Dolomites Hard Rock by Versante Sud srl

FRANCESCO PIACENZA - SAMUELE MAZZOLINI

DOLOMITES

Hard Rock

Classic and sports climbing from 6c to 8a

First edition May 2025

ISBN 978 88 55471 69 5

All translation, reproduction, adaptation and electronic registration, either totally or partially, by any methods, are rights reserved for all countries.

Cover image Simon Gietl climbing Stigmata at Sasso della Croce © M. Mocellin

Text Samuele Mazzolini, Francesco Piacenza

Drawings and topos Samuele Mazzolini

Photos Samuele Mazzolini, Francesco Piacenza

English translation Alexandra Ercolani

Maps Tommaso Bacciocchi © Mapbox, © Open Street Map

Symbols Tommaso Bacciocchi

Layout Francesco Rioda

Printing Tipolitografia Pagani – Passirano (BS), Italy

ZERO miles

This guidebook is homegrown and locally produced

ZERO miles!

This is a “zero-miles” guidebook. It’s locally produced!

It has been compiled by local authors, who live and promote climbing in the area reviewed.

Climbers benefit from local authors:

– locals know the latest news and updates – locals don’t promote only the most “commercial” spots

– locals invest the revenues from the guidebook in equipping new crags

Local authors promote and respect their area: – they review only the spots where climbing is allowed

– they pay attention in the same way to any different spot

– they meaningfully interact with local actors

Note

Climbing is a potentially dangerous sport in which participation is entirely at your own risk. All the information in this guide has been updated based upon information at the time of publication, however it is vital to evaluate every situation yourself before placing yourself in a life threatening situation or to seek the advice of experienced and qualified individuals.

ZERO

2% of the proceeds from this guidebook are re-invested in material for re-bolting routes and crags

DOLOMITES

Hard Rock

Trad and sports climbing from 6c to 8a

FRANCESCO PIACENZA - SAMUELE MAZZOLINI

17. Croz del Giovan The shark

18. Croz del Giovan Bonobo

20. Sasso della Croce Loss lei, heb schun 104

21. Sasso della Croce Mephisto 110

22. Sasso della Croce Menhir 112

23. Sasso della Croce La Perla preziosa 116

24. Sasso della Croce Precht-Wenger 120

25. Cima Scotoni Skotonata Galactika 123

26. Cima Scotoni Can you hear me? 124

27. Sass Ciampac Rien ne va plus 134 28. Sass Ciampac La giraffa 140

29. Torre delle Mesules East Plitschka 144

30. Torre delle Mesules East Diamante 148

31. Torre delle Mesules East Dolomieu 152

32. Torre delle Mesules West Der Tod und das Mädchen 154 Dry is a state of mind 156

33. Sella’s Second Tower Fata morgana 158

34. Piz Ciavazes Parmigiano reggiano 160

35. Piz da Lech de Boè Weg durch das saxophon ......... 166 Music on the wall 170

36. Sass Pordoi, Punta de Soel Powerbank 172

TOFANA, LASTONI DI FORMIN

AND POMAGAGNON 178

37. Tofana di Rozes Sognando l’aurora 182

38. Tofana di Rozes Gilles Villeneuve 184

39. Tofana di Rozes Da Pozzo vecchio pazzo 186

40. Tofana di Rozes Compagni di merenda 190

41. Tofana di Rozes Good Bye 1999 190

42. Tofana di Rozes I gladiatori 194

43. Lastoni di Formin

Excusez-moi... la va de qua? 198

44. Lastoni di Formin Zoe 202

45. Lastoni di Formin Spiderman 204

Lastoni di Formin, a balcony over the Dolomites and one’s soul 206

46. Pomagagnon Solstizio d’estate 210 Simo‘s dream

TRE CIME DI LAVAREDO

47. Cima Grande di Lavaredo ISO 2000

48. Cima Grande di Lavaredo

Phantom der Zinne

Das Phantom der Zinne

49. Cima Ovest di Lavaredo Alpenliebe

50. Cima Piccola di Lavaredo Muro Giallo (Gelbe Mauer)

51. Cima Piccola di Lavaredo

Ötzi trifft Yeti 236

52. Cima Piccolissima di Lavaredo Da Corte Vecchino Aldo Nobile 238 A praise to climbing 242

AGORDINA VALLEY 244

53. Sasso di Toanella Libidine grigia 247

Libidine Grigia 250

Pale di San Martino ................... 252

54. Mulaz Magic line per Sofia 254

55. Mulaz Magia nera 258

Black Magic 259

56. Cima Canali Skyluke for Alex 260

Moiazza ............................. 264

57. Pala delle Masenade Sergio Arban 266

58. Cima Gianni Costantini

Non ti fidar di me se il cuor ti manca 270

Agner 276

59. P.ta Frassenè A cena col siringa 278

60. P.ta Frassenè Fernanda salta in branda 282

61. P.ta Frassenè Territorio di caccia 286

62. P.ta Frassenè Filtro magico 288

Magic filter 290

63. Spiz d’Agner Sud, P.ta Frassenè

Felicità a momenti 292

Looking for happiness… on Agner! 296

Civetta 298

64. Torre Venezia Rondò Veneziano 300

Rondò veneziano 304

65. Spallone del Bancon Angelo Tollio 306

Angelo Tollio ....................... 310

66. Torre Trieste Donnafugata 314

The invisible rope, two days on Torre Trieste 320

67. Torre Trieste Enigma 322

68. Punta Tissi Capitan Sky-Hook 326

Capitan Sky-Hook 330

69. Punta Tissi W Mexico Cabrones 332

W Mexico Cabrones 334

70. Punta Tissi Colonne d’Ercole 336

71. Torre d’Alleghe Bellenzier 342

72. Pan di Zucchero Tuyaux de Poêle 346

74. Val San Nicolò, Maerins Tuoni e fulmini

A well-executed plan B

75. Vallaccia, Torre di Mezzaluna

Giallo dream

76. Vallaccia, Torre di Mezzaluna Mururoa

Mururoa and a postponed appointment

77. Vallaccia, Piramide Armani

Il canto del cigno

The swan song

78. Vallaccia, Piramide Armani

Esiste un’altra vita

79. Vallaccia, Piramide Armani

Via dei 5 muri

80. Piz Meda Quattro tiri per quattro ricordi

81. Piz Meda Pietra Libera

82. Marmolada Invisibilis

Marmolada Verso il pescione

73. Cime d’Auta Spirit

Premises, promises and the relativity of time

Spallone del Sassolungo Ennio Morricone

General Map

A27

A28

Preface

This guidebook was written thanks to the passion of two great friends, Samuele Mazzolini and Francesco Piacenza, the “brother from Ancona”, as “Samu” likes to call him. The determining factor was that Samuele has climbed many routes in the Dolomites and after climbing every single one, right after repeating it, with precise detail he would formulate its detailed description. Samuele’s notoriety in the climbing community increased with time and by now he is known as one of the maximum experts of the Dolomites. After the compliments received by his friends and after reading his topos, the authors started thinking about formulating a guidebook which could include Samuele’s descriptions of the best routes repeated, as well as Francesco’s narrations about every route worth being remembered as a testimony to the emotions felt during the ascents. As they wrote this book, they gradually added more voices and narrations from other climbers. This combination finally led to the birth of this volume, which has the ambition of being a real “guidebook” for those who venture into the vertical climbing world of the Dolomites on routes with difficulties which range from VII+ to X on the UIAA scale. In fact, unlike other guidebooks by the same publisher, this one includes a selection of trad and trad-sports routes repeated by the authors of considerable psychological commitment given the obligatory difficulties being always very close to the maximum grade.

The authors favour free obligatory climbing, attempting to link up all the pitches on sight if possible. The feelings associated with that kind of intensity shine through in these stories. The strong advice for future repeaters is to approach the routes described in this book solidly climbing on sight on the obligatory difficulties.

There are routes of remarkable mountaineering importance with some sections characterised by loose rock and rare protections. It is for this psychological and physical effort that the authors suggest to tackle the routes with wide technical margin. This guide book does not describe the most beautiful routes of the Dolomites, but the ones that are considered to be the most deserving out of the multitude of routes repeated. For this reason many other beautiful routes which are not present here must be simply considered “not yet repeated”.

Arnaldo Piacenza

Thanks

A gigantic thank you to Francesco Piacenza, my “brother from Ancona”, friend and partner of many adventures, without whom this guide would never have been written. And without whom the mountains would have been less beautiful.

A special thank you goes to Ivo Maistrello, Diana Sbabo and Marco Davoli, who collaborated and took part in helping with the corrections. Thanks a lot you have been a precious help.

Another special thank you goes to Marco Della Nave, for the great climbs together and for the ones Francesco and I did not manage to repeat.

Thanks to Nicola Tondini, Alessandro Beber, Alessandro Baù, Mirco Grasso, Simon Gietl, Cristoph Hainz, Diego Toigo, Ivo Rabanser, Federica Mingolla, Omar Genuin and Sara Avoscan, in other words, thanks to the best climbers of the Dolomites for taking part in this guidebook with important contributions and information.

Thanks to Stefano Menegardi, Alessio Gualdo, Alex Piazzalunga, with whom I exchanged information on the routes and who immediately accepted to collaborate.

Thanks to Simone Enei, friend, climbing partner and exceptional photographer.

Thanks to Fabrizio Grimandi, Damiano Ortali and Leonardo Ronconi, for always saying yes to my climbing suggestions!

They know that the elderly must be supported and looked after.

Thanks to Giuseppe Babbi and Luca Leoni for the great climbing together over the years.

Thanks to Gianni Fantini for the corrections and his contribution.

Thanks to Tommaso Cardelli, for his important contribution and for the beautiful days in the Dolomites.

Thanks to Marco Bozzetta: I hope to climb soon together!

Thanks to Filippo Nardi and Jacopo Biserni, for the beautiful route at Sassolungo and for the relative information: I will soon go to repeat it!

Thanks to Samuel Zeni, always ready to offer precious information.

Thanks to Maurizio Giordani and Manrico Dell’Agnola, true ledgends of alpinism.

Thanks to Luigi Dal Re, for the beautiful drawings.

Thanks to Francesco Rioda, who edited the layout of this guidebook for Versante Sud: I did not know him personally but a friendship has already developed. Also a big thank you to those who contributed to re-reading the guide, among these are Gianni Fantini, Leonardo Ronconi and Arnaldo Piacenza

Thanks to Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi for the many great climbing days spent together. Thanks to all the climbers who imagined and created the splendid routes collected in this volume, without them this guide would have never existed.

Last, but not least, a big thank you to the CAI section of Cesena and to Claudio Montevecchi for signing me up way back in 1988 to my first climbing course. Sometimes things happen by chance and they allow you to feel better for the rest of your life.

Samuele

Fabrizio Grimandi and Damiano Ortali descending from Antelao (© S. Mazzolini) 

Technical Introduction

6 blts

1 rt

Gear: the size of the friends suggested here refer to those Friends camalot C4 Black Diamond. For microfriends we mean sizes less than 0.3. The gear listed is suggested but not obligatory.

1. V+ 35m

2. VIII35m

3. VII35m

4. VII30m

chimney overhang niche slab rock tunnel traverse peg bolt ledge

corner roof corner/crack

5. V+ 30m

PROTECTION

S1 Normal protection system such as on cliffs. Average distance between bolts: 3,4 metres. Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

S2 Distant bolts and compulsory passages from one bolt to another. Potential length of fall: a maximum of 10 metres; fall without danger.

S3 Distant bolts, almost always compulsory passages. A distance of sometimes more than 5 metres between bolts. Long falls but not very dangerous.

S4 Very distant bolts (more than 7 metres), compulsory passages. A fall can potentially cause an injury.

S5 Bolts more than 10 metres apart, compulsory passages and parts where a fall can surely cause an injury (fall on terraces and ledges or directly to the ground).

S6 Partially bolted but far from cruxes, long parts (more than 20 metres) from which a fall could be mortal.

TECHNICAL DIFFICULTY

R1 Easy to protect, always solid, safe and numerous protections. Few compulsory passages. Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

R2 Fairly easy to protect, always solid and safe protections, smaller in number. Compulsory passages between protections. Potential length of fall: some metres; fall without danger.

R3 Difficult to protect, not always good protections, bolts rather distant from each other. Long compulsory passages. Potential length of fall until 7-8 metres, fall with possible injury.

R4 Difficult to protect, scarce and/or unreliable and/or distant protections which could allow just a small fall. Long compulsory passages. Potential length of fall until 15 metres with possibility of losing the anchors. Fall with a high possibility of injury.

R5 Difficult to protect, scarce, unreliable and/or distant protections, which could allow just a small fall. Long compulsory passages. Possibility of long falls that might lead to the ground with consequent serious injuries.

R6 Not possible to protect but for short and insignificant passages far from cruxes. A fall could be mortal.

FR Free climbing grade followed by the obligatory grade and the possible aid climbing grade in brackets. Two examples available on the right.

UIAA Grade of the hardest section followed by the obligatory grade plus the aid climbing grade in brackets. Two examples available on the right.

7b (6a, A0 obl.) 6c+ (6b obl.)

VI (V+, A0 obl.)

V+ (IV, A1 obl.)

Brenta Group

The only Dolomite group which rises to the west of the river Adige. The group extends for roughly 40 kilometres in a north-south direction and for roughly 12 km from east to west. The entire Brenta group is part of the Adamello Brenta natural park. The group’s mountaineering history dates back to 1865 the year in which Giuseppe Loss from Capria in Primiero, on the 20th July 1865 with six climbing partners reached the summit of Cima Tosa 3173m, the highest summit of the Brenta Group. For over a century, Brenta has been a destination for mountaineers and hikers from all over the world, as it offers an extraordinary variety of climbing, routes and paths as well as dozens of mountain huts and bivouacs at high altitude. Brenta all in all is recognized for the quality of its ascents on good and excellent rock. Many pages of mountaineering history of the dolomites have been written on these iconic walls as for example Campanile Basso. Brenta compared to other climbing areas stands out for its remote and wild surroundings far from the road’s hustle and bustle.

01. Cima Paganella Happy ledge 16

02. Cima Paganella Il re del Brenta 22

03. Cima Cee Appigli dispersi 26

04. Cima Cee La linea del tempo 32

05. Pilastro dell’Orso Attriti verticali... zero 36

Val d’Ambiez

06. Le Tose Il gatto e la volpe 44

07. Le Tose Il paese dei balocchi 46

08. Cima Susat Innocenti evasioni 50

09. Cima Susat Il canto delle sirene 54

10. Cima Susat C’era una volta il West 56 11. Cima Ghez Zigo zago 58

12. Crozzon di Val d’Agola La Tanardite . 62

13. Campanile Basso Attraverso il tempo 68

14. Campanile Basso Rovereto 72

15. Crozzon di Brenta Spes ultima dea 76

16. Cima Dagnola Fisioterapia d’urto 82

17. Croz del Giovan The shark 86

18. Croz del Giovan Bonobo 86

The heart of the Brenta group. (© S. Mazzolini) 

L. di Molveno

L. di Tovel

L. di Toblino

Cima Paganella 2124m

Paganella is a summit which lies in the province of Trento, in the municipalities of Fai della Paganella, Andalo, Molveno, Terlago and Zambana. It is the mountain which overlooks the city of Trento from north-west. Its mountaineering history sees its origins in September 1932, when the roped party consisting of Bruno Detassis, Gino Corrà and Nello Bianchini, together with the cinematographer Aldo Pedrotti, achieved the first ascent of the direct route of Paganella. This mountain has experienced a thriving mountaineering period, especially in its main sector (la Roda), until the cable car worked, which from the bottom of the valley of Trento climbed all the way to the top, offering quick and easy access to the rock face. Once the cable car was dismantled, both due to the long access and the not so great rock, the rock face was gradually abandoned. Only recently, thanks to the new routes opened by the well known local alpinists, among whom Rolando Larcher, the rock face gradually experienced the return of climbers, even if there will never be the risk of this place being overcrowded!

ROAD ACCESS

After the town of Fai della Paganella (TN) reach Santel 1033m where you park your car in the large car park.

Val Trementina 1900m

01. HAPPY LEDGE

R. Larcher, N. Sartori, 2014

Total length: 330m

Difficulty: 7c+ (7b obl.) / S3

Exposure: East

Gear: 11 quickdraws, 2 friends n.0,75 and n.0,50 BD, a set of microfriends.

The free climbing is very difficult and athletic. The continuous difficulties and the obligatory sections require a consistent climbing level of 7b onsight. Beautiful surrounding environment. Be careful after rainy days due to wet streaks forming.

Approach: from the car park there are two possibilities:

1. on foot along path SAT 602 until Malga di Fai 1665m 1h30, then continue until the evident saddle where the rock face appears, go down the steep gully and almost at the bottom, cross horizontally to the right by scrambling, to then shortly climb up to the evident cave where you start. From Santel in roughly 1h45, from Malga di Fai in 20 mins.

2. During summer it is possible to take the Santel -Meriz chairlift, get off at an altitude of 1447m, to then continue on foot along the ski slope further over to the left, which is level with path SAT 602, reaching Malga di Fai in 30 minutes. From here as described above.

Descent: from the exit of the route shortly traverse until you reach a track which across the mountain pine leads back to Malga di Fai. (20-30 mins).

09. IL CANTO DELLE SIRENE

D. Sebastiani, V. Chini,

1988

Total length: 250m

Difficulty: 7a (6c+ obl.) / S3

Exposure: East

Gear: 12 quickdraws, kevlar threads, microfriends.

Beautiful, continuous difficulties and psychologically testing, athletic and technical obligatory sections. The route starts level with a crack.

Approach: from Rifugio Al Cacciatore continue only on foot, always follow the path marked n.325, or else alternatively walk along the mule track 325/B and reach Rifugio Agostini in roughly 1 hour and 30 minutes with a vertical height gain of roughly 600m. From Rif. Agostini follow the path which leads to Ferrata Castiglioni (321), detouring until the rock face (30 mins, cairn at the start).

Francesco Piacenza, Il canto delle sirene (© S. Mazzolini)

Descent: abseil down the route or along Ferrata Castiglioni.

tracks towards Ferrata Castiglioni

6c+/7a

ledge (end of difficulties, possible to return by abseiling)

black slab rt rt

beautiful athletic wall with pockets

technical corner

difficult black wall

difficult section before anchor

athletic yellow slabs

overhang (obligatory crux, key section)

not difficult

10. 6b+ 30m

9. 6c 40m

8. 7a 30m

7. 5b 35m

6. 7a+ 25m

5. 6c 20m

end of difficulties

steps

wall requiring endurance and final overhang (loose rock in sections)

traverse loose rock crux on overhang

wide ledge pillar

crux on overhang gully

slab requiring movement

overhang

4. 7c+ 40m

3. 7b 20m

2. 7a+ 25m

1. 6c+ 25m

technical slab

overhanging wall requiring endurance

athletic roof

athletic roof ledge ledge

overhang requiring endurance with final crux

Tremolada attempt path attempt on Platter compression bolts wall requiring endurance

Croda del Pomagagnon 2450m

Pomagagnon is one of the main reference points for classic alpinists who wish to test themselves on a long, fifth grade ascent. This mountain is in fact very busy for the many repetitions on Spigolo Jori at Punta Fiames. Recently the south-west face was enhanced by opening the route Solstizio d’estate, a long mountaineering style route with rock which in some sections is “exciting”. The route’s length, the approach path and the long descent, added to the breath taking view and the rock’s quality, make this mountaineering itinerary a highly satisfactory route.

ROAD ACCESS

The starting point for this route is the car park of the Putti medical institute, which lies just above Cortina d’Ampezzo. Coming from Cortina towards Dobbiaco along the state road 51, you will notice, before coming out of the village, the signs on the right side of the road. Drive up some hair pin bends along the asphalt road and reach the car park of the Istituto Putti (località Codivilla).

46. SOLSTIZIO D’EASTATE

L. Alverà, F. Michielli, R. Fantina, 2020

Total length: 900m

Difficulty: VII+ (VII obl.) / RS3

Exposure: South-West

Gear: 15 quickdraws, a set of friends up to n.3 BD and a set of microfriends.

Nice and long free climbing, trad style, even if opened using pegs and bolts, it runs up the large Pomagnon wall along a line of nice and solid rock, with a bit of loose rock only on the ledges and along the easier sections. The environment is beautiful and the climbing never extreme and is very satisfactory.

Approach: Follow a dirt road behind the Institute Putti (1357m, which climbs up towards north-east towards the evident wall of Pomagnon, until you find path n.211, which is a wide forestry road. Follow it uphill and take the second path which turns towards north towards the Ferrata Terza cengia (1640m). After crossing the second of two gullies turn right up a ridge of mountain pine (cairns) and then up a gully towards the rock face. Once past the height of the first ledge exit the gully and head towards the crack which characterises the first and second pitch of the route. The start is level with a leaning slab (cairn); approx.1 hours and 15 minutes.

Descent: two options.

1. This descent is recommended, it is the easiest and quickest, but it does not lead back to the star-

ting point, therefore it is recommended to organize a second car at Ospitale. From the last anchor point of the route go down a smooth slab for a dozen metres (possibilities to tie in at the anchor point) and then along ledges and easy scrambling go round the ridge in a southerly direction (II). Once you reach the northeast side of Pomagagnon go down until the bottom across screes and meadows (sections of I and II grade) aiming towards the watercourse on the left. Follow it until the forestry road of Val Padeon (n.203) and along this shortly reach the state road 51 Alemagna, at Ospitale (approx.1h30).

2. This descent requires good orienteering, therefore it must not be underestimated and should be avoided in case of bad weather or fog. Follow option 1) for roughly 400m of vertical height gain (10-15 minutes) until you do not find an easy gully on the left. Follow the gully (characteristic section under a wedged in boulder) until the first saddle, go down a few metres along evident tracks of chamois and reach, following another gully, a second saddle a few metres higher (large mountain pine). Continue, by not losing too much height and passing above some scattered mountain pine; once the mountain pine is finished slightly regain a bit of height and aim towards another area of mountain pines. Climb up an evident corner of 5 metres (III+, loose rock) and reach a comfortable ledge (cairn). Follow the ledge towards north for thirty or so metres until it is interrupted and climb up an exposed slab (III+) until an arête with a large yellow rock tunnel (possibility of setting up a

belay and cairn). Go round the arête, cross the gully and aim towards a dead tree on the successive ridge. Climb up the ridge along grass and scree for a few metres until a diagonal ledge, which will be followed until a gully (cairns), descend it and reach an anchor point (bolt with cord). Abseil down for 60m and reach the scree below, which after the diagonal section leads to the saddle Forcella Pomagagnon; from here follow the path and reach the car park of the Istituto Putti (approx.2h30)