JT Winter 2025

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Star Gems & Jewe[[ery 0800 DIAMONDS / 0800 342 666 Auckland CBD – PO BOX 105000, Auckland City 1143, Auckland, New Zealand Mobile numbers: Tilak021-541151 Sahil 021-1755113 www.stargems.co.nz info@stargems.co.nz

Supporting the Independent Jeweller for over 40 years.

Benefit from our wealth of knowledge and expertise essential for the modern independent jewellery retailer. We offer support services in marketing, finance, administration, retail, training and education.

Our members also enjoy generous discounts from our diverse network of preferred suppliers.

Join a community of like-minded peers to connect and grow together.

To find out more, contact us today.

Email: enquiries@showcasejewellersgroup.com Phone: +61 2 8566 1800 Visit: showcasejewellers.com.au

Publisher/Advertising Debbie Whiting Mobile: 0274 777 955 debbie@inklink.co.nz www.jewellerytime.co.nz

Editor Debra Douglas Mobile: 021 185 6846 chaucer@xtra.co.nz

2025

Jewellers & Watchmakers 19 Edwin Drive, Trent Park, Prebbleton 7604, New Zealand Executive Secretary: Craig Anderson, Phone +64 (0)21 596 988 info@jwnz.co.nz, www.jwnz.co.nz

The official magazine of The Jewellers and Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

Digital Copies Digital copies of our previous four issues are available at www.jewellerytime.co.nz.

CONTENTS

Terms and Conditions Jewellery Time is the official magazine of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

InkLink Publications Ltd. publishes Jewellery Time on behalf of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.

The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated reserves the right at any time and without notice or liability to any party cancel, omit or alter any editorial or advertisement and the advertiser agrees to indemnify the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and the publisher for all damages or liabilities arising from the published material.

Copyright Reproduction rights in part or full of the contents of this magazine must be obtained with the permission of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated and or the publisher.

Disclaimer The views and opinions expressed in this magazine are purely those of the authors and are not necessarily the official views of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated nor those of the publisher.

UPCOMING JT DEADLINES SPRING 2025 TRADE FAIR SPECIAL BOOKING, EDITORIAL & NEW PRODUCTS: AUGUST 1 ADVERTISING MATERIAL: AUGUST 7 MAGAZINE POSTED: AUGUST 14 SUMMER 2025 BOOKING, EDITORIAL & NEW PRODUCTS: NOVEMBER 5 ADVERTISING MATERIAL: NOVEMBER 12 MAGAZINE POSTED: NOVEMBER 19 AUTUMN 2026 BOOKING, EDITORIAL & NEW PRODUCTS: FEBRUARY 12 ADVERTISING MATERIAL: FEBRUARY 19 MAGAZINE POSTED: FEBRUARY 26 Published by InkLink Publications PO Box 46-218, Herne Bay, Auckland 1147 Design/Prepress by Rex Eade, Ph 027 286 0438, rexeade@gmail.com Printed by Soar Communications Group Ltd (SCG) Registered as a magazine at the GPO, Wellington.

ISSN 1170-9960.

6

Talkback

8

News

24

Town and Around

27

On the prowl

28

WHAT’S HOT

34

It takes two

38

The story of the diamond that seems to hover

40

Cameo to the stars

42

One of a kind

46

JWNZ President’s Report

46

Goldsmiths Guild of NZ

49

JWNZ Executive Notes

50

Jewellery Industry Registration Board

51

New Products and Services Celebrating 60 years as Australian natural coloured diamond specialists, Nina's Jewellery, the only Australian wholesaler with Argyle Pink Diamond Select Atelier status, combines unique arrangements of colour and cut in their sell-out rainbow diamond range, Prism.

Explore it and Rosé: Pink & blue diamond jewellery from the Argyle mine, and Rosewood: Champagne diamond jewellery from the Argyle mine, plus many other contemporary classics, online.

Website: ninasjewellerywholesale.com.au Contact: wholesale@ninas.co Call: +61 04 0836 0892

TALKBACK Introducing Ben Pearce, Operations Manager Fabricated Metal & Minting, Palloys...

Where do you live and who do you share your home with? I live in southwest Sydney with my wife, who is a jeweller, our 15-year-old daughter and a lively household including a dog, four rabbits and three birds.

When and where did your history with fabricated metal begin? My journey with fabricated metals began in the early '90s when I worked in a stainless steel factory, processing huge rolls of metal into sheet, strip, and plasma-cut components. That hands-on experience ignited my passion for metals, leading me to study Jewellery and Object Design at Sydney College of the Arts.

Over the past 25 years, I’ve combined this technical knowledge with a deep understanding of alloys, allowing me to refine and develop some of the highestquality fabricated precious metals in the industry.

Fabricated metals are essential aspects of the jewellery industry, but for those ‘not in the know’, what is fabricated metal used for? Fabricated metals, like gold, silver, and platinum, are used in jewellery for their strength and precision. These metals are formed into sheets, wire and tubes for crafting intricate designs and durable, heirloomquality pieces. At Palloys, we ensure our alloys meet the highest standards.

What does your role at Palloys entail?

I oversee two specialised production sites at Palloys. One is dedicated to fabricated metals, where we work with around 100 different alloys to produce high-quality sheet, tube, embossed metals and a variety of wire profiles.

The other is a minting facility, where we craft gold coins and minted bars with exceptional precision. My role involves ensuring every piece we produce meets Palloys’ high standards for quality, innovation, and durability.

You have a soft spot for ‘bespoke specialised metals’ – what is the attraction? My fascination with bespoke metals began during my studies, where I was drawn to traditional Japanese alloys like Shakudo and Shibuichi.

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These unique materials (copper mixed with gold or silver) can develop rich, beautiful patinas through specialised colouring techniques. Today, I continue to explore these and other custom alloys, including our range of bonded metals, which have gained international recognition, with customers seeking them for their unique properties and aesthetic appeal.

Who do you work beside? I work closely with Palloys’ metallurgists, who bring decades of hands-on experience.

Their expertise in precious metals is crucial in refining our processes and ensuring the highest quality in our products.

The Melbourne Cup is manufactured

by Palloys’ sister company ABC Bullion, are you also involved? Yes, I’ve been involved in the production of the Melbourne Cup for 10 years now. It’s an incredibly rewarding process, given the prestige and history of the trophy.

Most people recognise the main cup, but each year around 60 trophies are produced, including those for the winning jockey, trainer, breeder and strapper.

The future of fabricated metals? For example, what is evolving this year?

At Palloys, we’re constantly looking for ways to enhance our materials and processes. Right now, we’re focused on refining our alloys by adding trace elements to improve grain structure, which enhances workability and durability for both fabrication and casting. These developments help jewellers achieve better results with less effort, whether they’re handcrafting a bespoke piece or producing at scale.

The innovation never stops, we’re always testing, tweaking and pushing boundaries.

What will visitors see on your stand at this year’s JWNZ Spring Trade Fair?

We’re excited to connect with New Zealand’s jewellers at this year’s JWNZ Spring Trade Fair. Visitors can explore our premium jewellery, Livadi Wedding Bands, fabricated metal capabilities,

Ben Pearce

and Palloys Chain and Bracelet range, all made from 100% Australian gold.

We aim to support jewellers with high quality materials and craftsmanship to enhance efficiency and success.

We look forward to building strong relationships in New Zealand. If you’re attending, we’d love to meet you! If not, reach out to our team to learn how we can support your business.

Greatest challenge in your job? Finding time to get hands-on in production. I love the technical side of working with metal, whether it’s shaping stock gauge or taking a 12mm round continuous cast wire and transforming it into a custom profile like half-round or rectangular wire.

How do you relax in your spare time?

Fishing from a kayak, it’s my way of disconnecting from the day-to-day and getting out on the water. I particularly love chasing Kingfish off the coast.

There’s a real skill and patience involved.

Two things that top your bucket list? Attending the Monaco Grand Prix - I’ve always been fascinated by motorsport and the Monaco Grand Prix is the pinnacle of racing. Fishing in remote Alaska, I’m passionate about fishing and the idea of chasing massive King Salmon and Halibut in the wild, untouched waters of Alaska is something I’ve always dreamed of.

Greatest indulgence? Fishing lures, there’s always one more that looks like it could be ‘the one’ for the next big catch.

If there was one luxury item you would like to buy for yourself today, what would that be? A luxury car would be great, but honestly, I’d be happier with a vintage Mini Cooper S.

Long live our story BECKS Rings are crafted to celebrate life’s most meaningful moments and the enduring bonds between two people.

With a diverse collection designed for all kinds of love and commitment, BECKS helps your customers commemorate the milestones that define their lives. As a certified member of the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), we are committed to ethical sourcing and trusted craftsmanship — giving you confidence at every step.

Long live love.

J5224

J4692

HR5251

Rings shown in the main image: J4740, HR4964, and ZRJ44SSBQ.

Toll Free. 0800 443 991 Mary-Louise Squire Tel. +64 21 287 5586 Email. MaryLouiseSquire@becksgroup.au becksgroup.au

2T5279SAF

NEWS WORTH & DOUGLAS PARTNERS WITH FOREST & BIRD New Zealand’s natural beauty has long been a source of inspiration for art, culture, and design. At Worth & Douglas Ltd this deep connection to nature is reflected in its Memento fine jewellery collection, which celebrates New Zealand’s treasured native wildlife and plants. The company is now going one step further - by partnering with Forest & Bird to support conservation work across the country.

Through this initiative, Worth & Douglas will donate $5 to Forest & Bird for every Memento Flora & Fauna piece sold; helping to protect and restore New Zealand’s landscapes, rivers, oceans and native species.

“We take great pride in creating jewellery that holds meaning for people. With our Memento Flora & Fauna collection, each piece represents a connection to New Zealand’s unique wildlife. By partnering with Forest & Bird we hope to give back to the

AND THE AWARD GOES TO…

The JAA Australasian Jewellery Awards are back to celebrate the most exciting talent across Australia and New Zealand. Significant prizes are up for grabs in every category and the coveted Jeweller of the Year will win return flights and accommodation to the 2026 KKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show.

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environment that inspires us and ensure that these taonga are protected for generations to come,” said Chris Worth.

To support the initiative, Worth & Douglas is providing retailers with dedicated POS materials and social media content, with further promotion through Forest & Bird’s channels.

“The collaboration with Worth & Douglas through the Memento Flora

& Fauna collection is a natural fit for Forest & Bird”, said Alexandra Moyes of Forest & Bird. “Beautiful pieces, inspired by nature and made to last. People often have a personal connection to a particular native species. By wearing jewellery from the Memento range they can express this connection, spark conversation and know they have given a donation to protect and restore species and habitats too.”

All entries will be showcased at the Sydney Jewellery Industry Fair, 26-27 September.

Categories: Debuting, Precious Metal, Colour, Diamond, CAD/CAM/CAST, Contemporary, Sketch, People’s Choice Award, Jewellery of the Year.

Key dates: Online entry form: 1 July-7 August Physical entries due: 24 July- 7 August Judging day: 11 August Finalists notified by: 15 August Awards soiree: 26 September For more information jaa.com.au/2025

Auctions Private Sales Valuations webbs.co.nz

Sell With Us

wellington 23 Marion Street Te Aro Wellington, 6011 04 555 6001 auckland 33a Normanby Rd Mount Eden Auckland, 1024 09 529 5600

Webb's Fine Jewels, Watches & Luxury Accessories Department is seeking entries for upcoming auctions.

Revamp your stock assortment and let us offer you a complimentary appraisal. In particular, we are seeking period pieces of exceptional provenance from the Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco eras, along with exquisite modern and contemporary jewels.

Designs include diamond, coloured stone rings, bracelets, earrings and pendants as exemplified by the recent sale of a platinum, handmade 3.02ct round brilliant cut/.63ct pear diamond ring for $53,775 (including buyer's premium).

Highly sought-after are quality timepieces of Swiss manufacturer, including vintage, antique and modern.

Gold pocket watches are also having a resurgence. Coveted brands include Patek Philippe, Rolex, OMEGA, Cartier, Audemars Piguet and Tag Heuer, to name a few.

Luxury accessories and handbags from international Maisons, such as Hermès, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior, Bottega Veneta, and Gucci are immensely desirable and consistently achieve good results at auction.

Our auctions showcase premium items as well as pieces for everyday wear— from rare collectables to timeless essentials.

Contact us today or refer a client for a complimentary appraisal.

We would love to hear from you. request appraisal

Christine Power Head of Fine Jewels, Watches & Luxury Accessories AJP (GIA) christinep@webbs.co.nz +64 27 929 5607

NEWS INTERNATIONAL DESIGN AWARD WINNER

Australia’s Nadia Neuman took out the Champion of Champions awards at the 7th International Jewellery Design Excellence Award (IJDE) at the HKTDC International Jewellery Show. See page 37.

Sydney based designer and owner of Mondial by Nadia, Nadia comes from a rich history of jewellers with the Neuman family being one of the very first jewellers to purchase pink diamonds directly from the Argyle Mine. Their family legacy extends to multiple areas of the industry with Nadia now at the helm of the business with her boutique in The Strand Arcade, Sydney.

The piece, an 18ct yellow and white gold pendant which features 32.26cts of coloured and white diamonds, is designed with interchangeable components to be worn in several ways. It also features a fully functional kaleidoscope, showcasing the beauty and versatility of natural coloured diamonds in both polished and rough forms.

Nadia said the judges said her piece showed “heart and passion and it was so nice to see something so unique and from Australia”.

IDENTIFYING AND VERIFYING

De Beers Group has announced that its innovative retail-facing diamond verification device, DiamondProof, has landed in select American retail stores for the first time, giving consumers the ability to witness just how quickly the device can distinguish natural diamonds

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from non-natural diamonds, such as laboratory-grown diamonds (LGDs) and diamond simulants. Thus providing a tool for retailers to help educate their customers on the differences between natural diamonds and other products.

With research showing that almost half

of consumers are unaware that LGDs can be readily detected, this easy-touse device will enable retailers to show their customers just how quickly natural diamonds can be identified.

The verification process, which depends on identifying the distinct chemical compositions that reveal a natural diamond, works with both loose diamonds and finished jewels. Once the item in question is placed in the tray and the device is started, an image of the item appears on the machine’s touchscreen. If the item glows blue, the diamond is natural. If it glows yellow, it requires further testing.

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact: Helen Finlayson - The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact: Helen Finlayson - The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

L AB DIAMONDS

BY DGA

JT2025 WINTER 11

NEWS WITH STORIES TO TELL

This month marks a decade of the Steph Lusted Jewellery & Objets d’art Showroom on Whitmore Street in central Wellington and Steph is celebrating this milestone by curating a group exhibition of 12 artists and craftspeople entitled ‘Myths & Legends’. Each artist portrays a myth or legend

in their work.

Participating artists: Angela Tier, Di Tocker, Gareth McGhie, Hanne Eriksen Mapp, Johnathan Percy, Ken Auton, Owen Mapp, Sean Syman, Stacy Gordine, Stephen Myhre, Tony Williams and Steph Lusted.

‘The Swan Maiden’ by Steph Lusted Materials: Sterling silver, 24ct gold leaf, 9ct yellow gold, 9ct red gold, handcrafted lead crystal glass, moonstones, bronze, natural mother-of-pearl shell.

Steph: “The Swan Maiden Objet d’art is a visual ode to the Swan Maiden Myth. The swan, crafted in sterling silver, can be lifted off the glass lake and held in one’s hand. She has a hinged section in her feather cloak, which reveals a secret compartment to store a keepsake. She glides across a lake of glass which sits inside a large, natural, mother-of-pearl shell.

The shell itself is supported by fish and eels crafted in bronze.

“The Swan Maiden is accompanied on the lake by three freshwater fish, a giant Kokopu and an Upland and Redfin Bully, each native to New Zealand. Nestled on the shore of the lake to one side, is a pile of river stones with moonstones set in amongst the sterling silver pebbles. On the other side of the lake is a cluster of water lily pads crafted in sterling silver, with droplets of water represented as moonstones.”

‘Red-crowned Crane’ by Steph Lusted Materials: Mammoth ivory, 18ct yellow gold, sterling silver, garnet x2 (small garnet in crown 7x5mm/ large garnet in toggle 10x16mm), black woven cord.

Steph: “I have long admired the red-crowned crane that features so often in Japanese art and handcrafted items. As a symbol of good luck, longevity and happiness, the crane also symbolises a lifelong partnership.

“Carved from ancient mammoth ivory, this piece features a rich red garnet set in 18ct yellow gold adorning the crown of the bird. The toggle also features a larger deep red garnet set in 18ct yellow gold. This piece is suspended from black woven cord and sits well on its own as an objet d'art when not being worn.”

‘White Boar’ brooch by Tony Williams Materials: 18ct gold, sterling silver, enamel, whale ivory, black pearl (dyed), onyx, fitted wooden jewellery box.

Tony: “This started life after seeing a magnificent Victorian Boars Tusk brooch in an antique shop. It was gone of course by the time I went back to buy it, so I had to make one myself and it grew from there. Referencing it back to Ireland, it’s in the form of a ring brooch with a left-hand thread screw pin.”

Exhibition: Myths & Legends, 1st-31st May 2025, Steph Lusted Jewellery & Objets d’art, 17 Whitmore Street, Wellington.

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CAD Our in house team of CAD operators work with the latest version of MatrixGold and produce extremely high quality CAD models and photorealistic renders.

Enjoy the experience of using local CAD designers today.

Manufacturing Our highly skilled jewellers and setters perform a range of manufacturing services including casting cleanup, setting, polishing, plating and engraving.

Outsource your manufacturing needs to Jewellery Services.

Repair & Servicing Partnering with us means your business can confidently deliver unmatched craftsmanship and timely repair and servicing to every customer.

Enhance your profitability by increasing your repair revenue with us.

09 414 2526 | trade@jewelleryservices.co.nz

NEWS SWISS BRAND TO BE REVIVED

The watchmaker that Orville and Wilbur Wright used to time the first-ever powered airplane flight at Kitty Hawkin in 1903 and that produced, according to President Harry S. Truman, “the most elaborate wristwatch I ever saw” is now a part of the Breitling family.

Breitling has announced it has acquired Gallet and would soon relaunch the historic brand, founded in 1826 and well-known for its use in racing, aviation, and off-road

expeditions. The brand also pioneered waterproof chronographs with the introduction of the MultiChron Clamshell in 1938.

Gallet’s fame has faded to obscurity over time. Like other companies in the Swiss watch industry, it was hurt by the quartz crisis of the 1970s and ’80s.

Breitling said Gallet will return to the marketplace in 2026. While no further details were released, the new owner indicated in its statement that Gallet

A RARE FIND

Rio Tinto has unearthed one of the largest gem-quality yellow diamonds ever discovered in Canada, from its Diavik Diamond Mine. The 158.20ct rough diamond was discovered 200km south of the Arctic Circle in the remote Northwest Territories of Canada.

It is one of only five yellow diamonds weighing more than 100 carats ever unearthed at Diavik in its 22-year history. Diavik’s production primarily consists of white gem quality

will be positioned as a luxury, yet entrylevel sibling brand to Breitling, keeping its legacy and name secure. diamonds, with less than one percent of its production yielding rare yellow diamonds.

Diavik Diamond Mines Chief Operating Officer Matt Breen said, “This two-billion-year old, natural Canadian diamond, is a miracle of nature and testament to the skill and fortitude of all the men and women who work in Diavik’s challenging subArctic environment.”

ESSE brooches Antique styles, classic styles, art deco styles, bows, bars and whimsical animals.

Our wee frog is out to woo Mrs Owl with the ruby eyes.

Both crafted from sterling silver, owl has enamelled accents and ruby eyes while frog sports a large umbrella. Both are bead set with Swarovski marcasites and would make a great addition to a coat, hat, bag or traditional lapel.

something for everyone Contact: AM Imports Pty Ltd, NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P. 021 751 115 or E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

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New Zealand’s first and only certified Responsible Jewellery Supplier morrisandwatson.com

0800 500 654

NEWS FABERGÉ MENAGERIE

A group of rare Fabergé animals originating from country home Castle Howard are set to debut at auction at Sotheby’s.

Castle Howard has for generations been home to one of the most important collecting dynasties in Britain. The estate, a country house in the hills of North Yorkshire, features antiquities, paintings, furniture and works of art, including one of the last important groups of Fabergé animals in private hands.

The animals, crafted with Fabergé’s

whimsical charm, are characterised by their use of hardstones and diversity of scale. They range from a vole to an anteater and are generally small enough to fit in one’s hand.

Nicholas Howard, whose family have lived at Castle Howard for more than 300 years, commented: “I’m sad to be losing this beautiful collection, but it deserves to be seen more often than it currently is. And the proceeds of the sale will assist us in the re-creation of the Tapestry Drawing Room, which was damaged in a 1940 fire.”

A rare Fabergé jewelled bloodstone model of an anteater, St Petersburg, 1887-1900 (estimate: £45,000-65,000).

A Fabergé jewelled agate model of a Siberian ibex, St Petersburg, 1900-1914 (estimate: £45,000-65,000).

PEARL & OPAL JEWELLERY STYLED BY NATURE

wholesale.ikecho.com.au | +61 9266 0636 | enquiries@ikecho.com.au

16 JT2025 WINTER wholesale.ikecho.com.au | 02203 9266137 0636 | enquiries@ikecho.com.au NZ Agent: Fabuleux Vous I +64 0274

The pieces on offer range in scale from a tiny vole carved of smoky quartz to a large obsidian rhinoceros.

A gold-mounted owl-figure (estimate: £40,000-60,000).

0061 3 9663 2321 INFO@ATHAN.COM.AU WWW.ATHAN.COM.AU 602/220 COLLINS ST, MELBOURNE VIC 3000 AUSTRALIA

NEWS DIAMOND ACUPUNCTURE AND A FOREVER RADIANT SKIN?

Los Angeles-based designer Suzanne Kalan has collaborated on a diamond-infused luxurious skin care treatment that blends the Natura Bissé brand products with Kalan’s rose-cut diamonds. The Diamond Acu-Energy Facial x Suzanne Kalan is now available for spa clients at Dorchester Collection hotels in the London area, to mark the grand openings of their wellness spas.

“I am a big believer in natural beauty and harnessing nature to make women feel amazing. This is such a huge part of why I love designing and creating jewellery, and so this partnership made such sense to me,” said Kalan.

Priced at £600, the special treatment is like acupuncture, but with diamonds instead of needles. It is designed to rejuvenate the skin and promote overall well-being, Kalan says.

“People call me the Queen of Diamonds, which makes me happy. I come from a family of jewellers, as does my husband. We’ve worked with stones and sourced stones for over 40 years. I am so passionate about finding the perfect stone, then creating the perfect design so that someone can feel incredible, create memories and love each piece I make.

“Diamonds are powerful, with properties that reduce stress and anxiety. To find stones for the Suzanne Kalan x Natura Bissé treatments at the Dorchester was the same, they had to have the right facets, bring incredible cleansing energy, but also be comfortable in the treatment.”

MAGIC IS IN THE AIR

NZ Distributer helen@fabuleuxvous.com HELEN: +64 274 203 137

From Garrard, the Couture Enchanted Night serpentine necklace weaves its magic, sprinkling precious green gemstones across the mossy forest floor, watched over by a graceful dragonfly. A mystic match of 18ct white gold with tourmalines, chrysoprase, emeralds and diamonds.

Also from Garrard, its latest Lotus Collection where diamonds and ombré gemstones shimmer in dynamic compositions, echoing the natural harmony of its namesake flower. The ring and ear climbers are 18ct white gold with purple sapphires and diamonds.

CUDWORTH.COM.AU 18 JT2025 WINTER

NEWS LOCAL IDENTITY DIES IN PLANE CRASH Retired jeweller and former Gore resident Ivan van de Water, (65), died on March 29th while taking part in an event organised by the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association NZ. The plane went down in a remote part of the Dingle Burn Valley, east of Lake Hawea and north of Wanaka.

Gore Deputy Mayor Keith Hovell said Ivan was “an extremely well-respected businessman and person” in the town, having owned van de Water Jewellers with his wife Miriam in the town’s CBD for 38 years.

“He was very active in terms of promoting what I’ve described as Main St Gore, in terms of keeping it as a vibrant place. He was a delightful

person if you were dealing with him, both in his shop; very patient and in terms of the work that he was doing through the local businessmen’s group to promote things happening in town,” said Keith.

“He was always keen to see the town thrive. He put a lot of time and energy into ensuring that Main Street remained an attractive and welcoming place for both locals and visitors.”

Selling jewellery was a "beautiful trade", Ivan once said. "You’re dealing with beautiful things and one of the highlights is that you are part of very special times in people’s lives and that’s a real honour."

Though Ivan and Miriam retired to

Ivan van de Water.

Wanaka in 2021, the Gore shop now owned by Brad and Megan Lamb, still bears his name.

NATIONWIDE MEMBER BENEFITS Nationwide Jewellers recently held its exclusive Retail Jewellery Business Course in Christchurch, bringing together jewellers from across the country for an intensive day of learning.

Presented by Nationwide Managing Director Colin Pocklington and Membership Manager Erin Keller, the course covered the essential elements of running a successful jewellery business, including: • Financial Mastery – Understanding Profit & Loss Accounts, Balance Sheets, and POS reports.

• Industry Benchmarks – How key metrics can drive profitability and improve cash flow.

• Marketing Strategy – Developing an annual marketing plan and strengthening digital presence.

• Inventory Optimisation – Managing stock efficiently for maximum returns.

• Business Valuation – How to assess a store’s worth and, more importantly, increase its value.

Since its launch in 2019, more than 180 Nationwide members have completed the course, gaining valuable insights into retail best practices.

Nationwide has also announced increased financial support for their apprentices in 2025. For the 16th consecutive year, the Apprentice Assistance subsidy has provided 20 JT2025 WINTER

Pictured at the Christchurch course, from left, Colin Pocklington, Managing Director, Nationwide Jewellers; Jasmine Stowel, Diamond & Co, Mt Maunganui; Dean Crossan, Time for Diamonds, Ashburton; Glenis Palmer, Aspiring Jewellers, Wanaka; Aimee White, The Ringmakers, Timaru; Megan Lamb, van de Water Jewellers, Gore; Nicola Crossan, Time for Diamonds, Ashburton; Brad Lamb, van de Water Jewellers, Gore; Brent White, The Ringmakers, Timaru; Brent Morrison, Petersens Jewellers, Upper Riccarton; Gina Botham, GMW Jewellery, Blenheim; Erin Enright, Precious Metals and Sense & Wonder, Hamilton; Tracye Byrne, Precious Metals and Sense & Wonder, Hamilton; Kerry Phillips , Country Jewel, Winton; Suzanne Mathers and John Mathers, Mathers Jewellery & Time, Oamaru.

valuable financial aid to Nationwide members’ apprentices.

To align with the cost of living pressures and further support the next generation of jewellers’ apprentices will now be able to choose between $700 in cash to assist with tertiary fees, or an $800 tools voucher, up from $400 and

$500, respectively.

These vouchers can be redeemed at Australian Jewellers Supplies (Australia) or G & A Warburtons (New Zealand), both of whom have generously supported this initiative since its inception.

EXPLORE THE RANGE

Chain, Bracelets & Charms At Palloys, we don’t just create jewellery, we perfect it. Our range of chain, bracelets and charms are crafted with unparalleled attention to detail, ensuring each piece meets the highest standards of design and durability.

Chain & Bracelets crafted in Italy from 100% Certified Australian Gold Charms available in any alloy No minimum order quantities Available now at Palloys.com for immediate dispatch

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Best Quality, Price and Service, Every Time, Guaranteed PALLOYS.COM

0800 446 491

NEWS RED AND RARE

A team of scientists from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), collaborating with their colleagues from the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History Department of Mineral Sciences and the curator from the Paris School of Mines, recently examined the Winston Red diamond - a very rare 2.33 carat red diamond - which is now on display at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C. The Winston Red diamond is the fifth-largest diamond with an exceptionally pure red colour known to exist and the only such red diamond on public exhibit.

“The Winston Red diamond is one of the most exquisite gems on earth, from its unparalleled deep-red colour to its rich history,” said Susan Jacques, GIA president and CEO. “Natural fancycoloured diamonds are very scarce and red diamonds are exceedingly rare treasures of Mother Nature. Just two dozen pure red diamonds over one carat exist in the public record.

Evaluating this spectacular gem is a scientific milestone for GIA.” Through careful analysis using advanced instrumentation and drawing on decades of research, GIA scientists and their collaborators were able to

A LIGHT TOUCH

Feathers as light as air lead Chanel’s 2025 Plume de Chanel high jewellery collection. Chanel set sights on Gabrielle Chanel's early diamond jewellery design of a feather for its latest high jewellery collection.

Feathers have featured consistently in the designer's work. As early as 1910, Gabrielle Chanel included feathers into her creations when she added a single outsized, billowing feather to a large-

Plume Couture de Chanel bracelet shimmers with a 2.02ct white pear-shaped diamond and pink sapphires.

22 JT2025 WINTER

determine the cause of the diamond’s rare colour and its possible geographic origin, which is most likely Brazil or Venezuela, based on its mineralogical characteristics and history.

“When the Winston Red was recently submitted to GIA for grading, I immediately recalled examining it in 1987, it is an unforgettable diamond,” said Tom Moses, GIA executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer. “The Winston Red diamond is a historic and very rare diamond; its old mine cut, deep red hue and inclusions tell a story that can be traced back to September 1938 when Jacques Cartier sold the stone to the Indian Maharaja of Nawanagar.”

“It’s as if the diamond was squeezed and now is intensely blushing,” said Dr. Ulrika D’Haenens-Johansson, senior manager of diamond research at GIA in New York City. “The reason why so few diamonds are red has eluded scientists for generations. Our detailed examination of the Winston Red, supplemented by data from other red diamonds evaluated over decades by GIA, uniquely positions us to probe this question. We can attribute the colour to features introduced by plastic deformation - subtle changes

to the diamond’s crystal structure caused by a long and stressful history under tremendous heat and pressure deep within the earth. The highly concentrated red colour, along with its documented history, makes this diamond extraordinary.”

Only one in 10,000 diamonds has a noticeable fancy colour outside of the subtle colour range normally associated with colourless diamonds. Of the more than one million coloured diamonds examined by GIA, only 0.07% are red and just over half of those received the coveted GIA colour grade of ‘Fancy red’ given to the Winston Red. The Winston Red is the centrepiece of a new exhibit of fancy colour, natural diamonds at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History.

The exhibit features 40 other gems from the ‘Winston Fancy Color Diamond Collection’, gifted to the museum by Ronald Winston, the son of distinguished jeweller and gem collector Harry Winston.

brimmed hat Two decades later, Mademoiselle Chanel created Bijoux de Diamants, diamond jewellery that broke with the tradition of stiff, conventional

creations. As Mademoiselle Chanel said: “My jewellery is never detached from the idea of a woman and her dress.

Because dresses change, jewellery, too, is evolving.”

Asymmetrical and mismatched, the Plume Libre de Chanel pair of brooches are set with a 5.29ct pink sapphire and a 1.5ct D Flawless diamond.

A 5.04ct cushion-cut pink sapphire sits at the centre of the Plume Couture de Chanel necklace. The two tiers of diamonds can be removed or joined to create a long sautoir chain.

PROUD SUPPORTER OF

FOREST & BIRD $5 donation per piece sold The $5 donation per piece sold applies to items from the Memento New Zealand Flora & Fauna collection by Worth & Douglas Ltd

Toll Free: 0800 734 477 | sales@worthdouglas.co.nz | www.worthdouglas.com

TOWN AND AROUND Meet Mieke van Dam, an artist jeweller based in Nelson …

Tell us about your background in the jewellery industry, when and where did it all begin? I began my jewellery career relatively late in life, while doing a Diploma in Art and Design at the Sir John Cass School of Art in Whitechapel, London. As part of the course I undertook a jewellery module and was hooked! After three years hard work, I graduated with a specialisation in silver smithing and jewellery. Unfortunately, tough economic times in London for artists in the late 80’s/early 90’s meant that I had to concentrate on my day job (running a kidney transplantation laboratory at St Mary’s Hospital) and it wasn’t until we ‘retired’ to New Zealand in 2005 that I was able to think about getting our jewellery business up and running.

When and why did you choose Nelson as the base for your business? I am originally from Whanganui, but when we came home, we travelled around the South Island and immediately fell in love with Nelson. It has a wonderfully diverse artistic base, brilliant weather and an inspirational natural environment.

Who do you work beside? And their background and role in the business?

My husband Andy is my minion - we met in London in 1990 and although he had very little experience in retail (he was a Professor of Medical Microbiology at Guy’s Hospital in London), he has adapted brilliantly to life as my office manager, my social media guru and my chief procurer of fine gemstones. Back in 2019 I took the opportunity to do

NELSON

some further training in Birmingham’s jewellery quarter in the UK, while Andy went and studied with Kate Hopley, who is an excellent teacher of all things gemmological - this really gave his skills a boost.

Coloured gemstone rings make up the vast majority of what Mieke sells.

Mieke Van Dam and husband Andy.

Precious Gem Imports Ltd

DIAMONDS OF DISTINCTION Roger McKinnon

Joy Thavat

Freephone 0800 PGI GEM or 0800 744 436 24 JT2025 WINTER

Describe your workplace/studio… I work from home in our converted garage workshop, which has plenty of space and a lovely view of the garden.

With your designer hat on … your creations are inspired by? I love bright, bold colours and always have. So inevitably I’m drawn to the coloured gem stones (I work relatively infrequently with diamonds). I love the interplay of different coloured metals, so many of my pieces feature yellow gold and silver.

Often customers will tell you they are ‘gold people’ or ‘silver people’, but I’ve always found that the interplay of the two metals has so much more to offer than one or the other. As so much of my work is commission based (perhaps 80% of it), one has to allow the client to make as much or as little of a contribution to the design as they feel happy to do within technical limitations of course!

Do you also offer a re-modelling service? I frequently re-model ‘old’ jewellery for my customers - there is nothing more rewarding than transforming neglected pieces from

Morganite set in rose gold in a triple silver/ palladium and rose gold band.

the bottom of someone’s drawer into wonderful contemporary jewels that demand to be worn and which will be the heirlooms of tomorrow. The process can be a long one and involves a great deal of consultation with the client.

Often the original pieces come from very dear family members and it is essential that the new design reflects that.

Where is your work seen and available?

Our main point of sale is the internet via social media (Facebook and Instagram) and via our webpage, as we do not have a physical store front. At one time we had our pieces in more than a dozen NZ galleries (and one gallery in Rarotonga), but changes to the retail environment has seen us shrink that number to just two – Form Gallery in Christchurch and Real Aotearoa in Wellington. We do have quite a number of clients in Australia and have sold pieces in the European market and the US, but post covid changes to international shipping insurance has made sending jewellery overseas more difficult.

customers ... are they a ‘predictable’ type, or are they more disparate and perhaps surprise you sometimes?

Social media analysis tells us that demographically most of our clients are in the over 35 age range. As a group I think they are attracted to the colour and vibrancy of my pieces and if they generally seem to come from diverse backgrounds, many of them do seem to share an ‘artistic’ leaning. However, despite having been in business for nearly 20 years you can still get some very surprising design requests sometimes a client has to be let down gently as to what is actually possible.

What are your current best-selling pieces? Coloured gemstone rings make up the vast majority of what we sell, we have particular success with birthstone rings and family rings. The colour blue resonates particularly with our clients, so aquamarines, topaz and sapphires are top sellers in terms of gems.

How would you describe your

What do you think are the most important skills for someone in the trade to have? I believe my most

Cushion cut London blue topaz, flanked by Swiss blue topaz, all in yellow gold.

Custom cut prasiolite flanked by red spinels, all in yellow gold.

COLOURED GEMSTONES

NEW ZEALAND’S PREMIUM GEMSTONE STOCKIST P.O. Box 37597 Parnell, Auckland Phone (09) 3778 038 Email sales@preciousgem.co.nz Fax (09) 309 6807 Website www.preciousgem.co.nz JT2025 WINTER 25

important skill is listening to the customer, as so much of our work is commission based it is essential that the views and ideas of the customer are front and centre of any project. Of course some customers will provide just the vaguest outline of what they want and effectively give me free rein on the design. Others will have very detailed ideas of what they want whatever the degree of input, it must be respected. Of course, you then have to have the technical skills to bring the design to fruition…

Your favourite gems to work with?

My favourite gems? The coloured ones of course! Tourmalines would be my absolute favourite, because of their breadth and diversity of colour (even within a single stone). I have a particular weakness for Paraiba tourmalines, which is a dangerously expensive obsession.

Your favourite piece of personal jewellery? My favourite piece is the ring I designed and made for our 25th wedding anniversary. Andy secretly bought diamonds and emeralds from Wards in Hatton Garden in London and was going to commission another jeweller to make the piece, but in the end decided who better to make it than the person who was going to wear it.

What keeps you motivated about the industry? Regarding motivation, if I see new tools I am motivated to buy them!

New kit is constantly being brought to the market and I am always temped. I also love the fact that there are new metals becoming available too. I am a

Mieke Van Dam, inspired by bright bold colours.

great fan of the silver/palladium alloys that are now readily accessible.

How do you relax away from the business? Andy and I are madly keen underwater photographers, he takes videos and I take stills (to avoid too much competition). We try to get away to the tropics at least twice a year to indulge our passion - the Philippines is our current favourite diving destination. At home I am a gardening nut and orchids have become my new obsession - the house is rapidly becoming one vast orchid nursery.

Plans for the future? I can’t say we do have any immediate plans - carpe diem is our motto and if you are busy seizing the day I guess the future tends to just look after itself.

People photos by Debbie Whiting.

“Commission for a lady who had a Cook Island pearl pendant and ring and wanted a remodel. As her birthday was in February we decided that an amethyst incorporated into the design was appropriate. The wave pattern was to symbolise the ocean.”

26 JT2025 WINTER

On the prowl The panther is one of Cartier’s most enduring symbols. The famous panther image first became associated with the company in 1914, appearing in a painting commissioned by Louis Cartier. The painting, Dame à la Panthère by French artist George Barbier, was intended as part of an invitation to a Parisian jewellery exhibition, but was so highly valued by Louis that it became an integral part of Cartier’s advertising.

It depicted a woman, beautifully dressed, with a black panther at her feet.

This set off a new chapter for Cartier, with the launch of the first piece of panther-inspired jewellery that very same year, a wristwatch dial set with onyx and diamonds.

The woman responsible for transforming the ‘big cat’ from a dial motif into a 20th-century icon, however, was Jeanne Toussaint, who in 1933 became Cartier’s Creative Director of Jewellery, a groundbreaking achievement in a male-dominated industry. Toussaunt was known for her bold personality, impeccable style, creative spirit and her penchant for wearing luxurious panther fur coats.

She set about moving the famous house away from abstract Art Deco

designs towards realism. Adoring panthers, she confessed that many of her creations were inspired by the creature’s elegance and posture.

By the time she retired from Cartier in 1970, Jeanne Toussaint had left an indelible mark on the world of high jewellery. Cartier Panthère remains one of the most desirable jewellery collections in the world. Vintage and modern Panthère pieces continue to fetch impressive prices at auctions, attracting collectors and connoisseurs alike. One of the most expensive Cartier Panthère bracelets, a platinum and 18ct white gold piece featuring two confronting panthers set with pavé diamonds, onyx spots and emerald eyes, sold for more than US$500,000 at Sotheby’s in 2022.

Publicity poster using the ‘Dame à la Panthère’ painting by George Barbier for Cartier.

Panthère de cartier' ring, designed as a gold and lacquer head of a panther, set with peridot eyes and onyx nose.

Panthère brooch designed as a diamond set panther with an onyx nose and emerald eyes.

Cartier 1914 wristwatch with panther-spots motif features a round case in polished platinum, paved with rose-cut diamonds and onyx. Image: Tania & Vincent © Cartier.

Gold, diamond, emerald and onyx Panthère tassel bracelet.

18ct white gold, diamond and emerald Panthère earclips.

A panther clip brooch made for Duchess of Windsor by Cartier Paris, 1949. Platinum, white gold, single-cut diamonds, two pearshaped yellow diamonds, one 152.35ct Kashmir sapphire cabochon and sapphire cabochons.

JT2025 WINTER 27

JT presents a special

WHAT’S HOT

preview of a selection of the latest product to be showcased at the

2025 JWNZ Spring Trade Fair

Viaduct Events Centre, Auckland

September 14th

NZ Handmade Chain Any way you want it! Change the colour, carat, length or even mix the links!

We make beautiful chain in house so the options are endless.

Contact: 09 638 7378 sales@regal.co.nz

Coeur de Lion Gorgeous German handmade jewellery, offering an exciting new Crystal Pearl and cube design for a sophisticated and timeless style.

Contact: Timesupply, P +61 8 8221 5580 sales@timesupply.com.au, timesupply.com.au

28 JT2025 WINTER

PLEIN SPORT PSDGA0525 Introducing the Metronaut by Plein Sport, a refined fusion of athletic spirit and timeless elegance, featuring a 36mm case, rich green dial, and sophisticated two-tone bracelet Ladies $495.00

CE240924 1.29ct Vivid Royal Blue Emerald cut Sri Lankan Sapphire (6.62 x 5.48 x 3.66mm)

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaacessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au

Contact: Orange River +61 7 3012 9032 Brisbane@orangeriver.com.au www.orangeriver.com.au

18-1002 SMKY Lovely statement cocktail ring in rich brown smokey quartz. Crafted in sterling silver and bead set with Swarovski marcasites.

Perfect for any occasion.

C11528 Stand out with this beautiful clover ladies design from the trendy OOZOO Timepieces collection.

Contact: AM Imports Pty Ltd NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P: 021 751 115 E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

Contact: OOZOO Timepieces +61 466 668 883 info@oozoo.com.au www.oozoo.com.au

Elevating style with bold and timeless sterling silver signet rings, set with either lapis lazuli, tiger’s eye, turquoise or malachite, available in sterling silver or 9ct Gold.

Contact: 09 303 4666 WORTHDOUGLAS.COM

LGER-68106-006-YGold Fresh Water Pearl Hoop Earrings.

Elevate your elegance with the perfect fusion of modern brilliance and timeless beauty. These Freshwater Pearls Gold Hoop Earrings from LAB Diamonds by DGA showcase luminous, hand-selected freshwater pearls paired with the refined sparkle of lab-grown diamonds. Set on radiant gold hoops, the design balances classic charm with contemporary luxury.

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

Gold Earrings: View our beautiful range of new gold earrings including our stunning new huggies.

Contact info@peka.co.nz www.peka.co.nz, Ph: 0800 892 432

Distell colour & dia jewellery 9ct WG Blue Topaz & Dia Ring 9ct RG Rhodolite Gar & Dia Ring Contact: NZ Agent Paul Kerr paul@paulkerragencies.com Sydney Contact: Peter +612 92648660 peter@distell.com.au

Georgini Midnight Velvet Black Agate Bracelet RRP NZ$289 Make a statement with GEORGINI’S Midnight Velvet Fairwater Bracelet—crafted in 18k gold e-coated Sterling Silver with a bold black agate clover and shimmering stone-set edging for timeless, modern elegance.

Contact: Rachael McLeod: New Zealand Country Manager +64 022 570 3203 rachael@westendcollection.com.au www.georgini.com.au

Najo’s Moonkiss earrings The best sellers from our latest Eclipse Collection – are available in both sterling silver and 14ct gold plate.

Contact: Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent Ph: +64 27 722 6000 www.najo.com.au

Nomination Italy Composable Over 90 fabulous new link designs in the Composable Collection. Made in Italy, with sterling silver, 18k gold, and 9k rose gold.

Generates excellent repeat business.

Contact: Timesupply, P +61 8 8221 5580 sales@timesupply.com.au, timesupply.com.au

ROCHET HB01782: Major 2. 7mm IP Bio grey polished steel bracelet. Adjustable. RRP $150 Contact: 03 356 3587 www.pacifictime.co.nz

TIMEX TW2Y12900 Packed with features like a tide tracker, air and water temperature sensor, and analogue compass, all powered by a bold orange fourth hand, our Tide-Temp-Compass is the ultimate tool for tech-savvy adventurers Mens $549.95 Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaacessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au

9TE0294- 9k Gold Two Tone Earrings.

Add timeless elegance to your jewellery collection with these stunning two tone earrings by 9k Gold by DGA. Expertly crafted from genuine 9k gold, these earrings feature a sophisticated blend of warm yellow gold and sleek white gold, creating a subtle contrast that enhances their classic appeal.

TED BAKER BKPHAS506 Introducing the Haarvin, a 44mm gunmetal chronograph with a sleek black dial and tan leather strap - modern style with a classic touch. Mens $310.00

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaacessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au

LBA/001 Discover the perfect balance between simplicity and style with the “Archie” bracelet.

Contact: Steel & Barnett +61 466 668 883 info@steelandbarnett.com.au www.steelandbarnett.com.au

NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS. Stand out from your competitors with EXCLUSIVE PRODUCT RANGES. Includes finance & marketing support.

Contact: Nationwide Jewellers Ph +61 2 9418 0000 www.nationwidejewellers.com

Pearl Earrings: Alongside our huge range of pearls we have some beautiful new drop earrings that are proving to be very popular.

Najo’s sterling silver Gravity Bangle Embodies the mystical connection between the Moon and the Earth. Available in both 62mm and 66mm interior diameter.

Contact: Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent Ph: +64 27 722 6000 www.najo.com.au

13399 18k yellow gold Graduating bezel set Natural Diamond Tennis bracelet (67=1.21cts) G SI 18cm

Contact info@peka.co.nz www.peka.co.nz, Ph: 0800 892 432

Contact: Orange River +61 7 3012 9032 Brisbane@orangeriver.com.au www.orangeriver.com.au

Nomination Italy Fashion Jewellery New ready-to-wear jewellery from this iconic Italian Brand. From the elegant Fashion Era range to the fun Emosphere collection.

The sparkling Shine Me Up range features popular motifs such as hearts, butterflies and this year’s favourite – bows.

43-308 PER Elegant teardrop peridot earrings, crafted in sterling silver and bead set with Swarovski marcasites (Matching pendant available 72-827 PER).

Contact: Timesupply P +61 8 8221 5580 sales@timesupply.com.au timesupply.com.au

Contact: AM Imports Pty Ltd NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P: 021 751 115 E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS. Build your brand and market with confidence utilising Nationwide’s MARKETING SUPPORT tool box. Web Solutions. Social Media Support. Marketing Resource Library.

CANVA Design Suite.

Contact: Nationwide Jewellers Ph +61 2 9418 0000 www.nationwidejewellers.com

UNOde50 The Ser Camaleonica collection offers an iconic and bold design with sparkling dark green crystals set in an organic triangular design, handmade in Spain. If you are looking for truly unique statement jewellery with organic styling, UNOde50 delivers.

Contact: Timesupply, P +61 8 8221 5580 sales@timesupply.com.au, timesupply.com.au

Paperclip Chain: Explore NZ’s largest selection of STG, 9ct/18ct Gold and platinum chain featuring the stunning paperclip range!

Contact info@peka.co.nz www.peka.co.nz, Ph: 0800 892 432

Gemstone Drop Earrings Trending currently and a must have in your store!

Contact: 09 638 7378 sales@regal.co.nz

Najo’s luminous Chroma Pearl set Features 14mm freshwater button pearls set in sterling silver with 14ct gold plate bezels.

Contact: Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent Ph: +64 27 722 6000 www.najo.com.au

LAB Diamonds by DGA LGRG-68099-004-Y – Gold Fresh Water Pearl Ring. NZD $919 Elevate your elegance with the timeless beauty of the Gold Pearl Ring by Lab Diamonds by DGA. This exquisite piece features a luminous cultured pearl set in radiant 9K gold, flanked by sparkling, ethically crafted lab-grown diamonds.

Designed for the modern wearer who values both sophistication and sustainability, this ring effortlessly blends classic charm with contemporary values.

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

72-827 CIT Elegant teardrop Citrine pendant. Crafted in sterling silver and bead set with Swarovski marcasites (Matching earrings available 43-308 CIT).

Contact: AM Imports Pty Ltd NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P: 021 751 115 E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

FURLA WW00024037L4 Crystal-clear glamour. The Furla Easy Shape pairs a silver and gold-tone bracelet with a sunray emerald-green dial, accented by a crystal ring, four crystal indices, and a sweeping second hand. Ladies $449.00 Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaacessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au

NATIONWIDE JEWELLERS. Trade with confidence knowing your business practices are current and relevant.

LEARNING AND NETWORKING are cornerstones to Nationwide’s offer.

Contact: Nationwide Jewellers Ph +61 2 9418 0000 www.nationwidejewellers.com

ROCHET HBJ88961: Haubans. 9mm satined steel and black polyester cord bangle. One Size.

Contact: 03 356 3587 www.pacifictime.co.nz

NZ Made Rings Relax in the knowledge you have purchased an NZ made piece with exceptional quality, built to last.

Contact: 09 638 7378 sales@regal.co.nz

MAXUM MW24203L02 A classic silhouette that screams chic. A mesmerising textured white dial is framed by a crystal enriched 32.5mm gold-tone case and completed with a sleek black leather strap. Ladies $229.00 Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaacessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au

HUD02 HAT03 NOV01 The Hudson ring, Hatton necklace & Nova ring collections are a testament to minimalistic elegance, where the allureof simplicity meets the endurance of stainless steel.

ADIDAS AOST25033 Embrace the youthful energy of the adidas Originals Project Four, a bold 41mm black resin watch with a textured dial featuring our Trefoil logo, and silicone strap for confident streetwear style Unisex $139.95

Contact: Steel & Barnett +61 466 668 883 info@steelandbarnett.com.au www.steelandbarnett.com.au

Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211, customer.service@designaacessories.com.au, www.designaaccessories.com.au

JMV250313 1.20ct Teal Oval Madagascan Sapphire (7.24 x 5.74 x 3.87mm) Contact: Orange River +61 7 3012 9032 Brisbane@orangeriver.com.au www.orangeriver.com.au

WIN WIN WIN All JWNZ members who attend the 2025 JWNZ Spring Fair go into a draw for a $500 voucher.

Plus, the first 25 JWNZ members* who present their air travel boarding pass at the fair will receive a $50 voucher to go towards their travel costs. *Conditions apply – visitors only.

9k Gold by DGA 9YN1936OX – 9k Gold Black Onyx Clover Necklace. NZD $829 Chic symbolism meets everyday luxury in the Black Onyx Clover Necklace by DGA. Crafted in luminous 9K solid gold, this delicate necklace features a striking fourleaf clover pendant in rich, polished black onyx—a timeless symbol of luck, protection, and strength.

Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia Contact Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent M. +64 27 722 6000 E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz

Qudo An exciting range of colourful tops and uniquely styled rings. The combinations are almost limitless. Stylish tops that can be added to rings, bracelets, necklaces and earrings, and taps into the global trend for customisable jewellery.

Contact: Timesupply, P +61 8 8221 5580 sales@timesupply.com.au, timesupply.com.au

Thousands of Premium Findings, without the Premium Price Palloys findings are in stock and ready for immediate dispatch. Palloys has you covered, whether you’re looking for clasps, fittings, jump rings and more.

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Vera Javaro Customer Service Manager

It takes two In March I had the pleasure of attending the 41st Hong Kong International Jewellery Show and the 11th Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show, both organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC); a prestigious event in the global jewellery and gem calendar. The twin shows attracting more than 82,000 buyers from 141 countries and regions.

Held annually, these events have evolved into a major marketplace for buyers and sellers of fine jewellery, diamonds, pearls, and gemstones.

Together, they provide an invaluable platform for showcasing the latest trends, innovations, and craftsmanship in the world of luxury jewellery, attracting international industry professionals, including retailers, designers, manufacturers and traders.

Among our NZ delegation were Chris Worth and Toni Macdonald (Worth & Douglas), Vanessa Astley and Kirsty Shutkowski (Regal), Geoff Kidd and Patrick Thom (PEKA) and Antonia Morris and Riccardo Tosin (Morris & Watson).

Always good to meet up with our Australian friends from the trade, David Paterson and Elsa Melamed from Paterson Fine Jewellery, Mitul Mehta, Saurin Jhaven and Ram Anup from Unison Manufacturing, John Michaelis from AM Imports and Jarrett Ho of the HKTDC’s Sydney office.

THE SIGNIFICANCE OF HONG KONG AS A JEWELLERY HUB

Hong Kong has long been regarded as

Hong Kong Convention Centre.

a global hub for the jewellery trade, due to its strategic location, high-quality manufacturing capabilities and status as an international financial centre. The city serves as a gateway for jewellery and gemstone exports from the AsiaPacific region and a significant player in the international supply chain. This position has allowed Hong Kong to remain at the forefront of the jewellery industry, offering unparalleled access to the global market and facilitating the exchange of knowledge and technology.

41ST HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW

From Chinese designer and fair exhibitor Kelly Xie, her crimson, diamond and18ct gold Curvora ring blazes with a focal 13.7ct rubellite.

34 JT2025 WINTER

The 2025 Hong Kong International Jewellery Show brought together the finest jewellery collections from around the world. The show featured more than 2,000 exhibitors, presenting a dazzling array of products, including diamond jewellery, gold and silver pieces, as well as contemporary and traditional designs. Renowned for its focus on quality and innovation, the

Hong Kong International Jewellery Show is often seen as a bellwether for emerging trends in the global jewellery industry.

This year’s edition was particularly notable for its emphasis on sustainability and ethical sourcing.

As consumers increasingly prioritise ethical and environmentally responsible products, many exhibitors showcased pieces made from responsibly sourced materials, including conflict-free diamonds, recycled metals and labgrown gemstones. The inclusion of sustainability in the show reflects broader shifts in consumer demand, as well as the industry’s efforts to align with global environmental and social standards.

Another highlight was the presence of leading global jewellery designers and manufacturers, who presented collections blending traditional craftsmanship with cutting-edge technology. Innovations in design, such as 3D-printed jewellery and the use of artificial intelligence in design processes, were prominently featured.

11th Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show Running concurrently with the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show was the Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show, now in its 11th edition. This specialised event focused exclusively on diamonds, gemstones, and pearls, attracting a targeted audience of gem dealers, wholesalers, and collectors. The show serves as an important platform for industry professionals to discover rare gemstones, build business relationships, and stay updated on the latest developments in the world of precious stones.

One of the key features of this edition was the showcase of highquality diamonds and coloured gemstones, including rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. The event drew attention to both the luxury segment and the growing popularity of alternative gemstones, which have become increasingly popular with consumers looking for unique, non-traditional choices. As the global diamond market has faced fluctuations in demand and price, coloured gemstones have emerged as a lucrative and diverse alternative for investors and collectors.

Another major trend was the increasing prominence of pearls in high-end jewellery. Once primarily associated with classic designs, pearls have evolved into a versatile material used in contemporary and avant-garde creations. Exhibitors at the show displayed a wide variety of pearls, from traditional white and cream to exotic black, golden and blue varieties.

BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES AND NETWORKING

Both shows present good networking opportunities for industry professionals.

Buyers have the chance to interact directly with manufacturers, designers and suppliers, fostering collaborations and forming business deals. The HKTDC also organised a series of

AMONG THE AUSTRALASIAN VISITORS WERE…

Nadia Neuman and Sonja Leydman from Mondial by Nadia.

Hong Kong exhibitor Osi Vitoria Jewelry presented a necklace crafted with 62.67cts of natural emeralds as the centrepiece.

It also features spinels, sapphires and diamonds. A total of 3,248 stones are set in an 18ct gold and titanium structure.

seminars, forums and matchmaking sessions during the event, designed to facilitate knowledge exchange and business development.

For many exhibitors, the shows represent a valuable opportunity to expand their reach into new markets.

Hong Kong’s unique position as a bridge between East and West makes it an ideal location for international jewellery companies seeking to tap into the Asian market, which is experiencing growing demand for luxury and highquality jewellery.

One of the key trends observed in recent years is the increasing influence of younger consumers, particularly millennials and Gen Z. These groups are driving demand for more unique, personalized jewellery that reflects their individual style and values. As a result, there has been a growing interest in custom-made pieces, vintage jewellery and sustainable options, with an emphasis on transparency in the sourcing of materials.

Patrick Thom and Geoff Kidd, PEKA, with Antonia Morris and Riccardo Tosin, Morris & Watson.

Jarrett Ho (HKTDC) and John Michaelis, AM Imports.

- Debbie Whiting

FOR YOUR DIARY

2026 dates: 2-6 March for the HK International Diamond, Gem and Pearl Show and 4-8 March for the HK International Jewellery Show.

Visit the JWNZ Spring Fair in Auckland, September 14 this year.

From left, Mitul Mehta, Saurin Jhaveri and Ram Anup, Unison Manufacturing.

JT2025 WINTER 35

FEEDBACK FROM MEMBERS OF THE AUSTRALASIAN CONTINGENT …

What were your impressions of the fair this year?

The fair had a good energy overall. Some areas felt busier than others, but that’s to be expected given the current challenges in the trade. It was well-organized, and we appreciated the opportunity to reconnect with our suppliers and peers.

What were you looking out for and did you find it?

We went in with a clear focus - trends, equipment, machinery and new product ideas. We managed to find most of what we were hoping for, so it was a productive visit.

What was a highlight of your fair visit?

Catching up with long-time trade friends is always a highlight. While there wasn’t one particular product or booth that stood out this time, the fair gave us the chance to have valuable conversations and stay connected with what’s happening across the industry.

- Chris Worth, Worth & Douglas Toni Macdonald and Chris Worth, Worth & Douglas.

Kirsty Shutkowski and Vanessa Astley, Regal.

What were your impressions of the fair this year?

A little quieter, probably due to higher gold price.

What were you looking out for and did you find it?

We were looking for new designs to complement our fabulous range of NZ made styles. We are looking forward to showing our customers what we have found.

What was a highlight of your fair visit?

It was great reconnecting with our trusted suppliers.

- Kirsty Shutkowski, Regal

David Paterson and Esla Melamed, Paterson Fine Jewellery.

What were your impressions of the fair this year?

My first visit to the HKTDC Jewellery Fair in March left a lasting impression. The fair was vast and incredibly impressive, showcasing a wide variety of jewellery ranging from costume pieces to exquisite high-end fine jewellery. It was fascinating to see so many products and services related to the jewellery industry under one roof. The event also provided a fantastic opportunity to network, allowing us to meet industry colleagues and clients in an inspiring and dynamic environment.

What were you looking out for and did you find it?

We were focused on seeking new trends and inspirations in fine jewellery, as well as sourcing loose stones, exploring new collections to expand our range and finding packaging, display items and jewellery cleaning equipment. We were pleased to find an abundance of suppliers catering to all these areas. The response from suppliers was excellent, with quick turnaround times for quotes, designs and orders, making the experience both efficient and rewarding.

What was a highlight of your fair visit?

A highlight of my visit was the networking aspect. It was truly valuable to connect with both new and familiar faces from across the jewellery industry, strengthening relationships and building new opportunities. As it was also my first time in Hong Kong, I was impressed by the city’s vibrant energy, stunning waterfront views, impressive skyline and world-class shopping and nightlife, all of which made the overall experience even more memorable.

- Elsa Melamed, Paterson Fine Jewellery

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Parade model.

Design excellence Held for the first time since the pandemic, the HKTDC 2025 International Jewellery Design Excellence Award received an enthusiastic response with 80 entries from nine countries competing for the highest honour - the ‘Champion of the Champions’. The entries were assessed by Lawrence Ma, Chairman of the HKTDC Hong Kong International Jewellery Show and HKTDC Hong Kong International Diamond, Gem & Pearl Show Fair organising committee and representatives from L’ÉCOLE, School of Jewelry and the De Beers Group.

Australia’s Nadia Neuman took out the Champion of Champions award with her gold and diamond pendant , which also features a fully functional kaleidoscope.

The runners-up came from Russia, Hong Kong and Taiwan.

Nadia Neuman’s winning piece.

Craftsmanship Award ‘Born of Blue’ by Chan Hoi Yi (Hong Kong) Category: Pendant/Brooch

Innovative and Uniqueness in Design Award ‘Summer Night Celebration’ by Ying Chen Chen (Taiwan) Category: Earrings

Aesthetics Award ‘Contemplation’ by Mariia Efimova (Russia) Category: Ring

New Ladies Halo Watch

email: sales@olympicwatch.com JT2025 WINTER 37

The story of the diamond that seems to hover It has been an amazing year so far for Ian and Christine Douglas and Chris Benham, directors of The Village Goldsmith, Wellington. There has been huge global and local publicity surrounding the latest Tiffany & Co and Pharrell Williams collaboration, which uses The Village Goldsmith’s technology and creation, the Floeting® Diamond. A key part of the Titan Tiffany collection, the Floeting® Diamond is a patented and trade-marked design.

The first Tiffany/Williams collection was inspired by Poseidon’s trident from Greek mythology; a nod to Atlantis, the name of the Virginia Beach community where musician, rapper and fashion designer, Pharrell Williams, was raised.

It featured a mix of gold, titanium and diamonds in chains accented with spikes. The second series focussed on white pearls and for the third act, it is the turn of the bold Tahitian pearl and the Floeting® Diamond.

Ian Douglas explains the journey taken to push the boundaries of diamond presentation…

Tell us the history of the Floeting® Diamond…

It was an intensive, now, 18-year long journey to develop The Floeting® Diamond Platform, which is an entirely new way to display diamonds in a setting. The technical breakthrough was achieved by combining expertise and applying new methods from across global industries. The team employed specialist engineers, designers, gem cutters and jewellers to shift from traditional jewellery methods to precise engineering and hightech manufacturing techniques.

The Floeting® Diamond is an enabling technology that integrates a new, patented diamond shape and setting into a single, seamless unit. It is a fully engineered system that enables designers to incorporate a licensed, pre-set Floeting® Diamond component into their collections—reducing the need for complex setting processes while unlocking an entirely new aesthetic.

As designers, we see limitless potential for how this technology can be used, not just in classic solitaires, but across a range of creative jewellery designs.

Tiffany is the first jewellery house to utilise the Floeting® Platform in their latest ‘Tiffany Titan by Pharrell Williams’ collection.

What makes the diamond unique? How does this happen?

The idea for the Floeting® Diamond wasn’t only about designing a new proprietary cut, it was about redefining how diamonds are presented in jewellery. The real challenge wasn’t just in shaping the diamond differently but in thinking about the diamond and setting as one integrated design system. That shift led us on an extended journey of research, collaboration and the departure from traditional design and manufacturing methods to adoption of new technologies and processes. The result is a patented setting that securely holds a diamond without any visible metal while maintaining

Floeting® Diamond jewellery created by The Village Goldsmith, including private commission pieces.

38 JT2025 WINTER

The Village Goldsmith directors, Chris Benham, Christine Douglas and Ian Douglas.

exceptional light return.

Past methods attempting to achieve a prongless diamond such as drilling, notching, or using softer, precious metals have often compromised either security or light return, especially in larger diamonds. Floeting® takes an entirely new approach by engineering the diamond and setting as one, using a precision-cut micro-groove to maintain brilliance while securing the stone in a special alloy, which is stronger than traditional precious metals. This delivers on both security and sparkle, without compromise. The Floeting® Diamond has undergone rigorous testing by Callaghan Innovation, a leading science and engineering institute and is scientifically proven to be incredibly strong and robust.

Why was it created?

The Floeting® Diamond was created to satisfy an important, unmet consumer need. For half a century, we were frequently asked by clients to design jewellery to showcase a diamond without visible metal or prongs obstructing the beauty of the gemstone. Under traditional jewellery manufacturing methods this wasn’t possible.

Tell us about some of the publicity you have received re the collection…

For designers creating their own collections, The Floeting® Diamond Platform — praised by Forbes as a ‘revolutionary setting’ — is an enabling technology. “Utilising a pre-set Floeting® Diamond component empowers creatives to design proprietary jewellery unencumbered by metal bezels or prongs.”

Recently, global scale was achieved with the launch of the renowned luxury brand’s collection utilising the patented Floeting® Diamond Platform. International media have covered this including: Robb Report, Financial Times, Esquire, The Fashionography, WWD, Runway Magazine, Vogue France and Elle Mexico.

What’s next for The Village Goldsmith and the Floeting® Diamond?

The patented Floeting® Diamond Platform is an enabling creative technology for jewellery designers and manufacturers. Our focus is on scaling to meet growing demand for licensing of Floeting® Diamond set components. We can’t wait to see what the world’s best creatives and visionary artists dream up and achieve with Floeting®.

JT2025 WINTER 39

For an extensive selection of natural diamonds, lab-grown diamonds, sapphires, and finished jewellery—all readily available— Think Orange River. Explore our inventory online and discover the Orange River difference.

Adelaide | Brisbane

orangeriver.com.au

‘Modern tiaras’: 20mm sardonyx shell cameo, hand-carved. Sterling silver.

Cotton cap. US$4,442.00.

Amedeo Scognamiglio introduces avantgarde design codes, revolutionising a 200-year-old craft.

‘Profound Enlightenment’ (Just art): Shell: Cassis Madagascariensis, hand-carved.

One of a kind. US$47,973.00.

Cameo to the stars Italian jewellery designer, Amedeo Scognamiglio, was one of the seminar presenters at the 2025 Hong Kong International Jewellery Show. He joined Alice Tsang, Principal Economist (Global Research) of the HKTDC, to explore the latest trends in affordable luxury jewellery and men's jewellery.

Amedeo Scognamiglio is celebrated for redefining the ancient art of cameo carving. A sixth-generation artisan from Torre del Greco, a city with a centuries-old tradition in coral and shell carving, he transforms cameos from nostalgic relics into contemporary, avant-garde statements.

Born into a family of master carvers

dating back to 1857, Amedeo began carving at 13, mastering precision and artistry. Instead of adhering to classical motifs, he introduced bold, unexpected designs - skulls, monkeys and pop references - blurring the lines between fine jewellery and modern art. His irreverent, yet masterful approach captivated collectors and A-list celebrities worldwide.

‘Medusa’ ring: 35mm turquoise cameo hand-carved. Sterling silver.

White diamonds, tsavorite and blue sapphires. US$39,116.00.

‘Handala’ (Palestine defiance symbol) ring. 30mm sardonyx shell cameo, handcarved. Sterling silver. Tsavorite or blue sapphires and black onyx base or lapis base. US$6,130.00.

AVAILABLE AT

HTTPS://WWW.PACIFICTIME.CO.NZ

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‘Light in the night’: 18mm sardonyx shell cameo hand-carved with white crystals. US$889.

‘Divine trio’: 30mm agate cameos, hand-carved. Sterling silver, yellow sapphires, blue sapphires, citrine and topaz cabochon. US$8,523.00.

In 1996, Amedeo co-founded Faraone Mennella with Roberto Faraone Mennella, launching a brand that revolutionised modern jewellery. Their sculptural designs, famously featured on Sex and the City, became synonymous with effortless luxury, worn by notable clientele, for example, Rihanna, Elton John, Meryl Streep and Sara Jessica Parker and sold in premier retailers.

In 2006, Amedeo launched AMEDEO, pushing cameos into the fashion and art worlds. His work, featured in Vogue, The New York Times and Harper’s Bazaar, cemented his status as the global authority on contemporary cameos. His bespoke service elevates personalisation, turning hand-carved jewellery into wearable storytelling.

Following Roberto’s death in 2020, Amedeo took full control of the company, ensuring their creative legacy thrives.

For him, true luxury is about authenticity, craftsmanship and reinvention, proving that even the most traditional art forms can be wearable.

‘Memento mori’: 70mm sardonyx shell cameo hand-carved. 18ct gold and sterling silver, black rhodium and leather. US$24,803.00.

JT2025 WINTER 41

One of a kind Phillips Auction House partnered with Manhattan’s Swiss Institute / Contemporary Art New York in presenting the second edition of TimeForArt, the only benefit watch auction dedicated to supporting contemporary art. The Swiss Institute’s guiding belief is that contemporary watchmaking is inherently an art form, where each piece is an homage to artistry, precision and creative expression.

Every dollar raised goes directly to the Swiss Institute’s programmes, supporting emerging and established artists who shape the world of contemporary art through exhibitions, public programmes and artist residencies.

This edition saw 25 unique timepieces from the world’s

foremost watchmakers raising US$1.2 million for the Swiss Institute. Leading the group was the Chanel BOY•FRIEND, which achieved more than three times its estimate at US$222,250.

t Chanel BOY•FRIEND is a 37mm blackened steel wristwatch, with a colourful Grand Feu enamel dial in white gold and baguette-set diamond bezel. The caseback is engraved with ‘IT’S CHANEL TIMEFORART!’. Make-up was an essential of feminine allure for Gabrielle Chanel. This wristwatch features a representation of Mademoiselle Chanel with the iconic accessories that she loved to wear pearl earrings, long necklaces in accumulation and cuffs in duo.

u Independent Swiss watch manufacturer Armin Strom created a unique, artistic Mirrored Force Resonance stainless steel model exclusively for the auction. Inspired by renowned artist Franz Gertsch (1930-2022) and his ‘Blue Phase’, the dial reflects the same hue obtained from the semi-precious lapis lazuli used by Gertsch in his works. Sold for US$101,600.

t The 33.5mm Toledano & Chan B/1Meteorite Prototype, as the name would suggest, is made primarily of meteorite - the case, dial and lugs - while the strap is crafted from ostrich leg skin. The caseback and crown are made from sandblasted stainless steel. Accompanied by a handmade concrete presentation box. Sold for US$35,560.

u Speake-Marin’s 42mm titanium Promenade à New York sold for US$48,260. The mother-of-pearl dial serves as a blank canvas, capturing the memories of Mrs. Christelle Rosnoblet, the brand's President and CEO, from one of her extended stays in New York City, where she often enjoyed leisurely Sunday afternoon walks in Central Park. Brushes and paints depict the Gapstow Bridge in an autumn landscape.

t The stainless steel Anoma A1, with its rounded triangular case and black engraved lacquer dial, embodies a more experimental and daring vision of watch design, breaking free from traditional constraints with its sculptural approach. Drawing inspiration from a free-form table created by Charlotte Perriand in the 1950s, Anoma’s love story with this design began a few years ago, when they first discovered one of these tables at an antique gallery in Paris. It forms the foundation of the A1. Sold for US$12,700.

42 JT2025 WINTER

t Maurice Lacroix created a piece in collaboration with the acclaimed Mexican artist Rodrigo Hernández. The artist was granted full freedom to reinterpret the Swiss brand’s Masterpiece Skeleton in his own unique style. Inspired by Hernández’s exhibition at the Wattis Institute in San Francisco and the philosophical question, “Are humans the only dreamers on Earth?”, the ‘With what eyes?’ watch depicts two monkeys staring at each other. The primates are handcrafted in bronze to form a bewitching dial.

Sold for US$20,320.

u ‘Enjoy life’ - That’s the mantra artist Shantell Martin brings to the special 41mm titanium edition Ressence TYPE 1². Martin is a British visual artist, best known for her large-scale, black and white line drawings. Featuring a white dial and only black hands, carved into Ressence’s signature flush rotating discs, the watch serves as the perfect blank canvas for Martin’s drawings.

Sold for US$38,100.

t Chopard’s Alpine Eagle 41 XP Lucent Steel™ sold for US$88.900. Lucent Steel being a steel alloy made with an 80% recycling rate developed by Chopard for its robustness and brilliance obtained through a meticulous remelting process. The dial of this new model is a first for Chopard. Each intricately crafted strand takes the shape of a feather. Meticulously arranged in varying sizes, thicknesses, and shades, the strands create a stunning ensemble reminiscent of an eagle’s eye view soaring over the skyscrapers of New York City.

2025 Jewellery Industry Fair SYDNEY

25 - 27 SEPTEMBER The Venue - Alexandria

jewelleryindustryfair.com

JT2025 WINTER 43

Many thanks to our trade fair sponsors:

WHOLESALE JEWELLERY SERVICES

September 14, 2025 Viaduct Events Centre Auckland 9.30am - 4.30pm Come and appreciate the future in this new, modern facility!

MORE SPACE LARGER TABLES • 20% increase in the number of exhibitors to date • 88% increase in exhibition floor plan • 45% increase in number of exhibitor tables • All exhibitors on one level and one area • Travel incentives • Travel prize • Free Barrista Coffee • Free Muffin

7 stands left on a first come first served basis Visitor registration is open www.jewelleryfair.co.nz Contact: Craig Anderson, 021 596 988, info@jwnz.co.nz Debbie Whiting, 0274 777 955, debbie@inklink.co.nz

JWNZ PRESIDENT’S REPORT It’s not often I am lost for words, but last month has been tough. I know you were all as shocked as I was to learn of the tragic accident in Wanaka and the passing of Ivan van de Water. He was such a good, decent man and an asset to the trade and his community. Our hearts go out to Miriam and his family. RIP Ivan.

We also remember Lea Worth, such a vibrant and beautiful lady. I will never forget Lea’s cheeky delight at a JWNZ Trade Fair auction when a guest paid good money to have her husband John shave off his trademark moustache. It was priceless. I know you will all join me in sending our love and support to John, Chris and family at this time. RIP Lea. Winter has well and truly arrived with a bang and now we are all hunkering down in our winter woollies and looking

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to the JWNZ Spring Trade Fair. Debbie Whiting and her team have been working flat out behind the scene and it will be so exciting to be in the Viaduct Event Centre on Auckland’s waterfront.

We will be having a social get-together on the Saturday evening at The Pantry in the Wynyard Corner. Time to relax and catch up with fellow exhibitors for a meal and a few drinks before a busy day at the fair. Tickets will be available from Craig Anderson.

I hope all our Canterbury and Wellington members are safe after the recent chaos and floods.

Please feel free to contact me at any time.

- Susi Chinnery-Brown, JWNZ President, 021 751 115, susi@twentyfive7.co.nz

2024 JWNZ Trade Fair visitors, from left, Kirsty Walker, Andrea O’Brien, Megan Walker, Sharon Lewis and Vicki Liddington, Showcase Jewellers Te Awamutu.

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Susi Chinnery-Brown.

Laurie Kearns and Adam Van Sambeek, from 2024 JWNZ Trade Fair exhibitor Morris & Watson.

GOLDSMITHS GUILD OF NZ The Goldsmiths Guild held its AGM in Wellington on 13th March. There was a good turnout for the meeting and I would like to thank Ian Douglas for the use of his premises. Thanks also to Becks for supplying writing pads and pens for those attending.

The committee appointed for the following year is: Chairman Brian Barrett Committee Darren Orr, Ian Douglas (Wellington), Mike Sherring, Warren Beard (Hutt Valley), Sam Drummond (Palmerston North) We would like more members from outside of the Wellington region to be represented on the committee.

If you feel that you would like to be involved, please contact me. A broader 46 JT2025 WINTER

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representation from across the country can only be beneficial to all members.

The comments I have had from our members is how slow business has been. I’m not sure if that is widespread, or if it’s just the quiet ones getting in touch, but I am aware that it’s not unique to our trade. Everyone I know who runs a business is saying how quiet things are. Obviously the high gold price will continue to have a very negative effect on jewellery manufacturing, which is not good as we head into winter. We can only hope for better times ahead.

- Brian Barrett GGNZ CHAIRMAN 04 476 4764, 021 661 060 nzgoldsmithsguild@gmail.com

Brian Barrett.

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A PIECE OF WEARABLE ART

Bvlgari and Swiss luxury watch manufacturer, MB&F, have taken on the challenge of reinventing Bulgari’s iconic Serpenti, a timepiece known for its snake-inspired design. Bvlgari and MB&F first collaborated in 2021, when Bvlgari Product Creation Executive Director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and MB&F founder Max Büsser first joined forces on the LM Flying T Allegra.

The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti comes in three materials – 18ct rose gold, grade 5 titanium and black PVD-coated stainless steel, each limited to just 33 pieces.

With its 39mm width, 53mm length, and 18mm thickness, the watch is characterised by a striking case that evokes both the fluidity of a snake and the sleek lines of a sports car. With curves designed to echo the rear windows of a car and double crowns at 11 and 1 o’clock resembling wheels, this automotive influence reflects the shared passion for cars between Buonamassa Stigliani and Büsser.

Priced at US$148,000 for the titanium and black PVD models and US$170,000 for the rose gold edition.

TAKING FLIGHT

Tiffany has launched the 2025 Bird on a Pearl high jewellery capsule collection, a reimagining of Jean Schlumberger’s iconic 1965 Bird on a Rock.

Bird on a Pearl is made with a fusion of yellow and rose gold, diamonds and natural pearls in the traditional spherical or baroque shape. The pearls come from the Gulf region from Hussein Al Fardan, a world-renowned name in the field of natural saltwater pearls.

Hussein Al Fardan Gulf Pearl ring, gold, diamonds and rubies.

JT2025 WINTER 47

Phone 03 389 9878 Email sales@finneys.co.nz www.finneys.co.nz

The Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Inc. M E MBE R BE NE F ITS: Jewellery Time magazine - The focal point of JWNZ member and industry communication.

JWNZ Inc. Trade Fair - An annual event held on behalf of our members, for our members and industry.

Internet - www.jwnz.co.nz - The official JWNZ website with a free listing for financial members.

2025

Press Releases - Jewellery and watch specific editorial promotion of product and JWNZ members.

Consumer Information - Online brochures, water resistancy guide and refund policy.

BUSINESS SERVICES: ANZ Bank - Business and Personal banking.

ANZ Merchant Business Solutions - Merchant facilities for EFTPOS, Credit & Debit Card sales.

Gallagher - Business, Personal and Travel insurances.

CourierPost - Special Trackpak rates, $2000 insurance cover on each parcel sent.

EFTPOS NZ Ltd - EFTPOS Terminals and Payment Solutions.

Business & Personal Banking

Merchant Facilities

Gilrose Finance - Consumer Finance for Hire Purchase sales.

Grow Online Ltd - Creating Results Driven Websites, SEO (Search Engine Optimisation), SEM (Search Engine Marketing), Ecommerce Websites, B2B, Custom Solutions.

Office Products Depot - Stationery, Office furniture, Computer accessories and consumerables. one.nz - Telecommunication services - Fixed line & Broadband one.nz - DigitalMobile - Vodafone Product Suppliers

INDUSTRY REPRESENTATION: Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand - Representation on the Jewellery & Watch Industry organisation responsible for Apprenticeship Training.

TRADE & COMMERCE: Government Liaison (When required) - Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Commerce Commission, New Zealand Customs, Disputes Tribunal, New Zealand Trade & Enterprise, Immigration New Zealand, Statistics New Zealand, Ministry of Economic Development.

48 JT2025 WINTER

JWNZ EXECUTIVE NOTES 2025-2026 Annual Subscriptions The 2025-2026 annual subscription invoices have been emailed to members. To those members who have paid their annual subscription already, thank you for continuing your support of the JWNZ, NZ’s largest industry specific jewellery and watch organisation, it is greatly appreciated.

The 2025-2026 Financial Member Certificates and Membership Booklet will be posted to financial members in June. If your contact detail, email, or website addresses have changed please advise Craig Anderson, JWNZ Executive Secretary so we can maintain our databases and mailing lists.

2025 JWNZ Spring Trade Fair Our 2025 JWNZ Spring Trade Fair is being held on Sunday 14th September at the Viaduct Event Centre, Halsey Street, Wynyard Quarter, Auckland. The Viaduct Event Centre allows us to have a single level larger exhibition space, an increased number of exhibitor tables, along with 11 new and five returning exhibitors, after an absence of a year or two, to exhibit once again.

The Spring Trade Fair will offer industry members the opportunity to see new trends, jewellery and watch collections, industry product suppliers and services. As well, the Viaduct Event Centre is close to several

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nearby hotels. We have several new initiatives, including a Saturday evening networking/social event for exhibitors and clients and all JWNZ members who attend the Fair go into a draw for a $500 voucher. Plus, the first 25 JWNZ members* who present their air travel boarding pass at the fair will receive a $50 voucher to go towards their travel costs. *Conditions apply - visitors only.

Spring Trade Fair Visitor Registration Register online for the 2025 JWNZ Spring Trade Fair at www.jewelleryfair. co.nz.

The JWNZ greatly appreciates the continuing support of our 2025 Trade Fair sponsors; Landau Jewellery (Christchurch), Morris & Watson Ltd., Pacific Time Industries and PEKA, as well as our exhibitors.

2025 Meetings The JWNZ National Council will meet prior to the JWNZ Annual General Meeting. The JWNZ Annual General Meeting will be held at 4.00pm on Saturday 13th September at the Viaduct Event Centre, Halsey Street, Wynyard Quarter, Auckland.

JT 2025 - Jewellery Time e-magazine The past and upcoming issues of our members’ magazine Jewellery Time are and will be available as e-magazines on the Jewellery Time website:

Craig Anderson.

www.jewellerytime.co.nz The e-magazine will be available online soon after the publishing and posting of the printed version. JT 2025 is the focal point for JWNZ member communication. Keep yourself informed as the magazine contains information such as events, JWNZ reports and editorial, business, news, and industry updates.

JWNZ Inc. National Office Craig Anderson JWNZ Inc. Executive Secretary T 021 59 69 88 Int +64 21 59 69 88 E info@jwnz.co.nz

COME PAINT THE TOWN JWNZ NETWORKING DINNER

Sip, talk & fork with fellow exhibitors and clients Saturday, September 13th, 6pm to 8pm THE PANTRY - PARK HYATT - 99 Halsey Street $35 gets you a house wine or beer and choice of a vegetarian Buddha bowl or a Chicken, Salmon or Tofu Donburi bowl. *Wear something Red and get a voucher for a second beverage.

Contact Craig Anderson for tickets, craig@jwnz.co.nz Presales only no door sales JT2025 WINTER 49

JEWELLERY INDUSTRY REGISTRATION BOARD Recently I have been grateful for the industry groups, leaders, representatives and all who have taken the time to add their expertise in getting tasks over the line.

To remind you, TEC (Tertiary Education Commission) stipulated guidelines on who can be called an Apprentice as opposed to a student in a school, PTE Trainee, starting out worker etc.

We have our own separate Qualification on the NZQF solely for ‘Manufacturing Jewellery’ and for ‘Watch and Clockmaking’ at level 4.

The TEC stipulations on who can be called an Apprentice: New Zealand Apprenticeships: • an apprentice must be employed in the occupation for which they are training • throughout the apprenticeship, an apprentice must be supported by a training plan agreed by the apprentice, the employer and the organisation arranging the training • contain a strong theoretical component to support further learning, as well as a practical element.

We have sorted Manufacturing Jewellery, but for Watch and

Clockmaking, the requirement to complete the strong theoretical component of the apprenticeship requirements, had been given stay until the updated TOPNZ distant learning material was made available. Now, not only has the transition plan for existing Watch and Clockmaking apprentices to undertake a Watchmaking Essentials course been well received, we also have three new apprentices.

Although the focus has been on Watch and Clockmaking, it was also important to not neglect Manufacturing Jewellery. Much work has gone into having both trades’ apprentices running parallel. I called on many and am grateful for their input. Pictured is one of these, being the thoughtful Master Jeweller - John Franich.

Conscious of consistency and stability, all apprentices under the JIRBNZ umbrella are now clearly familiar with how the apprenticeship system works. As they are both now running the same pathway of inhouse training, supported by the TOPNZ distance learning assessment and bookended by sitting their final Trade Certificate examination. Once all is completed, along with a practical component, they can then be awarded

Mentor and Master Manufacturing Jeweller, John Franich.

Apprentice Watch and Clockmakers, Elijah Pratt and Te Uri Kingi with Qualified Tradesman Wayne Bottema, Precision Watch Company (PWC).

Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand

Puri Panekiretanga – Keeping Standards High

Sponsors 2025

2025 50 JT2025 WINTER

their Trade Certificate and correctly call themselves – a Qualified, Trade Certified Tradesperson.

NOTICE OF THIS YEAR’S TRADE CERTIFICATE EXAMINATION:

- Jewellery Industry Board of New Zealand (JIRBNZ) 2025 Manufacturing Jewellery (MFJ) and Watch and Clockmaking (WC) TRADE CERTIFICATE EXAMINATION. DATE: Sunday 14th September VENUE: The Motutapu Room, at the Viaduct Events Centre, Auckland Viaduct, Auckland (JWNZ Spring Trade Fair Venue).

I will be contact with each eligible candidate. If anybody has any inquiries, please feel free to contact me directly.

– Grant Harrison Industry appointed Commissioner of Apprentices Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand M: 027 693 0001, E: info@jirbnz.org.nz W: www.jirbnz.org.nz

PWC’s Jamie MacKinnon with his original 1979 Trade Certificate number 43.

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES CROWD PLEASERS

BW 3674-01: RRP $269.

Pure titanium, sapphire crystal, date, 5 bar water resistant. Leather strap.

39mm.

Contact: Pacific Time Industries, Ph 03 356 3587, www.pacifictime.co.nz BW 3158-05: RRP $399.

Pure titanium, gold plated, sapphire crystal, 5 bar water resistant. Diameter 29mm.

BW 3607-06: RRP $399.

Pure titanium, sapphire crystal, 5 bar water resistant.

Diameter 39mm.

HP8981: RRP $85.

Mysteres: 13mm x 9mm IP black polished steel pendant with 50cm chain. Adjustable.

FOR EVERY OCCASION Elegant and versatile, the Freya Hoops feature lustrous oval freshwater pearls resting securely within the curve of the hoops. Their classic yet modern design makes them perfect for effortless, everyday style or elevating a special occasion look. Lightweight and timeless, these pearl hoops are a must-have staple for any jewellery collection. SKU: IP4304-E. Callie Set The Callie Jewellery Set blends vibrant Amazonite beads with luminous freshwater pearls for a fresh yet timeless look.

Bracelet (SKU: IP375B-GN): Bold Amazonite beads and three pearls on a stretch design, perfect for stacking or wearing solo.

Earrings (SKU: IP375E-GN): Sterling silver hook earrings with Amazonite and pearls, adding a playful, elegant touch.

Necklace (SKU: IP375N-GN): A striking necklace with Amazonite beads and five pearls, ideal for layering or wearing alone.

This set offers a modern, sophisticated statement, perfect for any occasion.

Effortlessly chic, the Alessia Huggies showcase luminous white baroque freshwater pearls, each uniquely shaped by nature. Suspended from sleek sterling silver huggie hoops, these earrings offer a timeless yet modern touch to any look. Their organic beauty and classic design make them perfect for everyday wear or special occasions.

SKU: IP177ESS-BAR.

The Henrietta Strand is a true classic, featuring beautifully graduated 6-12mm near-round white freshwater pearls. At 90cm in length, this strand offers endless styling possibilities wear it long for effortless elegance or doubled up for a layered look. Finished with a sleek sterling silver lock clasp, this piece is perfect for any occasion.

Whether dressed up or down, the Henrietta Strand brings sophistication and grace to every jewellery collection.

SKU: IP383NS-LOCK.

Contact: Ikecho Australia, Ph 61 2 9266 0636, cindy@ikecho.co.au, www.ikecho.com.au JT2025 WINTER 51

NEW PRODUCTS AND SERVICES ARRIVING ON TIME The Olympic Topham wall clock arrives this June. Designed in a classic station style, it features a metal case, bold dial and a silent movement quartz movement. Available in two sizes, 32cm (RRP $139) and 42cm (RRP $199); a practical and stylish clock for any room.

Contact: Olympic Swiss Watches, Ph 09 825 0061, sales@olympicwatch.com, www.olympicwatch.com.

A WINNING COMBINATION

West End Collection is now able to offer the finest quality custom made jewellery at the very best prices, thanks to a merger between West End Collection and one of the world's largest diamond producers. This allows for factory direct prices with local support. We can assist with initial CAD designs and renderings, right through to final production, all with the quick and easy assistance of an online Portal linking the retailer directly to the factory.

Contact: John Rose, john@westendcollection.com.au, www.westendcollection.com.au

A TOUCH OF FLORAL ELEGANCE

Celebrate the charm of nature with the latest addition to BECKS’ floral-inspired ring collection.

Delicate and romantic, these designs echo the beauty of blossoms in full bloom. An ideal symbol of love, gratitude, or a special connection. Style: J5237

DISCOVER AN INNER SPIRIT

BECKS’ Inner Spirit collection is a heartfelt tribute to the bond between culture and self.

Drawing on traditional influences and reimagined with contemporary design, each ring reflects the resilience, wisdom and identity that lives within us.

Contact: BECKS Group Australia, Mary-Louise Squire, Toll Free 0800 443 991, MaryLouiseSquire@becksgroup.au

YOUR CHOICE Full sovereign ring - 22.5g of solid 9ct gold, this back-mounted sovereign ring in size Z+2 is built for bigger fingers.

These deep relief Maori design wedders come in a range of widths and sizes.

Sideways Oval with four claws. This bridge ring features split shoulders allowing a great view of the 10x8 oval stone of your choice.

Contact: Michelle Edhouse, Solar Jewellery, Ph: 027 263 3246, accounts@solarjewellery.co.nz, www.SolarJewellery.co.nz 52 JT2025 WINTER

STYLE STAPLES

Thomas Sabo charm made of recycled 925 silver, with a radiant red labgrown sapphire framed by sparkling white zirconia stones. The ideal gift for yourself or someone you care about. CC2204.

From Thomas Sabo … Romantic heart pendant with a radiant lab-grown ruby framed by fine zirconia stones - as a symbol of love. TKE2305RE.

The Daniel Wellington Ophelia Mini Artic Silver watch features a dial with an elegant oval shape that diverges from traditional watches. This one-of-a-kind female watch offers a lot of newness. It comes with a newly designed beans link strap and a butterfly buckle. DW00100807.

From Daniel Wellington: Marlon St Mawes Linen Rose Gold. This brandnew watch shape features several vintage-inspired details. The cushionshaped case evokes classic vintage men's watches. At the same time, the linen-embossed print on the dial enhances its nostalgic design, making it elegant and timeless. DW00100816.

Make a statement with the DKNY City Maxi Silver Dial Watch, a chic and elegant timepiece designed for those who appreciate both style and functionality. Featuring a sleek silver dial that contrasts beautifully with the gold-plated stainless steel case and band. The polished gold finish adds a touch of luxury, while the versatile design ensures it pairs perfectly with both professional and casual attire. DK1L001M0045.

The DKNY Nolita Midi Green Dial Watch combines modern sophistication with a touch of vibrant elegance. Featuring a stunning dark green dial that pops against a two-tone silver and gold-plated stainless steel case and band, this timepiece exudes a bold yet refined style. The midi-sized design offers a balanced, comfortable fit, making it a versatile choice for both daily wear and special occasions.

DK1L029M0085.

Contact: Helen Finlayson, DGA Duraflex Group Australia, Ph +61 2 9417 0177, NZ 027 7226 000, helen@dgau.com.au JT2025 WINTER 53

DIRECTORY

NZ Distributer helen@fabuleuxvous.com HELEN: +64 274 203 137

CUDWORTH.COM.AU

Directory Advertising $150.00 each

for Standard Business Card size advertisement All rethreading including lengthening & shortening Extensive range of clasps Pearl drilling 19 Tapestry Grove, Silverstream, Upper Hutt 5019 p 04 528 9699 e info@aven.co.nz www.aven.co.nz

IMPORTERS AND WHOLESALERS OF PREMIUM GOLD, PLATINUM AND STERLING SILVER FINDINGS. • E-commerce website with pricing for easy online ordering • Quick dispatch of orders • Personal customer service • Happy to help source findings not on our website Contact Julie on 09-478 9950 or sales@nzfindings.co.nz www.nzfindings.co.nz 54 JT2025 WINTER

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Phone 0274 777 955 – www.jewellerytime.co.nz Email: debbie@inklink.co.nz

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Phone 0274 777 955 – www.jewellerytime.co.nz Email: debbie@inklink.co.nz

Ultrasonic Cleaners Made in Germany

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www.elma-ultrasonic.co.nz TECHSPAN NEW ZEALAND LTD

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Pronto Clock Company Ltd Ph 07 880 9795 info@prontoclocks.co.nz

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0800 603 603 info@elma-ultrasonic.co.nz

OV E R 3 00 STY L E S O F G O L D A N D S I LV E R C H A I N H E L D I N STO C K CHAIN PEARLS FINDINGS EARRINGS PENDANTS SERVICES

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w w w. p e ka . c o . nz | info @ p e ka . c o . nz JT2025 WINTER 55

DIRECTORY

ARGOSY GEMS for Design Work & Trade repairs.

Sourcing of Gems from the cutters.

Hand Engraving, Setting, Sizing, trade repairs.

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Richard 021670145, Argosy 03 3669332 141 Holly Rd, Christchurch 8014 argosy.jewellery@gmail.com argosyjewellery.co.nz

Carl Yung Gems Ltd Sapphires, Rubies, Emeralds, Diamonds & Semi-Precious Stones & Jewellery Fast & Reliable Cutting Services Available.

P O Box 109380, Newmarket, Auckland.

Ph: 09-623 2078 Email: info@carlyung.com

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Contact: Debbie Whiting, Jewellery Time, PO Box 46 218 Herne Bay Auckland.

Phone 0274 777 955 – www.jewellerytime.co.nz Email: debbie@inklink.co.nz

PO Box 62, Morrinsville 3340, New Zealand E: susi@twentyfive7.co.nz P: +64 7 889 3545 I M: + 64 21 751 115

1st Floor Gibson Sheat Centre 1 Margaret Street, Lower Hutt New Zealand’s leading Safe & Vault specialists.

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www.safeman.co.nz 56 JT2025 WINTER

Ph: 0800 723 365

0800 743 774 sales@rings.co.nz www.rings.co.nz

BECOME A STOCKIST TODAY

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Quasar Diamond is New Zealand’s foremost diamond authority. Each Quasar diamond is carefully selected by qualified diamond experts for complete peace of mind. Purchasing a Quasar Certified diamond is your ethical guarantee of both sustainability and exceptional quality.

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sales@nzgem.co.nz, 0800 NZ GEM (0800 69 43 67), P +64 9 377 3855, @quasardiamondsnz, quasardiamonds.com