JT Winter 2023

Happiness Blossoms Inspired by May bells.

Designed to spread happiness.

Chosen wHh Pmssilon

ProuJ}y 100% New ZernlanJ owneJ"

••

Star Gems & Jewe[[ery 0800 DIAMONDS / 0800 342 666 Auckland CBD – PO BOX 105000, Auckland City 1143, Auckland, New Zealand Mobile numbers: Tilak021-541151 Sahil 021-1755113 www.stargems.co.nz info@stargems.co.nz

BUYING GROUP

More than just a Buying Group

Join the Showcase Family Benefit from our wealth of knowledge and expertise encased in a comprehensive range of services and resources essential for the modern independent Jewellery retailer covering merchandise, marketing, finance, administration, retail, training and education. But most importantly join a collective of like minded peers to connect and grow alongside. Get in touch today: Email: enquiries@jimaco.com | Phone: +61 2 8566 1800 Visit: showcasejewellersbuyinggroup.com

2 JT2023 WINTER

JT2023 WINTER 3

Publisher/Advertising Debbie Whiting Phone: 09 378 1222 Mobile: 0274 777 955 inklink@xtra.co.nz www.jewellerytime.co.nz

Editor Debra Douglas Mobile: 021 185 6846 chaucer@xtra.co.nz

2023

Jewellers & Watchmakers PO Box 16007, Hornby, Christchurch 8441, New Zealand Executive Secretary: Craig Anderson, Phone +64 (0)21 596 988 info@jwnz.co.nz, www.jwnz.co.nz Digital Copies Digital copies of our previous four issues are available at www.jewellerytime.co.nz and www.jwnz.co.nz.

The official magazine of The Jewellers and Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

CONTENTS 6

Talkback

Terms and Conditions Jewellery Time is the official magazine of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

8

News

20

A celebration of craftsmanship

InkLink Publications Ltd. publishes Jewellery Time on behalf of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated reserves the right at any time and without notice or liability to any party cancel, omit or alter any editorial or advertisement and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and the publisher for all damages or liabilities arising from the published material.

22

The year of the rabbit

23

Silver sculptures from the King of Bling

24

WHAT’S HOT - JWNZ Spring Fair 2023

28

A tale of two fairs

30

Meet the designer …

32

At the beginning

33

Restoring the pearl of the Orient

35

With a shimmer

36

Goldsmiths Guild of NZ

38

JWNZ President’s Report

38

Obituary

40

Watchmakers’ Institute of NZ

40

Retailers Review

41

Jewellery Industry Registration Board

43

JWNZ Executive Notes

44

New Products and Services

Copyright Reproduction rights in part or full of the contents of this magazine must be obtained with the permission of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and or the publisher.

Disclaimer The views and opinions expressed in this magazine are purely those of the authors and are not necessarily the official views of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated nor those of the publisher.

UPCOMING JT DEADLINES SPRING 2023 (JWNZ TRADE FAIR SPECIAL) BOOKING AND EDITORIAL: AUGUST 9 AD MATERIAL: AUGUST 16 MAGAZINE POSTED: AUGUST 23 SUMMER 2023 BOOKING AND EDITORIAL: NOVEMBER 3 AD MATERIAL: NOVEMBER 10 MAGAZINE POSTED: NOVEMBER 27 AUTUMN 2024 BOOKING AND EDITORIAL: FEBRUARY 15 AD MATERIAL: FEBRUARY 22 MAGAZINE POSTED: FEBRUARY 29

Happiness blossoms Powered by Eco-Drive technology and inspired by the delicate beauty of May Bells, the CITIZEN L collection features four new models, each with a diamond at the 8 o’clock position, inspired by a single glistening raindrop on one of the plant’s bell-shaped flowers.

Like their inspiration, these watches evoke feelings of joy and happiness every time you look at your wrist.

Published by InkLink Publications PO Box 46-218, Herne Bay, Auckland 1147 Design/Prepress by Rex Eade, Eade Gallery, Ph 027 286 0438, rex@eadegallery.co.nz Printed by Soar Communications Group Ltd (SCG) Registered as a magazine at the GPO, Wellington.

ISSN 1170-9960.

Happiness Blossoms Inspired by May bells.

Designed to spread happiness.

Contact: Citizen Watches New Zealand, (Northern Region), Mark Raddon, M +64 212427631.

(Southern Region), Keith Mann, M +64 272460492, https://www.citizenwatches.com.au.

The Pacific Time team are excited to showcase our extensive range including watch parts – watch straps, batteries, tools and accessories, Rochet Jewellery and Boccia Titanium Watches and Jewellery. All available at competitive pricing from our online store.

TALKBACK Introducing Geoff Kidd, Managing Director, PEKA ...

Where do you live and who do you share your home with? I’m based in Christchurch and live with my wife Emily and our two daughters Mila and Lola. Lola was born a few weeks ago, so it’s all go in our household but we are having plenty of fun.

What happened in your working life before your association with PEKA...

I worked in the alcohol industry for a long time across a range of different roles, primarily in sales, marketing and customer service.

What was the attraction of the career move? My wife and I had been looking for an exciting career change for a couple of years and when the opportunity to run an established wholesale jewellery business presented itself it was too good to pass up. I was particularly drawn to the company's reputation for excellence and its commitment to quality and I'm excited to be part of a fantastic team dedicated to providing great service.

What is PEKA’s core business and what other services does the company offer? We have a broad range of products at PEKA, specialising in chain, findings, pearls, earrings and pendants.

We have a very experienced workshop team who provide services such as electroplating and pearl and chain servicing. We pride ourselves in our ability to tailor our services to meet the specific and ever changing needs of our customers.

Who does PEKA supply? PEKA is a wholesale jewellery provider, so we deal only with the trade. We have a wide range of customers ranging from pounamu carvers right through to high street retailers and manufacturing jewellers throughout New Zealand, Australia and the Pacific Islands.

What’s the best trade advice you have been given and by whom? Perrin Jones, the previous owner, told me he was never too concerned about what other companies were doing, he would just focus on providing the best possible service from PEKA. I couldn’t agree 6 JT2023 WINTER

more and believe we should continually be striving to improve the way we do business with our customers.

What were your impressions of March’s Hong Kong jewellery & gem fairs – we believe it was your first visit? I was blown away by the size and scale of the Hong Kong fairs. We had a fantastic time meeting up with our suppliers and sourcing some exciting new products to introduce to our range.

After a hiatus due to COVID it was great to see a strong turn out from exhibitors and visitors.

What was on your shopping list in Hong Kong? Our long list mainly consisted of pearls and fortunately we managed to source almost everything that we were looking for. We were also keeping an eye out for new chains, findings and pendants and were impressed with the designs and quality of the new pieces that we found.

PEKA will be exhibiting at the JWNZ Spring’23 Trade Fair, what will visitors see on your tables? A big focus for us this year is ensuring that we continue to improve our range and include some exciting products for our customers, so there will be plenty of new pieces on our tables this year!

Tell us about two special/memorable moments in your working career ... I managed Speight’s for several years and as part of that we launched a TV commercial telling the story of a guy helping his mate learn to dance for his wedding. It was a heap of fun and it managed to win an award for the best marketing campaign in NZ. The other highlight would have to be meeting my wife at my previous job and sharing my own wedding dance with her!

How do you relax away from the business? With two young girls I don’t get much time to put the feet up, but we love getting out for a family walk to the park or heading away for a weekend.

Tell us something that few people know about you ... I used to do a lot

Geoff Kidd

of drawing and painting when I was younger and have picked it up again in recent years. I’ve done a couple of paintings in the last 12 months and am currently working on a charcoal and graphite drawing which is a very challenging, but fun project.

Best winter holiday destination … and why? Wanaka. So close to the ski fields, plenty of great food options and most of all there is a playground about 20m from where we stay, which our 2-yearold loves!

What is the most important lesson life has taught you? I’m a firm believer in treating others the way you would like to be treated, so I always make an effort to smile and treat people with respect. It’s amazing how much a smile can change a person’s day.

What is the most adventurous thing you have done? It would have to either be a bungy jump off the Auckland Harbour Bridge or a sky dive in Wanaka.

Couldn’t pick which was more terrifying but I must say the sky dive ended up being fantastic.

Do you have a favourite piece of personal jewellery? The only piece of jewellery I wear is my wedding ring, which we had made from gold I found with my father-in-law in Central Otago.

If there was one special luxury item you would like to buy for yourself today, what would that be? I’d have to say a new watch; there are a lot of stunning options out there.

NEWS IT’S THE ONLY ONE

Promoted with a price tag of US$20,000,000, a diamond-encrusted timepiece from Jacob & Co is a new contender for the world’s most expensive production watch.

The latest Jacob & Co Billionaire Timeless Treasure watch is unremarkable in a horological sense, housing a skeleton Jacob & Co handwound JCAM39 movement powering hours, minutes and a one-minute tourbillon. The value is in the gem setting, with 217 carats of yellow diamonds covering every surface of the watch and its bracelet. These 425 gems in Fancy Yellow and Fancy Intense Yellow colour give way to a row of green tsavorites framing the skeletonised dial. The Billionaire skeleton tourbillon movement is also adorned with another 57 yellow baguette-cut diamonds.

Only one is being made.

RARE PINK ROSE

Rio Tinto has unveiled the latest heirloom piece of Argyle Pink Diamonds TM jewellery, featuring one of the last diamonds to be mined from the Argyle mine in the East Kimberley, Western Australia.

Exclusively designed by Western Australian jeweller Solid Gold Diamonds, the Argyle Rose TM is notable for featuring a total of 3.25 carats of rare Argyle pink and blue diamonds encrusted in a rose motif, surrounded by white diamonds and handset in platinum and 18ct gold.

The heart of this piece is an extremely rare 1.36 carat, Fancy Deep Pink radiant cut diamond. It is just one of 12 radiant cut diamonds over one carat with a colour grading, 1P, from the last 30 years of production from Argyle. The surrounding petaled design of pink and blue Argyle Diamonds™ totals 1.89 carats, together with 2.80 carats of white diamonds. The Argyle Rose TM can be worn as a ring or statement pendant and is available for sale for A$2 million.

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NOT A GOOD LOOK

In new ethics and sustainability rankings published for the jewellery sector, luxury Maison Tiffany & Co has received the worst overall score. The rankings, published by independent research organisation, The Good Shopping Guide, rated 18 brands in the jewellery sector on their ethical impact, giving each brand a score out of 100 based on an assessment of the companies’ practices towards the environment, animals and people.

With a low score of 33, Tiffany & Co received the worst score out of the 18 brands assessed. Also ranked in the Ethical Jewellery Ratings Table were: Pandora, with a score of 85; Swarovski, with a score of 69; Thomas Sabo, with a score of 62; and Cartier, with a score of 54.

Sell with us.

Entries are invited for our forthcoming Fine Jewels, Watches & Luxury Accessories live auction and online auctions.

We seek jewels of interest and significance, such as Diamond Solitaires in rings, pendants and earrings. Entries of scintillating diamond and coloured stone jewellery in bracelets, necklets and drop earrings are also welcomed.

We have extended consignments to include jewellery from International Maisons such as Cartier, Tiffany & Co., Chanel and Bulgari, and are also looking to attract designer décor and homewares. High-quality timepieces are always desired, particularly Swiss automatic watches and precious metal pocket watches.

We are achieving excellent results on internationallydesired leather goods and accessories from coveted brands Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Prada, Christian Dior, and many more.

Contact our specialist team now for a complimentary appraisal to bring your luxury accessories to market. We would love to hear from you.

Christine Power AJP (GIA) Head of Fine Jewels, Watches & Luxury Accessories christinep@webbs.co.nz +64 27 929 5607

auckland 33a Normanby Road Mount Eden Auckland 1024 +64 9 529 5600 wellington 23 Marion Street Te Aro Wellington 6011 +64 4 555 6001

Auctions Private Sales Valuations webbs.co.nz

NEWS RED CARPET PEARL GLAMOUR

Lil Nas X Evan.

Kiwi filmmaker Taika Waititi and his wife singer Rita Ora turned heads at the Met Gala in New York. Dressed in a black sheer gown with a dramatic train, Rita was reportedly wearing NZ$145,000 worth of Buccellati jewellery, including a gold cuff, pearl bracelet and cocktail earrings. She also flaunted long fingernail diamond extensions.

Taika sported a gun metal blazer, white trousers, two long pearl necklaces and a black floral corsage.

Meanwhile, tennis champion Serena Williams combined Paloma Picasso and Ziegfeld Collection pearl necklaces with Tiffany Victoria earrings and a Tiffany T True ring, while American rapper, singer and songwriter Lil Nas X wore pearls, gems and silver body paint meticulously executed by

IMAGE: AGOSTINI/INVISION/AP

Dressed to impress, Taiki Waititi and Rita Ora. IMAGE: DAVID FISHER/SHUTTERSTOCK

Serena Williams with husband Alexis Ohanian. IMAGE: EVAN AGOSTINI/INVISION/AP

Kim Kardashian’s ensemble was not easy to walk in.

IMAGE: VEGAN / BACKGRID

Precious Gem Imports Ltd

DIAMONDS OF DISTINCTION Roger McKinnon

Joy Thavat

Freephone 0800 PGI GEM or 0800 744 436 10 JT2023 WINTER

influential British make-up artist Dame Pat McGrath.

The event is known as fashion's biggest night out and hosted a swathe of stars at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. This year's theme was ’Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty’, in honour of the late fashion designer.

The night out, however, was not so ‘pearlfect’ for reality star Kim Kardashian clad in a Schiaparelli Haute Couture look, comprising of a blush satin corset and more than 50,000 freshwater pearls and 16,000 crystal pearls. When Kim returned to her hotel after the gala, several of the look’s many pearl strands snapped, sending the gems spilling down onto the New York City streets.

HONG KONG WATCH & CLOCK FAIR

The HKTDC Watch & Clock Fair is returning Sept 5-9 2023 and will be held at the HK Convention & Exhibition Centre.

The 40th HK Watch & Clock Design Competition will also be held during the fair.

International visitors who want to visit the fair and reconnect with their manufacturers in China no longer need to do PCR tests to visit Mainland China. The only obstacle is the wait time for visas, which can be up to three months.

For more information re Fair visitor VIP packages contact: Jarrett Ho, Jarrett.m.ho@hktdc.org, Ph. +61 2 8986 2809.

The 2022 Watch & Clock Fair attracted more than 6,200 industry buyers.

POTENTIAL RECORD BREAKER

The world’s largest ruby to appear at auction will be offered at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels auction in New York on June 8. Named the Estrela de FURA, it weighs 55.22 carats.

Sotheby’s has placed an estimate of more than US$30 million that, if achieved, would likely be the most valuable ruby ever sold at auction.

The finished ruby was cut and polished from a 101-carat rough discovered by FURA Gems, a coloured gemstone mining and marketing company based in Dubai. It was unearthed at its ruby mine in Montepeuz, Mozambique, in July, 2022. The company named the rough gem Estrela de FURA (Star of FURA in Portuguese).

Even in its rough, untouched state, the ruby “was considered by experts as an exceptional treasure of nature for its fluorescence, outstanding clarity and vivid red hue, known as ‘pigeon’s blood’ - a colour traditionally associated only with Burmese rubies,” Sotheby’s said in a statement.

The current world record for any ruby sold at auction is US$30.3 million for the “Sunrise Ruby,” a 25.59ct Burmese ruby sold at Sotheby’s Geneva in 2015.

COLOURED GEMSTONES

NEW ZEALAND’S PREMIUM GEMSTONE STOCKIST P.O. Box 37597 Parnell, Auckland Phone (09) 3778 038 Email sales@preciousgem.co.nz Fax (09) 309 6807 Website www.preciousgem.co.nz JT2023 WINTER 11

NEWS ADDING SPICE TO A PROPOSAL

The new Day-Date 36 comes in 18ct yellow gold (US$55,000), as well as 18ct white and Everose gold (both US$57,900).

ROLEX’S HAPPY DAYS

The latest version of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 will tell you the time, plus provide a word of support and a cheerful emoji in lieu of the day of the week and day of the month, respectively. There are seven words that appear in place of the day of the week at the 12 o’clock aperture: Happy, Eternity, Gratitude, Peace, Faith, Love, and Hope.

Instead of the month’s date, the 3 o’clock window showcases one of 31 emojis, like a heart. Its eye-catching champlevé enamel dial depicts brightly coloured puzzle pieces in shades like fuchsia and turquoise, with baguette-cut multicolour sapphires for hour markers.

Starring DJ Anfisa Letyago

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FURLA_SS23_FD002-Display_247x297.5mm.indd 3

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2/8/23 3:28 PM

Consumers were enticed to bag themselves a sweet Easter’23 deal, as an engagement ring inspired by the Hot Cross Bun went on sale for £3,990.

The ring created by Jessica Flinn Jewellers, Sheffield, UK, was served with a cross of crystal clear baguette-cut white diamonds, with a round brilliant cut salt and pepper diamond at its centre. A collection of decadent round brilliant-cut and marquise-cut cognac diamonds mimicked a freshly-baked bun, which was topped with a couple of marquise-cut black diamonds to replicate raisins. Buyers could choose from a buttery yellow gold setting to finish the look, or a rose gold band to match the glaze.

The ring was packaged in an egg box filled with plush velvet and scented with the smell of fresh hot cross buns.

GETTING TO THE HEART OF THE MATTER

The De Beers Institute of Diamonds has recently analysed an unusual rough diamond at its facilities in Maidenhead, UK. This 0.329 carat, D-colour, Type IaAB diamond was found to have an internal cavity enclosing a smaller diamond that is trapped, yet free to move around within the space.

Initial conclusions suggest the cavity was formed due to preferential etching of an intermediate layer of poor-quality fibrous diamond. The original ‘core’ would have consisted of good-quality diamond growth. However, a subsequent layer of growth was likely poor and fibrous, followed by a further ‘outer coating’ of gem-quality crystal. At some point between its formation and travel to the surface of the Earth, the poor-quality layer etched away. Only the better quality material ‘survived’ this process - the outer diamond and the core - which, in this case, led to a diamond that can freely move around within an inner space.

The specimen, named The Beating Heart Diamond will not be cut and polished and will instead be maintained for research and educational purposes.

Optical image showing a small diamond crystal nestled in the cavity of a 0.329ct rough diamond.

TIGER, TIGER …

Seen at the Masters of Horology exhibition at Geneva’s Watch Week, organised by the Academy of Independent Watchmakers, was renowned Russian inventor Konstantin Chaykin’s Smilodon latest model. The master has given his new ‘wristmon’ the features of a long-extinct prehistoric predator, the smilodon, otherwise known as the sabre-tooth tiger. Its open mouth houses the day of the week indicator developed by Chaykin.

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JT2023 WINTER 13

NEWS

For all your battery needs

SKILLS TO BE SHARED AT SYDNEY FAIR

Head online to discover our full range of Silver Oxide, Lithium, Alkaline, Hearing Aid Batteries and more

The Jewellery Industry Fair (JIF) to be held August 26th – 28th 2023 at The Carriageworks, one of Sydney’s most iconic creative venues, will bring leading jewellery suppliers together as well as feature presentations from a list of industry experts.

A new element to the Fair is the addition of business services companies, who will share their know-how with guests in the areas of: Marketing, HR, Finance, Technology, Merchandising and Occupational Health and Safety.

Fair organiser Laura Moore says: “It is important for us to deliver elements to our event that will leave guests feeling inspired and excited about their next stage in business and we certainly think the line- up at this event will do that and more.”’

JIF speakers: Paola De Luca, founder of The Futurist Ltd, a research and creative intelligence company in the global luxury sector. Her discussions will focus on consumer shifts and how the industry can keep up with jewellery trends set globally.

Damien Cody is the President of the ICA (International Colored Gemstone Association) and Executive Director Cody Opal Australia Pty Ltd and Cody Gemtec Retail Pty Ltd. Damien will discuss the next steps of the ICA and how they assist the coloured gemstone market.

Alessio Boschi has won many prestigious awards, most recently being the International Jewellery Design Excellence Award Hong Kong. Alessio will share his design inspiration with guests on stage.

Andrea Pooler, Hill & Co., has advised some of the largest manufacturers, retailers and designers on how to grow their businesses, leveraging her expertise and acute insights to understand their needs and goals.

Rami Baron is CEO of the Australian Jewellers Consortium and Q Report Jewellery Insurance and will share his insights on jewellery technology for your business.

Register for the Fair: https://sydney.jewelleryindustryfair. com/ 14 JT2023 WINTER

About Time Ltd Watchmakers, Jewellers, Gemmologists and Valuers Dealers in Fine Wristwatches and Time Pieces

About Time specialises in the Servicing, Restoration and Sale of High Quality Wristwatch and Time Pieces. As New Zealand’s largest dealer in pre-owned wristwatches we are always on the hunt for Parts, Semi Complete and Complete watches we can either restore ourselves or use for parts. We are particularly looking for anything to do with OMEGA, ROLEX, LONGINES, HEUER, IWC (International Watch Co.) BREITLING or anything INTERESTING. Do you have any of these items we are interested in buying. We are looking for a wide range of things. New or Used parts, Cases, Dials, Movements, complete or semi complete watches and even old uncollected repairs. Any quantity from a single dial to a complete workshop full.

We will even look at buying complete watchmaking businesses where an owner is retiring or where a business is phasing out of doing their own repairs. Below are some of the things we need. If in doubt CALL US. We are prepared to travel to view items, accumulations or complete workshops.

If you have any of these items or things you feel we “COULD” be interested in. We would like to hear from you.

Please contact Neal or Rebecca by email or call us on 09 281 4138

OMEGA, Cases, Movements, Dials Bracelets ANYTHING

ANY ROLEX TOOLS OR EQUIPMENT

ROLEX, Cases, Movements, Dials, Bracelets ANYTHING

ANY INTERESTING WATCHES Regarless of Condition

About Time Ltd

Watchmakers, Jewellers, Gemmologists and Valuers 324 Remuera Road, Auckland Phone: 09 281 4138, Mobile: 021 974 349, Email: admin@abouttime.co.nz Website: www.abouttime.co.nz

NEWS REMINISCENCE AND ROYALTY

THEIR WORLD WAS THE OYSTER

Faberge’s new Treillage Collection is inspired by the Diamond Trellis Egg, created

by Fabergé in 1892. The evocative designs, with their soft, tactile and gem-set quilting, represent the perfect marriage of heritage and modernity. The Treillage Brushed Rose Gold & Diamond Set Ruby Heart Surprise Locket features round white diamonds, set in an 18ct brushed rose gold egg pendant measuring just 18mm.

And in celebration of the coronation of King Charles III, the company introduced a new commemorative locket to its Heritage collection. The Heritage Coronation Crown Surprise Locket is inspired by St Edward’s Crown, the crown used at the moment of coronation and one of the nation’s most precious treasures. The Fabergé Crown Surprise is crafted from 18ct yellow gold, hand-decorated in a majestic purple lacquer and is set with four round blue sapphires,10 round Gemfields Zambian emeralds and two round Gemfields Mozambican rubies and sits upon a carved carnelian stone platform.

Archaeologists say they have found the oldest pearling town in the Persian Gulf on an island off one of the northern sheikhdoms of the United Arab Emirates.

Artifacts found in this town on Siniyah Island in Umm al-Quwain, likely once home to thousands of people and hundreds of homes, date as far back as the region's pre-Islamic history in the late 6th century. While older pearling towns have been mentioned in historical texts, this represents the first-time archaeologists say they have physically found one from this ancient era across the nations of the Persian Gulf.

In the homes, archaeologists have discovered loose pearls and diving weights, which the free divers used to quickly drop down to the seabed while relying only on their held breath.

Those searching the site found a dumpsite nearby filled with the detritus of millions of discarded oyster shells.

People walking across the island can feel those remains crunching under their feet in areas as well.

D I S C O V E R

F I N E S T

W O R L D ' S

Q U A L I T Y

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16 JT2023 WINTER

O P A L S

wholesale.ikecho.com.au

NZ Agent: Fabuleux Vous I +64 0274 203 137

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact: Helen Finlayson The Brand Agent

evo2

M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact: Helen Finlayson The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

JT2023 WINTER 17

NEWS CITIZEN CELEBRATES A CENTURY

The Walt Disney Company is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year and Citizen is joining in on the festivities with a new, year-long campaign. In January, Citizen started releasing new Disney-inspired watches on its website, accompanied by the story and inspiration behind its design as well as character trivia.

The character line-up, all powered by Eco-Drive, includes Disney icons like Mickey Mouse and Donald Duck as well as Marvel and Star Wars characters, which also fall under the Disney umbrella.

Each of the 14 watches will celebrate a decade of Disney, from the 1920s to present day. For example, the special edition 40mm Mickey Mouse Fanfare watch which has a gold-tone stainless steel case, with a brown textured leather strap and features Mickey in a top hat on the dial. Along the outer border of the dial are hidden Mickeys in a 1920s Art Deco style. It also comes with a collectible pin.

The Mickey Mouse Fanfare Watch features an Art Deco style that harks back to the company’s founding in the 1920s.

HOW TIME FLIES

In keeping with a series of objects introduced in 2022 by Van Cleef & Arpels, the Eveil du Cyclamen automaton combines the reading of time on the base with a spectacle inspired by nature.

At the heart of a delicate bouquet of cyclamen, the butterfly preciously flapping captivates the eye. Adorned with diamonds, emeralds, lapis lazuli and plique-à-jour enamel, its body flutters above the creation. Airbrush-lacquered one by one in successive layers, the flowers display subtle nuances of pink and purple, identical from one bud to another.

The automaton stirs to life on a base of two pieces of green aventurine and a bowl of purple jade. As a final detail, a flower of rose gold, lacquer and diamonds overlooks the rotating ring at the base of the piece, illuminating the course of the hours.

A STAR TURN

At the 21st annual Gem Awards, Jewelers of America celebrated the US industry’s brightest stars. The Gem Award for Jewelry Design went to Los Angeles-based Anita Ko, of Anita Ko Jewelry.

VIEW THE RANGE AT 18 JT2023 WINTER

Anita’s pavé diamond oval bracelet, with an emerald cut blue sapphire centre-set in 18ct yellow gold - US$80,850.

HTTPS://WWW.PACIFICTIME.CO.NZ

A SUNFLOWER SETTING

Diamond exporter, Hari Krishna Exports Pvt Ltd. and Hari Krishna Group distributor, HK Designs, have become Guinness World Record title holders for ‘Most diamonds set in one ring.’

The title was awarded in Mumbai for a sunflower-inspired ring called Eutierria, which features 50,907 set diamonds. The ring is structured with eight parts, including: four layers of petals, the shank, two diamond discs and a butterfly. The diamond weight is

130.19 carats. It has a retail value of US$785,645.

The ring’s name, Eutierria, means becoming one with nature - further demonstrating the company’s commitment to sustainability and the planet. The HK Group has committed to planting one tree for each diamond which has been set in the ring to support climate action and contribute to a sustainable future.

GIRL TAKES CENTRE STAGE

Swatch celebrated the 100th anniversary of pop artist Roy Lichtenstein’s birth with a pair of new watches made in collaboration with New York’s Museum of Modern Art. The two vibrant Swatch x MoMA watches use artwork from MoMA’s Lichtenstein collection, blending his comic-style art and single-colour Benday dots for affordable Swatch watches.

Lichtenstein’s flair for innovation led him to design a rotating easel and his famous Benday technique that is on the reverse of this watch strap. The power of a smile is mesmerising and Swatch reproduces the famous artwork GIRL (1963), with the blonde woman taking centre stage.

Something to suit every age and taste.

A huge selection of earrings, rings, necklets, brooches and bangles.

All hand crafted in sterling silver, individually bead set with top quality Swarovski marcasites and semiprecious stones.

Make a statement with this emerald green enamelled pendant 72-569, or these fabulous NEW enamelled rose earrings set with garnet and green agate drops 43-346.

The matching ring 18-1081 is a beautiful bold piece and you can complete the full set with a pendant, 72-819 (not featured).

Contact: AM IMPORTS PTY LTD www.amimports.com or NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown M. 021-751 115 E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

JT2023 WINTER 19

A celebration of craftsmanship The INHORGENTA AWARD honours creative works in the fields of watches, jewellery, gemstones and retail concepts. The much-coveted awards were announced during an exclusive gala event as part of INHORGENTA MUNICH 2023. Among the ten prize winners, two of which are selected by the trade audience at the show, were …

Left: To qualify for the Inhorgenta High Jewellery award, brands and businesses had to submit pieces with a retail price of EUR 30,000 or more. The winner of the High Jewellery category was Chandigarh, India designer Pavit Gujral and her bold crab earrings, crafted in 18ct gold, with 22.90 carats of tanzanites, orange and pink sapphires, rubies, plus more yellow sapphires, diamond briolettes and 5.55 carats of round brilliant-cut diamonds.

Right: Fine Jewellery winner BINDER Jewellery took the prize on the night for its three dimensional Perception collection bracelet. Perception is available in 750 yellow gold, as well as in 925 silver and 925 silver black rhodium.

Left: The Designer of the Year accolade went to Athens-based jeweller Theodora D who specialises in conceptual and sculptural gold pieces. Inspired by fire and its movement, the standout Flamenco ring in gold vermeil and silver reflects the folds of fabric, to give the impression of movement and fluidity.

Right: Germany’s Gerhard Hahn Fine Gems won the Gemstone Design of the Year category for its striking bi-colour sapphire with a modified brilliant step-cut.

Origin probably Madagascar.

Left: Boltenstern scooped Fashion Jewellery for its Fabnora Mix and Match earrings combining feather-light 3D-printed pendants and handcrafted precious metal components. The Austrian company used recycled 925 sterling silver and recycled 925 sterling silver gold plated, lightweight 3D printed polyamide and Austrian crystal.

Right: The Design Newcomer winner Margaret Hipp from the Pforzheim Goldsmith School impressed with her Piscis earrings. These mobile earrings are inspired by the German painter Max Ernst’s artwork ‘Bone Forest’. The basic idea is based on the bones of a fish.

Each consisting of seven individual gold elements that form a unit by a size progression and thus move elegantly.

20 JT2023 WINTER

NEWS STAR OF THE SHOW

Actress Marlene Dietrich acquired this Van Cleef & Arpels ruby and diamond bracelet in 1937 and wore it in the 1950 Alfred Hitchcock film ‘Stage Fright’. In 1992, Anne Eisenhower purchased the piece. Now, it’s headlining Christie’s ‘The Magnificent Jewels of Anne Eisenhower’ auction this June.

A member of one of America’s preeminent families, interior designer and philanthropist Eisenhower (19492022) was the granddaughter of the 34th president of the United States, Dwight D. Eisenhower.

The ‘Jarretière’ bracelet is expected to earn up to US$4.5 million.

BACK IN BUSINESS

Jewellery & Gem ASIA Hong Kong (JGA), previously known as the June Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, is taking over the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre (HKCEC) from 22 to 25 June, marking the first time that the show is returning to its true form since 2019.

The CORE Pavilion hosts Hong Kong’s major jewellery makers, highlighting the city’s standing as a jewellery design and manufacturing hub. The Fine Gem Pavilion (FGP) brings together renowned suppliers who will present premium-quality diamonds, coloured gemstones and pearls coveted by fine jewellery manufacturers, legacy brands and collectors. Major jewellers, meanwhile, will launch design-focused collections and one-of-a-kind creations at the Fine Design Pavilion (FDP).

JT2023 WINTER 21

The year of the rabbit The Chinese Zodiac dates back to the Qin Dynasty more than 2,000 years ago and is rooted in a system of zoolatry (or animal worship). As the legend goes, the Jade Emperor challenged all the animals in the Kingdom to a ‘Great Race’.

Whoever arrived at his palace first would win his favour.

Known for his speed, the rabbit was sure that he would win the race and was particularly positive that he would beat the ox, his slowpoke neighbour.

On the day of the race, the rabbit got a head start at dawn. He was in the lead but exhausted, so thinking that he had the race in the bag, he decided to

take a nap. But when he woke up, three other animals had already crossed the finish line, including the ox.

Because of that unfortunate nap the rabbits are known for being quiet, dreamy and imaginative. But don’t underestimate them, because though they seem timid, they’re quick-witted,

strategic and ambitious.

Those born under this sign are said to be kind and earnest individuals with charismatic personalities who, behind their sweet and soft appearances, hide quiet confidence and strength.

Ready to hop into a jewel box for 2023…

Raymond C. Yard’s brooch in gold, white gold, coloured gemstones and diamonds.

Van Cleef & Arpels: Lapin clips in white gold, emerald, onyx, snowflake obsidian and diamonds.

9ct rose gold necklace from Karen Walker.

Thomas Sabo: Sterling silver and enamel charm.

Baroque pearl rabbit brooch in gold, pearl, coloured gemstones and diamonds by Pragnell.

Mimi So’s Wonderland pink opal ring in gold and diamonds.

Roberto Coin ring in white gold, brown diamonds, blue sapphire, orange sapphire and natural green garnet.

Rabbit brooch in gold, white gold and pearl

by Mikimoto.

From La vie en Rose collection by Lydia Courteille. The bunny rabbit mask is set with pink sapphires and morganites in pink gold.

22 JT2023 WINTER

Silver sculptures from the King of Bling A British institution, Theo Fennell, is the 'King of Bling', jeweller to the stars, legendary silversmith, creative entrepreneur and, thanks to the recent autobiography (I Fear For This Boy: Some Chapters of Accidents), bona fide author.

Described as one of Britain's greatest living artisans, Theo has been synonymous with distinctive silver jewellery and objects for more than 40 years.

Left: A cased pair of silver baseball menu holders: Theo Fennell: "These were really just for fun, designed of course for the baseball player or the baseball fan. The lovely thing is you can enamel your team colours or whatever onto them.”

Right: A cased silver horse head bowl: "This is obviously something horse people would love, but these horse heads are real art. All three horse heads are modelled on a specific horse and that’s why they are so convincing.”

His work recently featured in 'A Toast To Sport', a Sotheby's auction.

Right: A cased set of ten silver gamebird stirrup cups: "Stirrup cups are obviously a hunting thing - in the old days, before you went fox hunting, when you were in the stirrup, you were handed a glass that couldn’t stand up until it was empty. Of course, now they’re used for quite grand picnics rather than hunting."

Right: Silver baseball helmet and American football helmet bottle stoppers: "Again, this would be for an American football fan, or a baseball fan. They’re the ideal presents for a man who has everything.”

JT2023 WINTER 23

JT presents a special preview of a selection of the latest product to be showcased at the

2023 JWNZ Spring Trade Fair RNZYS, Westhaven, Auckland

September 10th.

ESSE 72-819 Pendant Stunning pendant featuring pink enamelled roses with garnet centre and green agate drop, framed with bead set marcasites.

(Matching ring and earrings also available).

Contact AM IMPORTS Pty Ltd, NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P. 021 751 115 or E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

Come and see NZ’s largest selection of STG, 9ct/18ct Gold & Platinum chain including fresh new styles. Loose, finished or fabricated to your requirements.

Contact info@peka.co.nz www.peka.co.nz, Ph: 0800 892 432

Forever Custom.

Another Nationwide EXCLUSIVE. Interactive jewellery design/manufacture software. Fully rendered images supported with live retail quotations. A custom design platform all your sales team can use. www.nationwidejewellers.com.au

BECKS Signature collection showcases the trending styles from the core of the extensive BECKS range. For both our customers and their clients, we stand by three powerful words. Long live love.

Contact Customer Service 0800 443 991

Rochet Jewellery Model Stanford HB7606: Bracelet with polished steel and 3 navy flat, braided and round leather straps 21cm. Adjustable.

RRP $89.95 – also available in brown, green and black.

View our full range www.pacifictime.co.nz Contact Pacific Time sales@pacifictime.co.nz

Platinum Pressed Oval 6 claw, low shank setting. Also available in Round, tall and low.

Contact Julie at NZ Findings 09-4789950 or sales@nzfindings.co.nz

Over 8500 Tools and Consumables that are durable and reliable. From hand tools, equipment, supplies and more. We have a variety of pieces offering everything you need to create amazing jewelley.

Contact RD Jewellery - rdjewellery.com.au Email: sales@rdij.com.au Ph: +61 2 9212 2011 Mob: +61 418 678 184

The Elmasonic P series ultrasonic cleaners are designed for the professional user. The P series offers 20% more ultrasonic power than any other comparable cleaner. P series ultrasonic cleaning units are available in six different tank sizes.

Visit our website – save time, buy online www.elma-ultrasonic.co.nz

Industry Merchandise Performance Data.

Exclusive access to information identifying the best-selling products in the jewellery industry. A must-have for all jewellery retailers. www.nationwidejewellers.com.au

Boccia Model 3350-01 Pure Titanium, Subsidiary second, 3 bar water resistant, leather strap.

37mm. RRP $275 – also available in brown, black and tan strap View our full range www.pacifictime.co.nz Contact Pacific Time sales@pacifictime.co.nz

Diamonds by DGA Featuring the most beautiful selection of jewellery finished to the highest quality, our range includes 9K and 18K gold diamond earrings, bracelets, rings and pendants. The settings include; claw, invisible, illusion plate pavé and micro pavé. Our natural diamonds are high-quality colour/clarity, and all ethically sourced.

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

New additions to our selection of Opal rings, earrings and pendants.

Stunning gold & pearls. A taste of what’s to come at the JWNZ Spring Trade Fair from the team at Regal.

Contact Solar Jewellery by K H Plank Ltd, info@solarjewellery.co.nz, Ph: 09 427 9171, solarjewellery.co.nz

Contact The Regal Sales Team Phone 09 638 7378 E. Sales@regal.co.nz, www.regal.co.nz

You are light, you are golden. Glinting white topaz stones in 9ct white gold set with a freshwater cultured pearl for The Rockpool earrings. Wear them with a simple tee or match back with the Rockpool Pendant necklace for an evening look oozing with subtle glamour. Product codes: IP153-EWGBT and IP153-PWG-BT

ESSE 55-180 Brooch Beautifully detailed Victorian style brooch, set with onyx and top grade Swarovski marcasites.

Contact Ikecho Australia E: enquiry@ikecho.com.au Wholesale.ikecho.com.au

Contact AM IMPORTS Pty Ltd, NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P. 021 751 115 or E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

Introducing our new collection of modern diamond necklaces. Each necklace features a unique combination of geometric shapes, including circular, diamond, and pear-shaped designs, with rhodium-plated setting.

PEKA has an extensive range of new freshwater, South Sea and Akoya pearls in various sizes, shapes and colours. Available loose or finished.

Contact: 09 303 4666 WORTHDOUGLAS.COM

Contact info@peka.co.nz www.peka.co.nz, Ph: 0800 892 432

BECKS explores the beauty of Tantalum and Damascus in this collection that celebrates textural materials and rich patterns.

House of Bond Classics… redefined Made to order as per your requirements

Contact Customer Service 0800 443 991

Contact Sahil 021 1755 113

Boccia Model 3348-01 Pure Titanium, sapphire crystal, date, 5 bar water resistant. RRP $565 – also available in gold with white face.

View our full range www.pacifictime.co.nz Contact Pacific Time sales@pacifictime.co.nz

Diamonds by DGA Featuring the most beautiful selection of jewellery finished to the highest quality, our range includes 9K and 18K gold diamond earrings, bracelets, rings and pendants. The settings include; claw, invisible, illusion plate pavé and micro pavé. Our natural diamonds are high-quality colour/clarity, and all ethically sourced.

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

House of Bond Add a splash of colour from our collection Delectable multi-colour sapphire drop earrings Contact Marienne 022 352 2105

Platinum round 4 claw pendant.

Also available in 18ct YG & 18ct WG Matching studs with threaded posts also available.

Contact Julie at NZ Findings 09-4789950 or sales@nzfindings.co.nz

Green Amethyst. A new gemstone colour recently added to our collection.

Contact Solar Jewellery by K H Plank Ltd, info@solarjewellery.co.nz, Ph: 09 427 9171, solarjewellery.co.nz

We guarantee your business will be more profitable with Nationwide. The buying power of 400+ stores combined with a sophisticated finance model enables Nationwide to deliver the most profitable discount structure in the industry. www.nationwidejewellers.com.au

House of Bond Meeting all your custom needs, from design to delivery Contact Sahil 021 1755 113

Lab-grown Dimond Jewellery Featuring our exquisite lab-grown diamond jewellery that adds luxury to any outfit.

Our lab-grown diamonds are high-quality in colour/clarity, sustainable, and affordable.

Whether you prefer a simple ring or a more detailed necklace or bracelet, we have options for every style and budget.

Contact Satish Kathiriya M. 022 101 3235, E. satish@lagani.co.nz

ESSE 43-342 BTP Earrings Gorgeous long drop-earrings set with rectangle Blue Topaz and marcasites and blue enamelled accents. Very elegant.

(Matching pendant also available).

Contact AM IMPORTS Pty Ltd, NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P. 021 751 115 or E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

Steam cleaning or steam jet technology is another core competence from Elma. Up to 8 bar steam pressure – a reliable support for precleaning in the medical hygiene area or also in the jewellery, watches and industrial areas.

Visit our website – save time, buy online www.elma-ultrasonic.co.nz

Come and explore our wide array of high quality findings including new styles and captivating designs.

Contact info@peka.co.nz www.peka.co.nz, Ph: 0800 892 432

PRE-FAIR

BOLLYWOOD

GET TOGETHER

BECKS Duet is a growing collection of ceremonial bands. Symbolic of an everlasting bond and balance in harmony. A simple statement or customised piece for him, her and them.

Contact Customer Service 0800 443 991

Saturday, Sept 9, 6pm to 8pm

Mix and match more than 800 combinations of shanks and settings with these magnetic prototypes. Available in different colours and sizes, everything you need from striking fashion statement or classic engagement rings.

Contact RD Jewellery - rdjewellery.com.au Email: sales@rdij.com.au Ph: +61 2 9212 2011 Mob: +61 418 678 184

Join us for a delicious curry and a glass of wine, beer or soda.

RNZYS Quarterdeck $30 per person, including entertainment.

Pre-paid tickets only (no door sales).

Contact info@jwnz.co.nz

Image by Freepik

A tale of two fairs

By Debbie Whiting Social distancing measures came to an end in Hong Kong just in time for the 39th Hong Kong International Jewellery Show and the 9th Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show. Organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), they were the first major trade fairs to be held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, Wan Chai, following this return to normalcy.

Speaking at the opening ceremony, Lawrence Ma, Chairman of the Fairs’ Organising Committee, said: “The twin jewellery shows are the first major international trade event since the complete lifting of anti-epidemic measures, projecting a gradual recovery of economy and trade between Hong Kong, the mainland and the rest of the world.”

The entrance hall was always a buzz. Condensed into one venue really intensified the crowd as they anticipated viewing the new ranges, ordering much-needed stock and meeting face to face with suppliers. It was such an unfamiliar international experience for many of us on our first overseas trip for a long time. Our New Zealand delegation were there in good numbers, walking the busy halls and happy to be back.

Keen participation from abroad With the global economy also moving towards normalcy, more than 2,500 exhibitors from 36 countries and regions took part. The HKTDC also organised 100 buying missions from 70 countries and regions. Twenty pavilions were set up, including those from the mainland, Taiwan, Japan,

Korea, Singapore, Sri Lanka, Thailand, India, Turkey, Israel, Germany, Italy, Belgium, Brazil, Colombia and the United States.

Renowned jewellery industry organisations, such as the Asia Pacific Creator Association, International Colored Gemstone Association, Tanzanite Foundation and T-GOLD+METS Pavilion - coorganised by the Hong Kong Jewellery & Jade Manufacturers Association and the Italian Exhibition Group - also returned, signalling the confidence of

international companies in Hong Kong as a business platform.

Themed zones gathered world-class jewellers This year’s Hong Kong International Jewellery Show featured 17 themed zones, including the Hall of the Extraordinary, Hall of Fame, Designer Galleria and World of Glamour.

Also featured at the show was the 21st Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition.

The Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show, held at the same time as the Jewellery Show, showcased the finest diamonds and pearls, as well as quality gemstones and raw materials for jewellery in the Hall of Fine Diamond, Treasures of Nature and Treasures of Ocean.

Business exchange forums A number of seminars, forums and parades were held during the twin shows to facilitate networking and keep participants abreast of the latest industry trends. These included a seminar titled ‘Hong Kong Jewellery Industry Shines over the World’ and a buyer forum on the ‘Updated Market Trend of Jewellery Market’ in ASEAN countries.

28 JT2023 WINTER

EXHIBITION+ hybrid As the pandemic accelerated the adoption of e-commerce, jewellery retailers are increasingly using social media and e-platforms to promote their brands and expand sales channels.

To help companies adapt to the new normal, the HKTDC’s EXHIBITION+ hybrid model combines physical fairs, the Click2Match smart businessmatching platform, online-to-offline seminars and forums (Intelligence Hub) and the hktdc.com Sourcing platform.

EXHIBITION+ extends face-to-face interaction and promotion activities from physical exhibitions to online.

I would encourage you all to visit this fair in 2024; the weather in March is mild and conducive to some relaxed outdoor dining, Hong Kong is a vibrant and safe city, easy to navigate with affordable transportation. Wear comfortable shoes to the fair though, as you will have a huge daily step count.

Among the Kiwi contingent, ably assisted by Jarrett Ho from HKTDC Sydney office at the fairs, were ...

Toni MacDonald and Chris Worth, Worth & Douglas.

Chris: "Finally got to attend a jewellery show again after three years and it was amazing! The atmosphere was great and we saw so many new products. Can't wait for the next one!"

Jarrett Ho with Robert Griffiths, from Grieve Diamond Jeweller.

"Good to see the confidence back in Hong Kong; great to be back at the fair after three years. It was upbeat and busy, so much better to view pieces in person not just online."

Tracy van Oostrum, Love in a Jewel and Jarrett Ho. “Always an impressive event, it was lovely to be back. Nothing compares with face-toface meetings and seeing the vast array of treasures in person.”

Next year the fair will return to two venues: HKTDC Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show Tue, 27 Feb 2024 - Sat, 02 Mar 2024 Asia World Expo

Sahil Wadhwa and Marienne Barbara, House of Bond.

Sahil: “It was great to be back, reconnect with long time suppliers and see what the world has been up to for the past 3 years.”

Patrick Thom and Geoff Kidd, PEKA Geoff: “It was great for PEKA to be back at the HK fair connecting with our suppliers.

We were able to source some very exciting new products.”

HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show Thu, 29 Feb 2024 - Mon, 04 Mar 2024 Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre

The Hong Kong Trade Development Sydney office is always looking for new companies to nominate for VIP packages (economy class flights and hotel accommodation) to visit the annual Twin Jewellery Shows. If you would like to put your company forward for nomination, please contact Jarrett Ho via Jarrett.m.ho@hktdc.org. HKTDC head office will review the nominations in the lead-up to the fairs and Jarrett will contact you if your nomination has been successful.

JT2023 WINTER 29

Meet the designer ...

Introducing designer, goldsmith and HKTDC Fair exhibitor Richard Wu. Richard started carving jade when he was young and studied jewellery design and goldsmithing in Milan, Italy. He opened his workshop, Muyue Jewelry Co. Ltd in Shenzhen, China, in 2019 and is committed to explain nature’s beauty and the philosophy of wabi-sabi.

In traditional Japanese aesthetics, wabi-sabi is a world view centred on the acceptance of transience and imperfection. The aesthetic is sometimes described as one of appreciating beauty that is ‘imperfect, impermanent and incomplete’ in nature.

Could you tell us about your art and design background? What made you become an artist/designer? Have you always wanted to be a designer?

I always loved to draw and paint, but I didn’t start art as profession, instead, I was a stone carver, carving traditional jade stone into flowers and animals and such. I got bored and wanted to create something new, so I went to Milan, Italy to study more about jewellery, design and making. I haven’t been always wanted to be a designer, but I’m comfortable with this position now.

Can you tell us more about your company / design studio?

I created a lab in a villa in Shenzhen and employ eight people. We make jewellery totally in this lab, including design, goldsmithing, stone-setting, casting and modelling.

What is ‘design’ for you?

I see design is an opportunity to make things that you’re not satisfied with into something you like.

What makes a design successful?

I think it must be unique and even better if it can touch peoples’ feelings. but that in many cases is hard.

Where does the design inspiration for your works come from?

Sometimes it is from nature and sometimes it is just an impression of my mind, mixing up things I have seen in the past.

Richard Wu.

PHOTO: DEBBIE WHITING

brand cheese grater, MUJI pencil and sketchbook and a Dyson vacuum.

Which tools do you use during design?

What is inside your toolbox? Such as software, application, hardware, books, sources of inspiration etc.?

I use a pencil, a notebook, ruler and an eraser.

How do you manage your time?

I regulate my time into sections. First, I go to the gym in the morning and start work at 10am with a cup of coffee.

I take lunch, then no break until 9 or 10 o’clock in the evening. One day off every week.

Richard Wu 18ct gold, diamond and agate Leo ring.

How would you describe your design style?

I think my designs are a bit of a combination with oriental feelings and some modernism, as I took my education from the west, but live in an oriental culture. I never use expensive stones and try to be environmentally friendly.

What are five of your favourite design items at home?

My iMac, MUJI bed sofa, a Japanese 30 JT2023 WINTER

Richard Wu fluffy earring in 18ct gold.

Richard Wu caterpillar chrysalis cocooned in an 18ct gold and diamond Ginkgo leaf ring.

Jewellery Industry Fair SYDNEY AUGUST 26 – 28, 2023 Located at the Carriageworks Sydney, a stunning and leading creative venue, the Inaugural Jewellery Industry Fair Sydney will come together with the Jewellery Industry Summit to create a leading Australasian Event for the Jewellery Industry.

Shop, advance, connect, learn, build.

Meet with Australasia’s finest jewellery suppliers and build your product ranges with dedicated companies here to support your business.

Exhibitor bookings are now open.

jewelleryindustryfair.com

Gents Chronograph Collection

Model 29509 Black Dial

Chronograph Ronda Swiss designed movement 45mm Stainless steel case & bracelet Raised index dial 100 metres water resistant Safety locking clasp Date

Model 29909 Green Dial

Model 29709 Navy Blue Dial

$389 RRP

See us at the JWNZ Trade Fair JT2023 WINTER 31

At the beginning Held in conjunction with the HKTDC International Jewellery Fair, the 24th Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition was themed: The Origin of Life.

“Everyone has an understanding of the ‘origin of life’, based on their culture, upbringing and exposure,” said the organisers. “Entrants were encouraged to make use of different elements around us, e.g. metal, wood, water, fire and earth.”

BOLD & SCULPTURAL

From designer Charlotte Romer, Studio C, Paris, her Mundus cuff.

Made up of aluminium, sandblasted and hand-polished, the jewel is adorned with a 16.25ct ‘Sky blue’ brilliant cut topaz.

WEAR AND TEAR

From Italian designer Giorgia D' Avanzo’s Amants de la Lune collection … In electroplated yellow bronze, a single earring that extends to decorate the face with a tourmaline drop, symbolising a tear.

The winner of the Open Group category was Tang Yuk Ying’s Dandelion - the Power of Life. The designer highlights the vitality of the dandelion with a rotatable corolla and demonstrates the energy of the flower with lively green garnets.

Student Group Champion was designer Mak Tin Long. His Life Cybercity is a brooch made of silver, enamel, topaz and zircon stones.

Business For Sale Retirement Beckons Presenting a Unique Opportunity

$340,000

Auckland - Relocatable

Solar Jewellery (by K.H. Plank Ltd) has operated for over 60 years across two generations with an outstanding reputation as arguably the largest supplier of NZ manufactured colour stone jewellery.

Boasting a significant product range, all stock, moulds, and samples are included in the sale.

Solar Jewellery has built a reputation for quality and innovation and their designs can be found

32 JT2023 WINTER

in retail outlets throughout NZ and Australia.

Solar Jewellery is a streamlined operation with staff and agents in place, and exceptional growth potential for a new owner.

Operating Monday to Friday from a home base, the business can easily be relocated.

This is a “gem” of an opportunity as an add-on to an existing business or for an independent owner.

Contact Dawn to register your interest today. linkbusiness.co.nz/EL04057 Dawn Engelbrecht 027 291 9904 dawn.engelbrecht@linkbusiness.co.nz

All LINK NZ offices are licensed REAA 2008

Rarely does an opportunity arise to secure an iconic and valued name in the NZ jewellery manufacturing and wholesale industry.

Restoring the pearl of the Orient The Hong Kong Pearl Cultivation Association grows Hong Kong Akoya pearls in the waters of Sai Kung, with the mission to make pearls reachable by everyone. With pearl cultivation, the Association hopes to play a part in revitalising Hong Kong's fishery and agriculture industries, create 3,000 jobs across the cultured pearl industry and promote sustainable development with like-minded people from cross-professional sectors.

As part of this initiative the association holds three-hour workshops weekly promising visitors a renewed understanding of pearls and their relationship with the ocean.

The workshop starts with a journey through the 4000-year-old pearl history

and culture and delivers a background to modern sustainable development initiatives. Participants then learn about the anatomy of pearl oysters, pearl cultivation and the delicate relationship between the ocean and humans. This leads onto shucking a pearl oyster and

Listen

Learn

Discover

• Proudly New Zealand made jewellery • 100% New Zealand sourced gold • New Zealand’s largest selection of coloured stone jewellery

discovering your own pearl. Finally, choosing from an assortment of charms and with the help of an instructor, creating an accessory with the pearl you have harvested.

For more info: www.hkpearlca.com

Create

Matariki Rings

W: solarjewellery.co.nz E: info@solarjewellery.co.nz P: +64 9 427 9171 JT2023 WINTER 33

JWNZ Spring Trade Fair 2023

Sunday 10th September 9.30am to 4.00pm Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron Westhaven, Auckland

Visitor registration open Contact Craig Anderson for details, 021 596 988, E. info@jwnz.co.nz

info@jwnz.co.nz 34 JT2023 WINTER

www.jewelleryfair.co.nz

With a shimmer It’s predicted 2023 will see the jewellery world paying homage to the iridescent nature of mother-of-pearl, with jewels with a delicate but versatile character.

Mother-of-pearl is the shiny substance you see when you prise open an oyster shell. Secreted by molluscs to coat the inside of their shells, it is characterised by the play of rainbow colours on its surface. There is no comparable material in nature, except for pearls, which are coated in nacre, the same

substance that gives mother-of-pearl its opalescence.

Mother-of-pearl comes in many colours, from white to grey-silver, all the way through to black, with bluegreens and warm golds in-between.

Here are a few pieces that could tempt street stylers and influencers …

From Sara Ho, Monacco. Inspired by the brand's characteristic monogram, these earrings display the iridescent nature of mother-of-pearl in a versatile design.

Black mother-of-pearl is shaped to look like the tear of Buddha, a symbol of life and fertility by US designer brand Ginette NY.

The Trillion brooch from Greek designer Melanie Georgacopoulos mimics the facets of a trillion-cut diamond by creating a mosaic of golden, lavender, peacock and white mother-of-pearl slices.

Aoraki/ Mount Cook Buttercup brooch.

Hand carved white mother-of-pearl shell, 9ct yellow gold, sterling silver, 9ct white gold tube catch, honey opal and moonstone

by Wellington’s Steph Lusted.

Garrard’s Desert Rose bracelet in white gold, morganite, diamond and white mother-of-pearl from its Couture High Jewellery Collection.

Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée secret pendant watch - 18ct rose gold, diamond and mother-of-pearl.

JT2023 WINTER 35

GOLDSMITHS GUILD OF NZ I’ve decided to dedicate this report to Rolf Kluger who passed away recently at the ripe old age of 92. He was a very respected and highly thought of person in the jewellery trade, particularly in the Wellington area. I first met Rolf in 1975 when I worked at Clements & Holmes and even though he was quite fiery and opinionated I enjoyed his company and always had a lot of time for him.

Ian Douglas, The Village Goldsmith, has kindly put together a comprehensive obituary for Rolf, which follows.

However, I feel compelled to include a background story which illustrates Rolf’s tenacity and the reason why I had so much admiration for him. It was the beginning of World War II and Rolf had only just arrived in New

Zealand. It was his first day at school and his mother sent him dressed in the traditional Bavarian dress for young boys - lederhosen. The fact that he was Jewish and had only just escaped the Nazis by the skin of his teeth seemed to be beyond the comprehension of the school kids at that time. Dressed in lederhosen and with a German name, his start was frightening and unpleasant.

Fortunately, the person who told me this story stepped in to protect Rolf and subsequently became a life-long friend of his.

- Brian Barrett, GGNZ Chairman Tel: 04 476 4764, 021 661 060, brian@bhbdesigns.co.nz

ROLF RAFAEL KLUGER

On the 9th of March 2023 the New Zealand jewellery trade lost one of its most influential characters. Rolf passed away at the age of 92, after having lived an innovative, creative and productive life.

He arrived in New Zealand as a young child just before the outbreak of WW2, his German parents escaping the persecution of Jews in Europe just in time. The family settled in Wellington in Aro St and then Holloway Rd. It’s here Rolf had his early education, but it soon became obvious he was actually smarter than most of the teachers.

This didn’t lead to a happy outcome, with Rolf rebelling against the system.

By mutual agreement with his parents and the school, at 14-years-old he left to begin a manufacturing jewellery apprenticeship. This apprenticeship was with Frost & Guy Ltd in Manners St, Wellington, at the time one of the largest manufacturing jewellers in the country. It was here that he learnt his skills and he proved himself an able and clever craftsman. Rolf possessed a quick and analytical brain, and despite that shortened education, he proceeded to teach himself maths and science skills. From his days growing up in Aro Valley he made friends with others who became successful builders and Rolf taught himself plumbing, along 36 JT2023 WINTER

Rolf Kluger

with general building skills. Together, he and those builder friends would buy old villas and restore and on-sell them, keeping some to rent. Rolf did all the copper piping and plumbing work, whilst holding down his jewellery day job. His entrepreneurship and smart, calculating brain saw that partnership become very successful.

In the late 1960’s Rolf left Frost & Guy to work for Clements & Holmes Ltd, a successful Wellington jewellery manufacturing/retail business established by George Clements and Ron Holmes. Rolf very quickly rose to become the foreman, his skill and acumen as a craftsman and a businessman being quickly recognised.

Rolf had a genuine affinity for

Brian Barrett.

the workers of the time. Bench workers post-war and through to the 1970’s were poorly paid and poorly recognised. Rolf understood this and also realised that not much could be done on an individual basis. He became a union advocate, reaching out to the head of the powerful Plumber’s Union, the late Frank Thorne. Together they formed a manufacturing jewellers union that was affiliated with the Plumbers Union, its members then entitled to plumbers’ wage rates. These were over 50% higher than jewellers’ rates, so soon every bench worker in the country joined the union and employers were forced to pay their staff proper wages.

He became the workers’ favourite, but not the employers!

Rolf was also instrumental in helping overhaul the apprenticeship system for manufacturing jewellers, working with the Polytechs to establish training protocols and helping to write the papers that became an integral part of the apprenticeship training programme.

The industry is the better for his efforts.

His clever mind would never rest. He never read fiction; technical books were his passion, acquiring knowledge being more important than fantasy to Rolf.

Over time he created an engineering workshop at his home that was the envy of many in that profession. He

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excavated under his house to create a space that held lathes, drill presses, milling machines, welding gear and every tool and piece of electronic measuring equipment that you can imagine. He taught himself to run all of this equipment, understanding the computer operating systems and becoming totally proficient in it all. He would make tools for jewellers - mandrels, hand tools, casting plates and jigs for melting precious metals. All were beautifully crafted and finished. Our own workshop in The Village Goldsmith is still using the plates he created for me more than 40 years ago.

In his later years Rolf developed macular degeneration which, sadly, limited his jewellery and engineering passions, but he worked for as long as he possibly could. He enjoyed the outdoors. A keen tramping club member, he would go for long walks with like-minded individuals, enjoying the intellectual sparring that came with those encounters. He certainly didn’t suffer fools gladly, but he had a great sense of humour and wasn’t afraid to criticise himself as much as anyone else.

Rolf wasn’t a large man, but his small stature belied a huge brain and a large passion for the jewellery trade and its crafts people. We all owe him a great debt of gratitude.

- Ian Douglas

PRE-FAIR

BOLLYWOOD

GET TOGETHER

Saturday, Sept 9, 6pm to 8pm Join us for a delicious curry and a glass of wine, beer or soda.

RNZYS Quarterdeck $30 per person, including entertainment.

Pre-paid tickets only (no door sales).

Contact info@jwnz.co.nz

Image by Freepik

JT2023 WINTER 37

JWNZ PRESIDENT’S REPORT Suddenly we are in winter, almost half way through the year and just four months out from the JWNZ Spring Trade Fair in Auckland. Where has the time gone? I hope you are keeping an eye out for good Grab-A-Seat deals and hotel/motel room rates as the fair is going to be bigger and better again this year. It’s a fabulous venue and I look forward to catching up with you at the Royal NZ Yacht Squadron on Sunday September 10th.

It is heart breaking to see the ram-raids continue up and down the country. Stupid, senseless, so destructive and a very genuine concern for all retailers. We would all like to stop these events occurring, but the more important question is how?

Until the laws are amended to allow much harsher penalties, I suspect these brazen acts of bravado by young thugs will continue unabated.

In the meantime, be vigilant, have good security plans in place and share any pertinent information with your fellow retailers (a phone group to all

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surrounding stores to update each other on suspicious characters is a great start.)

Next month I will be attending the mid-winter Jewellery Fair at the Convention Centre in Hong Kong, to catch up on the latest trends and do some pearl buying. It’s been four years since I have done a long-haul flight and although I’m all ‘boosted’, I must admit to a slight apprehension about 11 hours in close confines with strangers. But also excited to get back into the swing of things and see what’s happening out in the big wide world. These trips are always invigorating and re-charge the ‘enthusiasm batteries’. Not as busy as the September Fair, but more time to be selective, discover things that are not readily available in NZ and hopefully find a few bargains.

The Incorporated Societies Act 2022 requires the JWNZ to re-register. We are currently working on a new set of Rules which we hope to present to the membership at our Auckland AGM 9th September, at 2.00pm. Please mark this

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date in your diaries and do come along, it’s your chance to participate and contribute ideas.

Please feel free to contact me with any comments or concerns. Wishing you all good trading over the next few months.

- Susi Chinnery-Brown, JWNZ President 07 889 3545, 021 751 115 susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

R. H. DANIELS (BOB) 12/1/1926 - 18/1/2023

the Greenslade and Speights families in the late 1800s, taking the couple’s staff numbers from eight to 24. At this stage it was now a full working partnership of Bob and Pearl with son and watchmaker Brian and his wife Cheryl.

“It worked OK,” said Brian. “I would also mention that all my sisters at some time worked for Daniels Jewellers (ex Dawsons) at pearl threading, engraving or retail.

Bob retired in 1988 from Daniels Jewellers, moving to Hawea and creating a garden maintenance business. He also became gate keeper of the Hawea Dam. When the Electricity Authority required more water to generate power in Clyde and Roxburgh he raised the gate to release a controlled flow.

The couple returned to Dunedin after ten years away to live the good life, at a much slower pace.

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OBITUARY Originally a joiner, Bob Daniels started his watchmaking apprenticeship in 1942 at Websters, Dunedin and then went into his own business for seven years working as a trade watchmaker.

His first venture into jewellery retail was as store manager with Charles Gore. This lead on to a retail manager position for Peter Dick Ltd, with Bob, aged 42, going on to raise the money to buy that business.

Bob was on the Government Apprenticeship Committee for several years. He was President of the NZ Horological Institute of NZ and later President of the Jewellers Association of NZ. Joint editor of the NZHI Journal for several years, he was awarded the NZ Horological Fellowship Award for valuable services.

In the early 1990s Bob and his wife Pearl bought out neighbours, Dawsons Ltd, a company started by

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NEWS MICHAEL HILL BUYS BEVILLES

Jewellery company Michael Hill is set to grow its portfolio across the Tasman after agreeing to buy an Australian chain for $45.1 million.

The NZX-listed company has entered into a binding agreement, subject to certain conditions, to take over the family-owned jewellery and watch retailer Bevilles. Founded in 1934, Bevilles has 26 stores across three Australian states and caters to the lower end of the jewellery market.

Michael Hill said there was a “substantial” opportunity to roll-out stores in the short and medium term, with ambitions to have 80 to 100 Bevilles stores by 2028. It was also looking at expanding the Bevilles brand to Canada and New Zealand.

CELEBRATING THE SEASONS

From De Beers’ Metamorphosis High Jewellery collection.

Rather than focusing on a single season for each jewel; spring, summer, autumn and winter converge in each of the unique pieces in white, yellow and rose gold, which are collectively titled Prelude.

THEMED CONNECTION

The first Jose Hess Design Awards, presented by the American Jewelry Design Council, were held during the Tucson Gem Show. The awards were created in honour of AJDC founding member, the late Jose Hess.

The challenge was to create an original piece of jewellery based on ‘Connection’, which was AJDC’s Design Theme Project of the year in 2022. The grand prize of US$15,000 was awarded to American designer Baiyang Qiu for her ‘Childhood Dream VI’ dandelion brooch. The piece is made of 18ct yellow gold and platinum, set with round brilliant and rose-cut diamonds.

“Inspired by nature and its beautiful forms, I use extremely fine gauge wire of high carat gold and platinum to bring my designs to life,” said Baiyang Qui. JT2023 WINTER 39

Phone 03 389 9878 Email sales@finneys.co.nz www.finneys.co.nz

WATCHMAKERS’ INSTITUTE OF NZ As a clock repairer and retailer, I have seen a notable decline in the popularity of grandfather clocks in recent years.

While these elegant timepieces were once a staple in many homes, they have become increasingly rare as more modern and convenient timekeeping devices have taken their place.

There are a number of factors that have contributed to the decline in popularity of grandfather clocks. One of the most significant is the rise of digital clocks and other electronic timekeeping devices. These devices are often cheaper, more accurate and require less maintenance than traditional clocks, making them a more attractive option for many consumers.

Additionally, changes in home design and decor trends have made grandfather clocks a less desirable option for many homeowners. These clocks are often large and ornate and they require a significant amount of space to display properly. As modern homes have become more compact and minimalist in design, there is simply less space available for these grand timepieces.

Finally, there is the issue of maintenance. While grandfather clocks are certainly beautiful and impressive, they require a great deal of upkeep

and repair to keep them running smoothly. They need to be wound regularly and even minor issues can be costly to repair. As a result, many consumers simply do not want to invest the time and money required to keep a grandfather clock in good working order.

So, what does this mean for clock repairers? For starters, it means that we are seeing fewer and fewer of these beautiful clocks coming in for repair.

While there are still many collectors and enthusiasts who cherish their grandfather clocks, the demand for new and second hand clocks and their associated repair services is not what it once was.

However, I believe that there is still hope for the future of grandfather clocks. These timepieces are truly works of art and they represent a unique and valuable part of our cultural heritage.

As such, there will always be a market for these clocks among collectors and enthusiasts.

Additionally, there is a growing interest in traditional craftsmanship and artisanal goods, which could bode well for the future of grandfather clocks. As consumers become more interested in unique items, there may be a renewed appreciation for the artistry and skill

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Nick Parker.

required to create and maintain these magnificent timepieces.

In the end, only time will tell whether or not grandfather clocks will make a comeback. But as a clock repairer, I will continue to do my part to preserve and maintain these beautiful timepieces for generations to come.

– Nick Parker, nick@pilbrowswatchmaker.co.nz, Ph 03 351 1320.

RETAILERS REVIEW BY SUSI CHINNERY-BROWN Janinne Pearce, Rotorua Jewellers, started her apprenticeship at Gralie Gold & Silversmithing in Rotorua in 1979. She moved on to Guilders Jewellers and then freelanced at home at her workshop on the farm while she raised her children. Janinne did a lot of contract work for insurance companies during this time. Next stop was Te Puke Jewellers in 2000 and in 2008 she purchased the business with husband Rod Pearce. In 2017 they started up Rotorua Jewellers in Tutanekai Street.

Both stores specialise in designing and manufacturing oneoff pieces, repairs and re-modelling, engraving, watches, watch repairs and greenstone. Janinne and Rod have six grandchildren and a 7th on the way. In their ‘spare time’‘ they both enjoy hunting and fishing and I’ve seen many photos of great fish hauls Janinne Pearce and some pretty impressive deer!

On a more sombre note, Jannine and Rod have endured seven traumatic events in the past 12 months: shop lifts, robberies and ram-raids, but they are still going strong and managing to smile. We all salute you and wish you both a peaceful year ahead.

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JEWELLERY INDUSTRY REGISTRATION BOARD Sixteen apprentices were taken on last year and it appears to be continuing for 2023. Sixteen new apprentices means checking that are getting on with it and what being an ‘actual apprentice’ means, which has been discussed many times with NZQA and MOE. That is, that the apprentice is turning up for work on time every day, including when they find it hard to get there, or even find it hard to get out of bed. Being on the tools ready to go at start time, having a break at Smoko, then back on with it until lunch. Same thing after lunch with a big effort needed until afternoon Smoko, followed by the final leg until home time. During this work time there will be all sorts to deal with from workshop personalities, customers and tricky jobs, to just getting the job out on time.

On top of this, the new apprentice must then get their head around that they, in the case of manufacturing jeweller apprentices, have three Stages of Distance Learning Assessment to get through, 40 in total. That’s basically one a month for the four years of their apprenticeship. Then there is mastering all the skill tasks that must be signed off as mastered in their Apprentice Record Training Book, submitting and passing the Practical Test or Training Days. All of this is then bookended by a Trade Certificate examination.

Yes, it’s a lot to get done and a lot to handle and this is why when someone does come out of their time and is awarded their Trade Certificate as a Trade Qualified Tradesperson, we all respect that it’s not easy. There is so much more to doing (or surviving) an apprenticeship than just being shown how to make or repair something.

Helping save the future of New Zealand’s trade, JIRBNZ registered apprentice Natasha Aitchison-Burgess, with tradesperson Vivienne Burns and employer Patricia Sherry-Mantovan, of Fishers Jewellers, Whangārei. Guest appearance, Onyx.

Often learning the skills is the easy bit.

Moving forward to those apprentices who are well ahead, I also give notice of the JIRBNZ Trade Certificates Examination - Manufacturing Jewellery – Sunday the 10th of September 2023.

Venue: RNZYS, 181 Westhaven Drive, Auckland (JWNZ Trade Fair Time).

If any further person wishes to enrol for this Trade Certificate examination, please contact JIRBNZ directly.

IDF- Skyhall Brussels 4-7 April 2024 www.internationaldiamondfair.be It is the purpose of JIRBNZ to advance the development of training in an effort to continue to maintain and produce the highly skilled workforce in our Industry in New Zealand. To this, JIRBNZ has been in discussion with HRD Antwerp and this connection has developed into JIRBNZ being the contact for the 1st International Diamond Fair (IDF) to be held in Brussels, Belgium.

This looks to be a great event and anyone who wishes to take part as either an exhibitor or a visitor should contact JIRBNZ as an ambassador

directly, for more details for this event.

Of particular interest is the Diamond Jewellery Design awards. https://www. internationaldiamondfair.be/idf-designawards/ The International Diamond Jewellery Design Awards and Gala night will be one of the highlights of the show. Along with the prestige of being accepted into the final of such awards, I am privy to who is one of the judges and can only say that they are truly big brand international and at the top of their game.

– Grant Harrison Industry appointed Commissioner of Apprentices Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand M: 0276930001, E: info@jirbnz.org.nz W: www.jirbnz.org.nz

Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand

Puri Panekiretanga – Keeping Standards High

Sponsors 2023

2023 JT2023 WINTER 41

The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Inc. M E MBE R BE NE F ITS: Jewellery Time magazine - The focal point of JWNZ member and industry communication.

JWNZ Inc. Trade Fair - An annual event held on behalf of our members, for our members and industry.

Internet - www.jwnz.co.nz - The official JWNZ website with a free listing for financial members.

2023

Press Releases - Jewellery and watch specific editorial promotion of product and JWNZ members.

Consumer Information - Online brochures, water resistancy guide and refund policy.

BUSINESS SERVICES: ANZ Bank - Business and Personal banking.

ANZ Merchant Business Solutions - Merchant facilities for EFTPOS, Credit & Debit Card sales.

Crombie Lockwood Insurance Brokers - Business, Personal and Travel insurances.

Business & Personal Banking

Merchant Facilities

CourierPost - Special Trackpak rates, $2000 insurance cover on each parcel sent.

EFTPOS NZ Ltd - EFTPOS Terminals and Payment Solutions.

Gilrose Finance - Consumer Finance for Hire Purchase sales.

Grow Online Ltd - Creating Results Driven Websites, SEO (Search Engine Optimisation), SEM (Search Engine Marketing), Ecommerce Websites, B2B, Custom Solutions.

Office Products Depot - Stationery, Office furniture, Computer accessories and consumerables.

Vodafone - Telecommunication services - Fixed line & Broadband Vodafone - DigitalMobile - Vodafone Product Suppliers

INDUSTRY REPRESENTATION: Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand - Representation on the Jewellery & Watch Industry organisation responsible for Apprenticeship Training.

Telecommunication Services

TRADE & COMMERCE: Government Liaison (When required) - Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Commerce Commission, New Zealand Customs, Disputes Tribunal, New Zealand Trade & Enterprise, Immigration New Zealand, Statistics New Zealand, Ministry of Economic Development.

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JWNZ EXECUTIVE NOTES 2023-2024 ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTIONS

Thank you to those members who have paid their annual subscription.

Membership subscriptions allow the JWNZ to maintain our existing benefits and initiatives. Your continuing support of the JWNZ, NZ’s largest industry specific jewellery and watch organisation, is greatly appreciated.

The 2023-2024 Financial Member Certificates and Membership Booklet will be posted in late June to financial members. If your contact details, email, or website addresses have changed please advise Craig Anderson, JWNZ Executive Secretary, so we can maintain our databases and mailing lists.

JWNZ SPRING TRADE FAIR 2023

The success of our 2022 Spring Trade Fair has the JWNZ reserve the same venue for our 2023 Spring Trade Fair.

The fair will be held on Sunday 10 September at the Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron, 181 Westhaven Drive, Westhaven Marina, Auckland.

Increased exhibitor interest has resulted in securing additional exhibitor space, so even more exhibitors can showcase their goods and services and we are looking forward to another successful event.

We will be having an early evening Saturday get together with a Bollywood theme at the Squadron. Details Page 37.

The JWNZ greatly appreciates the ongoing support of our sponsors and exhibitors. We, along with our exhibitors look forward to seeing you there. There are several hotels close to the venue and parking is available, a short walk from the venue.

Thanks to our 2023 Trade Fair sponsors; Star Gems & Jewellery, Landau Jewellery (Christchurch), Pacific Time Industries, Morris and Watson and PEKA. Industry members are invited to register online to visit the JWNZ Spring Trade Fair 2023 at www.jewelleryfair. co.nz

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2023 JWNZ MEETINGS

The JWNZ Annual General Meeting will be held at 2.00pm on Saturday 9 September in the Quarterdeck at the Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron, 181 Westhaven Drive, Westhaven Marina, Auckland. The JWNZ National Council will meet on the Saturday morning.

JT 2023 - JEWELLERY TIME MAGAZINE

The upcoming issues of JT 2023, Jewellery Time magazine, will be available as an e-magazine one month after the publishing and posting of the printed version. JT 2023 is the focal point for JWNZ member communication. Keep yourself informed as the magazine contains information such as events, JWNZ reports and editorial, business, news and industry updates.

NZ POST

The National Office is aware of the issues that are currently being experienced with NZ Post courier deliveries, misdirected and/or missing parcels. Contact has been made with NZ Post to ensure our financial members are aligned with the latest NZ Post/JWNZ Member list. If you are having delivery issues with NZ Post, please contact Craig Anderson to discuss.

SECURITY - FOG CANNON

Fog Cannon subsidies are now available. The following link provides the detail. https://www.mbie.govt.nz/about/ news/fog-cannon-subsidy-applicationsopen Or contact - Gavin O’Hara, Tailor Made Solutions Ltd. who will advise you of the process.

T 027 374 1723 or E gavin@ tailormadesol.com

JEWELLERY STORE RAM RAIDS & ROBBERIES The JWNZ is extremely disappointed that, to date, approaches to the Minister of Police and Minister of

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Justice have received no response.

There are numerous JWNZ Members who have had their businesses affected by ram raids and daytime robberies.

This has impacted on their ability to carry out their normal business, as well as their staff members, some of whom are suffering from the trauma of these events.

What is apparent is that offenders and recidivist offenders understand there are no consequences to their actions, as their age prevents prosecution and they are almost always referred to Youth Aid. So, what do Youth Aid do? Youth Aid deals with children and young people under the age of 18 who have offended, are on the verge of offending, are subject to Care and Protection measures or just need help to go in the right direction.

What happens in Youth Court NZ? The young person, their family, the victim, a youth justice coordinator, member(s) of the police and any other relevant professional meet to discuss: the offending, the effect this has had on all involved and a possible plan to address it.

What do NZ police do? New Zealand Police is an important part of the community. It seeks to prevent crime and crashes, improve public safety, detect and bring offenders to account and maintain law and order.

You can make your own minds up about how effective the NZ Police and youth aid work is carried out, but be assured the JWNZ will continue to request dialogue with both the Minister of Police and Minister of Justice in regards criminal actions affecting our members.

JWNZ INC. NATIONAL OFFICE Craig Anderson JWNZ Executive Secretary PO Box 16007, Hornby, Christchurch 8441 T 021 596 988 E info@jwnz.co.nz

JT2023 WINTER 43

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES A MATTER OF TIME GW0546L2 GUESS SERENA GLD TONE This glam gold-tone, adjustable G link bracelet is embellished with crystals on a feminine chain link bracelet, ensuring you will sparkle wherever you go. The 32mm polished case with sunray dial adds a refined twist, making this the perfect wrist accessory. RRP $479.95.

TW2V70600 TIMEX MIDTOWN CHRONO Chic refinement meets city-slicking edge when it comes to our Midtown collection. A silver, concave dial with a brushed finish adds a layer of depth to this tasteful timepiece, while a brown, natural leather strap with quick-release spring bars; silver-tone, stainless-steel case and simple, elevated markers offer a touch of delicacy to the design. A chronograph dial layout with a date movement displayed at the 4 o’clock position ensures that you’ll keep time in style. RRP $349.95.

BKPPHS304 Phylipa Bow Recycled SST Rose Gold Phylipa Bow, the new refined accessory for glamorous style! The iconic Bow element highlights the black dial of this timeless 37mm rose gold tone case, perfectly completed with a feminine rose gold mesh band. Now available with new packaging made from 100% sustainable sources. RRP $280.

WW00039002L3 FURLA TORTONA Rose Gold Furla Tortana by Furla, is a statement ladies’ piece. This 30mm timepiece features a repeating logo motif on the rose gold tone case and logo detailing on the rose gold tone bracelet, making it undeniably Furla and the perfect finishing touch. RRP $429.

OGGSG-O71 ROSEFIELD OCTAGON XS WATCH GOLD BRACELET GREEN DIAL The Octagon XS, the newest collection of compact modern watches from Rosefield is already a classic. The eye-catching mother-of-pearl green dial, polished 5-link gold band and unusual octagonal face shape have revolutionised the watch as a fashion accessory. RRP NZ $229.95.

X2314L1MAXUM MINI BLOCK WHITE Maxum’s newest design, the Mini block is a petite, but tough timepiece. With a built-in stop watch, alarm, backlight, 100m water resistancy and two year replacement warranty, it's classic white and rose gold features makes it the latest must have digital watch. RRP NZ$79.00.

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaaccessories,com.au, www.designaaaccessories.com.au

EYE CATCHERS Our classic popular pearl strand is crafted from 4mm freshwater pearls which have been threaded onto double knotted cotton. A timeless, elegant piece designed with durability and preciseness. Two lengths available.

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Heart padlock and key necklace: Sharing in all stories of love and romance, this special necklace is a petite and short style. Made from sterling silver, it looks fabulous on its own or in a layered look.

Contact: FV Jewellery, Ph 0274 203 137, helen@fabuleuxvous.com, www.fabuleuxvous.com

A NATURAL SELECTION

Your everyday hoops, with a pearly plus one. The Edie Earrings in 18ct yellow gold or sterling silver are a staple you'll wear all year round. With a diminutive hook shape these stud earrings feature a freshwater cultured pearl. Wear these alone for a chic look, or stack with studs for a curated finish. Product code: IP437-EYGP (available in sterling silver).

Contact: Ikecho Australia, Ph 61 2 9266 0636, cindy@ikecho.co.au, www.ikecho.com.au

TRULY CLASSY

New sophisticated black zirconium rings with Greekinspired patterns engraved into the black, revealing the natural grey zirconium colour.

Contact: Worth & Douglas Ltd, Ph 64 9 303 4666, sales@worthdouglas.co.nz, www.worthdouglas.com

LUXURY LETTERS

DESIGNED TO DELIGHT

Georgini has teamed up with Miss Universe Alum Jasmine Stringer to release its new collection ‘Luxury Letters’. Jasmine was crowned Miss Teen Universe in 2013 and Runner Up Miss Universe Australia 2018.

"Jasmine is an inspirational, down-toearth Aussie Girl, as well as a fantastic role model, and we are thrilled to have her as the face of this new collection," said Melinda Carey Creative Director of Georgini.

Each letter is crafted from rhodiumplated 925 sterling silver or 18ct gold-plated sterling silver, adorned with cubic zirconia.

Zara CZ huggie earrings and Zara Double Row CZ huggie earrings. Elegant huggies set with single or double row CZ's. Available in 9ct yellow gold and 9ct white gold.

Sage diamond-set initial letter pendants. Diamond-set modern cursive large initial letter pendant. Approx 2.5cm-3cm including the bale. Available A-Z in 9ct yellow gold and 9ct white gold.

Flex created emerald cuff bangle. New elegant ladies’ cuff bangle, set with 5mm round created emerald and crafted in 9ct yellow gold. Adjustable and flexible for a comfortable fit on any size wrist.

Charlie Bluebird cuff bangle and Charlie Red Heart cuff bangle.

Easy-to-adjust new sterling silver children’s cuff bangles with a bluebird or a red enamel heart (45mm). Makes a memorable gift for special occasions.

Contact: Paterson Fine Jewellery, +61 (03) 9555 9344, www.pfj.com.au

Contact: Rachel McLeod, 021 124 0696, rachael@westendcollection.com.au, www.georgini.com.au JT2023 WINTER 45

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES WORKS FOR EVERYONE

The new Boccia Titanium range is out and Pacific Time is excited to introduce the models to its current range. From Boccia classics, round white face with numbers, models 3254-04 & 3620-08 or a twist on the classics, models 3350-02 & 3741-02, to more vibrant options models 3351-03 & 3351-06, there’s something here for everyone, whatever the occasion.

View the full Boccia Titanium collection at https://www.pacifictime.co.nz/boccia-watches-collection

3254-04

3351-03

3350-02

3620-03

3351-06

3741-02

The Rochet jewellery range is a classy collection of on-trend looks predominantly for men, but we think women can work this look too. These are just an example of the extensive range on offer.

View the full range at https://www.pacifictime.co.nz/rochet-jewellery

Model HB751: 12mm vintage steel and black leather bracelet. One size.Pacific Time NP

Model HB753: 12mm bracelet vintage steel and brown braided leather. Adjustable.

Contact: Pacific Time, Ph 03 356 3587, sales@pacifictime.co.nz, www.pacifictime.co.nz

DIRECTORY

• Quality Akoya & Freshwater Pearls • Unique semi-precious necklaces • ESSE Marcarsite Sterling Silver jewellery PO Box 62, Morrinsville 3340, New Zealand I E: susi@twentyfive7.co.nz P: +64 7 889 3545 I M: + 64 21 751 115

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DIRECTORY

WE ARE LOOKING FOR A MATURE EXPERIENCED WATCHMAKER. ABOUT TIME IS BASED IN REMUERA, AUCKLAND AND WE ARE NEW ZEALAND’S FOREMOST DEALERS IN HIGH END SECONDHAND PREMIUM BRAND WRISTWATCHES. YOU WILL BE WORKING ON ROLEX AND OTHER QUALITY BRANDS. MUST BE ABLE TO WORK UNSUPERVISED. EXCELLENT REMUNERATION AND BENEFITS, FLEXIBLE WORKING HOURS. AGE NOT IMPORTANT. IF YOU ARE LOOKING FOR A CHANGE AND WOULD LIKE TO WORK WITH A PROGRESSIVE COMPANY, MADE UP OF THE MOST EXPERIENCED WATCH PEOPLE IN NEW ZEALAND.

PLEASE CONTACT REBECCA ON 09 2814138 OR EMAIL YOUR CV TO NEIL (NEIL@ABOUTTIME.CO.NZ)

Importers and wholesalers of premium Gold, Platinum and Sterling Silver findings for manufacturing and retail jewellers.

• NEW E-COMMERCE WEBSITE WITH PRICING FOR EASY ONLINE ORDERING • QUICK DISPATCH OF ORDERS • PERSONAL CUSTOMER SUPPORT Contact Julie on 09-478 9950 or info@nzfindings.co.nz www.nzfindings.co.nz

Our Clocks range from traditional to contemporary, Collectables to Grandfathers.

Pronto Clock Company Ltd Ph 07 880 9795 info@prontoclocks.co.nz

C o l l e ct ab l e s Lucida Calligraphy font, bold, italics

JT2023 WINTER 47

DIRECTORY

ARGOSY GEMS for Design Work & Trade repairs.

Sourcing of Gems from the cutters.

Hand Engraving, Setting, Sizing, trade repairs.

Prompt Turn around of your Jobs.

Richard 021670145, Argosy 03 3669332 141 Holly Rd, Christchurch 8014 argosy.jewellery@gmail.com argosyjewellery.co.nz

Carl Yung Gems Ltd Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds, Diamonds & Semi-Precious Stones & Jewellery Fast & Reliable Cutting Services Available.

P O Box 109380, Newmarket, Auckland.

Ph: 09-623 2078 Email: info@carlyung.com

Ultrasonic Cleaners Made in Germany

Elmasonic “SELECT” series

All rethreading including lengthening & shortening Extensive range of clasps Pearl drilling 19 Tapestry Grove, Silverstream, Upper Hutt 5019 p 04 528 9699 e info@aven.co.nz www.aven.co.nz

www.elma-ultrasonic.co.nz TECHSPAN NEW ZEALAND LTD

0800 603 603 info@elma-ultrasonic.co.nz

1st Floor Gibson Sheat Centre 1 Margaret Street, Lower Hutt New Zealand’s leading Safe & Vault specialists.

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Bullion Safes Jewellery Safes Cash Safes Modular Vaults & Vault doors

www.safeman.co.nz 48 JT2023 WINTER

Ph: 0800 723 365

0800 743 774 sales@rings.co.nz www.rings.co.nz

+61 2 8054 0606

+61 3 7020 7478

Suite 414, Level 4 160 Castlereagh Street Sydney, NSW 2000

Suite 02, Level 10, 410 Collins Street, Melbourne, 3000, Australia

Quasar Diamond is New Zealand’s foremost diamond authority. Each Quasar diamond is carefully selected by qualified diamond experts for complete peace of mind. Purchasing a Quasar Certified diamond is your ethical guarantee of both sustainability and exceptional quality.

Sustainable

4Cs

Natural Diamonds

High Grade Cuts

GIA Report

sales@nzgem.co.nz, 0800 NZ GEM (0800 69 43 67), P +64 9 377 3855, @quasardiamondsnz, quasardiamonds.com