Hospitality May 2019

NO.753 MAY 2019

SOCIAL ENTERPRISE BUSINESSES • WHY MILK IS MAKE OR BREAK • ARTHUR RESTAURANT

CONTENTS // May

Contents MAY 2019

12

Regulars 5 // IN FOCUS Meet the woman changing the way chefs dress in the kitchen.

6 // NEWS The latest in openings, books, events and more.

8 // PRODUCE A look at shiso.

10 // COLUMN Saskia Beer’s battle with brand leveraging.

16

12 // BUSINESS PROFILE How Arthur is changing Sydney’s dining landscape.

16 // DRINKS Why dairy isn’t the enemy.

24 // BEHIND THE SCENES How to make Ol’ School’s fish and chips.

18

Features 18 // SOCIAL ENTERPRISE Businesses are giving back to the communities they operate within.

22 // WAREWASHING Choosing the right washer can increase productivity.

25 // EQUIPMENT Why the right paddle grater is your secret weapon in the kitchen.

26 // 5 MINUTES WITH …

Alejandro Cancino from Lola’s Pantry.

11 // BEST PRACTICE Commune Group’s Simon Blacher on branding.

May 2019 | 3

EDITOR’S NOTE // Hello

Social

Keep up with the Hospitality team

CHEERS! Enjoying a glass of Taittinger at the Court of Master Sommelier’s Sydney graduation ceremony. @madeline.woolway

Think small

BANH XEO BAR Roast pork shoulder banh mi with Ben’s pâte, herbs, pickled carrot, mayo and chili is always a winner in my books. @annabellecloros

THE DINING PUBLIC has developed a

new, Arthur’s take is more casual and

penchant for choice, with the proverb

emulates the experience of dining out with

‘the bigger, the better’ reverberating

friends, where you end up with a range of

throughout the industry. Personally, I believe

dishes on the table.

the enjoyment of going out for a meal has

Have you been to a restaurant or bought

become a little lost in the midst of sprawling

a food product that doubles as a social

food precincts and DIY concepts.

enterprise? Madeline Woolway talks to the

But there’s a group of venues doing

brains behind The Bread & Butter Project and

things differently in the era of choice. This

Charcoal Lane about how they’re helping the

issue, I interviewed Tristan Rosier, chef and

community and addressing the skills shortage

owner of Sydney’s Arthur restaurant. The

while running successful businesses.

restaurant has been making a name for itself thanks to its set-up which forgoes a

Until next time,

la carte and offers a set menu only. While

Annabelle Cloros

chef menus and degustations are nothing

Editor

NEW DIRECTION Mamasita’s head chef Martin Zozaya has been busy revamping the menu. Pictured is the Acapulco tostada. @hospitalitymagazine

Follow us @hospitalitymagazine #hospitalitymagazine

PUBLISHER Paul Wootton pwootton@intermedia.com.au EDITOR Annabelle Cloros T: 02 8586 6226 acloros@intermedia.com.au JOURNALIST Madeline Woolway T: 02 8586 6194 mwoolway@intermedia.com.au

ADVERTISING NATIONAL Dan Shipley T: 02 8586 6163 F: 02 9660 4419 dshipley@intermedia.com.au GROUP ART DIRECTOR – LIQUOR AND HOSPITALITY Kea Thorburn kthorburn@intermedia.com.au PRODUCTION MANAGER Jacqui Cooper jacqui@intermedia.com.au

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4 | Hospitality

IN FOCUS // Uniforms

Maxine Thompson

Tailor made

Female uniforms are in the spotlight thanks to chef and designer Maxine Thompson.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros

MAXINE THOMPSON HAS

immediately noticed a

worked as a chef in New York

difference. “I walked out to

in Australia, but there was one

speak to people and when I

issue that just wouldn’t quit —

came back into the kitchen the

her uniform. Standard issue chef

other chefs were like, ‘Wow you

pants are often one size fits all,

seem like a totally different

which doesn’t work for a lot of

person today; you’re working

people, especially women, so

so much better’. I felt more

Thompson decided to tackle

confident in the way I looked and

the problem head-on with the

it came through in my cooking.

launch of PolkaPants.

If you feel comfortable in what

The culinary industry is constantly changing, so why shouldn’t the same notion apply

you’re wearing, you’re going to be a lot more productive.”

There are a number of design

to uniforms? When Thompson

components that set PolkaPants

was running dishes from the

apart from the competition.

kitchen to the floor during

First, the pants are high-waisted,

her time at Ethos restaurant

which is a flattering and

in Tasmania, her uniform

practical cut for women in the

would easily catch on pieces

kitchen. Chefs are able to bend

of furniture, and by the time

down or reach up without having

she made it to the diner, her

to worry about flashing any skin.

confidence was lacking. “We

“They also come in cropped,

had to talk about the process

so people can show off their

print, which are a firm departure

behind each dish and I found

patterned socks, or longer if

from the norm. “People are really

including Analiese Gregory from

it so uncomfortable,” she says.

restaurants are concerned about

enjoying the prints because

Franklin and Ruth Rogers from

“The pants would get hooked on

workers covering their ankles,”

it can bring some of your

The River Café as fans, and

tables as we were running past

says Thompson. “They also have

personality into the kitchen — it’s

there’s plenty more to come.

or they’d roll down and you’d

belt loops on the back so you

nice to have an element of fun

“We’re doing a collaboration

trip — it was so impractical. They

can hook a dish cloth and there’s

in your uniform,” says Thompson.

with Worktones and another with

weren’t designed to fit the body

a pocket at the back for spoons,

The pants are made from 97

a US label which will be out in

of a female.”

notepads or phones.”

per cent cotton and 3 per cent

spring,” says Thompson. “People

elastane instead of polyster,

are excited there’s something

After Thompson designed

PolkaPants come in a range

The brand counts chefs

and produced the first pair

of colours and patterns such as

which isn’t as durable and

specifically designed for workers

of PolkaPants, her colleagues

houndstooth, leopard and cherry

contributes to overheating.

in the industry.” ■ May 2019 | 5

NEWS // Entrée

Entrée

Single-origin perilla oil Table 181 supplies some of Sydney’s best restaurants with artisan Korean ingredients, and the team has

The latest openings, books, events and more.

recently added perilla oil from Jirisan Jeollanam-do, South Korea, to the

EDITED BY Annabelle Cloros

fold. Raw perilla seeds are coldpressed, resulting in notes of tea and nuts. Table 181’s Paul Lee says the oil is well-rounded and coats the entire palate, creating a lingering flavour. Available in 50ml and 160ml. table181australia.moonfruit.com

Got the blues Sttoke is celebrating their first birthday with the launch of a magnetic blue cup. The reusable cups are made from shatter-proof stainless steel and feature double-walled vacuum insulation to ensure optimum beverage temperature. The colourway is available from 15 May at leading cafes and retailers. RRP $39.95. sttoke.com

Breakfast hacks Chefs Eat Breakfast Too Darren Purchese $29.99; Hardie Grant Books Chef Darren Purchese has released the pro’s guide to starting the day right with his book, Chefs Eat Breakfast Too.

Lover Latte launches

Covering sweet and savoury applications, recipes include chicken congee with crispy doughnuts, chocolate streusel brioche, the perfect omelette and crumpets. hardiegrant.com/au

Sydney-based beverage company Lover Latte has debuted a range made from natural ingredients, with flavours including Earthy Beets, Mighty Matcha, Boosted Spirulina and Golden Turmeric. The flavours are available in café-friendly pump-serve recyclable packaging and can be purchased directly or through the Hum platform. loverlatte.com.au

Nighthawk’s new menu Nighthawk Diner has unveiled a revamped menu which revolves around modern American diner food. Owner and executive chef Alistair Fogg and his team have added a sandwich selection to the Chippendale eatery’s menu including Chicago Italian beef with giardiniera and Nighthawk sauce and potato katsu with curry sauce and cucumber furikake slaw. Cauliflower tacos and a range of salads have also been added to the roster. thenighthawk.com.au 6 | Hospitality

NEWS // Entrée

Angus & Bon do breakfast Melbourne restaurant Angus & Bon are now serving breakfast, with the menu inspired by their chefs. Dishes include a bacon sandwich with HP sauce, miso mackerel with radicchio, apple and yuzu and maple banana bread with mascarpone and walnuts.

There’s also a full Angus & Bon breakfast on offer with pork sausage, smoked bacon, black pudding, ham hock beans, poached eggs, duck fat potato hash brown, tomato, wild mushrooms and Q le Baker country loaf — but there’s a smaller version available for those with a smaller appetite. angusandbon.com.au

StrangeLove launch low-cal sodas StrangeLove has released a range of low-calorie sodas made with premium ingredients and minimal sugar. There are seven flavours in the collection including double ginger, yuzu, lemon squash and smoked cola. “Flavour comes first for us, so it’s not a health drink that tastes good, but a delicious drink that happens to be better for you,” says co-founder James Bruce. Available through distributors and select retailers. strangelove.com.au

Cointreau x Design Laboratory Cointreau has collaborated with Design Laboratory in London to release a limited edition bottle. The design has been influenced by orange groves and features etched oranges, ribbed leaves and coiled roots across the bottle. The cap has also been reimagined, with orange replacing copper. The bottles are available for $50 at BWS and independent retailers.

Autumn at Supernormal Andrew McConnell’s Supernormal has unveiled a raft of dishes to usher in the cooler weather. Salmon roe with uni and seasoned koshihikari rice joins off-menu ramen with prawn and chicken dumplings, which is limited to 20 serves per day Monday to Friday. Steamed flathead with Shanghainese wine and dill and fig leaf panna cotta with blackberry and fig syrup round out the new additions. supernormal.net.au

May 2019 | 7

PRODUCE // Shiso

Flower heads can be mixed with soy sauce to make a condiment

Flavour is described as a combination of basil, mint and fennel Purple shiso has a slightly wrinkled appearance

Shiso The serrated leaf is a popular herb used across a range of Asian cuisines.

WORDS Annabelle Cloros ILLUSTRATIONS Elena Fombertaux

Origins

purple shiso. Shiso plants are self-seeding, so

germinated sprouts (mejiso) are used as a

Shiso is a variety of the Perilla frutescens that

flower heads should be cut off as they form

garnish and the leaves are combined with

originated in China and India. The herb was

to ensure leaves continue to grow.

vinegar to dye umeboshi (fermented plums)

introduced to Japan around the 7-8th century

red. Green shiso is commonly consumed fresh

and has also become prominent in Korea,

Flavour profile and appearance

in salads, meat and vegetable dishes or with

which has the highest cultivation. Shiso

There are two main varieties of shiso — purple

sashimi. The leaves can be battered to make

was introduced to the western world as an

(akajiso) and green. Purple shiso leaves have

tempura and are commonly added to noodle

ornamental plant, but is considered invasive

serrated edges and are slightly wrinkled.

and tofu dishes to add depth of flavour.

in some parts of the United States.

Purple shiso has a strong, bitter flavour and

At Sokyo in Sydney, the restaurant has an

is not palatable raw, but can be pickled,

umeboshi cucumber shiso roll on the menu

Growing conditions and harvest

cooked, used as a garnish or brewed as

along with a dish showcasing scallop, pickled

Shiso seeds should be kept at room

a tea. Green shiso leaves have serrated

pumpkin, aonori and bacon crumb and white

temperature and soaked before planting.

edges and grow between 4-12cm long and

sesame shiso dressing.

Although shiso are fast-growing plants, they

2.5-10cm wide. The flavour profile can be

can be difficult to germinate. Seeds require

described as a combination of mint, fennel

Storage

six to eight hours of natural light a day,

and basil, with fresh leaves used in a range

Shiso seeds have a short shelf life and last

sufficient moisture and cool temperatures,

of culinary applications.

for less than one year when kept at room

which help germination occur within a few

temperature, but refrigeration can improve

weeks. Harvest differs according to location

Culinary uses

longevity. Once the leaves have been

and the part of the plant being harvested

Purple and green shiso is prominent across

harvested, they should be stored in a sealed

(sprouts, seeds, leaves), but can begin once

Japanese cuisine and mainly used for

container between 1-7 degrees Celsius.

the first true leaf has grown for green shiso

savoury applications. Purple shiso seed

Leaves should be consumed within 10 days as

and after two true leaves have grown for

pods are preserved in salt to create a spice,

they dry out quickly and lose flavour. â–

8 | Hospitality

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“A fabulous forum for people in the industry” – Trudi Yip, Numeric Eight HOSTED BY

INTERESTED IN SPONSORING THE SUMMIT? Contact Vince Lam: 02 8586 6163 E: vlam@intermedia.com.au

COLUMN // Saskia Beer

Fowl play Whether it’s a case of mistaken identity or a ploy to boost profits, misusing premium brand names is rife in the industry.

WORDS Saskia Beer I WOULD LIKE to talk about a

fairness, sometimes the chef is

but a simple phone call often

and received no response. I

problem that affects so many

not aware they are misleading

clears these matters up. Most

contacted both the chef and

food producers and food

the public. A few years ago, a

times, the businesses are very

management. No response.

brands in Australia — people

company in New South Wales was

apologetic about the situation.

appropriating your name on their

selling 700 buffet frames a week

There are a lot more cases

menus when they are not buying

(off 1.3kg birds) labelled as Saskia

where companies or chefs have

on social media. I had done my

the product.

Beer to an unknowing business

intentionally misappropriated

due diligence and checked with

My business produces free-

The outcome of this tale is that we decided to out the issue

for years. Once the business

my brand and have not desisted

any potential distributors or

range chooks, pheasants,

was made aware, the reaction

after repeated contact. The cost

retailers that could possibly be

turkeys, geese, guineafowl and

was swift and we supplied them

of legal action is prohibitive, and

supplying this outlet. I contacted

Berkshire pork under the Saskia

directly for the remaining 10

so the problem continues.

the restaurant several more

Beer brand and The Black Pig

weeks of the menu rotation.

brand. Over the years, I have

In this case, the meat

In another instance, a

times to give them the chance to

restaurant listed Saskia Beer

explain. The day after our social

seen my name on more menus

wholesaler was fraudulently

spatchcock on their menu — I

media post, I received a letter

than I care to count. If I had

putting labels on the product

don’t grow spatchcock! I rang

of apology saying there had not

sold as many chickens as those

and selling it to the catering

the restaurant, giving them

been time to check the press

restaurants could have taken, I

company commissioned by the

the benefit of the doubt, but a

release in the lead up to the

would be a very happy woman.

business under false pretence

disinterested manager informed

restaurant opening.

But in some cases, I would be

and with intent to make money

me they never had Saskia Beer

unhappy, as the restaurants

through deception.

spatchcock on the menu. Of

hospitality, I know from personal

course I felt compelled to assure

experience how important it

changing jobs and new chefs not

him I was well aware of that! He

is to check everything. It is not

bothering to change the menu.

requested a copy of their own

just my name on the line — it is

We accept it is usually a mistake,

PR article to which I obliged

yours, too. ■

using my name are not ones I want my brand associated with.

Brand appropriation happens in a number of ways, and in 10 | Hospitality

There are often cases of chefs

To everyone on all sides of

BEST PRACTICE // Brand identity

How to build a brand identity Commune Group co-founder Simon Blacher’s advice on how to develop a cohesive, yet flexible brand.

WORDS Simon Blacher BUILDING A BRAND is about providing a unique and memorable

Audience identification

experience from the food, drinks, service, lighting and music

You can’t please everyone. Identify your target market and build your brand

to the paper selected for the menus and the language used to

with them in mind. When you try to please everyone, your product and

describe a venue. Every element needs to be carefully considered

experience will become vanilla.

when thinking about how it will tell your overall brand story.

At Commune Group, we maintain a strong identifiable brand

Our brand has gone through an interesting time in hospitality and more specifically hospitality marketing. We first started Hanoi Hannah eight years

by consistently working and focusing on the overall customer

ago when online publications had only just started gaining momentum. These

experience. Providing a great experience builds brand loyalty,

days, the proliferation of the digital space and social media can definitely aid in

and through brand loyalty comes the ability to grow and diversify.

building a strong brand identity. But it can be a slippery slope if you dive too far into the social media bubble — it can skew your perspective and can force you

PR and social media

to deviate from your core brand values. It’s important to remember the reason

You can’t hide behind PR and Instagrammable neon signs for

why you started and that should always be your motivator and driving force. ■

too long — the consumer will always seek out a good product and that’s what they’ll remember. Hard work will put you in a good place where customers trust your product, which gives you the freedom to move between cuisines and unique offerings.

Group identity Introducing the umbrella brand Commune helped define our culture. It’s young, dynamic and inclusive. Our approach will always be about ‘having a crack’. The group’s identity is bound in this philosophy rather than a set of rules, and that’s how we continue to back ourselves with different concepts across hospitality.

Over the years, we have also used alliterative names to align with our branding from Tokyo Tina and Hanoi Hannah to our Australian Open pop-up restaurant Beijing Betty and the nowclosed Saigon Sally. We felt this was a great way for the public to identify with our brand across multiple cuisines, while staying true to our dynamic and playful persona.

Having a trusted brand can also help you move in a new direction. While we were known for high-volume, turntables, Asian-disco dining, we were able to build a completely different space and experience by opening Neptune wine bar.

Conceptualisation While nailing branding in hospitality is important, there is a danger of overthinking and over-conceptualising your brand.

Defining who you are too early can become problematic and act as a roadblock when you decide to take things in a new direction. My best piece of advice is to be malleable, to bend but not break and to work in a way that lets your branding evolve with demand and move with the times. There’s a difference between changing who you are and adapting.

May 2019 | 11

BUSINESS PROFILE // Arthur TRISTAN ROSIER QUIETLY opened

Arthur in October 2018, and news has

quickly spread of the 35-seat restaurant

that only serves a set menu. After 15 years

cooking at restaurants including Biota, est., Farmhouse Kings Cross and Dead Ringer,

Rosier was ready to leave the security of a head chef role and go it alone.

However, Rosier is doing things

differently — not just by forgoing a la

carte — but breaking down the barriers between front and back of house,

championing Australian produce and

beverages and making a conscious effort

to foster creativity in the kitchen. In other words, Rosier is part of a new generation of business owners who are just as

interested in their staff as they are about the food on a plate.

It took two years before Rosier and his

partner Rebecca Fanning locked in a site for Arthur. The pair were one day away

from signing a lease on a site in Enmore, but had to pull the pin after the landlord failed to divulge crucial information.

“There was some construction going

on upstairs that would have delayed us getting approval to trade for about six

Arthur

Tristan Rosier

months,” says Rosier. “We needed to take legal action against the landlord to get our deposit back.” Rosier and Fanning

persevered and eventually found a venue in a heritage-listed building on Bourke Street, Surry Hills.

Leaving the safety net of being

someone’s employee to open a business is

Modern Australian and open kitchen are terms thrown around loosely in the industry, but Tristan Rosier is putting his money where his mouth is.

a huge leap, no matter what industry you

WORDS Annabelle Cloros PHOTOGRAPHY LYHT — Damian Flanagan

lot on the job — like how to cook — the

12 | Hospitality

work in. Rosier spent years cooking dishes for other people, and while he learned a

lessons on what not to do stuck. “During the latter part of my career, I was in

control of knowing how to cook but I was

observing the mistakes chefs and business owners made and thinking about how to

do things better,” he says. “Working in fine dining, you learn attention to detail and

how to push yourself beyond your limits,

but you’re also learning what not to do in

terms of how to talk to people and handle complaints and how you treat your staff

Most restaurants offer an a la carte

and suppliers.”

menu alongside a banquet or tasting

of Arthur were two-fold: creative and

different, despite the naysayers. “There

The core motivators for the launch

financial. On the creative front, there are strict budgets and dealing with

management, who have the final say on what makes the menu. “I was a head

chef in a few restaurants, and no matter how much freedom they think they can

menu, but Rosier wanted to do something were a lot of people asking why we

were doing a set menu, but working at

Farmhouse for five years, I saw how well a

set menu restaurant can run and function,” says Rosier.

The chef is quick to point out

relinquish or how much they say they want

his 10-course set menu is far from

it’s their vision,” says Rosier. “After a while

a communal dining experience. “A

you to develop a menu for their restaurant, it becomes frustrating, and as a chef, in

some scenarios you know better.” A similar

notion applies to financial decisions. Rosier doesn’t have to worry about making a

case to management to buy a new piece

of equipment or spending extra dosh on ingredients. “I set my own targets,” he

says. “If I want a piece of equipment, I go and buy it. But it’s more about creating a product I’m happy with.”

After working in small and

large businesses for 15 years, it’s

understandable to want a piece of the

pie at some point. Rosier wanted to keep Arthur small so he could take a fair cut.

“If I’m going to put in the hard work, I

want the benefit,” he says. “I think small restaurants should have one or two

owners. When you have multiple owners and have to employ chefs and managers, there’s not enough money to go around.

Financially, it was a good decision.”

a degustation and instead mimics

degustation is usually highly priced, smaller portions, heaps of courses and you’re there for three to four hours,” says Rosier. “Our set menu has roughly 10 dishes, but we

serve them two at a time. It’s like going to a restaurant with a couple of friends and ordering a few different dishes.”

While many venues claim to be modern

Australian restaurants, the term is

embedded in Arthur’s fabric. Rosier isn’t just chucking in a few native ingredients here

and there, the ingredients are all Australian and the notion extends beyond food to

the beverage list and the way Rosier runs

Arthur’s

Rosier adds

set menu is

new dishes

priced at $70

every two

for 10 courses

weeks

You can

The restaurant

buy Arthur’s

runs their own

sourdough

social media

for $10 a loaf

accounts

the restaurant. “We are endeavouring on an Australian cuisine and it means a lot

of things,” says the chef. “The ingredients

are all Australian, our wine list, spirits and soft drinks are Australian and we have an Australian culture [in the workplace]. We

never yell, we never bollock anyone and we have a good work–life balance.”

May 2019 | 13

BUSINESS PROFILE // Arthur

House-made sourdough with cultured butter

BUSINESS PROFILE // Arthur

“For many years, I was cooking for a piece of paper on a docket rail. That’s not why you should be cooking — you should be cooking for the customer.” – Tristan Rosier There are a number of benefits that come

dishes to diners when he conceptualised

you’re passionate about making every one

chef creativity and maximum productivity

between chef and diner has been lost in

lose traction. I’m vigilant of watching the

with offering a set menu: minimal waste, are a few motivators that spring to mind.

“Dead Ringer was such a fluid business and

I used to get frustrated because you’d spend most of your day preparing food that might not be ordered and it’s soul destroying; it’s hard to put love into food that might not

be ordered,” he says. “I wanted everything

Arthur, and says face-to-face interaction many establishments. “For many years, I was cooking for a piece of paper on a

docket rail,” he says. “That’s not why you

should be cooking — you should be cooking for the customer. When you interact with

them, you see their eyes light up and they

perfect but then a few weeks later, you

quality of the produce coming out and the dish comes off once the passion dies off.

“If I change two dishes tomorrow, my chefs

will be here an hour earlier because they’re excited to make it perfect.”

ask questions; it’s a different currency.”

Rosier has food and service down-pat, but

ordering, you don’t waste anything and we

Rosier takes his role as a business owner

took some getting used to. Throw in the

such as fish carcasses which we age and

in developing the team around him and

I prepared that day to be sold. It’s easier for can save certain ingredients for other dishes make stock from.”

The format has not only changed the way

chefs prep food, but the method of service.

There’s no docket printer in the kitchen and the design of the restaurant is completely

open, removing the barriers between chefs and front of house. “We only have 10–11

staff members including me and we wanted

seriously. The chef has a vested interest creating an environment that fosters

creativity. “I want to be a mentor, teach

people, get them excited about food and

make them think on their own,” says Rosier.

“The next generation will be better than

mine because they had people like me who

trained them to think openly and creatively.”

Arthur changes up the menu according

the business side of opening a restaurant fatigue of working seven days a week

and pressure to launch a venue in Sydney and you’ve got yourself a hefty challenge.

But the chef looks at his first six months in business as a learning curve. “I spent 15 years learning how to cook, clean a

kitchen and write a menu, but it’s patchy in the beginning when you’re trying to

be creative and doing all the accounting

stuff and making sure you have the right

it to be fluid where everyone helps,” says

to seasonality and appeasing regular

with food prep and chefs will do wine

the dining public. “Chefs get bored of

but Rosier and his team are running a

the quality slips a little bit,” says Rosier.

Sustainable? Yes. Collaborative? Yes.

Rosier. “Sometimes the floor staff will help training. There’s a lot of cross-pollination

and it allows staff to appreciate every job has less-desirable parts.”

Rosier was adamant chefs would run

14 | Hospitality

customers, which benefits chefs and

cooking the same dishes and after a while “There’s the development stage where

you create it and put it on the menu and

insurance. I wouldn’t change it, though.”

Arthur is still in the embryonic stages,

venue that’s backing up their claims.

Changing the definition of modern Australian? Bloody oath. ■

Get more For the latest hospitality news, get our free e-newsletter at: hospitalitymagazine.com.au

OPENINGS • TRENDS • TECH • LEGISLATION • JOBS

DRINKS // Milk

Market Lane Photography by Amelia Habib

Got milk?

When push comes to shove, what separates one milk from the other?

WORDS Madeline Woolway

WANDERING DOWN THE milk aisle in

have more dry matter in their diet,

Sungold [milk], a fantastic product that

plethora of options. A memorable ad once

have a lot of green grass, the butter is

recipes. Bigger producers have access to

a grocery store, it’s easy to see there’s a asked, ‘low fat, no fat, full cream, high calcium, high protein, soy, light, skim,

the butter is usually paler. When they more yellow.”

The fat and protein content can also

omega 3, high calcium with vitamin D

fluctuate, with processing playing an

out, there’s much more to it than that —

homogenised product, you expect it to be the

and folate, or extra dollop?’ As it turns

especially when it comes to choosing the best option for foodservice.

“For milk to be called milk, you need to

have a minimum of 3.5 per cent fat, but you can put permeates, powders or add

has seasonal changes, you change your

more farms and they can do the work on their end.”

important role. “If you’re buying a super

There’s no wrong or right, just preference,

same all year round,” says Issa. “If you buy

The two key things to consider are fat and

unhomogenised milk, sometimes you have

a higher or lower fat content; it depends on how much dry matter the cows eat.”

at least when it comes to making coffee.

protein content. “The fat in milk tends to make the coffee taste a bit weaker,” says Scheltus. “If you have skim milk or low-

fat milk, they’re a bit more watery so the

things to it,” says Pierre Issa, owner of

Coffee roasters Market Lane source their

there has to be a minimum fat content of

Dairy, which is located three hours by

texturing milk through steaming. “The

Simon Schulz does, like pasteurising

Crowl. “That’s why Sungold and Country

Pepe Saya. “For cream to be called cream, 35 per cent, and they can load the rest up with permeates, powders, thickeners or whatever they want.”

Then there are the variations in cattle

breed and feed, as well as processing methods such as pasteurisation and

homogenisation to consider. Changes to any or all of these things will result in a

different end product, and not just when

it comes to the milk itself. Expectedly, the attributes of milk will affect derivatives

including cream, butter, buttermilk and crème frâiche to name a few.

“With natural cream, the colour of the

butter will change according to what the cows are eating,” says Issa. “When they 16 | Hospitality

milk from local producer Schulz Organic car from Melbourne. “Some of the things at very low temperatures and not

homogenising the milk, really contribute to

coffee tends to cut through and stand out.”

Protein is important when it comes to

higher the protein, the silkier the froth,” says Valley make fantastic steamed milk.”

High fat and protein content may be a

the taste,” says co-founder Jason Scheltus.

plus for mouthfeel, but achieving the right

in his herd, whereas commercial dairies

an acidic coffee [high fat and protein], it

“He also has a generous mix of Jersey cows will have more Holstein Friesian. Jersey

cows tend to have more fat and sweetness in the milk, so it has a richer taste.”

Just as homogenisation can iron out

flavour is a balancing act. “If you have

probably won’t work,” says Crowl. “You

could get sour flavours coming through.”

So, what’s a barista to do? “When we

variations, so too can the size of the

first tested, we had eight different milks

the greater the fluctuations,” says Sam

expensive milks, less expensive, bigger

producer. “The smaller the producer,

Crowl of Sydney-based gelateria and

café Cow and the Moon. “If you’re using

on the table: high protein, high fat, really companies,” says Crowl. “We ended up

falling in the middle because it matched

DRINKS // Milk

Gelato from Cow and the Moon

the coffee we were using and how we like the flavour profiles.”

For the Market Lane team, the

process was reversed, choosing their

don’t want anything too overpowering on the dairy front, we just want the flavours to shine through.”

When it comes to texture, Crowl

beans and ratios to suit the milk. “We

says fattier milks might create a great

Scheltus. “We did taste other milks, but

comes with a higher fat content is hard

started by approaching Simon,” says we preferred Schulz.”

When it comes to choosing milk, the

mouthfeel but the stronger flavour that to work with when making subtle gelato flavours such as panna cotta or vanilla.

practice of comparing multiple options

For Pepe Saya’s catalogue of products,

coffee cupping.

limitation on who he’ll source from, as

against others should be as common as “I think a lot of people don’t take it

seriously enough,” says Crowl. “If you

have a 220ml [coffee] beverage, 200ml is milk — that’s a big percentage.”

Considering milk coffees still make

up the majority of orders — Scheltus

estimates it to be around the 80 per cent mark — it’s well worth the effort. “We

sell a lot of milk coffee, so it’s important

to make sure it’s right for the customer,” he says. Ultimately, after sourcing the

right beans and getting the water quality right, milk should be the priority.

While milk and cream are major

components of gelato, dairy flavours should not dominate. “With gelato,

we’re after a neutral taste and we adjust our recipes around it,” says Crowl. “We

milk is everything. Issa says there’s no long as it’s Australian milk that hasn’t

been altered. That means no supermarket creams loaded up with permeates,

powders and thickeners. “We’re looking

for the good stuff: minimum fat content

of 42 per cent with nothing else added,” he says. The higher fat content means a better yield, while milk solids in

powdered form and other additives will show up in the end product.

Rather than shy away from the

variations present in dairy from small

producers, Issa welcomes them. “As an

artisan butter-maker, the imperfections

are the perfections,” he says. “The colour of our butter changes and we get phone calls when the seasons change, but we

can explain why. They’re things we need to celebrate.” ■

May 2019 | 17

Charcoal Lane head chef Greg Hampton with students

FEATURE // Social enterprise

Social surplus Despite operating in an industry with notoriously tight margins, some hospitality businesses have decided to give back to communities by building purpose into their objective.

WORDS Madeline Woolway HOSPITALITY AND SOCIAL enterprise

the business simultaneously empowers

enterprise],” he says. “It entitles you to

cliché as it might be, food has a habit of

tackling an industry-wide skills shortage.

government and other industries as well.”

could be a match made in heaven. As

bringing people together. Melbourne’s

refugees with employment pathways while

a range of subsidies and grants from the

Charcoal Lane and Sydney’s The Bread

Commercial strategies are implemented

While The Bread & Butter Project officially

of successful social enterprise models

and social impact. Unlike a charity, a

took two years to develop. Allam, his wife

& Butter Project are just two examples in action.

Founded in 2009, Charcoal Lane

operates under the umbrella of Mission Australia, a Christian charity. The onehatted restaurant’s raison d’etre is to

reduce labour force exclusion among

young Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people while providing a platform to share their culture through food.

The Bread & Butter Project was set up

by Bourke Street Bakery co-founders Paul

Allam and David McGuinness in 2013, and 18 | Hospitality

with a dual goal: maximising surplus social enterprise aims to cover most of its costs by generating a surplus

through commerce. And unlike a typical

corporation, 100 per cent of the surplus is reinvested into the business’ pursuit of its social goals.

According to The Bread & Butter Project

general manager Philip Hoban, launching a social enterprise is similar to opening a normal business. “The only difference is

you need to go through an approval process with the government [to register as a social

launched in 2013, the business model

Jessica Grynberg and McGuinness drew on their network of contacts to form a board, which provides direction and advice.

Hiring the right mix of commercially and socially oriented people is crucial, says Hoban. “You really need to be set up

properly. The biggest risk the business has taken is bringing me in because I

have no social background. But I’m here

to manage costs.” In his first five months as GM, Hoban has attended conferences

for ‘changemakers’ and has recognised an

great ideas but they don’t realise how important the commercial side is.”

the cost of putting one refugee through the program to about $50,000 per annum.

Charcoal Lane’s training program is just

A period of consulting with other

organisations was crucial when developing Charcoal Lane. “It was really developed

by the Victorian Aboriginal Health Service and Mission Australia,” says Troy Crellin, program manager social enterprise at

Mission Australia. “From a health services point of view, work plays a big role in

terms of our wellbeing and health. We

have a student board that advises us on

our programs and what we run and how we run them.”

Surplus isn’t a given, even when operating within a tight business plan. “Because

as rigorous. Feedback from students has

emphasised the importance of connecting young people with culture, so Mission

Australia’s program has been designed to

encompass more than technical hospitality

skills. “We do a four-week pre-employment program for anyone from the age of 16 to upwards of 30 years of age,” says Crellin.

Trainees are encouraged to develop pride

in culture and a sense of self. “There’s pride in our food, what we do and how we act

in the workplace,” says Crellin. “It’s about

months, it’s time to go into mainstream

like a lot, but we sell around $5.4 million worth of bread per annum, so, it’s only

the commercial side is.”

– Philip Hoban

Charcoal Lane. “At the end of that six

employment,” says Crellin. “We’re probably the only employer that gets rid of our skilled staff.”

There are three intakes a year with

about six to seven per cent.”

around 30 students graduating. While the

business’ costs are taken into account.

trainers on-site, working alongside chefs

The gap is unsurprising when the

don’t realise how important

After the four-week stint, trainees

cash flow in our end of year results,” says of about $365,000 per annum. It sounds

these great ideas but they

to expect — it’s not like high school.”

undertake a six-month traineeship with

Hoban. “We have a gap at the moment

properly … People have all

unpacking what training is about and what

we fund so much of the trainee wages

ourselves, we tend to have a gap in our

“You really need to be set up

students move on, there are permanent

Trainees are paid slightly above the award rate while receiving training that covers the technical and theoretical aspects of

baking as well English language classes.

All up, Hoban says the business equates

and front of house staff. “The role of the

trainers is to inform staff where the skills

of that young person are at,” says Crellin.

“If we didn’t do that, people would just be washing dishes and polishing glassware.

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May 2019 | 19

FEATURE // Social enterprise

important trend. “People have all these

FEATURE // Social enterprise We don’t want that. We want to provide a pathway to employment.”

Mission Australia is a charitable

organisation, and while the restaurant sustains itself, the organisation seeks

financial support through charitable means to cover other costs. “Training young

people is a cost to Mission Australia,” says Crellin. “It’s something we have to raise capital for, but we’re on a pathway to

answers,” says Crellin. “Internally, we have a process we call impact measurement

that helps us meet our goals. We evaluate

young people when they enter the program

and then at two, four and six months so we

It costs $50,000

30 trainees

We need a third party to extrapolate the

per annum to

graduate

train one refugee

from

at The Bread &

Charcoal Lane

Butter Project

each year

26 graduates

Over 250 young

can record the impact on the individual.

data to show what we’re doing financially for the state and the community.”

becoming self-sustaining.”

Obtaining substantive quantitative data

Individual stories will pull at heart strings,

terms of our sales,” says Hoban. “We have

but data trumps anecdote when it comes to obtaining funding. Charcoal Lane and

The Bread & Butter Project are currently in the process of completing their first social return on investment (SROI), working

with third parties that specialise in impact measurement to develop a framework.

So far, The Bread & Butter Project has had two studies on its outcomes conducted, with almost all 26 graduate trainees

has a number of benefits. “The first is in

some phenomenal customers who are with us because of our story.” The story is what gives The Bread & Butter Project an edge

when competing in Sydney’s artisan bread market. “Then, there are the corporations who have their own corporate social

with auditors to develop measures for the

SROI so substantive and quantitative data can be attached to it.

Charcoal Lane has also commenced the

process of conducting an SROI. “We’ve got enough data from 10 years to get strong 20 | Hospitality

Charcoal Lane’s

employment

program

The same goes for government. While

through subsidies, grants and tax breaks,

require The Bread & Butter Project to work

now in full-time

to stay in partnership with us.”

of their children are in full-time education government subsidies.” The next stage will

been through

them this information, it encourages them

being registered as a social enterprise

and their families are completely off

people have

Butter Project are

responsibility,” says Hoban. “When we give

interviewed. “[The auditors] confirmed all 26 are in employment,” says Hoban. “All

from The Bread &

entitles a business to government funding none of these windfalls are guaranteed.

“There are grants, but there isn’t an endless pot,” says Hoban.

Maintaining a profitable business in the

current climate is no mean feat, but The

Bread & Butter Project and Charcoal Lane are well on their way to becoming self-sustaining while achieving their social goals. ■

WATCH NOW

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FEATURE // Warewashers

Wash away your

troubles Are warewashers the unsung heroes of kitchen equipment?

IT’S NOT UNCOMMON to hear chefs

heat and water pressure. The steamers

gadgets. But what about the equipment

ensuring sterilisation.”

waxing lyrical about the latest and greatest that takes care of the dirty work? The right warewasher can increase productivity and boost efficiency across a business.

The Canterbury League Club in Sydney

recently underwent a $106 million

redevelopment. The venue now has a total of six Hobart washers including conveyer, conventional, pot and glass washers. “We

chose Hobart washers because they have a washer that suits each one of our kitchens and outlets and the machines are capable of performing in different areas,” says

general manager Greg Bygraves. “They all perform a different task with the highest

output and are incredibly reliable with the

are cleaned quickly at a high temperature,

Both New Shanghai and the Canterbury League Club considered a number

kitchen space, equipment, cutlery, table

• Pick the correct washing liquid for

warewashers including venue capacity,

and glassware. But Bygraves says pot and

conveyor washers deserve more attention.

The flexible design of conveyor washers

makes them ideal for heavy-usage venues such as hotels, restaurants and large

canteens, while pot washers are perfect

for tackling cooking equipment of various sizes and shapes.

outlet in Sydney in 2009. The company

strategies. Chen says it’s important to

across Queensland, New South Wales and Victoria, and even has stores in Shanghai and Dubai. Unsurprisingly, the business

has a considerable turnaround of bamboo steamers, which require regular cleaning.

“At home, steamers are usually washed by

hand, but they are washed in dishwashers

alongside regular items at New Shanghai,”

most out of it comes down to a few key “use suitable commercial-grade washing

detergent; pick the correct washing liquid for glassware for a better result; schedule

maintenance to check the equipment, parts and all the connections and train staff on how to handle the equipment.” Bygraves agrees, and says scheduling regular

services and cleaning them daily is a must.

Ultimately, there’s a plethora of options

says Chen. “Commercial dishwashers

available, so don’t forget to spend as much

damage the steamers by exerting too much

other pieces of equipment. ■

perform quicker and therefore do not

22 | Hospitality

Shanghai owner John Chen • Use suitable commercial-grade

No matter the warewasher, getting the

pumps out dumplings at eight venues

Here are some quick tips from New

of elements before choosing their

volume we put them through.”

John Chen opened the first New Shanghai

Get the most out of your warewasher

time researching warewashers as you do

washing detergent.

glassware to ensure better results.

• Schedule maintenance to check the equipment, parts and all the connections.

• Train staff on how to use the equipment.

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BEHIND THE SCENES // Fish and chips

Ol’ School’s

fish and chips An in-depth look at Hospitality’s video masterclass series.

NO DETAIL HAS been overlooked in the preparation

1

2

3

4

5

6

of Ol’ School’s fish and chips. Head chef and coowner of the Brisbane venue Jesse Stevens sources barramundi from a number of suppliers, but uses Cone Bay in the below recipe. Farmed in the sea, Cone Bay has a saltier flavour than pond-farmed barramundi.

Stevens says tartare is a classic sauce that goes well with any fish, but the Ol’ School iteration uses yoghurt in place of mayonnaise, resulting in a tart, fresh sauce.

Lemon zest provides maximum flavour without watering down the tartare. Last but not least, hand-cut potato chips are thrice-cooked. The chips are blanched in a vinegar and water brine before they are fried twice, creating chips that are crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside.

Ingredients Fish Barramundi fillet

Chips Potatoes, cut by hand Vinegar Water

Tartare sauce Yoghurt Lemon zest Baby capers Finely diced cornichons Finely diced red onion Mustard Herbs, such as dill, parsley and tarragon

Method Pan fry barramundi skin-side down, ensuring the fish is kept flat on the grill. Once skin is crisp, move to the oven to finish cooking.

While the fish is in the oven, mix all the tartare ingredients together well in a bowl.

Cut the potatoes into chips, leaving the skins on.

Blanch in a brine of vinegar and water before deepfrying at a high temperature, blistering the outer layer. Deep fry again before serving.

Watch the full video at hospitalitymagazine.com.au

24 | Hospitality

The right paddle grater can make quick work of a range of ingredients from nutmeg and hard cheeses to citrus fruits.

For the best leverage, hold The uniform hole size works well for small quantities of hard to semi-hard ingredients

The larger the

Handheld graters are

the grater at a 30-degree

surface area, the

good for shredding

angle against a benchtop

less effort required

into a receptacle

for grating

Dishwasher-safe Look for a handle

versions are available

with grip to ensure

and make cleaning

safe use

easier

Smaller holes suit products that require Medium-sized holes work

zesting, such as citrus

better for products such as

fruits and spices

hard cheeses and chocolate

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May 2019 | 25

EQUIPMENT // Grater

Grater

5 MINUTES WITH ... // Alejandro Cancino

Alejandro Cancino The awarded chef on veganism, opening a regional kitchen and fighting the industrial food complex.

I BECAME VEGAN when I moved to

event, it would be plant-based. A year or

reality. Not long ago, I had a chat with

restaurant in Tokyo where I met someone

hats three years in a row. I had the awards

want to use canola oil anymore because

Australia. I previously worked in a

who introduced me to veganism. Back

then, I didn’t really understand why people would restrict all this beautiful food you

can have. I thought, ‘I’m a chef, I’ve done

so ago, I decided it was time. We got three and the reputation and it was time to do

what I really wanted, which was to focus

my energy and skills on plant-based dining.

The environment is such a big thing

one of our suppliers and I said, ‘I don’t of what I’ve read about GMO’. He said

it was complete nonsense and explained why. I understand now that in South

Australia, where we get our canola oil,

this all my life, I can’t go vegan’. But the

and the impact of food is huge. Producing

became to ignore. After Tokyo, I went

population; you need grains, water and

because there is pressure to be perfect.

calories, when you could just eat the grain

lifetime of habits overnight. Everyone

more I read and watched, the harder it back to Argentina for a month and did

more research. I found no reason not to go vegan, it made sense in every way.

By the time I arrived in Australia, I was

conflicted. Should I go to a restaurant that serves meat and slowly try to veganise the menu while building a good reputation?

I went to Urbane and every time I did an 26 | Hospitality

meat is not an efficient way to feed a

land. It’s an inefficient way to produce

the animal was fed. It’s the industrial way we produce our food. We opened our

company, Fenn Foods, and venue, Lola’s Pantry, and we’re slowly changing that.

I try more and more to understand the

big picture and educate myself about the

GMO is banned.

Chefs walk away from the movement

You’re not going to change a whole

is on their own journey. Slowly, they’ll

change. When I left Urbane, it was hard for the first few months. Now, I’m glad

I made the move. It’s just the start. The

whole system will change and I’m proud to be a part of that. ■

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