzzerone, the island of Palmaria, Tino and Tinetto. It represents the relic of an ancient Mediterranean flower which covered a much wider area compared to today.

Fauna During climbing and excursions in the territory of the Park it is easy to bump into a whole variety of animals which have ably adapted to their surrounding environment. It is sufficient to remember that the Peregrine Falcon – Falco peregrinus (Tunstall, 1771), protected by EU legislationm nests on the white crags overlooking the sea while another permanent fixture but certainly less discreet, is the Herring gull – Laurus cachinnans (Pallas, 1811). Rarer but still sighted are the Marangone tuft - Phalacrocorax aristotelis

desmarestii (Linnaeus, 1758), also protected, and the Pallid Swift – Apus pallidus (Shelley, 1870). A very tangible presence is that of the Raven which flies majestically and in always larger numbers across the crags of Muzzerone and the islands, sometimes entering into conflict with the many falcons in the area giving rise to real aerial battles which can be quite spectacular. The lesser fauna is also very rich and besides the common Gecko - Tarentola mauritanica (Linnaeus, 1758) the Tarantolino - Euleptes europaea (Genè, 1839) is also present: the smallest gecko of the 4 Italian species, an endemism of the western Mediterranean and present in Liguria only in Tino and Tinetto and some sites behind Genoa, inserted into legislation 92/43/CE and on the Red List of IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature). Still on the subject of herpetofauna, right on top of Mount Muzzerone a small population of Alpine newts - Triturus alpestris (Laurenti, 1768) has been sighted, frequently you will also come across the Toad - Bufo bufo (Linnaeus 1758), The west whip snake - Hierophis viridiflavus (Lacépède, 1789), The Aesculapian snake - Zamenis longissimus (Laurenti, 1768) and the Wall Lizard - Podarcis muralis (Laurenti, 1768).

Viola Battistella, Niente per caso 7a+, Parete Centrale (© Davide Battistella) Daffodils (© Davide Battistella)

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Peregrine falcon (© Massimo Ginesi)

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Introduction 22

CLIMATE AND WEATHER Muzzerone usually enjoys a mild and temperate, typically Mediterreanean climate. Winter time is never very cold, and the rock faces are all west facing, therefore protected and sheltered by the rare incursions of Tramontana northerly winds, coming from the Balkans.

When the wind blows from the sea it can be annoying, there are very few rock faces sheltered from this wind and usually it is not a simple breeze.

For climbing, the best seasons are spring and autumn; during summer it is best to avoid the hottest hours and make the most of the morning shade or the afternoon’s cool Mistral wind.

If it rains (but not too heavily) the only sector where it is possible to climb is the Polveriera.

A few websites on the weather: www.ilmeteo.it www.meteospezia.it www.meteoliguria.it

Muzzerone’s crags, Isola Palmaria and Isola del Tino (Š Luca Angelotti)

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Introduction

WHERE TO STAY For stopping over in the area we recommend: - Rifugio Muzzerone 10 beds Ettore tel. +39 340 8098720 It is on path no.1 between Muzzerone and Porto Venere,about 10 minutes from the first and 25 from the second, in a beautiful panoramic spot.

Excellent base for climbing and excursions in the area. The hut also acts as operational base for La Spezia Mountain Rescue.

- CEA Porto Venere Via del Comune, 1 Porto Venere Tel. +39 0187 792606 info@ostelloportovenere.it -Ostello Tramonti Via Filzi, 110 Biassa (La Spezia) Tel. +39 0187 758507 www.ostellotramonti.it

- B&B La Batteria via Garibaldi, 12 Porto Venere Tel. +39 3317901745 www.labatteriaportovenere.com - Hostel Cinque Terre Manarola (comune di Riomaggiore) Tel. +39 0187 920215 www.hostel5terre.com - Excellent hotels at Le Grazie and Porto Venere Camping at Lerici (30 km), Levanto (50 km), Bocca di Magra (40 km).

Free camping is forbidden.

For a break after climbing we recommend: - Bar Luigi Via Gallotti, 90 Fezzano (Porto Venere) Tel. +39 347 2772123 - Pizza e Farinata Santoni Viale Italia, 38 La Spezia Tel. +39 347 4920857

The church of San Pietro Porto Venere, Muzzerone in the background (Š Andrea Costaguta)

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g g

(Š Luca Angelotti)

rifugio muzzerone trek climb & sea

A stone throw‘s away from the climbing walls and from Portovenere‘s sea a chance to relax Immersed in nature, in a panoramic position.

Catered for with local dishes, sleeping accommodation for 14 people.

Open all year round.

Excursions and climbing courses with Mountain Guides.

www.rifugiomuzzerone.it rifugiomuzzerone@libero.it Tel. +39 340 8098720 Mountain rescue post

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MOUNTAIN RESCUE In case of accident, alert La Spezia Mountain Rescue (Soccorso Alpino di La Spezia), by calling phone no. 118 Following information to be supplied: - specify the gravity of the injury itself: if the person is conscious, breathing, - indicate the number of people involved - indicate the exact place (crag, route, what pitch) - wait for the rescue team.

RECOMMENDATIONS The Muzzerone crags are an integral part of the Porto Venere natural park and is therefore an area of high naturalistic interest; it is strictly forbidden to light fires throughout the year, pick flowers and any other local plants, rocks, minerals and fossils. The state’s Forestry body, the provincial police and the Carabinieri keep watch over the territory with an almost constant presence.

Since this area is very fragile it is important to move as far away as possible from the crags when nature calls and cover or bury your needs afterwards and avoid at all costs doing them on the paths!

Be especially careful after heavy rain particularly on the multi-pitch crags, in fact it would be better to avoid them all together, but in any case always wear a helmet, due to the possibility of falling rock.

Elisa Spigai, O sole Mio 6a, La Caienna (© Davide Battistella)

Edicola Le Grazie Via Libertà, 267 Le Grazie Tel. 348 8838122

colazioni cucina aperitivi take away

Bar RICCI Via Liberta‘, 255 Le Grazie Tel. 0187 777706

Bar Ricci - Le Grazie

Introduction

CLIMBING SHOP ALP STATION Variante Aurelia, 7 Sarzana (SP) Tel. +39 0187 624389

29

Introduction

ACCESS TO MUZZERONE By car La Spezia is reached from the motorway link road which ends on Via Carducci; at the end of Via Carducci you come to a wide road (Viale Italia), which you go along (turning to the left) following directions for Porto Venere. Drive along the seafront (Molo Italia), at the end of it turn right into Viale Amendola, and at the traffic lights turn left into Viale Fieschi, where the provincial road begins.

Going along the provincial road from the city to Porto Venere you go through the villages of Marola, Cadimare, Fezzano. Before reaching the village of Le Grazie there is a junction on the right, where there is a clear sign indicating the crag (in front of the car park for the Pubblica Assistenza ambulances); so leave the provincial road and go up to the right. Follow the road for about 4 km and you reach another junction; here you take the road downhill to your left (on the right you reach a viewing point over the whole area as far as Monte Castellana) and after a few bends you reach the crags of Muzzerone.

For parking in the various sectors see the descriptions given in the individual chapters.

On foot The crags of Muzzerone can also be reached on foot from Porto Venere, following the path which starts just behind the castle (CAI signpost no.1).

The path is fairly steep, but well marked and used often; it takes about 30 minutes uphill.

From the sea It is possible to reach Porto Venere and Le Grazie by boat. From the Molo Italia in La Spezia the Consorzio Marittimo Golfo dei Poeti boat leaves roughly every hour and reaches Porto Venere after a crossing of approx. 30 minutes. (www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it; tel. +39 0187 732987).

Boatman “Palmaria Noleggio” at +39 3388548957 from Porto Venere.

By train On the Genova-Livorno line get off at La Spezia central station; continue by bus 11/P to Porta Venere (www.atcservizio.it; tel. + 39 0187 522511) By plane Genoa’s Cristoforo Colombo International Airport is 100 km away.

Pisa’s Galileo Galilei International Airport is at a distance of 90 km.

Porto Venere (© Davide Battistella)

30

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Jenny Lavarda, Trident (Ph Massimo Ginesi)

Introduction 32

BOLTS AND EQUIPMENT Almost all the routes are excellently equipped with resin bolts or stainless steel bolts, even if in some sectors you will find some ancient bolts. A large group of local climbers is currently re-equipping all the crags.

The crag is exposed to the sea, therefore the level of wear and tear on the equipment is high, so always be very careful and check the state of the anchors and fixed ropes which facilitate the access to some of the sectors.

We recommend the use of a helmet for all multi-pitch routes; after a period of heavy rainfall at both the Parete Striata and Atlantide bassa rock fall usually occurs.

A 60 metre rope is enough; you might want to use nuts and friends, especially for some of the multi-pitch routes as well as webbing for the anchors.

TECHNICAL DIFFICULTY For all routes, both classical and equipped with bolts, the French grading system has been used.

For each itinerary the maximum difficulty is indicated as well as its obligatory grade. In some cases the number of moves which need to (or can) be made by aid climbing.

EVALUATING THE DIFFICULTIES One of the recurring problems is how to carefully evaluate routes. Nonetheless I have tried to be as objective as possible, even comparing the opinions of those who frequent these crags regularly. As far as the multi-pitch routes are concerned, as well as including the French scale difficulty I placed side by side Versante Sud’s evaluation which has by now been used in all the Versante Sud mountaineering guides.

We will therefore have three parameters to evaluate and therefore three different grading systems to compare in a specific route’s topo: the technical difficulty, its protectability, general effort required. To have a more precise idea on a route, it will therefore be necessary to always express all three parameters, because none taken separately will be sufficient for whoever repeats the route.

GLOBAL EFFORT This scale replaces the classical French scale (TD EDS) in evaluating the route’s global effort, the environment in which the route is undertaken, the difficulty in retreating and the distance from the bottom of the valley. Essentially it is the American grading system used for big walls, expressed in Roman numerals from I to VII (but it is still an open scale) put side by side with the technical difficulty.

As you can see from the table the grading system is completely separate from the difficulty which will always be put beside the Roman numeral.

PROTECTABILITY A scale which exclusively keeps in mind the distance and the reliability of an anchor which uses an “S” for bolted routes and an “R” for routes which are equipped with pegs or are not equipped at all. For mixed routes “RS” is used.

This table is divided into 6 levels, where R6 consists of a pitch which is almost or totally unprotectable, with lethal risks in case of a fall. The grading system is obviously open.

other climbing sites nearby Valle di Vinca 40 km. Tuscany Camaiorese 60 km. Tuscany Vecchiano 74 km. Tuscany Pietra di Bismantova 100 km. Emilia Romagna Finale Ligure 170 km. Liguria

PROTECTION S1

Normal protection system such as on cliffs. Average distance between bolts: 3,4 metres. Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

S2

Distant bolts and compulsory passages from one bolt to another. Potential length of fall: a maximum of 10 metres; fall without danger.

S3

Distant bolts, almost always compulsory passages. A distance of sometimes more than 5 metres between bolts. Long falls but not very dangerous.

S4

Very distant bolts (more than 7 metres), compulsory passages. A fall can potentially cause an injury.

S5

Bolts more than 10 metres apart, compulsory passages and parts where a fall can surely cause an injury (fall on terraces and ledges or directly to the ground).

S6

Partially bolted but far from cruxes, long parts (more than 20 metres) from which a fall could be mortal.

R1

Easy to protect, always solid, safe and numerous protections. Few compulsory passages. Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

R2

Fairly easy to protect, always solid and safe protections, smaller in number. Compulsory passages between protections. Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

R3

Difficult to protect, not always good protections, bolts rather distant from each other. Long compulsory passages. Potential length of fall until 7-8 metres, fall with possible injury.

R4 Difficult to protect, scarce and/or unreliable and/or distant protections which could allow just a small fall.

Long compulsory passages. Potential length of fall until 15 metres with possibility of losing the anchors. Fall with a high possibility of injury.

R5

Difficult to protect, scarce, unreliable and/or distant protections, which could allow just a small fall. Long compulsory passages. Possibility of long falls that might lead to the ground with consequent serious injuries.

R6

Not possible to protect but for short and insignificant passages far from cruxes. A fall could be mortal.

OVERALL FEATURES I

Short route just taking a few hours, near the road and with a comfortable approach track, nice surrounding and easy downclimb.

II

Multi-pitch route on a wall of more than 200 metres of length, easy approach track, rather long, easy downclimb.

III

Long route of more than 300 metres that will take all day long, difficult surrounding. Long approach track and rather slow downclimb.

IV

Very long route of more than 500 metres, on severe wall far away from the bottom of the valley. It will take you all day long and the downclimb might be complicated, as you can't climb down the same route.

V

Very long route, big wall style, requires a bivvi on the wall. Difficult downclimb, difficult surrounding.

VI

Big wall which requires more days on the walls, High Mountain surrounding, difficult downclimb.

VII All the features of the 6th grade, but exasperated, such as on big walls in the Himalayas, which need a real expedition.

33

Introduction

BIBLIOGRAphy Le guide di Alp, Luoghi della libera 1, Vivalda Editore, 1987 D. Battistella, R. Vigiani, Muzzerone. Guida alle arrampicate, CAI La Spezia, 1988 A. Churcher, Italian Rock selected climbs in northern Italy, Cicerone Press, 1988 D. Battistella, Muzzerone. Guida alle arrampicate, CAI La Spezia, 1994 F. Pierpaoli, Il sale sulle mani, Publipres Editrice, 1999 F. Pierpaoli, Di sasso di sale di sole, Microart’s Edizioni, 2005 C. Roccati, L’altimetro segna zero, Le Mani, 2007 D. Battistella, Muzzerone e Levante Ligure, Edizioni Versante Sud, 2008 C. Roccati, Onde di pietra, Idee Verticali, 2012 E. Alamichel, Faces à la mer, Editions Gap, 2014 REDPOINT No siesta, 8b Specchio di Atlantide Rosa shocking, 8b Specchio di Atlantide Fuga da boux, 8a+ Specchio di Atlantide Violante, 8a+ Mandrachia alta Gilgamesch, 8a Specchio di Atlantide Signor Dobberman, 8a Garimpo Variante, 8a Atlantide bassa

Roberto Vigiani Roberto Vigiani Roberto Vigiani Davide Battistella Roberto Vigiani Marcello Bruccini Marcello Bruccini

Elisa Mazzoni , Ovomaltina 7a, Specchio di Atlantide (© Davide Battistella)

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menu Portovenere ~ due piatti tipici,dolce, bevande incluse € 25,00 Consigliata la prenotazione tel. 3472601008 via Olivo, 29 Portovenere

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medium high

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overcrowding

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NOTES The Gps coordinates for the base of the rock faces are indicative and have the aim to approximately locate the rock faces on the map. Since there are no tracks for the approach, and being on steep terrain, they must not be used to reach the rock face.

Many of the photographic images and all the videos published in this guide book, which are possible to see by downloading one of the many apps which read QR codes, were made by Luca Angelotti with the use of a drone.

It is very easy to download an app, all you have to do is look up on Google Play or App Store depending on the make of your smartphone, QR code readers and press download.

The application will allow you to access a lot more info on our other guide books, such as the gps coordinates of car parks or entire gps tracks to reach the crags. Don’t miss the amazing videos in this guidebook!

36

Dani Fuertes, Rodellar, Spain camera Javi Pec

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01

Muzzerone

GARIMPO WEST

Here is Garimpo. A small, solitary and wild crag which definitely deserves a visit: a balcony overlooking the sea, with a breathtaking view over Muzzerone. It is not very busy: the access is not immediate, and the routes are all very difficult. The routes in this sector, despite running up an overhanging slab, are very technical and require remarkable finger strength.

Watch out there is a drop at the base of the rock face.

The routes are equipped with bolts and resin bolts.

This area is in the sun during the afternoon.

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ACCESS Coming up from Le Grazie, just beyond the Derby saddle, and before the quarry you will find the Parete Centrale, which presents an evident hair pin bend facing the sea, and opens up into a large opening, park your car here.

From the opening, facing towards the sea, head down along the trail, towards the top of an evident pillar; without reaching it, continue to the right, downhill, till you reach a rock step, equipped with a fixed rope.

From here reach the base of the rock face, from where the more popular routes start.

The itinerary requires approximately 10 minutes.

You can also reach the other part of the sector by continuing to the right along the fixed rope and a dangerous path, going round a small rock face and then reaching the start of routes 9 to 12.

Due to the danger of the path, and the routes’ old bolting, we do not recommend you visit this second part.

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10 min approach

Yes - No for beginners

Yes - No

dry climbing in the rain

Yes - No fit for families

Yes - No

multi pitch routes

1 1 1 1

2 2 2

1

1

<5a 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

38

Mattia Parsi, Spettacolo 7c (© Luca Polucci)

fort quarry

LE GRAZIE SELLA DI DERBY

Atlantide

path n.1

GARIMPO

fixed rope

fixed rope

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01 Muzzerone Garimpo

1. KEROSENE 2. GARIMPEROS 3. SPETTACOLO 4. MASTROTABELLA 5. MARMOREA 6. SIGNOR DOBBERMAN 7. COMPAGNO CERECOF 8. PASTA E BASTA 9. WITHOUT NAME 10. WITHOUT NAME 11. WITHOUT NAME 12. WITHOUT NAME

6c 7a 7c 7b+ 7c+ 8a 7b 7a 5c NL 6a 6b

15m 15m 15m 20m 20m 20m 20m 20m 15m 20m 15m 15m

Short technical slab Explosive single crux Endurance on small holds Great slab requires intuition Finger strength and movement Endurance on tiny holds Overhanging technical slab Nice crux on overhang Technical slab Movement and friction Good footwork is fundamental

GARIMPO

7c+ 7b+

6c 7a

?

8a

7a

6b

5c

7c

6a

7b

1

2 3

4

5

6 7

8 9

10

11

12

Viola Battistella, Kerosene 6c (© Davide Battistella)

40

41

www.montura.it

ALPSTATION SARZANA Via Variante Aurelia, 7 19038 Sarzana (SP) Tel. +39 0187 624389 sarzana@alpstation.it