B e n e f i t f r o m o u r w e a l t h o f k n o w l e d g e a n d e x p e r t i s e e n c a s e d i n a c o m p r e h e n s i v e r a n g e o f s e r v i c e s a n d r e s o u r c e s e s s e n t i a l f o r t h e m o d e r n i n d e p e n d e n t j e w e l l e r y r e t a i l e r c o v e r i n g m e r c h a n d i s e , m a r k e t i n g , f i n a n c e , a d m i n i s t r a t i o n , r e t a i l , t r a i n i n g a n d e d u c a t i o n . B u t m o s t i m p o r t a n t l y j o i n a c o l l e c t i v e o f l i k e m i n d e d p e e r s t o c o n n e c t a n d g r o w a l o n g s i d e .
Publisher/Advertising Editor
Debbie Whiting Debra Douglas
Phone: 09 378 1222 Mobile: 021 185 6846
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Jewellers & Watchmakers
19 Edwin Drive, Trent Park, Prebbleton 7604, New Zealand
Executive Secretary: Craig Anderson, Phone +64 (0)21 596 988 info@jwnz.co.nz, www.jwnz.co.nz
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Jewellery Time is the official magazine of the Jewellers & Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.
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AUTUMN 2024
BOOKING AND EDITORIAL: FEBRUARY 15
AD MATERIAL: FEBRUARY 22
MAGAZINE POSTED: FEBRUARY 29
WINTER 2024
BOOKING AND EDITORIAL: MAY 2
AD MATERIAL: MAY 9
MAGAZINE POSTED: MAY 16
SPRING 2024 (JWNZ TRADE FAIR SPECIAL)
BOOKING AND EDITORIAL: AUGUST 2
AD MATERIAL: AUGUST 9
MAGAZINE POSTED: AUGUST 16
Published by InkLink Publications PO Box 46-218, Herne Bay, Auckland 1147
Design/Prepress by Rex Eade, Eade Gallery, Ph 027 286 0438, rex@eadegallery.co.nz
Printed by Soar
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Registered as a magazine at the GPO, Wellington. ISSN 1170-9960.
2023
The official magazine of The Jewellers and Watchmakers of New Zealand Incorporated.
A stunning new pendant from ESSE just in time for Christmas – Model 72-821 features a large onyx centre stone with top grade Swarovski marcasites and rich green enamelled accents. Contact AM IMPORTS Pty Ltd, NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown P.021 751 115 or E. susi@twentyfive7.co.nz to view the full range.
Titanium Jewellery from Boccia is a must have this summer. Made from the highest quality materials, the titanium is not only light but nice to your skin – perfect for everyday wear. Pacific Time stock a wide range of Boccia Titanium best-selling rings and earrings.
Wear your story, one accessory at a time.
Introducing Jo-Ann French, JIRBNZ Apprentice of the Year 2023 …
Where do you live?
Tutukaka, Whangarei, Northland. You have completed your apprenticeship working under?
Maree Benson, Jewellery by Maree. Her workshop is located in Maunu, Whangarei, Northland.
Describe the business …
I was lucky enough to have worked alongside lovely and talented Maree. She gave me a lot of opportunities to do handmakes for her range and commissions for customers. Handmakes have always been my drive in the industry. We also do a lot of repairs, alterations and casting cleanups, which keeps a jewellery business going.
When did you first take an interest in the jewellery trade?
At 17, after finishing high school at a private art school in Cape Town, South Africa, I started a jewellery hobby course to expand my skills. I decided to do the full-time course, which taught me the foundation of techniques, then started working in the trade for different jewellers as a bench hand and learnt various skills from each workshop/jeweller.
The Manufacturing Jewellery Apprenticeship was a way of ticking off all the boxes in the trade, like repairs, intricate handmakes and all the theory necessary to be successful in the trade. I am so glad I took on and
finished this apprenticeship, it taught me so much.
Favourite type of jewellery to design and why?
My main inspiration for jewellery pieces is the beach and ocean, I love using ocean-hue gemstones and pearls in gold or silver to emphasise the beauty of nature. Wax carving gives me so much freedom to create intricately carved jewellery and some rough textured pieces to create a contrast between the higher polished pieces and gemstones. The waxes are sprued and sent off to the casting house to cast in a specific precious metal.
What are some of your favourite, perhaps international, jewellery trends right now?
Rough luxe jewellery and sculpture pieces, anything that replicates nature.
What do you think are the most important skills a jeweller should have?
I reckon an eye for detail, balance and proportion is crucial. An underrated skill is knowing how to clean up and polish a jewellery piece properly, it can make or break the design’s finish.
How do you relax away from the bench?
My main way of relaxing and having fun is surfing or being at the beach with my partner, two dogs and friends. Anything at the beach and in nature recharges me, my custom pieces are
mostly inspired by the sea. I genuinely love creating jewellery pieces so much that I often draw up new designs and play around at my bench when I'm not working.
How did you celebrate being the 2023 Apprentice of the Year?
I celebrated by popping a bottle of bubbles with my New Zealand family, broke the news to my family in South Africa and ordered some new tools for my workshop setup at home.
Goals for 2024?
Having a range of jewellery with a website, to sell directly to the public and stocking galleries in NZ and Australia. Elizabeth French Jewellery will properly be launched next year. (My full name is Jo-Ann Elizabeth French).
BECKS held a giveaway for visitors to its stand during the JWNZ Spring Trade Fair. Barbara Howard, from Petersens Jewellers, Bush Inn, Christchurch, was the lucky winner of a bottle of premium South Australia wine. Barbara is seen here receiving her prize from Greville Ingham, BECKS’ managing director.
For coverage of the JWNZ Fair see pages 28-33.
Australasian jewellery manufacturer and family business, Worth & Douglas Ltd, celebrated its 70th year in business this year.
“While we didn't host a large event or throw a grand party, we incorporated the anniversary spirit into our everyday interactions,” said John Worth. “We designed a special logo for the year, which has been prominently featured in our advertising materials, on invoices and even on branded chocolates that we distributed at trade show events. This approach allowed us to share the excitement and significance of this milestone with our valued clients and colleagues throughout the year.
“Additionally, as a token of our appreciation for our dedicated staff, we'll be celebrating our 70th year with a special morning tea together. Seventy years is truly a wonderful journey, and we look forward to many more years of serving our loyal customers and partners.”
UK company Austen & Blake has unveiled a new ‘proposal calendar’ for those planning to pop the question on Christmas Day. The five-day calendar features an extravagant surprise behind each door. The first four days feature a statement diamond ring, a bracelet, a necklace and a pair of earrings, which serve a dual purpose as Christmas gifts and a complete wedding day look - should the recipient say “yes”.
Austen & Blake’s custom-made jewellery specialists have left the fifth and final door empty, allowing for a chosen engagement ring to be added when the time is right.
Ecommerce manager for the luxury jewellers, Dia Campolmi said: “By leaving the last box empty, we also wanted to leave room for the personal touch that comes with choosing an engagement ring.”
The calendar is available with either natural diamond or lab-grown diamond creations, set in the buyer’s choice of precious metal.
Christine
christinep@webbs.co.nz
+64 27 929 5607
auckland
+64 9 529 5600
wellington
Webb's Fine Jewels, Watches & Luxury Accessories department are seeking entries for our online and live auctions of 2024.
We are seeking scintillating diamond and coloured stone jewellery in a variety of carat weights and sizes with pieces to suit all budgets. We are also looking to consign gold jewellery, both vintage and modern pieces including rings, necklaces, pendants and bracelets.
In June 2023, Webb’s auctioned a remarkable 3.01ct square emerald-cut loose diamond of D Colour, Flawless Clarity which realised the incredible price of $116,157. Jewels of this tier are highly coveted.
High-quality timepieces from recognised Swiss brands including Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega, Cartier, Audemars Piguet, and Tag Heuer are welcomed. Vintage and antique models, gold watches, and pocket watches will also see much attention come auction day.
Contact our specialist team for a complimentary appraisal, we would love to hear from you.
The Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) Autumn Trade Event in Birmingham in September was cancelled before close of play on day one, as the buying group was targeted by potential thieves.
The trade show was plunged into lock down after individuals attempted to gain access to the event in a “serious security breach”. At least three known attempts were made to access the show, with one suspect attempting to steal a handful of badges from the show’s registration desk.
The event went into lockdown at lunch time on the Sunday and after consulting with the police and event security, CMJ management made a formal statement to all attendees and exhibitors in the late afternoon announcing the closure, which included an evening function and the next day of trading.
Among the exhibitors was Australia’s West End showing the brand Georgini.
“Despite encountering a security breach at the CMJ Birmingham fair, Georgini's international expansion remains on a successful trajectory and we’re thrilled to announce our acceptance as a supplier to the CMJ,“ said Melinda Carey, Creative Director, Georgini.
“I believe this may be a first for an Australian brand, which is a groundbreaking achievement. We're immensely grateful to Colin Polkington from Nationwide for his invaluable
It was an eventful showing for the Georgini team, Melinda Carey and John Rose.
support and we see this as a significant victory for the Global Jewellers Network.
“Additionally, we had the opportunity to meet our UK Sales Manager, Mark Faulkner and our Ireland Sales Manager, Patrick McHale, in person for the first time. The time spent together was instrumental in strategising how we can better serve our stockists worldwide and gain a deeper understanding of market dynamics and retailer requirements. We're fortunate to have two highly respected sales managers supporting Georgini in these regions.”
A new Visa Billionaire Card has been released by the partnership between luxury group Majestas, Primavera Investments and watchmaker and jeweller Jacob & Co., thus creating a new competitor for the American Express Centurion black card.
The Billionaire Card, with diamonds decorating its gold-plated surface, is exclusively accessible to those with a significant amount of wealth and is restricted to just 150 lucky members who have been personally invited by the brand.
In addition to bragging rights, the Billionaire Card comes with a host of privileges including access to concerts, fashion shows and international sporting events. Card holders will have a dedicated 24/7 personal assistant, use of Insignia Jets and preferential rates at Luxury Hotel Collection properties.
Showcase’s August 2023 AGM focused on the group’s plans to improve the organisation, and proposed key resolutions for the future, to ensure management, staff, systems and technology support a quick transition to new ways of operating and response to needs and growth.
“We are delighted all resolutions were passed, to set the company on a solid path to drive us forward, while retaining a strong financial position,” said Chairman Terrence Keoghan. These resolutions included:
• Strengthening the Board by additional training to ensure Showcase has wellqualified directors who will improve the business for the future, with best governance practices.
• Changing the name of Australia and New Zealand’s premier jewellery buying and marketing group to Showcase Jewellers Group Ltd (from JIMACO Ltd) to capitalise on and enhance the organisation’s branding
According to the London-based Watch Register, the world's leading database of lost and stolen watches, Rolex watches are being targeted by casual and organised criminals because of the ease with which they can be sold for cash, leading to a dramatic rise in thefts from homes and people on the streets.
and strong positioning.
• Subject to legal advice and other necessary enquiries and reviews, the Board consider and proceed with restructuring the relationship
Almost 80,000 luxury watches valued at over £1 billion are currently recorded as lost or stolen by the Watch Register. The value is likely to be a considerable under-estimate because some thefts or losses are not reported.
Rolex watches make up 44% of the total database at the Watch Register, with an estimated value of £440
between it and its current and future shareholders, under a shareholders’ agreement and existing constitution, for improved efficiency and management.
million). Rolex’s Daytona, GMT and Oyster Perpetual models are the most frequently stolen because demand exceeds supply, waiting lists are so long at authorised dealers and prices are high on the secondary market.
Omega and Breitling are ranked second and third in terms of the value and volume of watches lost or stolen.
Distributed by NAJO PTY LTD
Contact: Helen Finlayson
The Brand Agent
M: +64 27 722 6000
E: helen@thebrandagent.co.nz
To mark the rapidly approaching America’s Cup in Barcelona in 2024, OMEGA has produced a logoinspired tribute to the defending champions Emirates Team New Zealand. The Seamaster Planet Ocean Deep Black ETNZ Edition was launched at the preliminary Regatta in Vilanova.
The 45.5 mm Seamaster Planet Ocean blends the deepest black with the turquoise of the Emirates Team New Zealand logo. Complementing the black ceramic case is a unidirectional bezel in brushed black ceramic with white enamel diving scale and triangleframed dot at 12, which includes white SuperLumiNova to emit a green glow in the dark.
As a salute to the crew, the caseback has an Emirates Team New Zealand logo with turquoise fern and white lettering. Providing the power inside the watch is OMEGA’s Master Chronometer Calibre 9900.
Los Angeles-based jewellery designer Jacquie Aiche has collaborated with Timex on a number of watches over the years. Her latest piece with Timex, the Legacy x Jacquie Aiche Sunrise ,is said to have been inspired by “the bliss and beauty found in new beginnings”.
Made from multi-coloured mother-of-pearl its dial has a mosaic of the sun rising above the ocean. The watch comes in a gender-neutral 36mm-sized steel case and bracelet with gold treatment, a pie dish bezel and crystals for hour
For over 35 years, Jewellery Services has been providing the jewellery trade with high quality repairs and production services
We operate from a 400sqm secure, purpose built facility in Auckland and complete more than 100,000 jobs per annum Our experienced team of jewellers, setters & diamond experts provide the highest level of quality and service
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Full Selections of Findings
For those looking for super sparkle, Audemars Piguet has launched a limited edition variation of its Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’ Extra Thin.
Available in both 18ct white gold and 18ct yellow gold, each 39mm model offers a sleek, monochromatic look, thanks to stones that complement the metal. For the white gold version, you get 1,528 brilliant cut diamonds adorning the case, dial and bracelet. Then, for the yellow gold version, you get 1,528 brilliant-cut yellow sapphires with the same full setting.
A 22-year-old man has been arrested for theft after he posed as a mannequin in front of a store window in a shopping centre in Warsaw, Poland, before robbing a jewellery kiosk. The man was captured on CCTV standing still against the glass shopfront of a store while holding a shopping bag.
Staff have said that they did not notice anything unusual when leaving the shopping centre, and reported that the man blended in with the shopfront in question alongside two genuine mannequins.
According to Polish police, the thief went “hunting” through a number of stores for items to steal as soon as “he felt safe”, ultimately choosing to rob a jewellery kiosk. The individual was already known to Warsaw Police, having committed a number of thefts throughout the area, including stealing money from tills and faces the possibility of a 10-year prison sentence for his crimes.
Highlights of New Bond Street Bonhams London Jewels September sale saw two charming and highly unusual garnet and gem-set turtle brooches mounted in gold, circa 1860. One with a central garnet cabochon carved to resemble a shell, set within a surround of garnet cabochons decorated with cushion-shaped and old brilliant-cut diamonds. The turtle’s head, feet and tail are set with pearls with circular-cut ruby accents. The brooch achieved £15,360.
The other turtle has a carved garnet shell within a surround of cushionshaped and old brilliant-cut diamonds and green guilloché enamel decoration. The head is accented by step-cut emeralds. The lot sold for £17,920.
“We are grateful for the invaluable support extended by Jarrett Ho and the team at HKTDC during September’s Hong Kong Watch and Clock Fair. Resuming our engagement with the fair after a pandemic-induced hiatus felt akin to rekindling with an old acquaintance. The vibrant atmosphere, alongside familiar faces from our trusted manufacturers, offered a reassuring return to normalcy.
“We also shook hands (literally) with some new potential partners, so keep your eyes peeled for the unveiling of new Olympic models in 2024. However, the pinnacle of our journey materialized during a meeting with Henriette Arvin and Hayley Ma from Obaku, culminating in our successful appointment as the New Zealand sales agent for the distinguished Obaku brand. This significant milestone not only underscores our business growth, but also heralds the return of a captivating brand to the New Zealand market after being absent for a few years.”
- Courtney MacKinnon, Olympic Swiss Watches
BY CANDLELIGHT
For you - just £25,000, a pair of solid pieces from Theo Fenell. .Handmade sterling silver pheasant scroll candlesticks, each stick sports a brace of beautifully modelled cock and hen pheasants rising from the bracken.
Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia
Contact: Helen Finlayson
The Brand Agent
M. +64 27 722 6000
E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz
Distributed by Duraflex Group Australia
Contact: Helen Finlayson
The Brand Agent
M. +64 27 722 6000
E. helen@thebrandagent.co.nz
Chicago-based auction house Hindman kicked off its inaugural New York sale season with the October auction: Time & Space: Watches From the Collection of Glen de Vries. The collection of more than 100 timepieces, which once belonged to late tech tycoon and billionaire Glen de Vries, fetched US$3,017,500. De Vries who flew into space aboard Jeff Bezos’ Blue Origin in October 2021, was killed in a small plane crash involving a Cessna 172 in a heavily wooded area outside Hampton Township, New Jersey, in November 2021, at the age of 49.
The single-owner collection included rare models from such celebrated watchmakers as F.P. Journe, Richard Mille and A. Lange & Söhne.
An unnamed client with passion for both horology and luxury motoring commissioned Vacheron Constantin to create a timepiece for the dashboard of his custom Rolls Royce Droptail.
Vacheron Constantin developed a single-edition Les Cabinotiers Armillary Tourbillon to complement the car’s wood veneer dashboard. It also had to be removable so the owner could admire it at home.
Vacheron Constantin and the owner agreed on a handwound calibre 1990, an adaptation of a movement used in 2015 for the maison’s most complicated timepiece, the Reference 57260 pocket watch. It has a bi-retrograde display with instantaneous return of the hours and minutes that is reminiscent of traditional motor car speedometers, although its titanium hands return to zero in the blink of an eye.
“The two centuries-old brands share a quest for perfection that consists of constantly pushing the limits of feasibility”, said Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin’s director of style and heritage. “This philosophy is an excellent catalyst for innovation and good taste, both technically and aesthetically.”
“Elma Ultrasonic Cleaners are well known within the jewellery industry, now Elma Ultrasonic Cleaners are today also being used in motorsport. Here is a bit of great news about an event we ran for Canteen...
Recently Techspan New Zealand (Elma’s Partners for Australasia) began to market directly to the motorsport field, via my son Jake, who works in Techspan in sales. Jake is a Drifter and competes at national competition level. His car, a GT86 LS3 V8, carries the Elma logo.
In October Jake, (supported by Techspan), ran a charity event for Canteen (teenagers living with cancer).
Jake’s event, dubbed ‘Drifteen – A Motorsport Experience for Canteen’, took 20 Canteeners drifting at Meremere Drift Park, home of the Drift Academy.
“The event was a resounding success and it is thanks to your hard work and dedication that it went off without a hitch,” said Mas Aghazi, Canteen Aotearoa. “Your meticulous planning and attention to detail were evident throughout the entire event. The participants had an amazing time and the event’s success was a testament to your expertise and dedication.”
The Drifteen event will become a ‘hub event’ for Canteen, bringing more excitement for the youth participants. Needless to say, I am very proud of Jake.“
- Tim Fastnedge, Elma-Techspan NZRolex has purchased luxury watch manufacturer and retailer and 135-year-old family business, Bucherer. No purchase price was given. Bucherer, which has more than 100 retail outlets worldwide, has sold Rolex products for 90 years. The company will keep its name and continue to operate independently and will be integrated into the Rolex group once the transaction receives regulatory approval.
A statement from Rolex said the Bucherer acquisition came from “the choice made by Bucherer, in the absence of direct descendants of Jörg Bucherer, the company’s former chairman and owner to sell his company’s business”. Mr Bucherer died in early November at the age of 87.
A titanium and enamel brooch in the hyper-realistic shape of a lolly containing precious stones such as Sri Lankan sapphire, Brazilian paraiba tourmaline and Burmese spinel reveals the imaginative world of Chinese designer Xiao Xintong AKA A.win Siu. The designer founded her brand in 2017 to tell stories and arouse emotions through bold colours and surprising metal and mineral combinations.
Worn for fun or pleasure, this pair of jewellery glasses in titanium with yellow sapphire, amber and diamonds, is a witness to the designer's unconventional approach. Tourmaline, sapphire and titanium intermingle in a pair of earrings to recreate the visual effect of magnetic induction field lines expressing the mutual influence between man and mother nature.
Crystal jewellery brand, Swarovski, has announced that it is joining forces with Disney 100 Years of Wonder (Disney100) - a year-long celebration marking the 100th anniversary of The Walt Disney Company.
Disney has invited some of the world’s most-renowned creative visionaries from the worlds of fashion, film, music and art to honour 100 years of artistry and imagination by contributing Disney-inspired pieces in support of Make-A-Wish (USA). Swarovski will contribute a replica of the bespoke solid crystal slipper created for Disney’s 2015 movie, Cinderella.
The slipper features 221 facets and is hewn from solid Aurora Borealis crystal, which possesses reflective properties and radiates a magical shimmer.
Issue Two, Jewellery Time magazine April 1992, featured a story about Auckland’s landmark clocks at the University’s Old Arts Building, the Ferry Building and the Ponsonby Post Office. Responsible for servicing these clocks was the Precision Watch Company operated by Jim MacKinnon. Jim’s company was involved in the restoration of the three clocks and contracted to maintain them.
Fast forward 31 years and the clock in the now former Ponsonby Post Office building continues to tick on, thanks to a group of volunteers including former Anvil Jewellery managing director and now IT consultant Marcel de Witte, who coincidentally was a member of that 1992 magazine’s editorial committee.
Construction of the Post Office started in 1912. Described as a ‘very free, idiosyncratic example of Edwardian Baroque architecture’, it cost £3,700, half of which was contributed by the residents of Ponsonby. The clock was added in 1913 and the tower heightened by 10 feet from what was originally planned, to enhance the building’s prominent site.
The tower has twice narrowly survived pressure from bureaucrats for its demolition. It was rated an earthquake risk in the 1940s and again in the 1970s when the Ministry of Works was concerned about cracks in the parapet. On these occasions campaigns by Auckland Council, local
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residents and the Historic Places Trust successfully saved it.
Since then, the building has seen its fair share of operators. NZ Post ended its long association in 2002 by moving its Post Shop on the ground floor to nearby shop front premises at Three Lamps. The building now houses Hotel Ponsonby, a gastro pub venue.
In 2020 after a period when regular winding had ceased and the clock was permanently set at 12, locals called for it to be restored to working order.
So, taking up the call, every Friday morning for the last three years members of the volunteer team. climb the external fire ladder, adjust the time if necessary, clean and wind the clock. The clock can chime the hours, but remains silent because of neighbours’ complaints in the past.
The clock’s accuracy is determined by a gently swinging pendulum and a finely balanced escapement. The clock is wound by winching heavy weights to the top of the tower. The only allowance to modern times is an electric motor driving the winch.
“We need to do this on a weekly basis. After that, it would have very little life in it. Occasionally the motor fails and we have to wind it by hand, which is very physical work,” said Marcel. “But we do get to enjoy the best views of the city.”
Accompanying Marcel most Friday mornings is retired architect and friend Philip Jones. Philip, who was a part owner of the building 15 years ago and also keeps the building’s flag flying, says occasionally the clock stops, caused by corrosion or the weather.
Philip: “Based on trial and error we have a good system going to determine what has ceased up, disconnecting parts of the clock to find the problem. We don’t attempt anything that is beyond us, but call upon the help of Auckland horologist Michael Cryns, who is familiar with the clock.
“One of the main things we have done over the past years is to install a clear acrylic dust-proof case which covers the entire working parts. We did this on the advice of a clock maker who said keeping the dust out would increase clock’s life for another 100 years.”
The Post Office building is historic in another sense. In March 1920 the Postmaster Augustus Braithwaite was murdered in his home. His keys were then used to rob the Post Office strong room.
Fingerprints on the cash boxes matched Dennis Gunn's prints, recorded when he was arrested as a military defaulter. Dennis Gunn was arrested and charged with the murder and burglary.
His five-day trial at the Auckland Supreme Court in May 1920 is famous as being the first time in the British Empire the prosecution sought a conviction for a capital crime based almost entirely on fingerprint evidence. A verdict of guilty was returned for the robbery (the takings from the Post Office had amounted to 67 pounds, 14 shillings, and 5 pence), and a verdict of guilty was returned for the murder of Augustus Braithwaite. Gunn was promptly sentenced to death and hanged in June 1920.
Introducing Florian Beck, owner and operator of The Bryon Jewellers Workshop, Byron Bay, NSW. Florian’s reputation for versatility and creative flare sees him in high demand.
When did you start your business?
I opened Byron Jewellers Workshop in the Byron Arcade in 2003.
What has been your most crucial milestone moment?
I would say taking the leap in starting my own business after only 4½ years in the jewellery trade, just after my apprenticeship.
The Jewellers Workshop specialises in ...
We specialise in custom handmade jewellery, repairs and remodelling. Current best sellers would probably be engagement rings and necklaces.
How have you continued to evolve as a designer and what keeps you motivated about jewellery design?
I enjoy travelling and often go to the large trade fairs - Vicenza, Bangkok and Hong Kong - where the latest trends and styles are on display. I try to include these in my upcoming work.
I think the European style is lacking in the trade on this side of the world and only a handful of jewellers incorporate this in their craftsmanship.
What is your favourite type of jewellery to design and why?
My favourite jewellery is when I find a
beautiful stone or pearl that inspires a design, which could really end up being anything.
What is your most favourite piece you have made?
A piece that I made with an oval yellow diamond. I had a couple of loose pink round diamonds sitting on my bench and I just started bending up some gold and ended up with a unique pendant with three briolettes.
Who do you work beside? And their role in the business?
In my store I do 90% percent of everything from designing, customer service, to display, to set up, to repairing, to polishing. My brother Daniel does my setting work for me.
How have your customers’ tastes in design and materials changed over the years?
There has been a lot of changes with trends and fashion, but the one thing that hasn’t changed is that people still want good handmade jewellery. I’m not a fan of CAD. It has its place,
but proper handmade jewellery in my opinion is where the proper jeweller stands out from the rest..
What is the most important skill for a jewellery designer to have?
Be passionate. Enjoy intricate work, love creating new and wonderful things and have an interest in fashion.
How do you relax away from the business?
A great way to relax is fly fishing on the Tongariro river in New Zealand. And I enjoy restoring my collection of vintage pre-1960s Porsches tucked away in the garage.
Marquise diamond ring in 18ct white gold, surrounded by 22 diamonds and six down each side.
18ct white gold, pink sapphire and diamond ring.
Bollywood dancing is described as... A colourful, dynamic and highly theatrical dance style seen in Indian films. It combines classical forms of dance including traditional Indian, folk, salsa and belly-dance, while also incorporating more contemporary western forms such as hip hop, jazz and funk. Having no set rules, Bollywood dancing is the perfect means to encourage freedom of expression and connexion to others.
Connecting with others was certainly the intention of the Bollywood night of Indian food and dance at the RNZYS on the eve of the JWNZ Spring Trade Fair, although some of the dance moves
Guests at the Bollywood evening included
were a bit questionable despite good guidance from MC Anju Desai.
“The idea was to have fun and enable guests to catch up with others, while enjoying a cheap and cheerful evening,”
said fair organiser Debbie Whiting. “Our plan is to keep to a similar relaxed format next year, but with an exciting new theme. Be prepared to have more fun.”
“From the feedback questionnaire I sent out to the exhibitors I would say 98% were extremely happy with the day and have re-booked their space for next year,” said fair organiser Debbie Whiting. “The common theme among the exhibitors is that they all want more space, but unfortunately, we haven’t got a lot more space, we can’t grow much bigger. We can add another five or six stands upstairs in another room, but we want to maintain a boutique environment In a very special venue and keep the fair affordable and sustainable.
“Safety measures will be even tighter next year. The issue of security was heightened when the CMJ Fair in Birmingham, held on the same day, was cancelled because of security issues. I would hate that to happen to our exhibitors, that we would have to close the fair down and send them away after only a few hours of trading.
“Next year we would also introduce more hosts to encourage people to go upstairs and into each of the rooms. As welcoming as our Reception staff are, we need more people to act as guides. We would also look at extending the day by half an hour. It was still busy at 4pm -
it seemed to end too quickly.
“I would like to thank our fair sponsors Star Gems & Jewellery, Landau Jewellery, Pacific Time, Morris and Watson and PEKA and also Chemgold for the visitor coffees.
“Visitor numbers were up on last year and with 62 tables, the rooms
Thank you to the companies who donated spot prizes for some lucky visitors....
Karen Walker ‘new’ Runaway Girl stg silver thread earrings (Worth & Douglas), Esse marcasite and blue agate stg silver brooch (A M Imports).
were buzzing. Add free parking, free freshly-made barista coffee, free muffins and then bubbles at the end of the day, there is no better thing to do on a Sunday. There was a lot of happy people there, which made my role so rewarding.”
Freshwater pearl strand (Twentyfive 7).
Z Tag pricing system product selection (G & A Warburtons).
Royal Doulton diffuser (Susi Chinnery-Brown).
Feedback received from a selection of fair exhibitors and visitors...
DGA AND NAJO HAD A STRONG, positive fair and would look to exhibit again next year. The fair had a good energy about it, with customers in the door at 9:30am and still there after closing. It was excellent for both DGA owner Phil Edwards and Najo Sales Manager Frances O’Connor to meet the retailers directly and hear their thoughts on business in NZ.
There was caution with what was being purchased, with a mind towards Christmas and consumer spending, but sales were still strong and the boutique feel of the fair, the location and venue made it a very worthwhile event. We have already diarised the 2024 JWNZ Fair.
- Helen Finlayson, The Brand Agent, DGA Duraflex Group AustraliaI THOUGHT THE FAIR HAD A GREAT overall vibe to it this year. Customers were very engaged with our new stock and the location created a real buzz to the event.
Yes, we were really happy with our sales from the day, especially with the traction on our new products.
- Geoff Kidd, PEKATHE FAIR WAS WELL ATTENDED
AND it was great seeing some South Island retailers. There was a great vibe in the rooms and the retailers I spoke to all said they enjoyed the variety of exhibitors, seeing what’s new and networking. We were very happy with the day and will definitely be back again next year.
The Bollywood night, too, was a lot of fun and we look forward to seeing what the theme will be next year. Our thanks to Debbie Whiting and the team for putting on a successful fair.
- John Worth, Worth & Douglas LtdRACHEL MCLEOD AND MAHESH
Nathoo attended the New Zealand fair and observed that this year's fair appeared busier than the previous one, with many familiar faces and an influx of new attendees. There was an overall sense of positivity, albeit with an air of anticipation regarding the election results.
West End’s day at the fair was successful and Rachel is eagerly looking forward to follow-up visits.
- Melinda Carey, Georgini, West EndTHE VENUE WAS GREAT AND THE fair had a really good vibe. We had a steady flow of customers all day and lots of interest and sales on our new range releases, including our Australian sapphire and opal stone set rings and bespoke service.
We were very happy with the show and picked up quite a few new accounts. Thank you for a well-planned and successful event. Greville Ingham and Larah Brown from our management team came over from Australia and they were impressed how busy the fair was for us. It was a great day for Team Becks.
- Mary Louise Squire, BECKS Group AustraliaAS A REGULAR ATTENDEE OF THE JWNZ Fair (have never missed one), I was pleased to see what a success this year’s Fair turned out to be. Although we are a ‘watch only’ company nowadays, we have many old friends and contacts throughout the trade, and it was marvellous to be able to catch up with them all again. We were able to buy new product lines that were not at the Sydney Fair a couple of weeks earlier, showing how vital it is to attend the NZ Fair each year if you want to keep up to date.
The venue was again great, with extra space, and thus more exhibitors. The atmosphere was wonderful, our volunteers were as great as over and to be applauded for the way they made everything so successful.
- Ash Wells, Capital Watch Services LtdTHE POSITIVITY AND STEADY stream of visitors who had brought their ‘shopping lists’ with them lead to a very successful day of sales for us. The location and set up certainly gave off positive and relaxing vibes and much chatting took place as orders were being placed.
Kudos to Debbie Whiting and Susi
Chinnery-Brown for such a great and well organised event.
- Roland Plank, Solar JewelleryWE ENJOYED THE JEWELLERY FAIR and gained a few new customers. We found the upstairs location a bit isolated though and afterwards a couple of our current customers said they didn’t realise that we were upstairs, so while the coffee and muffin lured some customers upstairs we did miss some valuable trade.
We would like to attend next year’s fair, but would prefer to book a stand downstairs if there is one available. Thanks for all your hard work and for making the experience so enjoyable.
- Cathy Rogers, Wildside GiftsI HAD A GREAT DAY AT THE FAIR. I thought the table I had was the perfect size for my display and in a great position for foot traffic. We had a great response to the display we had. We signed up 27 new clients and met a lot of existing clients which was fantastic.
I feel the venue was great for the exhibitors that were downstairs; I spoke to a couple of people that were exhibiting upstairs and they didn’t seem to be getting the same amount of foot traffic.
All in all, we really enjoyed our day; 4pm was a great cut off time, I wouldn’t have wanted it to have gone on for longer. Many thanks and I will be back again next year.
- Julie Jepson, New Zealand Jewellery FindingsVERY IMPRESSED WITH THE TRADE fair. The venue is great, as well was the atmosphere. Good to catch up with so many friends, both retail and wholesale. A great selection of wholesalers with a few new ones from Australia. I took my staff to the fair. They liked seeing all the product and meeting staff face to face. A great fair.
- Brent Morrison, Petersens Jewellery LtdTHE FAIR WAS VERY GOOD.
Because we don’t write any business at these fairs, it was great to catchup with
our NZ customers. A good number of exhibitors are our customers, so it’s a great way to catch up with everyone. Also, having it on the one day increases the chances to bump into customers who are visiting. I spent a lot of the
afternoon reconnecting with customers and building relationships face to face. This is always good value.
I’m not sure how the exhibitors saw the fair, it would be interesting to know if they write business or just wave
the flag for their businesses as a form of advertising. I hope they found the experience worthwhile.
- Adam Van Sambeek, Morris and Watson Ltd
There on the day ...
Every business needs a clear vision and mission. Our mission was to disrupt with innovation, focusing on our client’s needs and success by ultimately changing how jewellers buy diamonds and jewellery.
SPONSORED CRAIG MILLER
JC Jewels CEO
Our vision is to transform the Australian and New Zealand industry from an ageold analogue environment to a new digital landscape. To achieve this, we developed and brought to market Australia's first-ever local diamond marketplace, JC Jewels.
New Zealand is equally as important to us, to ensure New Zealand has our full attention, It is with great pleasure that we welcome Helen Thompson-Carter, an industry veteran, to the JC Jewels team, to ensure we can service all your needs.
Why change the way you buy your diamonds and jewellery?
The world around us has monumentally changed. Like it or not, the jewellery industry has to follow suit. Unfortunately, with change comes discomfort, but the rewards bring efficiencies and success to those who engage. In 2019, we took the plunge, blocked all fears of the unknown and focussed on the commercial gain for all.
We began the big transition from our traditional ways of the past by investing in the longevity and future of our clients—a risky call at the time. We commenced to bring the first ever B2B Australian-owned local diamond marketplace to carry our clients to the next level.
Most industries have moved to digital and more sustainable game-changing models. More importantly, our clients are closing more sales that are quicker with higher margins and increased conversion rates with less effort due to efficient technology. Our diamond marketplace presents hundreds of thousands of certified diamonds on our clients’ screens, all with 360-degree videos, clearer than traditional ten times magnification. Our platform empowers our clients to become diamond merchants, meaning they see all the goods on the table—not merely the goods traditional diamond merchants place in their local stock they choose to buy that makes them money.
An important factor with our new model versus the old is that benefits our clients. Essentially, we put all the goods on the table. We bring you the global diamond supply, empower you to grab the bargains, and ensure you make more money and grasp the best pick on every sale—every time you log in. We then facilitate the gruelling logistics process with no smoke, mirrors or minimum purchases. Our clients are making money with this secret formula that improves their game.
Jewellers have held substantial inventories of diamond stock, demanding an extensive capital investment, delivering slow stock turn, and endlessly impacting cash flow. It frequently results in less margin or occasionally a loss at the time of sale due to exposure to pricing fluctuations and the need to clear aged stock. By buying on demand, in real-time, the JC Jewels diamond marketplace removes the stress and pressures related to warehousing goods. The best part is the positive impact on cash flow, solving one major business challenge.
Additionally, our diamond marketplace is a platform where our clients can buy goods directly from the source with minimal middleman margins, a broader range, and more choice of goods, allowing jewellers to close more sales. I am humbled to see we are onto something, or perhaps, we are the catalysts to one of the most outstanding changes our local industries have seen in decades as we move into this new phase. It is fast becoming the new norm across the globe.
Have you made the change?
This article is not a pitch. It’s the reality of where our industry is heading. I am not naive. This shift will eliminate some middlemen businesses, but change is inevitable. At JC Jewels, our in-house tech team updates our portal daily as our clients share feedback. This month, we launched our new jewellery range with over 1000 SKUs, this will assist our clients in holding less finished jewellery inventory, as they have become accustomed with their loose diamonds.
Changing how you order diamonds and fine jewellery is now in full swing. I want to thank our clients for embracing this change with Australia and NZ's B2B diamond marketplace, believing in my vision to modernise our businesses, and taking us to the next level. We always want your feedback to help drive your sales and make it easier for you to achieve the best result in the fastest time on every opportunity.
New Zealand Office: 0274 203 137
Sydney Office: +612 8054 0606
Melbourne Office: +613 7020 7478
Log in to the JC Jewels Diamond Portal to see the full range of available diamonds and gemstones. jcjewels.com.auworld.”
While jewellery suppliers were a major attraction at the fair, the event encompassed a spectrum of business essentials, from marketing and branding to apparel, supplies and technology, as well as presentations from business experts. The JIF's practical benefits were also evident in the services offered, including a creche for busy parents, professional headshots, hand
massages and even an oyster butler.
Italian luxury trends forecaster and speaker at the JIF, Paola De Luca said: “Thank you for having me, together with other amazing professionals and specialists. The experience with the Jewellery Industry Network has been amazing. I am looking forward to seeing you again in Australia.”
Also gathered under the same roof were representatives from industry
The Jewellery Industry Fair held at the Carriageworks, a multi-arts urban cultural precinct at Redfern, Sydney in August, described itself as not just an event, but an experience. After the three successful trading days Managing Director of the Jewellery Industry Network and fair organiser, Laura Moore, said: “The Jewellery Industry Fair champions the Australian industry in every facet and at our heart, we strive to not only celebrate its immense talent, but encourage growth, collaboration and advancement by bringing together industry leaders not just from Australia, but from all over the
Thank you for visiting our stand at the jewellery tradeshow! We had a great time showcasing our latest collection of jewellery pieces. If you haven’t had the chance to meet us yet, please get in touch with us to see our new collection.
We look forward to serving you soon!
Call +64 22 101 3255 or email us at Satish@lagani.co.nz
associations - Jewellers Association of Australia (JAA), Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA), National Council of Jewellery Valuers (NCJV), Gold and Silversmiths Guild of Australia (GSGA), Diamond Guild of Australia (DG), Jewellers and Watchmakers of
New Zealand (JWNZ), and the Opals Association of Australia (OAA).
Regarding her focus in the future, Laura said: “We focus on building beneficial outcomes for the industry. There is so much good, wisdom and collective experience around. Our work
is to unify these stakeholders for the betterment of the industry.”
The next JIF Fair will be held in Melbourne March 9 &10. For more information: jewelleryindustryfair.com.
Nearly 15,000 buyers from 95 countries and regions attended the 42nd HKTDC Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair and 11th Salon de TE, organised by the Hong Kong Trade Development Council (HKTDC), Hong Kong Watch Manufacturers Association Ltd and The Federation of Hong Kong Watch Trades & Industries Ltd. During the fairs, the results of the 40th Hong Kong Watch Design Competition were announced.
The Hong Kong Watch Design Competition has been striving to elevate the design and quality of Hong Kong watches and clocks and encourage creative ideas, while also identifying local design talent. The competition featured an Open Group and a Student
Group, with the themes The Beauty of Perspective and Game Code, respectively.
In the Open Group, Tam Kwok Tung emerged as champion with SCROLL BAR. By ingeniously manipulating perspective, the design creates a sense
of depth within the confined space of the wrist, revealing the aesthetic allure of traditional mechanical watches.
The first runner-up was Chan Kar Him with TRAVERSE, which features an entirely transparent case and employs a horizontal assembly method to fully
highlight the exquisite craftsmanship of watch movement.
Second runner-up was Heromex Watch Company Limited for its design, MONDRIAN. Inspired by the Dutch artist Piet Mondrian, the watch uses basic shapes and primary colours to create an abstract composition. The radiating black lines on the dial are complemented by scattered colour blocks and a skeleton movement, expressing the aesthetics of perspective.
Within the Student Group, Wong Yin Yeung clinched the champion title for his
design, TANZZLE. The designer believed the distance between people brought by the pandemic could be bridged by games in the post-pandemic era. His watch features a foldable design and incorporates a Tangram on the watch face. Wearers can engage in matches with friends anytime and anywhere by racing to form various shapes and graphics with the Tangram.
The first runner-up of the Student Group was Pui Hong Yiu with OVER GAME, which features a yellow and black square case that resembles a mini
arcade game machine. The face of the watch showcases a scene from the classic game Pac-Man. Meanwhile on the back, a maze game with two steel balls represents the Pac-Man characters giving chase and eluding capture.
The second runner-up was Kwong Wai Yin for TARGET. Inspired by the ever-challenging claw machine, she created a watch case in the shape of a coin, symbolising a chance to play, as well as a catch-type clasp. The design conveys the idea of seizing every opportunity.
In September Christie’s London hosted The Wheel of Time, the largest exhibition in Europe to date of the exquisite work of Wallace Chan, renowned Chinese jewellery creator, visual artist and innovator.
Through 150 pieces of jewellery, together with six titanium sculptures, some of which have never before been seen publicly, Chan considers the act of creation, looking back on major moments in his continuing career across five decades.
A highlight of the exhibition was the Legend of the Colour Black, a remarkable black diamond shoulder
brooch sculpture. The impressive centre stone of the piece, one of the largest known cut black diamonds in the world, weighs 312.24cts, alongside silver grey diamonds, crystal sapphire, black agate, titanium and the Wallace Chan Porcelain, a material Chan has spent years developing which is five times stronger than steel.
Chan began his journey as a sculptor
and painter, but it was his fascination with gemstones that guided him toward an extraordinary path. Renowned for his exceptional skill in gemstone carving, he weaves together ancient traditions and modern innovation, fashioning masterpieces that are said to ‘captivate the eye and soul’.
Brooches are sometimes seen as very traditional and somewhat old-fashioned, but luxury jeweller and watchmaker, Boucheron, has long disdained this view. Using the classic iron-on fabric patch as a creative starting point, Boucheron artistic director Claire Choisne has added several luxe versions to the Paris company’s 2023 More is More High Jewellery collection. What makes these DO Not Iron! thin badges so individual is that they are adorned with colourful pops of resin and lacquer, combined with black and white candy stripes and encrusted with precious gemstones and diamonds. The wearable artworks collection can be worn on collars, coats, lapels and more.
A model wears a trio of Boucheron Do Not Iron! brooches, including Wladimir the Cat; the Hokusai Wave and a blue Hydrangea flower. The latter in diamonds and lacquer in yellow gold, white gold, and silver.
Boucheron’s cicada brooch with a 2.14 carat Mozambique tourmaline, chrysoprases, yellow sapphires and diamonds with lacquer in yellow and white gold.
Boucheron Do Not Iron! Pansy brooch with a 0.84 carat yellow sapphire, pink quartz, mother of pearl, diamonds, yellow sapphires, amethysts and rhodolites, decorated with lacquer in white and yellow gold and titanium.
Wladimir the Cat brooch with sapphires, quartz, mother-of-peal and diamonds, decorated with lacquer in white gold.
www
Final dates 2023
20th November Handmade Chains & Bangles
29th November
4th December
6th December
7th December
11th December
11th December
20th December
Refining: Sweeps
Casting: Master Patterns & Mould
Fabrication: Special Orders
Refining: Lemel and Scrap
Casting: 3D Print and Cast
Casting: Wax from mould
Last Dispatch day
We thank you for your support in 2023 and look forward to working with you in the new year!
Have a safe and happy break!
Fit for a mayor.
It certainly made a change from creating engagement rings. Last year jewellery designer and owner of Mt Eden Jewellers, Wayne Jeffers, took on the challenge of disassembling, repairing and reorganising the Auckland Council’s mayoral chain.
“I have owned the business for 13 years. The previous owner, John Howells, had worked on the chain years ago, so that’s why the chain came to me,” said Wayne.
“The chain needed a lot of restoration work, as many of the links were broken and pieces like a kiwi and a silver fern were missing from the coat of arms. I pulled it apart and also added two plates, with the names and length of service of two recent mayors, Len Brown and Phil Goff.”
The 133-year-old chain, linked at the front to a Maltese Cross with the inscription Auckland City Council 1871, is made of solid 9ct and 18ct gold. It’s a complicated piece with the three rows of chain all connected to the row in front and the row behind.
Wayne: “It doesn’t sit flat, it has to follow the shape of the shoulder and it’s not flexible, which makes it easy to damage. During the process I had to try it on for size many times like a dressmaker needs a model.”
With the chain now back in the Council’s wardrobe, Wayne is sure to see it again when it comes the turn of the present mayor Wayne Brown’s
name plate to be added.
“Along with the other jewellers who have added name tags over the last 100 years or so, I’m now part of its history.”
(Auckland City Council was the local government authority for Auckland City, New Zealand, from 1871 to 1 November 2010, when it and Auckland's six other city and district councils were amalgamated to form the Auckland Council.)
Inspired by pairs of creatures from the same species whose DNA makes them natural ‘Sworn Enemies’, London designer Stephen Webster presents a collection of five limited-edition brooches, each depicting the elaborate nature of combat and choreographed symmetry between the fighting pairs. Each brooch is presented as an objet d’art and showcases versatility and acumen of Stephen Webster craftsmanship and design.
s Ramification
Rams are called rams for a reason. When bleating just doesn’t cut it as a chat up line, the males of so many species resort to various displays of testosterone fuelled masculinity. Equipped with some serious head gear, rams literally bang their heads together. There are of course, many health and safety repercussions resulting from prolonged head butting. After a relatively short bout, the first signs of injury are apparent. The victor may have won the girl, but boy does he pay the price. Often justifying his bloody condition by bleating “you should see the other guy.”
These rutgers are sculpted from titanium and 18ct yellow gold, set with baguette-cut white diamonds and black spinels, with carved black and white moonstone heads.
The most unlikely of ‘Sworn Enemies’ are the demure, beautiful and very busy hummingbirds. Believe it or not, any given pair can’t stand the sight of each other. The feud is centred around the amount of energy required for hummingbirds to stay airborne, meaning that individuals need to protect their food supply. Should an outsider dare to enter another’s territory, woe betide the perpetrator, because the repercussions can be fatal.
Our feuding featherweights are crafted from titanium and 18ct white gold with blackened silver and an array of gemstones, including black diamonds, blue, purple, pink, orange and yellow sapphires and tzavorite garnets, with beaks carved from
Fiddler crabs are just plain antisocial. At the drop of the tide, they are out looking for trouble. Armed with a single ‘Pop Eye’ - like pincer, which interestingly can appear as either left or right-handed protrusions. The strategy is to disarm the opponent as soon as possible. Once the oversized pincer has been amputated, the crab becomes completely defenceless and vulnerable. The amputee scuttles off to hide under a rock until a new defence mechanism has fully grown back.
Stephen Webster’s fiddle players are created in titanium and 18ct white gold, inlayed with natural turquoise and set with blue sapphires and colourless white diamonds.
Cobras have a sting in their tails when it comes to interspecies face offs. Their intolerance for their brethren stems from the combination of territorial disputes and hunger. Cobras are the only snakes that are cannibals. Usually, the longest one wins by administering a venom-laced bite which stuns the opponent. The victor then seals the win by swallowing the ‘by then’ comatose unfortunate looser.
These cobras are sculpted from titanium and 18ct gold, inlayed with carved green agate and mother-of-pearl, set with colourless white diamonds and emeralds with white diamonds for eyes.
Roosters serve two purposes, the first to serve as the rural alarm clock, cockadoodledooing at the crack of dawn 365 days a year. The other is to keep an entire flock of hens happy. Should another cock dare to trespass upon another cock’s plot, that’s when the spurs, beaks, claws and squawking really kick in. In a frenzy of feathers, only one cock survives to wake the world the next morning.
The raging roosters pictured are created in titanium, set with black and white diamonds and blue sapphires and a carved agate comb and head, Onyx eyes and 18ct yellow gold beaks complete the look.
Australian jewellery brand, TOTI, launched in 2022 by equestrian Edwina Tops-Alexander, is debuting two bangles for equestrian fans.
The Challenge Diamond Bangle is available in 18ct white, pink or yellow gold with white diamonds is fashioned from the brand’s monogram. The piece is adorned with diamonds set in a pavé arrangement.
The Challenge Cord Bangle, available in yellow gold or silver with seven colour cord options, is made from recycled plastic bottles.
A percentage of all TOTI sales are donated to ITOT, a foundation founded by the TOTI owner that delivers equine therapy to help adults and children with disabilities to live more fulfilling lives.
Japanese luxury jewellery brand Mikimoto chose to honour the 130-year anniversary of the invention of the cultured pearl in a new high jewellery collection that celebrates the pearl's birthplace - the Kingdom of Poseidon.
Founded in 1893 by Kokichi Mikimoto, a Japanese entrepreneur and the creator of the first-ever cultured pearl, the Mikimoto brand grew from a simple door-to-door sales business to stocking boutiques across the globe.
Called ‘Praise To The Sea’, each of the 50 one-of-a-kind pieces celebrates one of Mother Nature’s greatest gifts - the sea, which is also the entire reason of the existence of the Mikimoto empire.
From Mikimoto, 18ct white gold, White South Sea cultured pearl, alexandrite, aquamarine, tanzanite, tourmaline, amethyst, garnet, sapphire, spinel and diamond earrings.
This year’s top vote-getters at 2023 JCK Jewellers Choice Awards were green and blue coloured stones, edgy yellow gold and big lab-grown diamond designs.
The grand prize winner was Tariq Riaz, (Abu Dhabi) in the US$5000-US$10,000 section. His 18ct rose gold ring with 2.84 cts. t.w. diamonds and AbrazoFIT adjustable fit technology was named for a 260-year-old historic landmark and museum in Abu Dhabi.
The Influencers’ Choice winner, (US$2,501–US$5,000), was this ring with 2.32 ct. Brazilian watermelon tourmaline and 0.25 ct. t.w. round brilliant diamonds in recycled 14ct gold, by Parlè Gems.
US$5,000 & under - a necklace with 0.15 ct. t.w. diamonds and diamond-cut texture leaf in 14ct gold, US$2,225 from Gabriel & Co. New York.
Editors’ Choice winner, over US$10,000 section. A pink poppy ring with 3.57 ct. brilliant-cut pink sapphire, 1.84 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds and 0.65 ct. t.w. pear-shape emeralds in 20ct rose and 22ct yellow gold - US$61,450; Susan Gordon Jewelry, New York.
Over US$2,500 - Cufflinks with 2.31 cts. t.w. oval cat’s-eye alexandrite, 1.37 cts. t.w. round alexandrite, and 0.2 ct. t.w. round diamonds in black rhodium platinum. omiprive.com.
As 2023 draws to a close, it is time for reflection on how the year went and how will the Christmas season pan out for our industry.
The JWNZ Spring Trade Fair was another great success thanks to our extremely hardworking Trade Fair Manager Debbie Whiting and our Executive Secretary Craig Anderson, both of whom put in huge hours to pull it all together. And now, post the general election, we are all doing a bit of navel gazing and wondering what will come next. I’ve been out on the road and talking to retailers. October produced mixed results between North and South Islands, but there is definitely a more up-beat attitude since!
There are many reasons affecting business - upgrading of streets, removal of convenient parking and the cost of living putting the squeeze on disposable income. Then there is quite a buoyant and rebounding tourist market, which has seen many retailers busy as bees. I’ll be interested to see
what happens in the New Year.
I recently attended the Jewellery World trade fair at the Carriageworks in Sydney. Great venue with a good vibe and nice to see a few NZ faces at the fair. Not quite as busy as Melbourne, but good mixture of exhibitors and given that it was the first time in Sydney, a reasonable attendance with some good business written.
Dare I say there seems to have been a ‘slow down’ in ram raids. A relief to all of us, but there is no room for complacency. Having good security plans in place is still a must and welltrained staff who know what to do when the unthinkable happens.
Congratulations to our Apprentice of the Year 2023, Jo-Ann French, a fabulous result and I look forward to following your journey in the future.
The JWNZ committee is still working on completing the new Constitution and will have it ready to be presented at the 2024 AGM. Seems to be taking forever, but our hands are tied until the
I would like to apologise for not being able to attend the last JWNZ AGM. I had more pressing matters to attend to - my wife’s birthday!
We have finalised the date and venue for next year’s NZHI AGM. It is being held the weekend of 24 May 2024 at the Tides Hotel in Nelson. If you are not a member of the NZHI, but would like to come along, please contact with me.
We are also looking forward to our next apprenticeship training day at our Whangaparaoa Training Rooms. This is being held the weekend of 16 March 2024. The Training Committee is putting together some practical exercises that are mandatory in the Training Manual, but might not occur frequently in every workplace. These training days give our apprentices an opportunity to gain confidence, problem solve (especially where replacements aren’t available), hone their general skills and learn to turn a potentially tricky job into a
straightforward one.
While we currently have just three apprentices, we are aware that there are trainees that are not formally registered. If you employ a trainee, please consider offering them an apprenticeship. This has multiple benefits. For the apprentice they become awarded with a recognised qualification and for the employer there is a sustained contribution towards your business before the apprenticeship ends. Ours is a small, but skilled profession and it’s important that we all contribute towards its future.
Anthony Cousins from the parts supply house, Cousins UK, has released some good news recently. The court case that was lost in Swiss courts has been resurrected and given a new lease of life with the opportunity for it to be heard in the English High Court system. The date of 26 February 2024 has been set for the start of the hearing and we wish Anthony and his legal
framework is completed. I would like to wish you all successful Christmas trading and I hope you find time to relax with your family and friends in the New Year.
- Susi Chinnery-Brown, JWNZ President
07 889 3545, 021 751 115 susi@twentyfive7.co.nz
team the best of luck. More information can be found on the Cousins’ website at https://www.cousinsuk.com/page/ news
– Nick Parker, nick@pilbrowswatchmaker.co.nz, Ph 03 351 1320.
Master and Apprentice. Another great year for apprenticeships and as an industry we can say to the incoming government, we told you so!
The apprenticeship system has proved to be remarkably resilient over the years, despite what has been thrown at it to try to somehow change it. It suits both employer and apprentice albeit for different reasons and really is an integral part New Zealand society.
Many of the reforms to it were introduced by the new National Government in 1990, who then went on to form a coalition with New Zealand First in 1996 and this is now starting to sound very familiar.
Industry training was administered by Education Training and Support Agency (ETSA) who were very good to us. For most, but not us, apprentices became trainees with apprenticeship contracts replaced by trainees with training agreements. ITO’s were set up and quickly saw the funding advantage of getting anyone doing anything in our industry to be registered as Trainees. Nationally by 2002, 70% of Trainees were registered in programmes that were completely unrelated to any past tradition apprenticeship training. The unemployment rate for 15-to19year-olds leapt to triple the total unemployment rate and was reflected with the figure I found staggering, that by then, over 50% of all the trainees were over 30- years-old. By default, an apprenticeship was no longer the route of a school leaver.
Perhaps the most significant change, however, was the loss for most of the term apprenticeship. This caused the perception in the minds of many that the old structure had been dismantled
Sponsors
and there was no such thing as an apprenticeship. It didn’t help that dodgy funding was up for grabs and this caused many of the schools to undertake fierce marketing of trade courses that were not their traditional courses, to entice both student and ITO funding.
Back to our trades of Manufacturing Jewellery and Watch and Clockmaking, we had a savior in the form of Doug Wilson, head of ETSA. Doug, an exengineer by trade, gained through a traditional apprenticeship, was astute enough to see our trades were about to be gobbled up by the schools and threw us a lifeline. He gave us the option of, as an Industry, maintaining the delivery of training through the traditional Apprenticeship Act ourselves. He organised funding to send representatives of our industry nationwide to canvas and get back to him with our answer which we did with a resounding yes. To do so we, as an industry, had to convince him we could yearly raise enough funds to continue the delivery of training and I was given the task of rewriting the Prescription and then along with Steve Crout, updating through the TRoQ review in 2016, for both Manufacturing Jewellery and Watch and Clockmaking.
I’ve been humbled by those that have stepped up to help from employers, that continued to have a commitment to take on young apprentices, to firms that stood up to be counted as apprentice supporters. There have been disappointments, but also luck such as in an Act of Parliament to define roles of the master and apprentice in Schedule 1 Indenture of apprenticeship made in pursuance of the Defence Act.
This wording is something we have been fortunate to be able to stick with and was a subject of the Agenda at the JIRBNZ AGM, of which an outcome will be further broadcast.
Then to the apprentices, who over the last 30 years have diligently served out their time. One such apprentice is Erik Barker. Erik left his hometown to be apprenticed to the traditional jewellery house of J. Williams & Co, indentured to Philip Sell. Erik seized his opportunity and went on to be the 2022 JIRBNZ Apprentice of The Year and then having fully satisfied all the requirements to be certified is now presented as, Erik Robin Barker - Qualified, Trade Certified Manufacturing Jeweller #408.
Well done Erik.
– Grant Harrison
Industry appointed Commissioner of Apprentices
Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand
M: 027 693 0001, E: info@jirbnz.org.nz
W: www.jirbnz.org.nz
Jewellery Time magazine - The focal point of JWNZ member and industry communication.
JWNZ Inc. Trade Fair - An annual event held on behalf of our members, for our members and industry.
Internet - www.jwnz.co.nz - The official JWNZ website with a free listing for financial members.
Press Releases - Jewellery and watch specific editorial promotion of product and JWNZ members.
Consumer Information - Online brochures, water resistancy guide and refund policy.
BUSINESS SERVICES:
ANZ Bank - Business and Personal banking.
ANZ Merchant Business Solutions - Merchant facilities for EFTPOS, Credit & Debit Card sales.
Crombie Lockwood Insurance Brokers - Business, Personal and Travel insurances.
CourierPost - Special Trackpak rates, $2000 insurance cover on each parcel sent.
EFTPOS NZ Ltd - EFTPOS Terminals and Payment Solutions.
Gilrose Finance - Consumer Finance for Hire Purchase sales.
Grow Online Ltd - Creating Results Driven Websites, SEO (Search Engine Optimisation), SEM (Search Engine Marketing), Ecommerce Websites, B2B, Custom Solutions. Office Products Depot - Stationery, Office furniture, Computer accessories and consumerables.
Vodafone - Telecommunication services - Fixed line & Broadband
Vodafone - DigitalMobile - Vodafone Product Suppliers
INDUSTRY REPRESENTATION:
Jewellery Industry Registration Board of New Zealand
- Representation on the Jewellery & Watch Industry organisation responsible for Apprenticeship Training.
TRADE & COMMERCE:
Government Liaison (When required) - Ministry of Consumer Affairs, Commerce Commission, New Zealand Customs, Disputes Tribunal, New Zealand Trade & Enterprise, Immigration New Zealand, Statistics New Zealand, Ministry of Economic Development.
The JWNZ Annual General Meeting will be held on Saturday 7th September. The meeting room and time to advised.
Our Spring Trade Fair 2024 will be held on Sunday 8th September.
We are grateful to our generous sponsors; Star Gems & Jewellery, Landau Jewellery (Christchurch), Pacific Time Industries, Morris and Watson and PEKA for their continuing support of the trade fair.
Both events will be held at the Royal New Zealand Yacht Squadron, 181 Westhaven Drive, Westhaven Marina, Auckland.
The success of our Spring Trade Fair 2023 was due to the support of our sponsors, exhibitors and visitors. 2023 saw the addition of another exhibitor room and visitor numbers were greater than in 2022. The event will continue at the same venue in 2024. Again, thank to our 2023 Trade Fair sponsors; Star Gems & Jewellery, Landau Jewellery (Christchurch), Pacific Time Industries, Morris and Watson and PEKA.
The Goldsmiths Guild AGM is to be held at 6.00pm on Tuesday 21st November 2023 at 78 Victoria Street Wellington. All members have been notified by email, but this is to remind members they are all welcome and can attend via Zoom if unable to be in Wellington. If you would like to attend by Zoom it would be helpful to know ahead of time and I invite you to email me on my dedicated Goldsmiths Guild email: nzgoldsmithsguild@gmail.com
The Guild is very much about what Goldsmiths, collectively, want, so input from members is paramount. If you have an opinion (be it strong or mild) on something you feel would benefit all members I would be keen to hear from you.
It was good to catch up with many of you at the trade fair in Auckland.
The JWNZ is required to re-register with the Registrar of Incorporated Societies, as all current incorporated societies are required to do by government and as such we are currently working on a new set of rules that, all going to plan, will be presented at the 2024 AGM. We are endeavoring to make the new rules reader friendly, however, there are specific government/legislative requirements that are required to be included.
This year business has been challenging for many of our members. Robberies, ram-raids and an election year which always has an impact on consumer spending. We wish you all the best for trading over the December/January festive and holiday season and trust the new year brings all our members and industry participants greater prosperity.
Your ongoing support of the JWNZ through your financial membership is greatly appreciated. We are always looking to enhance membership
benefits, however, sometimes what shows promise to be beneficial does not eventuate. Sometimes benefits can be of use to all or most members and sometimes to very few, so it is hard at times to get the balance right.
JWNZ INC. NATIONAL OFFICE
Craig Anderson
JWNZ Inc. Executive Secretary
T 021 596 988
Int +64 21 596 988
E info@jwnz.co.nz
I managed to talk with numerous Guild members during the weekend. It’s a great venue and an important annual event on the trade calendar.
The year has been quiet and uneventful for the Guild, with most members trying to manage the effects of the ups and downs of the economy. It’s a common problem in election year with consumers uncertain about how major policy changes are likely to affect their disposable income. Now that the election is over there may be a little more certainty in the mood of the public.
We have the Christmas and holiday season looming, a time that usually benefits everyone in our industry. On that note I would like to add my best wishes to all for the festive season.
Brian Barrett.
- Brian Barrett, GGNZ Chairman Tel: 04 476 4764, 021 661 060, brian@bhbdesigns.co.nz
The Tsuyosa Collection features 40mm mechanical watches known for their stylish and alluring design. They effortlessly combine vibrant, colourful dials enclosed within sporty-shaped cases, accompanied by comfortable three-row bands that provide a snug and pleasant fit on the wrist.
These watches are further improved by a 50M water resistance, sapphire crystal, a magnifying lens and a transparent case back, offering a view of the captivating rotating weights and Citizen’s unique 40-hour power reserve mechanical movement.
Models NJ0150-81A, 81L, 81E, 81X, 81Z, NJ1551-88L, 88M, 88X, NJ0153-82X, NJ0154-80H, NJ0155-87E.
Contact: Citizen Watches New Zealand, (Northern Region), Mark Raddon, M +64 212427631, (Southern Region) Keith Mann, M +64272460492, https://www.citizenwatches.com.au/collections/tsuyosa
Beautiful blue topaz and marcasite pendant, earrings and ring from ESSE. Crisp icy blue, perfect finishing touch for that summer outfit. Also available in rhodolite garnet.
Contact: AM IMPORTS Pty Ltd, NZ Agent: Susi Chinnery-Brown, P. 021 751 115, susi@twentyfive7.co.nz
Sovereign Coin jewellery, available in all metals, with 22ct sovereign coin or mount only.
Contact: Worth & Douglas Ltd, P +64 9 303 4666, sales@worthdouglas.co.nz, www.worthdouglas.com
New Rochet bracelets, just in time for the perfect Christmas gift.
Check out the full range of colours and styles available at Pacific Time. Contact: Pacific Time Industries, P: 03 356 3587, sales@pacifictime.co.nz, www.pacifictime.co.nz
This matching men's necklace and bracelet features a striking combination of Bronzite beads complemented by an intricately ionplated black lattice pattern stainless steel centre piece, gracefully adorned with white freshwater pearls on either side, creating a harmonious blend of earthy and modern elements. SKU: IP271N & IP271B.
Contact: Ikecho Australia, Ph 61 2 9266 0636, cindy@ikecho.co.au, www.ikecho.com.au
Boccia Titanium Work Watch: Strong, lightweight and skin friendly for everyday wear.
Available now in black or navy dial with lumo. Featuring a titanium bracelet, protected crown and is 10 bar water resistant. RRP: $250.
3742-03: Boccia
Pure Titanium, solar chronograph. Sapphire crystal, date, 10 bar water resistant. Titanium bracelet. 40mm. RRP: $625.
3739-02: Boccia
Pure Titanium chronograph. Tachymetric lunette, date, 10 bar water resistant. Titanium bracelet. RRP: $438.
Contact: Pacific Time Industries, P: 03 356 3587, sales@pacifictime.co.nz, www.pacifictime.co.nz
Make headlines with this ladies’ GUESS watch! A rich green dial is complemented by the 42mm gold tone case and sleek black silicone strap. GW0571G3.
One of the most iconic watch shapes with a colourful twist. The emerald green coloured mother-of- pearl dial creates an ever-changing spectacle of light and colour, giving a luxury look to this Rosefield watch. OEGSG-O79.
This hand-made Rosefield design is crafted with a mix of enamel and gold. The vibrant emerald green enamel creates a harmonious contrast that captures the eye. An everyday essential that is easily mixed and matched.
JBEDG-J715.
The Timex Marlin Chronograph Tachymeter boasts the distinction of being the first chronograph in our Marlin line, as well as the first Marlin powered by a quartz movement. This beautifully detailed rendition features a tachymeter index along its outer minute track to measure speed and distance, a unique date window placement and a perforated natural brown leather strap. Though its build breaks new ground in our watchmaking heritage, this timepiece retains the classic Marlin features with a sturdy stainlesssteel case, domed acrylic crystal lens, vintage green dial and retro-style square markers at 3, 9, and 12 o'clock. TW2W10100.
Darbey returns this season embodying the iconic T detail of Ted Baker, adding a refined touch to your style. The rich green sunray dial perfectly matches with the elegant gold tone stainless steel case, connected with the feminine gold tone mesh bracelet through a T design element embodied with crystals. Now available in packaging made from 100% from sustainable sources. BKPDAF305.
This elevated Furla ladies’ timepiece features an unusual face in deep olive green, textured with a tiny repeat pattern of the Furla Arch logo and set with three bezelset, white crystal indices. The faceted, six-sided bezel adds an architectural edge to the round case, with vintage-style arrow hands. The substantial multilink bracelet features the Furla Arch logo inscribed on the centre element of golden links. WW00047003L4.
An 80's retro digital vibe coming straight from adidas Originals' rich archive and combined with modern flair. With a green resin strap, the Digital Two uni-sex watch is a fun accessory with serious timekeeping features including time and date display, alarm and chronograph functions. AOST23558.
A true GUESS icon, this gold tone bangle features crystals, studs and the GUESS 4G logo. Pair it with your favourite GUESS watch, or the matching hoops to elevate any look. JUBB03276JWYGL.
Contact: Designa Accessories, Ph 64 9 480 2211,
www.designaaccessories.com.au
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The crew at Jewellery Time would like to thank our loyal advertisers and contributors. Thirty years plus behind us now and with good support from our industry we look forward to 2024 and four bumper issues!
To all a very Merry Christmas, may the season be prosperous and the New Year a great one.
Deadlines for 2024:
2024 Autumn
Booking and Editorial:
February 15,
Ad Material:
February 22,
Magazine Posted:
February 29
2024 Winter
Booking and Editorial: May 2,
Ad Material: May 9,
Magazine Posted: May 16
2024 Spring Trade Fair Special
Booking and Editorial: August 2, Ad Material: August 9, Magazine Posted: August 16
Give us a call to discuss how we can help.
2024 Summer
Booking and Editorial: November 2,
Ad Material: November 9,
Magazine Posted: November 16
Any support the trade can give us is welcomed. If you have an advertisement, new products to promote, or an editorial feature suggestion, please get in touch. Debbie
inklink@xtra.co.nz chaucer@xtra.co.nz
Quasar Diamond is New Zealand’s foremost diamond authority. Each Quasar diamond is carefully selected by qualified diamond experts for complete peace of mind. Purchasing a Quasar Certified diamond is your ethical guarantee of both sustainability and exceptional quality.