7 minute read
From Vision to Vintage: The Legacy of Parker-Binns Vineyard
BY JENNIFER PRIMROSE & DATHAN KAZSUK
Photos courtesy of Parker-Binns Vineyard
Nestled amidst the panoramic landscapes of North Carolina lies the enchanting region known as the Tryon Foothills.
Boasting rolling hills, lush and serene vineyards and charming small towns, this area offers a captivating blend of natural beauty and cultural richness. From the vibrant arts scene in Tryon to the world-class Tryon International Equestrian Center in Mill Spring, there’s something for everyone to explore and enjoy.
The Tryon Foothills is also renowned for its burgeoning wine industry, which includes ParkerBinn Vineyards and Mountain Brook Winery, as well as several other wineries worth visiting.
Visitors can embark on tasting tours, savoring the flavors of locally crafted wines while soaking in breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains.
Whether you’re a nature enthusiast, a wine connoisseur, or simply seeking a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of city life, the Tryon Foothills beckons with its irresistible charm and boundless opportunities for adventure.
Screw It Wine was fortunate to catch up with two of the Tryon area wineries that are featured in this story: Parker-Binns Vineyard and Mountain Brook Winery. So the next time you find yourself in their neck of the woods, we suggest you visit them and tell them Screw It Wine sent you!
Parker-Binns Vineyard is situated in the Tryon Foothills of Polk County, showcasing the area’s deep viticultural heritage and thriving wine industry. Bob and Karen Binns founded this family-run vineyard as a retirement plan paying homage to winemaking and the region’s rich viticultural history.
The vineyard sits on a 40-acre estate—a journey starting with a vision to turn a small 10-acre piece of land into a thriving vineyard. Inspired by Polk County’s rich winemaking history and the vibrant community of over 20 vineyards and three wineries, the Binns diligently cleared the land and planted over 4,000 vines.
Eager to embark on this new chapter of their lives, they sought wisdom and expertise from their neighbors at Overmountain Vineyards, spending a season there and working diligently in exchange for invaluable knowledge.
The initial plan was to grow grapes and sell a portion of their production to the Biltmore Estate Winery. However, the recession of 2008 disrupted their ambitions. Undeterred, they pivoted and decided to craft wine from the grapes grown on their estate. This pivotal decision marked the inception of Parker-Binns Vineyard.
With Bob leading the charge, daughter Kelly oversees the tasting room, ensuring every guest experiences the vineyard’s inviting charm. Grandson Cory Lillberg, the vineyard manager, meticulously tends to the grapevines. At the same time, talented winemaker Justin Taylor infuses fresh energy and passion into creating award-winning wines. Together, this dedicated team continues the legacy that Bob and Karen began, honoring Karen’s memory after her recent battle with cancer.
Western North Carolina’s wine industry is experiencing a renaissance, marked by a thriving grape-growing and winemaking scene. Taylor and Lillberg emphasize the importance of understanding the local terroir and fruit-sourcing strategies. With his extensive experience across various vineyards, Taylor has honed his ability to discern the nuances that distinguish good, better and best wines. “I have been through several different places as far as fruit sources, several different iterations of what good, better and best looks like, and all the effort that goes into it,” Taylor shares. This meticulous approach is evident in the evolution of Parker-Binns wines, particularly in their award-winning Merlot.
Reflecting on his time with the vineyard, Taylor recalls the significant efforts invested into creating wines that align with the vision of vineyard owners Bob and Karen. Initially, Karen’s focus was on producing Rosé from Merlot. However, Taylor was relentless in his determination to uncover the potential of Merlot beyond just rosé.
He identified blocks in the vineyard with dense clay soil on the hilltops, ideal for producing high-quality red wine. These blocks are vinified separately and contribute to the distinct varietal Merlot label that Parker-Binns is known for today.
His approach when he first joined Parker-Binns was to elevate the value and perception of their wines.
Despite Bob’s humorous lament that “nobody likes Merlot” due to the influence of the film Sideways, Taylor’s commitment to the varietal has proven otherwise. The Merlot produced from these carefully selected blocks has garnered appreciation and accolades, including being a North Carolina Fine Wines Showcase winner in 2020.
This specific Merlot is a fusion of three vintages sourced from the estate, blending 2017-19 vintages to craft layers of complexity, fragrance and taste, revealing hints of dried herbs, red licorice and ripe plum. Parker-Binns clinched the title of ‘Best Red’ for its 2021 Merlot and a bronze for The Watchman, a robust red table wine, at the 2024 North Carolina Fine Wines Competition.
Taylor also highlights the resilience and potential of Petit Manseng, a grape that thrives in the challenging conditions of North Carolina. “Petit Manseng is a great grape to grow in some of the humid states around the nation,” he notes. This grape, known for its open cluster and thick-skinned berries, resists late-season bunch rot, a common issue winemakers face.
Petit Manseng’s durability allows winemakers to make harvest decisions based on fruit chemistry, ensuring the wine meets their stylistic goals. In the 2021 North Carolina Fine Wines Competition, the winery’s 2020 Petit Manseng was hailed a winner for its powerful ripe orange, mango and brioche aromas.
Taylor shared his unfulfilled aspiration: “One thing that I have not yet done but would love to do is to make a sparkling red Chambourcin,” he says. “Lambrusco, a sparkling red wine from Italy, is experiencing a bit of a resurgence, and I believe the high red tone notes and low tannins of the Chambourcin grape would be ideal for creating a delightful sparkling red wine.”
He is committed to upholding the highest standards in winemaking and is adamant that he would never risk using wild fermentation that could jeopardize the quality of the fruit. According to Taylor, the potential risks of wild fermentation outweigh the benefits, especially when dealing with good-quality produce. While some in the industry may be comfortable with the unpredictability of wild fermentation, Taylor values consistency in the final product.
A significant milestone for the winery is the forthcoming establishment of the Tryon Foothills AVA, fervently championed by Lillberg. As the final paperwork has been submitted to the FDA, the boundaries of this AVA are soon to be confirmed, solidifying the region’s identity within the wine world.
Spanning roughly 176 square miles, the envisioned Tryon Foothills AVA boasts five vineyards sprawled over approximately 77.70 acres, according to the Federal Register. Additionally, nestled within its boundaries are four wineries.
The petition highlights the distinctiveness of the Tryon Foothills AVA, emphasizing its unique topography and climate as defining characteristics. Lillberg emphasizes the uniqueness of this AVA, noting that every vineyard within its boundaries consistently grows a particular grape—a rarity in the wine industry.
The establishment of this AVA encompasses several notable vineyards and wineries, including Parker-Binns Vineyard, Mountain Brook Winery, Overmountain Vineyards and Russian Chapel Hills Winery, all situated within Polk County’s geopolitical border.
Taylor reflects on the region’s historical context and geographical advantages, tracing back to images of grape cultivation in the Southern Rhône style found in Hendersonville archives. The vineyard’s location in the foothills, at the head of weathered soils near the Continental Divide, provides unique conditions for grape growing.
He highlights the temperature contrast between the Tryon Foothills and other renowned wine regions like Yadkin Valley and Hendersonville, noting how specific varietals, such as Cabernet Franc, thrive in the cooler climate. This deep understanding of terroir and varietal preferences exemplifies Parker-Binns Vineyard's dedication to producing wines that reflect the essence of its unique location.
Parker-Binns Vineyard stands as a testament to the ongoing spirit of its founders, Bob and Karen, and their unwavering dedication to crafting exceptional wines that honor their region’s viticultural heritage. As the Tryon Foothills AVA nears establishment, the vineyard’s commitment to quality, innovation and stewardship of its unique terroir promises a bright and exciting chapter ahead in winemaking excellence.
