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MARCO TOMASSINI

FINALE climbing

Sports climbing and multi-pitches routes

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD | COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI | CLIMBING


COLLANA LUOGHI VERTICALI

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD


First edition. November 2011 Second edition. May 2017 ISBN 978 88 98609 819 Copyright © 2016 VERSANTE SUD S.r.l. Milano via Longhi, 10, tel. +39 02 7490163 www.versantesud.it All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries. Cover

I Nuovi Guerrieri, 7b, Placca Piotti, Rocca di Perti (ph. Andrea Costaguta)

Text

Marco Tomassini

Translations

Melanie Roberts

Drawings

Iacopo Leardini

Area map and topos

Tommaso Bacciocchi. © Mapbox, © Open Street Map

Symbols

Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout

Ilaria Raboni

Printed by

Tipolitografia Pagani - Passirano (BS)

Aknowledgments

I would like to thank in particular a number of people who gave decisive help in the writing of this guidebook: Alessandro Grillo, Mauro Borra, Cesare Marchesi, Luciano Pizzorni, Giovanni Rocca, Matteo (Donde) Felanda, Giorgio Delfino and Elena Troiano. For the equipment given to me for the bolting and rebolting of routes that has been done more recently I thank the Town Council of Finale Ligure and in particular Massimo Gualberti (councillor for sport) and Giorgio and Ivana Scarrone of the agriturismo A Cà de Alice No less important and in alphabetical order, listed below are the names of all the other people who have helped me with important information, who have made themselves available for photos and in many cases have equipped crags and routes in the Finale area. Adriano (Sguara) Giovani, Alessio Chiappino, Andrea Costaguta, Antonio (Beroldo) Punturo, Artur&Helmut Wundlechner, Chiara Minetti, Christian Roccati, Da-

vide Allegretti, Davide (Zak) Zaccone, Daniele (Jack) Canale, Dimitri (Dimi) Frascio, Domenico (Domingo) Spatari, Elena Carpignano, Eugenio (Euge) Gardella, Fabio Pierpaoli (associazione Outdoor Liguria), Francesca Vallarino, Franco Rolando, Gerardo (Gerry) Fornaro, Gianni Duregato, Gianni Ghiglione, Gianni Salvarani, Gino (Pitta) Pittaluga, Guido (mattonella) Jafelice, Leonardo (Leo) Castagnoli, Lodovico Spiota, Luca Fida, Luca Lenti, Lucia Brignola, Marco Pukli, Marco (Zamba) Zambarino, Matteo Caropreso, Mauro (Maurino) Carena, Micol (Miky) Schiaroli, Monica Fama, Pier Carlo Franco, Piero Favetta, Renato (Biro) Berruti, Riccardo Giovannetti, Riccardo (Ricky) Negro, Roberto Bolzan, Silvio Ivaldi, Simone (Gunter) Baglietto, Tommaso Sciannella and Vincent De Bentzmann. Also I thank all those people who have helped me occasionally but unfortunately I don't know their names and those that I may have forgotten… THANK YOU.

Note Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport, and those that partake do so at their own risk. All the descriptions in this guide have been based on information available at the time, but this should always be evaluated for yourself or by a qualified person before undertaking any climb.


FOR CLIMBING

BOOKS FORBOLTS

In memory of Elena Carpignano, a friend with a contagious smile that none of us will ever forget.

ZERO-KMS

Aiguille du Jardin, Mont Blanc 23 April 2017

The writer of this guide lives and develops climbing on his own territory

2% of the proceeds from this guidebook are re-invested in material for re-bolting routes and crags

Marco Tomassini

FINALE climbing

Sports climbing and multi-pitch routes 192 crags

EDIZIONI VERSANTE SUD


Introduction

Introduction by the author The Finale area is magical and inimitable: wild, harsh and with an exceptional landscape. These white limestone cliffs that emerge from the luxuriant and deep green vegetation are unique in the whole western region of Liguria. The Finale area is a place to be explored that offers even today after 30 years of climbing and trekking, surprising views for climbers, trekkers and bikers… and for anyone who feels like walking around these valleys. The wild nature of the Val Cornei and the Val di Nava, the solitary and majestically imposing wall of Monte Cucco, of the North face of Perti and of the Bastionata di Boragni, the beauty, the colours and the views from Rocca di Corno, the vertical walls of Lacremà and its ancient Borgo, Noli and the sea ruffled by the North wind, make this region a unique place. For these reasons the Finale area is frequented by lovers of nature and outdoor sports from all over Europe. The paths of Finale are travelled not only by climbers, but also trekkers, bikers, birdwatchers, archaeologists and cavers. With respect for this diversity, everyone needs to approach this territory with care and show consideration for other visitors. With a renewed interest in climbing, 2011 was already a turning point with the award of the prize “A life for Finale” to Alessandro Grillo, making a well deserved, if late, gesture of thanks to a personality whose life has been indissolubly linked with the rock of Finale. My work has also been part of this renewed interest. It has two very important aims: above all to make these splendid crags accessible to everyone, to allow them to experience the emotions of climbing routes that offer new perspectives on the surrounding territory, but not only. This guidebook is an attempt above all to thank and acknowledge all those people like Alessandro Grillo, Gianni Calcagno, Vittorio Simonetti and the brothers Gian Luigi and Eugenio Vaccari who, in far off 1968 with mountaineering boots on their feet, discovered Finale starting its vertical history, to the many young, and not so young, people today that still bolt, clean paths and keep this legacy alive. A tribute to all the bolters, from the glories of the past to the new generations, without which my work would not exist.

Marco (Thomas) Tomassini, Easy dalle (Capo Noli) (© Fabrizio Meraviglia)

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Monte Sordo settore centrale, Chiara Minetti, Fessura Oliva (L2) 6a+ (Š M. Tomassini)

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Introduction 6

Technical Introduction Finale Ligure, thanks to its micro-climate, has the huge advantage that you can climb the whole year round, and it is for this reason that it is very well known and popular with climbers from all over Europe. The rock in Finale is a marine limestone characterised by pockets and drops created by dripping water. Vertical walls and slightly leaning slabs are the predominant style of climbing. For several decades now stainless steel glued bolts have been used due to the proximity of the sea, which with its salt air would corrode at great speed any non-stainless steel anchors, and also due to the porosity of the rock that makes expansion bolts less reliable. The predominant style of climbing is technical on vertical fingery walls, almost always with a hard single that is found in most cases in the last few meters of the route. There are however overhangs and roofs to be discovered with other types of holds like tufas, or horizontal edges; cracks, arêtes and corners are found especially on the classic multi-pitch routes. The existing crags in the Finale area are numerous and year-by-year they grow in number; currently there are about 3000 routes divided between more than 180 sectors with many different orientations which makes it possible to climb in the different seasons. It is rare to find belay chains with a carabiner, usually there is a closed maillon rapide (blocked so that it cannot be opened) and even more often there is not even a chain but two fixed anchors “French style”. The distance between the bolts is not normally that great, the average bolting leaves about 2 meters between one protection and the next, but given that there are many bolters who have made some sort of contribution in the Finale area over the years, it is possible to come across crags where the bolts are more widely spaced. In Finale Ligure it is also possible to climb on crags situated on the sea cliffs experiencing the “thrill” of climbing with the sea beneath your feet; the crags in the Capo Noli area (Dancing Dalle, Easy Dalle, I Pilastri, and Nolitudine) have this characteristic and also the peculiarity of climbing on a type of limestone that is very different from the rest of the Finale area. A couple of crags can be reached on foot from the railway station: Paretina di Finalborgo (30 minutes) and Rocce dell’Orera (50 minutes). The average length of the footpaths to reach the crags is 20 minutes, only in rare cases 10 or 40 minutes. In about 15 minutes it is possible to drive from one crag to another. The general difficulty of the routes goes from 3a and reaches 8c+, most crags have routes going from 6a to 7a and the really easy routes are unfortunately few and scattered here and there in various sectors. It should also be noted that specific signs to reach the crags are practically non-existent and the widest and most obvious paths are those that lead to the more popular crags. The numerous junctions and forks, combined with the dense vegetation, do not help in reaching the sectors. For this reason, it was decided, in this guidebook, to pay particular attention to the description of the approaches and to include GPS points for each crag. There are numerous sectors that are particularly beautiful, either for the quality of the rock or for their location, and that merit being visited. Some of these should absolutely not be missed: Grotta dell’Edera, Grotta della Strapatente, Bric Scimarco, I Tre Frati, Monte Sordo and Rocca di Corno.


USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS AND ADDRESSES Tourist Information Office for Finale Ligure  +39 019 681019  finalehotel@libero.it Salewa mountain shop   +39 019 6816230 Breakdown service, A.C.I.   +39 803116 Mountain Rescue Finale Ligure   118  www.soccorsoalpinofinaleligure.it Carabinieri  112 Police  113 Fire Brigade  115 Medical emergencies and ambulance service  118

Road police  +39 019 681501 Urban police  +39 019 691380 Urgent medical care (Guardia Medica)  800 556688 Chemist: Farmacia Del Borgo (Finalborgo)  +39 019 690623 Chemist: Farmacia Della Marina (Finalmarina)  +39 019 692670 Santa Corona Hospital (Pietra Ligure)  +39 019 62301 San Paolo Hospital (Savona)  +39 019 84041 Taxi service  +39 338 6084798 If you want to contact the author: Marco “Thomas” Tomassini  +39 346 6932376  www.finalebythomas.com  info@finalebythomas.com

BIBLIOGRAPHY Gianni Calcagno, Alessandro Grillo, Vittorio Simonetti, La pietra del Finale, guida alle palestre di arrampicamento Finalesi, Siag Genova, 1975 Andrea Parodi, Alessandro Grillo, La pietra di Finale, guida alle arrampicate e alle escursioni, Microlito editrice, 1983 Andrea Gallo, Giovanni Massari, Finale, Melograno edizioni, 1987 Andrea Gallo, Finale, 1200 vie di arrampicata, Melograno edizioni, 1990 Andrea Gallo, Finale, 1500 vie di arrampicata, Idee verticali edizioni, 1994 ALP arrampicata, Monografie: il Finalese, 30 anni di passione, Torino, Vivalda Editori, mensile anno XIII, numero 162, ottobre 1998 Andrea Gallo, Finale Y2K, Idee verticali edizioni, 2000 Marco “Thomas” Tomassini, Finale by Thomas, Un viaggio tra le vie del Finalese che più amo, passo per passo, metro per metro, Le Mani Edizioni, 2007 Andrea Gallo, Finale 007, Idee verticali edizioni, 2008

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Introduction

BIRDS OF PREY Climbers from all over the world know the Finale area as a simply amazing place, with a unique limestone rock, and endless paths and climbing routes that have become part of the history of climbing. The rock in Finale, where climbers live out their vertical passion, is the result of long geological and environmental processes that have transformed the current landscape of Finale making it rich in plateaus, valleys of varying widths, vertical rock walls, hills and caves: a natural environment that is still for the most part intact, inhabited by many animal and plant species, that today represents the biggest and most extensive biodiversity related to a coastal environment in the whole of Liguria. In fact it is possible to find native flowers (in particular the well known Campanula Isophylla) and examples of fauna that are of great naturalistic interest like the ocellated lizard, the peregrine falcon and the eagle owl. To these should be added the important archaeological remains left by pre-historic man, by the Romans and by our medieval ancestors, that give the area not only an environmental but also a cultural and historical importance. This beautiful area however is fragile and vulnerable and to be maintained intact for future generations suitable forms of protection need to be taken. In fact, even if walking along footpaths and climbing are amazing activities, they are even more so if the territory in which they take place is respected by those who use it. In 1994, after an agreement reached between climbers, the WWF and LIPU, the Province of Savona identified several areas and climbing crags where climbing is prohibited to allow birds of prey to nest. There are very few areas in the rest of the world where it is possible to climb in the same area where falcons and eagle owls nest, and for Finale this is an essential quality that goes over and above the idea of bolting a crag at all costs to the detriment of rare and protected species. In Finale, the outdoor environment is an important tourist resource, but this must not become harmful to the territory. We are convinced that people who are truly passionate about the outdoor environment and climbing are aware of the value and potential of such a rare and unique environment, and are able to maintain an equilibrium with the nature that surrounds them. CLIMBING AND RESPECT! 1) RESPECT FOR THE ENVIRONMENT Do not leave rubbish at the crags or on paths. If you smoke, do not leave your cigarette butts behind. If you have to go to the bathroom bury it, away from paths and crags and do not leave tissue paper lying around everywhere. Respect the animals and plants and remember that lighting fires is prohibited. 2) RESPECT FOR OTHERS The crags are for everyone, do not monopolise routes. If you are top roping use your own gear to avoid wear and tear on the belay. Avoid scattering your things all over the place. It is not necessary to let the whole valley know if you have succeeded on a pitch or not, so unless it is an emergency keep the volume down. 3) RESPECT FOR THE ROCK It is your fingers that must adapt themselves to the rock and not the other way round, chipping holds or modifying routes is prohibited. If you mark holds with chalk, clean it off after you’ve finished.

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Falco Pellegrino (Š Carlo Lovisolo) www.fotostudiolovisolo.com

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Index and topos Introduction by the author . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Technical introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Birds of Prey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 ARENE CANDIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 1 Cava di Rio Fine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 2 Il Cimitero . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 3 Pietra del Sole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 4 Canazei . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 5 Pasifal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 6 Orizzonte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 7 Falesia delle Cento Corde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42 VALLE PORA (FINALBORGO) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 8 Rocce dell’Orera - Settore Destro . . . . . . . . . . 50 9 Rocce dell’Orera - Settore Sinistro . . . . . . . . . 54 10 Paretina di Finalborgo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 ROCCA DI PERTI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 11 Parete delle gemme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 12 Placca dell’oasi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 13 Settore delle ombre blu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82 14 Scimmiodromo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 15 Placca del gibbone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 16 Placca Piotti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 17 Pancia dell’elefante . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 18 Testa dell’elefante . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 19 Grottino di Perti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110 20 L’Olimpo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112 21 Falesia degli Dèi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114 22 Settore centrale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 23 Il giardino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126 24 Falesia dei tre porcellini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130 25 La cengia degli androidi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 26 Settore settentrionale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 27 Falesia della Lucertola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 28 Falesia del Gabbiano . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 154 29 Falesia del Suonatore Jones . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 30 Perti - Versante nord . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 31 Grottino del Bric della Croce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 32 Grotto di Perti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174 33 Tigrotto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 ROCCA CARPANEA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 34 Terzo livello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 35 Placca delle Case Valle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 36 Zambaland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196

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37 Le rovine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 38 Grotta di Sant’Antonino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 39 Bric Scimarco - Antri Rossi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 40 Bric Scimarco Superiore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 41 Bric Scimarco Inferiore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 42 Parete dimenticata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214 43 Grotta dell’edera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 44 Placca d’angolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 45 Lo specchio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 46 I coralli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 47 Falesia della Lumaca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 48 Monte Sordo - Settore Centrale . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 49 La Boulangerie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 50 La Gourmanderie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 51 Placca - Pilastro di Mu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240 52 Alveare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 53 Le tecchie . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250 54 Falesia dello Scorpione . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 55 Pilastrino mirovino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 56 Grotta della Pollera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 57 Paretina di Avatar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 58 Scoglio di Avalon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266 59 Paretina di Pian Marino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 60 Bric del Frate settore Ovest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272 61 Falesia del Riccio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 VALLE AQUILA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 62 Bric del Frate settore destro Nord . . . . . . . . . 290 63 Bric del Frate settore Centrale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 64 Bric del Frate settore Sinistro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 65 Caffettiera . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 298 66 Parete dell'Aquila . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 67 Kattedrale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 68 Sakrestia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 312 69 Konvento . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 70 Bric Grigio settore il Grottino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 71 Bric Grigio settore Destro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 72 Tibet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322 73 Bric Grigio settore Sinistro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 74 Bric Grigio settore Placca Inferiore . . . . . . . . . 328 75 Bric Grigio settore Placca Superiore . . . . . . . 332 76 Falesia del Serpente . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 77 Tre Frati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 78 Falesia del Priore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 340 79 Falesia della Coccinella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344


80 Il Sasso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348 81 Falesia della Pulce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 82 Attico . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 83 Falesia del Gorilla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 358 84 Superpanza . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362 85 Placca dei maleducati . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370 86 Bric Pianarella - Monotiri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378 87 Bric Pianarella - Paretone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380 88 Bric Pianarella settore Altro Livello . . . . . . . . 404 89 La Mansarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408 90 I Missili . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 412 MONTE CUCCO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 414 91 Cucco 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 420 92 Grottone (l'Arca) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 422 93 Monte Cucco - settore Orientale . . . . . . . . . . . 426 94 La torre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 428 95 Settore Primi e Secondi passi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 432 96 Monte Cucco - settore Centrale . . . . . . . . . . . . 434 97 Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 440 98 Anfiteatro (Fenia) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 444 99 Piccolo Canyon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 450 100 Campanile e Placca del Polpaccio . . . . . . . . . 452 101 Sahara Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 456 102 Settore Machetto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 462 VALLE DI RIAN CORNEI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 466 103 Un domani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 478 104 Buridda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 480 105 Falesia dell’invidia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 482 106 Pasticceria del bosco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 484 107 Italsider settore Inferiore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 486 108 Italsider settore Superiore (Acciaieria) . . 490 109 Placca Nevruz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 492 110 Falesia del Castagno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 494 111 Falesia del Bruco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 496 112 Falesia del Falco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 498 113 Ciappo delle Conche - Superiore . . . . . . . . . 500 114 Ciappo delle Conche - Inferiore . . . . . . . . . . . 504 115 Falesia degli amici . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 508 116 Omo Ora settore Basso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 510 117 Omo Ora settore Alto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 512 118 Bocca di Bacco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 514 119 Placca Graziella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 516 120 Falesia del Ragno . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 518 121 Falesia del Delfino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 520 122 Falesia del Gufo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 522 123 Gola dei briganti - settore Inferiore . . . . . . . . 524 124 Gola dei briganti - settore Superiore . . . . . . 528 125 Falesia della Formica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 534

126 La goletta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 536 127 Cortometraggio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 538 128 La Consolle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 540 129 Ronchiadilly Circus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 542 130 Dimenticatoio 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 546 131 Dimenticatoio 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 548 132 Avancorpo della placconata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 550 133 Placconata centrale di Rian Cornei . . . . . . . . 552 134 Falesia dell’eco Superiore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 558 135 Falesia dell’eco Inferiore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 562 136 Falesia della Tranquillità . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 568 137 Falesia del Guru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 572 138 Camelot 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 576 139 Camelot 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 580 140 Falesia dell’Orso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 584 141 Falesia di Parsifal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 588 142 Falesia del Nirvana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 590 143 Cordon bleu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 592 144 Antro delle Streghe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 602 145 Falesia del Corvo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 610 146 Falesia del silenzio Superiore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 612 147 Falesia del silenzio Inferiore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 616 148 Striature Obese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 622 149 Tempio del Vento . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 626 150 Falesia del Cinghiale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 632 151 Falesia della Volpe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 636 152 Falesia del Lupo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 638 153 Falesia del Geko . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 642 BORAGNI E VALLE DI NAVA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 644 154 Avancorpo di Boragni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 650 155 Il pilastro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 656 156 Skarafonia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 662 157 Sasso Scorpion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 664 158 Sasso Crazy Brothers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 666 159 Bastionata sinistra Boragni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 670 160 Bastionata centrale Boragni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 680 161 Bastionata destra Boragni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 682 162 Strapatente settore Sinistro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 688 163 Strapatente settore Gocce Doc . . . . . . . . . . 690 164 Grotta della Strapatente . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 692 165 Domus aurea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 696 166 Estathe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 700 167 Il vascello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 702 168 Falesia della Luna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 706 169 Falesia del Sole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 708 170 Grotta dei Pipistrelli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 712

11


VALLE SCIUSA E VAL PONCI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 714 171 Lacremà settore Basso . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 720 172 Lacremà settore Alto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 724 173 Lacremà settore La Nuvola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 726 174 Bric Reseghe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 728 175 Casa del Vacchè . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 738 176 Rocca di Corno - Ghiro (est) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 742 177 Rocca di Corno - Futura (est) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 746 178 Rocca di Corno settore Sud-Est . . . . . . . . . . . 750 179 Rocca di Corno settore Sud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 754 180 Rocca di Corno - Zona Rossa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 760 181 Rocca di Corno settore Ovest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 764 182 Rocca degli Uccelli - Cresta degli uccelli . . . 768 183 Rocca degli Uccelli - Avancorpo . . . . . . . . . . . . 770 184 Rocca degli Uccelli - Parete Principale . . . . . 772 ALTOPIANO DELLE MÀNIE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 778 185 Museo dell’uomo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 782 186 Monolocale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 784 187 Mesa verde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 788 188 Falesia della Gazzella . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 790 CAPO NOLI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 792 189 Dancing dalle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 796 190 Easy dalle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 800 191 Primo e secondo Pilastro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 802 192 Nolitudine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 806

THE PROTAGONISTS Andrea Gallo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Gerardo "Gerry" Fornaro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 Luciano Pizzorni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 "IL VECCHIO" Alessandro Grillo . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Marco Pukli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Renato Berruti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Marco Zambarino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Luca Lenti . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286 Lodovico Spiota . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 Alessandro Grillo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418 Gianni Duregato, Matteo Caropreso . . . . . . 419 Fulvio Balbi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476 Andrea Costaguta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 476 Matteo "Donde" Felanda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 648 Giorgio Delfino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 718

12


13


Orco

A10

FEGLINO

BORAGNI E VALLE DI NAVA. 644 MONTE CUCCO. 414

ROCCA CARPANEA. 182

Boragni

VALLE DI RIAN CORNEI. 466

Calice ligure

VALLE AQUILA. 280 A10

Lacremà Calvisio

Verzi

VALLE SCIUSA E VAL PONCI. 714

San Bernardino

ROCCA DI PERTI. 60

FINALBORGO

Finalpia

VALLE PORA. 46

FINALMARINA

BORGIO VEREZZI 14

ARENE CANDIDE. 24


A10

SPOTORNO

ALTIPIANO DELLE MÀNIE. 778

NOLI

Mànie

CAPO NOLI. 792

VARIGOTTI

15


Exposure of crags

EAST

NORTH

16

AVANCORPO DI BORAGNI BASTIONATA CENTRALE BORAGNI (needs re-bolting) BASTIONATA DESTRA BORAGNI BASTIONATA SINISTRA BORAGNI BRIC DEL FRATE SETTORE CENTRALE (needs re-bolting) BRIC DEL FRATE SETTORE SINISTRO (needs re-bolting) BRIC GRIGIO SETTORE DESTRO BRIC GRIGIO SETTORE IL GROTTINO BRIC GRIGIO SETTORE PLACCA INFERIORE BRIC GRIGIO SETTORE PLACCA SUPERIORE (needs re-bolting) BRIC GRIGIO SETTORE SINISTRO BRIC RESEGHE BRIC SCIMARCO SETTORE INFERIORE BRIC SCIMARCO SETTORE SUPERIORE BURIDDA CAFFETTIERA EASY DALLE (CAPO NOLI) FALESIA DEGLI AMICI FALESIA DEL BRUCO FALESIA DEL CINGHIALE FALESIA DEL FALCO FALESIA DEL GEKO FALESIA DEL LUPO FALESIA DEL SOLE FALESIA DELLA FORMICA

FALESIA DELLA LUNA FALESIA DELLA VOLPE FALESIA DELL’INVIDIA GROTTA DELLA STRAPATENTE (BORAGNI) IL PILASTRO (BORAGNI) ITALSIDER SETTORE INFERIORE ITALSIDER SETTORE SUPERIORE (ACCIAIERIA) KATTEDRALE KONVENTO(needs re-bolting) LACREMÀ SETTORE ALTO (needs re-bolting) LACREMÀ SETTORE BASSO LACREMÀ SETTORE LA NUVOLA LE ROVINE MESA VERDE NOLITUDINE (CAPO NOLI) PARETE DELL’AQUILA PASTICCERIA DEL BOSCO PLACCA NEVRUZ ROCCA DI CORNO SETTORE DEL GHIRO ROCCA DI CORNO SETTORE FUTURA SAKRESTIA STRAPATENTE SETTORE GOCCE DOC STRAPATENTE SETTORE SINISTRO (needs re-bolting) TERZO LIVELLO TRE FRATI UN DOMANI ZAMBALAND

BOCCA DI BACCO BRIC DEL FRATE SETTORE DESTRO NORD (needs re-bolting) CORTOMETRAGGIO DIMENTICATOIO 1 (needs re-bolting) DIMENTICATOIO 2 (needs re-bolting) ESTATHE FALESIA DEL CASTAGNO (needs re-bolting) FALESIA DEL SUONATORE JONES (ROCCA DI PERTI) GOLA DEI BRIGANTI INFERIORE GROTTA DEI PIPISTRELLI GROTTA DELL’EDERA GROTTA DI SANT’ANTONINO GROTTINO DEL BRIC DELLA CROCE (ROCCA DI PERTI) GROTTO DI PERTI (ROCCA DI PERTI) I MISSILI

IL VASCELLO LA GOLETTA MONTE CUCCO SETTORE PRIMI E SECONDI PASSI OMO ORA SETTORE ALTO (needs re-bolting) OMO ORA SETTORE BASSO (needs re-bolting) PLACCA GRAZIELLA ROCCA DEGLI UCCELLI PARETE PRINCIPALE ROCCA DEGLI UCCELLI SETTORE AVANCORPO (needs re-bolting) ROCCE DELL’ORERA SETTORE DESTRO ROCCE DELL’ORERA SETTORE SINISTRO RONCHIADILLY CIRCUS SASSO CRAZY BROTHERS (BORAGNI) TIBET TIGROTTO (ROCCA DI PERTI) VERSANTE NORD DI PERTI (ROCCA DI PERTI)


Pic: Klaus Fengler

YOUR MOUNTAINSHOP A FINALE LIGURE

Via Nicotera, 4 17024 Finale Ligure Borgo /SalewaMountainShopFinaleLigure salewa.it

17


Exposure of crags

WEST

SOUTH

18

ALVEARE ANTRO DELLE STREGHE ATTICO AVANCORPO DELLA PLACCONATA CENTRALE DI RIAN CORNEI BRIC DEL FRATE SETTORE OVEST BRIC PIANARELLA SETTORE ALTRO LIVELLO BRIC PIANARELLA SETTORE MONOTIRI BRIC PIANARELLA SETTORE PARETONE CAMELOT 1 CAMELOT 2 CASA DEL VACCHÈ (needs re-bolting) CORDON BLEU (PLACCONATA SETTORE SINISTRO DI RIAN CORNEI) FALESIA DEGLI DÈI (ROCCA DI PERTI) FALESIA DEI TRE PORCELLINI (ROCCA DI PERTI) FALESIA DEL CORVO FALESIA DEL GABBIANO (ROCCA DI PERTI) FALESIA DEL GORILLA FALESIA DEL GURU FALESIA DEL NIRVANA FALESIA DEL RICCIO FALESIA DELLA LUCERTOLA (ROCCA DI PERTI) FALESIA DELLA PULCE FALESIA DELLA TRANQUILLITÀ FALESIA DELL’ECO SETTORE INFERIORE FALESIA DELL’ECO SETTORE SUPERIORE FALESIA DELL’ORSO FALESIA DI PARSIFAL GOLA DEI BRIGANTI SUPERIORE GROTTA DELLA POLLERA GROTTINO DI PERTI (ROCCA DI PERTI) I CORALLI IL GIARDINO (ROCCA DI PERTI) IL SASSO LA BOULANGERIE LA CENGIA DEGLI ANDROIDI (ROCCA DI PERTI) LA MANSARDA LA PARETINA DI AVATAR LE TECCHIE LO SPECCHIO L’OLIMPO (ROCCA DI PERTI)

MONTE CUCCO ANFITEATRO (FENIA) MONTE CUCCO CAMPANILE E PLACCA DEL POLPACCIO MONTE CUCCO CANYON (needs re-bolting) MONTE CUCCO SETTORE CENTRALE MONTE CUCCO CUCCO 2 MONTE CUCCO GROTTONE (L’ARCA) MONTE CUCCO LA TORRE MONTE CUCCO SETTORE MACHETTO MONTE CUCCO SETTORE ORIENTALE MONTE CUCCO PICCOLO CANYON (needs re-bolting) MONTE CUCCO SAHARA WALL MONTE SORDO SETTORE CENTRALE PANCIA DELL’ELEFANTE (ROCCA DI PERTI) PARETE DELLE GEMME (ROCCA DI PERTI) PARETE DIMENTICATA PARETINA DI PIAN MARINO PILASTRINO MIROVINO PLACCA D’ANGOLO PLACCA DEI MALEDUCATI PLACCA DEL GIBBONE (ROCCA DI PERTI) PLACCA DELLE CASE VALLE PLACCA DELL’OASI (ROCCA DI PERTI) PLACCA E PILASTRO DI MU PLACCA PIOTTI (ROCCA DI PERTI) PLACCONATA CENTRALE DI RIAN CORNEI ROCCA DEGLI UCCELLI SETTORE CRESTA DEGLI UCCELLI (needs re-bolting) ROCCA DI CORNO SETTORE OVEST ROCCA DI CORNO SETTORE ZONA ROSSA SASSO SCORPION (BORAGNI) SCIMMIODROMO SCOGLIO DI AVALON SETTORE CENTRALE DI PERTI (ROCCA DI PERTI) SETTORE DELLE OMBRE BLU (ROCCA DI PERTI) SETTORE SETTENTRIONALE DI PERTI (ROCCA DI PERTI) SKARAFONIA (BORAGNI) SUPERPANZA TESTA DELL’ELEFANTE (ROCCA DI PERTI)

BRIC SCIMARCO SETTORE ANTRI ROSSI CANAZEI (needs re-bolting) CAVA DI RIO FINE CIAPPO DELLE CONCHE SETTORE INFERIORE (URNA) CIAPPO DELLE CONCHE SETTORE SUPERIORE DANCING DALLE (CAPO NOLI) DOMUS AUREA (GROTTA DEI BALCONI) FALESIA DEL DELFINO FALESIA DEL GUFO FALESIA DEL PRIORE FALESIA DEL RAGNO FALESIA DEL SERPENTE FALESIA DEL SILENZIO SETTORE INFERIORE FALESIA DEL SILENZIO SETTORE SUPERIORE FALESIA DELLA COCCINELLA FALESIA DELLA GAZZELLA FALESIA DELLA LUMACA

FALESIA DELLE CENTO CORDE FALESIA DELLO SCORPIONE I PILASTRI (PRIMO E SECONDO PILASTRO) (CAPO NOLI) IL CIMITERO LA CONSOLLE LA GOURMANDERIE MONOLOCALE MUSEO DELL’UOMO ORIZZONTE (needs re-bolting) PARETINA DI FINALBORGO PARSIFAL (needs re-bolting) PIETRA DEL SOLE (needs re-bolting) ROCCA DI CORNO SETTORE SUD ROCCA DI CORNO SETTORE SUD-EST STRIATURE OBESE TEMPIO DEL VENTO


UNITED BY A SHARED PASSION True classics never age. They are immortal. Mammut is paying tribute to some climbing milestones with famous multi-pitch routes. Classics that have been challenging climbers for generations and which have lost nothing of their fascination. Follow the ascents up close with Mammut Pro Team athletes such as ANNA STĂ–HR and MIRKO CABALLERO at: www.mammut.ch â „ rockclimbing


Redpoint (8a – 8c+) 20

8c+ 8c+

COCK-TAIL DINGO

Grotto di Perti Alveare

Gianni Duregato Stefano Ghisolfi

2007 2016

8c SILENZIO TOTALE SENZA CHIEDERE PERMESSO UNIVERSO PROIBITO ROSEMATIX 8c U BECCU 8c CUCCO COME UNA BESTIA 8c DISORDER 8c STRADE PERDUTE 8c CINGHIALOTTO SCATENATO

Grotto di Perti I missili I missili Monolocale Rocca degli Uccelli Parete principale Monte Cucco grottone (L'arca) Bric Grigio Il grottino Italsider settore superiore (Acciaieria) Bric Pianarella settore Altro livello

Gianni Duregato Luca Lenti Luca Lenti Gianni Duregato

2008 2000 1999 2007

Matteo Gambaro

2013

Lorenzo Fornaro Lorenzo Fornaro

2016 2016

Lorenzo Fornaro

2016

Sebastian Bush

2017

8b+ URKA (CATMAKER) (Rotkeirs) OMBRA TRANS CABONI MESSER WOLF BIRBO NON PENSARCI DUE VOLTE ROBIN HOOD EN ATTENDANT BERHAULT NAZGÛL BIGNAMIKA 8b+ CUCCO AL MASSIMO

Museo dell’uomo Scimmiodromo Grotto di Perti Bric Grigio Il grottino I missili I missili Cucco Grottone Grotta della Strapatente Il vascello Cucco 2 Monte Cucco grottone (L'arca)

Klem Loskot Andrea Gallo Andrea Gallo Guido Cortese Luca Lenti Luca Lenti Gianni Duregato Christian Brenna Gianni Duregato Gianni Duregato

8b MOSS KIITOS HUECA SOLO (L2) …POI CAPACE CABONI SESI… GEI CANTASA MANI PRECISE TZUNAMI HYAENA FUGA DA BERLINO BELGARATH WOLF NON È VERO MA CI CREDO BARBAGIANNI THE WALL BLOCK TROTTER CUCCO IN ALTO (L1) LECCA LECCA PASSANDO PER VIENNA FURORE AVADA KEDAVRA 8b SOGNANDO RONCHIADILLY 8b THE WRONG HOLE 8b DIRETTA SUPER CYCLISME 8b GIÙ LA TESTA

Monolocale Settore Centrale di Perti Il giardino superiore Grotto di Perti Tigrotto Parete dimenticata Alveare Falesia delle tecchie Bric Grigio Il grottino Bric Grigio Il grottino I missili Superpanza Monte Cucco Grottone Monte Cucco Grottone Monte Cucco Grottone Monte Cucco Grottone Monte Cucco Orientale Il vascello Il vascello Ronchiadilly circus Bric Pianarella settore Altro livello Monte Cucco Canyon Italsider settore superiore (Acciaieria)

Gianni Duregato Andrea Gallo Andrea Gallo Andrea Gallo Gianni Duregato Gianni Duregato Andrea Gallo Gianni Duregato Guido Cortese Gianni Duregato Luca Lenti Gianni Duregato Gianni Duregato Gianni Duregato Gianni Duregato Matteo Caropreso Luca Lenti Filippo Larceri Guido Cortese Matteo Caropreso

Lorenzo Fornaro

1988

2000 2000 2010 2003 2008

2016

2008 2010 1986 2000 2006 2000 2010 2010 2010 2010 2011 1996

2014

Sebastian Bush Luca Lenti

2016 1994

Lorenzo Fornaro

2016


8b RE DI CHIA 8b L’URLO 8b L’URLO DI MARIO

Monte Cucco grottone (L'arca) Ronchiadilly circus Ronchiadilly circus

8a+ NU’ CASE SENZA CRAZY (Senza Tabù + Crazy Mix) ARIAL BOMBAY PER FORTUNA CI SEI TU VAI AVANTI TU CHE MI VIENE DA RIDERE LA PIÙ BELLA DEL REAME IO SONO PRONTO (L2) GATTOLARDO JAMIN-A BRAILLE DI PIÙ SPAZZOLAMI EQUILIBRI IMPOSSIBILI 8a+ QUARANTASEI RUGGENTI 8a+ FIGLIO DI MARIA 8a+ A NOVANTA 8a+ DA BERLINO NON SI SCAPPA 8a+ VIAGGIO A KALYOBIYA 8a+ LASCIATI ANDARE 8a+ LA RETORICA

Sasso Crazy brothers Sasso Crazy brothers Parete dimenticata Alveare Grotta della Pollera I missili Monte Cucco Grottone Monte Cucco Grottone Monte Cucco La torre Gola dei briganti inf. Striature obese Estathe Lacremà settore basso Avan. Rocca degli Uccelli Ronchiadilly circus Ronchiadilly circus Ronchiadilly circus Le tecchie Grotta dell'edera Italsider settore superiore (Acciaieria) Falesia dell'invidia

8a SIMON&ELIAS

Bric Reseghe settore Simon&Elias

Lorenzo Fornaro Sebastian Bush Sebastian Bush Guido Cortese Gianni Duregato Gianni Duregato Andrea Gallo Gianni Duregato Luca Lenti Gianni Duregato Matteo Caropreso Guido Cortese Andrea Gallo Luca Lenti Klem Loskot Luca Lenti Luca Lenti Matteo Caropreso Sebastian Bush Sebastian Bush Sebastian Bush Lorenzo Fornaro

2016 2015 2014

2010 2010 2000 2010 2011

1994 1996 1997 2014 2015 2015 2014 2016

Sebastian Bush Dimitri Frascio

2016 2012

Davide Carena

2016

21


LEGENDA Beauty

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Wonderful

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Very good

Bolting

ÙÙÙÙ

Excellent

ÙÙÙ

Good

ÙÙ

ÙÙ

Good

Be careful!

Ù

Not very good

Ù

Uncomfortable

ÙÙ

Ù

Low

ÙÙ

Medium

ÙÙÙ

High

ÙÙÙÙ

Ù

Help!

Comfort

Number of climbers

Crowded

Parking

qrcode Carpark

Ù

Difficult

ÙÙ

Uneven

OK

ÙÙÙ

ÙÙÙ

Comfortable

qrcode crag approaches

Good

ÙÙÙÙ

Excellent

qrcode videos

Dangerous crag

22


23


03

Arene Candide > N44 09.867 E8 19.613

PIETRA DEL SOLE 230 m

Bolted at the beginning of the ’90s by various different people, the Pietra del Sole crag is one of the most interesting in this group both from the point of view of the surrounding area as well as the climbing. There are both vertical routes and roofs; unfortunately the bolting, which is still the original, means that climbing here is not safe and therefore not recommended. In the rain it is possible to take shelter beneath the pronounced roof on the right hand side of the crag.

altitude

SOUTH orientation

 beauty

APPROACH From the Arene Candide carpark 3 (see approach to the crags in the Arene Candide group) follow the waymarks “one empty red circle” for 115 meters until an obvious junction where you turn to the right (Junction 1 Cava). After 12 meters there is another junction (Junction 2 Cava, GPS N44 09.787 E8 19.389) where you go up to the left for 110 meters. At the next junction (Junction 1 Cimitero) continue straight on. After 27 meters there is another turning on the left that climbs steeply near a small clearing with a small rock/earth wall with horizontal fractures. Continue straight on for 23 meters coming to another turning on the left (Junction 1 Canazei) where you leave the main dirt track. Take this path first downhill and then flat walking across boulders, making a wide turn to the left in a dip between the vegetation and then going steeply uphill along an outcrop of rock and earth. After 25 meters go up a path for 77 meters until reaching another turning (Junction 2 Canazei) situated on a level section of path near a small dry stone wall. Ignore the path that goes to the right on the level and go up to the left for a farther 75 meters along sections of broken up rock. Reaching the last turning (Junction 3 Canazei/Pietra del sole) which is difficult to see but that can be recognised by some nearby rocks and the fact that there is an iron pylon directly in line with the turning. Continue for 130 meters going up to the right, initially on a rocky path and then up rocky steps (following the line of the electricity cables almost all the way to the crag) and coming to the left hand end of this sector. The path from the Arene Candide carpark 3 to the Pietra del Sole crag is 694 meters long and takes about 20 minutes to walk.

equipment



number of visitors

 comfort

 parking

20 min

approach time

Yes - No

beginners school

Yes - No

possible when raining

Yes - No fit for family

Yes - No multi-pitch

Yes - No signal

17 6 1 1

2

1

3

2

1

<5a 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

32


1. AZZO LA MARINA 6a 15m Old bolt hangers; vertical wall 2. MM 6a+ 15m Equipped with glued bolts; vertical start on tufa, exits on roof 3. SERA CENO 6a 15m Not bolted! Corner 4. GIOCO ASTUTO 6a+ 15m Equipped with glued bolts; starts on a slab, vertical then bulge 5. BEL AIR 6b 15m Old bolt hangers; slab with pockets with small roof to finish 6. ROBERTA LO SPIT DEI 20 ANNI 6a+ 8m Old bolt hangers; very featured then corner 7. LA CHIAVE 6b 8m Old bolt hangers, belay on tree! Pockets then bulge and roof 8. LUNA PIENA 5b 9m Old bolt hangers; slab with pockets, then becomes vertical 9. IL MOZZO 4b 8m Old bolt hangers; slab, goes diagonally a bit left 10. AZIMUT 5a 10m First protection is sling on thread then home made bolt hangers, belay o n chain passed through thread! Slab with pockets 11. I PIRAMIDALI DI CHEOPE 6a 10m Old bolt hangers; slab, goes diagonally a bit left 12. PASSAGEL 5b 9m Old bolt hangers; tiny roof, wall with small pockets and water drops, exits going diagonally slightly right The ledge finishes here and the crag continues on the other side of the buttress. To reach the remaining routes descend 40 meters near the route Roberta lo spit dei 20 anni and then continue to the left going back up in the last section. There is a single route here: 13. DALAI LAMA 5c 10m

Old bolt hangers; slab with small pockets, vertical wall and slab again

Continuing farther and going up steeply for about 12 meters there are the following routes: 14. POSE INESPLOSE 6b+ 10m 15. POLVERE DI SOGNO 7b 10m 16. SENZA NOME ? 10m 17. TILLERMAN 7b 10m

Old bolt hangers on expansion bolts; overhang on red rock, honeycombed, and exit on the arĂŞte to the left of the roof Old bolt hangers on expansion bolts; pronounced roof and exit on overhang Old bolt hangers; starts on eroded red section and after a large hole climbs a roof following a crack Old bolt hangers on expansion bolts; easy mantle to start on ledge, then continues on roof with small pockets

33


34

1

6a

3

Carpark Arene Candide

2

6a+

6a

4

6a+

5

6b

6

6a+

7

6b

8

5b

9

4b

10

5a

11

6a

12

5b

13

5c

14

6b+

7b

15

16

?

17

PIETRA DEL SOLE

7b

Arene Candideâ&#x20AC;&#x192; Pietra del Sole

03


Crazy Store Finalborgo - Via Nicotera, 38

35


09 Rocce dell’Orera  Rocce dell’Orera - settore sinistro

13. ZANZIBAR P1 5b 14m Starts on a slab with sequence on pockets, then becomes less steep; satisfying route on good holds but never trivial P2 5b 20m Nice pillar, follows a featured wall on positive pockets; belay on boulder in wood, it is possible to link the two pitches 14. TROCADERO 5b 15m Small pillar, the first 5 meters are superb, then becomes less steep with climbing on large holds 15. DURBEGA 5c 16m Slab, initially leaning on good holds, then vertical with strenuous exit

ROCCE DELL’ORERA SETTORE SINISTRO

4c 4c 5b

6a+

5b

6a

5c

6a

6a

4c

7 5b

5b

9

15

7a

5b

12

11 10

14 13 Carpark Verezzi

56

5a

8

6 5c 4b

4 4a

6a

5

3

2

5a

1 Right Hand Sector


Dani Fuertes, Rodellar, Spain camera Javi Pec

Discover our products for sport climbing and mountaineering: www.climbingtechnology.com


84 Valle Aquilaâ&#x20AC;&#x192;Superpanza 368

25. RAIEU 7a+ 35m Slab, vertical wall with good holds, strenuous boulder move with long move on sidepull from one edge to another half way and boulder to exit 26. TIP TAP PER GIOVANNA 6b 20m Technical slab with pockets 27. OGGI SPINGO 7a 15m (2nd pitch) Continues from the belay of the preceding route, sustained with difficult final move where need to move well 28. LE SPALLE DI BAT + SENZA DINDA 7a+ 35m Powerful move halfway and another just before the belay 29. LEGATI PER LA VITA 5c 15m Curious small roof with mantle, then easy slab


30. BAOBAB PRET A PORTER 7b+ 20m (2nd pitch) Starts from the belay of Legati per la vita, difficult single on small sloping edges for crux at two thirds at the third from last bolt 31. FOCA RIDENS 6b+ 15m (2nd pitch) vertical wall with good holds 32. VINAVIL 6a 28m Difficult start, slab and bulge, continues on leaning slab with mantle on small roof 33. PHOTOSHOP 6a 28m Difficult start on bulge, then slab and bulge, crack on slightly leaning slab, slab with flakes and good holds until the belay 34. STAR TREK 6b+ 26m Difficult start on slab, then bulge and slab with hard fingery single (long and dangerous clip) continues on slab

Superpanza (Š M. Tomassini)

369


147

Rian Cornei > N44 12.563 E8 20.778

FALESIA DEL SILENZIO INFERIORE 270 m

An extensive band of rock (195 meters), with a height that varies from 13 to 27 meters, the Silenzio Crag lower sector is definitely an icon for local climbers at least as much as Monte Cucco; the overhangs in this sector have been climbed so often to make them in some cases so polished that they are like marble. The only routes that have been saved are those that have not been re-bolted for a long time and are therefore climbed less frequently. The left hand part, bolted more recently, offers routes that are more vertical or on slabs on much less polished rock with routes on average easier than the overhangs. In any case, both for its position and for the routes, this wall is worth a visit. It also seems that this crag was the first in the Finale area to be reequipped with glued bolts. The Silenzio Crag lower sector currently offers 40 routes that go from technical slabs to strenuous overhangs. The crag was given this name at the end of the ‘80s by Fulvio Balbi, Guido Grappiolo and Carlo Voena, who discovered it, because of the silence that reigned at the time at this crag. Very popular in the winter months, given its orientation, and with very few visitors when it is hot as it is basically un-climbable. The crag was re-styled by Andrea Costaguta and Marco Thomas Tomassini in May 2014, adding several new routes and replacing all the belays. The bolts for the new routes were offered by the editing house Versante Sud with the initiative Book for Bolts.

altitude

SOUTHWEST orientation

ÙÙÙÙ beauty

ÙÙÙÙ equipment

ÙÙÙÙ number of visitors

ÙÙÙ comfort

ÙÙÙ parking

30 min

approach time

Yes - No

beginners school

Yes - No

possible when raining

Yes - No fit for family

Yes - No multi-pitch

Yes - No signal

13

45

15

7 4 1

3

2

<5a 5a 5b 5c 6a 6b 6c 7a 7b 7c 8a 8b 8c 9a ?

616

APPROACH From the Orco car park (see the general approach for the crags at the Orco church end of the Rian Cornei Valley), go up towards the Orco cemetery following the tarred road for 60 meters (the way mark of “two vertical lines and a red triangle” are already visible on the stone wall). At the fork, continue straight on up the dirt road that then becomes level, following the same way marks for 310 meters. There is a path that goes down to the right near a ball shaped wooden sign. Do not take it but continue straight on for a farther 110 meters until a characteristic stone construction, with an arched roof, situated on the left behind the fence. Continuing for a farther 70 meters slightly downhill. Immediately after an obvious groove in the rock that you walk on going down, on the right hand side of the path, a path goes up to the right. Take this turning that climbs up to start with and then becomes level or downhill for the next 295 meters until reaching a small cave situated on the left of the path. At this point a trail goes off to the right leading to the crag Antro delle Streghe. Continue straight on for 250 meters coming to a level section with a panoramic view point on a rock that juts out. Continue for farther 290 meters until reaching a fork in the path (Junction Silenzio Crags upper/lower, GPS N44 12.686 E8 20.772). Go to the right following briefly the path that goes down and shortly reaches a rock step.


After 10 meters there is a path that goes off to the right, signed with a red mark on a tree that leads to the crag Falesia del Corvo. Do not take this path and continue straight on for another 83 meters until a junction. Continuing straight on you come to a series of iron steps glued into to the rock that leads to the Falesia del Silenzio lower sector but it is better to go to the right. Going to the right there is a 5 meter long fixed rope after 16 meters. Having descended this continue for 200 meters down through the woods, quite steeply in parts, and then go back up a short ramp with stepped rock (5 meters). At the top you find yourself beneath a roof, continue to the

right for 10 meters reaching the crag Silenzio lower sector. The path from the Falesia del Silenzio lower sector to the Falesia del Silenzio upper sector takes about 10 minutes. The path from the Orco car park to the Falesia del Silenzio lower sector is 1,726 meters long and takes about 30 minutes to walk.

Falesia del silenzio Inferiore, Ilaria Raboni, Fonte di Silenzio, 6c+ (Š Marco. Tomassini)

617


Laura

Rogora

Grandi gesti 9a grotta dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;arenauta Batuka 8b onsight Margalef Codigo norte 8b onsight santa linya Wallstreet 8c frankenjura (6 giro) Redbull 8c collepardo (3 giro) Grazie 8b+ flash la fortezza

Terza campionato del mondo Lead e combinata 2015-2016

Vicecampionessa europea boulder 2016

Vincitrice coppa Europa Lead e boulder 2016

Campionessa europea lead e combinata 2016

Campionessa italiana assoluta boulder 2015-2016

Campionessa italiana assoluta lead 2015

Futuro...

Pantera Soft

wildclimb.it


www.montura.it

MONTURA STORE FINALBORGO Via Nicotera, 46 17024 Finale Ligure (SV) Tel. 019 9480354 finalborgo@monturastore.it

Profile for Versante Sud srl

FINALE CLIMBING. Sports climbing and multi-pitches routes  

The second edition of Finale guidebook adds, after only 5 years, 58 crags, some new and some recovered, and it has been realised with the la...

FINALE CLIMBING. Sports climbing and multi-pitches routes  

The second edition of Finale guidebook adds, after only 5 years, 58 crags, some new and some recovered, and it has been realised with the la...