WINE|BEER|SPIRITS|CIDER ISSUE #12 PLUS SCREW IT WINE PARKER-BINNS VINEYARD & MOUNTAIN BROOK TRYON FOOTHILLS WINERIES ❚ Castello Barone ❚ Zimmerman Vineyards ❚ Euda Wine ❚ Q&A with Cypress Bends New Winemaker ❚ Riversong Cabins ❚ Sneak Peak at Spirited Haven AN EXPLORATION IN LIBATIONS
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Mountain Views Discover the essence of North Carolina wine in Wilkesboro and the Yadkin Valley. Nestled in scenic landscapes, more than 40 vineyards boast a rich blend of Old World tradition and New World innovation. From the elegance of the Yadkin Valley to Wilkesboro's charm and modern artistry, each sip tells a story of terroir, passion, and craftsmanship.
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In the heart of Trinity, North Carolina, you’ll find Zimmerman Vineyards and its proprietors, Lauren and Shane Zimmerman, who have taken over the family business.
Cypress Bend Vineyards has a new winemaker who hails from South Australia. Meet James Radcliffe in our winemaker Q&A.
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In part two of our series, profiling Castello Barone Vineyards, we sit down with Scott and Elizabeth Barone to discuss what’s new for the rest of the year.
Located in Old Fort, North Carolina, euda wine is one of the newer wineries here in the state to open with some amazing product. We interview coowner/winemaker Michael McGeary.
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Our cover story features two popular wineries in the Tryon Foothills—ParkerBinns Vineyards and Mountain Brook Winery. Find out what you’re missing if you haven’t been to either location.
Bruce and Amy Jeffers are sitting on a gem called Riversong Cabins. Located on the outskirts of Elkin, this is a perfect weekend stay for wine drinkers, hikers, bird watchers or anything in between.
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Here’s a treat for you, the reader. We share a couple of pages from our upcoming endeavor, Spirited Haven, with two informative articles. Enjoy!
We love wine education, and we have one of the best writing for us, our good friend Kim Williams. Check out her advice on picking out a wine.
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CONTENTS ISSUE
FRONT COVER PHOTO COURTESY OF PARKER-BINNS VINEYARDS.
# 12
ISSUE #12 | 3
EDITOR’S NOTEBOOK
PAUL
SHELTON VINEYARDS • JONES VON
DREHLE • SANCTUARY VINEYARDS
JOLO • RETRO MEADERY + MORE
Get your copy today at: trianglearoundtown.com/shop
Ah, what a whirlwind this Spring has been for us! With every ounce of energy, we’ve been dashing around to ensure our beloved readers stay abreast of all the happenings in the local wine and spirits scene here in the Tar Heel State.
Let me tell you, it’s been quite the adventure, and it’s all culminated in our latest issue of Screw it Wine.
Let’s dive into the heart of it, starting on page 6. Jennifer has expertly crafted a captivating winery spotlight on Zimmerman Vineyards in Trinity, North Carolina. We had the pleasure of sitting down with Lauren and Shane Zimmerman, delving into their journey as they embark on the noble task of carrying on the family legacy.
Despite the challenges ahead, their dedication promises to keep this winery thriving with its exquisite offerings.
Flipping to page 8, we shine the spotlight on James Radcliffe, the talented winemaker at Cypress Bend Vineyards.
Hailing all the way from Adelaide, South Australia, Radcliffe brings a unique flair to his craft.
Our encounter with him during the Taste of NC event onboard the Battleship North Carolina was nothing short of delightful. And if you’re a fan of Muscadine wines, trust me, you’ll want to pay a visit.
Our journey then takes us back to Ronda, where we caught up with Scott and Elizabeth Barone at Castello Barone Vineyards. Part two of our series chronicles their triumphs and challenges during the inaugural year of their winery. It’s inspiring to witness the strides they’ve made in enhancing the visitor experience since opening their doors.
Page 12 introduces us to euda wine, a new gem nestled in Old Fort, North Carolina.
Meeting owners Michael and Abi McGeary, along with their adorable son Parish, was an absolute pleasure. Their passion for winemaking and the rich history behind their venture make for a fascinating read.
Now, onto our cover story featuring two beloved wineries in the Tryon Foothills—Parker-Binns Vineyards and Mountain Brook Winery. Spending time with Parker-Binns’ winemaker
Justin Taylor and vineyard manager Cory Lillberg was a true delight. Their dedication to their craft is palpable. And with Mountain Brook, a visit from the maestro himself, David Coventry, was a highlight. His selection of wines and insightful discussions left us eager for more. And you will get more, believe us—you’ll just have to stay tuned to trianglearoundtown.com!
On page 20, we invite you to discover Riversong Cabins in Elkin—a hidden gem worth exploring. Our time with owners Bruce and Amy Jeffers was filled with enchanting tales and breathtaking scenery. Trust me, you’ll want to experience it for yourself.
But wait, there’s more! We’re thrilled to unveil a sneak peek of our latest project, Spirited Haven, which celebrates local distilleries, mixologists and the art of crafting cocktails. Plus, our dear friend Kim Williams shares some invaluable tips for selecting your next bottle of wine. She’s our wine expert, so be sure to read this one!
So, dear readers, raise your glasses and join us in celebrating the rich tapestry of flavors and experiences that our beloved Tar Heel State has to offer. Cheers to Summer, to good company, and to the endless adventures that lie ahead!
Dathan Kazsuk & Jennifer Primrose Founders/Editors
DON’T FORGET TO DOWNLOAD OUR PAST ISSUES ISSUE #10 ISSUE #9 FEATURING NC WINERIES SUCH AS: CASTELLO BARONE • CHRISTIAN
Editors and co-founders of Screw it Wine, Dathan and Jennifer just returned from a relaxing visit exploring the wineries of Michigan’s Old Mission Peninsula.
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NUTURING A DREAM INTO A REALITY
BY JENNIFER PRIMROSE
Zimmerman Vineyards is a family-owned vineyard in Trinity, North Carolina, amidst the scenic rolling hills. It is situated just off I-85 in Randolph County, offering a serene escape approximately an hour and a half from Raleigh and slightly over an hour from Charlotte.
As visitors traverse a gravel road flanked by sprawling vineyards, a rustic tasting room greets wine lovers that exudes warmth and hospitality. The five acres of vines sit on 140-acres of land, offering breathtaking views of the Uwharrie Mountains and providing a tranquil backdrop for wine enthusiasts and nature lovers.
The journey of Zimmerman Vineyards traces back to
WINERY PROFILE: ZIMMERMAN VINEYARDS
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OPPOSITE PAGE: Zimmerman Vineyards in Trinity features a spacious outdoor area to enjoy its wines while taking in the vines just down the hill. THIS PAGE: The Zimmerman family features (from left to right) Alex, Shane, Megan, Lauren and Adriaan. Enjoy a flight of four wines when you indulge in a flight at Zimmerman Vineyards.
1980s when the Zimmerman family embarked on a new chapter in their lives, venturing into a realm of possibilities by purchasing a plot of land.
“It started back in 1987 when my parents began the whole thing. It wasn’t a winery then. It was just land and a new opportunity, a new start, from where they had been before,” says Lauren Zimmerman, who you’ll usually see running the tasting room at the winery.
For 25 years, the family poured their passion into the vineyard, transforming it into a thriving enterprise.
What began as a labor of love evolved into Randolph County’s first commercial vineyard, a beacon of hope and perseverance.
In 2007, Zimmerman Vineyards officially opened its doors to the public, with the parents at the helm, navigating the nuances of viticulture while their children, still young at the time, lent a helping hand in various capacities. However, as life unfolded, challenges arose, prompting a transition to the next generation.
Last year, Lauren and Shane Zimmerman, the son and daughter of the original proprietors, assumed leadership roles within the business. While Lauren oversees the day-to-day operations, meticulously managing the property, Shane spearheads the business aspects from Charlotte, infusing fresh perspectives and strategies into the family legacy.
Reflecting on the vineyard’s journey, Lauren acknowledges the challenges, from battling diseases to weathering frosty setbacks amongst the vines. Yet, amidst the trials and tribulations, an unwavering passion exists to uphold the family’s tradition and elevate the vineyard to new heights.
For Shane, delving into the intricacies of business administration in the winery and vineyard realm and social media has been a journey marked by growth, learning and adaptation.
“It’s been a huge learning curve, for sure—for me, at least,” says Shane Zimmerman, who spends a majority of her time in Charlotte. “I know Lauren has been a huge part of the vineyard for longer than I have just because he’s lived close by and has been managing the property for the past ten years, for the most part.”
Despite facing challenges, Zimmerman is thriving and producing diverse wines that perfectly capture the region’s essence. All grapes are grown on-site, but the wine-making process is produced off-site at Childress Vineyards in Lexington, where Mark Friszolowski and his team produce the wine.
Looking towards the future, Zimmerman aims to expand its offerings and elevate the guest experience through events and venue enhancements. With plans to augment event spaces and accommodate larger gatherings and weddings, the winery aspires to foster a vibrant, welcoming atmosphere.
Throughout the tasting room and on the wine labels, you will see a theme inspired by Greek mythology, particularly the story of the King of Corinth. In this myth, the king was doomed to push a boulder uphill forever, only to have it roll back down again.
They also draw inspiration from other mythological figures, such as Persephone, the daughter of Zeus and Demeter, queen of the underworld. By embracing this theme, the winery draws parallels between the enduring challenges of Sisyphus and Persephone and their uphill battle to establish a flourishing vineyard amidst adversity. The journey is far from over as Zimmerman Vineyards continues to carve its legacy in the heart of North Carolina’s wine country. With each passing day, the family remains steadfast in crafting exceptional wines, cultivating community, and nurturing their dream into a lasting reality.
ISSUE #12 | 7
WINEMAKER SPOTLIGHT
JAMES RADCLIFFE
Hailing
from Australia, he makes a move to Wagram to produce Muscadine wines for Cypress Bend Vineyard
BY DATHAN KAZSUK | PHOTO COURTESY OF CYPRESS BEND VINEYARDS
Hailing from Adelaide, South Australia, the heartland of wine country, James Radcliffe grew up immersed in the rich tapestry of winemaking culture. Surrounded by the renowned McLaren Vale, Adelaide Hills and Barossa Valley wine regions, he developed a deep appreciation for the art and science of crafting fine wines.
Driven by a natural affinity for chemistry and biology, Radcliffe recognized early on that winemaking offered the perfect outlet for his talents. Fuelled by this passion and guided by a desire to merge academic pursuits with his love for wine, he embarked on a journey of discovery, enrolling in the esteemed Bachelor of Agricultural Science program at the University of Adelaide with a major in Oenology.
Fascinated by wine’s intricate flavors and complexities, he found solace in the laboratory, where he could harness his aptitude for chemistry and biology to unlock the secrets of winemaking. With each grape varietal and fermentation process, Radcliffe honed his skills, shaping a future that would intertwine his expertise with his passion for wine.
Today, Radcliffe is the newly appointed head winemaker at Cypress Bend Vineyards in Wagram, North Carolina. The winery is known for its Muscadine grapes, primarily Carlos, Noble and Magnolia, which it has crafted into various awardwinning wines. The winery is currently producing 16 different wines using Muscadine grapes, and with Radcliffe taking the helm, Screw it Wine decided to reach out to the winemaker and find out a little more about his background.
What made you want to be a winemaker growing up, and what were some memorable past jobs you
might have had? My first job after graduation was at Rosemount Estates McLaren Vale. At the time, the Rosemount brand was experiencing very strong growth. As a result, I not only got to experience wine production, but also experience winery development and expansion.
At larger wineries, expansions always seem to be occurring during the grape processing period. This enabled me to learn about many engineering aspects of a large-scale winery.
We also made many different wine styles there. We made barrel-fermented Chardonnay, Rhone varietal red blends (GSM), Bordeaux red blends, sparkling wine bases and many other different wine varieties and styles. The red fermenter sizes ranged from 6-ton traditional open fermenters to 60-ton rotary fermenters. So, a good mix of old and new methods. Plus, we had a large barrel maturation program with a capacity of about 200,000 gallons. It was a very interesting and educational three years there.
What was your most important lesson before becoming a head winemaker at your current position? How did that help and get you where you are currently? The most important lesson in winemaking is to preserve the quality and flavor of the wine through judicious use of the sulfur dioxide in the wine, keeping the wine in full or regularly checked variable capacity tanks, and regular maintenance of the wine by tasting, checking sulfur dioxide levels and checking turbidities to ensure that there are not spoilage or oxidation issues.
Did you have a mentor in the industry when you first got your start? Who was it, and what valuable lesson did you learn from them? Merv Lange was a winery
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owner I enjoyed working for and with. He was the owner of Alkoomi Winery and director of Ferngrove Vineyards. I worked for both Alkoomi and Ferngrove Vineyards.
He was one the first people to plant vines in the Frankland Western Australia district in 1971. People in the area thought that he was crazy to be planting grapes. He demonstrated that good wine can be made anywhere you can grow suitable grapes. As a result, I am confident in working in areas that are not considered traditional winegrape growing areas.
What is one lesson you learned that you’d be quick to tell peers to study up on before wanting to become a winemaker? People who want to become a winemaker should understand that winemaking has many different aspects. There is the initial production of the grapes, which a winemaker needs to have some knowledge of. There is the chemistry and microbiology of the winemaking process. There is mechanical knowledge of the equipment used to process grapes, pump the juice and wine.
Later, filter the wine and equipment to bottle the wine. If the juice, grapes or bulk wine has to be transported, then you will need some understanding of logistics and trucking. Then some sales knowledge is required as well. So, a winemaker needs a good breadth of knowledge.
What is one thing you’d tell someone to sidestep in the industry? What was one lesson you learned the hard way—and know how to avoid in the future? If you want to move into the wine industry, into the industry’s production side, you need to remember that you will be working very long hours during the grape harvesting and processing period. I have observed many people find this not to be to their liking. If such hours are going to be a problem, then consider wine sales or winery accounting for steadier hours without a lot of late nights for 6 to 8 weeks of the year.
Visit Cypress Bend Vineyards at 21904 Riverton Road, Wagram, North Carolina 28396. Currently, tastings are $10 plus tax and include your choice of two full flights of wine, up to eight different wines, plus a wine glass to take home.
LEARNING TO FLY
With a grand opening, new events and a wine dinner under its belt, this Castle is ready to flourish!
BY DATHAN KAZSUK AND JENNIFER PRIMROSE
In the second installment of our series with Castello Barone, we delve into the winery’s journey since its public debut last November. Owner Scott Barone’s strategic decision to open in late fall, a typically slower season for wineries, allowed time for refining operations, including point-of-sale systems and behind-the-scenes logistics, enhancing the overall visitor experience.
With a successful grand opening attended by approximately 500 guests, Scott and his wife, Elizabeth, gleaned valuable insights, such as optimizing the tasting area for a more immersive experience. “We want this to be an experience,” Barone emphasizes, highlighting their commitment to offering exceptional tastings at Castello Barone.
The couple also has plans to install an outdoor bar for quick sales, catering specifically to patrons enjoying the outdoor seating area. “We’ll have that for just glasses and bottles,” Scott Barone notes, highlighting their focus on
VINE TO GLASS: CASTELLO BARONE {PART
4}
Castello Barone in Ronda has been very successful since its grand opening in November 2023. Photos courtesy of Castello Barone.
FROM
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DOWNLOAD PART ONE HERE.
Castello Barone hosted one of its first events, which was a sip and paint class earlier this year.
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TO VIEW OPENING DAY CELEBRATIONS AT CASTELLO BARONE
convenience and enhancing the outdoor experience for visitors at Castello Barone.
The Barones have found great success in their pairing with Laconia Ale Works from Sparta, North Carolina. “It’s been fabulous working with them,” Barone shares. “They specially craft the Castello Barone lager for us, and we also feature their hazy IPA on our menu.”
This partnership has added a unique and flavorful dimension to the offerings at Castello Barone, enhancing the overall experience for visitors. And guests can look for something special coming later in the year. “During harvest, we’re going to take some must and juice up there to the mountain and make a collaborative beer that will be released in the Fall.”
THE FUTURE IS BRIGHT
Scott and Elizabeth are ramping up excitement at Castello Barone with events such as their first “Sip and Paint” event—just one of many planned weekly festivities to entice visitors to come back. Their calendar will feature live music, a variety of food trucks, which have already included Indian food and Sushi— and more to keep the momentum buzzing throughout the upcoming Spring/Summer weekends.
While many flock to wineries for lively events, there’s a serene charm in the wind rustling through the vines and leisurely picnics. Recognizing this, Barone plans music every other weekend, ensuring those seeking tranquility can revel in the peaceful ambiance of Castello Barone between lively festivities.
Kudos to that. It can be disappointing to arrive at your beloved winery ready for a relaxing picnic with cheeses and charcuterie, only to find out that outside food isn’t allowed due to a food truck on-site.
THE INAUGURAL WINE DINNER
On April 6, Castello Barone hosted its inaugural wine dinner in collaboration with local caterer Dusty Snow, a popular choice in the area.
The 4-course meal showcased Barone’s renowned wines like its Tannat, Petite Manseng and Rosé, expertly paired with Snow’s signature dishes.
From smashed Yukon golds with smoked chicken to a tantalizing creamsicle Creme Brulee, the menu promised to make your mouth water. “We were thrilled about the event’s success and look forward to hosting more indoors,” Barone shares enthusiastically.
THE WINE CLUB
Interest in Castello Barone’s wine club is buzzing, with many eager to sign up. Barone confirms plans for the club, targeting a launch in the latter part of 2024. “I want to focus on this harvest and release some of the wines aging in barrels later in the year,” he reveals, setting the stage for an exciting addition to Castello Barone’s offerings.
Barone is prioritizing variety for the wine club to ensure members don’t receive the same wines every quarter—a common issue in some wineries.
Wine enthusiasts can anticipate Castello Barone’s upcoming releases of Montepulciano and Petit Verdot, catering to red wine aficionados. Additionally, Barone mentions the exciting debut of a port-style wine, promising a delightful experience for all wine lovers.
THE SAPERAVI
For adventurous wine enthusiasts craving diverse varietals, there’s exciting news from Barone: a full harvest of a Georgian-found grape is underway. Although the release is a few years down the road, this upcoming addition to Yadkin’s Swan Creek AVA promises a thrilling experience for those eager to explore unique and intriguing wines.
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UNVEILING THE VISIONAIRES OF euda
The inspiring journey of blending culinary expertise with Southern Charm to redefine winemaking brillance in Western Carolina
BY DATHAN KAZSUK AND JENNIFER PRIMROSE
PHOTOS BY DATHAN KAZSUK AND JENNIFER PRIMROSE
Meet the dynamic duo behind Old Fort’s euda wine, where the husband and wife team Michael and Abi McGeary bring their unique backgrounds and passions to the forefront of winemaking. With a restaurant industry foundation, Michael embarked on a wine career. Meanwhile, Abi, hailing from Louisiana and seasoned in social work and therapy, seamlessly juggles her day job with actively contributing to euda wine’s operations and event planning.
In 2022, this dynamic pair made a significant move to Old Fort, driven by a shared vision of capturing the essence of eudaimonia in their winemaking venture. euda wine isn’t just about crafting exceptional wines; it’s a commitment to sharing the joy of wine with the local community, embracing a down-to-earth, no-nonsense approach to the art of winemaking.
FOR A REVIEW ON A TASTING AT EUDA WINE ISSUE #12 | 13
Tell us how you got into the fabulous world of wine and opened North Carolina’s newest winery there in Old Fort. So, I initially worked in restaurants right out of college. I was working in Aspen, which is a ski town, and that’s where I actually got into wine. I had a manager who promoted us learning about wine because we were selling wine at the restaurant. I pursued the sommelier route and got my certification there in Aspen. I was there a couple of years but wanted to know what my next steps were for me. I loved the restaurant life but didn’t like working nights and weekends.
Around that time, I met a gentleman who was in town at the bar, and we got to talking. He was from Napa and in town doing sales, and he pitched this idea to me: working a harvest and getting into winemaking. So I thought about it for a couple of weeks and reached back out to him and told him I wanted to take him up on his offer—and he connected me with a winemaker in Napa. I quit here, and in two weeks, I was up in Napa working a wine harvest.
That’s so great. To be young and able to move from Colorado to California in two weeks and work a wine harvest. I must admit, the first couple of weeks were rough because we were bottling. Anyone who’s done production knows that bottling is not always the most fun thing to do. But it was unique to work and create something you can put in someone’s hand at the end of the day.
This time in California was at Girard Winery, but you also spent some time learning abroad as well, correct? I moved out there in 2012 and was there for about four years,
but during that time, I left for two different stints to work abroad. In 2013, I went to New Zealand, returned to Girard, and left again that following Spring to go to South Africa. When I returned from South Africa, I realized this was what I wanted to do for my career.
I spent those next two years working at Girard and taking classes at the local community college in Napa to get the prerequisites because I was a philosophy undergrad. So, after two extra years in Napa, I got into a program in Switzerland in 2016 and spent two years there getting my Master’s. I worked a little in Switzerland, and upon returning to the U.S., I did a harvest in Chile before going to Virginia.
Where did you spend time in Virginia? I got to Virginia in 2018 and worked for over a year at King Family Vineyards in Charlottesville as the assistant winemaker. Then, in 2019, I became head winemaker at Rockland Farm Winery in Maryland. So, I moved to Maryland and was there for three years before my wife and I moved back to North Carolina.
Being originally from Durham, did you want to return to your roots and try winemaking here in North Carolina? The home roots did play a huge role. I’ve always loved North Carolina, growing up here.
Considering your extensive experiences in California and Virginia, regions that are years ahead of North Carolina, especially in investing in the local wine industry, did you encounter any challenges when deciding to
PAGE 12: Michael, Abi McGeary, and their son Parish inside eude wine in Old Fort, North Carolina. THIS PAGE: You’ll find the barrels used in many of euda’s red wines located inside the tasty room and the stainless steel tanks used for fermenting many of the white wines. You can’t miss euda’s tasting room with its vibrant yellow entrance. OPPOSITE PAGE: The tasting room at euda wine can host many around the bar, with multiple tables and chairs for guests. There is outdoor seating as well.
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establish roots here, given the apparent disparity the state gives to our local wine scene? You are correct that the reality is that Virginia does have a more recognized reputation in wine than North Carolina right now. But when I told my friends I was leaving California and going to Virginia, they were all like, ‘What are you doing going to Virginia? Come to California, that’s where you really make wine.’ But you get to Virginia, and you’re like, these people have a lot of knowledge. Then, when I was leaving Virginia to head to North Carolina, people were telling me, ‘What are you doing? They don’t know how to make wine there. Stay in Virginia.’
It’s my nature to build rather than stay in an established place, and North Carolina already has many good wineries. Still, it feels a little more on the ground floor of an industry that is really building up, and it’s a little more exciting and fruitful at the end of the day.
Your winery is located in Old Fort. It is a growing small town and very close to Asheville. When we were
looking for a property, we knew we wanted to be in Western Carolina, and realistically about 45 minutes from Asheville. We were eyeing a few different towns, but ultimately, we found Old Fort and liked it.
How would you describe your winemaking style? What would you say makes you different from all the other state winemakers? Speaking of style, I’m inspired by Old World or European style, which is basically the wines make themselves. That’s overstated because there’s always something that goes into winemaking. But generally speaking, I try to do the least amount of stuff I can in the winery. All our fermentations are spontaneous and are minimal to what we do in the cellar with filtering and additives.
Currently, you are sourcing your fruit, and we will discuss that next. But do you have any thoughts on planting vines on-site or having your own vineyard? My joke to everyone is when you start talking to investors and banks about
vineyards, their eyes start rolling in the back of their heads, and they start foaming at the mouth because it’s such a financial undertaking. I would love a vineyard, and I’ve previously managed vineyards. In winemaking, you need to start with the best grapes possible, and the best way to do that is to farm and own a vineyard and manage it how you want. We need the business to get rolling before taking on that investment.
So, who are you sourcing from? Are you keeping it all here within the state? We’re sourcing from a few different vineyards in North Carolina, primarily from Yadkin Valley. But we are also trying to build relationships here more locally.
Tell us about your available wines? We’ll have seven wines. We’ll have three sparkling wines, one white wine, two red wines and one carbonic red. Then, in a couple of months, we’ll have some of the 2023 vintage that will include a Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, and a Rosé from Merlot.
ISSUE #12 | 15
From Vision to Vintage The Legacy of Parker-Binns Vineyard
BY JENNIFER PRIMROSE & DATHAN KAZSUK
PHOTOS COURTESY OF PARKER-BINNS VINEYARD AND MOUNTAIN BROOK WINERY
Nestled amidst the panoramic landscapes of North Carolina lies the enchanting region known as the Tryon Foothills.
Boasting rolling hills, lush and serene vineyards and charming small towns, this area offers a captivating blend of natural beauty and cultural richness. From the vibrant arts scene in Tryon to the world-class Tryon International Equestrian Center in Mill Spring, there’s something for everyone to explore and enjoy.
The Tryon Foothills is also renowned for its burgeoning wine industry, which includes ParkerBinn Vineyards and Mountain Brook Winery, as well as several other wineries worth visiting.
Visitors can embark on tasting tours, savoring the flavors of locally crafted wines while soaking in breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains.
Whether you’re a nature enthusiast, a wine connoisseur, or simply seeking a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of city life, the Tryon Foothills beckons with its irresistible charm and boundless opportunities for adventure.
Screw it Wine was fortunate to catch up with two of the Tryon area wineries, that are featured in this story: Parker-Binns Vineyard and Mountain Brook Winery. So the next time you find yourself in their neck of the woods, we suggest you visit them and tell them Screw it Wine sent you!
Parker-Binns Vineyard is situated in the Tryon Foothills of Polk County, showcasing the area’s deep viticultural heritage and thriving wine industry. Bob and Karen Binns founded this family-run vineyard as a retirement plan paying homage to winemaking and the region’s rich viticultural history.
The vineyard sits on a 40-acre estate—a journey starting with a vision to turn a small 10-acre piece of land into a thriving vineyard. Inspired by Polk County’s rich winemaking history and the vibrant community of over 20 vineyards and three wineries, the Binns diligently cleared the land and planted over 4,000 vines. Eager to embark on
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this new chapter of their lives, they sought wisdom and expertise from their neighbors at Overmountain Vineyards, spending a season there and working diligently in exchange for invaluable knowledge.
The initial plan was to grow grapes and sell a portion of their production to the Biltmore Estate Winery. However, the recession of 2008 disrupted their ambitions. Undeterred, they pivoted and decided to craft wine from the grapes grown on their estate. This pivotal decision marked the inception of Parker-Binns Vineyard.
With Bob leading the charge, daughter Kelly oversees the tasting room, ensuring every guest experiences the vineyard’s inviting charm. Grandson Cory Lillberg, the vineyard manager, meticulously tends to the grapevines. At the same time, talented winemaker Justin Taylor infuses fresh energy and passion into creating award-winning wines. Together, this dedicated team continues the legacy that Bob and Karen began, honoring Karen’s memory after her recent battle with cancer.
Western North Carolina’s wine industry is experiencing a renaissance, marked by a thriving grape-growing and winemaking scene. Taylor and Lillberg emphasize
the importance of understanding the local terroir and fruit-sourcing strategies. With his extensive experience across various vineyards, Taylor has honed his ability to discern the nuances that distinguish good, better and best wines. “I have been through several different places as far as fruit sources, several different iterations of what good, better and best looks like, and all the effort that goes into it,” Taylor shares. This meticulous approach is evident in the evolution of Parker-Binns wines, particularly in their awardwinning Merlot.
Reflecting on his time with the vineyard, Taylor recalls the significant efforts invested into creating wines that align with the vision of vineyard owners Bob and Karen. Initially, Karen’s focus was on producing Rosé from Merlot. However, Taylor was relentless in his determination to uncover the potential of Merlot beyond just rosé. He identified blocks in the vineyard with dense clay soil on the hilltops, ideal for producing high-quality red wine. These blocks are vinified separately and contribute to the distinct varietal Merlot label that Parker-Binns is known for today.
His approach when he first joined Parker-Binns was to elevate the value and perception of their wines.
Despite Bob’s humorous lament that “nobody likes Merlot” due to the influence of the film Sideways, Taylor’s commitment to the varietal has proven otherwise. The Merlot produced from these carefully selected blocks has garnered appreciation and accolades, including being a North Carolina Fine Wines Showcase winner in 2020. This specific Merlot is a fusion of three vintages sourced from the estate, blending 2017-19 vintages to craft layers of complexity, fragrance and taste, revealing hints of dried herbs, red licorice and ripe plum. Parker-Binns clinched the title of ‘Best Red’ for its 2021 Merlot and a bronze for The Watchman, a robust red table wine, at the 2024 North Carolina Fine Wines Competition.
Taylor also highlights the resilience and potential of Petit Manseng, a grape that thrives in the challenging conditions of North Carolina. “Petit Manseng is a great grape to grow in some of the humid states around the nation,” he notes. This grape, known for its open cluster and thick-skinned berries, resists late-season bunch
FOR A STORY ON PETIT MANSENG, FEATURING PARKER-BINNS JUSTIN TAYLOR ISSUE #12 | 17
OPPOSITE PAGE: As the sun sets on the Tryon Foothills, one of the best places to get away from it all is Parker-Binns Vineyard, where a glass of wine is a perfect way to end the day. ABOVE: More images from Parker-Binns Vineyard showing why one wants to visit this mountain oasis.
rot, a common issue winemakers face. Petit Manseng’s durability allows winemakers to make harvest decisions based on fruit chemistry, ensuring the wine meets their stylistic goals. In the 2021 North Carolina Fine Wines Competition, the winery’s 2020 Petit Manseng was hailed a winner for its powerful ripe orange, mango and brioche aromas.
Taylor shared his unfulfilled aspiration: “One thing that I have not yet done but would love to do is to make a sparkling red Chambourcin,” he says. “Lambrusco, a sparkling red wine from Italy, is experiencing a bit of a resurgence, and I believe the high red tone notes and low tannins of the Chambourcin grape would be ideal for creating a delightful sparkling red wine.”
He is committed to upholding the highest standards in winemaking and is adamant that he would never risk using wild fermentation that could jeopardize the quality of the fruit. According to Taylor, the potential risks of wild fermentation outweigh the benefits, especially when dealing with good-quality produce. While some in the industry may be comfortable with the unpredictability of wild fermentation, Taylor values consistency in the final product.
A significant milestone for the winery is the forthcoming establishment of the Tryon Foothills AVA, fervently championed by Lillberg. As the final paperwork has been submitted to the FDA, the boundaries of this AVA are soon to be confirmed, solidifying the region’s identity within the wine world. Spanning roughly 176 square miles, the envisioned Tryon Foothills AVA boasts five vineyards sprawled over approximately 77.70 acres, according to the Federal Register. Additionally, nestled within its boundaries are four wineries.
The petition highlights the distinctiveness of the Tryon Foothills AVA, emphasizing its unique topography and climate as defining characteristics. Lillberg emphasizes the uniqueness of this AVA, noting that every vineyard within its
boundaries consistently grows a particular grape—a rarity in the wine industry.
The establishment of this AVA encompasses several notable vineyards and wineries, including Parker-Binns Vineyard, Mountain Brook Winery, Overmountain Vineyards and Russian Chapel Hills Winery, all situated within Polk County’s geopolitical border.
Taylor reflects on the region’s historical context and geographical advantages, tracing back to images of grape cultivation in the Southern Rhône style found in Hendersonville archives. The vineyard’s location in the foothills, at the head of weathered soils near the Continental Divide, provides unique conditions for grape growing. He highlights the contrast in temperature between the Tryon Foothills and other renowned wine regions like Yadkin Valley and Hendersonville, noting how specific varietals, such as Cabernet Franc, thrive in the cooler climate. This deep understanding of terroir and varietal preferences exemplifies the dedication of Parker-Binns Vineyard to producing wines that reflect the essence of their unique location.
Parker-Binns Vineyard stands as a testament to the ongoing spirit of its founders, Bob and Karen, and their unwavering dedication to crafting exceptional wines that honor their region’s viticultural heritage. As the Tryon Foothills AVA nears establishment, the vineyard’s commitment to quality, innovation and stewardship of its unique terroir promises a bright and exciting chapter ahead in winemaking excellence.
RIGHT (TOP TO BOTTOM): Mountain
Brook Winery is a perfect setting for outdoor events or lavish wine dinners.. Grab a flight of Mountain Brook’s wines and enjoy the sunset in the foothills of North Carolina..
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For Coventry it’s not just art or science ... it’s a CRAFT
In the world of North Carolina winemaking, Dave Coventry, the mastermind behind Mountain Brook Winery, is a name that commands respect. His journey, which began in the prestigious vineyards of California, including the renowned Chalone Vineyards, Morgan and Talbott, is a testament to his dedication and passion. Inspired by the rich traditions of Burgundy, Coventry’s expertise is evident in his exceptional vino creations—a testament to his commitment to his craft.
Coventry’s pursuit of excellence has not gone unnoticed. He’s had a couple of wines ranked among the Top 10 selections by Wine & Spirits magazine, a testament to his exceptional quality. His prowess has also earned him a coveted spot among the top 100 winemakers recognized by Wine Spectator magazine, further solidifying his position as a leading figure in North Carolina’s winemaking landscape.
Now, in the serene vistas of Tryon, North Carolina, Coventry embodies a balanced blend of art and science. He draws complex realms of biology, chemistry and physics to infuse his winemaking process with meticulous precision and unwavering passion.
Coventry’s devotion to his craft manifests in an exquisite array of wines that captivate the senses. The luscious Chardonnay, with its hints of oak and butter, the velvety Merlot, with its rich berry flavors, and the robust Cabernet Sauvignon, with its bold tannins and dark fruit notes, each sip unveils a tapestry of flavors meticulously crafted to perfection. These are just a prime example of Coventry’s skill and dedication.
Coventry offers a refreshing perspective on the intricate dance of winemaking: “It’s not just artistry or science—it’s a craft,” he asserts. For Coventry, crafting exceptional wines is a delicate balance between the rigors of science and the intuitive strokes of artistry.
Reflecting on his approach, Coventry emphasizes the importance of embracing imperfection as he molds each batch into his vision of excellence. As he aptly puts it, “If you are purely scientific about it, you are going to have a lot of failures. If you are pretty artistic, you are going to have a lot of failures.”
Indeed, Coventry sees himself as a “craftsperson” adept at transforming raw materials into the sublime. His dedication to his craft is evident in every glass of Chardonnay, Merlot or Cabernet Sauvignon produced at Mountain Brook Winery.
In pursuing vinous perfection, the marriage of chemistry and biology holds sway, shaping each sip of wine into a symphony of flavor and complexity. While some may argue that a polished appearance
Mountain Brook Winery’s winemaker David Coventry begin his carreer in California before moving to North Carolina
and a penchant for hospitality can enhance the experience, Coventry reminds us of an age-old adage: “God makes vinegar. Men make wine.”
Coventry’s philosophy is a guiding light in the winemaking world—a philosophy that reminds enthusiasts that true mastery lies not in adherence to rigid formulas but in the alchemy of passion and the skills of divine inspiration.
Below are a couple of excerpts from Screw it Wine’s conversation with David Coventry.
In our culture of local wine events: Wine is a luxury mindset. And what does luxury mean? For me, it is having the time to enjoy things. Luxury is not being in a hurry and doing the things you love. It is also about abundance—don’t run out of food or wine at an event you are charging people money for.
On Mountain Brooks Merlot: Cabernet Sauvignon is a great grape, but Merlot does so well in this area for a whole bunch of reasons—from how it ripens to how ripe it gets. People might want a Cabernet Sauvignon, but the Merlot tastes tremendous, if not better and more consistent. People say you can’t get that consistency of Merlot here, but I like that challenge. Our Merlot proves that these things can be done, but you have to have the vision as you set out at harvest to build that wine.
ISSUE #12 | 19
YOUR SERENE RETREAT
A true haven for nature lovers, wine enthusiasts and small-town explorers
BY JENNIFER PRIMROSE
Riversong Cabin Rentals, nestled within the scenic landscape between the Mitchell River and Snow Creek in the heart of Elkin, North Carolina, has recently opened to guests. This family-owned and operated getaway is the brainchild of Amy and Bruce Jeffers, a couple deeply passionate about hospitality and nature. With a dedication to providing an unforgettable experience for their guests, the Jeffers have meticulously crafted Riversong to embody the essence of tranquility and exploration.
Riversong is conveniently located at the foothills of the majestic Blue Ridge Mountains, offering a perfect blend of relaxation and excitement. Whether you are looking for the serenity of scenic hiking trails, the flavors of delicious local cuisine or the allure of award-winning wineries, Riversong offers a convenient location.
Riversong currently contains four cabins - Bluebird, Magnolia, Sunflower and Monarch. These cozy abodes provide modern comforts amidst rustic surroundings, with spacious front porches adorned with rocking chairs, ideal for savoring morning coffee or witnessing the sunset with a glass of wine. These cabins feature one private bedroom and a lofted sleeping area and comfortably accommodate up to four guests, making them perfect for families or intimate gatherings.
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Beyond the comfort of the cabins, Riversong beckons guests to immerse themselves in the property’s natural splendor. Spread across 50 wooded acres, the property boasts old-growth forests, meandering creeks and a rich diversity of wildlife. Birdwatchers, in particular, will be enthralled by the opportunity to spot various species, including the vibrant Indigo Bunting, woodpeckers and delicate hummingbirds.
Riversong is currently undergoing exciting changes and developments. The plans on the horizon include excavating an ancient stone foundation discovered on the property. Guests can look forward to the addition of treehouses, yurts and a lodge. The resort will also introduce kayaking experiences and partner with local establishments such as Jumping H Farm to offer unforgettable trail rides.
FOR THE NATURE LOVER
Riversong provides convenient access to various hiking trails, including the Cabin Trail behind the Bluebird Cabin. This scenic loop spans approximately 0.5 miles. For those seeking a refreshing swim, the Swimming Hole Trail, located 200 yards from the cabins along Riversong
Lane, leads guests on a 0.2-mile journey to a swimming hole nestled along Snow Creek. Watch for the playful river otter, known to frequent the area.
Additionally, the Snow Creek Trail, accessible from Riversong Lane, approximately 0.5 miles from the cabins, guides hikers to a serene beach area perfect for meditation. Meanwhile, the Mitchell River Trail awaits at the end of Riversong Lane, approximately 0.75 miles from the cabins, leading to another peaceful beach area along the Mitchell River, complete with a swing ideal for leisurely afternoon reading sessions. For those eager to explore beyond Riversong’s immediate surroundings, nearby hiking destinations such as Carter Falls, Vineyard Trail and Pilot Mountain State Park offer boundless opportunities for further discovery and a rejuvenating return to nature.
FOR THE WINE ENTHUSIAST
Riversong is an ideal destination for wine lovers with its proximity to several renowned wineries such as Carolina Heritage Vineyards, Christian Paul Vineyards, Slightly Askew Winery, Grassy Creek Vineyards, Adagio Vineyards and Elkin Creek Vineyards. Each winery in Elkin is unique
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and has its own fascinating history, along with a wide variety of fine wines sure to delight guests. Visitors have options, such as the Elkin Vine Line, to leave the driving to someone else or customize their tasting adventures with Triangle Around Town’s recommended itineraries. CLICK HERE FOR OUR LIST
FOR THE SMALL TOWN EXPLORER
If small-town exploration is on the itinerary, Riversong Cabins is the perfect location to explore the quaint town of Elkin, just a short 20-minute drive. Nestled in the heart of the Yadkin Valley, Elkin exudes quaint charm and hospitality, drawing visitors with its main street. With art galleries, consignment shops, antiques and collectibles, visitors can lose themselves in a treasure trove of unique finds in the cozy shops that dot the street. At the same time, craft beer lovers can indulge their palates in the local brewery, which crafts unique and flavorful brews. A diverse selection of restaurants awaits those seeking culinary delights, serving everything from Southern comfort food to globally inspired cuisine. After a day of exploration, visitors can unwind in one of the inviting cocktail bars, savoring expertly crafted drinks made with
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TOP R OW, LEFT: The quaint living room inside the Bluebird cabin.
RIGHT: The Bluebird cabin is one of four at Riversong Cabins.
MIDDLE R OW: Head over to the swimming hole and enjoy a dip in the river during those hot Carolina days. BOTTOM R OW, LEFT: Riversong Cabins is just a few minutes outside of downtown Elkin. R IGHT: The cabin has a kitchen with stove, microwave and refrigerator
PAGE 22: Amy and Bruce Jeffers are the owners of Riversong Cabins.
PAGE 23: Explore the Cabin Trail which lies right behind the Bluebird cabin. All photos by Jennifer Primrose.
local ingredients, or soak up the laid-back atmosphere of Elkin Railyard, Elkin’s first beer garden, where visitors can enjoy the company of friendly locals. With its warm ambiance and eclectic offerings, Elkin’s main street promises an unforgettable experience.
Embarking on a day trip to Mount Airy promises an enchanting escape into Americana’s heart, only 30 minutes from Riversong. As the birthplace of Andy Griffith and the inspiration for the fictional town of Mayberry, Mount Airy exudes nostalgic charm at every turn. Visitors can stroll along Main Street, lined with quaint shops offering everything from locally crafted souvenirs to vintage treasures. Immerse yourself in the spirit of the smalltown South by stopping at one of the diners serving classic comfort food. Take the chance to visit the Andy Griffith Museum, where you can learn about the life and career of the beloved actor. Mount Airy is also home to craft breweries and the Mayberry Distillery and is near awardwinning winery JOLO Vineyards & Winery and Round Peak Vineyards. With its friendly atmosphere and rich cultural heritage, a day trip to Mount Airy will leave you with cherished memories of simpler times.
With its idyllic setting, convenient location, and abundant activities, Riversong Cabin Rentals transcends the ordinary and emerges as a destination brimming with possibilities. Whether you seek relaxation or adventure, wine tasting or exploring, Riversong invites you to embark on a journey of discovery and delight amidst the breathtaking beauty of Elkin, North Carolina. Book your stay today and experience the magic of Riversong like never before.
Location: 999 Joe Layne Mill Road, Elkin Website: riversongcalling.com
Rates: riversongcalling.com/rates-and-discounts
FOR A VIDEO ON SCREW IT WINE’S FIRST VISIT TO RIVERSONG CABINS
ISSUE #12 | 23
We hope you enjoy the following four pages in this issue of Screw it Wine as we introduce to you an upcoming project we’re working on, Spirited Haven. The stories you see within Spirited Haven will focus primarily on the spirit and mixology industry here, regionally and nationally. Our first story is a Q&A with the co-owner of Dram & Draught, which has seven locations in North Carolina. Then, we give you a firsthand account of a local spirit/food pairing we had at the popular bourbon restaurant, The Whiskey Kitchen. We hope you like the following few pages. —D&J
SPIRITUAL ALCHEMY
A CANDID CONVERSATION WITH THE MAESTRO BEHIND DRAM & DRAUGHT
For Dram & Draught’s Kevin Barrett, the adventure into bartending has been a coast-to-coast experience.
Born and raised outside of Philadelphia, Barrett found himself in North Carolina by his late teens, where he attended community college in Wilmington. He finished his schooling on the West Coast, where he attended bartending school while residing in Washington.
After his stint on the West Coast, Barrett found himself back in Wilmington and found a love for wine, allowing him to open a wine shop with a business partner. That lasted until 2008 when he sold his half to his partner and decided to move to Raleigh. The following year, he found a job at Foundation in the heart of downtown.
For seven years, Barrett carved a name for himself as one of the bar’s favored bartenders, but he was running
someone else’s bar, not his own. So, during a one-year hiatus from the industry in Argentina, contemplating if getting out of the industry would be a great escape, he devised a detailed business plan to open his own bar when he gets back stateside.
Enter Drew Schenck, owner of Cary’s RallyPoint Sports Grill. During Barrett’s time at Foundation, he met Schenck, became good friends, and eventually became business partners.
After Barrett returned from Argentina, he unveiled his plan to Schenck, who was preparing for a flux of new customers with the recent announcement of the Bass Pro Shop’s arrival in the same shopping center as his bar. But time passed, the plans evolved, and the vision of Dram & Draught came to be.
Taking the two things he learned while in bartending school, which was “Use two hands and put everything back where you
STORY BY DATHAN KAZSUK
SPIRITED HAVEN: DRAM & DRAUGHT
KEVIN BARRETT, the founder of DRAM & DRAUGHT has raised spirits with seven locations in North Carolina. PHOTO BY DRAM & DRAUGHT.
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found it,” he and Schenck opened the first Dram & Draught inside an old auto garage back in 2016, with the goal of being the best neighborhood bar possible.
Today, Dram & Draught has seven locations across the state, including Raleigh, Greensboro, Durham, Wilmington, Cary, Winston-Salem, and Charlotte, in order of opening dates.
Spirited Haven caught up with Barrett to discuss liquor trends, the short-lived canned cocktail Colaka, and the recent rise in nonalcoholic options.
How does Dram & Draught come up with its drink menu, especially having seven locations? You have many bartenders coming up with some fancy and tasty drinks.
It’s actually a great, fun process. It’s a lot of work, but now that we’re done with openings for a while, each location has its own screen process. We give them parameters. We will tell them we need a drink from this drink family or this liquor, and here are some suggestions. But they can use almost anything they want. Each location has its own workshops and submits the best one in each category. Then, twice a year, myself, Drew, our system managers and head bartenders get together and taste the drinks and vote on them. And then we figure out which drinks are best.
It’s great for a bartender to see his or her drink on the menu and be able to talk about it to the customers.
That’s what everyone wants. Everyone wants to participate and contribute and be a part of something. And that’s why we have the best possible menus. Every place has its Dram favorites, which are all the drinks we bring back. And then we have the local section, where it’s like two or three drinks you can only get at that location. Sometimes, the menu can come down to the liquor availability; because of our wonderful system, we can’t necessarily get the same liquor in every city. In our following menu, we’re actually going to be expanding our nonalcoholic beer and cocktail section.
Do you see the liquor trends for each location? Tequila probably sells better in Durham than in Wilmington, but
Bourbon is probably king. Correct? There are trends, but I agree that bourbon is king. We sell more wine in Fenton than we do in most of the other locations. We do sell more tequila in Durham, but bourbon is still the number one seller, and an old fashioned is almost always the number one seller nearly every day.
An Old Fashioned is my go-to drink. It’s usually the first thing I order when I go to a bar or lounge, and it’s surprising how many places can screw up such a simple drink.
It is a simple drink, yet a lot of people seem to screw it up. If you can’t make an old fashioned, then I’m drinking beer or wine for the rest of the night. I usually order an old fashioned or, every once in a while, a Manhattan, another pretty straightforward drink. It can be different from how we make it at Dram. One time, I was at a bar in Wisconsin that people said was good, and I walked in long enough to see it and said, “No.” I could tell just by looking at the place! We tried a couple of drinks, and they were mediocre and sweet. They made me an old fashioned and served it over crushed ice, and I was like, “Are you trying to fight me?”
Living here in Raleigh, our hangouts are either at your downtown location or at Fenton in Cary. The Cary location also seems packed; how has it been doing for you?
It’s pretty outstanding. There were some
high bars and hoops to jump through to get there, but it was worth it. We’re both really happy about it and have a great crew and management team. It’s only a year and a half, but we’ve seen in that time sales grow and grow and grow. It’s trending in the right direction and it’s doing great. Honestly, it’s the one that was busy from right out of the gate. Sometimes, you’re busy, and you have that honeymoon period, and then things drop off, and you have to build your business.
There is this movement, especially from the younger generations, to go nonalcoholic and not consume alcohol. And you have dry bars popping up all over the country. How does a place like Dram & Draught cater to those who have decided not to drink liquor but still want to hang out with friends who do?
We made the choice that we are taking our spirit-free cocktails to another level. I remember the days when you didn’t have anything on the menu that was alcoholfree. If a pregnant lady came in and asked for something, it was something sweet or sour, soda water and a sprig of mint. And you’re like, here you go.
Years ago, after a trip to New York, I returned and said we need to do better. So we have three spirit-free cocktails, and they’re high quality. It is important to us, and it is growing. We will be expanding our selection to five drinks instead of three. They are high-quality, spirit-free drinks that are less expensive than our cocktails.
ISSUE #12 | 25
DRAM & DRAUGH’s downtown Raleigh location. PHOTO BY JAMIE ROBBINS PHOTOGRAPHY.
SCOTTISH WHISKEY FOOD PAIRING
GLENMORANGIE GETS PAIRED UP WITH SCOTTISH THEMED FOOD IN RALEIGH
BY DATHAN KAZSUK + JENNIFER PRIMROSE
In pursuit of a captivating tale, an orchestrated dinner and the allure of one of Raleigh’s premier whiskey sanctuaries, we found ourselves drawn to an evening of libations and delights hosted by The Whiskey Kitchen and Glenmorangie.
This narrative unfolds in the heart of Raleigh, where the convergence of storytelling, culinary finesse and the intoxicating charm of a distinguished whiskey bar promises an unforgettable experience.
Upon our arrival at The Whiskey Kitchen, we found refuge in the lounge, where we awaited the final touches of our private dining quarters. This intimate space, formerly the dispatch station of White Horse Private Transportations in downtown Raleigh, had undergone a metamorphosis into an exclusive dining area. Now, we gathered with roughly a dozen others for the second seating of the evening.
But before we delve into the evening’s pairing, let’s take a nostalgic journey into the annals of Glenmorangie’s history. The tale commenced in 1843 when the Scottish highlands cradled a modest distillery owned by farmer William Matheson. In a poetic gesture, he christened his establishment with the Gaelic term “Glenmorangie,” translating to the “Valley of Tranquility.” Little did Matheson know that this humble
beginning would be the genesis of a legacy, weaving a narrative that would echo through time and find its way to the glasses of connoisseurs centuries later.
Glenmorangie stands as a pioneer, boldly venturing into innovative cask management techniques. One of their remarkable signatures is a towering copper still, reaching an impressive 5.14 meters—coincidentally, akin to the majestic height of a giraffe. Unbeknownst to us, the giraffe doubles as the distillery’s brand mascot, embodying the grace and uniqueness that Glenmorangie imparts to its craft. Embarking on our journey, we started the adventure with a delightful twist on the classic Rob Roy, featuring the exquisite Glenmorangie 10-year whiskey as its base. Savoring the nuanced flavors of our cocktail, Chip Hamner from Moet Hennessy, which owns Glenmorangie, engaged us with a brief yet captivating history of the distillery as we sipped and listened with anticipation mounted for the first sampling from Chef Ian McKenney. Our experience featured the Glenmorangie 10-year, accompanied by
a tantalizing Amuse Bouche crafted by Chef Ian. The presentation was culinary art – smoked salmon delicately perched on a turnip crisp with house cheese and pickled mustard. As the velvety whiskey graced our palates, an immediate hint of citrus and vanilla unfolded, seamlessly intertwining with the smoky essence of the salmon. This pairing set an exceptionally high bar, leaving us with the thrilling realization that if this was just the beginning, an extraordinary
SPIRITED HAVEN: THE WHISKEY KITCHEN
A 5-course dinner was served at Whiskey Kitchen in Raleigh with Glenmorangie Single Malt Whiskey.
PHOTO BY DATHAN KAZSUK
Chip Hamner of Moet Hennessy kicks off the introductions and history behind Glenmorangie.
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PHOTO BY JENNIFER PRIMROSE
culinary journey awaited us.
Stepping up to the plate for our second course was the Leek Tart, a culinary piece featuring caramelized leeks and fennel, braised leek and leek oil. This delectable creation found its perfect match in the Glenmorangie Nectar D’or. As if stepping into a pastry shop, this aged marvel, matured for 16 years, transformed swirls of delight and decadence to new heights.
And that tart. Oh my goodness! We need to reach out to Chef Ian to get that recipe because, although all our courses were spectacular, that leek tart was something we would eat weekly! Yeah, it was that pleasing!
Sean Kruta, a Southern Glazer’s Wine and Spirits representative, took the stage for the next leg of our tasting. Kruta delved into the intricacies of the following two whiskies on our voyage –the La Santa and Quinta Ruban, which were paired with a duck soup and corned beef, respectively.
The soup consisted of duck and beef broth, confit root vegetables and seared duck breast—which teamed up with the La Santa—aged in sherry casks. The whiskey radiated with hints of raisins, hazelnut and cinnamon, an excellent complement to the rich broth in the soup.
The 14-year-aged Quinta Ruban, with its complexities of black pepper, walnuts and citrus, paired perfectly with Chef Ian’s corned beef, which shared its plate with tatties and neeps gratin, braised red cabbage and topped with a black currant Bordelaise.
It was a perfect way to end the meal, but we can’t forget dessert. And the two of us were very interested in the Signet, which was to accompany the Dundee cake (a Scottish fruitcake).
Southern Glazer’s Johnnie Nobling took the floor to talk about this pairing, as he compared the Signet to Tiramisu in a glass—and that made Jen very happy upon hearing that remark.
Recreating the taste and aroma of Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee, the Signet was filled with flavors of mocha, dark chocolate and butterscotch. With something this decadent, the dense
cake with Amaretto creme anglais, current gelee and candied oranges on top hit the spot.
As we ended a perfect meal, Chef Ian answered a few questions, which will be featured in another story on how to prepare for an elegant and successful
whiskey and food dinner. We thanked the chef for the food and talked to Johnnie, Chip, and Sean, as well as one of the most gracious hosts we’ve had in a long time, Whiskey Kitchen’s Reilly Harring. She really knows how to throw a dinner party!
The Leek Tart and Corned Beef were perfect food pairings with the single malt whiskey.
PHOTO BY JENNIFER PRIMROSE
ISSUE #12 | 27
From left to right: Chip Hamner of Moet Hennessy, Reilly Harring of The Whiskey Kitchen, Jennifer Primrose and Dathan Kazsuk of Spirited Haven, Sean Kruta and Johnnie Nobling of Southern Glazer’s Wine and Spirits.
BASICS GETTING COMFORTABLE WITH THE
Who wants to learn more about wine? If you’ve been following Triangle Around Town’s digital media, then you probably already have some basic wine knowledge.
My goal is to provide some additional information you may not have thought much about in the past. We will begin with a brief description of a vineyard cycle and go over basic winemaking before we dive deeper into tasting. We’ll also cover a typical wine journey, a few shopping tips, go-to wine accessories and finish with some fun resources.
The vineyard cycle lasts 140-160 days and begins after winter dormancy. When temperatures reach 50+ degrees, weeping (the flow of sap) is the first event in the vineyard. This is followed by bud break (tiny buds begin to appear on the branches), flowering (flowers appear along the shoots), fruit set (transition from flower to grape berry), veraison (the process of maturity for the grape berries), and then harvest.
What I find interesting about the cycle, besides the fact that winemakers can literally work two harvests in different hemispheres each year, is bud break and veraison. These two parts of the cycle are the most expressive.
With bud break comes excitement about the next vintage, and during veraison, you can see the ripening process – the color of the grape come to life, and grape development is finishing up – sugar levels, acidity levels and seeds.
This occurs until winemakers make one of the most difficult decisions - when to harvest. Basic winemaking is easier said than done, as my husband can attest to after years of trying to make decent wine at home.
It begins with picking and sorting the grapes, then crushing and pressing (or purchasing grape juice for at home), fermentation, clarification, aging and bottling. The main difference between the process for red and white wines is keeping the skins on until fermentation is complete, as it captures additional flavors and color.
Winemakers will determine how long to age their wines and whether they will use stainless steel tanks or oak barrels. When I was studying for my CSW, I was a little shocked to learn that the main component of wine is (80 percent to 90 percent) water, followed by alcohol, acid, sugar and phenolic compounds. I found it fascinating, so why can’t it count towards our daily water intake?
There are many ways to learn more about wine, including tasting as many wines as possible and taking many notes. With practice, you should have a good idea of your style and preferred tastes. You can then explore other wines and wine regions using that information.
So, on to tasting: you think it would be easy, and it is, but if you’re going to learn, you’ll need to focus on your senses and take some notes. Of course, there are days I don’t take notes, but I wish I did later, especially if I enjoyed the wine.
Here are a few basic notes that are helpful when trying a new wine:
•Write down what you see – color, depth, and legs/tears streaming down the glass;
WINE 101
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KIMBERLY WILLIAMS
• Of course, smell – list everything you can smell before you swirl and then swirl and jot down additional aromas –I love smelling wine and swear I could do it all day;
• Now, the fun of tasting. Be sure to write down anything you taste that comes to mind – think of all the fruits, veggies, herbs, spices, flowers, etc. you taste;
• After tasting, think about the sensation – your thoughts on the body/weight of the wine – is it light, smooth, heavy or bitter; and
• Lastly, jot down your overall impression – did you like it; do you think it’s balanced, and would you buy it again?
Most people I talk to tell me they started with sweeter wines—mine was White Zinfandel in the 80s. I know this is aging me, but it’s okay to drink sweeter wines if that’s what you like. Most people who continue with their wine curiosity will develop a love of dry whites, rosé or red wines at some point in their wine journey.
I always like to add a few shopping tips. I love the wine app Vivino, which lets you get quick tasting notes and ratings when buying something new. You can see what others think about the wine, and if you like what they say, it may be worth a try. That’s the key to figuring out your style/preference.
I hope you don’t buy the same wine week after week. We all do this sometimes, but think about going on an adventure – there are plenty of wine regions to check out. Look beyond the pretty labels and visit wine shops where you can talk to someone who knows the wines and can guide you to taste something within your current comfort zone while your wine circle keeps expanding.
There are so many wine accessories on the market today, but my must-haves are a decanter, a personal aerator (both enhance the flavor with air exposure), and a vacuum sealer if/when you need to save some. A wine frig is not a necessity but nice to have. An electric wine opener is also nice and easier to have, but it somehow takes away some of the beauty of opening a bottle. I would suggest some nice glasses, too (even if it’s only two), especially for those special occasions at home: birthdays, anniversaries, promotions, Friday afternoons, holidays, etc.
Last, below are a couple of fun resources:
• Wine Bible by Karen MacNeil (the answers to all your questions).
The joy of wine is tasting all the different characteristics, from lush rosé wines and acidic Chenin Blancs to rich and robust red wines such as a Zinfandel to the mouth-watering bubbles of sparkling wines and French Champagnes—wine is fun to explore.
• Vivino app (helps with research and buying new wines) – sign up at www.vivino.com/app.
• Wine Folly aroma wheel and tasting journal (for easier note-taking) – www.winefolly.com.
• Podcasts: Wine for Normal People (Elizabeth Schneider) and Wine Enthusiast (great anytime you’re craving some interesting wine information).
• Wine education – (recommend) Society of Wine Educators – SWE - (www.societyofwineeducators.org) and Wine and Spirit Education Trust – WSET – (www. wsetglobal.com).
Kimberly Williams, owner of Vintage Hill Wine Events, Certified Specialist of Wine and WSET Level 2 Wine Certification. If you are interested in hosting a wine-tasting experience, learning more about North Carolina wine, or visiting North Carolina or Virginia vineyards, Kimberly can personalize an event at your home or create a wine experience weekend. kimberly@vintagehillwine.com | vintagehillwine.com | @vintagehillwine | 919.415.1331
ISSUE #12 | 29
Starrlight Mead & Cider discover your new favorite beverages Starrlight Mead & Cider In the Chatham Beverage District at The Plant, Pittsboro StarrlightMead.com Visit us Mon - Sat 12-6, Sun 1-5 Award winning honey wines, ciders, unique gifts, and an exciting event space
219 JOLO Winery Lane | Pilot Mountain, North Carolina 27041 | 336-614-0030 | jolovineyards.com
MICHIGAN
COMING SOON!!!
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