Screw it Wine & Spirits – Issue 13

NORTHERN MICHIGAN EDITION

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Rove Winery in Traverse City—where exceptional wines meet stunning landscapes. A place to enjoy artisanal vintages crafted with passion in the heart of Michigan’s wine country.

Where sparkling wines take center stage. Indulge in the effervescence of flavors crafted with dedication when you visit Mawby.

At Mari Vineyards you will be introduced to old-world winemaking that blends with modern innovations. And you might catch a glimpse of Marty Lagina if you’re lucky!

Visit Black Star Farms Winery in Suttons Bay, where award-winning wines are crafted amidst picturesque vineyards on the Leelanau Peninsula.

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On the Leelanau Peninsula you’ll find Brengman Brothers Winery, where sustainable practices yield exceptional wines of the region’s unique terroir.

Plan a trip to the Old Mission Peninsula where you’ll find scenic views along a historic site filled with some of the state’s best, award-winning wineries.

Petoskey—where cool-climate grapes produce unique, flavorful wines that you can enjoy around this burgeoning wine region.

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We asked Black Star Farms’ Executive Chef John Korycki to come up with a food and wine pairing—be sure to check that one out!

Screw it

Wine’s very own Jennifer Primrose looks back at her time in northern Michigan and visiting the wineries.

FRONT COVER PHOTO COURTESY OF BLACK STAR FARMS

EDITOR’S NOTEBOOK

Hello to all our loyal readers out there. And we hope you will enjoy the latest issue of Screw it Wine & Spirits, where we are trying something a little different for the first time — and that highlights one specific area — northern Michigan.

You might be asking yourself why they are focusing on just one area. The reason is simple. There are so many great wine regions here in the States that we want to visit them personally, but we want to tell their story. You know our motto is “Let us tell your story.” And that’s what we want to do in this issue.

Northern Michigan is home to many fantastic wineries, some of which we’ve been to and others we need to visit at a later date. We have loved traveling here since Jen was born and raised in Michigan. We have family and friends there, and we make it a point to visit as many wineries and breweries as possible up north.

During our last visit in May, we reached out to a handful of wineries around the Traverse City area and told them a little bit about ourselves in an email, as well as the time and date we’d be in their area, and they reached back and rolled out the red carpet for our arrival.

That’s when we knew we had to devote an entire issue to the wineries, the scenic views and the hospitality we received from everyone in Northern Michigan.

Inside this issue, you’ll find Jennifer’s story on Black Star Farms in Suttons Bay, just a few minutes north of Traverse City. Kimberly Zacharias met us inside the winery’s tasting room and gave us a complete tour of the winery, from the inn to the restaurant and its wine cave. Check out the story on page 24 and some memorable images of this winery/distillery.

Next, we met with Mackenzie Gallagher, co-owner of Rove Estate. We sampled her wines as she gave us a history lesson on the winery and the region. You’ll find that story on page 8.

At Bregman Brothers Winery (page 32), our third interview on day one of our vacation, we walked around with brothers Robert and Ed. They let us taste some new wines from the tanks and told us their story. Now, you’ll also hear

their incredible story through Jennifer’s feature. You have to try their Cone Yak if you ever visit them!

During our time there, we met Claire and David at MAWBY, where we enjoyed the view outside while sipping Michigan’s first all-sparkling wine winery. Then, it was over to its sister winery, Big Little Wines.

On our final day, Mari Vineyard’s tasting room manager, Andy Jacobson, spent two hours with us touring the 32,000-square-foot winery and guiding us through a tasting of some of Mari’s top hits.

This was an incredible vacation, especially staying on the beach at the Brio Beach Hotel. We will be back again soon!

You’ll also find in this issue a feature on the wineries of Traverse City’s Old Mission Peninsula (page 42), which is home to 10 wineries on a 19-mile strip. We also head north of Traverse City for a story on a handful of wineries we visited in the Petoskey area of Michigan.

You’ll find wineries and cideries, even a place that produces wine made 100 percent with maple syrup. Say what?

So, we hope you will enjoy this issue and look for other regions like this to grace Screw it Wine & Spirits in the future. Cheers!

Dathan Kazsuk Co-owner, Screw it Wine & Spirits

Editors and co-founders of Screw it Wine, Dathan and Jennifer just returned from a relaxing visit exploring the wineries of Michigan’s Old Mission Peninsula.

Michigan Wine Country AN INTRODUCTION

BY EMILY DOCKERY

Michigan wine country features a vast landscape surrounded by the world’s largest supply of fresh water and boasting fertile glacial soils and ridges created during the last ice age. These features along with the lake effect bestowed upon over 90% of the state’s vineyards, allows for a wide variety of grapes, styles of wine, and characteristics of terroir. A diamond in the rough among emerging wine industries east of the Mississippi, Michigan’s over 4000 acres of wine grapes includes classic vinifera varieties as well as innovative hybrid grapes. The state’s potential for greatness and notoriety is creeping up on the global wine stage. There is no better time to familiarize the palate to the Michigan wine, and gain a glimpse into the future of American wine production.

Michigan is a serious grape growing and wine producing state. You can track the history back to the French settlers in Detroit who planted grapevines on the banks of the Detroit river in the early 18th century. In more current history, Michigan’s first official AVA was the third to be established in the country. In 1981, the Michigan wine industry celebrated the announcement of its first AVA, the Fennville AVA, in the Southwest portion of the state.This area that hugs the shores of Lake Michigan has long been recognized as an area of extreme fertility and diversity for many agricultural products.

There is no surprise that just to the south another AVA was established right on the heels of Fennville in 1983. The Lake Michigan Shore AVA is a powerhouse for the Michigan wine industry. Here on the 42nd parallel you can find about 90% of Michigan’s total vineyard acreage. The gift the lake provides to Fennville and Lake Michigan Shore is immense and includes insulating lake effect snow, temperature regulation which provides protection from frigid temperatures the northern midwest is famous for but also lengthens the growing season. Additionally, rainfall is plentiful thanks to Lake Michigan and prevents the need for irrigation but can also provide increased disease pressure during the growing season. Those glacial ridges and topography mentioned earlier is essential to the success of the viticultural geography of Southwest Michigan. These features aid in distributing cool air and provide security against frost damage.

None of this is new information for the dozens of vineyards and wineries across the two AVAs in southwest Michigan. Some of the pioneering wineries of the region were planting vinifera over 30 years ago. Domaine Berrien in Berrien Springs were some of the first pioneering the wild concept of Rhone varieties in the midwest. As the first Rhone Ranger representation in the midwest, the Mauer family saw great potential in the soil and climate for a more delicate version of the famous French varieties including Marsanne, Rousanne, Viognier, and Syrah. These vines planted in the early 1990s, are still thriving today. Now the iconic Michigan winery is being shepherded into the future by the next generation of wine as many of the region’s wineries and vineyards are.

Domaine Berrien is among several founding producers in the area experiencing a changing of the guard. A part of that club also includes Tabor Hill Winery, Karma Vista (now Filkins Vineyards), and Lawton Ridge Vineyards. There are new kids on the block too. Developing incredible sustainable and organic farming practices in vineyards in Southwest Michigan include Stranger Wine Company in the Lake Michigan Shore AVA and Modales Wines in Fennville. These producers, who are newer to the scene in contrast to the founders, are innovating the future of Michigan grapes and wine but maybe more importantly leading the way for midwest wine production as a whole. Focusing on quality vinifera grown in a responsible and environmentally sound way, Stranger Wine and Modales are flipping the script on the image of what Michigan viticulture has been considered in the past. This is a modern wine growing region with world class grapes being crafted into premium styled wines. And they are being recognized nationally.

It would be incredibly reprehensible to discuss the southwestern AVAs and not give a pronounced nod to the other three exceptional and unique AVAs to the north. Earning AVA status just a year prior to the Lake Michigan Shore AVA, Leelanau Peninsula AVA is a diamond of the midwest. Rolling vineyards set against a vista of the deep blue shores of Lake Michigan is a scene that is one to behold. About 700 of the state’s vineyards call the Leelanau Peninsula home. And for good reason. The well drained, sandy loam soils allow for deep roots and strong vines. Also taking advantage of the essential lake effect benefits of their geography, Leelanau Peninsula AVA is no stranger to growing high quality vinifera grapes to produce lean, acid driven wines.

EMILY DOCKERY

McKenzie Gallagher of Rove Winery at Gallagher Estate took a leap of faith along with her husband, and opened a winery in Traverse City. Photo by Dathan Kazsuk.

A PINNACLE OF PASSION

McKenzie Gallagher took a leap of faith along with her husband—living their dream and opening Rove Winery in Traverse City

BY DATHAN KAZSUK

Nestled at an impressive 1,165 feet above sea level, Rove Winery at Gallagher Estate stands proudly as the highest winery on the Leelanau Peninsula. Visitors to the winery are treated to breathtaking views; on clear days, the iconic Sleeping Bear Dunes hills can be glimpsed from roughly 22 miles away. This vantage point is just one of the many charms that Rove Winery offers, reflecting its unique position in northern Michigan’s wine landscape.

Rove Winery is a family-owned operating farm that has been in the Gallagher family for five generations. Co-owners McKenzie Gallagher and her husband Creighton emphasize the winery’s commitment to sustainable farming practices, honoring the legacy of their forebears while forging a new path in viticulture.

A LEAP OF FAITH AND FAMILY LEGACY

The duo took over 33 acres of land from Creighton’s family, pulling out the old cherry trees and transitioning from cherries to vines—a bold decision for the Gallaghers. McKenzie recalls the trepidation of pulling out the trees to plant vines. “It was scary, but

we wanted to follow our dream,” she says. Creighton, initially trained as an accountant, found his passion for winemaking while working at Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery.

Inspired by this new aspect of farming, he convinced McKenzie to embark on this ambitious journey together. “We had zero fear at 25 years of age,” she reminisces.

In 2010, they began the painstaking process of converting the cherry orchards into vineyards, planting their first vines in 2012. Despite having no formal training in viticulture, the Gallaghers relied on the timehonored method of trial and error, learning and adapting as they went along.

CULTIVATING QUALITY AND VARIETY

Today, Rove Winery spans 100 acres, with 33.5 acres dedicated to 12 varietals. The winery features varietals such as Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc in the white realm. As for the red wines, look for selections like an award-winning Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Rove’s growth is remarkable, considering its initial inexperience. “If it was a good cherry site, it could be a good vine site,” was

“ Reds are always challenging because we’re a cool climate. It’s really important to have a very solid farming practice and be consistent with fruit

– McKenzie Gallagher co-owner, Rove Winery at Gallagher Estate

their guiding principle during the early planting days.

As they approach their ninth season this year, McKenzie takes pride in the winery’s labels, which detail the harvest date and growing season. “Each vintage is like a time capsule,” she explains, capturing the unique climatic conditions of each year, from rain and heat to drought.

THE ROVE EXPERIENCE

Visitors to Rove Winery can expect more than just excellent wine. The tasting room is designed to make wine approachable for everyone, regardless of their level of wine knowledge. “There’s a whole spectrum of people who love wine but aren’t sure what to ask for when visiting,” says McKenzie. Whether you’re there to savor their wines’ intricacies or enjoy a glass while watching the sunset, the Rove team is ready to enhance your experience.

On Memorial Day weekends, the tasting room extends its hours until 9 p.m., allowing more time to enjoy the serene setting when many other wineries close between 5–7 p.m. “We have the energy of a wine bar, but we’re a working farm—I think we’re the best of both worlds,” she adds.

COLLABORATION AND COMMUNITY

The Gallaghers understand the importance of collaboration in the wine industry. Their wine production occurs at a cooperative facility, akin to

a custom crush, where several small wineries share resources and scale economies. “When someone comes to Traverse City, they don’t just go to one winery,” McKenzie notes, highlighting the supportive nature of the local wine community.

At this time, just down the hill from the tasting room, Rove Winery takes full advantage of Left Foot Charlie’s Co-op, Caravin, where they produce their wine, along with a handful of other local Traverse Cityarea winemakers and wineries.

CHALLENGES AND REWARDS

Growing grapes in Michigan’s cool climate presents unique challenges, particularly for red varietals like Pinot Noir. And those pesky reds are no exception at Rove. “Reds are always challenging because we’re a cool climate. It’s really important to have a very solid farming practice and be consistent with fruit management,” says McKenzie.

Despite these challenges, Rove’s Pinot Noir has garnered acclaim, including a platinum award at the Texsom International Wine Awards for their 2021 vintage.

The story of McKenzie and Creighton is a testament to the American dream, driven by passion, perseverance and a deep respect for the land surrounding them.

Rove Winery at Gallagher Estate sits atop of the highest point of the Leelanau Peninsula. Photo by Jennifer Primrose.

BELOW ARE SOME EXCERPTS FROM AN INTERVIEW WITH MCKENZIE GALLAGHER

Do Michigan wineries have difficulty getting into local restaurants’ wine lists?

Gallagher: We do. I’m hopeful because this area is around 20 years old and not quite established. We’ve really caught on in the past ten years, but it is challenging to fit into their margins. They’re used to the big distributors coming in and having the flexibility.

However, given the major tourism in this part of the state, local places would likely be apt to carry local wine.

Gallagher: There should be local wine everywhere. I think it will catch up and be tourism-driven. People visiting our area should ask why restaurants don’t carry any local wines.

I have guests ask where they can find my wine in town. And I tell them you can’t, and it’s not because we’re not trying. We would love to, but at the end of the day, it’s a cost perspective. We’re a small winery, so our costs will be significantly higher than some large wineries on the West Coast.

We learned about Rove by going to Michigan by the Bottle’s Shelby Township location. Seems like they’re doing a great thing for the smaller wineries in the state.

Gallagher: It’s been great. I love Shannon and Courtney, and Michigan by the Bottle is spotlighting many of these local small wineries.

Some states have a stigma that follows them around. In places like North Carolina, it’s the Muscadine grape. Here in Michigan, you have Riesling.

Gallagher: It’s more of a gimmicky thing, but that’s why our collaborative (which includes the Leelanau and Old Mission peninsulas) has meetings with the wine owners.

We ask ourselves, ‘What do we want to be, and what do we want people to visit us for?’ We need to start controlling our own brand and be very intentional with what competitions we want to enter. It’s better for us all to go — of course, we all want to win, but the most important part is having people say, ‘Whoah! Michigan is doing this?’

We hail from North Carolina, and our market has way too many individual wine folks posting on Instagram, making it very saturated and drawn out. Does Michigan have many “influences” who trek to the local wineries weekly?

Gallagher: We get a couple a year. TC Tourism definitely gets more, and they do a great job as ambassadors for both peninsulas. At this point, we have around 47 wineries in the Traverse City region. We get people like you two a few times a year, but for the most part, they contact TC Tourism. They have contacts with us and other wineries where they can put together a wine schedule for wine writers.

We wanted to know more about this “Caravin,” so we went straight to the source, Left Foot Charlie Winery, located at The Village at Grand Traverse Commons. This comes straight from the mouth of LFC’s winery sherpa and owner, Bryan Ulbrich.

Caravin marks the beginning of a new winemaking relationship for six exisiting wineries in the Traverse City area.

A Production for Small Wineries to Overcome Inudstry Barriers

Caravin is the beginning of a new winemaking relationship for six existing wineries. Rove and Left Foot Charley are among them.

We are building a 14,000-square-foot facility that will be solely focused on winemaking—no retail operations. Each participating winery will have a dedicated Caravin team member who will be their winemaker within our facility.

The winemaking team will work collectively on all the wines, but the project winemakers will guide the process and logistics for each client. By teaming up like this, small wineries can mitigate the massive barriers of facility and management expenses resulting from small-scale production.

Together, we will produce over 50,000 gallons of wine and have access to some economies of scale afforded to large wineries. However, by having team members focused on individual projects, each member will have that individualized focus on their vineyards to ensure the quality afforded to boutique production.

This production model will also open up growth potential for our current staff and young winemakers in the future. Caravin will be the host site for a new apprenticeship program that will train individuals in winemaking, viticulture and hospitality. Our goal is to attract a diverse population of minds that want to carry our industry forward through future generations.

The Caravin model is a modern vision of the caravans of yore, where individual farmers and artisans would travel together to present their wares to distant populations.

Sparkling Wines Family Roots & Leveraging Entrepreneurial Spirit and Expertise

BY DATHAN KAZSUK

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MAWBY

Residing in the scenic landscapes of Suttons Bay, MAWBY winery stands as a testament to the region's burgeoning wine industry and a beacon of innovation in sparkling wine production. Founded with a vision to create exceptional sparkling wines, MAWBY has become a beloved destination for wine enthusiasts seeking to experience the unique flavors and ambiance of northern Michigan's 100 percentonly Sparkling wine producer.

MAWBY's story is deeply rooted in family heritage and entrepreneurial spirit. The winery began with a desire to establish a family business that could leverage its ties to Frankfort and the broader Leelanau County area. This dream took shape when the opportunity arose to partner with Larry Mawby, a pioneering figure in the Michigan wine industry known for his expertise and passion for sparkling wines. This collaboration provided invaluable insights into the wine business and laid the foundation for MAWBY's success.

In 2009, the Laing family partnered with Larry Mawby, further cementing the establishment’s commitment to family values and high-quality wine production. Their leadership has carried forward the winery’s legacy while infusing it with fresh perspectives and dedication to innovation.

One of MAWBY's defining features is its unwavering commitment to producing high-quality

sparkling wines. The winery specializes in traditional Méthode Champenoise, ensuring that each bottle embodies this time-honored technique's meticulous craftsmanship and attention to detail. From a crisp and refreshing Blanc de Blancs to a rich and complex Cuvee, MAWBY's sparkling wines are celebrated for their elegance, balance and distinctive terroir. In 2004, MAWBY introduced fun labels such as Detroit, Us and the ever-popular Sex.

The terroir of MAWBY's vineyards plays a crucial role in shaping the unique characteristics of its wines. The region's cool climate, coupled with the well-drained soils and proximity to Lake Michigan, creates an ideal environment for growing grapes for sparkling wine production. These conditions impart a distinctive freshness and minerality to the wines, making each sip a reflection of the local landscape.

Visitors to MAWBY are greeted with a warm and inviting atmosphere, where they can savor a diverse selection of sparkling wines while enjoying stunning views of the surrounding vineyards. The tasting room offers an intimate setting to explore the nuances of each wine, guided by knowledgeable staff who share a deep passion for winemaking and hospitality.

MAWBY is more than just a producer of exceptional sparkling wines; it is a symbol of the region's rich winemaking heritage and a testament to the power of collaboration and family dedication.

OPPOSITE PAGE: MAWBY, located in Sutton's Bay, is a picturesque winery where people come to enjoy the serene backdrop of rolling hills and vines and sparkling wines. Mike (left) and Peter Laing, along with their parents Sharon and Stu, are the owners of MAWBY.

Whether you're a seasoned wine aficionado or a curious newcomer, a visit to MAWBY promises an unforgettable experience filled with delightful flavors and heartfelt stories. And remember to visit its sister winery, Big Little Wines, right next door for a diverse taste of expressions by the Laing family.

Below is a brief interview with the coowner and the director of MAWBYness, Mike Laing.

What inspired you and your family to enter the wine industry and eventually buy MAWBY Winery? My family comes from a line of entrepreneurs and my parents always wanted to create an opportunity for the family to work together. We have ties to this area, Frankfort, specifically, so we were familiar with Leelanau County. The partnership with Larry Mawby helped us learn the business and provided the opportunity to partner with a leader in the industry.

What makes the terroir of your vineyards unique? And how many acres under vine do you have? We farm approximately 30 acres on three different properties. The main Elm Valley property, where the tasting rooms are located, is about 14 acres used primarily for MAWBY wine production. The remaining acreage on the other properties is used for Big Little Wines. Our soils are sandy/loam and well-draining. This makes the region unique, not necessarily our specific vineyards. However, it is our proximity to Lake Michigan that really allows us to grow grapes in this area.

We know Larry's vision was to produce only sparkling wines. Will that ever change, or can we maybe see some "still" wines from MAWBY in the future? Who knows if we will always remain a sparkling wine brand. The decision was made because this is a cool-climate region where we can grow Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and other varieties that produce high-quality sparkling wines.

We are assuming Sex is your most popular wine. Please tell us the story behind the name, its popularity and how many cases you produce annually. We applied for label approval on a whim, as a joke.  “What if we could sell Sex all day in the

tasting room” type of thing.  It was approved in the late 90s, I believe.  We make about 13,000 cases of Sex annually.

How has the wine industry in northern Michigan evolved since you started? There are many more wineries and many more vineyards planted, so competition is greater. Still, nobody else has focused on sparkling specifically, which I find a bit odd.

What role does sustainability play in your winemaking process? We are always looking for ways to improve. We have applied for a grant to harvest our CO2, clean it, and reuse it. We strongly desire to convert our energy use to solar. We use the lightest-weight bottle we can for our tank-fermented sparkling wines. We use lowimpact vineyard sprays wherever possible, and we farm herbicide-free.

How does MAWBY stay innovative in such a traditional industry? Your region has so many great wineries; what do you do to stand apart? We are always trying new things, such as Pét Nat, aperitifs that pair with our wines, canned spritzers and different dosage recipes. It honestly keeps it exciting for our customers and for us.

What are your thoughts on the future of the Michigan wine industry? At one time, the area was known primarily for its Riesling wines, but now, more red wines are being produced in the state. We are still a small growing region, unable to produce the volume of wine that would put us on a global scale. I think a commitment to a style or variety would help customers understand what to expect from Michigan wine. We don’t have a unified quality control or marketing plan, so that’s the challenge for our region to grow, I think. Regarding wine quality, available land, and what varieties grow well here, we are wellpositioned for success.

THIS PAGE: A vintage image of Larry Mawby using an old press to juice the grapes at the winery. OPPOSITE PAGE: Enjoy a glass of sparkling wine such as Blanc at Mawby. If you're lucky, you can get a tour of the winery and possibly have Mike Laing lead your tour.

DISCOVER ELEGANCE ON THE PENINSULA

Breathtaking Views and Exceptional

Wines at Mari Vineyards

BY DATHAN KAZSUK

Just a few weeks shy of northern Michigan’s heavy tourist season, we made our bi-annual trek up north—this time back to Traverse City to explore the wineries around the peninsula.

The Old Mission Peninsula is home to ten wineries on a 19-mile stretch of stunning views and excellent wineries and vineyards surrounded by Lake Michigan’s Grand Traverse Bay—an ideal location for growing awardwinning wines.

One of those wineries is Mari Vineyards, which opened in June of 2016 and is owned by

Marty Lagina and his family. That name might sound familiar to some history buffs and reality TV fanatics as part of a team searching for hidden treasure in History Channel’s The Curse of Oak Island.

But he wasn’t doing our tour and tasting; we’re not that special. However, we were in good hands that afternoon as Mari’s Tasting Room Operations Manager Andy Jacobson spent over two hours telling us the complete narrative of the winery—from the Lagina’s family history to exploring the depths of the winery in its caves and tasting through some of the

winery’s most popular beverages. Our tour began outside the tasting room, with a spectacular view of the east arm of Grand Traverse Bay at the Bella Vista vineyard. This vineyard is just part of the 50 acres Mari Vineyards sits on, and it produces some of the winery’s Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. There, we started to talk about the harsh weather wineries can encounter in northern Michigan—or the lack thereof this past winter season.

It was a strange year in 2023, at least as far as the weather goes in Michigan. Usually, the

state gets hit hard with snow and ice, especially up north, but last year was an anomaly. “I can count on my hand the significant snowfall that impacted us,” Jacobson says. “We got some cold stretches, but it never felt like winter took a firm hold last season.”

And with the result of that mild winter, he says the winery could have a great season. But one never knows what the following season could bring. Undeterred by the unpredictable weather of northern Michigan, Mari Vineyards demonstrated its resilience by devising a strategic plan.

According to Jacobson, roughly six acres of Mari’s red grapes, located at the Irish (at the tip of the peninsula) and Jamison (near the winery) plots, use a tunnel system known as hoop houses. These structures are designed to create optimal and controlled growing conditions for the fruit.

“They do that to facilitate a little kickstart for the growing season,” he says. These hoop houses usually stay up through harvest, which helps fool the grapes into believing they’re in a warmer climate.

Marty Lagina, a driving force in the vineyard’s operations, was resolute in his mission to dispel the notion that Michigan can’t produce exceptional red wine. He saw it as an opportunity and embarked on a journey to prove them wrong. Drawing from his Italian heritage, he introduced unique grape varieties traditionally deemed unsuitable for Traverse City’s harsh winters. This courageous move led to the cultivation of varietals such as Nebbiolo, Malbec, Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon at Mari Vineyards.

Some traditionalists may view the use of these high tunnels as a departure from the region’s natural weather. However, Jacobson is quick to dispel this notion. “It’s akin to any greenhouse. It’s not so much a manipulation—we are harnessing what’s already there.” He further explains that the hoop houses simply retain heat, utilizing the sun’s energy. “We’re not introducing or pumping in heat and use no artificial heat source.”

IT’S NOT ALL RIESLING!

At one point, Michigan could have been hailed as the Riesling capital of the U.S., with wineries like Mari Vineyards showcasing the grape in various styles—from sparkling and dry to off-dry, late harvest and even Ice Wine. However, Jacobson notes a shift in the wine market. “I hate to say this, but I think we’re getting a lot more serious wine drinkers who are moving away from the sweeter wines,” he observes. This trend is evident in Traverse City, where Riesling continues to produce exceptional wines, yet other grape varieties are gaining ground. Grapes like Malvasia, Pinot Blanc, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc are increasingly being

TOP TO BOTTOM: One of Mari Vineyard’s “big” reds is the Praefectus— the wine is 60 percent Cabernet Franc, 25 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 15 percent Merlot.

Resting in Mari’s cave are barrels of the 2022 Merlot, waiting for the perfect time to bottle.

Mari Pétillant Natural wine, Storm is a blend of Grüner Veltliner, Sauvignon Blanc and Tocai Friulano.

Photos by Dathan Kazsuk.

planted, reflecting the evolving palates of wine enthusiasts.

FROM TREASURE HUNTER TO WINERY OWNER

If you didn’t know, Marty Lagina owns Mari Vineyards. For 11 seasons, Marty, along with his brother and their team, has been on a quest for buried treasure on the hit History Channel show The Curse of Oak Island. Jacobson talked about how the show’s dedicated fanbase has influenced the winery’s popularity.

“There’s a unique fanbase that has grown from Oak Island—these fans are affectionately called acorns. You could say they’re a bit nuts, but their enthusiasm helps,” Jacobson explains. However, he emphasizes that Marty aims to keep his ventures distinct. “Marty owns the winery, and he’s on the TV show. That’s the extent of their connection.”

Despite this separation, visitors often come

to the winery because of the show, and Marty is known for being gracious and engaging with his fans. The winery’s website garnered significant support during its construction, largely thanks to the show. By the time Mari Vineyards opened, visiting the winery had become a kind of pilgrimage for Oak Island fans. In a clever nod to his ventures, Marty often wore a Mari Vineyards shirt on the show, which is how many people first learned about the winery.

PAYING IT FORWARD

Today, Marty brings his knowledge of the energy industry to what’s happening around Mari Vineyards. “There are some building features that we’re doing that minimize our carbon footprint, like offsetting energy consumption with a solar grid that’s off M-72. We’re also using some of our building heat and supplying it with a European boiler in a stone house. We heat water with firewood and pipe the water through the building for some radiant heat,” Jacobson says.

Although not organic certified, Mari Vineyards is still farming all its acreage organically because sustainability matters to everyone at the winery. “One thing we benefit so much from with our grape growing and climate is this maritime microclimate is all this water,” Jacobson says as he waves his arm in the director of the Grand Traverse Bay down the hill. “The bays aren’t just nice for the site; they’re also nice as a weather moderator buffer in various seasons.”

Take a look at many of the great wine beds of the world, which rely heavily on nearby bodies of water, such as Bordeaux, Tuscany, Douro Valley, the Western Cape and even here in the U.S., with places such as Napa and the Finger Lakes.

IT BEGAN IN ITALY

Walking through Mari Vineyards, you soon discover that it all began in Italy with Marty’s maternal grandmother, Teressa Mari, after whom the winery is named.

“She was an Italian immigrant, and when you immigrate from Italy and come to the United States, you go to the Upper Peninsula of

OPPOSITE PAGE: Mari’s Tasting Room Manager Andy Jacobson discusses the intricate details of the Mari Vineyards cave, which anyone can witness if they participate in the tour. Part of the tour showcases some of Marty Lagina’s chain mail armor, which, according to Jacobson, Lagina wore one Halloween and said it weighed over 70 pounds. Photos by Dathan Kazsuk.

The Craftsmanship at Mari Vineyards

Alot of the wood you see within the tasting room and around Mari Vineyards comes from reclaimed properties owned by Marty Lagina. During construction, the team ingeniously incorporated these materials into the site. From beams and planks in the tasting room’s ceiling to large stones, they all found their way onto Mari’s property.

All the stonework is limestone from Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. The tasting room bar, crafted from ash, showcases the live edge left by the emerald ash borer, an invasive species that devastates ash trees. Instead of discarding affected trees, the team turned the unique markings into a stunning bar top.

Look out for the huge beam in the middle of the tasting room. Originally ten feet too long, it was cut into sections and repurposed into a table in front of the stone fireplace, adding to the room’s rustic charm.

Michigan, so that’s where they set up shop,” Jacobson explains. “Marty’s family settled on the upper west side of the Upper Peninsula.”

His grandmother initially brought her basic winemaking acumen to Michigan as a hobby, and this hobby evolved into distillation and making grappa for large family gatherings. These cherished childhood memories inspired Marty to create Mari Vineyards, paying homage to his grandmother’s legacy.

EXPANDING THE WINE HORIZON

Mari Vineyards currently cultivates 24 different grape varieties on its property, including 14 red and 10 white. “Marty really pushed us to challenge the perception that

Michigan wineries can’t grow red grapes,” says Jacobson.

A testament to wanting to be different, Mari Vineyard boasts a higher proportion of red grapes— among the 24 varieties are Malbec, Nebbiolo, Petit Verdot, Sangiovese and Syrah. Additionally, more unique varieties like Schioppettino, Toca Friulano, Refosco, Teroldego, Gamay Noir and Lagrein span roughly 76 acres on the peninsula.

Visitors are often surprised by the vineyard’s diversity. “People are fascinated,” Jacobson notes. “Most of it you could walk to from where you are.”

According to Jacobson, the winery’s production has grown significantly, from 6,500-7,500 cases per year to approximately 10,000 cases, probably pushing north of that number in 2024.

THIS PAGE: Mari’s production facility is a part of the 33,000 square feet of space the winery calls home. While on a winery tour, you’ll see a family tree surrounding Teresa Mari.

OPPOSITE PAGE: The stonework at Mari Vineyards is just part of the winery’s northern allure and charm. Photos by Dathan Kazsuk.

“There’s a unique fanbase that has grown from oak island— these fans are affectionately called acorns. You could say they’re a bit nuts ...”

– Andy Jacobson Tasting Room Operations Manager, Mari Vineyards

HOOP HOUSES A New Frontier in Grape Growing

In viticulture, innovation often arises from necessity, especially in regions where the climate poses significant challenges. One such innovation is hoop houses, also known as polytunnels or high tunnels. These simple structures, made of metal or plastic hoops covered with greenhouse plastic, create a protected environment that extends the growing season and shields crops from harsh weather. Traditionally used in agriculture for vegetables and flowers, hoop houses are now making their mark in vineyards, particularly in cooler climates where frost, hail and excessive rain can threaten grape production.

Hoop houses offer numerous advantages for vineyards. They enable grapevines to develop in early spring and extend the season into the fall. By trapping heat radiated from the ground, hoop houses maintain higher nighttime temperatures, protecting tender buds and blossoms from frost damage. These structures also moderate temperature fluctuations, reduce wind exposure and shield vines from excessive rain and hail, creating a stable and favorable environment. This improves fruit quality, as consistent temperatures and protection from adverse weather conditions enhance ripening and flavor development.

Additionally, hoop houses can limit exposure to pests and diseases, allowing for more targeted management practices. They enable growers to experiment with or cultivate varieties that require warmer conditions in regions where traditional grape varieties struggle.

Compared to traditional vineyard structures, hoop houses are easier to maintain, less costly to construct and can be adjusted or moved if necessary.

With its cold winters and unpredictable weather, Michigan has seen some vineyards adopt hoop houses to mitigate these challenges. Notable examples include Left Foot Charley in Traverse City, Rove Estate on the Leelanau Peninsula and Mari Vineyards on the Old Mission Peninsula. These vineyards demonstrate the significant benefits hoop houses can bring to northern climate viticulture, enabling the production of high-quality grapes despite environmental challenges. Mari Vineyards has taken the use of hoop houses to new heights with their proprietary system called ‘Nella Serra,’ meaning “in the greenhouse” in Italian. Approximately six acres of their red grapes are cultivated under these tunnel systems.

The use of hoop houses in vineyards is a topic of debate within the industry. While some vineyards stick to traditional methods and see hoop houses as an unnatural way to control the weather, others see them as a practical and cost-effective solution to environmental challenges, improve grape production and enhance yield and quality. Michigan’s Mari Vineyards is at the forefront of employing hoop houses, showing potential for the future of grape cultivation. Time will tell whether this approach has become more widely adopted or remains on the cutting edge of grape-growing techniques.

– Jennifer Primrose

Hoop Houses at Mari Vineyards.

Photos by Two Twisted Trees Photography.

DISCOVER BLACK STAR FARMS

A slice of elegance that delivers wine, hospitality and much more!

BY JENNIFER PRIMROSE

PHOTOS BY BLACK STAR FARMS

Black Star Farms Vineyard & Winery in Suttons Bay epitomizes winemaking excellence and hospitality. Our journey through the region’s wineries began here, where we had the pleasure of meeting Kimberly Zacharias, a cornerstone of Black Star Farms for the past 17 years. With her extensive experience and deep-rooted passion for the winery, Zacharias has worn many hats—from coordinating promotions and managing off-site events to serving as the winery ambassador and hosting estate tours.

She enthusiastically told us that Black Star Farms would be featured in its first AMAWaterways wine cruise: “We’re going to be the first Michigan winery featured on an AMAWaterways wine cruise to Europe. It’s going from Basel, Switzerland to Amsterdam through the Rhine and Moselle rivers, and I get to go and represent the winery.”

Her journey with Black Star began as a member of the Suttons Bay tasting room staff, and her dedication has since become a vital part of Black Star’s story. As Zacharias graciously guided us through the property, her enthusiasm for Black Star Farms and the rich history of Michigan wine was palpable.

We explored the luxurious ten-room inn, discovered the estate’s many offerings and learned about the grape varietals and wine styles produced at the winery. Amid this, Zacharias led us through a wine tasting, her knowledge illuminating each pour and flavor profile. The experience was a testament to the meticulous craftsmanship and vibrant community that Black Star Farms embodies, making it a must-visit destination for wine enthusiasts and casual visitors alike.

HISTORY OF BLACK STAR FARMS

Beginning as a barn in 1897, Black Star Farms has become a destination for wine, food and nature lovers while creating a bond among like-minded guests. The journey began when the original owners transformed a farmhouse into an equestrian facility and bed & breakfast. The original owners moved out of the property in the late 1980s, marking a significant transition into this modern-day winery estate.

Zacharias takes a step back to when it started, explaining, “In 1969, the first wine grapes were planted on this peninsula, but those were French hybrid grapes.” However, in 1974, Ed O’Keefe at Chateau Grand Traverse planted the first Riesling grapes, which became Michigan’s signature grape, marking the real beginning of the region’s wine industry. At that time, only a few wineries existed, including Leelanau Cellars and Mawby Vineyards. And it was Mawby, which initially started with still wines before focusing on sparkling wines.

One of O’Keefe’s first vineyards was on Black Star’s original property in Suttons Bay on the Leelanau Peninsula, officially founded in 1998. Donald Coe and Kerm Campbell were the original owners of Black Star. Today, the sole proprietors are Kerm and Sallie Campbell, following Coe’s retirement in 2015.

While living in Europe in the 1970s, the Campbells developed a taste for fine wine. Twenty years later, they relocated to northern Michigan and grew their first grapes on the Old Mission Peninsula. In 1998, Kerm Campbell and Donald Coe became owners of Sport Valley Farm, a 120-acre Kentucky-style equestrian estate. They soon recognized the potential of this land as a winery with the surrounding charm of northern Michigan’s lakeshore.

They chose the name Black Star Farms, inspired by the black star embossed in the marble foyer of the estate house, now the Inn at Black Star Farms. To realize their dream of owning a top-tier winery, they enlisted the expertise of winemaker Lee Lutes, making him a part owner in 1998. Zacharias reflects, “Winemakers tend to move around a lot like chefs. They have their craft, and then they get offered more money at a bigger winery. Well, Kerm, the owner, knew that, so he gave him stock in the winery. So now he’s part owner.” This commitment to quality and continuity is a testament to the winery’s dedication to excellence.

In 2007, they opened another winery and tasting room on the Old Mission Peninsula, which used to be Underwood Farms. This new location houses a state-of-the-art wine processing and distilling facility and a tasting room.

Over the years, Black Star Farms has flourished into a renowned destination in northern Michigan Wine Country. The estate, nuzzled on a 160-acre property, today boasts a luxury inn, two wine processing facilities with adjoining tasting rooms, a distillery, a farm-to-table café, an equestrian facility and hiking trails. The wines have garnered state, national and international acclaim for their exceptional quality, a testament to the winery’s growth and success.

THE INN AT BLACK STAR FARMS

The Inn at Black Star Farms, a unique gem modeled after a Kentucky estate, stands out with its exclusive equestrianinspired design. Nestled among local wineries, beaches, and winter sports destinations, the inn provides a tranquil escape for guests. Under the management of David Avis, who brings 30 years of experience in the service and hospitality industry, the inn offers exceptional customer service, ensuring every stay is memorable. In 2020, USA Today’s 10 Best Readers’ Choice Awards voted it the best wine country hotel.

The Inn at Black Star Farms is dedicated to ensuring a memorable stay for each guest, offering a range of

personalized touches and luxurious amenities. Each guest is welcomed with a bottle of wine in their room, complete with a custom label featuring their name. Mornings start with a delicious, freshly prepared breakfast, while evenings bring the chance to socialize in the Night Hospitality Lounge, where guests can enjoy wine, small bites, and friendly conversation. During their stay, guests enjoy complimentary wine tastings and exclusive discounts on all purchases. For those who enjoy the outdoors, the estate features three miles of on-site trails and outdoor seating, including inviting rocking chairs on the front patio, perfect for taking in the stunning surroundings.

The inn features ten beautifully appointed rooms, each with a warm and inviting atmosphere. Room options include urban-contemporary styles, scenic views, tworoom suites, a honeymoon suite, apartment suites and accessible rooms catering to a variety of guest preferences. Recently renovated and updated, these rooms provide a fresh and comfortable experience. Whether you’re seeking a romantic weekend or a peaceful retreat, The Inn at Black Star Farms offers the perfect blend of luxury and coziness.

PAGES 22-23: The patio behind The Inn at Black Star Farms is an excellent location for some of the winery’s special events and a great place for wine tasting with your friends.

PAGE 24: The Inn at Black Star Farms features ten rooms, ranging from standard rooms to two-room suites and honeymoon suites.

THIS PAGE: The Pegasus Barn is perfect for private events such as social gatherings and wedding parties. While on the property at Black Star Farms, be sure to partake in activities outdoors, such as hiking or riding a bike along the vines. Black Star Farms features many different awardwinning styles of wines, but one of its most popular wines is its Arcturos Pinot Noir.

WEDDINGS & EVENTS

Black Star Farms offers a beautiful setting for weddings and events, catering to various preferences and styles. The scenic hilltop vineyard provides a stunning backdrop for outdoor ceremonies right among the vines, making it a popular choice for couples seeking a natural and romantic atmosphere.

For those desiring an indoor venue, the estate features several charming spaces, such as the Arcturos room, perfect for small to medium-sized events and the Aquarius room, the largest and most sought-after venue for weddings. The historic Pegasus Barn, built in 1897 and renovated in 2013, offers a rustic yet elegant setting with its original barn wood walls and solid wood floors. The covered patio behind the inn, with its landscaped courtyard and serene vineyard views and the stone patio, with its raised platform altar and charming treehouse, provide intimate and unique outdoor weddings and event options. The barn courtyard, overlooking the farm and horse paddocks adds to the scenic location. Black Star Farms also hosts private wine dinners, parties, cocktail receptions and wine and dinner receptions, ensuring a memorable experience for all guests.

BISTRO POLARIS

Bistro Polaris is the on-site restaurant at Black Star Farms, offering both indoor seating and an outdoor patio. It was initially part of the equestrian facility and was renovated in 2007 to become a farmer’s market. Adding a wood-fired oven turned it into a popular dining spot. In 2023, the restaurant was rebranded as Bistro Polaris and welcomed a new chef, John Korycki, known for his Italian and Mediterranean-influenced menu. Highlighting Neapolitanstyle pizza, the restaurant is also available as a venue for smaller parties, rehearsal dinners and intimate gatherings.

THE WINEMAKER

Lee Lutes, the winemaker at Black Star Farms since its inception in 1998, brings a unique journey to the northern Michigan wine industry. Unlike traditional winemakers, his path began with a business degree from Michigan State University and a career in fine dining in New York City. As Zacharias notes, “He has kind of an interesting story because he really didn’t go to school for winemaking. He got a degree in business and finance and graduated from Michigan State University in 1987. He went to New York City and started working in fine dining, and that’s where he got the wine bug. He started experimenting with making wine in his apartment in New York City and discovered he had a passion for it.”

This newfound passion propelled Lutes to explore winemaking in Italy’s Piedmont region, where he served as an assistant winemaker at Abbazia di Valle Chiara. Returning to northern Michigan, Lutes honed his skills at Peninsula Cellars before joining Black Star Farms. His innovative spirit and comprehensive understanding of wine production have been instrumental in shaping Black Star Farms’ acclaimed portfolio. Today, he oversees all winemaking operations across Black Star Farms’ processing facilities in the Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsulas. His innovative approach extends to directing the distillation program and producing European-style fruit brandies and dessert wines that enhance Black Star Farms’ portfolio in the market.

WINE PRODUCTION

Black Star Farms excels in wine production amidst northern Michigan’s favorable “lake effect” climate, ideal for cultivating classic vinifera grape varieties like Chardonnay, Riesling, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir. This renowned winery also produces a diverse array

of varietals, including Pinot Gris, Gamay Noir, Merlot, Marquette, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Riesling, Gewürztraminer and more.

Benefiting from its own vineyards and local grower partnerships on Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsulas, Black Star Farms consistently produces between 35,000 and 45,000 cases annually.

While the region’s lake effect snow acts as a crucial insulator, protecting rootstock during harsh winters, challenges arise in years with minimal snowfall, which reduces insulation effectiveness. White wines are meticulously crafted at the Old Mission Peninsula site, while all red wines benefit from focused production at their Suttons Bay location.

CHALLENGES

Like many wineries, Black Star Farms has faced challenges over the years. One significant challenge has been Mother Nature’s unpredictability, notably during the polar vortex winters of 2014 and 2015. These extreme weather events brought prolonged subzero temperatures, severely impacting grapevines and leading to substantial crop losses.

They sometimes source from southwest Michigan, preferably leveraging its more temperate climate to mitigate northern Michigan’s frost risks while staying true as a Michigan winery utilizing only Michigan grapes.

Like other boutique-style wineries, Michigan wine producers also contend with fierce competition from large California wineries that can undercut prices. Despite this competition, there is a growing recognition of the importance of local wines, especially in tourist areas like the Traverse City region.

Black Star Farms is an outstanding presence in Michigan’s wine industry. It is a wine-lovers destination worth exploring, from its humble beginnings in a transformed farmhouse to the expansive estate it is today.

The estate’s impact extends beyond its award-winning wines to encompass an inn, a distillery producing fruitbased brandies and a renowned farm-to-table bistro.

The future holds promise for further accolades and expansion, driven by a dedication to crafting exceptional wines and creating memorable experiences. Our journey through Black Star Farms has left a lasting impression, inspiring us to revisit and indulge in their exceptional wines year-round, a testament to their enduring legacy in Michigan’s wine country.

OPPOSITE PAGE: Step inside the Black Star Farms tasting room for a unique experience in award-winning wines and spirits.

AWARDS

The winery has garnered numerous awards, solidifying its reputation around the world

Black Star Farms accolades come from prestigious competitions such as the American Fine Wine Competition, the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition and the Canberra International Riesling Challenge.

In 2023, Black Star Farms achieved notable success at the Canberra International Riesling Challenge, an event that focuses on the Riesling grape and attracts entries from around the globe. Competing against 500 other Rieslings worldwide, Black Star Farms received three awards for its 2021 Arcturos Dry Riesling (95, Elite), 2022 Arcturos Semi-Dry Riesling (91, Premium), and the 2020 Arcturos ‘Solstice’ Riesling (95, Elite).

Other awards received by Black Star Farms include:

• 2016 Arcturos Semi-Dry Riesling, Best in Show White, 2019 American Fine Wine Competition

• 2017 Arcturos Dry Riesling, Best of Show, Best Dry Riesling, and Best American Riesling, 2018 Canberra International Riesling Challenge

• 2021 Arcturos Dry Riesling, Best of Class, 2023 American Fine Wine Competition

• 2021 Arcturos Dry Riesling, Gold, 2023 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition

• 2020 Arcturos Pinot Blanc, Gold, 2023 American Fine Wine Competition

• 2020 Arcturos Pinot Blanc, Silver, 2023 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition

• 2020 Arcturos Gamay Noir, Silver, 2023 American Fine Wine Competition

• 2020 Arcturos Solstice Riesling, Silver, 2023 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition

These awards underscore the winery’s commitment to excellence and ability to produce wines that stand out nationally and internationally.

BRENGMAN BROTHERS WINERY

A Legacy of Grit, Growth and Grapes

BY JENNIFER PRIMROSE

PHOTOS BY JENNIFER PRIMROSE & DATHAN KAZSUK

Nestled on the 45th parallel, where the cool breezes from the Great Lakes temper the climate, Brengman Brothers Winery is more than just a vineyard—it’s a testament to family, resilience and the pursuit of perfection in winemaking. The story of Brengman brothers is as much about the people behind the wines as it is about the wines themselves.

In a large family of eight boys and five girls, Ed and Robert Brengman are the only two siblings involved in the winery, making their dream a reality in 2003 upon purchasing Crain Hill Vineyard. Yet, the entire family’s spirit seems to infuse the vineyard. The wines tell stories—like the white blend named after their eldest sibling who played football at Eastern Michigan University. Their brother’s memory lives on in this beautiful blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Viognier. As Ed recounts his brother’s time on the field, it’s clear that this wine is more than a tribute—it’s a celebration of life and the bond that hold a family together. In 2024, as the winery celebrates 21 years, Brengman Brothers has revised its name to Brengman Family Wines to pay tribute to its staff and family legacy.

space has been filled, indicating the high demand for its wine and the quality behind it.

One of the standout wines is its Riesling Trocken. Robert Brengman describes it as a dry Riesling they’ve been striving to perfect, with the goal of making the best Riesling on the planet. The 2022 vintage recently earned a Best In Show with 96 points at the American Fine Wine Competition, a testament to the winery’s dedication to quality. The wine’s low sulfur content, good pH and natural defenses mean it doesn’t require many chemicals, which Robert is particularly proud of. “We believe in letting the wine speak for itself,” he explains, “and that means minimal intervention and maximum respect for the grapes.”

Embracing Indigenous Yeast

The Craft of Winemaking Brengman Brothers Winery is committed to excellence, which is evident in its winemaking approach. It utilizes concrete and stainless steel tanks that play a crucial role in the winery’s operations, helping to shape the distinct styles of wine it produces. The winery is planning an expansion, intending to add a cave to accommodate its growing needs. Over the past three years, every tank and

A significant part of Brengman Brothers’ winemaking process is its commitment to using indigenous yeast. Over the past three years, the winery shifted all its wines, including reds, to this method. This decision was inspired by some of the great French wines also made with indigenous yeast. Robert recalls, “We did a small batch and let it go, watched it, and learned from it. We realized, holy smokes, it’s better. It does a better job than our commercial yeast on everything we tasted with that 60-gallon batch of Riesling Trocken.”

By 2022, the winery scaled up its production using indigenous yeast, and by 2023, every bottle coming out of Brengman Brothers Winery was made with this natural yeast. Robert is clear that this method won’t change the vintage every year; instead, the climate and the chemistry

of the grapes will influence the wine. However, the commitment to indigenous yeast is a way to let the true character of the Leelanau Peninsula shine through in every glass.

The Influence of the Great Lakes

The winery’s location near the Great Lakes offers natural protection for the vinifera grapes. Despite being on the 45th parallel, this area enjoys a cool climate rather than a cold one, thanks to the moderating effect of the nearby water. While vinifera grapes are vulnerable to damage at 0 degrees, the Brengmans don’t see that kind of extreme temperature anymore. Snow blankets the vines, acting as an insulating layer that further protects the grapes.

“We’re on a discovery generation,” says Robert, noting that while Europe has had ten generations to figure out what works, Michigan and the U.S., in general, are just beginning to understand the potential of their terroir.

Exploring Spirits: A New Venture

In addition to its renowned wines, Brengman Brothers Winery is venturing into the world of spirits, broadening its portfolio and showcasing its versatility as a producer. Its approach to crafting spirits mirrors the meticulous care it applies to its winemaking process, focusing on quality ingredients and innovative techniques.

Introducing spirits, including brandy and rye whiskey, represents a natural extension of its winemaking expertise. By distilling the same high-quality grapes used in its wines, the winery can create rich, complex spirits deeply rooted in the terroir of the Leelanau Peninsula. These spirits offer an additional layer to the Brengman Brothers experience, inviting wine enthusiasts and spirit connoisseurs alike to explore the full range of what this unique terroir can produce. Just try the brandy (which they call Cone Yak), and you’ll taste the quality of drinks such as the Riesling Grape Brandy, Gewurztraminer Grape Brandy and its coffee brandy.

A New Generation of Winemaking

Ryan Tompke, who has been the assistant winemaker for the past three vintages, represents a new wave of winemakers. A pre-med student from Traverse City, Ryan’s path to winemaking wasn’t straightforward. After realizing that medicine wasn’t his true calling, he returned home and took a summer job in the wine industry. Pouring wine behind the bar, Ryan discovered a passion for winemaking, fueled by his background in chemistry and science. The transition wasn’t immediate, but as the COVID-19 pandemic unfolded, he found himself drawn deeper into the world of wine. Encouraged by a mentor who saw parallels between his pre-med studies and winemaking, Ryan dove into the craft with full force

Looking to the Future

As Brengman Brothers Winery grows, its commitment to quality and innovation remains at the forefront. Expansion plans are in place to accommodate their increasing production, but the focus remains on producing the best possible wines and spirits. The winery’s success isn’t just about making great wine—it’s about understanding the land, the climate and the people who make it all happen. Whether it’s the memory of a beloved sibling, the exploration of spirits or the mentorship of a young winemaker, the stories behind the wines and spirits at Brengman Brothers are as rich and complex as the products themselves.

PAGE 28 : Brengman Brothers tasting room in Traverse City is a great place for wine, spirits and food.

PAGE 29: Robert Brengman prepares to grab some wine samples from one of the stainless steel tanks.

THIS PAGE: The Screw it Wine team gets a photo with Robert Brengman and Ryan Tompke.

OPPOSITE PAGE: Be sure to try popular picks at Brengman such as the Cone Yak, the 2021 Merlot and the white wine blend, duhGüDsht. Stainless Steel tanks are used for many of the winery’s white wines.

ABOVE: 2 Lads Winery is on 58 acres near the end of the Old Mission Peninsula. Visitors can sit inside the 10,500-square-foot facility or lounge outside while tasting.

RIGHT: Open seasonally, The Secret Garden at Brys Estate boasts over 6,000 lavender plants, a gift shop and a picnic area to enjoy the beautiful scenery

OLD MISSION PENINSULA

Explore the Endless Possibilities

BY JENNIFER PRIMROSE

Discovering the spectacular wineries of Michigan’s Old Mission Peninsula

Nestled between the crystal-clear waters of Lake Michigan’s Grand Traverse Bay, Traverse City is a beloved year-round haven for travelers. Just to the north lies the Old Mission Peninsula, a gem stretching 19 miles long and 3 miles wide along the 45th parallel. This narrow strip of land boasts a panoramic landscape of rolling vineyards, cherry orchards and apple trees, all accessible via the scenic M-37 route.

The Old Mission Peninsula is not just a feast for the eyes but a delight for the palate, home to 11 distinct wineries that produce an impressive array of wines. The peninsula’s unique terroir and microclimate make it ideal for cultivating fruit wines and classic vinifera varietals. Established as an American Viticultural Area (AVA) in June 1987, the Old Mission Peninsula AVA is renowned for its high-quality Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The region’s cold winters also produce beautiful Ice Wine, a sweet, concentrated wine made from grapes naturally frozen on the vine. With such a variety and quality of wines, the Old Mission Peninsula is a wine lover’s paradise.

PHOTOS BY DATHAN KAZSUK & JENNIFER PRIMROSE

RIGHT: Originally a horse farm, Bowers Harbor Vineyards was established in 1991 and features more than 20 acres of vinifera vines.

BELOW: Mari Vineyards grows a variety of red and white wines with a hearty Italian hertiage.

OPPOSITE PAGE: Chateau Chantal features over 75 breathtaking acres of land and vines overlooking both bays on the Old Mission Peninsula. At Tabone Vineyards you’ll find estate grown wines as well as unique wine cocktails.

BLACK STAR FARMS

A tour through the wine country of Old Mission Peninsula begins north of Traverse City at Black Star Farms Old Mission. Situated at 360 McKinley Road East, Black Star Farms has an additional Suttons Bay location and a Frankenmuth satellite tasting room. Established in 2007, Black Star Farms focuses primarily on its renowned white wines at the Old Mission location, which serves as a wine processing facility. Guests can choose from over 13 different white wines and various reds, sparkling wines, dessert wines, ports and fruit wines.

MARI VINEYARDS

Just a mile down the road at 8175 Center Road is Mari Vineyards, founded by Marty Lagina of History Channel’s The Curse of Oak Island fame. Mari Vineyards was the first northern Michigan winery to boast a wine cave akin to those in Napa Valley, which provides stable temperatures for the winemaking process— the winery also incorporates hoop houses to help keep a variety of its vines in a controlled temperature during the colder months. This innovative winery produces spectacular wines from up to 20 different varietals, including Cabernet Franc, Pinot Bianco and Ice Wine.

HAWTHORNE VINEYARDS

A five-minute drive from Mari Vineyards brings you to Hawthorne Vineyards at 1000 Camino Maria Drive. This family-owned winery sits on an 80-acre farm with deep ties to northern Michigan, dating back to the 1800s. Hawthorne Vineyards offers a secluded wine-tasting experience on its outdoor patio overlooking West Grand Traverse Bay, featuring varietals such as Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Gamay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and cider.

PENINSULA CELLARS

Further along at 11480 Center Road, Peninsula Cellars resides in the historic Maple Grove School. Founded in 1991 with its first vines planted at the Kroupa Estate, this charming winery offers wines by the glass, flight, or bottle. Visitors can enjoy a variety of wines, including Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir.

BONOBO WINERY

Half a mile down the road from Peninsula Cellars is Bonobo Winery at 12011 Center Road. This family-owned winery, with the slogan “Evolved yet Primal,” strives to educate its guests while providing an enjoyable experience. Bonobo Winery was founded by brothers Todd and Carter Oosterhouse. Some might recall Carter as a carpenter featured on the TCL series Trading Spaces. In its 19-acre vineyard, Bonobo Winery produces seven grape varieties, including Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc.

CHATEAU GRAND TRAVERSE

Chateau Grand Traverse, located at 12239 Center Road, is a beacon of Michigan’s winemaking success. Established in 1974, this family-owned winery is renowned for its exceptional Rieslings, which reflect the unique terroir of the 45th parallel. Visitors can enjoy stunning vineyard views, informative tours, and a welcoming tasting room with award-winning wines, ranging

from Chardonnay and late-harvest Riesling to robust reds like Pinot Noir Reserve, Merlot Reserve and Cabernet Franc.

BRYS ESTATE VINEYARD AND WINERY

Continue heading north for 2 miles to Brys Estate Vineyard and Winery at 3309 Blue Water Road. Brys Estate is a family-owned and operated dream realized after Walt and Eileen Brys visited Napa Valley in 1975. With South African winemaker Coenraad Stassen, Brys Estate produces red varietals such as Merlot, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc, and white varietals including Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Pinot Blanc and Gewürztraminer. After a tasting, visitors can explore the Secret Garden, a tranquil spot perfect for relaxing under the Michigan blue sky.

BOWERS HARBOR VINEYARDS

At 2896 Bowers Harbor Road, Bowers Harbor Vineyards has transformed a former horse farm into a flourishing vineyard since 1991. The tasting room occupies what was once the horse stable, and the

winery produces more than 30 wines and hard ciders. Varietals include Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Pinot Grigio, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. Bowers Harbor also offers vineyard tours and hikes along a nature trail.

TABONE VINEYARDS

Tabone Vineyards, located at 14916 Peninsula Drive, is the newest winery on the peninsula but has been growing grapes in Traverse City for 20 years. The tasting room offers roughly 17 wines, mostly white wines. Varietals include Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Rosé of Pinot Meunier and Riesling.

CHATEAU CHANTAL WINERY

High atop the peninsula with breathtaking views of both the East and West Grand Traverse Bay, Chateau Chantal Winery & Inn is located at 15900 Rue de Vin. With over 30 wines in its catalog, Chateau Chantal offers various styles, from Chardonnay, Riesling and Pinot Noir to estate Ice Wine, dessert wine (Entice), cherry wines, and a cherry port.

2 LADS WINERY

Lastly, 2 Lads Winery, situated at 16985 Smokey Hollow Road, combines bold flavors with a modern tasting room. This small production winery has 23 acres of vineyards and specializes in cool-climate dry red and sparkling wines. Visitors can also find white wines like Pinot Grigio and Riesling alongside red varietals like Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.

Traverse City and the Old Mission Peninsula capture the essence of Michigan’s natural beauty and viticultural excellence. Visitors inevitably fall in love with the area’s tranquil yet vibrant atmosphere, making it a must-visit destination for wine lovers and adventurers alike.

OPPOSITE PAGE: With such a beautiful view, we decided to take a selfie at Bonobo Winery, which is owned by Trading Spaces carpenter Carter Oosterhouse.

THIS PAGE: Peninsula Cellars Winery was once Maple Grove School, which explains a famous wine named Detention. Hawthorne Vineyards was founded by the owner’s love of wine and a beautiful tasting room.

DISCOVERING PETOSKEY

Unveiling the Charms of Michigan’s Tip of the Mitt AVA

BY JENNIFER PRIMROSE

Petosky, Michigan overlooks the Little Traverse Bay. Photo by Dathan Kazsuk.

Nestled in the northern lower peninsula of Michigan, the wineries of Petoskey find their home in the Tip of the Mitt AVA, an American Viticultural Area established in 2016. As Michigan’s largest AVA, this region stretches gracefully along the scenic Little Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan’s coastline, north of the 45th parallel.

The AVA’s challenging cold and lengthy winters have led local vintners to champion hybrid grape varietals bred for resilience and cold hardiness, including Marquette, Petite Pearl, Frontenac Noir, Lemberger, Traminette, Riesling and Cayuga, to name a few.

Long before the region gained notoriety for its vineyards, it was the summer sanctuary of the illustrious author Ernest Hemingway.

THIS PHOTO: Grab a flight of whites and a flight of reds at Mackinaw Trail Winery & Brewery—and don’t forget to try the beer.

BELOW: A sculpture of Ernest Hemmingway lies yards from the City Park Grill. Photos by Dathan Kazsuk.

Born in 1899 near Chicago, Hemingway spent his summers at Windemere, a quaint cottage on Walloon Lake, a mere ten miles south of Petoskey.

Following his return from World War I, Hemingway recuperated in Petoskey, honing his craft in the locale that would inspire his later works. His fondness for the area’s natural beauty and vibrant social scene, epitomized by the historic City Park Grill, adds a layer of literary charm to the region’s rich heritage.

Today, Petoskey stands as a beacon for wine enthusiasts, offering a diverse array of wineries that exude exceptional craftsmanship and draw visitors from across the globe. Among the noteworthy establishments is Mackinaw Trail Winery & Brewery, a family-owned enterprise established in 2004 that has quickly ascended to become one of Michigan’s most dynamic wineries. With four tasting rooms and a state-of-the-art production facility in Petoskey, it has garnered numerous awards and accolades, solidifying its reputation in the state’s wine industry.

Perched on 190 scenic acres, Rudbeckia Farm & Winery affords breathtaking views of Lake Michigan and Walloon Lake. This winery produces limited artisanal wines and

operates the Burnt Marshmallow nano-brewery, crafting select beers from ingredients cultivated on the family farm.

Walloon Lake Winery, another family-owned gem, thrives on the outskirts of Walloon Lake. This awardwinning winery produces wines from locally grown grapes at Dennis Farms Vineyards, offering a warm and inviting tasting room where guests can savor varietals such as Marquette, Frontenac, Petite Pearl, Sabrevois, Frontenac Gris, Frontenac Blanc and La Crescent.

Maple Moon Sugarbush & Winery is America’s pioneering maple winery. It transforms the pure natural sugars of maple syrup into a spectrum of wines ranging from sweet to dry. Maple Moon produces distinctive offerings such as Maple Marquette, Petite Pearl, Maple Rouge and Maple Royal, alongside hard ciders, homemade jams and salsa.

A short drive from downtown Petoskey, Petoskey Farms Vineyards presents a relaxed atmosphere overlooking the Michigan countryside and vineyards. This establishment provides an excellent selection of wines and ciders, including Riesling, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Frontenac Blanc, Rosé, Marquette, Frontenac, Sangria and unique creations like Frontenac

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At Rudbeckia Farm & Winery, you can try a selection of red and white wines. Also, check out Burnt Marshmallow Brewing for some of the latest beer styles.

Enjoy a kick back atmosphere at Boyne Valley Vineyards, inside it’s barn-inspired tasting room.

Finally, at Maple Moon Sugarbush & Winery, you’ll get to try America’s first maple wine, made 100 percent with maple syrup.

Blanc Pétillant Naturel and Marquette Piquette.

Recognized by Reader’s Digest as one of the Top 25 Best Wineries in the United States in 2021 and honored with TripAdvisor’s Travelers’ Choice Award in 2022, Petoskey Farms continues to charm wine lovers and critics alike.

A few minutes outside of downtown Petosky you’ll find Resort Pike Cidery & Winery. This small farm-style cidery features over 20 taps—featuring a great selection of awardwinning ciders as well as sparkling wines. This is a no frills barn, but worth visiting for its ciders.

The Tip of the Mitt AVA is a testament to the region’s ability to produce outstanding wines from cold-hardy grape varietals. Each winery offers a unique experience, inviting visitors to embark on an extended journey through this enchanting wine country.

Embark on a journey through Petoskey’s Tip of the Mitt AVA and immerse yourself in the captivating world of coldhardy varietals, artisanal craftsmanship, and the storied legacy of a region that continues to enchant and inspire.

OTHER SIGHTS TO SEE AROUND PETOSKY

Start your day at the infamous Johan’s Bakery, located at 565 West Mitchell Street. Since 1955, this bakery has offered

various pastries, bagels and other baked goods—but is known for its oven-fresh doughnuts.

After starting your day with a doughnut and coffee, it might be time for a morning walk. Head to Spring Lake Park (1590 Harbor Petoskey Road) just seven minutes down the road. This park sits on 22 acres along Spring Lake— where you can take a stroll along the boardwalk and take in the scenery. Be on the look out for ducks playing in the water, turtles basking in the sun and frogs sitting atop the lilypads. And if you are looking for something a little more adventerous, up the road you’ll find Petoskey State Park—a great place to search for Petoskey stones, or right near downtown, Bayfront Park.

The Backlot Beer Garden (425 Michigan Street) is a nice stop to grab a bite to eat. This outdoor “backlot” houses multiple food trucks such as Happy’s Taco Shop, Phoxy’s Phillies & Grindage, The Reel Deal Fish & Chips and Full Moon Pizza. Inside you’ll find a plethora of beers on tap, as well as hard ciders, wine by the glass, seltzers, cocktails and more.

Just down the road you’ll find Beards Brewery (215 East Lake Street), which was founded in 2012, with all its brews made onsite. Grab a flight of beer and light bar eats.

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Wineries around Petoskey have a lot of outdoor seating.

Wallon Lake Winery is a fourth generation family-owned winery nestled between the arms of Walloon Lake.

Try the many ciders at Resort Pike Cidery & Winery, and don’t forget to say hello to the mini goats.

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Make sure you try the award-winning Chicago burger at City Park Grill. Be sure to visit Petoskey Winery, where you can sit outside and enjoy a flight of wine and relax.

All these wineries are close to Bayfront Park, where you can take a stroll along the waterfront.

OTHER DISTINGUISHED WINERIES WITHIN THE TIP OF THE MITT AVA INCLUDE:

1 918 Cellars - Castle Farms

B lu Dot Farm & Vineyard

B oyne Valley Vineyards

C ellar 1914

C rooked Vine Vineyard & Winery

L ost Cellars

Pond Hill Farm Winery

R esort Pike Cidery & Winery

R oyal Farms Farm Market And Winery

S easons of the North

S pare Key Winery

T he Cellars at Royal Farms

stock.adobe.com

Hammocks Beach State Park on Bear Island in Onslow County, NC originated in a state-run effort to provide Black families with their own dedicated beach.

Photo by

- Eifel Kreutz

Beautiful Mountain

Grape Vines Galore!

Vinifera has called Leelanau Peninsula home since the late 1970s. Farming families such as the Simpsons of Good Harbor and the sparkling wine pioneer Larry Mawby are well versed in the long history of vines deeply rooted in the region. Both producers have experience since the 70s with varieties many said could never thrive in the state. Gleefully the region proved the naysayers wrong. Today both of the family brands are thriving as well. Good Harbor has expanded to brands such as Aurora Cellars and MAWBY has branched out to boast bigLittle Wines.

Expansion is not a stranger to the Michigan wine industry. Since 1991 the industry has experienced an over 1000% increase in wineries, today the state is home to over 190 wineries.

An iconic and influential swath of those 190 call the Old Mission Peninsula AVA home. This AVA, established in 1987, is yet another example of the breathtaking beauty found in northern Michigan. Nestled between the bays of Lake Michigan on the 45th parallel, Old Mission relies on the same lake effect as the other three AVAs previously introduced. The condense yet impactful AVA is only three miles wide at its maximum and 19 miles long with one road in and out.

Cozy indeed but indomitable nonetheless. This peninsula features grand views but also grand estates committed to propelling the Michigan wine industry forward. The second oldest winery on the peninsula, Chateau Chantel, lacks neither esteem or a great story, and great wine is often about great stories. Established by a former priest and nun who fell in love and left the church but found a home amongst the glory of northern Michigan and eventually the vines they were able to nurture to thrive there. In 1986, the family began the journey of establishing northern Michigan vinifera with Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and Pinot Noir. In tandem with other growers in the area planting vinifera this was a pivotal moment for Michigan wine. It cemented a legacy that is just now becoming realized across the country. Chateau Chantal is not an exaggeration in its title. The estate features a European inspired chateau that houses its production facility, a bed and breakfast, tasting room, event spaces, and more.

This grand aesthetic doesn’t stop with the Chateau. Just up the road Black Star Farms features another iconic and awe inspiring estate. They offer not only the expansive inn but also a farm to table restaurant, equestrian center, hiking trails, and the list goes on. With over 50 wines, ciders, and spirits Black Star offers something for any palate.

Keeping solidarity with the vibe of Old Mission, Mari Vineyards is another phenomenal example of wondrous architecture and innovative winemaking on the peninsula. This Italian inspired winery is committed to producing estate wines that pay homage to classic varieties such as Nebbiolo and Sangiovese while also leaning into varieties that are putting Michigan on the map like Cabernet Franc and Riesling. Utilizing hoop houses of their own proprietary design, Mari is steadfast in their mission to bridge tradition and innovation to craft modern wines for the current generation of wine drinkers. At the helm of their winemaking endeavors is a native of the peninsula, Sean O’Keefe, who grew up amongst some of the first vines on the peninsula at Chateau Grand Traverse. His own roots entwine with the newer vines at Mari to create an historic wine experience for the state. The physical building of Mari is modeled closely after the estates of Tuscany. Built with stone and the intention that the building will be there for hundreds of years, the building is a marvel. Additionally, visitors will marvel too the 8000 square feet of wine caves 17-35 feet underground with the Oculus as the literal centerpiece to bridge another

gap between the sleeping wines and the very lively vines above.

Finally, the newest AVA of Michigan is yet another example of modernity and innovation for the state. The Tip of the Mitt AVA, established in 2016, is also located further north than the other AVAs. Tip of the Mitt enjoys benefits such as increased growing degree days and a more pronounced frost buffer during the growing season. Also known as the Petoskey Wine Region, this area is home to over 15 wineries. One of the newest being Folklor Wine & Cider who is championing regenerative agriculture in the area and produce wines with some of the most distinct examples of Tip of the Mitt terroir in the region.

Generally an area of innovation for the state in terms of pioneering the newest grape varieties in the world, hybrid or cool climate grapes have fiercely taken root in the Tip of the Mitt. Mastering growing and winemaking with varieties such as Marquette, Frontenac Gris, La Crescent, and many other wine grapes coming from breeding programs excelling out of Minnesota and New York. This new region is on a trajectory to be an influence for emerging wine regions as they work to expand their viticultural prowess and make educated decisions on what to plant and where in addition to how to work with these new grapes in the cellar to craft quality wines.

While quality Michigan wine certainly starts in the vineyard and is finished in the cellars there is a lot more to sustaining a successful wine region. Organizations such as Michigan Wine Collaborative are working to build up the image of the region and solidify its place on the world stage of wine.

Most recently the organization launched the Taste Michigan brand to bring local wine to the forefront of the consumer’s minds as they traverse the state’s wine regions but also at their homebase restaurants and retailers. Taste Michigan has the mission of advocating, educating and inspiring people about all things Michigan wine and is doing so by way of billboard, radio, and print marketing in the state’s largest markets as well as establishing a social media presence with the focus of promoting individual winery events and news. A major campaign of the new brand includes the Cool is Hot campaign which highlights the importance of cool climate grape varieties that thrive in the state, from vinifera to hybrids, there is room and potential for excellence across the board with each of the varieties in each of the five AVAs and beyond.

There is much discussion on the opportunities to expand out from the current five AVAs and that opportunity means more Michigan wine, more innovation in cool climate viticulture, but especially increased esteem and notoriety for a region incredibly deserving of it. Michigan, in addition to many other emerging regions, holds the key to a successful and exciting future of American wine. Put Michigan at the top of your ‘must visit’ wine regions and make plans to experience all five AVAs and other pockets of wine country throughout the state as soon as possible to experience the renaissance currently happening in Michigan wine country.

Polenta con la Zucca Funchi e Raclette

Soft, creamy butternet squash, polenta with mushrooms and raclette cheese

This recipe comes from Chef John Korycki who helms Bistro Polaris at Black Star Farms Suttons Bay location.

POLENTA

5 cups water

4 tbsp. unsalted butter

1 tsp. kosher salt

1 cup cornmeal

1/2 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for grating

1 lb. butternut squash, peeled and cubed

3 tbsp. unsalted butter

1 tsp. kosher salt

MUSHROOM RAGU

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/2 stick unsalted butter, 2 ounces

2 cups assorted mushrooms, sliced: king trumpet shiitake, oyster, chanterelle, morels

1 tbsp. dried porcini mushrooms, ground

1 tsp. kosher salt

11/2 cups broth or water

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

1/4 cup f resh Italian flatleaf parsley, chopped

1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for grating

1/4 lb. Leelanau cheese Raclette, or Idyll Farms Gris or Camembert goat milk cheese

FOR POLENTA

In a medium sauce pot, bring 5 cups of water to a boil with one teaspoon of salt. Add one tablespoon of butter. Slowly sift cornmeal into the water, whisking constantly with a whisk. Lower the heat, cover the sauce pot with a lid, and slowly cook the polenta for 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.

At the same time, melt three tablespoons of butter in a separate sauce pot. Once the butter is bubbling, add cubed butternut squash and stir, seasoning lightly with salt. Adjust the heat to low, cover the pot with a lid, and slowly cook the squash until soft and tender, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes. When fully cooked, add the squash to the cooking polenta, stirring in to completely blend the two flavors.

Finish the polenta by stirring in the remaining butter and grated Parmigiano. Adjust seasoning with salt, as necessary.

FOR MUSHROOM RAGU

Heat olive oil and butter in a large sauté pan until bubbling hot. Add mushrooms, a layer at a time, into the pan. Keep sautéing over high heat, stirring lightly. Add the ground porcini powder to the mushrooms. As soon as the mushrooms become lightly brown, add another portion of the remaining mushrooms. When all the mushrooms have been added and lightly browned, season with salt to taste. Deglaze the pan with the broth, lowering the heat.

Let mushrooms simmer, cooking until tender, and pan juices thicken into a sauce. Finish the mushroom ragu by stirring in 2 tablespoons of butter, chopped parsley and Parmigiano cheese.

TO SERVE

Spoon the hot butternut squash polenta into warm bowls. Top each serving of polenta with grated Leelanau Raclette or a thick slice of Idyll Gris cheese. Spoon the mushroom ragu over the polenta and offer additional grated Parmigiano as desired.

Order your bottle of Arcturos Pinot Noir by scanning the QR code, and check out other award winning wines from Black Star Farms.

Photos courtesy of Black Star Farms

A MICHIGAN NATIVE’S RETURN TO WINE COUNTRY

BY JENNIFER PRIMROSE

Growing up in southeast Michigan, my journey took me from elementary school classrooms to a short stint at Western Michigan University. Eventually, craving a change, I found myself in Raleigh, known as the City of Oaks. Back in Michigan, my relationship with wine was quite different. Like many in their early twenties, my introduction to wine came through the notorious Beringer White Zinfandel As time passed, my tastes evolved and so did my wine experiences. This evolution in my wine journey included visits to wineries, regular tastings, wine education, and of course, Screw It Wine & Spirits, our passion project.

We have been excited to discover the diverse wine regions across the United States. The thought of potential flights to Europe or other destinations to explore the wine world further is always on our minds. Reflecting on missed opportunities, like the trip to South Africa a few years ago, only fuels our anticipation for the unexpected opportunities that may come our way.

So far, we’ve traveled to several places in the US. In Virginia, we’ve explored Loudoun County, Williamsburg and Charlottesville. In California, we experienced Napa Valley, Sonoma and stops outside of Gilroy. We also journeyed through Michigan, visiting the Old Mission Peninsula, Leelanau Peninsula and Petoskey. During our road trips, we’ve visited wineries in Ohio, South Carolina and Florida.

Now that North Carolina is our home, we have had the opportunity to explore the state’s diverse offerings, immerse ourselves in the wine industry and have fun. Our travels have taken us from the coast to the mountains, allowing us to experience the indigenous muscadine grape and the European vinifera as we traverse North Carolina.

In 2012, during an annual visit to family in the Fall, we turned the trip into a vacation and headed “up north” to Traverse City. I hadn’t been there since childhood, and as a wine-loving adult, I was thrilled to discover Michigan’s burgeoning wine country. Our trip included climbing the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore dunes and embarking on an official Michigan wine tour.

We visited renowned wineries on the Old Mission Peninsula, such as Black Star Farms, Chateau Grand

Traverse and Chateau Chantal. Following our adventure at Sleeping Bear Dunes, we visited Cherry Republic, Good Harbor and MAWBY for some delightful sparkling wine. These are memories forever etched in my mind.

Northern Michigan in the autumn of that year was so impressive that we couldn’t wait to return, and we did in the summer of 2014. This time, we returned to Old Mission Peninsula to visit Bowers Harbor Vineyards, Brys Estate Winery and Peninsula Cellars.

During the pandemic year in 2020, we returned once again to Old Mission Peninsula. Despite the unique experience due to new regulations, mask-wearing and downpours, we still enjoyed our trip. We visited Mari Vineyards, Tabone Vineyards and Bonobo Winery and returned to some of our old favorites.

In 2022, we explored the Charlevoix area and discovered the wineries of Petoskey, which belong to the Tip of the Mitt AVA. We visited seven of the fourteen wineries and made unforgettable memories, such as meeting someone familiar with JOLO Winery in Pilot Mountain, North Carolina. Wine truly brings people together; many of our current friends are those we met at wineries or bottleshops. We had a fantastic time learning about and trying the hybrid grape varietals known in this region.

Our latest trip in 2024 was nothing short of spectacular. Once again, we decided to head back to Traverse City as I was starting to feel homesick for this northern beach town. The hospitality we received was nothing short of incredible, and we had the pleasure of meeting representatives from Black Star Farms, Rove Winery, Brengman Brothers, Mawby and Mari Vineyards.

Traverse City and Petoskey have been our primary focus, but there’s much more to explore along the Lake Michigan Shore. After covering North Carolina’s wine industry for over a decade, it has been refreshing to delve deeper into my home state’s burgeoning wine scene. Though I wish these wineries were just a short drive away, I eagerly anticipate my next visit to Michigan Wine Country.

We hope you enjoy this special issue of Screw It Wine as we bring the Michigan wine industry to you. There is much more to uncover, so we’re confident this will not be our only issue dedicated to this northern wine region.

Until next time, Michigan—we’ll be back!