ESTONIA
A Hidden Gem on the Baltic Sea.
Credit: Aivo-Oblikas
Text: Kathleen Van Bremdt - Photos: Sven Hoyaux
In this edition of Porschist, we take you to the surprisingly diverse country of Estonia. Our journey begins in the picturesque capital Tallinn, where we meet a local Porsche owner. From there, we hit the road in a brand-new Porsche Panamera to explore the country. Our route takes us through pristine national parks, the coastal towns of Haapsalu and Pärnu and the idyllic islands of Muhu and Saaremaa. We wrap up the trip in Narva, right on the Russian border. A journey full of contrasts and pure driving pleasure.
A ROAD TRIP IN STYLE
Upon arrival in Estonia, we hop into a taxi and head straight to the Porsche Center in Tallinn. During the planning phase of our trip, we had inquired whether it might be possible to use a Porsche for a photo shoot. The response? “How long are you staying in Estonia? Two weeks? No problem, we’ll arrange a Porsche for your entire trip.” That level of trust is something we’ve rarely encountered. We’re handed the keys to a brand-new Panamera E-HYBRID, finished in stunning oak green with a sophisticated brown leather interior. It’s a real head-turner. And we’re already looking forward to the beautiful drives that lie ahead.
THE BALTIC STATES: A SHARED HISTORY, A UNIQUE IDENTITY
Estonia is often mentioned in the same breath as its neighbors Latvia and Lithuania, and understandably so. The three countries share a complex and intertwined history. For centuries, they stood at the crossroads of powerful empires, including the German, Russian and later Soviet regimes. After World War I, each briefly tasted independence. But in 1940, the Soviets returned, occupying and annexing all three nations. What followed was nearly fifty years of repression: forced collectivization, cultural suppression and mass deportations to Siberia. When it became clear in the mid-1980s that the communist system was beginning to falter, the Baltic states seized their moment. They joined forces in their pursuit of freedom, a spirit beautifully symbolized by the Baltic Way . On August 23, 1989, nearly two million people linked hands to form a peaceful human chain stretching 600 kilometers from Tallinn, through Riga, to Vilnius. The powerful images of this protest spread across the globe. In 1991, all three nations regained
their independence and quickly set course for the West, joining both the European Union and NATO in 2004.
Yet despite being grouped together internationally, Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania each possess a distinctly individual identity with their own languages, cultures, and traditions that are proudly upheld to this day. That’s exactly why it’s worth focusing on just one of the three for a deeper experience. We chose Estonia.
Estonia has a distinct identity with a unique language, culture, and traditions.
ESTONIA IN A NUTSHELL
Of the three Baltic countries, Estonia is the smallest in population. Though with a land area of around 45,000 km², it’s still slightly larger than the Netherlands. It’s also the northernmost of the three. The country borders the Baltic Sea to the west, the Gulf of Finland to the north, Russia to the east and Latvia to the south.
Estonia is known for its abundance of islands - 2,222 in total - which make up around 10% of its territory. Most of these islands are tiny and uninhabited, but two stand out: Saaremaa (2,670 km²) and Hiiumaa (990 km²) are both sizeable and rich in natural and cultural beauty.
While Latvians and Lithuanians speak Baltic languages and can still more or less understand each other, Estonian is as much a mystery to them as it is to us. The Estonian language belongs to the FinnoUgric language family and is only related to Finnish. It’s considered one of the most difficult languages in the world, featuring no fewer than fourteen grammatical cases. Since regaining independence, Estonia has developed at lightning speed. The country has enjoyed strong economic growth and is now one of the frontrunners in Europe. Rising wages and an improving standard of living have given rise to a growing middle class, one that can afford to enjoy the finer things in life. We notice this especially in Tallinn, where a surprising number of Porsches can be seen on the streets. Estonia also boasts a remarkably strong IT sector and is widely regarded as one of the most digitally advanced countries in the world.
Credit: Giulio Gröbert
A CAYMAN WITH ESTONIAN PLATES
Daniel Levin is one of those people truly bitten by the Porsche bug. We meet him in the lobby of our hotel. Without wasting a moment, we head out for a two-hour photoshoot with him and his Cayman. That’s all the time he can spare. His schedule as an anesthesiologist at a private hospital is packed. We arrange to have dinner together the following evening, which leads to a fascinating conversation about medicine, dreams, and passions. (You’ll find the full interview on page 34)
TALLINN: WHERE THE MIDDLE AGES WHISPER BENEATH YOUR FEET
Walking into Tallinn’s Old Town feels like stepping into a living painting. The Estonian capital boasts one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval city centers. The architectural splendor from the era when Hanseatic ships docked in its harbor has been beautifully preserved, keeping centuries of history vividly alive. Massive city walls with watchtowers enclose a labyrinth of narrow streets, alleyways and charming squares. Town Hall Square is the beating heart of the Old Town, a place where, since the 13th century coveted goods from across Europe were traded. Imposing merchant houses, richly decorated façades and hidden courtyards all testify to the wealth and power of the German merchants who once ruled here. The Gothic town hall still towers over the square, standing guard over the city’s layered past.
A short climb takes us to the top of Toompea Hill (also called Cathedral Hill). It’s striking how the atmosphere changes between the Lower and Upper Town, each historically serving different roles. The Lower Town was home to merchants and craftsmen; the Upper Town was the seat of the aristocracy and ruling class. The stately Toompea Castle , once the stronghold of German knights, is now the seat of Estonia’s parliament. Its iconic tower, Pikk Hermann, flies the national flag, a powerful symbol of Estonian independence.
The capital of Estonia boasts one of the best-preserved medieval old towns in Europe.
Credit: Giulio Gröbert - Talinn Old Town
Credit: Kairi Tähe
Directly across from the castle stands the striking Russian Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Cathedral . Its five onion-shaped black domes gleam against the sky. The cathedral’s grand Byzantine style feels almost out of place amidst the city’s predominantly Gothic architecture. It was built in the early 1900s by Tsar Nicholas II and dedicated to Saint Alexander Nevsky, a Russian prince and national hero. Its commanding location opposite the seat of government was no coincidence: it was meant as a clear statement of power.
The
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is an icon of Russian Orthodox architecture.
Alexander Nevski-kathedraal in Tallinn.
From the viewing platform at the Patkuli Staircase, we’re treated to a spectacular view: red rooftops, countless towers and, in the distance, the shimmering waters of the Baltic Sea.
Just two kilometers beyond the Old Town lies the rosy-pink Kadriorg Palace , an extravagant Baroque residence commissioned in the early 18th century by Russian Tsar Peter the Great. Built as a summer retreat for his wife, Catherine I, the palace -named Kadriorg, meaning “Catherine’s Valley” - was designed by an Italian architect who pulled out all the stops: symmetry, large windows, and lavish ornamentation. Today, the palace forms part of the Estonian Art Museum and houses a collection of international artworks. It’s surrounded by a vast, leafy park, loved by both locals and visitors alike, a peaceful haven in the heart of the city.
A CITY IN TRANSITION
Tallinn’s historic core is breathtaking, but don’t let that fool you into thinking it’s stuck in the past. Just steps outside the medieval walls are vibrant, up-and-coming neighborhoods like Telliskivi and Rotermann , where former industrial buildings have been transformed into creative hubs filled with design stores, start-ups and contemporary art galleries. Here, cutting-edge architecture and technology coexist effortlessly with sustainability and urban renewal. Sleek glass towers now define much of the city’s modern skyline, while Soviet-era apartment blocks in districts like Lasnamäe still echo the not-so-distant past. Tallinn is a city of contrasts, layered, evolving and always in motion.
Kadriorg Palace, Tallinn.
HOTEL TELEGRAAF: FIVE-STAR LUXURY WITHIN ANCIENT WALLS
Staying in the historic heart of Tallinn is an experience in itself and Hotel Telegraaf is the perfect base. This striking building with its rich Neo-Renaissance façade has been a landmark since 1878. Originally a bank, it later served as a post office and from 1918 on, it became Tallinn’s central telecommunication office. After the Soviet era, the building fell into disrepair until three Estonian entrepreneurs stepped in during the early 2000s. With great respect for its historical character, they transformed it into a five-star hotel, which opened in 2007.
Today, Hotel Telegraaf strikes a perfect balance between heritage and modern luxury. Original elements like the elegant staircase, tall ceilings and ornate façade remain intact. A new wing houses additional rooms and amenities such as a spa, swimming pool and fine-dining restaurant. Subtle nods to the building’s past are woven throughout the interior: rooms are named after inventors like Bell, Morse, Siemens, and Popov, carpets and wallpaper feature stamp and Morse code motifs and every room has a vintage telephone that still works perfectly. History and luxury go hand in hand here.
Hotel Telegraaf in the old city center of Tallinn.
Colorful traditional costumes from southern Estonia. Credit: Priidu Saart
Handgemaakte ring in 18kt witgoud met witte diamanten en een prachtige peervormige aquamarijn. Exclusief ontwerp door Maarten Slaets.
NIEUWE LOCATIE LEYSSTRAAT 1, 2000 ANTWERPEN - 03/213 50 80 SCHUTTERSHOFSTRAAT 30, 2000 ANTWERPEN - 03/226 41 44
GREEN, GREENER, GREENEST
The moment we drive out of Tallinn, we’re surrounded by nature. Over 60% of Estonia is covered in forest, interspersed with bogs, wetlands and lakes. We head west to the tiny village of Rooslepa , where deep in a vast pine forest, we discover a handful of cabins by the ÖÖD group . These small mirrored houses reflect their surroundings so perfectly that they almost disappear into the landscape. From the outside, you can barely see them and you certainly can’t see in. But from the inside, guests are treated to breathtaking, uninterrupted views of the natural world outside. It’s a brilliant concept. The cabins are compact but cleverly designed, with cozy Scandinavian interiors and all the comforts you could need. There’s a practical kitchenette, a sleek modern bathroom and outside you’ll find a sauna and barbecue area. It’s the ideal hideaway, a place to completely unwind.
A small note invites guests to place their smartphones in a designated wooden box for the duration of their stay. In the evening, as the sun sets and the sky glows orange, we sink into the armchairs on the terrace. The trees filter the fading light and the silence is broken only by birdsong and the gentle rustling of leaves. Here, slowing down and reconnecting with nature happens effortlessly.
60% of Estonia is covered by forests, interspersed with peatlands, marshes and lakes.
HAAPSALU BY THE SEA
With the warmest waters and the finest mud on the Baltic Sea, Haapsalu is a beloved seaside resort. Thanks to its narrow streets that often end at the water’s edge, it’s sometimes compared to Venice though to us, it feels above all like a quintessential Estonian town, with its colorful wooden houses and quiet charm. Haapsalu gained its reputation as a spa destination in the 19th century, when the local mud was discovered to be a miracle cure for ailments such as gout, rheumatism and skin conditions. It quickly became a hotspot for the Russian imperial nobility. We have lunch at a small local restaurant: seafood pasta and breaded white fish served with skin-on potatoes and a delicate dill sauce. Estonian cuisine is influenced by neighboring countries like Russia, Germany, Sweden and Finland, but it's been adapted to local tastes and traditions, giving rise to a unique national kitchen. Our favorite? The dark rye bread served almost everywhere. Often enriched with nuts, raisins or other dried fruits, it has a deep, complex flavor. Each restaurant or bakery seems to have its own unique take on it.
Pärnu is referred to as Estonia's summer capital due to its long tradition as a popular holiday destination.
PÄRNU: ESTONIA’S FAVORITE BEACH TOWN
Even more renowned than Haapsalu is Pärnu , often referred to as Estonia’s “summer capital” thanks to its longstanding reputation as a holiday hotspot. To this day, it’s a favorite destination for Estonians looking to sunbathe on beautiful sandy beaches or unwind in the many spa hotels and wellness retreats. It’s noticeably livelier and more bustling than Haapsalu. There are relatively few cars, but plenty of cycling and walking paths. One of the city’s standout landmarks is the canary-yellow St. Catherine’s Church , funded by Empress Catherine the Great, one of the finest examples of Russian Orthodox architecture in the country. In the evening, we stroll along the broad beachfront promenade, the perfect spot to take in a glorious sunset over the Baltic.
PÄDASTE MANOR: SLEEP LIKE A NOBLE
No journey through Estonia would be complete without a visit to its major islands. Saaremaa is the largest, famous for its castles, windmills and spa culture. Hiiumaa is quieter and wilder, known for dense forests and unspoiled coastlines. The small but characterful island of Muhu is the gateway to the West Estonian archipelago. From the harbor town of Virtsu , a short ferry ride takes us across to this enchanting island chain.
In our search for unique places to stay, we uncover a true gem. Nestled among old trees and wide-open meadows on the shore of the Baltic Sea, Pädaste Manor on Muhu Island is utterly captivating. This elegant 16th-century estate, once the residence of Baltic-German nobility, has retained all of its grandeur thanks to meticulous restorations. Today, it has been transformed into a refined boutique hotel where history and contemporary luxury blend seamlessly. The manor’s main building with its large windows, soft pastel hues and classical symmetry, still radiates the atmosphere of a noble residence. Inside, peace and quiet reign. The wooden floors gently creak underfoot, modern designer furniture in warm tones contrasts with antique details and every room offers sweeping views of the park and rolling landscape. The spa is housed in the estate’s former coach house. Treatments are inspired by ancient Estonian wellness traditions. We indulge in healing mud baths and are pampered with aromatic herbal therapies. A true balm for body and soul.
Pädaste Manor on Muhu is a historic manor house from the 16th century that has been transformed into a luxurious boutique hotel.
In the evening, we dine at the award-winning Alexander Restaurant . We opt for the tasting menu and are treated to a series of exquisite dishes. Each course is a small revelation: unfamiliar flavors, surprising pairings and everything prepared with ingredients sourced locally from nearby farmers and fishermen or harvested in the manor’s own garden. This is Nordic Islands’ Cuisine at its finest. Pädaste is more than a hotel, it’s an experience. A place where every moment feels like a rare and precious gift.
The stately interior of Pädaste Manor.
SAAREMAA: A WORLD AWAY
From Muhu, it’s just a short hop to neighboring Saaremaa , connected by a 3.5-kilometre-long causeway. Much like Muhu, Saaremaa feels like a place where time has stood still. We drive past fields awash in a rainbow of colors - red, yellow, purple, pink, and white - depending on which wildflowers are in bloom: poppies, broom, heather, peonies and plantain. Neatly bundled hay bales dot the meadows, ready for collection. In the island’s picturesque villages, old traditions and folklore still live on. Saaremaa’s charm is undeniable with its iconic wooden windmills, thatched farmhouses and winding country roads leading to deserted beaches and tranquil bays. It’s a joy to cruise these roads in our Panamera.
The island’s capital, Kuressaare , is often called one of Estonia’s most romantic towns and we couldn’t agree more. It’s a sunny Sunday and the café terraces are buzzing with life. We stroll past elegant 18th-century neoclassical buildings, many of which house artisan boutiques selling handmade crafts. The town’s main attraction is the formidable Arensburg Castle , a commanding medieval stronghold that has watched over the region for centuries. With its sturdy limestone walls, distinctive square tower, heavy drawbridge and wide moat, it’s without doubt the best-preserved castle in the Baltic region. Throughout its long history, it has had many owners. Built in the 14th century by a German knightly order, it later became the residence of German bishops. In the 17th century, Swedish troops and administrators moved in, followed by Russian forces in the 18th century. Today, the castle serves as a museum that vividly brings its layered past to life. We wander through shadowy corridors, admire ancient weapons and uncover tales of knights, wars, pirates and everyday island life through the ages. What sets Arensburg Castle apart is its atmosphere. It’s not a dusty relic, but a place where history breathes and tells its own stories.
The island of Saaremaa has a unique charm, with its characteristic windmills, thatched farmhouses and winding roads leading to deserted beaches.
THE MAGIC OF MIDSUMMER NIGHT
As much as we’ve enjoyed the calm and beauty of the islands, we return to the mainland — and for a very good reason. Gabriella , our tennis partner (Estonian by origin, Belgian by residence), has invited us to join her family for Midsummer Night celebrations. Known in Estonia as Jaanipäev , this traditional holiday takes place on June 23rd and 24th and is one of the country’s most cherished and deeply rooted festivals. Friends and families gather around large bonfires to celebrate the summer solstice and the shortest night of the year. Our destination is Neeme , a charming fishing village about an hour’s drive from Tallinn, where Gabriella’s father owns a summer home. When we arrive, the barbecue is already sizzling and the table is filled with smiling guests. We’re treated to a feast of grilled meats and fish, homemade salads, potatoes and that everpresent dark rye bread.
Later in the evening, we walk to the village square where a large bonfire blazes brightly. For the women, a flower crown is essential. Woven on the spot with wildflowers and fragrant herbs, it’s a beautiful tradition that adds to the magic of the night. It’s pouring rain, but the mood couldn’t be brighter. People laugh, sing and bond like old friends. Some will stay awake until sunrise, a mystical moment that, according to folklore, can make wishes come true. We don’t make it quite that far. Happy and deeply moved by this unforgettable experience, we drive back to Hotel Telegraaf - by now our trusted home base in Tallinn - feeling grateful to have witnessed such a meaningful celebration from up close.
On Midsummer’s Night,
friends and families gather around large bonfires to celebrate the solstice and the shortest night of the year.
Gabriela Kallas and daughter Alexandra.
EASTERN ESTONIA: BETWEEN TWO WORLDS
Today, we follow Route 1 , officially known as Põhimaantee 1 (T1 for short), the main road connecting Tallinn to Narva on the Russian border, a journey of around 210 kilometers. On the map, T1 appears as a long, horizontal artery cutting across the country. The road is in remarkably good condition. During the Soviet era, this route was of major strategic importance as the direct connection between Tallinn and Leningrad (now St. Petersburg). Even today, it remains a priority for infrastructure investment. This time as part of a key east-west corridor within the European transport network.
As we drive further east, the landscape begins to change. Expansive forests still line the road, but they become
increasingly interrupted by industrial zones, some with abandoned factories or mines, remnants of the Soviet era. Gradually, we feel the shift from a Scandinavian-oriented to a Russian-influenced Estonia; from Western Europe to a post-Soviet reality. Suddenly, road signs and billboards appear in Russian. Villages are lined with grey Soviet-era apartment blocks, their facades bare and lifeless. The atmosphere is raw, a bit melancholic marked by economic decline and depopulation. It’s not the kind of place you linger, but one whose history demands attention.
On our way to Narva, we clearly notice the shift from a Scandinavian-oriented to a Russian-influenced Estonia.
NARVA: SCARRED BORDER TOWN
Narva leaves a lasting impression. Nowhere else in Estonia does the shadow of the Iron Curtain feel so tangible. Two imposing castles face each other across the Narva River, marking - as they have for centuries - the border between East and West, between Europe and Russia. On one bank stands Estonia’s Hermann Castle ; directly across the water is Russia’s Ivangorod Fortress . In today’s climate of geopolitical tension, it’s a striking and sobering sight. Four flags fly proudly atop Hermann Castle: those of Estonia, Narva, the European Union and Ukraine. A powerful - and perhaps deliberately provocative - message.
It’s hard to imagine now, but Narva was once as wealthy and influential as Tallinn. In the 17th century, it was a prominent port city within the Swedish Empire and by the 19th century, a thriving center of the cotton and textile industries. Its baroque city center was a point of pride. Almost none of it remains. Few European cities suffered as much devastation during World War II as Narva. In 1944, the historic heart of the city was flattened by intense bombing. After the war, like the rest of Estonia, Narva fell under Soviet rule. Instead of restoring the old city, the remains were bulldozed to make way for austere Soviet apartment blocks. These were populated by Russian immigrants brought in to work at nearby power plants and furniture factories. Today, Estonians are a minority in Narva. Around 90% of the population speaks only Russian. It’s a place where the national identity feels diluted, even fragile.
The imposing Hermann Castle.
A NEW RUSSIAN THREAT?
In Narva, with Russia quite literally on the opposite riverbank, the question arises: What if? What if Russia were to invade Estonia? Is that a real threat? Do locals fear such a possibility? As we ask around, the answer quickly becomes clear: since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in 2022, vigilance has become a way of life. Not just in Estonia, but across all three Baltic states. The Kremlin’s aggression is seen as a clear warning: Moscow is willing to use force against neighbors seeking to break free from its sphere of influence. Estonia, with its painful Soviet past, is well aware of how unpredictable Russian ambitions can be. The country is now investing heavily in defense and finds reassurance in its NATO membership. The presence of international forces on Estonian soil offers a vital sense of security. The general consensus? An attack on Estonia would be a colossal risk — even for a despotic leader like Putin. But Estonians remain vigilant.
A CAYMAN AT THE BORDER
Daniel Levin , our man with the Porsche Cayman, rejoins us for the final leg. He’s driven all the way from Tallinn to Narva. “I’ve never had a photo of my Porsche at the border,” he said. “It’s a beautiful drive and a great opportunity to push the pedal a bit deeper.” Once there, he’s clearly thrilled by the dramatic backdrops we find for the photos. “I’d never have dared to come here on my own,” he admits, looking around. The atmosphere is both exhilarating and slightly uneasy. Are we even allowed to take photos here? Before long, the border police show up. Stern expressions, passports on the table, sharp questions: What are you doing here? What will you do with the photos? For a moment, it feels like this could go badly. But the tension quickly dissipates. In fact, the officers turn out to be curious and friendly. With a smile, they offer to guide us to an even better spot with a clear view of the river and both fortresses. There’s just one condition: they’d like a copy of the photos afterward. A surprising deal and one that gave our shoot far more edge and character than we ever expected.
SILLAMÄE: SECRETS AND FADED GRANDEUR
There’s one last stop on our itinerary: the town of Sillamäe , just a twenty-minute drive from Narva. The contrast with the rest of Estonia is so strong, we can hardly believe our eyes. Just half an hour ago, we were surrounded by grim Soviet-era apartment blocks and looming fortresses and now we find ourselves in what feels like a surreal stage set of Stalinist neoclassical architecture. Broad, symmetrical boulevards are flanked by stately mansions adorned with columns, balconies and perfectly balanced facades as if a slice of Moscow had been carefully lifted and transplanted here. A grand central avenue descends from a monumental staircase all the way down to the shores of the Baltic Sea.
The history of Sillamäe is as extraordinary as its appearance. Once a charming seaside retreat for the Russian aristocracy, known for its wooden villas and views over the Gulf of Finland, the town’s fate took a dramatic turn in 1946, when uranium was discovered underground. Almost overnight, a factory was built as part of the Soviet nuclear weapons program and the town was transformed into a closed, high-security enclave. To keep the nuclear activities secret, Sillamäe was given the codename R-6685 and literally erased from maps. Entry was permitted only with special authorization, which was granted exclusively to Russians as Moscow didn’t trust the potentially dissident Estonian population. For the privileged group, a model city was constructed, grand in ambition: a showcase of Soviet wealth and progress. But behind the imperial façade lay a golden cage, a world of control, isolation and military ambition. The highly educated Russian engineers and scientists may have lived in luxury, but they did so under constant surveillance.
When uranium production ceased in 1990, the city was largely left untouched. Today, about 14,000 residents remain, most of them descendants of the original Russian population. Unsurprisingly, Russian remains the dominant language. Walking through Sillamäe feels like stepping onto a movie set: abandoned, surreal, and frozen in time.
The town of Sillamäe is an almost surreal setting of neoclassical, Stalinist monumental architecture.
Imposing boulevard to the Baltic Sea, Sillamäe.
ESTONIA: A JOURNEY OF SURPRISE AND SIGNIFICANCE
Estonia is a country of contrasts. A land where well-preserved medieval towns, untamed natural beauty and the ghosts of a turbulent past coexist in striking harmony. From the cobbled alleys of Tallinn to the whispering trees in national parks, from the charm of sun-drenched seaside towns to the haunting silence of Soviet-era bunkers in the east: Estonia tells many stories and each invites you to look beyond the obvious. ♦
With thanks to:
- Jussi Pärnpuu, CEO Porsche Estonia
- Kristi Hürri, Marketing Porsche Estonia
- Indrek Jürisoo, www.porschedrive.ee
- Kati Aus, www.visitsaaremaa.ee
- Jana Kutsinskaja, Tourism Marketing Estonia, visitestonia.com
- Rita Kaup, General Manager Hotel Telegraaf, www.telegraafhotel.com
- Oskar Zahharov, Marketing Project Manager, www.oodhotels.com
- Michael Stenner, General Manager Pädaste Manor, www.padaste.ee
- Gabriela Kallas, thanks to your Estonian roots, we discovered a truly beautiful country.
- Ruth Kallas, our guide in Tallinn
- Daniel Levin, Porsche-owner
Anesthesiologist
Daniel
Levin shares his story. Focus and control – both in the operating room and on the road.
stonia has a surprising number of Porsche enthusiasts. One of them is 37-year-old Daniel Levin, an anesthesiologist and intensive care specialist who loves spending his free time behind the wheel of his Porsche Cayman. We meet him in Tallinn to talk about his work as a doctor, his family, and his many passions.
Text: Kathleen Van Bremdt - Photos: Sven Hoyaux
We notice you’re carrying a small, basic Nokia phone. A conscious choice?
Yes, I’ve had it for about two months now. I can call and text with it – nothing more – and that’s just fine. I realized how hooked I was on my smartphone. Always scrolling, chasing news alerts, watching videos I got nothing out of, and so on. I come from the pre-mobile era. I remember a time when we didn’t need any of that. I wanted to find some peace again, to stop exposing myself to constant stimulation during every break, and to really think for myself again. It started as a three-day experiment, which turned into a week, and now it’s been two months – and I genuinely feel liberated. I’ve realized I don’t need to be constantly connected. For example, I walked from my home to your hotel today – a 40-minute walk – with no earbuds in. Just me and my thoughts. It was wonderful. Don’t get me wrong – I’m not a digital illiterate. I still check my emails and browse social media in the evenings, but I keep it limited. I highly recommend it.
“In my eyes, a Porsche is still the best German car out there.”
Daniel Levin
Daniel Levin.
Can you introduce yourself in a few words?
Professionally, I’m a doctor specializing in anesthesiology and intensive care. I currently work in a private hospital. Before that, I worked in a public hospital, both in the operating room and in the ICU. I also spent two years as part of a rapid response team, deploying to emergencies and accidents by ambulance and helicopter. That was intense and demanding work. In acute situations – like major traffic accidents with severe blood loss, fractures, or multiple organ failure – you have to stay calm. You’re the one leading the team. If you panic, everything falls apart.
In my free time, I enjoy playing piano and guitar, going for drives in my Porsche, and spending as much time as possible with my two kids, who are 6 and 12.
Why did you choose to study medicine?
I come from a long line of doctors. My great-grandfather studied medicine in Tartu more than a hundred years ago. If I’m counting correctly, I’m the nineteenth doctor in the family. I’ve always had broad interests – music, literature, history… But in the end, I chose medicine. I thought: I can keep my passions as hobbies, while also having a stable and meaningful profession. I’ve also always had a natural affinity for biology and chemistry, so in that sense, the choice felt very logical.
So you always have to stay in control?
Exactly. Before every operation, I start by assessing the patient’s overall health. Based on that, I choose the most suitable type of anesthesia. During the procedure, I’m responsible for administering and continuously adjusting the anesthesia to ensure it remains effective. At the same time, I’m constantly monitoring the patient’s vital signs – heart rate, blood pressure, oxygen saturation, and breathing. After surgery, I make sure the patient wakes up safely and comfortably. If necessary, I create a post-op pain management plan. I often explain it to students like this: an anesthesiologist is like an alligator. Most of the time, we lie still and watchful by the riverbank. But the moment something happens, we have to spring into action fast. Our goal is actually for the day to be as uneventful as possible – because if things get exciting, it usually means something’s gone wrong. Just like pilots have two critical moments – takeoff and landing – we have the induction of anesthesia and the patient’s awakening. Those moments demand maximum focus and care.
“I come from a long line of doctors. If I’ve counted correctly, I’m the nineteenth doctor in my family.”
Daniel Levin
And how did you end up in anesthesiology?
That was a very conscious decision. Almost everyone who starts studying medicine dreams of becoming a surgeon. Surgeons are the rock stars of the hospital – the blood, the cutting, the drama… it really captures the imagination.But over time, I realized that the surgical world is incredibly tough. It’s a constant battle – for the most interesting procedures, for your place on the team, and for your path to the top. And once you get there, you have to keep proving yourself to younger colleagues who are just as ambitious and eager to take your spot. That’s the case everywhere, not just in Estonia.
Is it really that competitive?
Absolutely. The first 10 to 15 years are all about climbing the ladder, and once you’ve reached the top, it’s about holding your ground. That kind of environment doesn’t suit me. Anesthesiology may be less glamorous, but it’s the backbone of the hospital. When something goes wrong, you’re the first one they call. Plus, the field is incredibly diverse – you’re involved in surgeries, intensive care, emergency medicine, and pain management. It’s a very versatile profession.
You moved from a public hospital to a private one. Why?
Three years ago, I was offered the opportunity to build an entirely new department from scratch at a private hospital. It was a challenge I simply couldn’t pass up. At the public hospital, my work had started to feel like routine — and I’m not someone who thrives on repetition. Now, I’m leading a department I built myself, from the ground up. At the same time I’m still working in the public hospital to keep my skills sharp handling the more difficult cases.
Do you see a different kind of patient in a private hospital?
Yes, definitely. Our patients tend to be financially well-off and generally healthy. We don’t operate on elderly or seriously ill patients because we lack extensive support departments like cardiology or neurology. In a large public hospital, you have all those specialists available 24/7. If something serious happens in our facility, we have to call an ambulance and that’s something we want to avoid at all costs, because it wastes precious time.
You clearly like change. Any other ambitions?
Yes, I’m starting to feel like I’m ready for a new challenge. (laughs) My department at the private hospital now runs like clockwork. I still enjoy working there, but I’m not as essential as I was in the beginning. And there’s one job I’ve always dreamed of. I’ve been a huge Formula 1 fan for as long as I can remember. At four years old, I was already glued to the TV on Sundays, watching the races and that passion never faded. Every Formula 1 team has a doctor. And often, that doctor is an anesthesiologist. Why? Because we’re experts in the respiratory system which plays a crucial role in elite sports, especially for drivers. If I ever got the chance to enter that world, it would be the perfect fusion of my two passions. And honestly, I have the right profile: I’m a physician, specialized in anesthesia and intensive care, with experience in emergency response and high-pressure situations. I speak Estonian, Russian, and English, and I know how to act quickly and accurately when it counts. Maybe it’s time I put that dream out into the world just a little.
“The Cayman is perfect in size and balance. It has a mid-engine layout, is agile, and delivers pure driving pleasure.”
Daniel Levin
That brings us seamlessly to Porsche. Why Porsche?
Doesn’t every 10-year-old boy dream of owning a Porsche? I was no different. I’ve loved driving ever since I was a kid. My aunt actually taught me how to drive when I was about 10 or 11, on small country roads. Later, I owned an Audi and then a BMW – always manual, always sporty. But when my BMW needed replacing, I thought: maybe now’s the time for a Porsche. In my eyes, it’s still the best German car out there. The Cayman is my only car. I drive it every day, even through Estonia’s harsh winters and it handles just fine.
Many enthusiasts dream of owning a 911. You chose a Cayman. The new 911s have become a bit too big for my taste, and they’ve lost that raw, analog feel I loved in earlier models. The Cayman is just right in terms of size and balance. With its mid-engine layout, it’s agile and offers pure driving pleasure. I deliberately chose the four-cylinder version because it has more torque lower in the rev range. The only downside? The sound. The four-cylinder just doesn’t have the same growl as the six. But I can live with that. (laughs) I love driving twisty roads most of all. That sense of freedom, speed, and precision: that’s what it’s all about for me.
There’s a notable Russian-speaking population in Tallinn. Do you speak Russian yourself?
Yes. About 40% of the people here in Tallinn speak Russian. As a doctor, it’s really useful to know the language. There’s no law requiring me to speak Russian, but it definitely makes my job a lot easier. For me, it’s all about helping the patient as best as possible and smooth communication is essential for that.
Where do you prefer to go on vacation?
Most of the time, I stay in Estonia and head to my parents’ summer house about 70 kilometers east of Tallinn. It’s by the sea, with a beautiful beach and some nice restaurants. But when I travel further, I often visit family in the United States or Israel. My father is Jewish, my mother Estonian. My father’s family is scattered all over the world, while my mother’s family lives in Estonia.
These are tense times. Do you feel threatened by Russia? Honestly, it’s not something I dwell on. But if war were to break out, I’d put my kids on the first flight to Miami, where a large part of my family lives. I would stay in Estonia. That’s a settled matter. I’m a doctor, and I feel a responsibility towards the Estonian people.
Finally, your tattoos stand out. They must have special meaning?
Absolutely. I was 31 when I got my first tattoo. It started with my daughters’ names, but in Morse code. I wanted something subtle, not too obvious. This one says Iris, and this one Nora (he points to his arm). I also have the hand of the Statue of Liberty tattooed because New York is my favorite city. The guitar strings, piano keys, and musical staff symbolize my love of music. This one is the logo of my favorite band. And this drawing represents the transience of life: we all start with a full bucket, but as time passes, only drops are left scattered in the wind. ♦
Daniel, thank you for this wonderful conversation.
From Luxury Hotels Around the World to Peaceful Muhu Island.
Michael Stenner, CEO Pädaste Manor.
n the small Estonian island of Muhu, Michael Stenner passionately runs the exclusive Pädaste Manor. His life reads like an adventure novel filled with renowned international hotels, exotic destinations, and encounters with royalty.
Text: Kathleen Van Bremdt - Photos: Sven Hoyaux
What is the history of Pädaste Manor?
Pädaste Manor was first mentioned in 1566, though it may date back as far as the 14th century. Its heyday came in the 19th century, when Baltic-German nobility favored the Estonian islands as a retreat. The von Buxhoeveden family, in particular, lived here for many generations. After the estate was expropriated in 1919 and later used during Soviet times, it fell into disrepair. When the current owners bought the property in 1995, it was completely overgrown. They paid a for that time substantial amount for the entire estate. The buildings were in such poor condition that they could hardly be called houses anymore. Still, the owners saw its potential and began restoration work. I first came here in 1998, when I was managing Tallinn’s first five-star hotel, the Schlössle Hotel.
So you discovered the hotel by chance?
Yes, just as a guest. The owners were true hobby hoteliers. It’s amazing how they transformed everything – the buildings, guesthouse, staff quarters, park, gardens, and more – with such dedication and respect for the historic character of the estate. It was a multi-year project, but it paid off. Today, Pädaste Manor is one of the most beautiful luxury accommodations in the Baltic region.
How did you end up here yourself?
In January 2025, I was asked to run the hotel, a challenge I gladly accepted with great enthusiasm.
“Pädaste Manor was first mentioned in 1566, though it may date back to the 14th century.”
Michael Stenner
Michael Stenner.
Where are you from originally?
I was born in West Germany, in a small village near the Dutch border. When I was sixteen, I dreamed of working in the hotel industry. I left school and began hotel training in Bavaria. My first job was at the Sheraton in Frankfurt.
And that’s when your global adventure began.
Something like that! (laughs) I went to South Africa and spent a year and a half at Cascades Hotel in Sun City as Assistant Front Office Manager. Then I moved to Windhoek in Namibia. After that, I worked for a year in the Comoros in the Indian Ocean. I returned to Windhoek for almost three years. In 1994, I decided to come back to Europe and ended up in Düsseldorf. In 1997, a headhunter approached me to come to Estonia and open a small boutique hotel.
Did you have any connection to Estonia at the time?
Not at all. To me, Estonia still felt like "Russia" back then. But I didn’t want to turn down the headhunter – you never know when you might need someone again – so I said, “Sure, book me a flight.” I just intended to take a quick look and politely decline. But things turned out differently. I arrived in Tallinn in August 1997. The weather was beautiful, people were sitting outside on terraces… it almost felt like Africa. I was instantly charmed. I signed the contract and moved to Tallinn that November. But by then, winter had hit: grey, cold, and dark. That sunny vibe was gone, and I honestly didn’t think I’d last long. But the job made up for a lot.
“When royalty stays at your hotel, everything has to be even more perfect than usual.”
Michael Stenner
Which hotel did you open back then?
That was the Schlössle Hotel, Estonia’s first five-star hotel. It opened in April 1998. Later, the owner bought an old hotel in the city center and converted it into a four-star property: the Hotel St. Petersbourg, which is now known as the Burman Hotel. I was involved in that project as well.
You’ve got quite a bit of experience opening hotels. How do you even begin such a project? A lot depends on the owners and their vision. It starts with choosing the interior design, furniture, tableware, bed linens – everything has to be ordered. Then you need to find the right staff for all departments, which is often a real challenge. The marketing phase usually kicks off about six months before the opening to start building buzz.
What nationalities do your guests at Pädaste Manor typically have?
Before the war in Ukraine, we had many Russian guests. That’s no longer the case, as the borders are mostly closed and the Estonian government doesn’t really welcome them. In high season – June, July, and August – we see many guests from Central Europe: Germans, Swiss, Austrians, and Brits. Until recently, we also had a good number of Americans, but since the war, they’ve become a bit more cautious. Now we’re seeing more Latvians discovering our hotel. Latvia doesn’t have islands of its own, so Estonia is attractive to them. And the Finns too: they used to only visit Tallinn, but now they’re starting to explore the islands.
How many rooms does the hotel have?
We have 24 rooms spread across the estate, including a farmhouse with four rooms. In total, we can accommodate about 65 guests. The main building has 14 spacious rooms, some with balconies.
You’ve lived in Estonia for many years now. What draws you to the country?
First: my friends. My first friends here were Russian, which helped me integrate into society. Later I also made many Estonian friends. Estonians are reserved, but once you win their hearts, they’re friends for life. Second: I love the summers here. They’re absolutely fantastic. Third: I’ve had the privilege of managing the best hotels in the country.
You’ve likely met some high-profile guests during your career.
As a child, I read the book Hotel Adlon , about a girl who grew up among kings, queens, and celebrities in the famous Berlin hotel. I dreamed of that life and it came true. In 2001, Prince Charles stayed at the Schlössle Hotel, shortly after his divorce from Diana. Since then, I’ve met many royals, including Queen Elizabeth and Prince Philip, the King and Queen of Belgium, the Emperor and Empress of Japan, and Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands.
Why is hosting royals so special?
Because everything has to be even more perfect than usual – from the rooms and food to the flowers and staff uniforms. It often takes months of preparation. But it’s fantastic. And when they’re actually in the hotel, the staff is always incredibly proud.
What are your future plans?
To be honest, I’ve started thinking about retirement. I’ll turn 62 in December. My dream is to return to the village where I was born, close to my family and old friends. I’ve already bought an apartment there. The landscape is flat, perfect for cycling – just like when I was 15.
Do you have any plans for Pädaste?
The season is short. Normally, we close for the winter, but I’d like to change that. I want to stay open through New Year’s and then close for just two months. ♦
Michael, thank you so much for this wonderful conversation.
ZORGELOOS ZEKER,
Le Doux & Mortelmans
Exclusieve wagens verdienen een exclusieve autoverzekering. En dat liefst met een scherpe premie. In samenwerking met een aantal topverzekeraars heeft Le Doux & Mortelmans een reeks speciale autopolissen op de markt gebracht, vól exclusieve voordelen waar u en uw Porsche van kunnen genieten.
Persoonlijke aanpak. Een autoverzekering voor exclusieve wagens is maatwerk. Wij streven ernaar om steeds de beste combinatie van premie, polisvoorwaarden en eventuele aanvullende eisen voor u te vinden.
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Le Doux & Mortelmans - Part of Vandelanotte
| KORTRIJK | BRUSSEL
Porsche in Estonia: about Passion, Perfection,
and Building a Community.
Interview with Jussi Pärnpuu, CEO of Porsche Center Estonia.
rom education to the automotive world: Jussi Pärnpuu transformed his idealism into action, establishing a strong Porsche brand in a relatively small market. What drives him? How does he view his customers? And how has he managed to create more than just a dealership – a close-knit community, or as he calls it, a tribe?
Text: Kathleen Van Bremdt - Photos: Sven Hoyaux
Jussi, tell us – who are you?
Well, who am I? I ask myself that sometimes too. (laughs) But alright – I was born in Tallinn in 1966. Apart from two years of military service in Russia and two years of studying in Germany, I’ve lived my whole life in Estonia. I studied at the Waldorf university in Stuttgart, as I wanted to become a Waldorf teacher. I’ve always found it fascinating that the Waldorf philosophy places the child at the center, tailoring the curriculum to each individual’s needs and talents.
So how did you go from education into the car industry?
After finishing my studies in Germany, I worked as a teacher and translator. But that wasn’t enough to make a living. So I taught during the day and worked nights as a taxi driver. At the time, many Estonians had two jobs – it was the only way to get by. One day, I was asked to act as a translator during a contract negotiation in Wolfsburg for the first Volkswagen-Audi dealership in Estonia. After the talks, the owner turned to me and said: “Would you like to set up and run this company?” And that’s how my automotive career started – in 1992.
Jussi Pärnpuu.
Just after Estonia regained its independence. A remarkable time. Absolutely. We were emerging from a harsh Soviet era, and suddenly anything was possible – but everything had to be built from scratch. One year after independence, the Estonian kroon was introduced – a turning point. Estonians had three days to exchange a maximum of 1,500 Soviet rubles into Estonian kroons. One kroon was worth ten rubles. Anyone with more money simply lost it, because the ruble had no value in Estonia after that. It was a kind of “great equalizer.” Everyone ended up with just 150 kroons – essentially nothing – but everyone had the same chance to start something. That had a huge impact on me.
So you moved from one car brand to the next?
That’s right. I first built up the Volkswagen-Audi dealership. In 2005, we added Škoda. And in 2007, I set my sights on Porsche. It took five years to secure the contract, but in 2012, we finally made it happen — and since then, we’ve firmly established Porsche in the Estonian market.
How do you build that community in practice?
Mainly through events — like our Porsche Festival. This year will be our tenth edition. We’re expecting around 400 cars and 800 guests. We host circuit activities, a classic rally, an off-road course for SUVs, luxury catering, and an evening party with live music. There’s even a cigar lounge. We put an incredible amount of effort into the details. Even the music selection and menu are carefully curated. This year, for example, we’re serving a southern German menu — with Leberkäse, Currywurst, Spätzle, and Strudel. Our events are so exclusive that some people actually buy a Porsche just to get invited. I’m not joking.
"Building a community is essential at Porsche. Customers need to feel like they’re part of something special."
Jussi Pärnpuu
Was Porsche not represented in Estonia before that?
There was a small dealer, but they sold only about 20 cars per year. We started completely from scratch, but took a very professional approach right from the beginning. Today, we’re selling over 300 Porsches a year.
That’s impressive growth. How did you achieve that?
I always stick to three core principles. First: make sure your foundation is flawless. Everything has to be clear and efficiently organized — admin, HR, billing, internal workflows, you name it. Second: know your customers. And I mean really know them. Learn what drives them, what they care about, what they value.
And the third pillar?
Build a community — I call it a tribe — a group of people who feel connected to the brand and to each other. That’s essential for a luxury brand like Porsche. All cars today are technically good. But with Porsche, it’s about emotion, about brand experience. And you have to amplify that experience — by making your customers feel like they’re part of something special. That’s how you build not just loyalty, but pride and deep engagement.
What kind of people are your customers?
Our typical customer is a successful man around 50 to 55 years old — often the owner of a medium-sized company with 50 to 100 employees, usually involved in high-tech manufacturing. These are people with a passion for technology and a refined lifestyle. Many Estonians are almost obsessed with technical detail. When they buy a Porsche, they don’t want the standard pitch about horsepower and options. No — they’ll ask how the variable geometry turbo works, or how many pistons the brake caliper has. They want to know if the hood is made of metal or aluminum. They’re true tech enthusiasts who love to dive deep into the details.
Is that a typical Estonian trait, you think?
Yes, Estonians value technology above all else. They don’t buy a Porsche to show off — they buy it because it’s a personal dream. Something they’ve worked hard for, often over many years. Luxury means something different in Estonia. Estonians value things that were once out of reach during the Soviet era. In Belgium or Germany, luxury is more taken for granted. Here, you really have to earn it.
What are the must-haves for your sales team?
Our salespeople are typically in their early forties. You can’t put a 20-year-old in front of a successful man in his fifties. I pay my sales staff well because I want them to experience the same lifestyle as our customers: driving a Porsche, going on luxury trips, enjoying the finer things in life. They need to know the difference between a good and a bad whisky, and which golf resorts are worth visiting. They should be able to talk about sailing, hunting, horse racing — you name it. Often, a customer walks in with a fully configured car already. All the salesperson can do is give detailed advice — like suggesting not to choose a bright red car with a black interior, because it’s harder to resell. In the end, it’s all about personal connection. And that only happens when the salesperson genuinely understands the client’s world and interests. That’s how it works in Estonia.
Do you have a favorite Porsche model yourself?
Yes, the Cayman GTS. To me, that’s a pure sports car: small, light, and perfectly balanced. I also own a 997 Carrera with a factory-installed power kit. Also a fantastic car. I really love compact models. Cars keep getting bigger, and I’m not a fan of that.
Which Porsche is currently the bestseller in Estonia?
Right now, it’s the 911. It’s very popular here. The Panamera is also a steady performer. How important is motorsport for your business?
Very important. We have our own racing company and offer our customers a full trackday service. We’ve bought 18 Cup cars from Weissach and sold them to clients who race in the Porsche Carrera Cup Nordics and Benelux. Our customers show up with nothing but their helmet — we take care of everything else: the car, maintenance, logistics, even training. Motorsport is community-building in its purest form. It creates a real bond between us and our clients.
How do you see the future of Porsche in Estonia?
Estonians are becoming increasingly affluent, and they care more than ever about quality. Porsche now has a strong reputation here, but we’re not resting on our laurels. We’ll continue to invest — in our community, in top-tier quality, and above all, in creating unexpected experiences. Offer more and offer the unexpected. That’s our key to long-term success. ♦
Jussi, thank you for this inspiring conversation.
Porsche Center Tallinn.
