JT Autumn 2025 WEB

2025 AUTUMN

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Publisher/Advertising Editor

Debbie Whiting Debra Douglas Mobile: 0274 777 955 Mobile: 021 185 6846 inklink@xtra.co.nz chaucer@xtra.co.nz www.jewellerytime.co.nz

Jewellers & Watchmakers

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Executive Secretary: Craig Anderson, Phone +64 (0)21 596 988 info@jwnz.co.nz, www.jwnz.co.nz

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Jewellery Time is the official magazine of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

InkLink Publications Ltd. publishes Jewellery Time on behalf of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated reserves the right at any time and without notice or liability to any party cancel, omit or alter any editorial or advertisement and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and the publisher for all damages or liabilities arising from the published material.

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Reproduction rights in part or full of the contents of this magazine must be obtained with the permission of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and or the publisher.

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The views and opinions expressed in this magazine are purely those of the authors and are not necessarily the official views of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated nor those of the publisher.

UPCOMING JT DEADLINES

WINTER 2025

BOOKING, EDITORIAL & NEW PRODUCTS: MAY 2

ADVERTISING MATERIAL: MAY 9

MAGAZINE POSTED: MAY 16

SPRING 2025 TRADE FAIR SPECIAL BOOKING, EDITORIAL & NEW PRODUCTS: AUGUST 1

ADVERTISING MATERIAL: AUGUST 7

MAGAZINE POSTED: AUGUST 14

SUMMER 2025

BOOKING, EDITORIAL & NEW PRODUCTS: NOVEMBER 5

ADVERTISING MATERIAL: NOVEMBER 12

MAGAZINE POSTED: NOVEMBER 19

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TALKBACK

Introducing Claire Hirson, 2024 JIRBNZ Apprentice of the Year …

Where do you live? I live in Petone, Lower Hutt.

When did you first take an interest in the jewellery trade? And what happened next? Back in 2011, after finishing school, the idea of becoming a manufacturing jeweller first caught my interest. At the time, though, I had no idea how to break into the industry, so I set it aside and went to university instead. After trying a few different paths, I realised that university wasn’t the right fit for me. I decided to take a break and go travelling and it was during that time that the idea of becoming a manufacturing jeweller resurfaced.

While living in South Africa, I found a one-day jewellery-making course, decided to give it a try, and immediately fell in love with the craft. That experience inspired me to enrol in an arts school in Cape Town, where I studied jewellery design. That year was incredibly formative and gave me a strong foundation to build on. In 2019, I moved back to New Zealand and in 2020, I relocated to Wellington. The following year I began my apprenticeship and officially started my journey in the jewellery industry. You completed your apprenticeship working where? Sherringtons Manufacturing Jewellers, Lower Hutt. Sherringtons specialises in trade work, however, they also have a retail side and do some CAD work, along with a few handmakes.

Preferred type of jewellery to design and why? I naturally gravitate toward designing and creating earrings, as I’ve always had a deep appreciation for them. To me, earrings are a powerful expression of personal style, a bold yet intimate way to make a statement and showcase individuality.

Inspiration comes from where? My inspiration doesn’t come from one single source, but is deeply rooted in my connection to the culture and the experiences that shaped my upbringing. Growing up, my family’s movement through Africa had a profound impact

on me, influencing both who I am and how I express myself as a jeweller. The textures and shapes of the landscapes, along with the raw, imperfect beauty of the African landscape, have left a lasting impression on my creative vision. Who do you work beside? Over the past few years, I’ve been fortunate to work alongside some incredibly skilled jewellers. I’ve had the privilege of learning from four senior jewellers, each with years of experience and expertise in their own specialised areas. What is the best advice you have ever received? One of the most valuable pieces of advice I’ve received during my apprenticeship is not to let frustration take over. When something feels unusually difficult or isn’t going as planned, it’s best to step away, focus on something else and return to it later with fresh eyes.

What are some of your favourite jewellery trends right now? I’m thrilled to see more freeform-cut stones becoming available. I absolutely love working with them, so it’s exciting to see their growing presence in the market. I’m also enjoying the creativity behind some of the new and unconventional diamond shapes appearing lately. For example, catshaped diamonds (lab-grown), which, while not something I’d incorporate into my current work, are such a fun and playful twist on a classic material. What are the most important skills a jeweller should have? I believe temperament plays a significant role.

While it doesn’t necessarily reflect your ability or potential for success, the ability to stay calm and composed when things go wrong is a valuable strength. Being adaptable and open to learning from mistakes is equally important, it lays a strong foundation for continuous growth and improvement.

How do you relax away from the bench? I often spend my free time at the gym, walking along Petone Beach with my husband, or catching up with friends. I also love drawing and exploring my creative side.

Two things that top your bucket list? I have a deep love for travel. Doing an overland trip through Africa and embarking on a surf adventure in Mexico/South America.

Goals for 2025? 2025 is shaping up to be a significant year for my husband and I, beginning with a move across the ditch. My main goal for this year is to establish a small home studio and grow my business. I’m hopeful that this will allow me to get my jewellery into more stores and make my work more visible and accessible.

Claire Hirson

Crafted in 9ct yellow gold, this bespoke ring features a striking central teal tourmaline accented by diamonds. “Designed to be a little unconventional, it balances its bold character with an undeniable beauty.”

Crafted in 18ct yellow gold, Claire’s Topaz Dreamer earrings feature freeform London blue topaz stones. The soft organic shapes of the topaz are paired with bold structural gold bars and rub-over settings.

Long live the Craft.

At BECKS, we provide everything jewellers need to create and sell with confidence.

We manufacture and supply a full range of products for the manufacturing jeweller including; carated Gold, Silver, Platinum and Palladium alloys in several forms including Standard Gauge Wire, Casting and Fabricating Granules, Wires, Sheets, Solders and Master Alloys.

Providing the finest quality foundation for excellence, we’re here to support your craft.

Contact our Client Service Manager

Mary-Louise Squire

M. +64 21 287 5586

E. MaryLouiseSquire@becksgroup.au

Precious Metals Services Australia

Toll Free. 0800 443 991

M. +61 422 684 776 preciousmetals@becksgroup.au becksgroup.au

TIME FOR A STAR

Oris, the Hölstein, Switzerland based watchmaker, has collaborated with Miss Piggy of ‘The Muppets’ to unveil the ProPilot X Miss Piggy Edition

Arriving in a 34mm multi-piece stainless steel case, the timepiece spotlights a hot pink dial with tonal indices. A single baguette diamond is placed at 12 o’clock, adding a touch of glamour that echoes the steel handset. “On the mirror-polished case back, there’s a small opening, a spyhole that reveals a picture of a coy, demure Miss Piggy on the lilac rotor, which appears and disappears as the rotor rotates.” $US$3,200.

TO HAVE AND TO HOLD

“We’re very excited to be working with ‘vous,’ Miss Piggy, the world’s most fabulous pig. Like you, we’re optimistic about the future, and we want to have some fun getting there. Life’s too short not to have big dreams and to enjoy yourself. We made this watch for independent, stylish, and above all, fabulous individuals and we couldn’t think of a better collaborator than you, a global icon, to be the star of the project,” said Rolf Studer, Oris Co-CEO.

Theo Fennell celebrates 2025, the Chinese Year of the Snake, with a simple, handmade 18ct gold snake necklace; its fangs act as the clasp to be worn at any length.

Sterling silver marmite lid 500gm. ‘Love it or hate it’. Theo Fennell’s quirky silver sleeves and lids combine wit, quality and unique design. The perfect gift at £300.

Or another perfect gift from Theo Fennell, at £14,950. A citrine and diamond champagne brooch in 18ct white gold.

Sell With Us

Webb's Fine Jewels, Watches & Luxury Accessories department is seeking entries for upcoming auctions.

Luxury accessories and handbags from the likes of Hermès, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Bottega Veneta, and Gucci are immensely desirable and consistently command high prices at auction.

Current jewellery trends call for period pieces from the Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco eras, as well as exquisite modern and contemporary examples. Rings, bracelets, earrings and pendants are particularly coveted, as exemplified by the recent sale of a platinum, handmade 3.03ct solitaire diamond ring for $40,630 (including buyer's premium).

Quality timepieces from Swiss manufacturers are highly prized, including vintage, antique and gold pocket watches. Brands sought include Patek Philippe, Rolex, OMEGA, Cartier, Audemars Piguet and Tag Heuer, to name a few.

These auctions showcase premium items of exceptional provenance, as well as pieces for everyday wear—all the way from rare collectibles to timeless essentials. Contact us today or refer a client for a complimentary appraisal. We would love to hear from you.

Christine Power Head of Fine Jewels, Watches & Luxury

TIME TO THRIVE

Nationwide Jewellers has announced the theme for its 2025 members’ conference: Time to Thrive. Set to take place on the Gold Coast from 4th to 7th April, the event is set to equip jewellery retailers with strategies and tools to capitalise on the expected economic recovery in 2025 and beyond.

Glen Pocklington, Nationwide’s General Manager, explains the rationale behind the theme: “In selecting our theme, we recognised the importance for members to prepare their businesses for the anticipated recovery of the economy in 2025. Having navigated through years of reduced consumer spending on discretionary goods, it is imperative that jewellery retailers implement strategies to thrive and capture market share in 2025 and 2026.”

The conference programme has

been designed to provide members with actionable insights and innovative tools to drive sales growth. Key areas of focus include:

• Custom design jewellery: Meeting the demand for personalised and bespoke pieces.

• Bridal jewellery: Capturing the wedding market.

• Repair sales: Enhancing aftercare and repair services for customer retention.

Workshops will feature handson sessions to enhance members' skills in digital marketing, including topics such as using Canva to create customised content. Attendees will also gain insights into Nationwide’s latest instore digital marketing project, which promises to attract more customers and effectively communicate services and products to passersby.

As part of the Nationwide member

A SUCCESSFUL VICENZAORO JANUARY

In another successful year of the global jewellery show, VicenzaOro, more than 1,300 brands attended, with an increase in international attendance and buyers from 145 countries.

Foreign visitation, greater than that of Italians, reached the participation number of 145 countries, with Turkey, the United States, Germany, Spain and Greece in the lead and a notable

increase of interest from countries such as North Korea and Australia.

Corrado Peraboni, CEO of Italian Exhibition Group (IEG), said: “We have won the internationality challenge. Several years ago, we decided to develop our leading products abroad. A successful strategy that has decisively increased foreign visitation at our most important events in Italy.”

rewards programme, the conference package, valued at $2,400, is offered free to all reward-level members. The package includes:

• Three nights’ accommodation at The Star Gold Coast.

• Access to the full conference programme, including speakers and workshops.

• Food and beverages.

• Conference dinner.

• Airport transfers.

Adding a touch of glamour and fun, this year’s conference dinner theme is Denim & Diamonds. Members are encouraged to start planning their outfits for what promises to be a memorable evening of networking and celebration. Another highlight of the conference will be the announcement of the destination and itinerary for Nationwide’s 2026 overseas trip.

IEG’s agenda will see Oroarezzo in May, SIJE in Singapore in July, Vicenzaoro in September and the return of VO’Clock Privé, followed by the new Vicenza Symposium, the Valenza Gem Forum in October, JGTD in Dubai in November and the Italian Jewellery Summit in Arezzo in December.

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia

Contact: Helen Finlayson - The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia

Contact: Helen Finlayson - The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

LAB-GROWN DIAMOND MARKETING IS HURTING INDUSTRY

Marketing strategies adopted during the mass launch of laboratory-grown diamond jewellery have had a negative impact on consumer confidence in jewellery in general, the results of which are being seen today, Gaetano Cavalieri, President of the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), told the opening session of the Global Gems and Jewellery Development Conference, in Hainan, China, in December.

“The items we sell do not necessarily have inherent value, such is the nature of luxury products,” Dr. Cavalieri remarked in his keynote address to the large audience attending the opening session. “They have perceived value, created by the brands, and through cultural and historic associations. If the consumer loses confidence in our products, then their value is discounted. Without consumer confidence, a diamond, a ruby, an emerald or an exquisite piece of jade is simply a colourful stone.

RECREATING CRYSTALS

“And this is not because there anything wrong with either natural diamonds or laboratory-grown diamonds," he said. "It has more to do with the business strategies and the polarising marketing approaches that were adopted. The early decision to benchmark laboratory-grown diamond prices against the price of natural diamonds, which, while maybe serving the short-term interest of laboratorygrown diamond producers, proved to be a critical error over the longer term.

“It should aways have been apparent that the economic principles governing a natural product, where there is always a finite production ceiling, was different to that of a manufactured product, where there is no production ceiling, and where we inevitably would see a sharp reduction in production overheads as economies of scale were reached,” he explained.

“So, when decisions were made to conflate the two, and then worse, to differentiate the products by making

Swarovski has launched Swarovski ReCreated Crystals, an innovation in crystal creation made with sustainability in mind. The crystals are made with breakage from Swarovski’s crystal manufacturing process that are then remelted, transforming them into consistent new colours and creating crystals of the same quality as the initial product.

According to the company. this innovation allows Swarovski to use at least 40% fewer natural resources than for its standard crystals, reducing the environmental footprint of ReCreated Crystals by a minimum of 34%.

ReCreated crystals are part of Swarovski’s B2B business and are also being integrated into many of the brand’s B2C jewellery collections, as one of its steps to make all its products more sustainable. As masters of colour for almost 130 years, Swarovski will launch new ReCreated Crystals hues every year, adding to the existing Jet Black and Ice Blue colours.

negative marketing claims about the other, consumer confidence in both categories was undermined.

“Both the natural diamond sector and the laboratory diamond sector need to disengage and go back to their drawing boards,” the CIBJO President concluded. “Each needs to clearly brand its product in a realistic and positive way so that consumer confidence will be restored.”

HIGH-END HOROLOGY

Billionaire Mark Zuckerberg made the news recently not only for his decision to end fact-checking on Facebook and other Meta social media platforms, but also for the nearly US million-dollar watch adorning his wrist when he made that announcement publicly.

Swiss watchmaker Greubel Forsey produces only two or three of these timepieces annually. Assembled entirely by hand, each Hand Made 1 takes approximately 6,000 hours to create. The watch’s design is characterized by intricate mechanics and luxurious materials, reflecting the pinnacle of horological artistry.

Greubel Forsey’s Hand Made 1 watch in white gold.

CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri addressing the 2024 Global Gems & Jewellery Development Conference.

Increase Your Repair Revenue Today!

In the world of fine jewellery, offering exceptional after-sales service is crucial to building trust and loyalty with your customers.

At Jewellery Services, we specialise in providing retailers with professional jewellery repair and service support, ensuring your clients receive impeccable care for their treasured pieces.

From intricate ring resizing to detailed gemstone replacement, our skilled artisans use state-ofthe-art techniques and tools to restore jewellery to its original brilliance.

Partnering with us means your business can confidently deliver unmatched craftsmanship and timely service to every customer.

DIAMOND WATER FEATURE

Boucheron’s creative director Claire Choisne dedicates her new Carte Blanche collection to water ‘OR BLEU’. Inspired by the powerful waters and waterfalls of Iceland, Boucheron has created 26 high jewellery creations that pay homage to water’s beauty. Part of the collection is a 148cm creation in white gold and pavé diamonds, the longest ever made by the Boucheron workshops. ‘Cascade’ offers even more surprises by transforming into a shorter necklace, from which a pair of earrings can be detached. A real challenge of precision and patience 1816 diamonds of different sizes were set on the ‘Cascade’. The meticulous mesh work gives the piece its extreme suppleness and adds to its striking realism.

A COLLECTION WORTHY OF LEGENDS

Worth & Douglas is the approved license holders for The One Ring™ and the official licensed jewellery from The Lord of the Rings, The Hobbit and the latest fantasy film, The War of the Rohirrim.

Inspired by The Lord of the Rings: The War of the Rohirrim, this official jewellery collection brings the legendary might of Rohan king, Helm Hammerhand, to life. Crafted with intricate detail, these pieces pay tribute to the warriors, kings and battles that shaped Middle Earth.

TUNE IN WITH TIMEX

Timex has reissued its 1983 E-Line model, using three hot trends, affordable automatics, retro styling and square-shaped watches. Inspired by New York City in the 1980s, it features a rounded square case measuring 34mm that resembles a vintage television, hence the nickname ‘TV Dial’.

Realised in stainless steel with a brushed finish, its vintage-style acrylic crystal protects the sleek silver dial.

WITH THE CHARM OF A BYGONE ERA

A rare square 37ct Colombian emerald brooch owned by the Aga Khan fetched nearly US$9 million at a Christies auction in Geneva, making it the world's most expensive green stone.

Commissioned by Prince Aga Khan at Cartier Paris in 1960, the brooch was originally a gift for his wife, Nina Dyer. Upon her death, the brooch ended up at Christie’s inaugural Magnificent Jewellery sale in Geneva in May 1969, where it sold for US$75,000. A few years after the auction, the brooch passed through the hands of both Van Cleef & Arpels and Harry Winston, who each subsequently sold it.

The brooch was offered for sale again late last year with an estimate of US$$6,000,000-$8,000,000.

The Aga Khan Emerald. A Cartier emerald and diamond brooch, 1960. Squareshaped emerald of 37cts, marquise-shaped diamonds, platinum and 18ct yellow gold. 4.9 cm high.

Three thousand hours of work went into this Boucheron necklace.

For more than 90 years, Morris and Watson has been a proud family business dedicated to providing high-quality precious metals, while offering exceptional service and friendly staff. Our extensive range includes fine gold, silver, platinum and palladium, available in castings, fabricated metals and investmentgrade bullion. With tested craftmanship and a passion for excellence, we strive for precision and reliability in every piece. Whether you are a jeweller, a manufacturer or an investor, Morris and Watson is your trusted partner in precious metals.

A TRIBUTE ACT

Jaquet Droz has revealed its latest in a series of unique pieces that pay tribute to the Rolling Stones. The new watch is dedicated to the 1978 album Some Girls.

The watch has a 43mm red gold case and tiny gold instruments below the time-telling dial. Fans can see Ronnie Wood’s Fender Stratocaster, Charlie Watts’s drums and Keith Richard’s famous five-string guitar with one string removed. There is even a tiny gold harmonica next to Mick Jagger’s microphone.

As well as the reproduction of the album’s pop art images, the party piece is the automaton. With a push of the crown the outer disc performs one full rotation, which takes around 30 seconds, while the Rolling Stones tongue at 8 o’clock waggles from side to side.

TITANIC SALE

A gold pocket watch has reportedly become the most expensive piece of Titanic memorabilia ever sold. Tiffany & Co. bought the watch for US$1.97 million at Henry Aldridge and Son Ltd auction house in the UK.

The 18ct Tiffany & Co. watch was presented to Arthur H. Rostron, captain of the R.M.S. Carpathia, in 1912. The Carpathia came to the aid of the stricken Titanic, rescuing almost 700 passengers. Among them were three women: Madeleine Talmage Astor; Marian Longstreth Thayer; and Eleanor

Elkins Widener. They bought the gold watch as a gesture of thanks to Capt Rostron.

The watch is engraved with the inscription: “Presented to Captain Rostron with the heartfelt gratitude and

appreciation of three survivors of the Titanic April 15th 1912, Mrs. John B. Thayer, Mrs. John Jacob Astor and Mrs. George D. Widener”. On the back it has the enamelled monogram ‘AHR’, the captain’s initials.

MALABAR GOLD & DIAMONDS TO ENTER THE NZ MARKET

Malabar Gold & Diamonds, the world’s 6th largest jewellery retailer with more than 375 showrooms across 13 countries, is set to expand its footprint into New Zealand. This strategic move is aligned with the Comprehensive Economic Partnership Agreement (CEPA) signed between the United Arab Emirates and New Zealand, which fosters increased trade and economic collaboration between the two nations.

Malabar Gold & Diamonds, established in 1993, is the flagship company of Malabar Group, a leading diversified Indian business conglomerate.

“As a globally recognised jewellery

retailer managing its international operations from the UAE, the Comprehensive Economic Partnership Agreement (CEPA) between the UAE and New Zealand significantly bolsters our efforts to enter this new market,” said M.P Ahammed, Chairman of Malabar Group.

“This agreement not only allows us to strengthen economic ties, but also provides us with an opportunity to introduce our products and services to a whole new audience. By capitalising on the opportunities presented by this bilateral trade agreement, Malabar Gold & Diamonds marks a significant milestone in our overarching vision

ONE OF A KIND

to become the world’s number one jewellery retailer.”

In the initial phase of its expansion into New Zealand, the company will invest NZ$75 million to establish its presence in the region. This investment will see the launch of three world-class showrooms. In addition to introducing its signature collections & services.

Malabar Gold & Diamonds will continue its commitment to sustainability and ethical practices. The new showrooms will adhere to the brand’s globally recognised standards of ethical sourcing, eco-friendly processes and social welfare initiatives.

Stenzhorn, a family-run luxury German jeweller, has made art out of its floral-inspired oneof-a-kind necklaces that it unveils yearly. Though each necklace is unique, these annual incarnations of the jeweller's highest expression all bear hallmark similarities. They feature just two different gemstones offering a two-tone composition, are constructed using advanced techniques, and, most importantly, they each tell a story.

The latest La Moselle necklace and theme are very close to founder Klaus Stenzhorn's heart, who was born in this picture-perfect region of southwestern Germany. Here, the Moselle River meanders through deep, verdant valleys, overlooked by fairy-tale castles and mediaeval villages that epitomise the charm of Old Europe.

Diamonds and rubies are the two gemstones used to create this narrative. Diamonds are set into the white gold links of a flexible necklace tapered to sit on the neckline perfectly. The vine leaves are paved in white diamonds and the marquis and brilliant cut diamonds make up the stamen and pistils at the heart of the dazzling roses. The effect of curved petals is achieved using the invisible setting technique. Each ruby is selected for a perfect colour match and then individually cut to slide onto the gold framework. The framework is invisible as the rubies are seamlessly positioned alongside each other with no gold on show.

RACING FANS, START YOUR ENGINES!

TAG Heuer is back on the grid with a new chronograph. The TAG Heuer Formula 1 Chronograph x Oracle Red Bull Racing pays tribute to 20 years of high-speed racing and innovation at Oracle Red Bull Racing. This limited-edition TAG Heuer Formula 1 chronograph is ready to take pole position in the collection.

TAG Heuer introduces a bold new look through a black DLCcoated case. It is paired with an asphalt-textured dial in the Oracle Red Bull Racing blue, bringing the racetrack to life on the wrist. The Oracle Red Bull Racing’s logo appears between 7 and 10 o’clock – another first in this collaboration between the two partners.

The caseback continues the celebration of Oracle Red Bull Racing. Engraved with the 20th season and Team logos, it serves as a reminder of the journey of Oracle Red Bull Racing over the past two decades.

FUSING GREEK HERITAGE WITH MODERN LUXURY

London-based Antiquarian’s latest high jewellery collection, Melancholic Karyatides, is a testament to the brand’s commitment to blending ancient Mediterranean influences with contemporary craftsmanship. Drawing inspiration from Greek antiquity, this new collection brings the iconic Karyatides of the Acropolis into the realm of modern luxury jewellery.

The Melancholic Karyatides collection takes inspiration from the six female Karyatides columns that once supported the Erechtheion temple at the Acropolis. These architectural

WELL, SOMEONE MUST HAVE LOVED IT

From Sotheby’s auction titled ‘The Doros Collection: The Art Glass of Louis Comfort Tiffany Volume IV: Tiffany’s Travel and Exploration’, circa 1907, the 18ct gold, platinum, opal and enamel pendant imprinted Tiffany & Co. was estimated to sell for US$25,000; it garnered US$168,000.

figures, known for their elegance and strength, serve as the foundation for a collection that celebrates the intersection of history, art, and modern luxury.

Crafted from 18ct white gold, the earrings mirror the intricate braids and hair bands of the Karyatides’ hairstyles. The flowing gold forms are accented with alternating baguette-cut blue sapphires, onyx and diamonds, while pear-cut emerald cabochons dangle at the ends, symbolising the draped locks of the ancient figures.

The collection also features a

standout cocktail ring. Here, the interwoven braids of the Karyatides’ hair are recreated in precise 18ct gold curves, with alternating blue sapphires and onyx adding depth and contrast. Adorned with gemstones the ring’s centre piece, a naturally curved gold spike, marks the middle parting of the hairstyle, to enhance its visual appeal. Between the braided elements, emeralds, sapphires, and black diamonds fill the spaces.

The six Karyatides columns of the ancient Erechtheion at the Acropolis, whose grace and strength inspired Antiquarian’s latest

A

UNIVERSAL SENSE OF STYLE

“Movement has shaped my design vision,” says Sebastian Plah, Creative Director of the emerging Milan brand Plah, co-founded with Nicholas Lee Hamilton. “Our work reflects the beauty of the world around us.”

The brand’s first two collections, A Performance of the Soul and Ethereal Rhythms, stand out for their extrovert and dynamic shapes interpreted in vibrant colours. 3D-printed anodized titanium, 18ct gold, and diamonds dance together in a Caribbean rhythm.

jewellery collection.

Paradise Bloom earrings in anodized titanium, pink gold and diamonds.

Guacamaya earrings 18ct gold, anodized titanium and natural ldiamonds.

ninasjewellerywholesale.com.au

A new range of Argyle pink & blue diamond jewellery, from one of the original Argyle Pink Diamond Select Ateliers™. All Rosé products are made with official Argyle pink and blue diamonds.

TOWN AND AROUND

Meet jewellers and business partners Michael Walsh and Simon Bath of B&W Manufacturing Ltd, Invercargill. As told by Michael Walsh …

Tell us about your background in the jewellery industry, when and where did it all begin? Seems like such a long time ago… but Simon started working at the Riverton Paua factory in the late 80s, as an after-school job. Grinding paua shells and the odd finger was his first introduction to the jewellery trade. He then secured a job at Paul's Jewellery in Invercargill, where he worked for Paul Owen and started to get into all aspects of jewellery manufacture. He worked for Paul for four years before leaving and working at Argosy Jewellery, Christchurch, for a few years, which led him to opening his own shop Visare near the city’s art centre. Family matters bought him back to Invercargill in 2000, where he went back to work for Paul Owen.

My introduction to the jewellery trade was through a very good high school friend of mine, Tony Partridge, who had worked for several years in Australia and NZ learning the trade.

He showed me the basic skills I needed to get into the trade myself and I was eventually given a full-time job at Paul's Jewellery in 1995. So, I was working for Paul when Simon Bath returned from Christchurch and we developed a great friendship working together for the next five years.

We are very thankful to Paul Owen for being so open to employing young workers.

What led up to you opening B&W Manufacturing? B&W Manufacturing was opened in 2005 when Paul's Jewellery was being restructured.

We saw an opportunity to try to work for ourselves, so B&W Manufacturing was formed.

For the next 15 years we worked, mainly wholesale, from my house in a workshop 3m X 6m!

It was a tight squeeze and in 2019 we moved to our now retail / workshop site.

INVERCARGILL

From left, Mike Walsh, Jasmine Carey, Simon Bath and Brendan Spark.

Opal diamond ring.

Who do you work beside? And their role in the business? Simon is the main pattern maker and stone setter in the business. I tend to try to keep the repairs off his bench, but also make whenever I get the time.

We have Brendon Sparks (who also once worked for Paul Owen) at the bench doing a wide range of repairs and makes, but he also has a keen interest in lapidary, so he can cut and facet/polish gemstones for us as well.

Jasmine Carey, (my partner of 30yrs), does all that pesky bookkeeping that keeps us away from the work we need to do. She looks after all the stock and the retail shop side and keeps us all on track. Last, but by no means least, is Rebecca Sparks (Brendon's wife), who comes in and cleans our workspace and we all know how important that is. We are all expected to serve clients.

Describe your work and retail space…

Our intention was, when setting up our retail/workshop space in 2019, to showcase the most important thing in the jewellery shop...the Jeweller! So we set up benches in the shop so clients see us working and can interact with us.

The retail side was a secondary part to us, so we just put in a couple of showcases to display our work.

We ended up in an old house which we had to put steel bars over all the windows; we have been told it has the feel of an old Central Otago bank from the gold mining days.

What services does your business provide and do you specialise in a certain area? We provide all types of jewellery repairs and a custom manufacturing service.

We can also cut and polish some

gemstones. We offer remodelling and restoration of clients’ older pieces. We also have a range of more unique, oneoff pieces of jewellery in store.

How have your customers’ tastes in design and materials changed over the years? I have definitely noticed an absence of princess cut diamonds, thank goodness, a setter’s nightmare. But diamonds are always popular. There's a lot more interest in coloured stones, which is great, there is always someone looking for a different gem.

We do a lot more work in platinum, which was once unaffordable, but now is quite competitive compared to white golds.

With your designer hat on … your creations are inspired by? We like the stones used in the jewellery pieces to be

Simon Bath.

Mike Walsh.

Citrine rings: “The client wanted to split one stone between two people, so we decided to cut it in halves. Brendon cut and repolished the halves, then Simon mounted them in different directions to give them a point of difference.”

the inspiration behind the designs. We like the stone to be the star and our mounting of it to be understated if possible.

For clients we will try to personalise the piece with birthstones, or other relevant embellishments that may suit the story wanting to be told.

What are your current best-selling pieces? For example, what was popular for Christmas gift giving? Due to the extremely high costs of gold at the moment, it was a struggle for us to sell new pieces. We were, however, very busy with clients bringing in their own gold jewellery to be remade into something new.

What are the most important skills for someone in the trade to have? The most important skills for a manufacturing jeweller would be mainly patience and perseverance. An ability to be calm under duress and a good sense of humour (so you can laugh and not cry) when things start to melt or fall apart in front of your eyes.

If you could go back and tell yourself one thing before beginning your career, what would it be? Buckle up and hold on matey! Being a manufacturing jeweller is a roller coaster of emotion.

From the giddy, exciting highs where a plan comes together and client is brought to tears, to the low where something goes wrong and again your client is bought to tears.

No day will be the same, no job will go as well as it did last time and you will never

know what's coming next. Tell us about two crucial milestone moments in your career… Opening B&W manufacturing in 2005 was a big deal for both of us.

We both had very young families and no money, but we gathered enough equipment to get started and built up from there. Fortunately, we gathered a good base of loyal local customers over those years which led us to the next big deal for us, moving to the retail space.

We had both been working in a tiny garage for 15 years and we were suddenly exposed to the whole city. We had managed to get enough money together to get the retail space up and running so it made sense to open it to the public. We had 12 months of good trading, then came the pandemic...

What keeps you motivated about the industry? There are several lifetimes of learning in the jewellery trade, so

much to try to get good at, let alone master. There is always some clever soul inventing a new metal or growing diamonds in a lab, to throw curve balls to keep any jeweller on their toes, so there's never a dull moment being a jeweller.

Helping people revitalise their old or inherited pieces so they can wear them again has a sense of satisfaction. There is also satisfaction in repairing a piece that the client has been told 'it can't be done' by someone else.

How do you relax away from the business? Simon is a bit of a motor head and likes anything motor sport. He also has another full-time job walking his four dogs. I also have a couple of dogs that Jaz and I like to take away in our camper bus. I also enjoy a lively jam on the guitar, usually washed down with several beers.

People pictures by Debbie Whiting.

Fire opal topaz diamond earrings.

Fire opal dress ring.

Vivienne Westwood and jewellery

This summer Te Papa, Wellington, became the first venue to kick off the global tour of Vivienne Westwood & Jewellery, a retrospective exhibition celebrating the iconic jewellery of renowned British fashion house Vivienne Westwood. The exhibition runs until 27 April, supported by a programme of events spanning jewellery, fashion, feminism, sustainability and music.

The spectacular exhibition was the first of its kind to come from Westwood and showcases an impressive collection of more than 550 pieces of jewellery and 15 complete ensembles and garments, spanning four decades.

Celebrated as the Greatest British Fashion Designer, the late Dame Vivienne Westwood’s (1941-2022) prolific career was acknowledged in 2004 with a retrospective at the Victoria & Albert Museum, London, the largest exhibition ever devoted to a living British jewellery and fashion designer.

“Vivienne Westwood was a disruptor, an activist and one of the most influential fashion designers of the 20th and 21st century”, said Courtney Johnston, Te Papa’s Chief Executive.

“She brought punk into mainstream fashion and jewellery and is acknowledged worldwide as a true icon of contemporary design. This is the first time these special archive and runway pieces have been curated and displayed as a collection and it’s an absolute honour for Te Papa to premiere this world class exhibition.

“It’s especially exciting that New Zealanders will be the first in the world to see this unique experience.”

Designed and curated by the house

of Vivienne Westwood and produced by Nomad Exhibitions, this touring exhibition dives into the extensive history of jewellery design and creation by the Vivienne Westwood house.

During her career, Westwood with a ‘magpie’ approach created bold and rebellious designs characterised by historical references, subversive styles and socio-political themes, all evident in this exhibition.

The story is told through a series of rooms, each meticulously curated with distinct decades of design, from punk Origins to fantasies of Wonderland, the ecological philosophy of Do It Yourself and an Exploration of Cultures. Visitors journey through time from the 1980, to the present day.

From the very beginning, Westwood’s journey has been intertwined with links to the craft, having sold jewellery from a stall in Portobello Road market, London, in the 1970s and later incorporating costume jewellery as statement pieces within catwalk collections.

“Jewellery plays an essential role in defining that iconic ‘Vivienne Westwood look’ and this new exhibition explores the design codes and subversive spirit of the British design house through this prism,” says the

Vivienne Westwood design team. Visitors experience eclectic pairings of jewellery and garments, each creation presented as an objets d’art, surrounded by a 'chaos’ of wall prints and sounds, catwalk looks, imagery, and video, recalling iconic past collections and runway shows, evoking the fashion house’s iconic style.

The exhibition will tour globally across Asia, Europe and the USA later this year.

Therese earrings. Spring Summer 2019. Photo by Mitchell Sams, 2019.

Therese earrings. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring Summer 2020. Photo by Philippe Lacombe, 2024.

Vivienne Westwood. Papier Mache Tiara. Gold Label Autumn Winter 2000-2001. Photo by Jo Metson Scott, 2008.

Original Orb from the Gold Label Collection, Autumn/Winter 1988–1989. Photo by Philippe Lacombe.

EXPLORE OUR NEW 9K & 18K GOLD CHAINS

Introducing our new range of heavy 9K & 18K gold chains. Up to 350 gauge curb now available.

A cut above…

The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards are the benchmark for design excellence in the world of coloured gemstones and cultured pearls. Each year, AGTA Spectrum & Cutting Edge Awards winners set the high bar for beauty and innovation, launch trends and earn world-wide recognition.

Trends among the 2024 entries included tourmaline, particularly paraíba and rubellite, as well as pink, purple, and orange gems; more finished jewels with fantasy-cut or carved gems as focal points (this occurred last year as well); oval gems; and moonstones in both loose goods in Cutting Edge entries and finished jewels in Spectrum.

Images: AGTA, Jeff Mason Photography.

t Best of Show Spectrum

Joseph Dardashti, Joseph Dardashti Ltd., in collaboration with Sophia D. Karmel: Platinum and 18ct yellow gold ‘Sophia D En Tremblant Butterfly’ brooch featuring emeralds, rubies, sapphires and diamonds.

Best of Show Cutting Edge u

John Dyer, John Dyer Gems: 33 ct. Rock Creek, Montana sapphire titled ‘The Montana Sun Sapphire’.

AGTA SPECTRUM AWARDS: WINNERS

t Best use of colour

Niveet Nagpal, Omi Gems, Inc: Platinum ring featuring a bi-colour emerald-cut tourmaline accented by spinel, demantoid garnets and diamonds.

Best use of pearls u Robin Callahan, Robin Callahan Designs, LLC: 14ct white gold ‘Helix’ cufflinks featuring two pairs of Keshi pearls with blue overtones accented by black diamonds.

t Best of single entries

Matthew Tuggle, Tuggle Designs: 18ct rose and yellow gold and platinum ‘Whisper of the Ancestors’ lapel pin featuring an 18.23 ct. fantasy-cut Sunstone accented by mixed teal tourmalines and diamonds.

Best bridal wear u

Christina Penuel, Mark Loren Designs: 14ct yellow gold earrings featuring Yangtze pearls accented by sapphires and amethyst.

AGTA CUTTING EDGE AWARDS. WINNERS

Open to any extraordinary cut gemstone featuring traditional gemstone cutting techniques.

t Carving

Open to any natural gem material carved in any style.

Patrick Dreher, Dreher Carvings LLC: ‘The Encounter’ carving featuring an 1105-gram agate geode with calcite and geothite, accented by onyx.

Innovative Faceting u

Open to any gemstone featuring innovative faceting and lapidary techniques.

Lee Haynes, LWH Gems: 54 ct. mixed-cut wave pavilion with nouveau deco crown aquamarine titled ‘Deco Nouveau’.

t Phenomenal Gemstones

Open to any phenomenal gemstone featuring an optical gemmological effect, such as asterism, chatoyance, play of colour, adularescence, or colour change.

Ruben Bindra, B & B Fine Gems: 10.15 ct. round cabochon Australian black opal.

Objects of Art u

Open to carvings, bowls, sculptures, intarsia, etc., of gem materials not intended to be worn. Objects may incorporate metal, wood or other non-gem materials as base, frame or decorative components.

Philip Louer, North American Gem Carvers, LLC, in collaboration with Nicolai Medvedev (designer & fabricator), Susan Helmich (gold work): ‘Blue Boy’ intarsia box featuring a 22ct gold carving of a sting ray accented by Australian opal, Virgin Valley opal, Maw Sit Sit (also known as jade-albite, a gemstone found exclusively in northern Burma), Nevada turquoise, gold in quartz, sugilite, malachite, dinosaur bone, diamonds and tourmalines.

Luxury afloat

Sarah Hutchings, director of Orsini Fine Jewellery, Parnell, Auckland, celebrated the Christmas season with a special event that combined a luxury yacht with Italian jewels.

Guests were invited aboard the super yacht Azimut Magellano moored at the Viaduct Harbour, where they admired models wearing Marco Bicego jewel pieces, while sipping on Perrier Jouet Grand Brut Champagne with canapes by top chef Anthony Price.

“From the feedback I received, guests were delighted by the evening,” said Sarah. “The luxury Italian yacht was a perfect backdrop for a luxury Italian jewel collection and everyone had a wonderful time.

“Marco Bicego’s jewellery has always

been known as 'Every day luxury'. Handcrafted in Vicenza, I have had the jewellery exclusively since 2009 and love all the pieces.”

Sarah says she is looking forward to introducing her own collection to clients this year. “After many years bringing in Italian jewellery, I realise I have my own distinct style. I am excited to bring my own collections to New Zealand.”

Marco Bicego Lunaria bangle in18ct gold. Marco Bicego Lunaria 18ct gold necklace.

Host Sarah Hutchings.

Azimut super yacht Magellano.

80 years at the jewellers bench

I began work at 13 years of age in 1943 as a message boy for Jones Jewellers at 278 High Street, Christchurch. That business was sold to Watsons Jewellers, who had a shop at 695 Colombo Street and I worked for them, also running messages until 1945 when Clarrie Hurrell, a manufacturing jeweller, returned from service in the Pacific and I began an apprenticeship with him.

At completion I set up my own workshop in a room rented from R. W. Sharp Ltd, in High Street and started making diamond rings for Noel Finney, a wholesaler who had a rehab licence to import diamonds. At this time Clements and Holmes ran a successful business in Wellington making and selling rings direct from the manufacturer to the public and in 1955 I decided to open a similar business in Christchurch, which was named Kennedys Diamond Rings.

The first showroom was above Fails Café near the Bridge of Remembrance and the stock consisted of 35 diamond rings. At the time there was licencing for diamond imports and I soon exhausted supplies from available sources, so I regularly purchased pawned rings from Westende Jewellers, to be dismantled and the stones reused in new rings. However, licencing was discontinued about 1957 when I travelled to Hatton Garden, London, to arrange a supply with Ginder and Co.

Ninety-five-year-old Kennedy Blair.

After a few months sales increased rapidly and the following year the business was transferred to 244 High Street when re it operated until 2006. As sales increased, additional tradesmen were employed. Seven were making rings, as well as four salesmen. Each diamond ring was given a serial number, with the first ring 1001 and the last entry in 2006 numbering 18943. There was a neon sign on the veranda reaching the height of two floors, shaped like a Toblerone bar with the name on the three sides. At its peak the company had seven outlets in the city and suburbs, four having been purchased from Mr Jamie Tulloch.

After the arrival of Michael Hill Jewellers in Christchurch in the late eighties, two of our stores were transferred to them, one in the Riccarton Mall and the other in the Linwood Mall.

In 2006 Kennedys ceased trading in the city centre and the several thousand customers on our mailing list were invited to our showroom in Peterborough Street, where an exclusive service was offered. There was a personal welcome at the door, coffee and cakes shared around the viewing of the rings, a bottle of good wine given after each purchase and following these, a thank you letter written in calligraphy and folded with a ribbon and a Kennedy seal.

A five-year after service and guarantee was given with each purchase. A Christmas greeting was sent to every customer.

In 2024 there were still fourth generation customers turning up, but beginning 2025 it was decided to call it a day after 80 years at the bench.

- Kennedy Blair

• Kennedy has a collection of interesting precious stones for sale, which may be of interest to someone in the trade. Kennedy’s contact number is: 021 327 371.

THE UNEGGSPECTED SERIES

Hong Kong’s Wristcheck and British-based Indie Studio Underd0g joined forces to create three limited edition designs of Studio Underd0g’s third generation 01 Series.

All Studio Underd0g watches, which are assembled in Britain, are designed with some sort of food theme and this trio arrived with three egg-related textured dials: Boiled Egg (the colour of a hard-boiled egg’s yolk), Fried Egg (paler yellows, seemingly because the egg white is more involved) and Rotten Egg (with a green tinge).

Unveiled on social media at US$800 apiece, they sold out within hours.

Craving comfort?

Forget the peach fuzz, magenta and periwinkle blue of years past. The autumn of 2025 will be awash with Mocha Mousse (Pantone 17-1230), the Pantone Color Institute Color of the Year.

According to the Institute we are craving comfort. Mocha Mousse is a creamy, indulgent brown that radiates a sense of security and warmth with its suggestion of the delectable qualities of chocolate and coffee, a perfect combination of sophistication

and indulgence, while remaining unpretentious and approachable.

But how does Pantone’s 2025 Color of the Year translate to jewels? Think smoky quartz stones, diamonds of varying brown tones, agate with its dimensional layers and more …

For the first time ever, Pantone unveiled its colour of the year by lighting up the London Eye and the city’s skyline in Mocha Mousse.

18ct rose gold earring by Assael with Fijian pearls, Willow Creek jasper and lavender spinel.

Evil eye drop earring by Buddha Mama with hazel enamel and champagne diamonds in 20ct yellow gold.

Delicious Autumn colours…

A fabulous brooch/pendant from ESSE, crafted in sterling silver, featuring a large Smokey Quartz centre stone, surrounded by Swarovski marcasites (72-591). Elegant dress rings in rich golden Citrine (18-1077CIT) or earthy Smokey Quartz (18-1077SMKY) and for a touch of glamour, drop earrings set with cabochon carnelians and marcasites (43-266CN). Also availale in Blue Topaz, Garnet, Amethyst, Onyx and Green Agate.

18ct yellow gold 1.60ct oval cut brown diamond engagement ring, Levy’s Fine Jewelry.

Sorellina’s ‘Classic Guitar Pick’ earrings with tigers eye and diamonds in 14ct yellow gold.

A carved CCW Designs walnut collar is decorated with five diamonds and 14ct yellow gold.

‘Baby Vine Tendril’ ring featuring a drop -cut smoky quartz set in 9ct yellow gold and black enamel over silver by Bea Bongiascas.

Jade Ruzzon’s ‘Drum Head’ ring in 18ct yellow gold with champagne diamonds.

Jacque Aiche ring featuring oval rutilated quartz with a diamond row on each side.

The long and short of it …

Necklaces have existed ever since our ancestors began to walk upright. Often powerful symbols of faith, devotion, protection and self-expression, they can give assurance or even encourage a compliment.

Featured are works from local designers who have given necklines some love.

Sterling

-

silver and sapphire ‘Squid’ necklace.

- Belinda Lubkoll, Ringcraft Moana, Oakura, Taranaki

Art Deco-style necklace handmade in platinum and 18ct yellow gold. 1,52cts emerald cut aquamarine & 0.67cts of diamonds.

Lucas Ebbeke. Ebbeke & Co Jewellers, Auckland

‘Citrus’ - whale tooth/ivory, yellow gold and citrine. “This piece was firstly inspired by the citrus flowers I see in my own garden and secondly by the material itself. I have represented each stamen with a citrine cabochon set in yellow gold. On the underside, I have carved a lemon leaf supporting the flowers. This nature scene is carved from the tooth of a whale/ whale ivory. Strung on black woven cord for dramatic contrast and finished with a hand carved toggle also carved in whale ivory.”

- Steph Lusted, Jewellery & Objets d’Art, Wellington

-

-

‘Autumn Light’ … an amethyst, peridot, diamonds and pearl necklace.

Rob Wright, Ringcraft Moana, Oakura, Taranaki

Silver rainbow moonstone pendant.

B&W Manufacturing, Invercargill

“Eyris blue pearl in 18ct gold, Tahitian pearl, ruby, diamond, tourmaline, topaz and peridot.

Majestic colours from NZ’s ocean and a sense of wind, custom designed for a sailor.”

- Juerg P Muff, Orbit Gold, Queenstown

“A family I knew commissioned me to make a necklace for their daughter. She had received a parcel of large blue topaz from family in India for her future wedding. They asked me to incorporate the stones into a necklace and matching earrings for the bride to wear at her wedding. It had to be flower themed, in 18ct white gold with yellow gold ribs emanating from the centre of the flower. Between us we nutted out a design that met with their requirements and approval. The earrings were a bigger challenge because they, obliviously, had to be mirror image to each other.”

- Brian Barrett, BHB Designs Ltd, Wellington

“The client had three amethysts of different sizes and loved peridots too. We used cabochon peridots as a contrast to her faceted amethysts and reused some old gold jewellery to make this pendant.”

- Mieke van Dam, Mieke van Dam Jewellery, Nelson

“Named after Cupid’s golden arrow, the pendant features hand carved black jade carefully shaped to fit around the 18ct gold handmade ‘arrow’. A 0.34ct Floeting® Diamond sits seamlessly in its cupped base, free of any visible clasps or bezels and emphasising its hovering appearance.”

- The Village Goldsmith, Wellington

Nicolai gum leaf necklace in18ct gold, black opal, diamond & enamel.

“The first of three amazing necklaces for this client. She came in with the opal and said she wanted leaves in the necklace, so I drew leaves. She said they were the wrong sort of leaves, she wanted gum leaves, so I drew gum leaves. No: they had to be Nicolai gum leaves. I asked what are they like? She came back 30 minutes later with a large branch of them. I didn’t like to ask from where, but this necklace is the result!”

- Tony Williams, Tony Williams Goldsmith, Dunedin

“Crafted in 9ct yellow and white gold, The Sundisk is one of my earliest and most cherished designs. The central circular halo catches and reflects light, creating a radiant effect that brings the piece to life. This design is a playful exploration of the simple yet striking interplay between light and texture.”

- Claire Hirson, Sherrington Jewellers, Wellington

From Lionheart, its Starry Night brown mother-of-pearl and diamond medallion.

Annoushka Happy Charm necklace in 18ct yellow gold, silver diamonds and Freshwater pearls.

Theo Fennell 18ct 3 x row Fresh Water pearl necklace, with 18ct white & rose gold, a 2.52ct pink tourmaline centre, rose cut diamonds & 1.05ct pave diamond English Lace & Wild Rose Tryst.

The Autore Enchantress necklace in 18ct rose gold with 16.64cts of pink diamonds, 23.99 cts of white diamonds, a 2ct pear-shaped E colour, VVS clarity white diamond and 26 A-grade Autore South Sea Keshi pearls.

Stephen Webster Fly By Night Crystal Haze pendant in 18ct recycled white gold, black opalescent crystal haze and black diamond pavé.

Dior

Giovanni

Robert Guild’s Confluence necklace with fancy-cut gemstones including an 18.97ct platinum beryl, peridot, morganite, aquamarine, garnet and chrysoberyl, plus diamonds in 18ct white gold.

Christian

gold-finish metal chain with the CD signature and set with a small white crystal.

From

Raspini, Byzantine sterling silver and 18ct gold-plated sterling silver necklaces.

18ct rose gold, hand set with pink sapphires from Tiffany’s Lock collection.

Melbourne’s myriad of offerings

The fourth annual Jewellery Industry Fair in Melbourne solidified its place as a must-attend event for the jewellery trade, with visitor numbers soaring and attendee satisfaction reaching new heights.

Held at the Royal Exhibition Building in Carlton, a heritage-listed venue renowned for its breathtaking architecture, February’s fair welcomed almost 1,000 guests, double-digit growth from the previous year. The event, organised by the Jewellery Industry Network, continues to expand, cementing its reputation as a premier industry gathering.

The event received an impressive 8.9/10 satisfaction rating from attendees, reflecting the high calibre of exhibitors, networking opportunities and engaging content on offer. Among the event’s many highlights, visitors particularly enjoyed the exhibitor

booths and product ranges, with the talks and live manufacturing demonstrations also proving to be a major drawcard.

A new addition to the fair, a short venue tour, provided guests with a unique opportunity to appreciate the historical significance and stunning beauty of the Royal Exhibition Building. Built in 1879–1880, it is one of the world's oldest remaining exhibition pavilions and a Melbourne landmark. Beyond the event itself, attendees praised the sense of community and support fostered at the fair.

The Summer Social, sponsored by Palloys and Nivoda, offered industry

professionals a relaxed setting to connect, celebrate and build relationships. It also provided a setting for Melbourne Polytechnic to celebrate its student graduates from the year.

Laura Moore, Event Organiser, shares her enthusiasm for the event’s continued growth:

"It’s so wonderful to hear guests report how welcome and supported they feel at our Fair, and that’s what we aim to provide, a space for all areas of the industry to meet, do business, and really work together for the betterment of all involved."

People/Exhibitor pictures by Debbie Whiting.

Jodi Molloy, Jennifer Sher, Darren Sher, Chemgold.

Paul Whittaker, Tasia Vasos, Grant Hamid and Susan, Hamid Bros.

Kaizad Dhamodiwala, Chirag Jogani, Deep Satra, Twisa Satra, BLUMOON.

Harsh Goswami. & Falak Sheth, Maiora Diamonds.

Renee Siros, Bolton Gems.

Tatiana Avdeeva, Eastern Pearl.

Carlie, Carl and Carson Yung, Carl Yung Gems.

Nicole McBurney, Patrick Thiess & Adam Van Sambeek, Morris & Watson.

Susi Chinnery-Brown, John Michaelis and Cheryl Mackay, A M Imports.

Thomas, Irene and Arthur Papagrigoriou, Athan.

Neil Watson, Watson’s Jewellers, Nicola Adams, Anthony Enriquez, Showcase Jewellery Group.

David Paterson, Paterson’s Fine Jewellery.

Philip Edwards and Mark Hatton Duraflex.

Anup Bhargva, Bosco Choi, Melanie Mitchell, Stuart Collins, Mitul Mehta, UNISON Jewellery.

Wade Burbidge, Jack Bonfa, Jesse Blake, Ange Cristiani, JC Jewels.

In 2004 the Royal Exhibition Centre became the first building in Australia to be awarded UNESCO World Heritage status.

Melinda Carey, Danny Dawson & John Rose West End Collection.

Phillippe Poix & Craig Troy, Poix & Troy.

Mario Andreou, Shivangi Modi, Krysta Ryan, Catherine Seth, NINA’s Jewellery.

Jessica Gonzales Cabrera, Desmond Ambagtsheer, Mary Louise Squire, Jennifer Beck & Gavin Baird, BECKS.

Edmund Evans, Palloys.

Palloys crew: Back Row (L-R) Ben Pearce, Alan Lusty, Nathan Ball, Conrad Dsouza, Richard Ashman, Tolga Capanoglu. Front Row (L-R) Su Yang, Sophie Kim, Sumaya Klank, Nancy Khao, Sasha Kirjanova.

This is my third year attending the Melbourne Jewellery Industry Fair and I can confirm they just keep getting better. This year the fair was held at the Royal Exhibition Building located in Carlton Gardens, an easy place to access on public transport and in the centre of the city. The building is renowned for its grand Victorian architecture, featuring a distinctive glass-and-iron roof.

There was a real buzz and positive vibe with the exhibitors, I was greeted with many familiar smiling faces. I am happy to report that we have a few more of these exhibitors crossing the Tasman for our JWNZ Spring Fair in Auckland on September 14, notably Orange River, Facets and Devino.

The weather was warm and Melbourne was at its very best. Held early in the year it is a great time to stock up after Christmas; it will be in my diary for 2026.

- DEBBIE WHITING, JT

Mariana Ramirez, Adam Plant & Isabel Chiang, Orange River

George Palos & Heidi Iveson, Facets Australia

John Michaelis and the very popular oyster lady.

Rudi & Caroline Zingg, Devino Pearls

One-of-a-kind

Contemporary designer jewellery boutique Tomfoolery’s annual ARTring Exhibition, held at its Muswell Hill boutique in North London in January, showcased one-of-a-kind rings specially created for the event by a select group of designers. Among those on display…

Brooke Gregson says of her Ruby Diamond Pinwheel Art Ring: “I was inspired by the whimsical side of the Pop Art Movement. The vibrant ruby is the centre of attention, honoured by sapphires, white diamonds and ombré enamel radiating out.”

“Amethyst, rubellite and mandarin garnet berries surround a moreish piece of moonstone nougat.” Isla Gilham says her Berry Nougat Art Ring was “inspired by “delicious antique jewels, patisserie treats and the temptation of gems.”

The Trine Diamond Bi-Colour Tourmaline Spinel & Sapphire Art Ring by Artëmer is handcrafted from yellow gold. A central light greenish yellow step-cut trapeze diamond takes centre stage, surrounded by the striking interplay of bi-colour red and orange tourmaline, grey purple spinel and teal sapphires.

The Aquamarine Dew Drop Art Ring by Momocreatura combines the serene beauty of aquamarine with the intriguing charm of salt and pepper diamonds, delicately set against textured 9ct recycled yellow gold. This ring can be worn as a finger ring or as a pendant charm.

The Coral & Barnacle Cluster Art Ring by Ami Pepper is handcrafted in 9ct yellow gold and showcases the beauty of pear-shaped green sapphires

Maria Frantzi ‘s Flower Interpreted ring features an 18ct green gold bezel setting, sterling silver, black rhodium plating, yellow beryl and rhodolite garnets.

The Guardians Art Ring by Eily O Connell was inspired by the mysterious depths of the sea. Crafted with a bi-coloured sapphire in green and yellow hues, symbolising the hidden treasures guarded by the mystical beings of the deep. Positioned above a bed of glossy coral, the sapphire reflects an array of captivating colours.

Maud Traon calls her silver art ring: ‘Rebuilding a life after Covid’. Glitter and sequins join smoky quartz, obsidian, abalone and amethyst.

Wearable masterpieces

A Christie’s December sale at the Rockefeller Centre featured one of the most significant collections of jewellery by the late Parisian jewellery designer, Suzanne Belperron, ever to appear at auction.

Christie’s presented the Jewels as Art: Magnificent Jewels from a Private Collection auction, a meticulously curated collection of jewellery which serves as wearable art. Carefully curated over the years by an American collector with an eye for art and design who seamlessly integrated these treasures into Belperron’s life and personal style, the collection includes pieces that capture key craftsmanship techniques.

Above: Among the most emblematic lots in the collection was the Facetté Cuff Bracelet (estimate: US$200,000-US$300,000 which sold for US$415,800), a testament to Belperron’s skilful use of semi-precious materials like silver and rock crystal to create strikingly bold, geometric forms.

Below: Another highlight was a Diamond Tube Bracelet (estimate: $400,000$600,000, which sold for US$945,000).

Beyond the Belperron jewels, the collection showcased exceptional pieces spanning centuries, reflecting this private collector’s commitment to exquisite design across eras.

19th century rose-cut Antique Diamond Rivière Necklace, which sold for US$138,600.

Gorges Forquet art deco multi gem enamel bangle ($US239,400).

A premier example of 21st century jewellery design from JAR, a pair of coloured diamond and diamond hedgehog earrings (US$567,000).

Bulgari multi gem diamond bracelet (US$567,000).

Canvas couture

As part of its partnership with London’s National Gallery’s 200th year, Liverpool luxury jewellers, Boodles, sponsored the Constable Haywain Exhibition. In celebration of this sponsorship, Boodles designers created three one-off jewellery pieces: two brooches and a pendant, all inspired by the works of English landscape painter John Constable (1776-1837).

Known for his evocative depictions of rural England, Constable’s work captures the beauty and emotion of nature with an incomparable mastery. Each piece in this collection paid

Weymouth Bay brooch

It was during his honeymoon in 1816 that Constable painted the work known as Weymouth Bay. He and his new bride, Maria, were staying at the vicarage in Osmington, a small village near Weymouth in Dorset.

In the Weymouth Bay brooch, a striking cabochon-cut lemon ‘chrysoprase’, a type of variegated agate, echoes the shape of Jordan Hill. Rubies, brown diamonds, brown zircons and green tsavorites mirror the rocks, sand and downs.

Above and to the left of those, brilliant white round-cut diamonds suggest the scudding white and grey clouds. And below them, four curved rows incorporating graduated sapphires mimic the play of the waves on the shoreline.

homage to three of Constable’s most iconic works, The Hay Wain, Weymouth Bay and Stratford Mill, with designers selecting gemstones to echo the light, colour and atmosphere of the paintings.

The Hay Wain brooch

The view in The Hay Wain is of the millpond at Flatford on the River Stour. Flatford Mill was a watermill for grinding corn, operated by the Constable family for nearly 100 years. It still survives and is about a mile from Constable’s birthplace at East Bergholt, Suffolk.

The Hay Wain brooch features a labradorite set in rose gold to recreate the play of light on the millpond. Right of this stone is a billow of brilliant cut diamonds, suggesting cloud forms. Cognac diamonds sit at their lower edge, echoing the rushes.

Around the labradorite, lines of blue brilliant cut sapphires suggest varying blues of the sky. Its lighter points show in three Ceylon sapphires, which also capture the blue of the millpond above the waggon itself. Beneath those, three sapphire baguettes imply the lines of blue in the water, seen to the left of the horses’ red fringes.

Stratford Mill necklace

John Constable was born in East Bergholt, a Suffolk village southwest of Ipswich. The neighbouring village of Stratford St Mary lies two miles westward, on the river Stour. And that’s where Stratford Mill used to stand: a paper mill, powered by water.

Although the mill itself lends the painting its title, the National Galleryowned artwork scarcely shows the paper mill at all. It’s half-building (and quarter-mill wheel) seem almost incidental, cropped and largely hidden by shadow. The real subject of the picture is what attracts and leads the onlooker’s gaze: a marvellously naturalistic, blue and white cloudstrewn sky. Constable’s skies have made him famous. He obsessed over them, seeking to capture their changes through the medium of paint.

Look to the treetops in the centre of the painting and the horizontal wisps of cloud to their right. Designers drew on this exemplar of Constable’s focus for the new Stratford Mill necklace. Labradorite, the oval stone pendant, captures the blues and purply greys of the heavens. Above and below the main stone, dozens of brilliant cut diamonds, graduating in size, suggest solid dabs and translucent lines of cloud. Around those, five light blue Ceylon sapphires capture the sky in solid form.

Weymouth Bay (1816) IMAGE: THE NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON

The Hay Wain (1821) IMAGE: THE NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON

Stratford Mill (1820) IMAGE: THE NATIONAL GALLERY, LONDON

Snake charmers

On 29 January, the world entered the Year of the Snake as celebrations began to mark the Chinese New Year. The Year of the Snake represents introspection, wisdom, charm, elegance and growth in the Chinese lunar calendar. People born in the Year of the Snake are encouraged to wear something red throughout 2025.

In Chinese culture, the snake is a highly respected symbol of intelligence and charm, often seen as a figure of elegance and mystery. And to mark this special occasion, luxury watch

Chaumet Espiègleries Tresors d’Afrique. The dial of the 18ct white gold watch, set with brilliant cut diamonds, is made from blood jasper. The snake is yellow gold, with jewelled scales in tsavorite garnet and yellow sapphire decorated with enamel. The frog and leaves are yellow gold.

The dial of Louis Vuitton’s enamel and white gold Escale Cabinet of Wonders Snake’s Jungle watch depicts a vigorous serpent situated in a verdant bamboo forest, brought to life through multi-material marquetry, alongside meticulous handengraved and champlevé enamel details. The bamboo forest is composed of wood, parchment and straw, seamlessly handassembled using marquetry techniques to achieve all 14 shades of green. Limited edition: 20 pieces.

brands across the globe have released limited edition watches to pay tribute to the Year

Utilizing the company CIGA Design’s patented ‘Non-Synchronous Follower Technology’, this watch achieves precise timekeeping: the snake's head indicates hours while its tail indicates minutes. While the hour dial remains stationary, the minute dial moves, and the snake's tail follows, accurately indicating both hours and minutes.

The watch case is made from black jadeite and the satin-textured snake in the centre of the dial is crafted with gold plating. The golden snake lies on an abstract pattern resembling snake scales and in harmony with zodiac culture, the case is made from traditional jadeite.

Breguet’s Classique 7145 Lunar New Year watch is limited to just eight pieces and features an 18ct rose gold case and sapphire caseback. The dial is in gold, engine-turned and engraved by hand. The foliage is decorated with a green lacquer for a touch of colour.

It takes almost three days for the master engraver at Vacheron Constantin to produce the lifelike cobra and the rock appliques in the centre of this dial. Entirely engraved by hand, the textures and relief are highlighted with miniature paint and patina. The surrounding scenery is entrusted to a master enameller. The light blue sky is made with gradient Grand Feu enamel that intensifies as it reaches the periphery.

On the other hand, the foliage is created using an ancestral Geneva technique known as flux-coated miniature opaque enamel. To ensure that nothing gets in the way of the richly decorated dial, the movement is designed to display the time and calendar functions with apertures instead of hands.

Harry Winston’s Chinese New Year Automatic 36mm in rose gold with diamonds, emeralds, spessartite garnets and green sapphires.

From Franck Muller - an18ct gold asymmetrical case reflecting the sinuous silhouette of a slithering snake. To echo the case design, the dial incorporates two strips of green emeralds. These gemset accents feel organic and seamlessly blend into the whimsical aesthetic of the case and hour markers. The strap is created from green calf leather and embossed with a pattern that mimics the scales of a snake’s skin. Limited edition: 28 pieces.

The dial of the Jacquet Droz watch is mother-of-pearl and the snake is sculpted from five blocks of solid white gold, with jewelled scales in tsavorite garnet and yellow sapphire. The piece has a 41mm red gold case and the hours and minutes are shown by rotating discs. The hours are shown next to the snake’s head, with the minutes appearing below.

Dior’s Grand Soir Year of the Snake has a 36mm polished stainlesssteel case and a rose-gold bezel set with 52 brilliant-cut diamonds, for a total of 1.3 carats. The mother-of-pearl dial features flowers, some rose gold and others mother-of-pearl. There is also an opaline snake with gold details, along with rose-gold butterflies. Limited edition: 30 pieces.

Many thanks to our trade fair sponsors:

Auckland 9.30am - 4.30pm

Come and appreciate the future in this new, modern facility!

MORE SPACELARGER TABLES September 14, 2025

• 20% increase in the number of exhibitors to date

• 88% increase in exhibition floor plan

• 45% increase in number of exhibitor tables

• All exhibitors on one level and one area

• Travel incentives

• Travel prizes

9 stands left on a first come first served basis

Visitor registration opens early March 2025

Contact:

Craig Anderson, 021 596 988, info@jwnz.co.nz

Debbie Whiting, 0274 777 955, inklink@xtra.co.nz

A famous five

In 2024 Sotheby’s auction house unveiled an exceptional lineup of Rolex watches. From the iconic ‘John Player Special’ Daytona, to the historically significant Day-Date once owned by Egyptian President Gamal Abdel Nasser.

Following are the five most expensive Rolex watches sold at auction last year.

This Rolex Daytona Paul Newman Reference 6241, famously known as the ‘John Player Special’, was sold for US$1,140,000. This rare variant of the ‘Paul Newman’ Daytona takes its name from the striking black-and-gold livery of the Lotus Formula One cars sponsored by John Player & Sons in the 1970s.

The reference 6241, produced between 1966 and 1969, is among the rarest Daytona models, with only approximately 3,000 examples made and an estimated 300 crafted in yellow gold. Even rarer still, only a small fraction of these featured the coveted John Player Special dial, making this particular piece a standout in horological history. What also elevates this watch is its unique 14ct yellow gold case, a departure from the more common 18ct gold, paired with a matching 14ct yellow gold Rolex Jubilee bracelet.

This Rolex Day-Date Reference 1803, sold for US$840,000. Introduced in 1956 as the first watch to display both the day and date in full on its dial, the Day-Date quickly earned its reputation as the ‘Rolex President’.

This 1963 example belonged to Egyptian President Gamal Abdel Nasser, a transformative leader in the Arab world. Known for his dedication to social justice and monumental achievements like the construction of the Aswan High Dam, Nasser left an indelible mark on history. The watch, a gift from his close friend and future president Anwar El Sadat, bears a personalised inscription in Arabic that reads: ‘Mr. Anwar El Sadat 26-9-1963’, linking two legendary figures in Egyptian history.

The Rolex 'Zenith' Daytona Reference 16519 sold for US$360,000. It is among the rarest automatic Daytona models, distinguished by its white gold case and rare salmon dial. Unlike the typical mother-of-pearl dials, the salmon variant's warm tone makes it exceptionally desirable. With only four known examples at auction, this configuration is a true rarity, coveted by collectors worldwide.

Released in 1988, the Zenith Daytona marked Rolex's first use of an automatic movement, powered by the extensively modified Zenith El Primero Caliber 4030. The Reference 16519, crafted in white gold, features a solid metal tachymeter bezel and durable sapphire crystal.

Rolex Daytona Paul Newman Reference 6241 circa 1969.

Rolex Day-Date Reference 1803 circa 1963.

Rolex 'Zenith' Daytona Reference 16519 circa 1997.

The Rolex Daytona Reference 6238 marks an important step in the history of Rolex chronographs. Known as the ‘Pre-Daytona’, this model was one of the last to feature a tachymeter scale on the dial, before Rolex moved it to the bezel in later Daytona models. Made around 1968, this particular watch is crafted in 14ct gold, a choice often seen in Rolex watches made for the U.S.

This watch has features very similar to the later Daytona models, like the black bezel and two-tone dial, but also includes unique details such as gold chronograph hands and larger print for the ‘T SWISS’ marking. As is often the case with Rolex, the differences between references can be almost imperceptible and seemingly trivial, with many parts interchangeable between references.

The original owner, a modest New York City civil servant who said he and his wife lived pay cheue to pay cheque, was blissfully unaware of its value. The Brooklyn resident inherited the gold Rolex from his uncle in 1998 and kept it in a safe deposit box, wearing it only on special occasions like his son’s bar mitzvah and daughter’s wedding, while believing it was worth US$10,000. When his bank closed its safety deposit boxes in 2023, he resorted to hiding it at home in a flowerpot in his basement.

A chance conversation during a cruise holiday revealed his Daytona was actually worth far more than he had imagined.

“A presentation [on the cruise] about Rolex watches piqued my interest,” he wrote in a letter to Sotheby’s. “After showing a picture of my watch to a fellow passenger, he exclaimed, 'That watch is worth a lot of money. Be careful where you take it!’”

The owner decided to visit Sotheby's, travelling by subway with the timepiece tucked in his pocket. The watch ultimately sold for US$768,000.

NECK TIME

The Rolex Daytona Reference 6265 was sold for US$347,900. Known as the ‘Mystery Cross’, this model is one of only four known examples featuring the Swiss cross surrounded by a knotted rope engraved on the case back. This emblem, linked to the Swiss Foundation of Alpine Research, was first identified on supply sacks used during the 1952 Mount Everest expedition.

This Daytona, housed in a 14ct gold case, shares its lineage with previously known examples, yet holds unique significance due to its direct connection to the Swiss Foundation of Alpine Research. Gifted by Ernst Feuz, a founding member, to his brother Walter, it remained in the family until now.

Looking to attract younger customers, Chanel has unveiled a necklace with an integrated Première watch and branded wired headphones, with microphone and controls for mobile phone apps. Wearing watches around the neck has emerged as a trend, as seen on Rihanna and Taylor Swift in the past year.

The Première Sound jewellery has an enhanced version of its Première Édition Originale watch, which has an octagonal case inspired by the stopper of the Chanel No. 5 perfume bottle and a flexible bracelet as a nod to the chained shoulder strap of the maison’s iconic bag.

Rolex Daytona Reference 6238 circa 1968.

Rolex Daytona Reference 6265 circa 1971.

The crew at Jewellery Time would like to thank our loyal advertisers and contributors. Thirty years plus behind us now and with good support from our industry.

2025 Winter Booking, Editorial and New Products: May 2, Advertising Material: May 9, Magazine Posted: May 16

Future deadlines:

2025 Spring Trade Fair Special Booking, Editorial and New Products: August 1, Advertising Material: August 7, Magazine Posted: August 14

2025 Summer Booking, Editorial and New Products: November 5, Advertising Material: November 12, Magazine Posted: November 19

Give us a call to discuss how we can help.

2026 Autumn Booking, Editorial and New Products: February 12, Advertising Material: February 19, Magazine Posted: February 26

Any support the trade can give us is welcomed. If you have an advertisement, new products to promote, or an editorial feature suggestion, please get in touch.

SEAWORTHY, PLUS PINK AND POWERFUL

Tiffany & Co. has unveiled new designs from the Tiffany Titan collection, a collaboration with American musician Pharrell Williams. The collection features freshwater pearls, drawing inspiration from king of the sea ‘Poseidon’ and a tribute to Williams’ hometown, Atlantis.

A spear-like motif recurs throughout the collection, along with curved and soft links. The initial launch of Tiffany Titan featured 18ct yellow gold or black titanium in all-metal and diamond iterations.

Meanwhile, expanding on current pieces, Tiffany has unveiled new narrow and small-scale iterations of its Lock bracelet, pendant, earrings and ring suite, each set with pink sapphires. One of the rarest coloured gemstones found within the precious sapphire family, pink sapphires symbolize love and power.

WITH A GOLDEN MOVEMENT

Slightly Windy Golden Leaves is a one-of-a-kind piece from the students of the Master in Design for Luxury and Craftsmanship at ECAL University, based in Lausanne, Switzerland.

It encourages contemplation of the landscapes and the rolling hills of the Jura area in Switzerland and features a base with hand-gilded motifs that replicate the topography of the Sainte-Croix region, its place of origin. Major roads, rivers, and reliefs are represented on it. The musical movement has been placed to indicate the factory site of Reuge and the field of wheat from which the ears of wheat come.

Material: Heattreated ash and solid walnut, hand-drawn decoration in 22ct gold leaf, 12 genuine ears of wheat gilded with gold which sway in time to the music, brass movement and three melodies are played in succession with 15 music cycles.

Well, here we are in 2025…it’s hard to pretend that the world is not getting hotter. I have just returned from the Jewellery Industry Fair in Melbourne, so hot and muggy, between 30 and 40 degrees most days, hard to concentrate when all one wants to do is jump into a giant bucket of ice-cubes. Thank goodness for the raspberry gelato at Palloys, so refreshing and cool. The salted caramel was also a winner with the punters and I have to say the fresh shucked oysters with lemon juice were simply divine!

The fair was held in a new venue this year, the beautiful old Melbourne Exhibition Building, built in 1860. Exquisite frescos and windows. More exhibitors and a lot more visitors than last year, which gave it a good vibe. Hard to judge final results, but we wrote some good business. The second day was a lot quieter, which was expected with the intense heat, but overall worth the trip.

At our last JWNZ National Council meeting, it was decided to change our financial year balance date to 31 March, to align both annual accounts and GST periods. A new subscription structure has been put in place as it has been

RETAILERS REVIEW

10 years plus since our subscription rates have changed. These will be reflected in your Annual Subscription Invoice that will be sent to you in April. The increased costs the organisation has previously absorbed over these years can no longer be sustained.

On a positive note, our annual JWNZ Spring Trade Fair, to be held on Sunday 14th September at the Viaduct Events Centre in Auckland - a larger one level venue and more exhibitors - is almost

BY SUSI CHINNERY-BROWN

On the corner of Russell and Eastbourne Streets in Hastings, is the delightful little jewellery store, The Naked Jeweller. When I first called here it was Narborough's Jewellers, then Baldwins Jewellers and now, current owner Kem McLean has created a fabulous atmosphere by stripping back the interior to reveal everyone at work at their benches, in a store filled with natural light from the huge old windows.

completely sold out.

I will be heading down to the South Island in mid-February, so look forward to catching up with everyone and seeing how summer trading has panned out for you.

Keep cool, keep safe and here’s to a positive 2025. Please feel free to contact me at any time - Susi Chinnery-Brown, JWNZ President, 021 751 115, susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

Kem had been working in a local store and in 2007 started his apprenticeship and when qualified, worked as a contract jeweller from home. In 2018 he purchased the store and after a year completed the radical re-vamp/ open work environment it is today. The team there specialises in everything with a smile. Kem (known as The Young Buck) works alongside jeweller Michael Volk (Lord of the Rings) Tim Turner (The Watch Guru) and Gazel Makea (The Sensible One). When not at work, Kem likes going to music gigs, cycling and pottering around at home with his young daughter. Tim is an avid orchid grower and judge and likes to ride his Triumph Rocket 3.25. Michael paints watercolours and oils/NZ scenery and enjoys his gardening. Gazel, a very talented artist, is a student at Hastings Wānanga, working on her Masters Degree in Toi Maori and Indigenous Arts.

Susi Chinnery-Brown.

From left, Kem McLean, Gazel Makea, Tim Turner and Michael Volk.

Senior Constable Raj Sambamurthy and Leading Senior Constable Aaron Heriotpictured at the Melbourne JIF Fair.

TOP RINGS

Bonhams New Bond Street auction house presented its London Jewels sale in December. The top lot was an exceptional coloured diamond and diamond ring, circa 1830. The old pear-shaped diamond of light pink colour weighing 2.27 carats, was set within a heart-shaped surround of cushion-shaped and old brilliant-cut diamonds, between scrolling openwork shoulders.

The spectacular ring sold for £381,400, over seven times its pre-sale estimate of £50,000-70,000.

Meanwhile a rare Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring fetched £260,000 at a Cheffins, Cambridge, UK, auction. The Kashmir sapphire ring was accompanied by a report from Gübelin, which put the weight of the sapphire at 5.79 carats and confirmed its Kashmir origin. It showed no indication of heating, had a catalogue estimate of £40,000£60,000.

FOR THE TABLE

Up for auction at Bonhams Paris, a Christiaan van der Klaauw rare handmade key wind gold-plated brass and silver clock, with a sphere on top demonstrating the solar system.

The clock has four sides which all have their own separate dial and the function that goes with them. The first dial of the Planeto Astrolabium displays the time, date, and month, the second dial indicates the number of the week, the year, and the Astrolabium, the third dial shows a map of the stars of the southern hemisphere. Finally the fourth dial shows a map of the stars of the northern hemisphere.

The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Inc.

MEMBER BENEFITS:

Jewellery Time magazine - The focal point of JWNZ member and industry communication.

JWNZ Inc. Trade Fair - An annual event held on behalf of our members, for our members and industry.

Internet - www.jwnz.co.nz - The official JWNZ website with a free listing for financial members.

Press Releases - Jewellery and watch specific editorial promotion of product and JWNZ members.

Consumer Information - Online brochures, water resistancy guide and refund policy.

BUSINESS SERVICES:

ANZ Bank - Business and Personal banking.

ANZ Merchant Business Solutions - Merchant facilities for EFTPOS, Credit & Debit Card sales.

Gallagher - Business, Personal and Travel insurances.

CourierPost - Special Trackpak rates, $2000 insurance cover on each parcel sent.

EFTPOS NZ Ltd - EFTPOS Terminals and Payment Solutions.

Gilrose Finance - Consumer Finance for Hire Purchase sales.

Grow Online Ltd - Creating Results Driven Websites, SEO (Search Engine Optimisation), SEM (Search Engine Marketing), Ecommerce Websites, B2B, Custom Solutions.

Office Products Depot - Stationery, Office furniture, Computer accessories and consumerables.

one.nz - Telecommunication services - Fixed line & Broadband

one.nz - DigitalMobile - Vodafone Product Suppliers

INDUSTRY REPRESENTATION:

Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand - Representation on the Jewellery & Watch Industry organisation responsible for Apprenticeship Training.

TRADE & COMMERCE:

Government Liaison (When required) - Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Commerce Commission, New Zealand Customs, Disputes Tribunal, New Zealand Trade & Enterprise, Immigration New Zealand, Statistics New Zealand, Ministry of Economic Development.

JWNZ CHANGES THAT WILL HAPPEN IN 2025

JWNZ FINANCIALS

The organisation is changing its financial year end date to 31 March. Included in this change is the realignment of our GST Return periods. By doing this we will be able to continue to hold our Annual General Meetings in September, within six months of the end of our financial year, a requirement under the guidelines of re-registration.

ANNUAL SUBSCRIPTIONS

The annual subscription rates for the 2025-2026 year have been approved by the National Council and your subscription invoices will be sent to you in April, not March as previously notified. Subscriptions rates have increased as rates had not increased for 10 years plus and the changing business and economic environment over this period and especially over last five years, has meant the increase

in annual subscriptions is essential to maintain the benefits provided to you by the organisation. We are very thankful for your support through your financial membership. The JWNZ Executive is very aware of costs and our budgeting and members will see the organisation’s position at the 31 March in the 2024-2025 accounts. To help with your budgeting we continue offer the option of paying the annual membership subscription by monthly instalment.

JWNZ RULES

Having received all the information we require, we are in the process of writing the new JWNZ Rules prior to the reregistration of the organisation. Our time frame to complete the rewrite has been set for the end of March. The new rules will be put to the 2025 AGM for approval in September.

GOLDSMITHS GUILD OF NZ

I hope everyone had a successful Christmas trading period, followed by a pleasant break. Now we look forward to 2025, despite all the uncertainties happening around the world. The big question is, “Are we in the hands of the right people who can make the right decisions?”

JWNZ SPRING TRADE FAIR

The JWNZ Spring Trade Fair, Sunday 14 September 2025, at the Viaduct Events Centre, Auckland. A new venue, single level exhibition space, new exhibitors, incentives to attend and currently 97% of the exhibitor space is sold. Debbie Whiting, Trade Fair Manager, is certain that the venue will be a sell out and will be the key to the success of the event in this and future years.

JWNZ Inc. National Office

Craig Anderson

JWNZ Executive Secretary T 021 59 69 88 E info@jwnz.co.nz

The Village Goldsmith 78 Victoria Street

Wellington

This brings me to an important date in the Goldsmiths Guild calendar - the AGM: 6.00pm Thursday, 13th March

Please let me know if you can attend so that I have an indication of numbers. I can be contacted as below.

- Brian Barrett

GGNZ CHAIRMAN 04 476 4764, 021 661 060 nzgoldsmithsguild@gmail.com

Craig Anderson.

First time exhibitors in 2024, Oozoo Timepieces / Steel & Barnett and Triton Sourcing & Distribution will both be back for 2025 in our new venue at the Viaduct Events Centre.

Brian Barrett.

Happy new year everybody. I hope that Christmas treated you well and you are back ready for 2025.

With the passing of the year, the results for those apprentices who sat their Trade Certificate Final Examination are out. This examination does not gain someone their Trade Certificate on its own. To be awarded a Trade Certificate as a New Zealand Manufacturing Jeweller or as a New Zealand Watch and Clockmaker, a pass in the Trade Certificate examination must also be grouped with 8000hrs at the bench spent mastering all the ‘Tasks’ as outlined in the apprentice’s Training Record book. This includes passing “the practical test piece or training days as directed” and completion of Stages 1, 2 and 3 of the TOPNZ correspondence courses.

Of note here is that Watch and Clockmaking apprentices are now able to fully complete this requirement, thanks to a sterling effort by Alistair Saywell, with his help in the updating of the content of the TOPNZ Watch and Clockmaking course material.

A huge part of the support JIRBNZ and the apprentices receive is shown by the firm supporters flagged below on our apprentice supporters’ banner, who hand over some of their hardearned cash, which is much appreciated and put to great use. I am pleased to again confirm that all firms bannered as apprentice supporters below have wholeheartedly repledged their support for 2025 and I list them in order:

GOLD

1 - Morris and Watson Ltd x2

2 - Jewellery Services

3 - BECKS

4 - Gallagher Insurance

5 - Precious Gem Imports

6 - Twenty Five 7 Ltd

7 - Carl Young Gems

8 - Pacific Time Industries

9 - Audacious Gems

10 - Jewellery Time magazine SILVER

10 - NZ GEM

11 - GA Warburtons

12 - PEKA

13 - Worth and Douglas Ltd

14 - Chemgold

Do take the time to note who they are, their commitment to apprentice training and support them as a big thank you in return.

On that note here are the fruits of the support involved. A number of Trade Certificates have been achieved,

so please welcome to the Trade as Qualified Trade Certified Tradespeople, in Manufacturing Jewellery: Cameron Mew, Isabella Roland, Caleb Dowling and Amelia Pask and in Watch and Clockmaking: Alice Busson. Well done everyone.

– Grant Harrison

Industry appointed Commissioner of Apprentices

Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand

M: 027 693 0001, E: info@jirbnz.org.nz W: www.jirbnz.org.nz

JIRBNZ’s Grant Harrison and Alice Busson.

From left, Gina Botham and Amelia Pask (GMW Jewellery) and Master Jeweller Noel Herd.

From left, Richard Mayo , Isabella Roland, Caleb Dowling and Marty Leverno, Jewellery Services.

From left, Shayne Neville, Cameron Mew and Kenedi Nulesi, Shayne Neville Jeweller.

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES

PEARL ALLURE

This elegant sterling silver collection features natural bamboo coral and freshwater pearls, including stunning hook earrings, a 19cm elastic bracelet and a 45cm adjustable necklace. Each piece showcases vibrant coral and lustrous pearls, designed to complement one another beautifully.

Available as a coordinated set or individually, these timeless accessories add a touch of sophistication to any outfit, perfect for both everyday wear and special occasions.

Product codes: IP376E-RED (earrings), IP376B-RED (bracelet), IP376N-RED (necklace).

Aquamarine, hematite and lustrous freshwater pearls are featured in this stunning sterling silver collection. The set includes elegant hook earrings, a 19cm elastic bracelet and a 45cm adjustable necklace with a 5cm extension. Perfectly coordinated, yet available for purchase individually, these timeless pieces bring a sophisticated blend of soft blue, metallic shimmer, and classic pearl elegance to any outfit, ideal for any occasion.

Product codes: IP374E-BLUE (earrings), IP374B-BLUE (bracelet), IP374N-BLUE (necklace).

Contact: Ikecho Australia, Ph 61 2 9266 0636, cindy@ikecho.co.au, www.ikecho.com.au

FIRST OUT OF THE BOX

Sterling silver adjustable Snake Ring for the Year of the Snake. These are beautifully crafted, solid sterling silver adjustable rings that come in an elegant Wildside Gifts jewellery box.

Solid sterling silver adjustable Monarch Butterfly Ring. A delicately wrought circle of sterling silver Monarch butterflies in a band, which comes in a beautiful Wildside Gifts jewellery box.

In a box, Heart Hoop Drop earrings - sterling silver with New Zealand greenstone. 10mm wide New Zealand greenstone hearts set in sterling silver, attached to a sterling silver hoop stud.

Sterling silver with New Zealand Greenstone heart stud 10mm earrings. New Zealand greenstone hearts set in sterling silver stud earrings. They, too, come beautifully boxed.

Contact: Wildside Gifts, info@thewildside.co.nz

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES

PRETTY AS A PICTURE

Gorgeous new earrings from ESSE: Onyx, green enamel and marcasite clip-ons (43-360). Green agate drops (43-359) and Artdeco style lapis drops (43-358).

New rings in four colours: Garnet (18-1097 G), amethyst (8-1097 AM), blue topaz (18-1097 BTP) and citrine (18-1097 CIT).

A pretty garnet ring with a centre oval stone (18-1099) and two bold cocktail rings with rectangular centre stones, surrounded by marcasites: Onyx (18-1098 ON) and green agate (18-1098 GA). All items are crafted in sterling silver and hand set with top grade Swarovski marcasites. Contact: AM Imports Pty Ltd. NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown, P. 021 751 115, susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

SET TO DELIGHT

Discover our latest collection of 9ct gold earrings, showcasing tear drop designs and beaded stone-set huggie earrings.

Contact: Worth & Douglas Ltd, P + 64 9 303 4666, sales@worthdouglas.co.nz, www. worthdouglas.com

FOR ALL SEASONS

Romantic Thomas Sabo heart bracelet with a radiant red lab-grown sapphire framed by fine zirconia stones. TA2188RE.

This Thomas Sabo charm bracelet made from faceted, oval rose quartz beads is a must-have for all fashion lovers. Add your favourite charms to personalise your look. CX0292RQ.

The Daniel Wellington Ophelia Mini Watch features a dial with an elegant oval shape that diverges from traditional watches. This one-of-a-kind new ladies’ watch offers a lot of newness. DW00100803.

This updated style of the loved Daniel Wellington Petite Reflection Gold watch showcases a mirror glass dial that perfectly complements its fully polished components. The new mesh strap, featuring a polished design, creates a seamless mirror effect throughout the watch. DW00100797.

What do you get when you mix an elegant jewellery piece and high-quality watch craftmanship? The Daniel Wellington Jolie chain watch, a timeless blend of the Quadro mini watch head and a chain jewellery bracelet. The small watch head seamlessly integrates with the chunky chain, creating a functional yet decorative piece. DW00100836.

Elevate your style with the DKNY City Maxi Black Watch, a timeless piece that effortlessly combines sophistication and modern flair. Its sleek black dial is complemented by a stunning gold-plated stainless steel case. DK1L001L0025.

The DKNY Chambers Midi Silver Dial Watch is the perfect fusion of elegance and contemporary design. The striking silver-white dial creates a clean, timeless look, while the midi size offers a modern, sophisticated feel. DK1L016M0065.

The DKNY Soho Maxi Rose Dial Watch blends bold design with elegant details. With its stunning rose gold-plated stainless steel case and band, this timepiece radiates sophistication and style. The rose gold dial creates a harmonious, monochromatic look that is both modern and timeless. DK1L034M0065.

Contact: Helen Finlayson, DGA Duraflex Group Australia, Ph + 61 2 9417 0177, NZ 027 7226 000, helen@dgau.com.au

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES

CELEBRATE WITH BUBBLES

Nina's Jewellery is preparing for the launch of their new March range by re-releasing their champagne diamond favourites. Bestsellers across multiple retail locations in the last two decades, the Champagne Bubbles, Pathway and Selena rings epitomise the classic Nina's Jewellery aesthetic - solid, sturdy bezel and semibezel settings, designed to showcase the rich character of natural champagne diamonds. Contact: wholesale@ninas.co, ninasjewellerywholesale.com.au

EFFORTLESS ELEGANCE FOR EVERYDAY MOMENTS

This year Georgini’s Creative Director, Melinda Carey, set a simple yet meaningful goal: to find a little peace in each day.

This pursuit of tranquillity became the inspiration behind ADAGIO, a collection that embodies effortless elegance. ADAGIO pieces offer a sense of ease and sophistication to everyday style. With pearls at the heart of the collection, ADAGIO delivers timeless beauty with minimal effort, making it the perfect addition to a modern capsule wardrobe.

The launch of ADAGIO also marks the debut of Nine-2-Five, a new line designed for seamless transitions throughout the day. With Nine-2-Five, elegance is always within reach, making it easier than ever to elevate your look without complication.

“With ADAGIO, I hope to bring you more than just jewellery. I want to create little moments of calm and beauty that effortlessly brighten your every day,” says Melinda. “Because, let’s face it, pearls are way easier to juggle than life!”

Contact: Georgini, Ph +613 9553 3777, admin@georgini.com.au, www.georgini.com.au

Crooner, from Rochet: 8mm satined steel necklace. 45cm. Adjustable. Available in gold plated or stainless.

Contact: Pacific Time Industries, sales@watchparts.co.nz

Boccia watch 3364-04 - Pure titanium, gold plated, 5 bar, sapphire crystal, green leather strap, faceted dauphine tapered hands, 32mm. RRP $365

STREET STYLE

ROSEFIELD - BWGSG-B01

We've reinvented our two best-selling timepieces to create a new iconic silhouette. The beautiful Boxelle from Rosefield features a 19.5mm x 24.5mm square case with a matte white dial and gold-tone stainless steel bracelet that's easy to adjust. A timeless new statement of elegance that is sure to become an instant classic. RRP $229.95.

FURLA -

WW00063002L2

Dainty but modern, this elegant timepiece by Furla doubles as a distinctive chain bracelet to bring sophisticated style to every day. The Furla Arch logo forms the links in the goldtone stainless steel bracelet. Complemented by the round, textured green sunray dial, which stands out against the gold-tone 28mm case. RRP $429.00.

TED BAKER - BKPJLS502

After the success of last season, Ted Baker's Jolyye is back with more refined and elevated details. The delicate 24mm gold-tone case features a black sunray dial, surrounded by a ring of crystals and paired with a simple black leather strap, making it unique and contemporary. RRP $295.00.

GUESS - GW0703G6

This new oversized style from GUESS Watches features a coin edge bezel and chronolook multi-function deep blue dial. The sleek gold-tone stainless steel bracelet completes this iconic look. RRP $549.95.

GUESS - GW0861L2

For those that demand sophistication and statement styling this new collection features from GUESS Watches is a must have. The 36mm gold-tone case features our iconic a quattro 'G' logo at the centre of the croco textured champagne dial and is paired with an elegant gold-tone bracelet. RRP $329.95.

TIMEX - TW2Y12100

Channelling the bold designs that filled the scene in ‘70s West Hollywood, the Q Timex® Continental GMT brings refinement to our beloved Q Timex collection, with a new streamlined 39mm brushed stainless-steel case with polished edges and a sleek GMT function featuring a discreet display at 6 o’clock. The simple black or silver-tone dial features a radial texture and a clean presentation that’s effortlessly cool, highlighted by faceted hour markers, Luminant hands for enhanced visibility in the dark and a glanceable date window beside the 3rd hour marker. Completing the truly ‘70s style look is a tapered and integrated brushed stainless-steel bracelet. RRP $399.95.

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaaccessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories. com.au

$150.00 each for Standard Business Card size advertisement $400.00 for 4 issues (1 year) $300.00 each for Double Standard Business Card size advertisement $800.00 for 4 issues (1 year) Contact: Debbie Whiting, Jewellery Time, PO Box 46 218 Herne Bay Auckland. Phone 09 - 378 1222 – www.jewellerytime.co.nz Email: inklink@xtra.co.nz

19 Tapestry Grove, Silverstream, Upper Hutt 5019 p 04 528 9699 e info@aven.co.nz www.aven.co.nz All rethreading including lengthening & shortening Extensive range of clasps Pearl drilling IMPORTERS AND WHOLESALERS OF PREMIUM

• E-commerce website with pricing for easy online ordering

• Quick dispatch of orders

• Personal customer service

• Happy to help source findings not on our website

Contact Julie on 09-478 9950 or sales@nzfindings.co.nz www.nzfindings.co.nz

Clocks range from traditional to contemporary, Collectables to Grandfathers.

Pronto Clock Company Ltd Ph 07 880 9795 info@prontoclocks.co.nz

GEMS for Design Work & Trade repairs. Sourcing of Gems from the cutters. Hand Engraving, Setting, Sizing, trade repairs. Prompt Turn around of your Jobs.

Richard 021670145, Argosy 03 3669332 141 Holly Rd, Christchurch 8014 argosy.jewellery@gmail.com argosyjewellery.co.nz

Jewellery retail & Manufacturing Business for sale Hokitika

Expressions of interest in the first instance shop@thegoldroom.co.nz Barry Rooney 03 755 8362

Carl Yung Gems Ltd

Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds, Diamonds & Semi-Precious Stones & Jewellery

Fast & Reliable Cutting Services Available. P O Box 109380, Newmarket, Auckland. Ph: 09-623 2078 Email: info@carlyung.com

$150.00 each for Standard Business Card size advertisement $400.00 for 4 issues (1 year) $300.00 each for Double Standard Business Card size advertisement $800.00 for 4 issues (1 year)

Contact: Debbie Whiting, Jewellery Time, PO Box 46 218 Herne Bay Auckland. Phone 09 - 378 1222 – www.jewellerytime.co.nz Email: inklink@xtra.co.nz

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