Porschist Magazine 65 - Venetië

Magazine for Porsche enthusiasts • year 17 • quarterly • February/March 2021 • 65

NEW PORSCHE 911 GT3 BOXSTER 25 YEARS ANNIVERSARY PORSCHIST IN VENICE

TRAVEL PORSCHIST

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Venice without tourists : a unique experience.

text: kathleen van bremdt - photos: kathleen van bremdt & sven hoyaux

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raveling in Corona times is a tough exercise. In normal times we let ourselves be guided by criteria such as far away, exotic (in multiple senses), unknown, off the beaten track and so on when choosing a destination. But because of COVID 19, the options are suddenly very limited. Travel is discouraged, the world map has almost uniformly turned red, quarantine obligations are everywhere and few international flights. We therefore look closer to home.

A ONE-TIME OPPORTUNITY

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An ordinary film night provides the solution. We watch The Italian Job again, stretched out on the couch. We've seen the film twice already, but it's fun, a bit of tension, a touch of humour, and it's not exactly a punishment to see Charlize Theron's pretty face on screen. As we see in the first ten minutes of the film how an ingeniously conceived safe robbery succeeds perfectly and a flashy boat race on the canals of Venice follows, we have a lightbulb moment. Venice: the most enchanting city in the world, but the victim of its own beauty and therefore overwhelmed by millions of tourists every year, is once again owned by the Venetians themselves, because here too the tourist influx has stopped abruptly due to the current situation. A peaceful and quiet Venice… we’ll never get such a chance again. A few days later we leave for the Doge’s city. We can already hear you thinking: all well and good, but there are no Porsches driving around in car-free Venice. You are right of course, but there is also a solution for that, as you can read elsewhere in the magazine.

MARIAN While collecting information about Venice on the internet, we come across a blog by Marian Muilerman, a Dutch woman who has lived in Venice for thirteen years and is devoted to the city, heart and soul. Asking costs nothing, so we send her a chat message asking if she would like to be our guide in Venice for a few days. The answer comes immediately: “with pleasure”. Marian works for the Venice Biennale, but because it is cancelled due to Corona and therefore she temporarily has nothing to do, she has focused on guide work. For the first time during all our travels we can go out with a Dutch speaking guide. It couldn't be better.

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BECAUSE THE FIRST IMPRESSION IS ALWAYS IMPORTANT We absolutely want to arrive in Venice by daylight, so that we can fully enjoy the first sight of it. We therefore spend the night in Milan. The next day we only have about 200 km to go. The last part of the trip takes us over the impressive 3.8 km long Ponte della Libertà - the only road connecting the mainland with historic Venice. After the bridge, it turns right to Tronchetto, a gigantic parking garage.

We leave our car there for a week. The luggage goes in a taxi boat - a mahogany Riva of course - and we whiz away.

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CANAL GRANDE : THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BOULEVARD IN THE WORLD We decide to immediately travel down the Canal Grande, Venice's main waterway that winds through the city in an S-shape. As soon as we spot the first buildings, we imagine ourselves in a medieval print that has come to life. Like pencils in an oversized Caran d’Ache box, the most beautiful buildings and palaces are lined up side by side. It is clear that the lagoon city has a rich and successful past. From the 12th to the 18th century, the nobility and wealthy merchants built their houses on the waterfront, the beautiful façades facing the water so that everyone could see how well they were doing. The captain shows us the most iconic buildings: Ca’ d’Oro with its delicate Gothic windows, Ca’ Dario with its crooked columns and striking rosettes, Ca’ Pesaro with impressively decorated arcade arches and the Palazzo Bernardo, whose corner pillars look like entwined rope. A trip along the canal is a journey through the architectural history of Venice. We see a sample of Byzantine, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque styles. Here and there the frescoes have faded, the precious marble has worn off and the foundations are darkly eaten away by the water, but that doesn't matter. Glory and decay form a wonderful symbiosis.

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A trip along the canal is a journey through the rich architectural history of Venice.

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AMAN VENICE : SPENDING THE NIGHT IN A PALACE One of the grand private palaces along the Grand Canal - the Palazzo Papadopoli – has been housing the exclusive luxury hotel Aman Canal Grande Venice since 2013. The Aman group is very selective when it comes to the location of its hotels - only the most beautiful places are eligible - and this time it is no different. The opulent palazzo, built in the 16th century, was long owned by the Greek noble Papadopoulos family. It has been in the hands of the Italian Arrivabene family since the beginning of the last century. The youngest member still lives on the top floor. The rest of the property now belongs to the Aman hotel group.

We arrive along the water via the porta d'acqua (the hotel has a private jetty of course) and step into a gigantic reception room with metre-high walls and authentic frescoes. The general manager, Licinio Garavaglia, receives us warmly. He is one of those men who was born for the hotel trade and exudes a passion that you rarely encounter.

“I prefer to call myself maître de maison”, he says. “A hotel should feel like a real home to those who come to stay and I am more than happy to take care of that.” He leads us down an impressive marble staircase to the piano nobile as it is so beautifully called in Italian. There are two restaurants, a bar and a piano room. The spaces are absolutely stunning with numerous chandeliers, high gold-rimmed mirrors, beautiful authentic murals and large

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balcony doors that allow the sunlight to flood in. The Belgian architect Jean-Michel Gathy - internationally renowned in the hotel world - designed the interior and created a harmonious counterweight to the opulence of the historic decor with contemporary, minimalist design furniture. Spread over the other floors (there are five in total) we find another library, a spa, banqueting rooms and many spacious lounges where you can take a seat at any time of the day.

We don't have to share the hotel with many others as there are only 24 rooms, some with original ceiling paintings by the Venetian painter Tiepolo.

Because the hotel is small-scale and anonymous, the “modest” wealthy of the earth like to stay here. Prices vary between 1000 and 4560 euros for one night. No problem for a movie star like George Clooney who spent his wedding night there in 2014 with the ravishing Amal. The angels on the ceiling saw what happened that night, we can only guess ...

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One of the grand private palaces along the Grand Canal - the Palazzo Papadopoli – has housed the exclusive luxury hotel Aman Canal Grande Venice since 2013.

TRAVEL PORSCHIST SAN POLO, THE HISTORIC CENTRE The Aman hotel is located in San Polo, one of the oldest parts of Venice and also the smallest of the six sestieri or neighbourhoods in which Venice is divided. San Polo has long been the commercial centre of the city where merchants, brokers and bankers did business and is still the beating heart of Venice. The Mercato di Rialto is well attended. Underneath the neo-Gothic arches is the ancient fish market, with an adjacent vegetable market. It is pure entertainment to see how the ordinary Venetians do their daily shopping here.

It is done energetically and with some sense of drama. With a full shopping bag, the market visitors disappear into one of the many side streets on their way to a bàcaro. You will find these typical Venetian bars all over the city and everyone has their favourite address. People are chatting away over a glass of wine or Spritz. Always while standing up, Marian tells us.

The view from the Rialto Bridge over the canal, the palazzi and the many gondolas is unbeatable.

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From the market it is only a few steps to the Rialto bridge. It gracefully spans the Grand Canal and connects the San Polo district with the San Marco district. This beautiful bridge is on the to-see list of all tourists. In their thousands, they squeeze their way over the 316 steps every day, fumbling awkwardly to take that romantic

selfie against the sublime background. We have plenty of space to admire the bridge from top to bottom. It has been there for four hundred years, but thanks to the renovation a few years ago, there is no sign of that. The view from the bridge over the canal, the palazzi and the many gondolas that are moored in dense rows at the Riva del Vin is unsurpassed.

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TRAVEL PORSCHIST HISTORIC PRESERVATION OR UNADULTERATED CAPITALISM? This question can be asked at the Fondaco dei Tedeschi, a former trading depot that now houses a hypermodern department store. The building dates back to the 13th century and has had various guises over the centuries. First it was a trading depot of German merchants, under Napoleon it served as a customs office and from 1880 to 2011 it was the Venice post office. When the Benetton Group bought the building - which was in dire need of refurbishment - in 2009 and expressed its intention to turn it into a luxury shopping centre, many Venetians were extremely sceptical. The Dutch top architect Rem Koolhaas got hold of the project and did what he always does: he did it his way. The exterior has been restored to its full glory, which brought a sigh of relief from the locals. Inside, the bright red escalators are a bit of a shock. They lead to a shopping paradise where only expensive fashion and luxury brands are sold. The individual shops are sleek and ultra-modern, but the colonnades have retained the historic value of the building. There is no accounting for taste, but we think the balance between old architecture and contemporary furnishings is quite successful. What is certainly appreciated by everyone is the spectacular viewing platform on the roof. From there we have a splendid widescreen panorama over the canal, the terracotta-coloured roofs, chimney pots and belfries. It is a clear day and we can even see the snowy peaks of the Dolomites in the distance.

A GLIMPSE INTO HISTORY

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Mighty city-state, most prosperous European maritime republic in the Middle Ages, an urban marvel, a beloved place of sublime art: how did a city built on 118 unsightly swamp islands get this far? The history of Venice is as unique as the city itself. Inhabitants of the mainland took refuge in the muddy islands in the 4th and 5th centuries, hunted by the Huns and the Lombards - peoples we remember from our history lessons as “the barbarians”. The refugees built settlements with houses on stilts and left the water in between free for transport. A real city gradually emerged on the water. The area belonged to the Byzantine Empire and both parties benefit from this. The Venetians, who have meanwhile dominated the Adriatic, defended in time and stood by Byzantine interests, and in return received trade privileges. However, having an emperor far away in Constantinople is not really convenient and so Venice demanded, and received, more of its own right of decision. In 697 the first Doge (Venetian for the Latin dux meaning leader) was appointed. Many consider this the unofficial beginning of the Republic of Venice.

Trade flourished in the following centuries. The Venetians were excellent seafarers and born business people. The export of grain, wine, salt, timber and slaves to Constantinople ensured an ever-growing prosperity in the city. From the other direction, silk and spices reached the lagoon city. As a bridge between west and east, the wealth grew and with it the power of Venice. And that power made them hungry for more. In 1204, Venice took part in the Fourth Crusade, not so much because of the cross, but with the intention of eliminating trade rival Constantinople.

The Crusaders were merciless. They took the city and plundered it completely. Most of the valuables went straight to Venice where they can still be seen today.

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TRAVEL PORSCHIST Venice - which was now completely independent - entered a golden era. The republic was not only lord and master of the entire lagoon, but had also gained new areas, including Crete and Cyprus. From the 13th to the 15th century, Venice was the most powerful and richest city in Europe. Unfortunately, the tide turned when the Turks in turn conquered Constantinople in 1453. Venice lost more and more territory and its monopoly on trade with the East was starting to show cracks. The low point was reached when Napoleon conquered the city in 1797, bringing an end to 1100 years of independence. Later, in 1866, Venice became part of the kingdom of Italy.

SAN MARCO: THE HEART OF VENICE

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St. Mark's Square - named after St. Mark, the patron saint of Venice - is the symbol of the city. We arrive here at the so-called “golden hour” when the sprawling square is bathed in the radiant light of the setting sun. We have already seen countless images of it, but experiencing the square in reality gives us goosebumps. “In Venice, the word piazza is reserved for San Marco, all other squares in the city are called campo,” Marian tells us. St. Mark's Basilica with its voluptuous domes is majestic, a delightful combination of colours and styles. Opposite the basilica rises the free-standing 98-metre-high Campanile. The clock tower is actually only a century old because in 1902 the original tower collapsed. It was promptly recreated exactly - dov'era, come'era (where it was, how it was).

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COFFEE HOUSE WITH TRADITION Back as far as 1720, the famous Caffè Florian opened its doors under the colonnade on the square. It is one of the oldest and most famous cafes in the world. Perhaps even the concept of coffee house as we know it today - a place to chat about the things in life over a drink and a snack – emerged here. In its glorious existence it has been the favourite gathering place for the social and cultural elite. Big names such as Goethe, Wagner, Byron, Proust and Dickens were always at home here. The café has not lost any of its grandeur. One look inside and we immediately imagine ourselves in the 18th century: colourful wall panels, chairs upholstered in velvet, marble tables and gold-framed mirrors. We take a seat at one of the tables on the almost empty terrace. Despite there being only a few listeners, a small group of musicians tries to keep the atmosphere going. The image reminds us of the scene from the movie Titanic, where the salon orchestra bravely continues to play while the ship is already half under water.

While we sip our espresso, the statue of Saint Mark on the roof of the basilica catches the last of the sunlight. Venice's winged golden lion sparkles beneath him.

Back as far as 1720, the famous Caffè Florian opened its doors under the colonnade on St. Mark's Square.

CENTRE OF POWER Another gem in St. Mark's Square is the Palazzo Ducale or Doge's Palace, the former residence of the Doges and seat of power of the republic. For centuries it was the only building in Venice that was allowed to bear the name palazzo.

Other buildings were simply called 'ca', short for casa (house). Between 697 and 1797, a total of 120 Doges ruled the Venetian republic. A Doge was appointed for life.

The office itself changed over the centuries. Initially, the Doge was a Byzantine duke, then an elected head of state and ultimately just a representative figure without power.

The pink marble facade of the Doge's Palace is a textbook example of Gothic architecture. The sophisticated “lace-like” masonry seems to defy all laws of gravity. Just like at the basilica, we can immediately enter, no queue. We end up in beautifully furnished and elaborately decorated rooms. There are meeting rooms, courtrooms, banquet rooms, but also torture rooms and cells. Power always has a dark downside. From the Doge's Palace we walk via the

Bridge of Sighs to the infamous Prigione Nuove. The name of the bridge is poetic, but its origin is not. A convict was usually given the death penalty. The name refers to the inmates’ sigh as they caught the last light of day and a glimpse of the lagoon through the small windows of the bridge.

No one ever escaped from the atrocious prison, except for one man: Casanova.

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TRAVEL PORSCHIST CASANOVA: A MAGNETIC PERSONALITY

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Giacomo Casanova was a man of exceptional talents. He lived more than 250 years ago, but his name still has a special appeal. He owes this to the autobiography he wrote toward the end of his life and which is still read to this day. In his memoirs, he provides an irresistible and honest picture of his life as a committed adventurer. Of course we mainly know Casanova as an incorrigible womaniser, but he was much more than that. It is not only because of his charms that he managed to work his way up into the highest circles. He was intelligent, had a law degree and a wide range of interests as a Freemason. In addition, he was a creditable mathematician, which served him well in his gambling, an occupation to which he was passionately devoted. Although he did not always play the game fairly. He maintained double standards without scruple and considered swindling people more a lesson in life than a sin.

He travelled all over Europe and met everyone who really mattered at the time: Catherine the Great, Pope Clement XIII, Louis XV, Madame De Pompadour, Voltaire, Rousseau, Mozart (for whom he is said to have written the libretto of Don Giovanni), etc. And the women? They fell for him in droves.

He loved many women of all walks of life. Although his love was volatile, the lady he selected could count on plenty of attentions and a generous bed partner. We look up the places that were important in Casanova's life: his birthplace, the Palazzo Malipiero where he lived for several years, the Calle Vallareso where gambling houses were located for centuries, the famous casino Antico Teatro Ridotto and of course Caffè Florian, the only café in Venice where women were also admitted in the 18th century. It is clear to us that Casanova could only have lived in 18th century Venice. A time of intrigue, secret encounters in palazzi, faces hidden behind masks and women with constricted waists and white ankles under ballooning skirts.

MASKED EXTRAVAGANCE The Venetian talent for secrecy can be fully developed during Carnival, this effervescent feast that precedes the austerity of Lent. The tradition of the Venetian Carnival began in the 13th century and reached its peak in the 18th century. After the end of the Venetian republic in 1797, the lavish masquerade partying was over for a while - Napoleon immediately abolished it - but from 1979 the tradition was revived and a new heyday began. Marian herself loves the carnival and shows pictures of herself and some friends in full costume. Because a mask alone is not enough, a historical costume is also necessary.

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The Venetian talent for secrecy can be fully developed during the carnival.

We visit a workshop where masks are still made according to the traditional method. Everything is done by hand: from making the mould in clay, shaping the mask in papier-mâché to painting and decorating. Many masks and the figures they represent are deeply rooted in the history of Venice. Julia - the owner of the studio - is just working on the mask of the Medico della peste, the plague doctor. The long beak is typical of the mask. It was filled with herbs and essential oils to purify the air and stop the stench. Less frightening masks hang on the wall. Refined specimens in many colours, some decorated with feathers. We are looking at it with our surgical mouth masks on. What if we all wore a Venetian mask instead of such an ugly bit of fabric? The street scene would instantly look a lot nicer.

TRAVEL PORSCHIST DORSODURO: STUDENT AREA AND ART QUARTER

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The Ponte dell'Academia is the only wooden bridge over the Grand Canal. In fact it was only a temporary bridge replacing a cast iron one, but the beautiful arch was so loved by the Venetians that the bridge has remained. We end up in the student area. On the Campo Santa Margherita young people sit chatting and joking. There is that wonderful vibe that is so characteristic of the hopeful enthusiasm of the youth. We settle down on the terrace of Caffè Rosso, one of Marian's favourite places, and order a tramezzino, a typical Venetian triangular white sandwich with rich fillings. A young woman with a garland of bay leaves on her head stands in the middle of a circle of peers. She is beaming. “This is typically Venetian,” says Marian.

“You can see from the wreath that the girl has just graduated and she’s celebrating with friends.” We stroll through the many alleys with cosy terraces and restaurants. Close by is the Gallerie dell'Accademia, the beautiful museum with a wealth of famous paintings. For those who love classical art, this is the mecca. Anyone who is a fan of contemporary work can indulge their passion in the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. We are especially fascinated by the Sante Maria della Salute. The Baroque domed church was built to thank Mary for the end of the plague epidemic in 1630. It stands on the exact spot where the canal merges into the sea.

As far as we are concerned, it is the most beautiful church in Venice.

The Venetian pastel light acts like a magnet on an endless procession of painters, writers and poets.

VENICE WITHOUT PRETENSIONS Venice is captivating even when there are no great artworks or famous buildings in the area. Marian takes us on a tour of the subdued areas of Cannaregio and Castello. We often end up in a quiet, sometimes deserted-looking part of the city where boats lie motionless at the quay side and the plaster layer is peeling off the facades. We walk through picturesque alleys that are so narrow that you cannot spread your arms, over bridges where the sky turns a soft pink over the water and past hidden green corners. The less distraction, the more you see. Small things: statues in niches, inscriptions on walls, a coat of arms, a year ... everything has a history. This intimate, dreamy Venice with its quiet canals and unpretentious streets is as captivating as the rest of the city. And time and again we end up in cosy squares. Everywhere in Venice, social life takes place on the campi. This is where the local residents come together. After school, children throw their backpack against the well and start romping around, parents exchange the latest news in an animated way and the elderly keep an eye on everything from a bench. Venetians love aperitifs. In the evening they treat themselves to an ombra (glass of wine) or Spritz, the typical Venetian drink. Some tasty cicchetti (Venetian aperitif snacks) to satisfy the initial hunger are also included. Life as it is in a Venetian square.

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The intimate, dreamy Venice with its quiet canals and unpretentious streets is as captivating as the rest of the city.

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SICK OF BEAUTY

A CITY OF MANY ATMOSPHERES

In a city like Venice where you are surrounded by an abundance of splendour and aesthetics, the many impressions can overwhelm you occasionally. There is even a name for it: Stendhal's Syndrome, sick of beauty. Well, should you end up in hospital in Venice, that beauty will continue to haunt you. The Ospedale Civile, the municipal hospital, is hidden behind the fantastic Renaissance facade of the former Scuola Grande di Marco, once the seat of a religious community. Inside, too, there are beautiful rooms and works of art. In the chapel hangs a Tintoretto and a work

by Veronese. We turn the corner and walk along the quay. Here the yellow ambulance boats moor. All transport in Venice is by water after all.

We are amazed at how often the atmosphere in this city changes. Morning, afternoon or evening makes quite a difference.

The start of the day is promising, the afternoon is sedate and at nightfall, romance dominates with a touch of melancholy. Light is an all-determining factor. The Venetian pastel light acts like a magnet on an endless procession of painters, writers and poets. When the sun is shining brightly, the city is its cheerful self, when the sky is grey it takes on an indeterminate look and when it is foggy the mystique is almost tangible. And then there is the night. In the moonlight, the city exposes its dark soul. The water in the canals, which looks so lovely during the day, is ominously black. The streets are deserted and footsteps sound hollow. Are they moving away? Or are they coming closer? We can just see a man turning the corner, his long cloak fluttering after him. Or is it just our imagination? Venice by night is the Venice of the shadows.

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INVISIBLE RESIDENTS The whole of Venice is a museum and so picturesque that one would almost forget that people actually live behind those many facades. Even in places where we think nobody lives, we see names on the doorbell as we get closer. “The outside sometimes looks dingy and poorly maintained, but the inside is often cosy and nicely decorated,” says Marian. “Venetians generally live on a small scale and are therefore particularly inventive in making optimal use of small spaces.” Because of the many narrow streets and the low incidence of light, the second floor and everything above is the most sought after to still get some natural light in. The ground floor is usually used as a storage place. Although it is best not to keep any valuables there, because at acqua alta they are regularly flooded despite the aluminium partitions placed in front of the doors.

HIGH WATER: 5.5 BILLION IN THE WATER Acqua Alta is a phenomenon that belongs to the life of the Venetians. Just like they all have a pair of Wellington boots.

The images of a flooded St. Mark's square regularly make the news. “The square is the lowest place in Venice,” Marian tells us. “It floods about 150 times a year. We usually know when high water is expected. Then the sirens wail to warn everyone. There is also a special app. Acqua Alta is caused by the Sirocco wind that pushes the waters of the Adriatic into the Venice lagoon. Streets and squares are flooded and the water also rises from the ground, through the paving stones. You literally see the water rising. After the peak, the water drops again as quickly as it came.” Venice has suffered from flooding since time immemorial, but it is getting worse. Sea levels are rising and the city is slowly sinking into the unstable ground.

Currently the city is only one metre above sea level. Is nothing being done about this? “There is now,” says Marian. “We had to wait seventeen years for it, but since July 2020, the MOSE project has finally been completed. MOSE stands for Modulo Sperimentale Elettromeccanico, but of course also refers to Moses who parted the Red Sea. It is a mobile dam that separates the lagoon from the sea. Construction already started in 2003, but was repeatedly halted due to corruption scandals.

The flood defence system proved its usefulness for the first time on 3 October 2020. Despite the storm, St. Mark's Square remained dry. A euphoric moment for the Venetians.” The MOSE system - which has cost no less than 5.5 billion euros will be activated as soon as a water level of 1.30 m or higher is expected. Unfortunately, the construction is already showing wear. The repair will cost another huge amount of money. But for the residents of Venice, what matters most at the moment is that MOSE works.

“Venetians generally live on a small scale and are therefore particularly inventive in making optimal use of small spaces.”

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A LABYRINTH OF BOOKS Although the name might suggest otherwise, not the water, but the books will literally be right up to your lips at Liberia Acqua Alta. Tucked down an alley in the quiet Castello district is Venice's most extraordinary bookshop.

“The shop was started by Luigi, a man who did not want to retire yet and therefore started a business in second-hand books,” Marian explains. “As you can see, the project has gotten pretty out of hand.” And it has! Books are everywhere: stacked in rows against the walls, in metre-high racks, in gondolas, bathtubs and canoes ... you couldn’t make it up. Novels, encyclopaedias, dictionaries, comics, drawings, it is overcrowded. Here and there are dressed mannequins and cats are everywhere. It is actually a kind of curiosity cabinet. You can wander around here for hours. A staircase of books has been made on the courtyard so that you can look over the canal behind it after a few steps. Due to the rain, the paper is completely stuck together. A man has settled into a chair and is immersed in what may have been recently discovered literary treasure.

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TRAVEL PORSCHIST A DEEP BREATH OF ART Venice isn't the only island in the lagoon. Since 1291, the island of Murano has been the centre of the glass blowing industry. In that year, the city council decided that all glassblowers should move to the island. Partly because of the fire hazard, partly to keep the production process secret. The talent of the Venetian glassblowers was unparalleled and the objects made by the masters were known all over the world for their excellent quality. The glass blowers enjoyed many privileges, but were not allowed to leave the island. The secrets of Venetian craftsmanship had to remain on the island at all costs. Anyone who dared to move faced a long prison sentence or even the death penalty. Murano glass reached its peak in the 15th and 16th centuries, but glass is still produced here today. We visit Venier, one of the factories that are still active. “Glass can only be blown by someone who surrenders himself completely to control it”, explains the guide. We see how the craftsmen remove red-hot balls from the ovens, swing them deftly on iron rods and give them a beautiful shape with tongs. In the blink of an eye, one of them has made a rearing horse.

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THE VENETIAN CHARACTER It is always dangerous to describe the character of a people - too often you resort to stereotypes - but we still ask Marian what typifies a Venetian. As a non-Venetian resident among the Venetians, she is best placed to judge them objectively. She thinks for a moment. “A Venetian is straightforward, honest, optimistic and full of life, but not really hospitable or helpful.” We had noticed the latter. Asking a Venetian for directions isn’t worth doing.

You should not expect more than a vague head movement in a certain direction. We do understand it as well. How many times a day are they not accosted by tourists during normal times? We recognise the real Venetian by the deliberate way in which he moves through the streets, with swift gait, looking straight ahead, avoiding every eye contact so as not to be approached.

GETTING LOST WANDERING

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Giving directions to a newcomer is virtually impossible in a city like Venice, where all the streets are crisscrossing one another. The signposts that we see here and there to the major attractions such as San Marco, Rialto or Academia don’t help us either. After the next corner we have already lost our way. “Street names are never actually used”, Marian explains. “When we give directions to each other, we do so on the basis of landmarks: a kiosk, a bar, a shop or something similar.” Being a postman in Venice, that's a challenging job, we think. Fortunately, Marian guides us smoothly from point a to point b. When she's not with us, we let our feelings guide us and wander the streets without a plan. Behind every corner is another enchanting scene. Sometimes the wrong way turns out to be the best way.

A peaceful and quiet Venice… we will never get such a chance again.

Thanks to : Marian Muilerman, our fantastic guide in Venice www.venetiansteps.com Licinio Garavaglia, general manager Aman Hotel Canal Grande Venice Christina Clerici, PR director Brand Luxury Laboratory

A ONCE IN A LIFETIME EXPERIENCE It is a phrase that is often used inappropriately, but in our case it is the best way to describe our Venice trip.

What we have experienced - a Venice stripped of all the hordes of tourists - we will probably never experience again and we have loved every second of it. Venice is once again truly La Serenissima, the most serene city.

Although the current situation is extremely tough for a city that depends on tourism for 90%. The Venetian lion is therefore impatiently waiting for better times. Hopefully they will come soon. Let us hope that they go hand in hand with targeted tourism management and a clear vision of the future, because Venice, more than any other city, needs that. ♦

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INTERVIEW PORSCHIST

The ‘Italian’ Porsche. e leave for Venice without having an appointment with a local Porsche driver. In doing so, we are violating our own rules, because meeting a Porsche owner on location is an absolute requirement for the travel story in Porschist.

However, circumstances make it difficult for us. Initially, the Marketing Manager of Porsche Italy wants to provide us with support, but due to stricter corona restrictions, this plan collapses shortly before our departure. We don't have Plan B yet, but we are firmly convinced that we will find a solution in any case.

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When we walk out of the large Tronchetto car park and wait on the quay for a taxi boat, we approach a random Italian who is chatting with some friends next to us. Does he happen to know someone with a Porsche? “Sure,” the man answers without missing a beat, as if he gets that question every day. “My best friend Alex has just bought a 911.” We hardly dare to believe our ears. Truly the very first man we speak to and we have already struck lucky! Would that friend be willing to participate in a photo shoot and an interview for a magazine about Porsche? “That should not be a problem”, he says. “I'll check and let you know. By the way: I am Mattia Greggio." Could it be true after all that coincidence doesn't exist? The same evening we receive a phone call from Giordana Losi. Giordana turns out to be Mattia's girlfriend and someone who is clearly used to managing things efficiently. (We later hear that she runs an exclusive travel agency.) “Everything' is arranged,” she says. “Shall we meet at Scalo Fluviale, right across from the cruise terminal? That is the place where we can bring the Porsche closest to the centre of Venice. That's what you’d like, isn't it?”

We are able to take pictures with a wonderful Venetian touch, exactly what we had in mind.

Absolutely! The next day we arrive punctually for our appointment. Alex arrives with a beautiful 992. We can't believe our luck. Giordana also turns out to be a beauty; long raven-black hair and with graceful moves. That is two birds with one stone, we immediately think. Giordana is happy to pose in front of the lens. The Riva that brought us to Scalo Fluviale also stays nearby. The whole puzzle fits together perfectly. We are able to take pictures with a wonderful Venetian touch, exactly what we had in mind. After the photo shoot we take time out for a conversation.

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INTERVIEW PORSCHIST

Alex, first of all the question that intrigues us the most: why is it that an Italian drives a German car?

A: Because I have taste. (laughs) It is a misunderstanding that all Italians automatically turn to Italian brands when they are interested in a sports car. Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati are of course well-known names, but as far as I'm concerned no car manufacturer can match Porsche.

What do you think is so special about Porsche?

A: The exclusivity. Everything is just a little bit different at Porsche than at other sports brands. The cars have their own unique look. A Porsche stands for luxury, but is at the same time discreet. In a Porsche you can wear a tailored suit or a sports outfit, it suits every occasion and is always utterly elegant. For me a Porsche is a statement.

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Where does your passion for Porsche come from?

A: I remember like yesterday the day that my father took me to a Porsche showroom as a little boy - I must have been about three years old - and said, “Boy, this is going to be a special day.” And it was.

He bought his first Porsche, a dark purple one. I can still perfectly remember the smell of that car.

From that moment on I knew I would do everything I could to be able to buy a Porsche one day.

When did you buy your Porsche?

A: In 2019.

“It is a misunderstanding that all Italians automatically turn to Italian brands when they are interested in a sports car.”

And why a 911?

A: In my opinion, a 911 is the Porsche par excellence. The lines of the car are sublime and the driving qualities unrivalled. The 992 model is a few centimetres longer and is slightly higher than the standard 911. This makes it visually even more beautiful.

You have chosen a particularly beautiful colour.

A: Yes, Adventuring Green is a new colour and I fell in love with it. The colour also combines fantastic with the black leather interior.

Were you born and raised in Venice?

A: Yes, I live in the centre of Venice.

However, Venice is car-free. Where do you leave your Porsche?

A: I have a permanent place in the Tronchetto car park. That's handy. I mainly use my Porsche on weekends. Then I drive with friends to the Dolomites or Jesolo. Jesolo is a lively seaside town on the north side of the Venice lagoon. A wonderful place to chill.

Thanks for the chat, Alex. ♦

Alex

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INTERVIEW PORSCHIST When Alex has left with a roar from his engine, we talk a bit further with Giordana.

Giordana, tell us what keeps you busy.

G: I have my own travel agency Topvenice, specialising in luxury travel. I make tailor-made trips, completely tailored to the wishes of the customer.

My work domain is slightly broader than just Venice.

Customers can contact me for the entire Veneto region, including the Dolomites.

How many people work in your agency?

G: There are five of us in total. We are a very dynamic team and complement each other perfectly.

What is your agency’s mission?

G: The creation of unforgettable experiences. I focus on a clientele that really wants something exclusive.

What do you think is your agency's greatest asset?

G: Passion, motivation and always going that little bit further than others would.

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“A customer must feel that he has my full attention. That's what I mean by good service.”

Giordana

You managed to arrange everything for today's Porsche shoot in no time. Do you always work so efficiently?

G: Yes, that is how I operate. I make it a point to work and switch very quickly. A customer always receives an answer from me in the shortest possible time. He must feel that he has my full attention. That's what I mean by good service.

On your website we see very special arrangements such as high tea with a countess, a gondola ride with music, champagne and photo shoot, a discovery of Venice through the small canals followed by a traditional Venetian dinner in a typical Venetian house, a gondola rowing course including cicchetti and Spritz tasting, personalised events for companies, etc. All very original.

G: That's exactly what I just meant by creating great experiences. Nothing mainstream for me. I offer a wide range of special activities. I start from the list that I have, but then adjust the activity that the customer chooses completely to his wishes. To give an example: Last

week I organised a birthday party. The dinner took place on the top balcony of the Scala del Bovolo, the famous spiral staircase that is part of the palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. While the guests climbed the stairs, a saxophonist played. The table was lavishly decorated with the birthday person’s favourite flowers. There was a symbolic ceremony where the birthday person became an official resident of Venice. The whole party was captured on photos and film.

How do you get all those things organised?

G: I have a very extensive network of excellent contacts with the very best hotels, restaurants, caterers, transport companies, guides, etc. When I put something together, everything has to be right. Every detail counts, this is the only way to create top experiences.

What nationality are your customers?

G: I am mainly contacted by Americans, Brazilians and people from the Arab Emirates.

What do you think is the best way to explore Venice?

G: Everyone is different, of course, but I prefer to discover Venice slowly, not running too fast from hotspot to hotspot, but paying attention to the wonderful surroundings. You have to experience Venice with your emotions. And of course you have to stay in a top hotel.

What do you think is the best thing about Venice?

G: Venice can be both the greatest and the most terrible city in the world. You just need the right person to open the right doors. (laughs) That is true! Giordana, thank you for the cooperation and good luck with Topvenice. ♦ www.topvenice.com

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