2024
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Jewellers & Watchmakers
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Executive Secretary: Craig Anderson, Phone +64 (0)21 596 988 info@jwnz.co.nz, www.jwnz.co.nz
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Jewellery Time is the official magazine of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.
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Our fabulous ESSE parrot pendant (72-800) and matching earrings (43-293) will add a touch of drama or whimsy to any outfit. Beautifully crafted in sterling silver and bead set with top grade Swarovski marcasites, the red and green parrots perch under a ruby and marcasite leaves. Perfect Christmas gifts for someone who likes ‘something different’.
Contact: AM IMPORTS Pty Ltd, NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown, 021 751 115, susi@twentyfive7.co.nz
Light, Strong, Elegant.
Boccia Titanium watches are made from the highest quality materials. Nickel and allergy free, titanium is not only light, but nice to your skin, perfect for everyday wear. Whatever the occasion, there’s a Boccia watch to suit. pacifictime.co.nz
Introducing Laura Moore, Managing Director of the Australia’s Jewellery Industry Network…
Where do you live and who do you share your home with?
I live in South Australia in the hills with my husband, six-year-old son and two gorgeous step kids. A full house! Complete with pet parrot Ruby and the occasional koala in the backyard.
How did you become involved with the jewellery industry?
I started in the industry in 2006, after finishing University and started with Peter W Beck in the marketing department. I worked for Peter for 10 years and in that time was lucky enough to be taken under his wing and learn all about manufacturing, hand skills, the running of a multifaceted industry supplier and just so much more. I completely fell in love with the industry. I also assisted setting up an educational facility in South Australia for hand skills and volunteered for the JAA for many years, giving me a great understanding of the industry on a national level.
What are your responsibilities as Managing Director of the Jewellery Industry Network (JIN)... My role consists of ensuring that all areas of the business work together as seamlessly as possible and ensure that our wonderful clients and members are taken care of. A large part of my role is looking for industry experts who can bring value to the Australian industry and assist businesses here to thrive.
Why was JIN formed?
I had been envisioning JIN for quite a while, where a support structure would be in place for the whole industry to gain benefits from. I saw a gap in support for the industry in general, where all businesses and individuals were offered support regardless of their set up, size or type. JIN was launched in 2021 to connect all types of businesses in the industry and enable growth through a strong eco system.
What do you offer your members?
The eco system that we offer consists of different elements that we hope everyone in the industry can find
some benefit from. We have digital educational material, expert video content, physical events for doing business, networking events for connection, conferences, a physical coworking space, a podcast and more. We operate for the industry all year round and are available daily to support the industry.
After a successful August Jewellery Industry Fair, organised by JIN, what can potential exhibitors and visitors look forward to next year?
We have hosted five fairs now for the industry, with our next being back in Melbourne at our new venue, the Royal Exhibition Building in Carlton. Our fairs are always about bringing a supportive and innovative aspect to the industry. This year and starting with Melbourne, we will continue to push the boundaries and bring new elements to engage the trade.
Tell us about ‘The Centre’, Sydney… The Centre, part of JIN, offers businesses in the industry a space to operate in Sydney, or have a virtual office in Sydney, with jewellery benches, consultation areas and hot desks. We have secure storage, office supplies, a photo light box, catering options and free parking. The space offers suppliers and jewellery businesses the ability to host events, conduct trainings, meet with clients and operate without the overheads of their own lease or set up costs.
It's also a space we hope will feel welcoming to all industry members, including students to come in, have a coffee and enjoy reading a jewellery book, exploring elements of the industry, or having a chat about how they can get more involved in the industry.
Best business advice you have ever received?
Stay true to yourself and don’t let outside noise distract you from believing in yourself and achieving your goals. Another motto I live by is to treat
others the way I’d like to be treated.
In another life is there another career, away from the jewellery & watch industry, you would have liked to have pursued?
I had a short stint working at a brewery, which was great fun, but still always found my heart was in jewellery. Perhaps in another life, I would love to be a tour guide, showing people through amazing locations.
Why do you think we love jewellery? Jewellery is an extension and expression of your personality, your relationships, your memories and your style. It’s such a beautiful way to adorn yourself, to celebrate your culture and to be appreciative of human craftsmanship and artistic ability. I always feel so lucky to surrounded by such incredible talent.
How do you relax in your spare time? With only a small amount of precious spare time available at the moment, I treasure time with my son and family. We draw, play games and cook.
What is the most adventurous thing you have ever done, that has taken you out of your comfort zone... Start a business!
How will you spend Christmas Day? We always spend Christmas with family, fresh seafood, cold champagne and games outside in the sun with the kids.
If there was one luxury item you would like to buy for yourself today, what would that be?
A housekeeper! And a large, delicious, elegant, right hand cocktail ring.
Laura Moore
Long live the spirit within.
Introducing our new Inner Spirit collection.
This range honours the deep connection between heritage and personal identity. Each ring is a tribute to the wisdom and cultural roots that shape us, blending traditional influences with modern elegance to embody the beauty of inner strength and celebrate the spirit within us all.
JEWELLERY INDUSTRY REPRESENTED IN NZ CRIME ADVISORY GROUP
Michael Hill has secured a spot on an advisory board to reduce crime targeting retailers. The NZ Ministerial Advisory Group (MAG) on retail crime has named its members, which will help develop policies aimed at empowering the retail sector to combat retail crimes.
The MAG has named Sunny Kaushal, former Dairy and Business Owners Group chairperson and Crime Prevention Group president, as chair. He will be joined by Michael Hill’s
A FAMILY LEGACY
Luxury manufacturer and retailer Partridge Jewellers has received the New Zealand Family Business Association (NZ) 2024/2025 Legacy Award.
James Partridge opened the first ‘Partridge’ store in England in 1864. Less than a decade on he relocated his family and his business to Timaru, later moving to open in Manchester Street, Christchurch. The company currently has outlets in Auckland, Wellington, Christchurch and Queenstown and can boast of involving six generations. Managing director Grant Partridge’s three sons also work in the business.
The Family Business Excellence Awards are presented to an outstanding family business demonstrating excellence and achievement in the core business principles of governance,
national retail manager Michael Bell; Waikato community advocate and business leader Ash Parmar; Foodstuffs’ North Island retail and property GM Lindsay Rowles; and Retail NZ CEO Carolyn Young.
The MAG’s first priorities are to reinforce security guards to deal with retail offenders, enable the use of facial recognition technology and allow retail business owners to deal with shoplifters.
entrepreneurship and stewardship and exhibiting how family ownership and involvement has helped the business to achieve a competitive advantage.
“We are extremely proud of our legacy and this award comes at a particularly special time as we celebrate our 160th anniversary this November,” said Grant Partridge. “We would like to thank the Family Business Association for this award and take a moment to recognise the Partridge team for the role each individual plays in making the company what it is. We are fortunate to work with so many people who share the same passion for the company as we do, including our clients.
“The award was accepted by new Partridge CEO, Nicola Owbridge, on behalf of the Partridge family at the Family Business Insights NZ
“New Zealand has seen an exponential growth in retail crime over the past five years, with an 86% increase in retail crime of all types and, very concerningly, a 72% increase in sexual assault-related offences at retail locations,” said Paul Goldsmith, Justice Minister. “We are committed to ensuring there are 20,000 fewer victims of violent crime by 2029 and reducing serious repeat youth offending by 15%.”
Conference and coincides with our recent admission into the Responsible Jewellery Council, a globally-recognised body responsible for upholding ethics and responsibility within the industry.
“We look forward to many more years of business in New Zealand.”
Grant Partridge with sons Sam, Cory and Jack.
Important Jewels, Watches & Luxury Accessories Bidding Open
We invite you to view the catalogue for our latest Important Jewels, Watches, & Luxury Accessories auction. For the first time this will be an online-only auction, meaning you can browse these exquisite piece at your leisure and bid from wherever you are.
Being a top-tier sale there are many rare and show-stopping pieces on offer. Highlights in luggage and bags including a vintage 1930s Louis Vuitton Monogram Steamer Trunk, as well as and a gorgeous hot pink Hermès Ostrich Kelly complete with Twilly and Charm. In jewels you will find exceptional diamonds in rings, bracelets and tennis necklet styles, as well as a number of colourful cocktail rings plus core classics from Tiffany & Co, Bulgari, Chopard, Gucci and Pasquale Bruni.
Finally, in watches we are pleased to present an 18ct Yellow Gold, Patek Philippe 5130J-001 Complications World Time Wristwatch, as well as desirable examples from Rolex including the Daytona, Datejust, Day-Date, Explorer II and Sky Dweller, to name a few.
Christine Power AJP (GIA)
Head of Fine Jewels, Watches & Luxury Accessories
christinep@webbs.co.nz
+64 27 929 5607
auckland launch event Tuesday 5 November 6pm — 8pm
auckland viewing times
Wednesday 6 November 10am — 5pm
Thursday 7 November 10am — 5pm Friday 8 November 10am — 5pm
Saturday 9 November 10am — 4pm
Sunday 10 November 10am — 4pm
Monday 11 November 10am — 4pm
bidding closes online Monday 11 November 8pm
location 33a Normanby Road
Mount Eden
Auckland 1024
+64 9 529 5600
USA JEWELLERS HIT BY RAIDS
Jewellers across America are being hit by a string of sophisticated Ocean’s Eleven-style (2001movie) break-ins, and they’re suffering big losses as a result, according to the Jewelers’ Security Alliance (JSA).
“We see burglaries everywhere, from New York to Texas,” says Scott Guginsky, the JSA’s vice president. “Some of the hits are in the millions. These are the largest dollar losses we’ve seen in some time.
“Most of the thefts follow similar patterns. They generally occur on weekends. The gang members are gaining access through rooftops and
A SUCCESSFUL 70TH
The Italian Exhibition Group declared September’s Vicenzaoro gold, jewellery and watchmaking exhibition as a huge success with record attendance. Now established as a show with global reach, it attracted visitors from 132 countries with 1,200 exhibiting companies, 40% who came from abroad. IEG says that the exhibition is now bigger than before the pandemic decimated the events industry.
“After a steady progression of attendances, we have now reached the new normal,” said Corrado Peraboni, CEO of Italian Exhibition Group. “We could not have wished for a better way to close the 70th anniversary of gold and jewellery shows in Vicenza.”
Vicenzaoro returns from January 17 to 21 2025.
shared walls of neighbouring stores, sometimes dressed as construction workers to avoid suspicion. They often come equipped with cell phone and Wi-Fi blockers. They usually cut the store’s power cables and will sometimes wait for hours until the alarm’s backup battery runs out. On occasion, they’ll mount hunting cameras on the store, which act as motion sensors, to see if anyone’s coming.
“The gangs are generally well prepared before they strike, gathering extensive intelligence about their targets. They usually roll into town for a week and do surveillance,” Guginsky
says. “They scout out the store, follow the jeweller home. They often send someone in the store during business hours, with a camera on their hat and their shirt, so they have a sense of the layout.
“Even though they have similar M.O.’s, multiple crews are committing these thefts. They’re all from South America and they are somewhat in communication,” he says. “But it’s a loose-knit group. It’s not like there’s a (mob boss) John Gotti coordinating everything.”
A COLLECTOR’S ITEM
Perth company, Linneys, has released its latest masterpiece, The Argyle Pink™ Quokka. The piece is a limited-edition creation, with only three available worldwide.
The Argyle Pink™ Quokka is a celebration of two of Western Australia’s most treasured icons: rare Argyle Pink Diamonds™ from the now-closed Argyle Diamond Mine and the beloved quokka, known as the world’s happiest animal, native to the shores of Rottnest Island.
Priced at more than AUD$500,000 each, the pieces are a fusion of 3.39cts of Argyle Pink Diamonds™ set together with 10.96cts of white and Argyle champagne diamonds and approximately 280 grams of 18ct yellow and rose gold. Nestled in the quokka’s paws is an 18ct rose gold leaf, encrusted with 2.99cts of Argyle Pink Diamonds™. The leaf detaches to form a stunning necklace, suspended by an 18ct rose gold chain embellished with 0.62cts of bezel-set white diamonds. A further 0.40cts of beautifully pavé-set Argyle Pink Diamonds™ adorn the quokka’s ears.
A PEARL WITH PROVENANCE
The largest Scottish river pearl found in modern history, the Abernethy Pearl, led the sale at a Lyon & Turnbull auction when it achieved £93,951, a new world record price for a Scottish freshwater pearl. The pearl was discovered in the River Tay in 1967 by William (Bill) Abernethy, who was credited
REMEMBER THE SWEATER?
Diana Frances Spencer, also known as Diana, Princess of Wales, regularly turned everyday clothing into iconic fashion and her famous Warm & Wonderful red, white and black sheep sweater is about to make its mark on accessories. The London-based apparel company is celebrating its 45th anniversary with a limitededition wristwatch that pays tribute to Diana’s well-known jumper. Only 45 39mm wristwatches will be made, in the collaboration between ‘Warm & Wonderful’ and artisanal watchmaker Maurice de Mauriac.
as Scotland’s last dedicated pearl fisherman as a pearl fishing ban was introduced in Scotland in 1998.
It is believed the Abernethy Pearl, affectionately known as ‘Little Willie’, could have been growing in its mussel for more than 80 years before Abernethy found it, meaning it was created during the reign of Queen Victoria. Weighing a little under 11 carats, the Abernethy Pearl is smaller than the Kellie Pearl, which was discovered in the 1540’s and is set in the Scottish Crown.
It is thought that only one in every 5,000 mussels found in Scottish rivers contains a pearl, and generally they are smaller than their saltwater counterparts. Abernethy, who died in 2021 at age 96, never disclosed the exact location of the rare find.
Diana was among the company’s first customers. Her “people’s Princess” image in that sheep sweater, which she first wore in 1981 and again in 1983 head-lined many fashion pages.
In 2023 Diana’s original sweater, with a red background with dozens of creamy white sheep and one rebel black sheep among the group, sold in a Sotheby’s auction for more than US$1.1 million, a sum that made the jumper the world’s most valuable sweater. The watch will sell for US$1,950.
THE JUICE IS LOOSE
Fabergé opened the lid on a ‘Beetlejuice Beetlejuice’ branded collaboration, in time for the muchanticipated Warner Bros film’s release.
The new collection pays homage to Tim Burton’s 1988 original film and comprises 18ct white gold earrings, lapel pins, pendants, collar bars and rings, inspired by the shape of a spiral, a recurring motif from Burton’s filmography.
Each piece features an ethicallymined Gemfields emerald or ruby, cut to be round, oval or pear-shaped.
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GOING ONCE!
One of the TAG Heuer Monacos worn by actor Steve McQueen (19301980) during the filming of Le Mans is to be auctioned for the first time. The watch will come to Sotheby’s in December, a highlight of ‘Heuer
PERFECTLY USELESS
The London-based company Mr Jones Watches was launched in 2007 by designer Crispin Jones. One of Mr Jones’s most popular pieces is called ‘A Perfectly Useless Afternoon’, produced in collaboration with Belgium illustrator and author Kristof Devos. It shows a bather floating around a pool on a rubber ring. The bather’s outstretched leg points to the hours, while a little rubber duck shows the minutes.
Devos was inspired by a quote from a Chinese writer and philosopher called Lin Yutang, who said: “If you can spend a perfectly useless afternoon in a perfectly useless manner, you have learnt how to live.”
Champions’, a selection of vintage Heuer chronographs with a US$1 million estimate.
The idea to get the Monaco watch onto McQueen’s wrist in the 1971 movie is credited to Jack Heuer, now in his 90s and a grandson of the company founder. The square-cased chronograph was not selling well and getting a ‘star’ to wear one was a great marketing coup.
The poster of McQueen in racing overalls wearing a Monaco changed everything. More than half a century later the watch is still an icon for the brand, with countless evolutions continuing to spring from the original Monaco, first launched in 1969.
FOR CLOCK WATCHERS
Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr bought extra sparkle to the City of Light last month with its highly anticipated Paris Jewels auction. The sale showcased dazzling designs from the world’s most prestigious jewellery houses, including a circa 1930 Cartier desk clock featuring a mother-of-pearl dial with diamond-set Roman numerals and a fan-shape hour hand in diamonds. The clock is encased in coral bands outlined in black enamel and perched elegantly on an onyx and gold base. This rare beauty sold for 152,800 euros.
THE PHOENIX RISES
The Gismondi 1754 La Fenice diamond necklace stole hearts in Nevada, earning it the celebrated 2024 USA Couture Design Award in the Diamonds above US$40,000 category. The piece draws inspiration from the phoenix, a mythical creature known for its cyclical rebirth from ashes, symbolising resilience and strength in the face of adversity.
The finished piece, La Fenice, is anchored by a stunning D-colour 5.05ct white pear-shaped diamond, symbolising the nest of the phoenix and is supported by two strands of diamonds, one round and one pear-shaped, which provide a sturdy foundation for the necklace to gracefully unfold.
There are more than 64cts of pear-shaped diamonds and 31cts of round diamonds in total, creating the appearance of a brilliant, feathered crest that sits atop the chest.
Steve McQueen appearing in the 1971 cult classic Le Mans.
PHOTO: MEL TRAXEL FOR TAG HEUER.
IT’S ABOUT FLAMING TIME
In partnership with luxury goods and cigar lighter specialist S.T. Dupont, Franck Muller has created an off-the-wall timepiece. The S.T. Dupont X Franck Muller Master Lighter is a fully functional cigar lighter. And it is also a doublesided mechanical watch with a threeday power reserve.
On one side is a sunray-stamped lacquered dial, with hours and minutes displayed via central hands. The other side of the lighter shows the watch’s skeletonised movement.
The technical achievement according to Frank Muller is the fact that the “axis indicating the hours and minutes runs right through the lighter, passing through the centre of the gas reservoir.”
The Master Lighter has a gentle twin flame, a characteristic of S.T. Dupont cigar lighters. The lighter comes in white, blue or black, with 88 pieces available of each colour.
And not to be outdone, L’Epée 1839,
Verity Set
to celebrate its 185th birthday, has made a tribute to a classic racing car that tells the time and also lights your cigar. The T35 is L’Epée the “greatest racing machine of all time” and mirrors the style of a Grand Prix car from the 1920s.
The body is made from panels of solid aluminium, with other components in stainless steel and palladium-plated brass. Hours and minutes are shown on the side of the chassis via two engraved stainless-steel
disks. The in-house movement has an eight-day power reserve and is wound by pulling the car backwards, like a toy car.
Time is set with the steering wheel and pulling the handbrake in the side of the chassis releases the engine, which is a fully functional lighter. The rechargeable lighter has a gas level indicator and a double flame designed specifically for cigars.
It comes in a limited edition of 100 pieces in each of four colours: French racing blue; British racing A green; Obsidian black and Ferrari red.
CARTIER CREATIONS ON DISPLAY
From 12 April to 16 November 2025 the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, will stage the UK’s first major exhibition in almost 30 years dedicated to the creations of Cartier, exploring how the Maison became a force in the jewellery and watch world.
Featuring more than 350 objects, it will chart the evolution of the house’s legacy of art, design and craftsmanship since the turn of the 20th century, when the three grandsons of founder Louis-François set out to create the first globally-recognised jewellery house, establishing branches in Paris, London
and New York.
With an enviable client list of royalty and aristocracy from all over the world, Cartier was ‘the jeweller of kings and king of jewellers’ and later broadened its appeal thanks to the devotion of individuals from the worlds of cinema, music and fashion. The exhibition will include precious jewels and showstopping objects, historic gemstones, iconic watches and clocks from the V&A and Cartier Collection, as well as previously unseen drawings from the V&A and Cartier archives, together with works lent by His Majesty
PLATINUM BARS ON YOUR SHOPPING LIST?
After selling more than US$100 million in gold bars, Costco USA has now added platinum bars to its offerings.
A 1 oz. platinum bar reportedly retails for US$1,089, slightly above platinum’s current US$998-an-ounce spot price
ANYONE FOR PADEL?
Padel, a short form racket sport played in walled courts one-third of the size of a tennis court, is widely considered the fastest-growing sport in the world, with more than 25 million players in 110 countries. Watchmaker Certina has collaborated with one of the sport’s leading professional players, Spaniard Marta Ortega, on a new DS-7 Chrono Padel Edition, which Ortega has signed on its case back.
The watch is powered by a Swiss-
(as at October). Manufactured by PAMP Suisse, which has also supplied Costco’s gold bars, the bar comes inscribed with an image of the Roman goddess of fortune and luck.
Costco’s platinum bars are sold only to members, and only online and unlike
made quartz-chronograph movement that can measure time down to 1/10th of a second and comes in a black PVDcoated 41mm stainless steel case. Its dial is made from the same carbon fibre used in padel rackets and has a small padel tennis ball at 6 o’clock.
Padel originated in Mexico during the 1960s under the guidance of entrepreneur Enrique Corcuera. The game is traditionally played in a glass cage in a space smaller than a standard tennis court. This allows players to utilise the glass walls for balls to rebound. Corcuera developed the idea of walls in response to wanting a more private space to play tennis in at his home.
Pickleball is typically played on outdoor or indoor hard courts, whereas padel is commonly played on artificial grass or synthetic surfaces. This allows padel to achieve a faster pace of play, with pickleball at a slightly slower tempo. Pickleball uses a perforated ball with holes in it, compared to padel’s pressurised ball which is similar to a tennis ball.
King from the Royal Collection, major UK and international museums and private collections.
other Costco items, platinum bars can’t be bought in bulk. Members are limited to one purchase, a maximum five bars and like the gold bars, the platinum items are nonrefundable.
Inspired by New York’s Manhattan, the city that never sleeps, Bucherer mimics the city’s clear architectural lines and glittering skyline in its new high jewellery collection.
The 18ct yellow gold necklace is adorned with 21 tourmalines in pale green pastel shades and eight golden yellow beryls, three princess-cut and five round-cut, as well as 399 brilliantcut diamonds set in the necklace. The 18ct yellow gold ear clips with four tourmalines and 58 brilliant-cut diamonds are an ideal match, crafted with gold alloy to lend a warm look.
The
Brooch in amethyst, diamond, sapphire and platinum, Cartier London, circa 1933.
Certina DS-7 Chrono Padel Edition.
MANHATTAN MOTIVATION
NEWS
A TRIBUTE TO THE WORLD’S FIRST AUTHOR
Montblanc has unveiled a limited edition of its Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon, made in tribute to the world’s first known author, Enheduanna, a Sumerian high priestess, who lived around 2300 BC. Hers is the earliest known example of first-person writing and Enheduanna is thought to be the first writer to claim authorship of their own work. The writing was on clay tablets, the system used for thousands of years that became known as cuneiform.
The Star Legacy Exo Tourbillon Skeleton Enheduanna has a 44.8mm yellow gold case that offers a wideopen view of the showcase movement and the little gold details. The small onyx dial is engraved with an extract from a hymn by Enheduanna. Between the exo-tourbillon (the balance wheel is placed outside the rotating cage) and the off-centre dial is an 18ct yellow-gold relief of Enheduanna. The gold bull at 3 o’clock is one of the representations of Enheduanna’s status as a “moon god”, along with the gold crescent moon at 12 o’clock.
Engravings of Sumerian numbers are etched into the seconds counter and the Sumerian number 10 refers to the size of this 10-piece limited edition. Instead of a logo, Montblanc has been translated using the Sumerian symbols for white and mountain.
A POCKET WATCH, A PENDANT OR A TABLE CLOCK
In collaboration with New York artist Daniel Arsham, watchmaker Hublot claims a world first with its sapphire crystal pocket watch. The Arsham Droplet pocket watch measures 73.2mm in length and 52.6mm across and is made from a blend of titanium, rubber and sapphire crystal. It is powered by Hublot’s Meca10 manufacture movement, with a 10-day power reserve. The sapphire crystal case is a first for pocket watches, according to a video that Arsham put out accompanying the piece.
As well as going in your pocket, it comes with two titanium chains, each with Hublot’s one-click system for easy attachment so it can be worn around the neck. It also comes with a titanium and glass stand so it can be used as a table clock.
The case is a sandwich construction, with two domed teardrop-shaped crystals, open-worked titanium and rubber side bumpers with Daniel Arsham’s monogram stamped onto the surface.
“The Arsham Droplet is a true testament to the power of collaboration,” Arsham said. “By combining Hublot’s technical expertise with my own artistic vision, we have created a timepiece that transcends the traditional pocket watch, blending the past, present and future in a captivating and unexpected way.”
TOWN AND AROUND
Meet Andrea Spicer, a Taihape manufacturing jeweller and boutique store owner …
Tell us about your background in the jewellery industry, when did it all begin?
I left my home in Hamilton at the age of 17 in 1982 to take up an apprenticeship with Richard Sheppard in Whanganui. After that I went to London for three years, where I had a number of jobs in Hatton Gardens, as well as working as a gardener and at the Science Museum, in between travelling around Europe and Africa.
What led up to you opening Andrea Spicer Jewellery in Taihape?
I worked from a workshop on our lifestyle block near Marton for a number
of years while our children were growing up. I was mainly doing repairs and remakes etc for locals. We moved to Taihape in 2010 to be nearer to my grandmother and mother, which also coincided with my youngest son starting high school. So, it seemed to be a good time to challenge myself and open a shop.
Who do you work beside? And their role in the business?
Ginger the cocker spaniel welcomes everyone into the shop and does her best to protect me from couriers and anyone wearing hi-vis. She keeps the men entertained while their partners browse. I also have the wonderful Claire Law, who keeps all the silver jewellery sparkling and runs the shop one-two days a week, so I can have a couple of days off.
Describe your workspace…
I have a small shop in the old Taihape Post Office building. Up until a year ago there was a very well-known gift shop located in the same building, however, they relocated and I am here by myself now.
What does your business specialise in?
I think that when you are in a small town (Taihape has a population of approximately 1500) you don’t have the luxury of specialising in anything. You need to be willing to cater to as many people as you can. For Taihape, being
located on SH1 is its savour. We are just the right distance from Taupo, that the travelling public are ready for a break and a coffee. We have some great cafés and shops in town.
Claire Law and Andrea Spicer.
Head of Security Ginger Spicer.
I make most of the rings in my shop. I stock a lot of silver jewellery, mostly earrings and pendants. I also stock Evolve Jewellery. Most of my customers are domestic tourists, with a few internationals. I think I am the only manufacturing jeweller between Palmerston North and Taupo, so get a lot of customers from my old hometown of Marton and also Ohakune, Raetihi and even Taumarunui. But it is surprising how many women happen to have jewellery in their handbags to be repaired and don’t know who to take it to.
How have your customers’ tastes in design and materials changed over the years?
I find that rural people are not particularly influenced by fashion. Your creations are inspired by? If I’m making something for my shop
it will often be whatever pops into my head and then quite often it changes during the making. I’m not really someone who likes to sit down and design something carefully and then make it exactly. If I’m making a commission for someone I will stay with the plan.
What are your current best-selling pieces?
Silver pieces are selling better than gold, (but I feel there is no surprise there). Greenstone is probably selling the best from the shop now.
What are the most important skills for a jewellery designer to have?
I’m not sure I would call myself a designer. But it’s important to listen to your clients and design what they want, even if you think it is going to be a monstrosity, because I’m often surprised when it turns out to be perfect for the
client. I like jewellery that is practical and easy to wear.
How do you relax away from the business?
We have a couple of acres that we have been developing for the past 10 years. I’ve planted hundreds of trees and landscaped the gardens and a fishpond. My husband, David, has built a large workshop for his business and all sorts of other buildings, including the tiny home we live in.
I’m learning to oil paint and recently I’ve also been doing some photography, however, my favourite pastime is to hide away and read a book.
Plans for the future?
Next year we will be ready to start building a house. As owner builders it will be an exciting challenge. Hopefully it might be finished before we retire.
Andrea Spicer 9ct garnet and diamond ring.
Andrea Spicer 9ct amethyst and diamond ring.
Andrea Spicer Malaya garnet ring.
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OBITUARIES
David L. Smith passed away recently at age 94 in Avondale, Auckland. David commenced a six-year apprenticeship with Mr Warburton in 1947 and completed in 1952 when Warburtons was located in the CML buildings in Queen Street, Auckland. David bought shares in the company and when Mr Warburton died, David owned 49% of the company. When Mrs Warburton passed away, he purchased the remaining shares. The company became E.R. Warburton & Co.
The business changed from watch repairs to importing watchmakers and jewellers’ supplies and moved to Albert Street, Auckland, to a bigger showroom housing a huge selection of tools. David was very involved in the Horological Institute where he was the National President for some time.
Recognised as a fine watchmaker, David’s other passion in life was music. He played clarinet in many orchestras and he restored and repaired instruments for his large private collection and for travelling musicians. He arranged for his collection to go to the Auckland Museum, where it remains today.
- Helen Howitt
John Wild has passed away aged 94 years. John did a six-year apprenticeship in Cambridge and Rotorua and eventually opened his own shop in Putaruru. He later worked with Brian McGillivray at Rotorua Watch and Jewellery.
After a four-year stint in Sydney, the family returned to NZ and settled in Auckland. John worked for Brownsons briefly, then in Devonport at the back of a gift store. He went on to join J. Yock and Co., who had Citizen, Bulova and Longines agencies on K'Rd and then to William Donald Ltd (part of Miles and Carlaw Duty Free) in Fort St, with the Bulova agency.
Dad and I went out on our own in 1981 upstairs in the Canterbury Arcade for several years, before moving to the Armishaw Building in Albert St. John retired to Stanmore Bay, where he enjoyed woodworking in a large workshop under his house and caravanning with a local club.
A true old gentleman who will be missed.
- Mark Wild
Well known and respected agent Dave Wells passed away, aged 70, in September. He had a career of some 50 years in the jewellery and associated industries, representing wellknown brands PEKA and Olympic watches in the top half of the North Island.
Always a cheerful happy person, he will be missed by many.
- Mark Sanders
metals.
David Smith
Historic timepiece tells more than just the time
“A humble pocket watch dating back to the early 1800s is a symbol of changing times for early New Zealand,” says Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga Northland Manager Bill Edwards.
The pocket watch is part of the Heritage New Zealand Pouhere Taonga collection based in Northland and once belonged to Englishman John King (1787-1854). Together with wife Hannah and a group of fellow missioners, King helped establish the first Christian mission at Hōhi near Rangihoua Pā in the Bay of Islands, under the protection of Ngāpuhi rangatira, Ruatara. Today, the Rangihoua Heritage Park is a Tohu Whenua (landmark).
Bill Edwards: “The watch was likely made in England in 1807 and given to King in 1809. Besides its age, the watch itself is not particularly unusual. It’s what it represents, however, that makes it so sighificant,”
Time really was of the essence for both Māori and Pākehā when John King waded ashore at Rangihoua a couple of days before Christmas, 1814.
“Marking time accurately was important to both cultures, though this was done in very different ways,” says Bill. “John King’s ticking timepiece is the perfect illustration of two very different approaches to keeping time, as well as science.”
King’s mechanical device allowed him to break down the day into clearly defined slots of time, whether they were hour-long, half-hour-long or whatever. It was the perfect solution for time management during the day and important for the running of a European-style school that King and his fellow missionaries aspired to set up as part of the Hōhi mission.
The Half Hunter styled watch, so called for its small glass window which enabled huntsmen to tell the time without having to flick open the outer case while they were busy chasing foxes, came with its own very particular set of cultural baggage. The simple timepiece is a reminder that the two worlds that came together at
Rangihoua could not have been more dissimilar.
For Māori, time measurement was no less exact, it was just different.
“Māori were finely attuned to their environment and had their own time-keeping system based on close observation of nature,” said Bill.
“Whereas Europeans classified the three warmest months of the year rather loosely as ‘summer’, Māori identified seven distinct phases within the summer season based on what was going on with nature including marine life, blossoming trees and other natural indicators.”
The changes in the natural world and what they meant to Māori made up part of Mātaruanga Māori - traditional Māori knowledge - which encompassed everything from botany, zoology, agriculture, the arts and even political science.
The Maramataka, or lunar calendar, which identified optimal times for planting, fishing and other foodgathering activities, is an example of this body of knowledge that was handed down by Māori over generations and which was essential for
survival and prosperity. The different scientific approaches taken by these two very different worlds can also be seen in each culture’s approach to navigation according to Bill.
“The stars played a central role in the discovery and settlement of Aotearoa. Navigating by the stars and other natural phenomena led Polynesian explorers to arrive in Aotearoa in about the 13th century. By following the rising and setting stars over the horizon, the ‘star path’ allowed people to navigate around the Pacific and enabled organised migrations to take place.
“If you were navigating to Aotearoa from eastern Polynesia, for example, then Meremere [Venus] would replace the sun as a guide in the night sky. When Venus dropped over the horizon then Autahi [Canopus] served as a guiding mark; near the prow of the waka as Rehua [Antares] dropped into the sea, then Puanga [Rigel] was at a bearing to Tautoru [Orion’s Belt].
“During the day, swell and wind would orientate the navigator, then as the sun set west, the navigator, with their star path knowledge, could navigate the star-studded sky.”
John King’s pocket watch. Time to reflect.
European navigators were also fascinated by the celestial bodies for much the same purpose, though used different methods.
Bill: “In 1769 Lieutenant James Cook and his crew carried out astronomical experiments with the recording of the transit of Venus in Tahiti and Transit of Mercury in Aotearoa, with a view to using this information to calculate longitude more accurately. Cook’s astronomical observations around the world improved the science of navigation, though finding longitude could still be a bit hit and miss.”
The mystery behind accurately and consistently calculating longitude had been cracked by John Harrison eight years earlier in 1761, with his invention of a precise, workable chronometer, a highly accurate clock which was set to Prime Meridian, or Greenwich Mean Time, at the Royal Observatory at Greenwich in London.
With two accurate time pieces on board a ship, one calibrated to Greenwich Mean Time and the other calibrated to local time (achieved by
using a sextant to calculate midday), it became relatively easy to work out longitude anywhere in the world using the difference between the two times.
On his second voyage on the Resolution Cook had been charged by the Royal Navy to test the accuracy of the new fangled maritime chronometer. It passed with flying colours and would become the standard tool used to accurately calculate longitude.
“Again, time measurement was at the centre of this breakthrough and reinforced the European navigation mindset of the navigator being on the ‘outside looking in’ using mathematical formulae and data to calculate position.
“This contrasted wtih the Polynesian perspective, which saw the navigator very much ‘in place’ and in tune with the natural world; which in turn provided data in the form of information and guidance about location and direction. Although the science behind these two methods of navigation could not have been more different, they both worked.”
AN UNTIMELY MISHAP
John King’s timepiece wasn’t the first pocket watch Māori had seen.
Captain James Ceroni had arrived at Whangaroa in 1808 on his ship the Commerce and rapidly discovered that Māori were fascinated by his pocket watch, regarding it as an atua or god.
Completely ignorant of the different world view of the people he was among and presumably unaware of the impact of his actions, Ceroni enjoyed making a play of showing his watch off whenever he had an audience. In the middle of one such session he inadvertently dropped it over the side of the ship where it fell into the depths of the Whangaroa Harbour.
One interpretation of events was that Māori considered this action to have set something unwelcome loose in the water. That sense of disquiet grew when they awoke one morning shortly afterwards to discover that the Commerce had sailed without the usual farewells. Their worst fears
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were realised when an epidemic claimed the lives of many Māori soon after, including Chief Kaitoke.
The incident was to have repercussions. Rev William Williams who travelled through the area some years later, reported that he had been told that the dropping of the watch and subsequent epidemic was the real reason behind the attack on the Boyd, (the first ship to enter the Whangaroa since the pocket watch incident), which took place a year later in 1809. Around 70 crew and passengers were killed and the ship was subsequently destroyed.
The Blowing Up of the Boyd by Louis John Steele, 1889.
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Creativity, artistry, style and excellence
Jewelers of America (JA), the national trade association for businesses serving the USA fine jewellery marketplace, has announced the winners of its 34th annual CASE Awards jewellery design competition. The CASE Awards, JA’s national design competition, recognises JA members who exhibit creativity, artistry, style and excellence in jewellery design.
First place winners were selected out of more than 120 entries in eight categories. Categories were separated for JA retail members and JA supplier members: Jewellery up to US$2,000, US$2,001 to US$5,000, US$5,001 to US$10,000 and US$10,001 to US$50,000 (retail values). One entry was named Best in Show overall.
The 2024 CASE Award Winners are:
Retailer: Jewellery up to US$2,000
Cracked-in-half sphere earrings featuring green amethyst in 925 sterling silver with 18ct gold plating. US$670. - German Kabirski, Lake Worth, Florida.
Retailer: Jewellery US$2,001 to US$5,000
18ct yellow gold hand-forged ring featuring an 8.17ct square checkerboard amethyst centre stone that is bezel set in a compass orientation, with six channel set diamonds on the shank that are all ideally cut (0.54 ctw). US$4,950.Underwoods Fine Jewelers, Fayetteville, Arizona.
Retailer: Jewellery US$5,001 to US$10,000
14ct yellow gold Petite Elo Modular Convertible necklace featuring a 38.25ct removable amethyst and a round bezel set natural rubellite on the mesh cradle (0.25 ctw). US$6,500. - Hey Babe LA, Novato, California.
Retailer: Jewellery US$10,001 to US$50,000
18ct rose gold ring with Ethiopian opal (16.8 ct), emeralds (.25 ctw), sapphires (0.20 ctw), rubies (.025 ctw), black diamonds (.10 ctw) and white diamonds (.25 ctw). US$18,600. - Heard Gallery, San Antonio, Texas.
Supplier: Jewellery up to US$2,000
14ct white and yellow gold diamond cut and cluster diamond stud earrings (0.23 ctw). US$1,800. - Gabriel & Co., New York.
Supplier: Jewellery US$2,001 to US$5,000
Falling Stars long earrings in 18ct yellow gold with diamonds (.242 ctw), multi-colour sapphires (3.11 ctw), London blue topaz, Swiss blue topaz and pink tourmaline. $4,310. - Martha Seely Design, Carlisle, Massachusetts.
Supplier: Jewellery US$5,001 to US$10,000 and Best in Show
14ct white gold earrings with natural tourmalines (60.29 ct), 58 natural diamonds F/vs1 (0.945ct;), 20 natural pink sapphires (0.63ct), 8 natural pink sapphires (1.670ct). US$5,800. - Olga Shatrova LLC, Irvine, California.
Supplier: Jewellery US$10,001 to US$50,000
Hand crafted one-of-a-kind 18ct yellow gold ring featuring an elongated cushion cut Vietnamese lavender spinel (3.04ct). The setting is a hand carved 18ct yellow gold casting with no prongs. $US30,000. - Vanessa Fernández Studio, Miami, Florida.
Good vibes and now great expectations
“Early indications are the 2025 JWNZ Spring Trade Fair will be a sell out,” says fair organiser Debbie Whiting. “This follows the success of this year’s fair; one that delivered good vibes and many happy people.
“September’s fair saw more visitors and exhibitors than last year and more Australian companies headed across the Tasman. It’s not the biggest fair in the world, but it is definitely the friendliest.
“We are growing and growing fast. Consequently, we have outgrown the Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron and next year the fair will be held at the more spacious and user-friendly Viaduct Events Centre, located at the Wynyard Quarter, downtown
Auckland.”
According to Debbie, the Viaduct Events Centre ticks all the boxes. Especially as every exhibitor will be on one level and table sizes can be increased.
“There will be no disadvantaged stands and every area of the fair will offer maximum exposure. It will be a level playing field for everyone.”
Debbie says the Trade Fair Committee would like to see more visitors from the South Island.
“We have looked into moving the fair to another city, but it is just not cost effective. So I urge prospective visitors to register early for 2025 and seek good travel and accommodation deals.
“In the meantime, I would like to thank our 2024 fair sponsors: Star Gems & Jewellery, Landau Jewellery, Pacific Time Industries, Morris & Watson and PEKA. Also, thanks go to the reception crew and hospitality girls, Gracey Griffin, Claudia Luke, Lucy Mason, Anita Jackson and Rosemary Buxton.
“I can proudly say for 2025 our exhibitor stands will go from 72 to 104. That’s a lot of product and people to see, so come early. There is a café on site and many restaurants and businesses within walking distance. This year the House of Travel prize travel vouchers were very popular, we hope to do these again: we are also looking at introducing travel incentives and, of course, the champagne ladies will be back.
“If you are serious about the jewellery and watch industry you just have to be there.”
Pictured at the pre-fair Saturday evening social get together held at the RNZYS and celebrated with a Western theme …
The Viaduct Events Centre, overlooking the Waitemata
No partners needed!
“Don’t tell my heart, my achy breaky heart” … a line dancing classic with catchy lyrics and rhythm you can’t ignore. You just have to hit the floor and bust out your best moves. And led by Annette Kennedy’s line dancing troupe, guests at the JWNZ pre fair Westernthemed evening, did just that.
JWNZ Fair Dates for your diary: September 14th, 2025, September 13th 2026. To exhibit contact: Debbie Whiting, JWNZ Trade Fair organiser, Ph 274 777 955, inklink@xtra.co.nz.
Did you see any varmints on the trail?
Phillippe Poix and Craig Troy.
Country gals Gracey Griffin and Claudia Luke.
Rhonda Barr.
Erin Keller and Niven McArthur.
Grant Rae, Kaye Rae and John Michaelis.
Wynn Sher and Jenny Sher.
Fair play
Feedback received from a selection of Fair exhibitors and visitors…
I thought the fair was well organised, which created a relaxed atmosphere for stall holders and visitors alike. Also, lovely views from the venue, which I think encouraged people to hang out for longer.
It’s important to show Morris & Watson’s long history of support for the industry by being seen at the fair and visitors were excited to see the range that we provide, even if they already deal with us in multiple areas, they maybe weren’t aware of what else we can offer. There was a lot of interest in our resin prints, as well as handmade chains.
We are very excited to see the new venue next year, I think having everyone in one space will be beneficial. We look forward to it.
- Exhibitor Antonia Morris, Morris & Watson, Auckland.
It was really eye opening for us. We didn't know what to expect as it was our first jewellery fair in NZ, but we really enjoyed it. It was great to see a busy fair and we definitely benefitted from being there. It was great to be
able to see current wholesalers and meet potential customers. We picked up a few new doors which is really exciting for us.
Current wholesalers loved seeing the new product in the flesh; good to try things on and get styling tips. We also had our full core jewellery line available to view, which was helpful for them to see while heading into Christmas and we met new customers who have only seen our product online. Many were impressed by our large offering and the quality.
For us personally, we would have loved to been on the main floor. The Viaduct Events Centre will help with this next year. Yes, we will be attending again next September.
- Exhibitor Ayla Surtees, Stolen Girlfriends Club, Auckland.
For me the Fair ticketed a lot of boxes. I had a shopping list and on the whole managed to source everything I was looking for. There was a lovely mix of our NZ and Australian suppliers and I found the atmosphere warm and inviting, everyone was very obliging and
I felt we were very well looked after with coffee and food. A very well-run event and I will definitely be attending next year.
- Visitor Kerry Phillips, Country Jewel, Winton.
I thought the fair was great and well attended. Unfortunately, we were in a room above and did not see that many people; the ground floor seemed really busy. We would like to participate next year in the new venue and be on the main floor.
Thanks for all your assistance, greatly appreciated.
- Exhibitor Raj Barmecha, Sparkle Impex, Sydney.
The fair had good feeling. The exhibitors were focused and a lot of them were obviously well versed and prepared.
It’s important for us to be ‘seen’ in an event like this. Not just from a sales perspective, but also meeting new and upcoming businesses, making new connections or keeping up with the changes in the industry.
From left, Laura Ind, Andrew Biggs, Selwyn Brandt and Sandy Brandt.
From left, Antonia Morris, Rhonda Barr and Robyn Saint Laurent.
The Regal team from left, Kirsty Shutkowski, Julie Hitchmough, Vanessa Astley, Stacey Stratton, Trevor Astley and Deena Faofua.
From left, Shivangi Modi, Mario Andreou and Catherin Seth.
Howdy partner … Susi Chinnery-Brown and Jane Anderson. Franchesca Kent and Malcolm Alderton.
We were privileged to be showing Solar’s range and the reaction was favourable. We are continuing to make new designs and will have some more to unveil next year. I’d like to put it forward to the other parts of the industry that they also would be welcome and encouraged to show or represent, for example, learning institutions, valuers, lapidarists, machinery suppliers, watchmakers, apprentices.... What about a design and make competition, where we showcase best design, best handmake, best CAD draw?
And yes, we will be at the Viaduct next year, with bells on.
- Exhibitor Nick Cowley, The Refinery & Solar Jewellery, Rotorua.
Always love catching up with suppliers and others in the trade, although I found the layout quite disjointed. I had a shopping list and I found what I needed…. and some. Will definitely be attending at the Viaduct Events Centre next year and look forward to a more open user-friendly layout.
- Visitor Gina Botham, GMW Jewellery, Blenheim
Gerrim gets good coverage in Australia and we were hoping to connect with more clients in Auckland, the difficulty is getting them to any fair, be it Australia or NZ.
We had a good response from those who visited our stand and certainly was greatly improved from the previous year.
I know you have booked the Viaduct Events Centre, which looks great, but it would be great if it was at a large hotel that has an event room and parking on site or nearby as both suppliers and retailers are able to stay and work from same location. As for next year, we are wanting to see how the lead up to Christmas goes; staying positive, we probably will attend.
- Exhibitor Gerri Maunder, Gerrim International, Brisbane.
The fair had a great atmosphere with a solid turnout of both exhibitors and visitors. It was evident that everyone was engaged and busy and overall, it felt like a very successful event.
Attending the fair is very important for us. It provides an excellent opportunity to connect with a broad range of our customers and engage with other exhibitors. It’s a great platform for us to strengthen our relationships and showcase our new offerings. The response to our new product range was very positive. There was considerable interest and many customers were eager to place orders as they prepare for the upcoming busy season.
We’re absolutely looking forward to returning and participating in the event at the Viaduct Events Centre.
- Exhibitor Geoff Kidd, PEKA, Christchurch.
It was great to see the support that came from the trade this time, as it’s been a trying year for all. Visitors were
happy to see a lot of specials on our display, something that we don’t always do. Loved the coloured stone collection as well.
Definitely will be back next year, at the Viaduct Events Centre. It’s important for House of Bond to be ‘seen’ at an event like this. It’s our trade fair!
Great job to Debbie Whiting and Craig Anderson for organising a great event.
- Exhibitor Sahil Wadhwa, House of Bond, Auckland.
Well set up, good clear signage, not overly busy but engaged. Good to catch up with Australian suppliers not seen at the IJF in Sydney. The location is great, but congratulations on securing enough suppliers that the JWNZ has outgrown the location.
No shopping list for us, but fortunate to have jewellery to select from by winning a prize. Will be back next year.
- Visitor Jenni Franich, John Franich Jewellers, Auckland.
We are looking into establishing our own jewellery business, so this year our main objective attending the trade fair was to re-establish relationships with suppliers and introduce my long-time friend and business partner Joshua Hooper to the industry, to get a feel for where we are wanting to head. So, It was great to see some people I haven’t talked to in a while and successfully we came home with our fill of business cards, catalogues and some treats (thank you).
Joshua was very grateful for being picked as the lucky prize winner of the travel voucher, but is now caught in the difficult predicament of a spontaneous local holiday, or adding it to a great overseas getaway. Grateful for the predicament, nonetheless. Hopefully next year we will be returning with a successful year of trading under our belt and a long shopping list for potential clients.
- Visitor Luke Adams, Supernova Manufacturing Jeweller, Whangaparaoa.
The fair was ‘boutique small’, well set up, busy and with a good vibe in a unique space.
It is a nice opportunity for us to connect with our existing customers and meet potential customers in NZ. We do not have to be there, so importance is medium, but we were very happy we came. We had very positive feedback. Everyone enjoyed looking and asking about the designs. Several said “had we known you were here and what you have, we would not have spent our money downstairs.
As the venue is changing next year it’s hard to comment, however, I think you could have had more of a welcome and reception area for the guests. All the big fairs create a bit of fanfare at the entrance to the fair, welcoming, collecting tickets, providing maps, information etc... it creates a buzz at the entrance and gears the guests up to start shopping.
Yes, we would like to attend next year.
- Exhibitor Craig Troy, Poix & Troy, Sydney.
There on the day…
From left, Rulemini, Brendan and Sapphire Wilson, Himalayan Treasures.
From left, Tilak Wadhwa, Assem Wadhwa and Sid Kalal, Star Gems & Jewellery.
From left, Nick Cowley, Michelle Edhouse and Glenn Edhouse, The Refinery & Solar Jewellery.
Jade Trickey and Tim Fastnedge, Techspan.
Rachel McLeod and Danny Dawson, Westend Collection.
Nicola Adams and Anthony Enriquez, Showcase Jewellers Buying Group.
Visitors, from left, Kirsty Walker, Andrea O’Brien, Megan Walker, Sharon Lewis and Vicki Liddington, Showcase Jewellers Te Awamutu.
From left, Carl, Carlie, Priscilla and Carston Yung, Carl Yung Gems.
Fair front-of-house welcomers, from left, Lucy Mason, Craig Anderson and Claudia Luke.
2024 Trade Certificate candidates with Grant Harrison, Jewellery Registration Industry Registration Board of NZ, from left, Ameila Pask, GMW Jewellery; Claire Hirson, Sherringtons; Isabella Roland, Jewellery Services; Caleb Dowling, Jewellery Services; Cameron Mew, Facets and Aaron Brown, Howick Village Jewellers.
House of Travel $500 travel voucher prize winner Joshua Hooper from Supernova Manufacturing Jeweller, Whangaparaoa, with head of fair security Norm Newton.
Anthony Hodgkinson, OOZOO Timepieces.
Karen Ridikas and Josh Allnutt, Triton Sourcing & Distribution Ltd.
Bourne Buirski, Finney’s Importers & Distributors Ltd.
Denham Russell and Robert Russell, Pronto Clock Company.
Lindsay Hempel and Ken Abbott, Time Supply.
Tatiana Katsnelson and Yevgeny Katsnelson, Eugene’s Jewellery.
Visitors Kerry Phillips and John Phillips from Country Jewel, Winton, with Ken Abbott, Time Supply (centre).
Lisa and Zillah Daysh, Audacious Gems.
Jane Carter and Helen Thompson-Carter, Fabuleux Vous Ltd/FV Jewellery.
Gerri Maunder and Rosie Breadsell, Gerrim International.
Tracey Day, A&C Oslo Jewellery.
Shivangi Modi, Nina’s Jewellery Wholesale.
Mary-Louise Squire and Larah Brown, BECKS.
From left, John Worth, Georgia Vincent and Chris Worth, Worth & Douglas.
Geoff Kidd and Rhonda Barr, PEKA.
Maddie Chantry and Cindy Bucheler, Designa Accessories.
Laurie Kearns and Adam Van Sambeek, Morris & Watson.
John Michaelis and Susi Chinnery-Brown, AM Imports.
Mario Andreou of Nina’s Jewellery Wholesale ends the day with glass of bubbles.
Maulin Shah and Devang Shah, World Shiner NZ.
Visitors Ben Bettridge and Garry Bettridge, Garry Bettridge Jewellery Services Ltd, Tirau.
House of Travel $500 travel voucher winner Sophie Bioletti, of Naveya & Sloane Jewellers, with JWNZ Executive Secretary Craig Anderson.
Jane Bell, NZ Gem Trading Co Ltd.
Scott Powell, Citizen Watches Australia.
Pip Hoskins and Ayla Surtees, Stolen Girlfriends Club.
Tania Sorenson and Courtney MacKinnon, Olympic Swiss Watches.
Julie Jepson and Dayna Froggatt, New Zealand Jewellery Findings.
Charlotte Dugdale and Ollie Dugdale, Pacific Time Industries. Brian Barrett.
Making connections at the Hong Kong Fair
The September exhibitions of the 43rd HKTDC Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair and 12th Salon de TIME, organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Ltd and The Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades & Industries Ltd, brought together more than 700 exhibitors from 15 countries and regions.
The 43rd HKTDC Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair and 12th Salon de TIME attracted some 17,000 buyers from 106 countries and regions.
Meeting and greeting at the Networking Reception. PHOTOS: OLLIE DUGDALE
Despite the fairs closing temporarily due to typhoon Yagi, businesses were still able to capture more opportunities as the organisers extended the opening hours for three of the five fair days. Buyers and exhibitors were also proactively encouraged to use the EXHIBITION+ hybrid model for business exchange.
The exhibitions attracted some 17,000 buyers. Among those visitors was Ollie Dugdale from Pacific Time Industries, Christchurch, on his second visit to the annual event.
Ollie: “This year, armed with a little more knowledge about what to expect having been last year, was less overwhelming than my first visit. With more than 700 exhibitors from 15 countries and regions, the array of watch parts, clock parts, straps, watches etc on offer is extraordinary. One of the difficulties is always narrowing down the options to look at. Because of the adjacency to the JWNZ fair, we only had three days on the ground in Hong Kong and there wasn’t simply time to thoroughly review everything and meet with everyone, so we had to narrow down the list of suppliers we wished to meet prior to attending.
“We set off with some objectives in mind regarding suppliers/brands/products etc. For us, the visit isn’t so much about instantaneous purchasing or acquisition, but about making the connections to try to forge a path forward once back in NZ. For this, the fair is invaluable.
“We had some success, we found some of what we were looking for, some of what we were not looking for! Sometimes you don’t know what you want or need until you see it. We have made some new relationships which we will continue to nurture and see what they lead to. We also took the opportunity to meet with some existing suppliers and review their new products and ranges and we have some new products coming from these meetings.
“Overall, the fair is a great opportunity to meet with suppliers and to network. The HKTDC arranges a networking drinks evening, which is always a good opportunity to meet with other suppliers from other countries and get their input and feedback. The overwhelming theme from this year’s fair speaking with other attendees, is that the last year has been and continues to be tough economically. Everyone is looking forward to the return of the good times, as and when they come.”
Distributed by
Fair visitors, Olympic Swiss’s Courtney and Jamie MacKinnon with clock manufacturers Rita Qing and Lionel Li. Olympic is launching a clock range before Christmas, with its first styles arriving this month.
Not just an event, but an experience
Once home to the 130-acre Eveleigh Rail Complex Yards built on the Sydney site between 1880 and 1889, Carriageworks is now Australia's largest contemporary multi-arts centre, playing host to up to 100 projects a year, including contemporary theatre, dance, visual arts, music, film and fashion and corporate events.
Over two days in August the Jewellery Industry Fair (JIF), organised by the Jewellery Industry Network, took up residence in this iconic building with a lively showcase of innovation, craftsmanship and networking opportunities. The fair attracted more than 800 guests with more than 70 businesses celebrating the best in the jewellery industry.
Set to become a staple in future fairs a significant addition to this year’s fair was the Between the Lugs Watch Fair, featuring a diverse range of timepieces, from renowned global brands to innovative independent distributors. Also, a highlight of the Fair was the Women in Jewellery breakfast and panel discussion hosted by Janelle O’Connell from Calleija. The event saw a panel of speakers detail their challenges and wins as women in the industry and the importance of self-belief in the competitive jewellery industry. The industry-leading speakers shared invaluable wisdom with their
audience of more than100.
The fair also featured a series of expert presentations on globally significant topics. Representatives from the World Diamond Council, ICA and the GIA discussed important industry issues such as changes to the Kimberley Process and the importance of accurate diamond testing tools. Other sessions covered topics including scam awareness, diversity and inclusion in the workplace and trust-based selling.
It wasn’t just a weekend of buying and selling, exhibitors and visitors were invited to the Saturday evening party, the presentation of industry awards and
joined the Hong Kong Development Council for drinks on the Sunday afternoon.
The next Jewellery Industry Fair is scheduled for February 1-2, 2025 at the Royal Exhibition Building in Melbourne. With the exhibitor list rapidly filling and event features being planned, the 2025 fair promises to continue to foster positivity and growth within the industry. Both Melbourne and Sydney will host the JIF next year, as the Jewellery Industry Network remains committed to building sustainable assets and benefits for the community all year round. Well done Laura Moore and crew.
From left, Ritesh Kakadiya, Janvi Khunt and Manan Jayvidiam, Jayvidiam Pty Ltd.
Damien Cody, Cody Opal.
Among those exhibiting…
John Wibberley, Yerilla.
Graham Cohen, Graham Cohen Marketing.
From left, Rachael Byron, Patrick Thiess, Adam van Sambeek and Jessica Godin, Morris & Watson.
Nicholas and Samuel Shadiac, Paul Shadiac Imports.
From left, Irene, Arthur and Roula Papagrigoriou, Athan Manufacturing.
Craig Troy and Philippe Poix, Poix & Troy.
Richard Morgan, Keda Konsulting.
Marc Rom, Festina.
Dianne Zou and Xuemei Anne Wright, Hong Kong Trade Development Council.
Darren Roberts, RM Distributors.
Women in Jewellery Breakfast panel, from left, Kim Ridley, founder of Women in Jewellery (WIJ), Janelle O’Connell (Calleija Jewellers), Jenny Sher (Chem Gold), Lauren Sommer (Moi Moi), Alana Weirick (Moi Moi), Brigitte Zollo (Aurum Jewels), Laura Moore, managing director of the Jewellery Industry Network and Nadia Neuman (Mondial by Nadia).
Stepping away from their day job
Seiko’s Power Design Project 2024, the latest literation of its annual showcase, shows seven conceptual timepieces designed and realised by Seiko in-house designers around the theme of ‘Incredibly Specialised Watches’.
The project began in 2001 as a way of encouraging Seiko’s designers to find new ways to express the elements of creativity and culture that feed into the brand’s project design. Each year’s programme is centred around a different theme, the only constraint imposed on the designers is “to make
Ambidextrous by Kento Ito
While watching an ambidextrous friend move his watch from right to left wrist, the designer started to wonder how the left and right sides of the brain work and whether their dominance significantly influences our thoughts, abilities, and actions.
This led to the creation of a watch that changes its dominant colour (white to black or vice versa) when flipped 180 degrees during switching wrists. Even the Seiko logo on the crystal gets disguised.
something that works”.
Initially, the Power Design Project functioned as an internal think tank, but earlier this year the initiative went public with Seiko’s designers encouraged to create timepieces in a style that is different to their regular work. There are no current plans to
open the competition up to external designers worldwide, neither are there immediate plans to put the watches into production,
The seven watches that headline the Power Design Project 2024 are:
Panda Lovers by Kiyotaka Sakai
This timekeeper captures the lovable, teddy-bear-like appearance of a real panda giving a 3D rendering of its truest form, from the fur effect dial to the drooping eye sub dials and the tachymeter being renamed the ‘sasameter’ (bamboo meter).
SUNNY MEN BY YU ISHIHARA
How we express the flow of time shapes watchmaking philosophy –in the past, people rose at sunrise and slept at sunset in harmony with nature’s rhythm. Following in the steps of sundials and water clocks, the concept behind this sun-guided timepiece, is based in time conveyed through shifting shadows. The Sunny Men comes equipped with everything needed for a mobile sundial, from the spirit level in the base to the compass in the strap.
Masking Tape Enthusiasts by Yugo Hibayashi
Initially industrial, masking tape evolved into distinctive Japanese paper-textured stationery adorned with unique patterns. Beyond note-taking, wrapping sweets and embellishing trinkets, it became a highly addictive collectible with more than 1,000 new Japanese varieties annually.
Hide-and-Seek by Masanori Kawamura
This watch is specially engineered for competitive hide-and-seek tournaments (yes, they do exist) with official rules.
Designed for the seeker (‘ogre’ in Japanese), it features two modes: closed, with a rotating dial tracking found hiders, and open, unfolding a lens and eye patch enabling one-eyed time viewing ideal for precisely timing the initial hiding period, accompanied by a playful tune. The display boasts scales for counting down the 60-second hiding and 10-minute game durations.
Patternmaker by Kotaro Usugami
Those with a creative spirit often adjust their clothing and accessories to mirror the tools of their trade and the goal behind this timepiece is to bring new value by linking the watch’s traits to the creative act. Exploring clothing production, the petals of this wrist worn flower are pincushions surrounding the time-giving centre.
Sukiyaki by Akira Yoshida
Sukiyaki, a celebrated Japanese dish, has evolved through generations resulting in the emergence of the ultimate recipe. The method for creating the dish requires the precise placement of the ingredients and this watch is designed to perfectly time the cooking of each component.
The ingredients and timings are listed around the edge of the dial and following the guidelines should capture the essence of culinary perfection.
Bow tied
The Bows, Mikimoto’s collection unveiled during Haute Couture week in Paris was inspired by the mid-18th century Rococo or Late Baroque movement, which is best known for its opulence, ornamental and dramatic style, all the while revisiting a much-cherished brand motif, the elegant ribbon tied up as a pretty bow.
A model wears a Mikimoto necklace with Akoya cultured pearls, round brilliant-cut diamonds, fancy-cut diamonds and a 53.17-carat sea-green tourmaline from ‘The Bows’ High Jewellery collection.
A model wears a Mikimoto Rococo-inspired necklace with Akoya cultured pearls, pear-shaped morganites, a green tourmaline, pink spinel, oval-shaped pink sapphires, diamonds and pear-shaped aquamarines, all set in 18ct white gold, alongside the matching earrings.
and
The Bows High Jewellery necklace in white gold with Akoya cultured pearls and diamonds.
Brooch with Akoya cut pearls, marquise-shaped
round brilliant cut diamonds and blue sapphires surrounding a 38.72ct oval shape tanzanite cabochon.
The magic of glass art
Handcrafted over an open flame which results in colourful, organic pieces KITSCH KIOSK, a Hamburg-based jewellery label, founded by Lisa Nagel and Jonas Kammers, creates beautiful, sustainable jewellery that reflects a dedication to quality, environmental responsibility and the unique magic of glass.
Experimenting with the physical limits of glass to create innovative and original designs is the fundamental principle of the design duo who, by combining traditional techniques with
contemporary ideas, aim to create jewellery that celebrates individuality and freedom. Through flame-working, glassblowing and smoking, the studio’s creations explore the beauty and
complexity of a dynamic material that always promises surprising combinations.
A bubble ring with a playful shape and an earring with a ‘chaotic’ composition created by interweaving different filaments. Both pieces are made of transparent borosilicate glass.
The tentacle ring - A hand-blown borosilicate glass creation featuring eccentric and fluid curves.
A smoky pendant with an intricate design, made of Murano glass and sculpted by hand in a fusion of two colours: smoky grey and black.
Fancy and famous
Fifth on the diamond rarity scale (after red, green, blue and pink), yellow diamonds are known to symbolise growth, rejuvenation, and purity. The yellow diamond was first discovered in South Africa in 1866 and was eventually named the Eureka Diamond. It is now displayed at the Kimberly Mine Museum in South Africa.
Yellow diamonds get their colour from nitrogen atoms in the crystal structure. The nitrogen absorbs blue light which gives the diamond its yellow hue. Natural yellow diamond hue ranges from fancy light to fancy intense. The colour grade is based on a rating from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). The value of a yellow diamond is heavily influenced by
The 100.09 carat Graff Vivid Yellow diamond is one of the largest Fancy Vivid yellow diamonds ever seen. It set a new world auction record for the highest price ever paid for a yellow diamond when it sold for US$16.3 million at Sotheby's Geneva in May this year.
At 110.03 carats the Cora Sun-Drop Diamond is the largest known Fancy Vivid Yellow pear-shaped diamond in the world. It sold at Sothebys Geneva in 2011 for almost US$13 million. The diamond was formed deep within the Earth's crust 1-3 billion years ago and travelled on a long journey upwards in a slushy rock magma. It was found in South Africa in 2010 within a kimberlite pipe.
the intensity of the yellow colour, with the most fancy intense yellow colours being the most rare and valuable.
Sotheby's has sold many exceptional yellow diamonds at auction including four yellow diamonds that each weighed more than 100 carats…
The Gold Canary Diamond is a pear-shaped Fancy Deep brownish yellow diamond weighing 303.10 carats. This one-of-a-kind yellow diamond sold in December 2022 for US$12.3 million. Stated in the GIA report, the diamond is a fancy deep brownish colour and the clarity is internally flawless. Discovered in the early 1980s in the modern-day Democratic Republic of Congo, the Golden Canary remains the largest internally flawless diamond in the world.
In December 2023, Sothebys sold this unmounted yellow diamond for US$5.5 million. The yellow diamond is a cushion modified brilliant-cut fancy vivid yellow diamond weighing 133.03 carats. On the GIA colour scale the yellow is ‘vivid yellow’, which is the deepest most intense yellow a yellow diamond can be. Additionally, the yellow diamond clarity is VS2, meaning there are only a few visible inclusions.
Symphony of sparkles
The twin jewellery shows organised by the Hong Kong Tade Development Council will open in March 2025. The 41st HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, 4-8 March, will specialise in finished jewellery and the 11th HKTDC Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show, 2-6 March, focuses on loose stones and raw materials for jewellery. The events will be held at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre and AsiaWorld-Expo respectively.
Under the theme of Symphony of Sparkles, the twin jewellery shows are expected to gather some 4,000 exhibitors from around the world, presenting a dazzling array of exquisite
jewellery and jewellery-making materials.
The Hong Kong International Jewellery Show will feature themed zones including the Hall of Extraordinary, Hall of Fame, and Designer Galleria. The Hall of Extraordinary will showcase high-end collections mounted with stunning diamonds, precious stones, jadeite and pearls from renowned exhibitors such as Dehres, Butani, Lili Jewelry, Karen
Building on this spirit of creativity, the Hong Kong Jewellery Design Competition invites design talents to explore the theme of Lasting Brilliance. The award presentation ceremony will take place at the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show, where the winning pieces will also be showcased.
Meanwhile, the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show will feature exceptional selections of diamonds, pearls and quality gemstones, alongside raw materials for jewellery from various origins. The Hall of Fine Diamond will present huge carat-sized diamonds, Treasures of Nature will showcase stunning collections of rubies, emeralds and sapphires and Treasures of Ocean will enchant the buyers with natural sea pearls.
The shows will also deliver an all-rounded programme with jewellery parades, seminars, buyer forums and networking events that bring trending market intelligence to industry players.
The twin shows will be held under EXHIBITION+ hybrid model, complemented by the ‘Click2Match’, an online smart business matching platform, providing extended opportunities for traders to connect beyond geographical limits. To facilitate buyers’ admission, the HKTDC Marketplace App and official websites of the two shows provide an online self-authentication function. Buyers can download the HKTDC Marketplace App and register through the App by uploading their photos and valid documents for instant authentication to obtain a verified buyer e-badge for direct admission, which will greatly reduce queuing and waiting time on-site.
Website for Marketplace App https://tinyurl.com/ypjw7ha9
En pointe
Enhancing the quest for excellence with a taste for beauty and harmony, Van Cleef & Arpels has drawn endless inspiration from the world of dance.
The longstanding bond between Van Cleef & Arpels and dance dates back to the 1920s. At the time, Louis Arpels, a fervent fan of ballet, would often take his nephew Claude to the Paris Opera. Under their leadership, the Maison’s first ballerina clips were created in New York in the early 1940s, soon becoming sought after by collectors. Featuring a rose-cut diamond face complemented by a precious head dress, these ballerina figures are depicted with point shoes and a tutu made of diamonds or coloured stones.
Van Cleef & Arpels stopped
producing Ballerina brooches by the end of the 1960’s, but they were reintroduced in the 2000’s. In 2007, the brand launched its Ballet Précieux High Jewelry collection. It was inspired by the ballet ‘Jewels’ and featured clips set with rubies, emeralds and diamonds as a reference to the three acts.
In 2024, Van Cleef & Arpels extended the Ballet Précieux line with new dancers inspired by real dancers or characters in well-known ballets. Each dancer is distinctly different, but the troupe are united by their signature rose-cut diamond face.
Romeo and Juliet clips with black lacquer, rubies, coloured sapphires, spessarite garnets, lapis lazuli and white and yellow diamonds in gold, white and rose gold.
Van Cleef & Arpels Vera ballerina clip with yellow sapphires, spessartite garnets, rubies and diamonds in rose and white gold.
Van Cleef & Arpels Ballerina clip with emeralds and diamonds in white gold. It sold this year for NZ$1,523,300 at Christies Hong Kong.
Van Cleef & Arpels Spanish ballerina clip (1941) with rubies, emeralds and diamonds in platinum and gold.
From 1952, turquoise, rubies and diamonds in platinum and gold.
Precious gems and gold Van Cleef & Arpels ballerina clip.
From left to right: Van Cleef & Arpels Ballerina clip from circa 1945, Mathilda ballerina clip with round and rose-cut diamonds, round rubies and round emeralds in white gold and another ballerina circa 1945.
It’s been a busy few months. Our trade fair in Auckland was another very successful event and planning is well underway for the 2025 JWNZ Trade Fair at The Viaduct Events Centre. It will be wonderful to all be on the same floor in a big, bright, modern venue and spaces are filling up quickly, so we are expecting another sell-out despite a big increase in table numbers.
We are delighted to have our sponsors in place already: PEKA, MORRIS and WATSON, PACIFIC TIME, LANDAU JEWELLERY and NINA’S JEWELLERY. Thank you for your continued support, it is greatly appreciated.
I have been out and about round the country over the last six weeks. Retailers are always interested to see how things are tracking in the other regions (as are wholesalers!). Have to say the South Island was fairly upbeat, but things have definitely been a bit more subdued in the North. The cost of living and the high gold price has seen some changes in
GOLDSMITHS GUILD OF NZ
I had a pleasant time catching up with many of you at the JWNZ Trade Fair in September. It’s always a great opportunity to network and meet members face-to-face. There was a certain buzz, or an air of optimism, around the place that day. I really hope those feelings transmit into reality for everyone over the coming year. With Christmas, the holidays and the summer ahead, we have much to look forward to.
I was planning to hold the GG AGM in October, but a few issues interrupted that month, so it will now be held sometime in February or March. If you feel you could contribute in any way to the future of the Guild please get in touch.
Remember that Guild membership is for individual trade-qualified jewellery
buying patterns and it will be interesting to see how the year “washes up”. Coloured stone jewellery has been extremely popular in rings, earrings and pendants, as well as good quality silver jewellery and anything different and interesting. Manufacturing jewellers all seem to be busy at their benches, as are watch and clockmakers.
Interestingly, moteliers in the south told me that forward bookings were really solid and there is certainly a good number of tourists out and about. I definitely sensed more optimism than earlier in the year and I hope this translates into better retail sales.
Wishing you all a very successful leadup to Christmas and hope you get to spend some downtime with your family and friends over the summer holidays. Please feel free to contact me at any time.
- Susi Chinnery-Brown, JWNZ President, 021 751 115, susi@twentyfive7.co.nz
manufacturers whether employed, self-employed or running a business. If you have a NZ Trade Certificate in Manufacturing Jewellery you are eligible for GG membership. Goldsmith Guild membership accompanying a Trade Certificate will give jewellers greater credibility in the eyes of the consumer. Both these certificates, displayed on the wall of your premises, speak for themselves.
I wish you all the best for a great Christmas on both a business and personal level and I hope to catch up with many of you at the GG AGM in 2025.
- Brian Barrett
GGNZ
CHAIRMAN
04 476 4764, 021 661 060 nzgoldsmithsguild@gmail.com
Brian Barrett.
Susi Chinnery-Brown.
Many thanks to our trade fair sponsors:
Auckland 9.30am - 4.30pm
Come and appreciate the future in this new, modern facility!
• 20% increase in the number of exhibitors to date
• 88% increase in exhibition floor plan
• 45% increase in number of exhibitor tables
• All exhibitors on one level and one area
• Travel incentives
• Travel prizes
Be on the lookout for our notification of the opening of Visitor Registrations in early 2025
Contact:
Craig Anderson, 021 596 988, info@jwnz.co.nz
Debbie Whiting, 0274 777 955, inklink@xtra.co.nz
The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Inc.
MEMBER BENEFITS:
Jewellery Time magazine - The focal point of JWNZ member and industry communication.
JWNZ Inc. Trade Fair - An annual event held on behalf of our members, for our members and industry.
Internet - www.jwnz.co.nz - The official JWNZ website with a free listing for financial members.
Press Releases - Jewellery and watch specific editorial promotion of product and JWNZ members.
Consumer Information - Online brochures, water resistancy guide and refund policy.
BUSINESS SERVICES:
ANZ Bank - Business and Personal banking.
ANZ Merchant Business Solutions - Merchant facilities for EFTPOS, Credit & Debit Card sales.
Gallagher - Business, Personal and Travel insurances.
CourierPost - Special Trackpak rates, $2000 insurance cover on each parcel sent.
EFTPOS NZ Ltd - EFTPOS Terminals and Payment Solutions.
Gilrose Finance - Consumer Finance for Hire Purchase sales.
Grow Online Ltd - Creating Results Driven Websites, SEO (Search Engine Optimisation), SEM (Search Engine Marketing), Ecommerce Websites, B2B, Custom Solutions.
Office Products Depot - Stationery, Office furniture, Computer accessories and consumerables.
one.nz - Telecommunication services - Fixed line & Broadband
one.nz - DigitalMobile - Vodafone Product Suppliers
INDUSTRY REPRESENTATION:
Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand - Representation on the Jewellery & Watch Industry organisation responsible for Apprenticeship Training.
TRADE & COMMERCE:
Government Liaison (When required) - Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Commerce Commission, New Zealand Customs, Disputes Tribunal, New Zealand Trade & Enterprise, Immigration New Zealand, Statistics New Zealand, Ministry of Economic Development.
Busines s & Pers onal Banking Merchant Facilities
SPRING TRADE FAIR 2024
The 2024 Spring Trade Fair saw an increase in both exhibitors and visitors. We thank all of you who came to Auckland to the event and trust you will return in 2025 to experience our one-day fair. Diary the date, September 14, 2025.
Grateful thanks to our 2024 Trade Fair sponsors; Star Gems & Jewellery, Landau Jewellery (Christchurch), Pacific Time Industries, Morris and Watson and PEKA.
SPRING TRADE FAIR 2025
We are moving - The JWNZ Spring Trade Fair 2025 will be held on Sunday 14th September at the Viaduct Events Centre, on the waterfront, Hasley Street, Wynyard Quarter, Auckland. With increased exhibitor participation and additional expressions of interest in exhibiting at our Spring Trade Fair, we have out grown the space available to us at the RNZYS. Earlier this year we investigated venues in central Auckland and concluded the Viaducts Event Centre, VEC, was the venue for us in 2025, as we were able to accommodate all exhibitors on one level.
Prior to our 2024 event Debbie Whiting, Spring Trade Fair Manager,
THESE BIRDS ROCK
had secured exhibitors for 60% of our floor plan that we had decided on at the VEC. Subsequently we altered the floorplan to create additional exhibitor space. To date 90% of the now available exhibitor space has been confirmed. The one level venue allows each exhibitor greater space and visitors a greater number of exhibitors to view. Almost all our 2024 exhibitors are returning for 2025, a testament to the event which is now seen as a truly friendly fair.
JWNZ FINANCIAL MEMBERSHIP
Your ongoing support of the JWNZ through your financial membership is greatly appreciated. We are always looking to enhance membership benefits, however, sometimes what shows promise to be beneficial does not eventuate. Sometimes benefits can be of use to all, or most members and sometimes to very few, so it is hard at times to get the balance right.
JWNZ RULES (CONSTITUTION)
There is still work required to reregister the JWNZ with the Registrar of Incorporated Societies.
Many moving parts need to come together and it appears the last piece of the jigsaw has been set in place.
Tiffany & Co has unveiled its latest high jewellery capsule collection, called Rainbow Bird on a Rock. The creations are bold expressions inspired by French designer Jean Schlumberger’s iconic Bird on a Rock brooch, first introduced in 1965.
Its ageless design is reinterpreted with a curated selection of coloured gemstones, diamonds and pearls accented by rare paillonné enamel. Among the unique designs is a brooch showcasing a rare black opal of more than 35cts featuring an exceptional play-of-colour with flashes of red, orange and purple and another with a stunning champagne yellow zircon of more than 66 carats.
Other designs feature turquoise accents on the bird, one of which is set with a striking rubellite of more than 68cts and another with a blue tourmaline of more than 56 carats.
Advised by the Charities Services we now have a template that is in a format that the RIS will accept. The template also includes the specific government/legislative requirements that are required to be included. These new rules are scheduled to be completed early in 2025 and then will be presented to our membership.
JWNZ Inc. National Office
Craig Anderson
JWNZ Executive Secretary T 021 59 69 88
E info@jwnz.co.nz
Tiffany & Co. has also expanded its high watchmaking credentials with the release of the brand’s first flying tourbillon. Again inspired by Schlumberger’s brooch, the Bird on a Flying Tourbillon has a natural turquoise dial, where wafer-thin slices of turquoise gemstone are cut into cloud-like shapes. There is a diamond-set sub-dial showing hours and minutes and two diamond-set birds help put the flight into flying tourbillon.
Each bird is hand sculpted from 18ct white gold and set with 147 diamonds. The watch has a 39mm white gold case set with 340 round brilliant diamonds.
Craig Anderson.
End of year for 2024, well that came around quickly for some and for others, i.e. apprentices, sometimes a year can seem like a long time. Not to mention completing the four years at the bench we require for them to become recognised as ’Qualified’ can feel like an eternity.
Time for tally up and I’m pleased to report that ten apprentices were taken on for 2024. Thank you to all involved and in particular, the apprentice supporters blazoned at the base of this article for their support which without, none of this would be possible at all.
What being an “actual apprentice” means, has been discussed many times over the years with those in the industry, NZQA and MOE. That is, that being an actual apprentice means: Turning up for work on time every day. Being on the tools ready to go at start time. Having a break at Smoko then back on with it until lunch. Same thing after lunch with a big effort needed until afternoon Smoko, followed by the final leg until home time. During this work time there will be all sorts of challenges from dealing with workshop personalities, customers, tricky jobs, down to just getting the simple jobs done well and out on time.
Some of this can be expected and some not, as things do go wrong. Added to this are three Stages of Distance Learning Assessment to get through, 40 in total. That’s basically one a month for the four years of their apprenticeship. Then there is mastering all the skill tasks that must be signed off as mastered in their Apprentice Record Training Book, submitting and passing the Practical Test or Training Days
and then ended by a Trade Certificate examination. This is on top of working a full day and getting all jobs done.
To that, it gives me pleasure to announce that Watch and Clockmaking apprentices are back on an even keel of learning opportunity with Manufacturing Jewellery apprentices. The first two stages of the TOPNZ distance learning assignments have been completed, gone to print and been supplied to a new apprentice at Brownson Jewellers, New Plymouth. Much thanks to Alistair Saywell for his tremendous work and dedication here. There is so much more to doing (or surviving) an apprenticeship than just being shown how to make or repair something. Often learning the skills is the easy bit, completing your apprenticeship time is the hard bit. And for employers the thought of taking on an apprentice can also be daunting, but the message does appear to have got through and it is great to see that employers have taken on board the advice given: “If you want more Qualified Tradespeople, stop complaining, do something about it and take on more apprentices.” The support of apprentices is the backbone of our
skilled trade. A “skilled trade” is defined as one requiring an apprenticeship to enter. If we ever lose that, we lose our trade.
We had seven enrolled apprentices for this year’s Trade Certificate examination and one of these has been named the JIRBNZ Apprentice of the Year 2024. Congratulations to Claire Hirson (nee Metcalf), apprenticed to Sherrington Jewellers/Everson Jewellers. Very well deserved, we are all very proud of you.
– Grant Harrison
Industry appointed Commissioner of Apprentices
Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand
M: 027 693 0001, E: info@jirbnz.org.nz
W: www.jirbnz.org.nz
Grant Harrison congratulates 2024 Apprentice of the Year, Claire Hirson.
From left, Members Steve Crout, Paul Crout, Gary Barwick, Grant Harrison and Michael Crout enjoy a beer after the JIRBNZ AGM in September.
PHOTO: BRIAN BARRETT
NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES
BOUND TO DELIGHT
Nina's Jewellery's Paradox & Pathway rainbow diamond rings - a celebration of fancy cut and all-natural fancy coloured diamonds. Nina's Jewellery's on-trend contemporary classics, Uno, Trilogy and Pentagon are punch set stackable bands with the option of a splash of natural coloured diamonds for the more adventurous.
Two looks in one, the Cardigan Argyle pink diamond earrings feature removeable white diamond jackets to enhance a classic pink diamond cluster stud - epitomising surprise and delight.
Tiana: The seasons must have earrings, the Tiana rainbow diamond huggie has been Nina's Jewellery's standout bestseller in both retail and wholesale divisions. The perfect introduction to natural coloured diamonds, the green, yellow and orange citrus tones have delighted customers and stockists alike.
Contact: wholesale@ninas.co, ninasjewellerywholesale.com.au
TRY THEM ON …
This Victorian-inspired gold bracelet embodies your deepest sentiments. Crafted from recycled silver with luxurious 18ct gold plating, it features an adjustable chain extending from 16 to 19 cm. A bold 3D rose with finely engraved leaves takes centre stage, adorned with a brilliant white zirconia stone for added sparkle. TA2175Y | NZD $229.
Embrace timeless elegance with these Vintage Romance hoop earrings, crafted from recycled silver and gilded in 18ct gold plating. Featuring a Victorian-inspired design, their red lab grown sapphire drop-cut pendants, framed by white zirconia stones, exude sophistication, a perfect statement piece for a loved one or yourself. TCR748REY | NZD $269.
Channel your passion with this striking gold-toned necklace, highlighted by a bold heart-cut black zirconia stone. Accented by small white zirconia stones, this vintage-inspired piece is crafted from recycled silver with 18ct gold plating. The adjustable cord necklace offers flexibility at 40, 42.5, or 45cm for the perfect fit. TKE2297BLY | NZD $269.
Contact: Helen Finlayson, DGA Duraflex Group Australia, Ph + 61 2 9417 0177, NZ 027 7226 000, helen@dgau.com.au
LOOK AT ME…
Introducing the new ZiRO black zirconium cuff, a sleek and stylish accessory crafted to make a statement with its minimalist design and bold black finish.
Available in two sizes, it’s an ideal choice for men and women alike. Just in time for Christmas.
FOR THE MAN OF THE HOUSE
SUMMER STYLE
These elegant ESSE teardrop pendants are available in six options: Amethyst, Citrine, Blue Topaz, Garnet, Peridot and Synthetic Sapphire (Model 72-827). Beautifully crafted in sterling silver and framed with top grade Swarovski marcasites. Matching earrings available in all colours (Model 43-308).
Contact: AM Imports Pty Ltd NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown, P. 021 751 115, susi@twentyfive7.co.nz
Discover the latest collection of 9ct gold and silver bonded jewellery, available now. Our new range includes elegant twist hoops, patterned hoops, bold full tubular hoops and pendants.
Contact: Worth & Douglas, Ph 09 303 4666, sales@worthdouglas.co.nz, www.worthdouglas.com
The Helix is a timeless men’s bracelet for those who value understated refinement. Black plaited leather evokes a helix aesthetic for a simple, structured look. The handcrafted sterling silver clasp features clean architectural lines to define the overall sense of sophistication. Pair with a sterling silver cuff for a subtle bracelet stack. B9000 - Helix Men’s Silver and Leather Bracelet - $299.
The Tessera men’s bracelet exudes a rugged, pared-back edge. Its mosaiclike reptilian patterning is skilfully etched by hand and enhanced through oxidisation, a technical process that achieves a darkened look. Distinctive by design, this solid sterling silver cuff’s structure is open and slim for a discreet yet masculine look. B9006 - Tessera Men’s Silver Cuff - $329.
Contact: Helen Finlayson, helen@thebrandagent.co.nz, www.najo.com.au
Introducing new Legato by BECKS. The perfect harmony of craftsmanship and elegance. An exquisite enhancement to our classic range of wedding rings, our Legato by BECKS range showcases a contrasting offset, or centred metal inlay seamlessly tied together with the main band and your personalised message of love.
Contact: BECKS Group Australia, Mary-Louise Squire, Toll Free 0800 443 991, MaryLouiseSquire@becksgroup.au
Your new favourite watch, this is an instant classic! Featuring a 30mm gold tone crystal enriched bezel and gold and silver two-tone ladies’ bracelet, perfectly complemented by a green dial with crystal indices to create a timeless addition to your GUESS watch wardrobe. GW0767L4, $299.95.
The Oval collection offers versatility and elegance for that quiet luxury look for less. This vintage-inspired style from Rosefield features this season's must-have colour: a rich burgundy dial with a sunray finish. Completed with a refined gold-tone half-moon bracelet, this timepiece is sure to invite compliments. OVGSG-OV15, $219.95.
An 80's throwback digital mood infused with modern flair, taken directly from the extensive archives of adidas Originals. The unisex Digital Two watch is a playful accessory with serious timekeeping capabilities, including time and date display, alarm, and chronograph functions. It features a gold-tone 36mm case with a colourful twist on the dial and a matching gold-tone expansion band. AOST24559. $219.95.
Crystal-clear glamour. The Furla Easy Shape's sleek silver and yellow gold-tone multilink bracelet complements the striking sunray emerald-green dial which features a white crystal ring around the dial, with sweeping second hand and four crystal indices. WW00024037L4, $419.
Sleek, stylish and on trend. Re-introducing the Fanta, a Maxum classic that's here to stay. A trendy silver-tone curved rectangular case shape is complemented by a silver dial and a sleek two-tone stainless steel bracelet creates a chic and classy look. MW24200L02, $199.
SMART, CASUAL
Hoops are a staple for the GUESS girl for good reason! These stunning 18mm gold tone hoop earrings feature our signature triangle clear crystals and are the perfect way to elevate your everyday aesthetic. JUBE04573JWYGT-U. $99.95.
Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaaccessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au
HIGH TIME
Contact: Olympic Swiss Watches, Ph 09 825 0061, sales@olympicwatch.com, www.olympicwatch.com. IN GOOD TIME
It’s time to stock up on the latest must-have item for the holiday season, the new range of Olympic Alarm Clocks! Arriving this November, these eye-catching clocks come in a range of fun colours and retro designs that are perfect to have in store leading into the holiday season. There are eight different styles available, with a mix of digital and analogue designs. At a super affordable price point ranging from $39-$59, these clocks are a no brainer for Christmas shoppers. Pictured: Metal Rectangle Alarm Clock. Comes in five colours, grey, yellow, apricot, green and dark blue. $59 RRP.
19 Tapestry Grove, Silverstream, Upper Hutt 5019 p 04 528 9699 e info@aven.co.nz www.aven.co.nz All rethreading including lengthening & shortening Extensive range of clasps Pearl drilling CUDWORTH COM AU NZ Distributer helen@ fabuleux vous.com HELEN: +6 4 274 203 137 Importers and wholesalers of premium Gold, Platinum and Sterling Silver
$150.00 each for Standard Business Card size advertisement $400.00 for 4 issues (1 year) $300.00 each for Double Standard Business Card size advertisement $800.00 for 4 issues (1 year) Contact: Debbie Whiting, Jewellery Time, PO Box 46 218 Herne Bay Auckland. Phone 09 - 378 1222 – www.jewellerytime.co.nz Email: inklink@xtra.co.nz
Contact Julie on 09-478 9950 or info@nzfindings.co.nz www.nzfindings.co.nz
Clocks range from traditional to contemporary, Collectables to Grandfathers.
Pronto Clock Company Ltd Ph 07 880 9795 info@prontoclocks.co.nz
GEMS for Design Work & Trade repairs. Sourcing of Gems from the cutters. Hand Engraving, Setting, Sizing, trade repairs. Prompt Turn around of your Jobs.
Richard 021670145, Argosy 03 3669332 141 Holly Rd, Christchurch 8014 argosy.jewellery@gmail.com argosyjewellery.co.nz
Jewellery retail & Manufacturing Business for sale Hokitika
Expressions of interest in the first instance shop@thegoldroom.co.nz Barry Rooney 03 755 8362
Carl Yung Gems Ltd
Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds, Diamonds & Semi-Precious Stones & Jewellery
Fast & Reliable Cutting Services Available. P O Box 109380, Newmarket, Auckland. Ph: 09-623 2078 Email: info@carlyung.com
$150.00 each for Standard Business Card size advertisement $400.00 for 4 issues (1 year) $300.00 each for Double Standard Business Card size advertisement $800.00 for 4 issues (1 year)
Contact: Debbie Whiting, Jewellery Time, PO Box 46 218 Herne Bay Auckland. Phone 09 - 378 1222 – www.jewellerytime.co.nz Email: inklink@xtra.co.nz
The crew at Jewellery Time would like to thank our loyal advertisers and contributors. Thirty years plus behind us now and with good support from our industry.
2025 Autumn Booking and Editorial: February 10, Ad Material: February 17, Magazine Posted: February 24
Future deadlines:
2025 Winter Booking and Editorial: May 2, Ad Material: May 9, Magazine Posted: May 16
2025 Spring Trade Fair Special Booking and Editorial: August 1, Ad Material: August 7, Magazine Posted: August 14
2025 Summer Booking and Editorial: November 5, Ad Material: November 12, Magazine Posted: November 19
Give us a call to discuss how we can help. Any support the trade can give us is welcomed. If you have an advertisement, new products to promote, or an editorial feature suggestion, please get in touch.
Debbie Whiting (advertising) and Debra Douglas (editorial) inklink@xtra.co.nz chaucer@xtra.co.nz
Quasar