Range: Volume 6

V OL U M E 6 By

ECUADOR / GREECE / SAINT LUCIA / SINGAPORE

ANDALUSIAN ADVENTURE Inside southern Spain’s rich equestrian culture

when you would go to the ends of the earth

It’s the ultimate bonding experience.

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Contact your Ensemble travel agent for more details.

Expedition

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What’s Inside

PHOTOS: MICHAEL GEORGE; ANDREW CEBULKA/STOCKSY (GOING PLACES).

Going Places

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From our Editorial Director

8

Contributors

In Brief

11 What’s new and notable in the world of travel.

Interview

14 We catch up with rock climber Shelma Jun.

Will Travel For

17 Steamed-leaf snacks, from Mexico to India.

Packing List

18 Travel gear to bring on your next adventure.

On the Cover The night before the Pilgrimage of El Rocío arrives in town, a couple of revelers on horseback are in the spirit, dressed in traditional attire. “I love the way that, so often, the women ride pillion, just perched on the rear of the horse,” says photographer Emma Hardy.

Photo by Emma Hardy

Range x Explora Journeys

20 A first-time cruiser sets sail on EXPLORA I and experiences opulence like never before.

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Where Next

The Adventurers of Ecuador

26 Experience one of the world’s most biodiverse countries with the local guides who know it best.

Once Upon a Time in Andalusia

34 Join photographer Emma Hardy on an equestrian adventure to El Rocío for two of Andalusia’s most spirited cultural festivals.

Plan Your Next Family Adventure 42

From an island retreat to an action-packed city getaway, here’s some inspiration for your next family trip.

The Freedom of Freediving

50 Writer Laura Studarus introduces us to three international freedivers — and plunges beneath the surface herself.

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A Perfect Day In

62 Fall in love with Quebec City’s old-world charm and lively culinary scene.

Ask a Local

66 Mongolian expert Uyanga Galbadrakh shares the nomadic experiences that await in the country’s untouched wilderness.

Port of Call

68 Everything you need to plan your pre- or post-cruise stay in Athens.

Outtake

72 One more moment in travel.

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PHOTOS: ALEX VOYER (FEATURES); CHRIS MAI/UNSPLASH (WHERE NEXT).

Features

DISCOVER SMALL SHIP CRUISING

Portovenere, Italy

Book now to receive an Ensemble exclusive offer an additional $200 onboard credit* on select sailings!

TO BOOK, CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR TODAY!

*For Full Ensemble Amenity exclusive offer terms and conditions, please contact your Ensemble Travel Advisor.*Early Booking Bonus (Offer): For select sailings departing April 2, 2025 – November 10, 2025, Offer applies to new bookings created before August 21, 2024 (“Offer Period”). Offer provides 20% off cruise fares of all stateroom categories. Offer also provides a complimentary Experience More Essentials Package (inclusive of $300 USD Shore Excursion Onboard Credit [OBC], Unlimited WiFi for one device, and a Premium Beverage Package for Two) per stateroom, for guests booked in Veranda and Suite stateroom categories. The Shore Excursion OBC portion of the Experience More Essentials Package will be applied to the booking as an individual component, with the option to spend pre-cruise. The balance of any pre-cruise spend of Shore Excursion OBC, will be reconciled once onboard. Experience More Essentials Packages have no cash value, are not redeemable for cash, and are not transferable. Limit one Offer per stateroom. All other charges, including, but not limited to, cruise taxes, fees, and port expenses, are additional and apply to all guests. Offer is combinable with Back to Back Benefits, onboard booking savings and Azamara Circle Quarterly Savings, National Account Hosted and Amenity Programs, and one other OBC or value add. Unless stated otherwise, offer is not combinable with any other offer or promotion, including, but not limited to, Last Minute Voyages, Closed User Rates, Employee Rates, Interline Rates, Travel Agent Rates, and Net Rates. Offer is not applicable to 3rd and 4th guests in a stateroom. Offer is not applicable to incentive or contracted groups. After the Offer Period, the offer will be removed from the booking if the guest cancels and reinstates the booking, applies a fare change, or changes the ship or sail date of the booking, even if sailing date is within the sailing period highlighted above; certain other changes to the booking may also result in removal of the offer. Offer is subject to availability and change without notice and may be withdrawn at any time. Single occupancy guests paying 200% cruise fare are eligible for the full amount of the offer; single occupancy guests paying less than 200% cruise fare are eligible for a prorated amount of the offer. This offer is applicable to U.S., Canada, and select global markets only. Refer to Azamara.com/bookearly and the Cruise Ticket Contract for additional terms and conditions. ©2024 Azamara. Ships registered in Malta.

EDITORIAL Editorial Director

Sydney Loney Executive Editor

Dominique Lamberton

COPY EDITORS Christopher Korchin, Robert Ronald

Contributing Editor

Andrew Elkin Assistant Editor

Aimi Mayne ART Design Director

Stefanie Sosiak Photo Editor

Lori Morgan CONTRIBUTORS Michael George, Emma Hardy, Christian Heurtelou, Jessica Huras, Yolanda Escobar Jiménez, Robert Liwanag, Caitlin Walsh Miller, Claire Sibonney, Laura Studarus

Publisher

Jeff Willner PROOFREADER Diane Carlson

Senior Editor

Brett Walther

2 QUEEN STREET EAST 2 0 TH F L O O R TORONTO, ON M5C 2G7

PRODUCTION Director of Marketing & Delivery

Valerie Lenoir Printer

Mi5

President

Michael Johnson SVP, Marketing

Shahla Lalani SVP, Operations

Kristina Boyce SVP, Partner Relations

Beth Butzlaff

SALES Senior Director, Partner Relations (Cruise)

VP, Destination & Specialty

Rachel Grogan

Mark Stubbert

Ian Elliott VP, Member Relations

Director, Partnership Marketing (Land)

Franca Iuele Director, Partnership Marketing (Hotel)

Danielle Clement

RESEARCHERS Amanda Ghazale Aziz, Corinna Reeves

What is Ensemble?

Ensemble is a leading travel organization comprised of top-tier travel agencies throughout the U.S. and Canada. As a valued client of one of our member agencies, you gain access to exclusive perks, amenities and experiences as well as expert advice and exceptional customer service from the foremost authorities in the travel industry. ensembletravel.com

Range (Volume 6). All rights reserved, Ensemble Travel Ltd.

Sustainable Practices Range is printed and distributed with Mi5 Print and Digital, a sustainable business partner and Earth-friendly printing company. Range is printed on Inspira text and cover and is a 100-percent sustainable sourced product. All fiber is sourced under a zero-deforestation commitment, produced using materials from rapidly renewable tree plantations. Inspira is fully PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification, one of the world’s largest forest certification systems) chain of custody-certified.

No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise duplicated without the permission of the publisher. Range is published on behalf of Ensemble Travel Ltd. member agencies.

TICO: #50022140 | CST: 2141530-70 Registration numbers vary by agency.

Advertising and marketing inquiries can be sent to marketing@ensembletravel.com.

For editorial inquiries, please email editor@ensembletravel.ca.

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Bangkok, Thailand

The sense of warmth and camaraderie from dedicated staff.

THE FINEST CUISINE AT SEA®

The thrill of becoming awestruck as you arrive at a fabled destination for the first time.

CUR ATED TR AVEL EXPERIENCES

The joy of celebrating life, with indulgent cuisine.

SMALL SHIP LUXURY

It’s the personal experiences that will last a lifetime.

CONTAC T YOUR ENSEMBLE TR AVEL ADVISOR TO BOOK TODAY.

Thrill Island — Icon of the Seas SM

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Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details or to book.

BEST CRUISE LINE AND IN THE CARIBBEAN OVERALL 21 YEARS RUNNING Travel Weekly Readers’ Choice Awards

*Images and messaging may include artistic renderings. All ship features, experiences are subject to change without notice. ©2024 Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd. Ships’ registry: The Bahamas. 24012866 • 02/05/2024

Categor y 6 Waterpark

Laser Tag Battle

AquaTheater Show

PHOTO: KATHERINE HOLLAND.

Choose Your Own Adventure Last fall, I flew for the first time. Not in an airplane — I actually flew flew. Or at least, it was as close to the experience of flying as I’ll ever get, even though I was almost too afraid to try it.

I was in Ecuador, surrounded by mountains, and signing up to paraglide off one of them seemed fitting — until the bus that was to take me to the top began winding its way up. And up. And… up.

By the time we arrived, my hands were shaking. When the pilots began herding our small group into harnesses, I turned around, fully intending to sneak back on the bus — but it was too late, I’d been spotted. Moments later, I found myself strapped to an enormous yellow sail, my pilot issuing rapid instructions into my right ear from behind. I had no choice but to follow them.

In tandem, we took three steps forward, three steps back, then ran, as fast as we could, leaping off the side of the mountain. We were airborne, sweeping over a valley ringed by volcanoes and dotted with tiny cows. The local family that had settled on blankets to watch us take flight, their kids doing cartwheels across the mountaintop, grew smaller and smaller. Although I simply dangled helplessly in front of my pilot as he steered us across the sky, I felt I had accomplished something huge. Something I’d never forget.

Something I thought I could never do. Heart still pounding after 20 minutes back on the ground, I knew I’d had a full-on adventure.

I love a good adventure. And I think that travel, no matter where it takes you (or whether your feet leave the ground), is an adventure in itself. That recent trip to Ecuador now ranks among my favorites.

Naturally, the team at Range is also an intrepid bunch, and I recently canvassed them to discover their top travel adventures.

Our design director, Stefanie Sosiak, recalls traveling the length of Vietnam, from Ha Long Bay to Phu Quoc, before there were smartphones (“We used MapQuest!”). Executive editor Dominique Lamberton trekked Scotland’s 78-mile Great Glen Way with her parents, staying at the schoolhouse where her great-grandmother once taught. “The spectacular landscapes, ancestral connection and time with my parents was unforgettable,” she says. For our photo editor, Lori Morgan, the best adventure is also a family adventure — she bravely road-tripped from Montreal to Manhattan with her then four- and seven-year-old children, hitting the American Museum of Natural History, the Bronx Zoo and a Broadway show. “The subway rides were the highlight, proving you can still thrill kids on the cheap!” Meanwhile, senior editor Brett Walther’s most memorable travel adventure was a stay at a desert camp in the Sahara. “I caught the sun setting over the dunes of Erg Chigaga — between the total silence and the otherworldly landscape, it was one of those powerful moments that puts everything into perspective.”

From herding horses in a famous Spanish festival to freediving in the South Pacific to exploring the Amazon rainforest at night, we hope you enjoy all the adventures packed into this issue — and that they inspire you to choose your own. 

Sydney Loney Editorial Director

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What’s your favorite travel adventure?

Please share it with me at editor@ensembletravel.ca.

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Yolanda Escobar Jiménez

Emma Hardy P H OTO G R A P H E R

P H OTO G R A P H E R

Hometown Guadalajara, Mexico Home base Quito My favorite travel memories are from all the trips I took with my parents and siblings when we were kids. We would travel around Mexico by car, seeing incredible places and small towns. We once stayed at a hotel in Palenque, in the middle of the jungle — it was like being in another world.

When I’m not shooting for Range, I photograph for NGOs that are committed to social issues, such as gender equality. Recently, I was invited to serve on the jury for several international photography competitions, including the Nikon Photo Contest.

The Adventurers of Ecuador — page 26

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Laura Studarus WRITER

Hometown and home base Los Angeles I travel to remind myself how little I know — and to learn more.

My best adventures always start with the phrase, “Let’s find out...”

When I’m not writing for Range, I’m contributing to outlets like Shondaland.com, the Daily Beast and Lonely Planet, snapping concert photos, jumping into large bodies of water or cuddling my cat Kyoto, who I swear spent one of her nine lives as a comedian.

The Freedom of Freediving — page 50

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Hometown and home base London The place I can return to again and again is Kefalonia, Greece, for its sparse beauty, extraordinarily clear sea and the opportunity for great relaxation and recharging.

When I’m not collaborating with Range, I’m working on a photo book about my mother, which will be a sequel to my 2022 book, Permissions. A lot of my time outside of photography is devoted to another great love — cooking — or walking somewhere wild and beautiful.

Once Upon a Time in Andalusia — page 34 “With thanks to Penelope Chilvers for the inspiration for, and instigation of, these photos in El Rocío and beyond.”

PHOTOS: ALVARO AVILA SIMPSON (YOLANDA ESCOBAR JIMÉNEZ); HILARY SAUNDERS (LAURA STUDARUS); EMMA HARDY (EMMA HARDY).

Contributors

A Destination. An Adventure.

An Experience of a Lifetime.

Embark on extraordinary journeys with Celebrity Cruises®, where your wanderlust and adventure meet an unparalleled vacation experience. Whether you're a seasoned globe-trotter or new to exploring the world, our vacations cater to uncovering unique experiences. As passionate adventurers ourselves, we understand the thrill of discovering new horizons and ticking off those bucket-list destinations.

At Celebrity Cruises, we offer a collection of once-in-a-lifetime experiences that blend adventure and awe.

Immerse yourself in the beauty of the Cherry Blossom Festival in Japan, embrace the enchantment of winter in Malaysia or Thailand, sail through the majestic Norwegian Fjords and the Arctic Circle, witness the mesmerizing Northern Lights in Iceland, and uncover the diverse wonders of Australia, New Zealand, South America, and Antarctica.

When you plan your Celebrity cruise with your Ensemble travel advisor you can expect personalized service, experienced and knowledgeable travel experts and when booking a veranda or above enjoy an exclusive $100 shore excursion credit per stateroom.

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.

Offer applies to 4-night and longer itineraries that depart Jan. 1st, 2024 through Open Deployment. Bookings must be made between Jan. 1st, 2024 and Dec. 31, 2024. Offer excludes Galapagos sailings. $100 per stateroom Shore Excursion credit will be applied in the form of an onboard credit (OBC). Offer is $100 Onboard credit “OBC” per stateroom for standard Verandas, Infinite Veranda, Concierge, AquaClass and Suites. Offers are applicable to new individual bookings and to staterooms in non-contracted group bookings, which must be named and deposited. Guests’ stateroom folios will be credited with an OBC. OBC has no cash value, is applicable to cruise only, non-transferable, not redeemable for cash, and will expire if not used by 10:00 PM on the final night of the cruise. Offer excludes interior and oceanview staterooms. Offer is not combinable with Exciting Deals, Galapagos sailings or No Perk rates. Offer is combinable with prevailing group rates and onboard bookings. Single occupancy bookings are eligible for the Offer. Refer to Cruise Ticket Contract for additional terms and conditions. Celebrity reserves the right to cancel the Offer at any time, correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions, and change or update fares, fees and surcharges at any time without prior notice.©2024 Celebrity Cruises Inc. Ships’ registry: Malta and Ecuador.

IGNITE YOUR CURIOSITY WITH AN

Arctic Adventure

Say yes to thrilling 29+day escapades while traversing

Greenland’s frozen tundra, glide through Norway’s captivating fjords, and bask in the tropical paradise of Raiatea, Papeete and more — all roundtrip from the U.S. Contact Your Travel Advisor to Book Today

TEXT: AIMI MAYNE. PHOTO: COURTESY OF BELMOND (EASTERN & ORIENTAL EXPRESS).

GOING PLACES

THE INSIDE TRACK

Ride the World’s Luxury Rails If you’ve dreamed of seeing the world by train, Railbookers’ four-continent, 10-country itinerary is your ticket. The Around the World by Luxury Train tour is a first-of-its-kind adventure aboard the world’s most lavish passenger trains. Marvel at the Canadian Rockies from the Rocky Mountaineer, zip between Eastern European capitals on the Golden Eagle Danube Express, spot South African wildlife from a Rovos Rail car, sip chai as the Maharajas’ Express winds through India’s majestic cities and take in lush Malaysian landscapes on the Eastern & Oriental Express — ­ these are just some of the experiences that await on the epic 80-day journey.

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IN BRIEF

ON TREND

Dive into These Big-city Rivers Paris’s Seine River was once the perfect place to cool off, but pollution has kept it closed to swimmers since 1923. It’s the same in New York’s Hudson and East rivers, where the public bathing pavilions that once lined their banks also shuttered in the 1920s. Now, a century later, these big-city rivers are bringing bathers back. Ahead of the Paris 2024 Olympic Games, a €1.4-billon cleanup effort is underway to restore the Seine for swimming so that competitions can take place in it — just as they did for the Olympic Games of 1900. And in New York, + POOL, an organization reclaiming the city’s waterways, is creating the first swimming pool sourced from an urban river in the U.S., a 9,000-square-foot floating facility that’s expected to open in 2025.

FOOD & DRINK

Fine Dining with a Side of Sustainability Three restaurants in the U.K. — St. Barts in London, Interlude in Lower Beeding, England, and the Whitebrook in Monmouthshire, Wales — recently joined an exclusive club: They now hold Michelin Green Stars in addition to Michelin Stars. Awarded to establishments championing eco-friendly practices while delivering just as successfully on the gastronomic front, the Michelin Green Star launched in 2020 and has since been awarded to 510 restaurants across the globe, including 299 with existing Michelin Stars. Taste chef Chris Harrod’s signature suckling pig garnished with homegrown nasturtiums at the Whitebrook, or try the show-stopping Rabbit Eats Carrot dish, starring freshly foraged green herbs and local rabbit, at Interlude.

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TEXT: DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON (ON TREND); AIMI MAYNE (FOOD & DRINK). PHOTOS: FRIENDS OF + POOL (ON TREND); COURTESY OF THE WHITEBROOK (FOOD & DRINK).

GOING PLACES

GOING PLACES

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IN BRIEF

CRUISE NEWS

Alaska’s Next Top Dock

TRAVEL SIZE

Skincare for All Your Adventures

E D I TO

TEXT: BRETT WALTHER (CRUISE NEWS); DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON (TRAVEL SIZE); AIMI MAYNE (HOTEL HOPPING). PHOTOS: SUSAN VINEYARD/ADOBE STOCK (CRUISE NEWS); COURTESY OF ATMOSPHERA (TRAVEL SIZE); COURTESY OF ONE&ONLY ONE ZA’ABEEL (HOTEL HOPPING).

Last year, Alaska welcomed a record-breaking 1.65 million cruise passengers. That, coupled with the ever-increasing size of the ships sailing the region, caused the company managing the port of Seward, just south of Anchorage, to come to one conclusion: We’re gonna need a bigger dock. A 748-foot-long floating pier that accommodates two ships simultaneously is part of the plan to redevelop the outdated Seward Port facilities, which will also include an entirely new cruise terminal set to open its doors in spring 2026.

R-

TESTED

Leaving on an Arctic cruise or a trek in a coastal rainforest?

There’s a skincare product for that. Female-founded Atmosphera creates climate-responsive formulas to protect your skin from all the elements. The Northern line, designed for dry, frigid mountain conditions, features rich textures and skin-quenching ingredients like Bulgarian rose, while the Coastal products, including a moisturizer that balances oiliness and dryness, are ideal for more humid environments. atmospherabeauty.com

HOTEL HOPPING

Check into a New Hotel One&Only One Za’abeel, Dubai Stretching vertically, this urban resort is filled with desert-inspired rooms by acclaimed hotel designer Jean-Michel Gathy. As elegant as they are, you’ll want to hang at the Link: The sky bridge suspended between the hotel’s dual towers boasts the UAE’s longest infinity pool.

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Six Senses Kyoto This 81-room sanctuary nestled in Kyoto’s Higashiyama district features calming earth-toned interiors and a central garden courtyard. Spend the day exploring the nearby temples and shrines before indulging in a spa treatment that begins with a traditional tea ceremony.

Rosewood Schloss Fuschl, Austria Step into a fairy-tale retreat at this newly restored 15th-century castle overlooking turquoise Lake Fuschl.

Once a resort beloved

by Austrian royalty, it has been reimagined to include 98 rooms, suites and lakefront chalets with private saunas, plus a spa, outdoor pool and trails.

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GOING PLACES

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INTERVIEW

Shelma Jun The New York- and Californiabased rock climber, community builder and filmmaker shares what climbing has taught her, where it’s taken her and what’s coming next.

S

helma Jun spent her childhood exploring California’s national parks. Her family emigrated from Korea when Jun was five and, while they didn’t have much money, they had a tent (“We brought it from Korea, and it was shaped like a cinnamon roll.”) and a love of camping. But even though she was often in the outdoors, Jun didn’t feel part of it. “I felt very much like an observer,” she says.

That changed when, years later, Jun started rock climbing in New York’s Shawangunk Mountains (a.k.a. the Gunks). “The first time I was on the side of a wall, 200 feet up, I felt like, wow, I’m a part of the landscape.” In 2014, Jun started Flash Foxy, a community for women and genderqueer climbers; then, in 2016, she launched the annual Flash Foxy Climbing Festival. Now, Jun is passing Flash Foxy on to a new generation: “I’m proud to have created a space where people feel like climbing can be done on their own terms.”

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Range What has climbing taught you?

Shelma Jun It has taught me a lot about my body, how I move in it, how I feel in it. What I really love about climbing is that everybody has their own conversation with the rock — each person is going to climb it differently.

And the climbing community has taught me a lot about how we welcome people, how we let go of perceptions, how we let go of identity and how we create new identity.

R How does climbing help you connect with new destinations?

SJ It changes the way I travel because not only am I interacting with the landscape, but I’m making connections with locals. I’ve spent some time in Paris over the last decade, and it can be a hard place to meet people. When I first started climbing, I went and found a climbing gym — and by the end of that session, I had three phone numbers and weekend plans.

R Where are your favorite climbing areas?

SJ The Gunks in New York, and California’s Eastern Sierra. And next is Korea, which I visited in 2019 on a trip for Arc’teryx. As a Korean, my identity as a climber felt bifurcated, because I’d always associated climbing with American climbing culture. Climbing with Korean climbers was a real investigation into how to start bringing my whole self into spaces that are important to me.

R You recently finished directing your first feature-length film, On the Land. Is more filmmaking in your future?

SJ I want to give myself the space to be playful and try new things. I’m excited to share my film with as many people as possible — it’s a story about skill and culture sharing — and to climb more. Last year was probably the least I’ve climbed since I started, so I’m going to take time to reconnect with it. 

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PHOTO: COURTESY OF ARC’TERYX.

By Dominique Lamberton

RECEIVE A

Complimentary Land Package Join us, stay awhile.

For a limited time, when you reserve select 2024 and 2025 Europe river cruises, you will receive a complimentary 2-, 3- or 4-night land package! Explore an incredible city where your river cruise begins or ends. Alternatively, venture into a fascinating new destination, such as Lake Como, Italy or Spain’s Basque Country.

Reserve your river cruise with a complimentary land package before June 30, 2024!

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.

Countless adventures await on Cunard

®

Embarking on a Cunard® voyage is an invitation to indulge in a world of exciting experiences. Whether you prefer to spend your days soaking up the sun and sea breeze or exploring fascinating destinations across the world, there’s something for everyone. From luxurious onboard amenities to the thrill of exploring new cultures, a journey on Cunard promises an unforgettable adventure.

Queen Mary 2 in Geiranger, Norway

South Pacific and Tasmania 18 nights  Roundtrip Sydney December 23, 2024  Q501A Balcony Fares from $4,399*

The Norwegian Fjords 7 nights  Roundtrip London April 6, 2025  M507 Balcony Fares from $1,499* These voyages include an Ensemble exclusive shore experience, a welcome aboard cocktail party, and the knowledge of an experienced Ensemble Host.

Japan Circumnavigation 10 nights  Roundtrip Yokohama May 14, 2025  Q515 Balcony Fares from $1,919*

*Fares are based on category Balcony CB on Queen Elizabeth, Balcony DF on Queen Mary 2 on a space-available basis at time of booking. Taxes, Fees, and Port Expenses ranging from $120 to $300 per person are additional and subject to change. Fares for other dates may vary. Fares are per person, non-air, cruise-only, based on double occupancy, and apply to the first two guests in a stateroom. These fares do not apply to singles or third/fourth-berth guests. This offer is capacity controlled and may not be combinable with any other public, group, or past guest discount, including onboard credits. Offer is not transferable and is available to residents of the 50 United States, Canada, Puerto Rico, Mexico, and the District of Columbia who are 21 years of age or older and receive this offer. Fares quoted in U.S. dollars. Please refer to your Travel Advisor for terms, conditions, and definitions that apply to all bookings. Offer may combine with other offers such as group Onboard Credit, limited-time offers, and Military benefits. © 2024 Carnival plc. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda. The Cunard logo and logotype, Queen Mary 2, and Queen Elizabeth are registered trademarks of Carnival plc, an English company trading as Cunard. All rights reserved in the United States and other countries.

Please contact your Ensemble Travel Advisor for complete details.

GOING PLACES

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WILL TRAVEL FOR

Steamed Leaves Leaves and husks lock in steam and amp up flavor in snacks around the world.

We peel back the layers of three wrapped dishes worth traveling to try.

B y J e s s i c a H u ra s

VIETNAM

PHOTOS: ANDREW CEBULKA/STOCKSY (TAMALES); NGUYEN/ADOBE STOCK (BÁNH GIÒ); INGALLS PHOTOGRAPHY (PATRA NI MACHHI).

Bánh giò These pyramid-shaped rice dumplings originated in northern Vietnam but are now sold by street-food vendors across the country as a grab-and-go nibble. Snackers unwrap the layers of banana leaf to reveal a bundle of chewy rice-flour dough filled with earthy pork and wood ear mushroom.

Where to try it: Look for street vendors around high-traffic areas like schools and office buildings or at local markets, such as Nghia Tan and Nguyen Cong Tru in Hanoi.

INDIA

Patra ni machhi MEXICO

Tamales This wrapped and steamed corn-dough mixture comes in hundreds of variations that reflect the diversity of Mexico’s landscapes and subcultures. Tamales tend to feature corn husks or banana leaves, stuffed with seafood near the coast or flavored with regional specialties, like black mole sauce made with chilies and chocolate. Typically prepared in batches, they’re both a part of daily meals and a centerpiece for special feasts. Where to try it: Now in its third generation of family ownership, Tamales Doña Emi in Mexico City has earned cult status for its unconventional yet delicious fillings, including fig with cream cheese and nuts.

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A staple at Parsi weddings, patra ni machhi is a celebratory fish dish typically prepared using a pomfret (Indian butterfish) fillet, which gets coated in green chutney before being folded into banana leaves. The package is steamed to infuse the fish with the leaves’ subtly sweet, floral flavor. Where to try it: Jimmy Boy, a casual family restaurant in Mumbai that specializes in Parsi fare, makes a classic, homestyle patra ni machhi.

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GOING PLACES

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PACKING LIST

Get into Gear

Packable Jacket

Folding Trekking Poles

Solar-powered Watch

This lightweight layer with a selfstowing pocket packs a punch: The lined graphene membrane on top protects from rain and wind, while the bottom half is made of breathable fleece to keep you warm.

NS60 Layer, US$179, tropicfeel.com

Make an intense expedition easier with these featherweight poles featuring ergonomic cork grips. Measuring less than 16 inches when folded, they’re a cinch to stow in your day pack and toss in your luggage.

Black Series FX Carbon, US$270 lekiusa.com

From activity tracking to detailed maps for navigating terrain, this smart watch, which charges when exposed to sunlight, is loaded with features for outdoor adventurers of all levels.

Suunto Vertical Titanium Solar US$839, suunto.com

Small-but-mighty Power Bank When there are no outlets about, charge your phone (or your smart watch or your e-reader or your earbuds) fast with this sleek portable battery that weighs just 5.8 ounces.

Charge 20 PD, US$40 bioliteenergy.com

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Pocket Monocular

Durable Daypack

Don’t head into the wild without this handy monocular that provides crisp views and powerful zoom magnification — thanks to high-quality BaK-4 prism glass — all in a pack- and pocket-friendly size.

Wren Compact Scope US$25, bespokepost.com

With its timeless design and practical details, including a roomy main compartment, laptop sleeve and expandable side pockets, this recycled-nylon pack will take you from busy city centers to backcountry trails.

Rover Pack Classic, US$99 topodesigns.com

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TEXT: DOMINIQUE LAMBERTON.

Whether you’re planning a multi-day trek in the mountains or simply heading into the woods for a walk, these versatile pieces will equip you for your next adventure.

GOING PLACES

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PACKING LIST

High-tech Sunglasses Designed to be worn on the world’s highest mountains, these vintage alpine-style frames have leather side shields and a removable centerpiece to guard against wind, glare and dust, plus mirrored Category 4 lenses for peak protection.

Heron Glacier, US$147, vallon.com

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RANGE × EXPLORA JOURNEYS

An Ocean

State of Mind 20

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All it took to make this first-time cruiser a convert was the comfort, tranquility and private oceanfront terraces on board an Explora Journeys sailing.

B y C a i t l i n W a l s h M i l l e r — P h o t o s by M i c h a e l G e o r g e

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OPENING SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT Savoring a last look at Cartagena, Colombia, from the infinity-style Astern Pool; all 461 suites on board EXPLORA I are oceanfront with floorto-ceiling windows.

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ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Sunset views of Cartagena from Sky Bar on 14; bartender Komanq prepares his signature Golden View cocktail; a glimpse of Willemstad, Curaçao, from Deck 10’s Atoll Pool.

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’ve been on board EXPLORA I for about 15 minutes when I fall in love. In fact, I’m struck down midsentence by — and this might be the welcome bottle of champagne talking — one of the most beautiful sights I’ve ever seen. It’s about 75 square feet, with brilliant surfaces sparkling in the midday Caribbean sun. It’s a terrace — I’m in love with a terrace. I step through my suite’s patio doors and feel the warmth of the smooth decking under my feet as I brush past a table and chairs to lean on the railing. Everything beyond is all shades of blue, from the deep, dark water directly below to the sparkling sea at the horizon to the cloudless sky above. I believe that, at this point, I let out a deep, deep sigh.

Eric Boakye Tuffuor, my suite’s butler, asks if everything is okay. I manage a “Yes,” explaining that this is my first cruise, and I can’t imagine a more perfect place than this terrace. Boakye Tuffuor laughs and tells me he gets it. It’s his first cruise, too. “Where do we go from here?” he asks with a smile.

Technically, we’re headed west, from Cartagena, Colombia, to Colón, Panama, then back east to Curaçao, Martinique and Barbados, but I get what he means.

Explora Journeys is a new luxury travel brand whose mission is to connect travelers with the ocean. And all that — me falling in love with a terrace, the fact that Boakye Tuffuor and I are both newbie cruisers — is by design. The goal is to attract people who’ve never cruised, or even considered it. Roughly 60 percent of the team come from a luxury-hospitality background and are on their first contract at sea. Many of the guests are in the same boat, so to speak.

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EXPLORA I is the brand’s first ship — a total of six are set to take to the seas by 2028 — and has been sailing for less than a year. She was built to be different from the keel up, something general manager Heike Berdos recognized the first time she saw EXPLORA I, still under construction. “She’s more like a superyacht,” says Berdos, a three-decade veteran of the cruise industry, as we chat in the soaring two-story lobby. “Or a boutique hotel.”

Even I can see it. Instead of a hulking white mass, EXPLORA I cuts a sharp figure in navy with gold trim.

Infinity pools and whirlpools abound. There are 461 suites, all oceanfront with walk-in closets, Frette linens, floor-to-ceiling windows — hello, terrace — and heated marble floors. There’s no buffet or central dining room.

Instead, guests choose among five relaxed, elegant restaurants, a mini gourmet food hall, and a bunch of intimate lounges and lively bars. There are no crowds, or cramped quarters, or frantic schedules. Just a feeling of calm and connectedness — an “ocean state of mind” the brand is trying to curate. Whatever it is, I start to feel it a little bit everywhere.

It’s there in the cooking class I take with chef Hugo, a.k.a. Hugues Le Bourlay, where we learn how to make tortellini by hand. I was expecting the flash-bang-sizzle,

ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Panama’s Gamboa Sloth Sanctuary makes for a memorable shore excursion; the Cathedral of Cartagena de Indias in Cartagena’s historic city center; al fresco dining featuring creations from Emporium Marketplace’s build-your-own-ceviche station.

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“Yes, chef!” of a kitchen environment. Instead, I get the lulling, meditative practice of rolling out delicate pasta dough, slowly, evenly, patiently, with zero hurry — just lots of semolina for structure, I find out — paired with a Langhe Nebbiolo red from Italy’s Piedmont region and the dazzling Caribbean Sea as a backdrop.

It’s there during my shoreside excursion, when the ship docks in Colón. I take a bus and a boat and an aerial tram into the Panama rainforest to see one of the most biodiverse regions in the world. Exploring the vast Lago Gatún, a man-made freshwater lake that powers the lock system of the famous canal, I spot caimans, toucans, basilisks and three of the seven types of monkeys that live in the area.

The tamarins and capuchins hang back in the trees, but a baby howler hooks its prehensile tail around a vine and swings onto our boat, curious, hopping back to his mother just as quickly. On the Gamboa Rainforest Reserve aerial tram, we slice through impossibly tall royal palms aboard a six-seater open-air gondola car shaped like a little ship.

“It’s like something out of Peter Pan,” says my seatmate, as we sail away through the sky.

And it’s there, of course, on my suite’s terrace, where I finish each day. At night, that pixie-dust feeling from the jungle gondola returns. The sky and the sea weave together as bits of white — waves, stars — break around us. Stretched out on the daybed, rocked by the ocean, warm wind flicking around my face, I feel unanchored and unmoored but cradled and safe. It’s overwhelming, the sensation of being adrift, in motion but not in control, the relentless churn and the power of the ship and sea beneath, and for once not at all concerned about where we go from here. 

ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT Marble staircases rise from EXPLORA I’s Lobby Bar, a central lounge lined with high-end boutiques; suite butler Eric Boakye Tuffuor.

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Four Ways to Slip Into an Ocean State of Mind Take an experience shower at the spa Whether you opt for the “cool breeze” or the “tropical rain,” you’ll be gently immersed in a soft mist that’s infused with a subtle scent, the sweetness of which lingers long after you dry off.

Build your own ceviche Swordfish, octopus, mango, plantain strips, dried corn and more — at Emporium Marketplace, you can create your own fresh ceviche snack using everything you like and nothing you don’t, doused in a tomato-lime sauce and sprinkled with sea salt.

Dip into an infinity plunge pool Deck 12’s plunge pools, practically overflowing into the ocean below, are long and deep enough for you to master the one-armed dog paddle with a glass of sparkling rosé in hand.

Sip a sunset drink with a view Set on the ship’s highest point, Sky Bar on 14 is an outdoor lounge with a panoramic ocean backdrop. Savor a salt-rimmed margarita as the sun sets on another spectacular day at sea.

Access Unlocked: Africa In Swahili, “safari” means “journey” and to you, it will mean that and so much more. Searching for the elusive Big Five game animals, overnighting in tented camps and remote lodges, and sharing meals with locals.

The best part? It’s all within reach when you book a guided tour.

SMALL GROUP EXPLORATIONS

African Safari: Kenya and Tanzania 15 days | 38 meals

In the shadow of Mt. Kilimanjaro, embark on 12 lively safaris and seek out the diverse wildlife that call Kenya and Tanzania home.

SMALL GROUP EXPLORATIONS

Wilderness of Southern Africa: Safari by Land & Water

15 days | 33 meals

Journey through Southern Africa from its wild plains and dry woodlands to rivers and lakes on a safari adventure by land and water.

SMALL GROUP EXPLORATIONS

The Plains of Africa 14 days | 33 meals

Enjoy Kenya’s scenic vistas and magnificent wildlife as you traverse the African plains, where unparalleled experiences greet you at every turn.

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details

The Adventurers of Ecuador B y S y d n e y L o n e y — P h o t o s by Yo l a n d a E s c o b a r J i m é n e z

Up mountains, down rivers, through jungles and into remote villages: Three Ecuadorians lead the way on an unforgettable journey across one of the most diverse countries in the world.

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omorrow, dress like onions,” María Sol Espinosa writes in a WhatsApp message the night we arrive in Quito. Beginning the next morning, she will lead us up into the Andean highlands, then back down into the Amazon jungle, then over to Baños, the “adventure capital,” then back up to Cotopaxi National Park. (By day three of our eight-day adventure in Ecuador, María Sol’s nightly missive shortens to a single word: “Onions.”)

María Sol is our guide from G Adventures, a small-group tour company committed to sustainability and supporting local communities. But she is more than a guide. Born in Quito, Ecuador’s actual capital, she is a passionate ambassador for her country. She’s a historian and a human encyclopedia with endless enthusiasm and empathy for all the people, plants and critters we encounter from Quito to Cotopaxi. (“Remember, this creature could be somebody’s mother,” she reminds us every time she rescues a bug in danger of being swatted or stepped on. And there are quite a few bugs in Ecuador.)

Like all the Ecuadorians we encounter on our journey, María Sol is a reminder that it is the people, not just the place, that make for the most profound travel adventures — and that the best way to experience a country is with those who live there.

MARÍA SOL AGUINAGA ESPINOSA, ON THE ROAD FROM QUITO On that first morning, dressed obediently like onions (the climate in Ecuador changes as swiftly as the scenery, so layers are a must), we listen as María Sol delivers a lively monologue from the front of our little bus. We discover that there are about 90 volcanoes in Ecuador (36 active), 14 Indigenous languages, four distinct regions (the highlands, the Amazon, the Galapagos and the coast), and that the country is known for its hummingbirds, of which there are more than 130 species (we spot several during a cloud-forest hike en route to the Amazon).

Even along the road, there is a lot to take in. The swaying of the bus as it navigates the narrow turns — there are no straight roads in Ecuador, María Sol says — threatens to lull us into a jet-lagged slumber, but it’s impossible with so much happening outside our windows. Avocado, agave and eucalyptus lend textured shades of green to the lush roadside foliage, waterfalls cascade down steep slopes around every bend, and snowcapped mountains poke through the mist in the distance.

Meanwhile, each town we pass through is decked out in signs bearing the name of the singular product it is known for: candy, roses, denim, fireworks. Our bus stops in Cayambe, where all the signs are emblazoned with “Bizcochos” in large letters.

Bizcochos are a buttery Ecuadorian take on biscotti that, if you’re lucky, come dipped in dulce de leche and wrapped in a single string of fresh cow’s-milk cheese. The result is richly sweet and salty. “We put cheese on everything, even ice cream,” María Sol says, licking her fingers.

Our next stop is a market that encompasses an entire square in the town of Otavalo — it’s impossible to leave without a colorfully woven bag, belt or poncho — and then lunch with an Indigenous Otavaleños family in a nearby village. While we sip soup made with vegetables from the adjacent plot and topped with kernels of roasted corn, María Sol explains that the “Sol” in her name means “sun,” and her parents gave it to

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Quito’s historic Basílica del Voto Nacional took 30 years to build and houses 24 small chapels, each dedicated to a province of Ecuador; María Sol outside the Carmen Bajo, a convent dating back to 1669; Quito was built on the ruins of an Inca city in the 16th century.

OPENING SPREAD Overlooking Cotopaxi National Park, home of the rare Andean spectacled bear.

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The Amazon rainforest is home to more than 3 million species of plants and animals.

her to differentiate her from all the other Marías in the predominantly Catholic country.

(One of our lunch hosts is also a María.) During our visit, the family gives us a tour of their garden, a weaving demonstration and a welcome introduction to the friendly hospitality the region is known for.

Moments that give travelers a glimpse of everyday life in Ecuador are among María Sol’s favorite as a guide. She initially studied physics and math before combining her two greatest passions — people and nature — into a degree in tourism and ecology, and she has guided guests in Ecuador and elsewhere for more than 20 years. “I know that every country is beautiful,” she says. “When you go somewhere and you see a museum or a church, it’s nice, but it’s not the same as when you go into a community and talk and laugh with the people and learn about their traditions. That is what makes a country come alive.” If she could pick anywhere in Ecuador to show off both its people and its nature, she says it would be the Amazon. “The jungle is my favorite place in the world.”

HOLGER RAMIRO RETETE CALVA, IN THE AMAZON RAINFOREST After a few days in the highlands — hot springs, horseback rides, an overnight stay in a historic hacienda where a local band played traditional music in a tack room turned bar — we peel off our layers and prepare to enter the jungle. In the motorized canoe taking us down the Arajuno River, María Sol sits cross-legged on the bow, pointing out toucans in the trees and blue morpho butterflies flitting over the water (they’re among the largest butterflies in the world, with an iridescent blue wingspan of up to eight inches).

As far as wildlife sightings go, this is only the beginning. The Amazon, one of the most biodiverse places on the planet, is home to more than 3 million species of plants and animals, with new species being discovered almost daily. The best way to spot many of them is at night. Wearing headlamps and tall rubber boots, we meet Holger Calva, our Kichwa guide, under the stars. He takes us up a path into the dense foliage that’s barely five feet from the boardwalk that leads to our jungle-lodge rooms, and we discover just how much activity is taking place around us while we sleep. Baby tarantulas, fruit bats, stick bugs, impossibly large crickets, grasshoppers, geckos, salamanders, beetles, a vine snake, all manner of spiders — most of them big — and red poison-dart frogs, deadly but beautiful, glinting like rubies under the light from our torches.

Although Holger was born in the jungle, he’s as excited as we are by each new sighting (his favorite finds are the frogs and salamanders we spy nestled under leaves for the night). Holger says he began guiding to help conserve the forest and protect the Kichwa culture. “I love sharing how wonderful the Amazon forest is, and how we live with the animals, birds, insects and plants,” he says. He explains how pretty much every plant in the jungle serves a special purpose, from the palm leaves used to make roofs that last longer than a decade to the lalu, which can relieve the pain of a bullet-ant encounter (the most painful bite in the jungle).

On the afternoon following our night walk, Holger takes us by canoe to visit his village on the banks of the river. We’re greeted by a group of women in blue embroidered dresses who welcome us around the raised fire in their open kitchen. About 135 people live in the village, where a typical day begins around 4 a.m. with the women making tea

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Holger guides guests of the Amazon’s Itamandi Ecolodge down the Arajuno River; harvesting cassava near the Kichwa village of Santa Bárbara; seeds of the achiote fruit are used as a natural red dye.

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Cotopaxi is one of the tallest active volcanoes in the world and last erupted in 2016.

from guayusa leaves while the men fish for breakfast. After that, the kids go to school while the grown-ups take canoes to work in fields cleared in the jungle. Yuca is the main staple, and we get a chance to try it in a feast prepared just for us. In the center of a long table are clay bowls filled with fried and boiled yuca, along with hearts of palm, white beans, plantains, catfish cooked in leaves over the fire, pineapple accompanied by chocolate dipping sauce, and an Amazonian delicacy: palm larvae bigger than your thumb served on skewers (they’re called “jungle marshmallows” and taste like chewy bacon). We also try chicha, a drink made from yuca roots that ferments after three days and becomes “jungle beer.” (“The kids aren’t allowed to drink it after that,” María Sol tells us.) The day ends with a group photo — and a spectacular sunset.

GLADYS PAULINA IZA TIPAN, IN THE ANDES MOUNTAINS Our final destination (following a brief pit stop in Baños for some paragliding and whitewater rafting) is Cotopaxi National Park. Cotopaxi is the second-highest peak in the country and one of the tallest active volcanoes in the world (it last erupted in 2016).

On the way into the park, we pull over to collect our guide, Paulina Tipan.

When she was a child, Paulina roamed the park with her grandfather, who was a ranger. “I love this place,” Paulina says. “I will never get tired of coming here.” She leads us on a two-mile path that winds around Limpiopungo Lagoon, formed by water from glaciers and offering an unimpeded view of Cotopaxi, its snowy summit making a brief appearance through the clouds. Paulina kneels in the long grass facing the volcano to make an offering of gratitude by sprinkling the ground with perfume made with flowers from the park. She has done the tough, two-day climb up Cotopaxi twice. “My second time there was a spiritual connection with the volcano that I still carry in my heart,” she says. “Every time I look at it, I remember my trip to its summit.”

Although the path we’re on is relatively flat, the altitude makes breathing something you really have to think about. Paulina stops several times, using our recovery breaks to tell us about the many medicinal uses of the plants around us that she learned from her grandmother. One is the orange-flowered chuquiragua shrub that adds bursts of color to the path and, when its leaves are steeped, helps with kidney disease and stomachaches.

On days she’s not guiding visitors in the park, Paulina brings her seven-year-old daughter here. “I teach her everything I learned from my grandparents and my father so that the knowledge will be passed on from generation to generation,” she says. “I tell her the legends of the volcano, about how it is alive and that we need to help take care of it.”

When we reach the end of our hike, María Sol executes a celebratory headstand. Then she drops to the grass, lying on her back. She recommends we do the same, taking a moment to pause and reflect on our time in Ecuador. As we have from day one, we do as she says. Dressed in all our “onion” layers (plus some woolly handwoven hats and mitts we purchased from stalls at the entrance to the park), we starfish on our backs, staring up at the sky. A pair of Andean lapwings fly overhead, their striking black-andwhite-patterned wings drawing our gaze. “I love my country,” María Sol tells us. “And I like when people get a chance to see my country through my eyes. And they see how beautiful it is.” 

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Chuquiragua, Ecuador’s national flower, is prized for its medicinal properties; Paulina has lived near Cotopaxi volcano her whole life: “Every time I visit, I see it differently,” she says; Cotopaxi emerges from behind the clouds.

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P h o t o s by E m m a H a r d y — W o r d s by D o m i n i q u e L a m b e r t o n

In southern Spain, cowboys, pilgrims and revelers in traditional costumes gather to celebrate Andalusia’s spirited horses, centuries-old equine traditions and one-of-a-kind culture.

Once Upon a Time in Andalusia

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If Andalusia is horse country (and it is), El Rocío is its capital. The village of about 1,500, located 40 miles southwest of Seville, is made for horses: Its extra-wide sandy streets are ideal for horse traffic and easy on the hooves; there are hitching posts outside every shop, restaurant and home; and drinking troughs and clusters of leafy trees provide steeds with a respite from the sweltering midday sun. “It really has been designed for horses — and riders and cowboys and pilgrims,” says British photographer Emma Hardy, who witnessed them all converge for two of Andalusia’s most important cultural festivals: La Saca de las Yeguas (the Separating of the Mares) and La Romería de El Rocío (the Pilgrimage of El Rocío). Both are centuries-old celebrations of Andalusian horses, equestrian traditions and Catholicism, and people flock to El Rocío in colorful flamenco-style dresses, wide-brimmed hats and cropped jackets to take it all in. “It’s this fusion of very sincere religion with an almost pagan-like worship of animals, drink, costumes and food,” Emma says. “It’s a sight and an experience.”

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As a rider herself, Emma was able to join the cowboys and herders, known as yagüerizos, on horseback in the marshes of Doñana National Park as they rounded up the semi-wild horses for La Saca de las Yeguas. “Not many spectators see it out in the country like that,” Emma says.

The yagüerizos then lead the horses to the square in El Rocío, where they receive a blessing amongst the crowds before continuing to the nearby town of Almonte.

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Emma walked about 14 miles in the Romería de El Rocío, but the journey, which ends at the shrine of La Blanca Paloma in El Rocío, can take days for pilgrims who come from all over Andalusia. “Everybody dresses up and they drive these beautiful carriages pulled by horses or mules,” says Emma.

“Everything is traditionally decorated, musicians play guitars and there are people of all ages, from kids to great-grandparents.” 

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PHOTOS, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: WIDES & HOLL/GETTY IMAGES; THE GLENEAGLES HOTEL; BLUEORANGE STUDIO/ADOBE STOCK; EZRA ULANDAY/UNSPLASH.

Plan Your Next Family Adventure

By Claire Sibonney

Whether your crew is into city breaks or nature getaways, we’ve got you covered with island, Highland and urban vacation ideas to inspire your next great escape.

Saint Lucia

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F EXPERT TIP “For a breathtaking experience, schedule a sunset cruise aboard a catamaran. Sailing along the coastline with the warm hues of the setting sun casting a magical glow is an extraordinary end to a day.”

Erwin Louisy President and managing director, Barefoot Holidays

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or an island with the long-time slogan “Simply Beautiful,” it’s no wonder Saint Lucia makes for a picture-perfect Caribbean family holiday, complete with spectacular hiking trails and pristine beaches. “While each Caribbean destination has its individual charm, Saint Lucia offers a unique blend of natural beauty, stunning vistas and incredible landscapes where tropical rainforests abound,” says Erwin Louisy, from Saint Lucia-based destination management company Barefoot Holidays.

From bathing in natural mineral mud baths to climbing the famed Gros Piton, Saint Lucia is a playground for the intrepid, with loads of experiences for the culturally curious, too. Adventures await at the island’s bustling markets, rhythmic dance parties and local restaurants, where must-try fare includes lambi (conch stew), breadfruit balls and the national dish of green fig — green bananas cooked with salted codfish. “It’s a hearty and flavorful way to start your Saint Lucian experience,” says Louisy.

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THIS SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT The Pitons are a UNESCO World Heritage Site; play in the mud at Sulphur Springs; clear waters make for superb snorkeling; the Saint Lucia Parrot.

OPENING SPREAD, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT There are more than 1,300 plant species in Saint Lucia; handle hawks at the Gleneagles Hotel in Scotland; the Cloud Forest at Singapore’s Gardens by the Bay; Saint Lucia is a swimmer’s paradise.

FOR NATURE ENTHUSIASTS Immerse yourself in the rejuvenating waters of Sulphur Springs, the world’s only “drive-in volcano,” where visitors pull up to the dormant crater’s edge and plunge into its therapeutic mud baths. Families with active older kids can scale Gros Piton, the larger of Saint Lucia’s twin volcanic peaks, which towers 2,600 feet above the sea. The steep and rocky climb takes anywhere from three to six hours round trip (there are multiple routes that cater to various skill levels), culminating in panoramic island views at the summit.

FOR THRILL SEEKERS If you’re looking for an adrenaline-fueled outing, head to the rainforest in the eastern interior of the island for zip-line and aerial tram rides. Various tours combine both activities, often with the addition of a guided hike, making for an exhilarating half-day adventure spent gliding through Saint Lucia’s verdant canopies. Both experienced and novice birders will delight at the sight of the technicolor Saint Lucia Parrot, the striking blackand-yellow Saint Lucia Oriole, and tiny hummingbirds flitting by.

PHOTOS, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: WILDROZE/GETTY IMAGES; SAINT LUCIA TOURISM AUTHORITY; SLOWMOTIONGLI/ADOBE STOCK; BLUEORANGE STUDIO/ADOBE STOCK.

FOR UNDERSEA EXPLORERS Snorkelers should swim into the crystal-clear waters of Anse Chastanet, a tranquil beach with offshore coral reefs teeming with marine life, including colorful parrotfish, graceful sea turtles and elusive nurse sharks. On a day trip to Pigeon Island National Landmark (the 44-acre island reserve is the site of 18th-century Fort Rodney), snorkelers might encounter eagle rays and moray eels, starfish, anemone and giant barracuda.

WHERE TO STAY Located on the northwest coast, Windjammer Landing Resort & Residences is comprised of hillside suites and villas (the latter make ideal home bases for multi-generational groups), six pools and five restaurants, all facing a crescent-shaped white-sand beach. Younger guests can hang at the kids’ club, sign up for tennis lessons, and, come bedtime, get their own turn-down service with a story from the adorable mascot Jacquot the Parrot.

Even better, the resort has certified nannies, giving parents the chance to slip away for some grown-up fun knowing their little ones are in good hands.

Ask your advisor about Ensemble Exclusive Amenities at this property.

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Scotland

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P EXPERT TIP “Perthshire is renowned for its summer berry production, with beautiful strawberries and raspberries shipped all over the U.K. Be sure to try some from a local market.”

Derek Dear Senior FIT manager – U.K., Moloney & Kelly

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erthshire, in the heart of Scotland, is the ultimate summer spot for families keen to swap screen time for green time. Known for its towering trees and lush landscapes, this region is an untamed playground for everything from kayaking the River Tay to exploring trails that could double as scenes from your clan’s favorite fairy tale. “The River Ericht Walk is a lovely journey from the former market town of Blairgowrie,” says Derek Dear, from the Ireland and U.K. destination management company Moloney & Kelly. “It takes you along the River Ericht as it rushes down to the town with sites along the way, including lookouts and old mills.”

Perthshire is also where history comes alive, not just in museums, but in ancient castles you can step inside. And the region’s abundant wildlife, from cheeky red squirrels to the iconic woolly sheep and Highland cattle grazing in the fields, transforms outdoor excursions into enchanting encounters with nature’s locals.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Riding lessons at the Gleneagles Hotel’s equestrian school; the oldest section of Blair Castle dates to 1269; rugged mountains and glorious glens await in Perthshire.

FOR HISTORY BUFFS Explore the ancient halls of Blair Castle, a centuries-old estate steeped in tumultuous history, including a siege that was part of the Jacobite rising of 1745. Leave enough time to walk the castle’s sprawling grounds, exploring its nine-acre walled garden, scenic sculpture trail and red-deer park, home to a resident herd. Then, at the newly opened Perth Museum, get an up-close look at the legendary Stone of Destiny — also known as the Stone of Scone — which has returned to Perthshire for the first time in more than 700 years (it was previously on display at Edinburgh Castle). The slab of sandstone served in the medieval coronations of Scottish kings and, later, English and then British monarchs, including the most recent crowning of King Charles III. PHOTOS, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: THE GLENEAGLES HOTEL; GEORGE CLERK/GETTY IMAGES; PITSCH22/ADOBE STOCK.

FOR THRILL SEEKERS Dive into Perthshire’s adventurous side with a guided gorge scrambling (a.k.a. canyoning or gorge walking) tour. You’ll navigate natural gorges or canyons, such as the stunning Bruar Canyon, tackling obstacles like cascading waterfalls and rocky pools, all while safely attached to ropes for abseiling and climbing. You can also explore the region’s waters by kayak, paddling the sometimes serene, sometimes wild River Tay, or experience the thrill of speeding along the rapids on a RIB (rigid inflatable boat) adventure.

FOR SWEET TOOTHS Cap off an action-packed day with a visit to Iain Burnett Highland Chocolatier to sample artisanal chocolates crafted by the award-winning master chocolatier. The shop, located in the picturesque village of Grandtully, offers audio-guided tasting flights, showcasing the signature Velvet Truffle — a culinary masterpiece refined over three years and 120 recipe iterations.

WHERE TO STAY Celebrating its 100th anniversary in 2024, the Gleneagles Hotel is where you’ll find a host of Highland activities for the whole family. While parents enjoy a round of golf or a spa treatment that includes exfoliation with Himalayan and Scottish sea salts, kids can partake in a range of supervised programming on the more than 850acre estate. They might groom a pony, try archery and axe-throwing, go bug hunting or even learn to handle and fly a hawk at the on-site falconry school.

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Singapore

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T EXPERT TIP “Gardens by the Bay integrates technology and nature to provide an engaging experience for all ages. The Supertree Grove — tall, tree-like structures covered in lights — is the highlight of the gardens. Families can also visit the Cloud Forest, which has a misty mountain, and the Flower Dome, the largest glass greenhouse in the world.”

Marlina Binte Rafai Inbound supervisor, EXO Travel Singapore

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he island of Singapore might lure you with its year-round tropical climate, futuristic gardens and accessible transit system, but it’s the blend of cultures that truly lights up this destination for all ages. “Various ethnicities — Chinese, Malay, Indian and Eurasian — are mixed together in Singapore,” says Marlina Binte Rafai, from destination management company EXO Travel. “Our cuisines, dialects, celebrations and customs all reflect this diversity, offering families a range of cultural experiences to explore.”

If you’re a foodie family, come hungry: Eating is a national pastime in Singapore. In 2020, UNESCO recognized Singapore’s hawker centers (bustling food hubs where stalls serve quick and affordable dishes) as part of the city-state’s “intangible cultural heritage.”

Fill your table with an assortment of kid-friendly dishes, such as satay skewers and noodles, and don’t forget the beloved shaved-ice dessert known as ice kachang.

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FA M I LY T R AV E L

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Traditions converge in Singapore’s vibrant multicultural neighborhoods; sci-fi architecture meets spectacular flora at Gardens by the Bay; Singapore Zoo’s resident giraffes; Hokkien prawn mee (noodles) is a staple dish at the city’s ubiquitous hawker centers.

FOR NATURE ENTHUSIASTS A sky-high nature escape, the Southern Ridges is a six-mile trail connecting five major parks on a natural crest in southern Singapore. Don’t miss the undulating Henderson Waves bridge suspended 118 feet above the ground, a top spot for taking in views of the city. At the Singapore Botanic Gardens, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, explore the National Orchid Garden with more than 1,000 species and 2,000 hybrids on display, as well as the Jacob Ballas Children’s Garden, where kids can get their hands dirty learning about plant ecology.

FOR BEACHGOERS Sentosa Island, one of Singapore’s most popular island getaways, is easily accessible from the city’s southern coast by car, train, cable car or on foot via a scenic boardwalk. The island is known for its luxury resorts and theme parks, including Universal Studios Singapore, but its immaculate man-made beaches are ideal for families seeking fun in the sun. Palawan Beach has shallow waters and a suspension bridge that leads to a small island, while lively Siloso Beach offers a variety of water sports, including kayaking and skimboarding.

PHOTOS, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: MATT BRINEY/UNSPLASH; COLEEN RIVAS/UNSPLASH; YSK/ADOBE STOCK; SINGAPORE TOURISM BOARD/YIK KEAT.

FOR ANIMAL LOVERS See your kids wide-eyed with wonder as they feed elephants or watch free-ranging orangutans swing overhead. Located at Mandai Wildlife Reserve, Singapore Zoo’s 65 acres of naturalistic enclosures are home to more than 4,200 animals, including two-toed sloths, ring-tailed lemurs and white tigers. Renowned for its animal care, conservation and immersive experiences, the zoo also offers “Zookeeper for a Day” tours, where kids aged six and up can go behind the scenes to learn about wildlife stewardship firsthand.

WHERE TO STAY At the newly opened COMO Metropolitan Singapore, check your brood into a spacious suite with wall-to-wall windows, a sleek kitchenette and tech-forward touches like universal charging stations. Start your day in the lobby with a coffee brewed by the resident robot barista, Bruno, and cool off at the rooftop pool. Families also get access to b_together, an exclusive on-site club with indoor and outdoor play zones for kids and a botanical-themed cocktail bar for parents.

Ask your advisor about Ensemble Exclusive Amenities at this property.

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ADVENTURE

The Freedom of Freediving

PHOTO: ALEX VOYER.

B y L a u ra S t u d a r u s

Whether they’re exploring underwater worlds or competing for world records, freedivers plunge into the depths to get closer to the ocean — and to themselves.

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coastal communities to gather food.

The modern story of freediving can be traced to 1949, when the Hungarian-born Italian Raimondo Bucher, a fighter pilot and avid spearfisher, dove almost 100 feet down into the Bay of Naples on a dare. At the time, scientists believed 50 meters (164 feet) was the human limit, and intrepid divers set out to prove them wrong, training to perfect their breath-hold. One of the current competitive records is just over 700 feet deep.

Witnessing an experienced freediver is like watching a mermaid glide through her natural habitat with otherworldly ease. Thanks to hours of practice and the mammalian diving reflex — a human response that slows the heart rate and constricts blood vessels — some athletes at the upper level of the sport can stay underwater for several minutes at a time (the current number to beat is 24 minutes, 37 seconds).

My modest dive, just less than a minute long and

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ABOVE Freediving photographer Alex Voyer captures Mexico’s cenotes — ­water-filled sinkholes in the limestone bedrock.

OPENING SPREAD There may not be any fences separating divers from the wildlife beneath the waves, but it’s important to keep a respectful distance at all times.

Even the largest blue whale can be disturbed by the air bubbles escaping from a snorkel.

PHOTO: ALEX VOYER.

I

’m floating at the surface of dazzling blue water in Wakaya, Fiji, when a patch of coral catches my eye, fanning out in stunning shades of orange, pink and red just below my feet. I breathe deeply, slowing down my heart rate, ending with one final gulp of air. And then, under the watchful eye of our guide, I dive below to get a closer look, marveling as the water closes around me and I slip into what feels like another world.

I’m freediving — holding my breath to dive deep below the waves without scuba gear or a snorkel. Although it’s only now taking off as a sport, freediving is not a new practice. For more than 2,000 years, ­Japan’s ama (women of the sea) divers have perfected the art in order to collect pearls, abalone and edible seaweed from the ocean floor. In ancient Greece, the island of Kalymnos was the epicenter of sponge diving, and before the advent of commercial fishing, freediving and spearfishing were common ways for

PHOTO: ALEX VOYER.

ADVENTURE

ABOVE The synchronous movements of this school of fish in the Galapagos Islands are an underwater marvel — and a means of survival.

Moving in ­perfect unison, the densely packed cluster confuses potential predators, making it difficult to target individual prey.

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ADVENTURE

LEFT The Indian Ocean is home to six of the world’s seven species of sea turtles, its shallow seagrass beds providing the perfect habitat.

Where to Try It

Whether you’re equipped with a snorkel or want to attempt your first freedive, here are five of the best spots to experience the world underwater.

ANANTARA DHIGU MALDIVES RESORT, MALDIVES This tropical island resort is perfect for snorkelers and beginner freedivers alike: Staff guide you through the reefs, exploring as locals have done for centuries.

WAKAYA ISLAND RESORT & SPA, FIJI Fiji’s barrier reefs — some of the world’s largest — are easily accessible, whether you’re jumping off a boat or entering from shore.

CHANNEL ISLANDS, CALIFORNIA

Sheena McNally of Edmonton, Alberta — hundreds of miles from the closest ocean — is one of the top-

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ranked freedivers in the world, and her goal is to go more than 328 feet deep in competition this year. The graphic and web designer started with scuba diving, but when a friend convinced her to take a beginners’ freediving class, she was instantly hooked.

At first, taking her dives deeper was a slow process.

Training by descending headfirst in 10-meter (about 33 feet) increments, Sheena thought she was content with her personal bests. But those bests kept getting better until, one day in training, she achieved a dive that was deeper than one of the Canadian national records. “I thought, ‘I wonder if I can do that dive in competition and make it official?’” Sheena says.

Since that day in 2018, Sheena has competed in Dominica, Cyprus and Honduras at the Caribbean Cup International Annual Freediving Competition, where she broke the Canadian record of 74 meters — twice — with dives of 75 and 77 meters. “What surprised me was everybody was cheering for everyone

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YONAGUNI ISLAND, OKINAWA, JAPAN Okinawa’s subtropical waters are filled with 200 coral species and dotted with more than 160 islands, including Yonaguni, where divers come to see Kaitei Iseki. This mysterious underwater monolith is viewable beginning at just 16 feet deep.

GREAT BLUE HOLE, BELIZE The scenic 407-foot-deep Caribbean sinkhole is part of the Belize Barrier Reef Reserve System, a UNESCO World Heritage Site reserved for more advanced divers excited to discover its coral, stalactites and marine life.

PHOTO: ALEX VOYER.

about 10 feet deep, is exhilarating. There’s a high that comes with venturing somewhere extraordinary and knowing it’s your body that brought you there. I am a stark beginner, but freediving is a skill that can be developed quickly — a nod to Kate Winslet, who after only three weeks of training held her breath for seven minutes, 15 seconds for the filming of Avatar: The Way of Water, beating Tom Cruise’s previous on-screen breath-hold record by 75 seconds.

The idea of embracing the aquatic world without a tank (or a set of gills) can be intimidating, and the reward for getting it wrong is a lungful of seawater.

But therein lies the beauty — freediving is as taxing as you make it. Simply being able to hold your breath and remain submerged is a profound experience, even on shallow reef dives.

California’s Channel Islands have some of the biggest kelp forests on the planet, ranging from 10 feet to 100 feet deep. An abundance of freediving instructors can help lead you through this stunning national park.

PHOTOS, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: JOHNNY AFRICA/UNSPLASH; SIAN LIN; BEN YAVAR.

ADVENTURE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Vibrantly colored coral is a sure sign of a healthy reef — and a dive site that’s worth exploring; now that she’s broken several Canadian records, competitive freediver Sheena McNally has a new goal: reaching a depth of 328 feet; Sheena trains with a diving line to go deeper.

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PHOTO: ALEX VOYER.

ADVENTURE

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else,” she says. “We were competing, but we were also just doing this crazy thing together.” Sheena practices Vipassana meditation and says it has helped her dive deeper, partly because the sport is both a physical and mental challenge. “Whatever is happening, including thoughts like ‘Wow, I’m deep,’ you just have to experience it and then carry on.”

South African Zandi Ndhlovu, better known as the Black Mermaid, also came to freediving by chance. She learned to swim in her teens and, on a 2016 snorkel tour in Bali, followed the guide down to scoop up a handful of shells — freediving without even realizing it.

Growing up in landlocked Johannesburg, what Zandi found below the surface was transformative: “I was completely in awe of the blues, the yellow fish, the way the sun hit the coral, and how it looked like the corals were lit from beneath,” she says. The diversity of the underwater ecosystem was “most liberating, as someone who had always battled with

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finding belonging in the world.”

Back in South Africa, Zandi tried scuba, but the experience didn’t spark the same emotional resonance. Then, in 2018, she saw a video of women diving without tanks. “I knew I needed to sign up to do that,” she says.

In 2020, Zandi became the first Black freediving instructor in South Africa, a milestone that motivated her to quit her job in management consulting and “chase the ocean.” She also let go of traditional training techniques: Diving based on intuition, instead of wearing a diving watch and using a diving line to guide her into the deep, helped her feel even more at home in the ocean. “There’s a place where I can go when I’m hurting,” she says. “I just go back to the ocean, dive into her depths and feel affirmed.”

In 2020, Zandi founded the Black Mermaid Foundation, a non-profit designed to educate child­ ren and spark their interest in the ocean. Only about

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ABOVE, LEFT TO RIGHT Freediver Zandi Ndhlovu navigates an atmospheric wreck off the coast of Cape Town; the subtropical waters of Okinawa, Japan, support 200 coral species.

PREVIOUS SPREAD Welcome to the pod: Any freediver who can manage a seven-minute breath-hold will fit right in with dolphins — as fellow mammals, they need to surface just as regularly.

PHOTOS: PIER NIRANDARA (ZANDI NDHLOVU); HIROKO YOSHII/UNSPLASH (CORAL).

ADVENTURE

PHOTO: ALEX VOYER.

ADVENTURE

ABOVE The use of a monofin enables a freediver to go deeper, faster.

The monofin design takes cues from whales’ flukes to deliver more power and speed than conventional flippers.

15 percent of South Africans can swim, a number that dips even lower among Black communities. Zandi hopes to change that by decolonizing ocean access so that more people can share her life-changing experiences, while also helping inspire the next generation of ocean conservationists.

Water, and access to it, have long been important parts of life and work for photographer and freediving instructor Alex Voyer. “For me, freediving is not about numbers,” he says. “My main goal — for both me and for my students — is not to go deep or to stay too long.

It’s just to enjoy being in the water.”

Alex swims wherever he goes. (When at home in Paris, the former film technician takes to the canals and the Seine River to get his lengths in.) In 2011, while working in France as a sound engineer on a documentary about freediving, Alex borrowed some photo equipment from the director and began diving to capture haunting images of sea creatures and divers

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swimming together below the surface. “You cannot separate diving and wildlife,” he says.

Now, splitting his time between the French capital and a sailboat in French Polynesia, Alex embraces the unpredictability of the ocean in his photography. It takes patience to capture divers’ encounters with wildlife — encounters that are never on humans’ terms.

In Fiji, I experience those momentous encounters firsthand. I return to the reef one last time to swim alongside the sharks, stingrays and prismatic schools of fish framed by walls of multicolor coral. My amateur attempts at freediving and breath-holds (always practiced with another person present) begin to feel natural, and suddenly I not only understand but embrace the water. Whether your goal for exploring is to test your physical limits, find your place in the world or simply witness nature’s beauty beneath the waves, the water is there for you. You just have to dive in. 

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IMMERSIVE MORE TIME ASHORE FOR MORE UNFORGETTABLE MOMENTS

Our Immersive Overnights are a unique series of voyages across Europe and Asia where each port of call features an overnight stay. This allows for deeper exploration, discovery, and engagement with much-loved destinations, including special shoreside experiences, crafted to make each overnight stop a memorable and unique part of your journey.

PLEASE CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS

PHOTO: LIGHTSCAPE/UNSPLASH.

WHERE NEXT

Altai Mountains, Mongolia For centuries, Kazakh nomads have crossed the wilds of western Mongolia, where sprawling grasslands rise to the permanently snow-capped summits of the Altai range. Befitting the dramatic landscape is the nomads’ tradition of hunting by golden eagle: a Bronze Age skill that continues to help these hunters (known as berkutchi) acquire their protective furs. Witnessing this age-old practice in person is reserved for the most adventurous of travelers — along with the other immersive Mongolian experiences you’ll discover on page 66.

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WHERE NEXT

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A P E R F E C T DAY I N

Quebec City CANADA

Go beyond the ramparts to discover the vibrant dining scene and modern cultural attractions that only enhance Quebec City’s old-world ambiance.

B y J e s s i c a H u ra s

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PHOTO: TIBOR BOGNAR/GETTY IMAGES.

M

y first trip to Quebec City, about a decade ago, focused on Old ­Q uebec: a UNESCO World Heritage Site founded in 1608, and the only walled city in North America. While you can easily build an itinerary around that historic district’s charms — ornate churches, narrow cobblestone streets and centuries-old fortifications made of heavy stone — my latest visit shows me that the city’s real allure is the depth of its rich history paired with its dynamic, trend-setting present. You can pop into a cozy restaurant for Quebecois staples like tourtière and pouding chômeur or walk just a few blocks farther to discover the locally driven fare being pioneered by boundary-pushing chefs.

Although the city is often noted for offering a taste of Europe in North America, I quickly realize that Quebec’s capital is distinctly its own. The city’s reverence for its francophone and Indigenous heritage is complemented by a welcoming joie de vivre and the exuberance of year-round festivities, from the W ­ inter Carnival’s celebration of snow to the Festival d’été de Québec every summer.

WHERE NEXT

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A P E R F E C T DAY I N

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PHOTOS: QUEBEC NATIONAL CAPITAL COMMISSION (01); SIMON FERLAND (02); S. GREG PANOSIAN/GETTY IMAGES (03).

Morning My day kicks off at Bistro L’Orygine in Old Quebec, where the vibes are serene and the playful cuisine highlights the passion for homegrown ingredients that defines the city’s restaurant scene. First comes an amuse-bouche of fingerling potato sprinkled with diced jalapeño, followed by halibut fritters served over swirls of grilled pepper hummus. For the main, I can’t resist a fancied-up take on a croque monsieur with potato focaccia and veal jus béchamel sauce.

After my multicourse brunch, an invigorating walk is the best way to reach my next stop. En route, I admire Notre-Dame-deQuébec Basilica-­Cathedral in the morning sunlight. While its stone exterior may not reflect the grandeur of the gold leaf within, it is the city’s enduring guardian, having withstood war and multiple fires in its nearly 400-year history.

It’s 15 minutes by foot to Pôle culturel du Monastère des Ursulines, where a Roman Catholic religious order established North America’s first school for young girls.

Set within the grounds of the Ursulines’ 17th-century monastery, this museum highlights the school’s progressive curriculum through three floors of exhibits, including displays dedicated to science and music. I peer into glass-enclosed cases at tools used for teaching chemistry and physics in the 19th century — subjects girls of that time were not often encouraged to pursue. Don’t miss the adjacent chapel, home to some of the finest surviving wood carvings from the New France era, dating back to the early 1700s.

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I made sure to pop my swimwear and flip-flops in my bag for my next destination: Station de la Plage, a new section of Promenade Samuel-De Champlain park that runs along the St. Lawrence River.

With a sandy, man-made beach and a gigantic infinity pool overlooking the river, Station de la Plage feels more like a cool beach club than a public pool. Don’t let its chic looks fool you though — this is no members-only joint. Through spring and summer, you’ll see Quebecers of all stripes laying out beach towels to claim their patch of soft sand.

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01 The new infinity pool at Station de la Plage creates the illusion of swimming in the St. Lawrence River.

02 From poached egg with arctic char gravlax to wild blueberry pancakes, Bistro L’Orygine’s menu prizes locally sourced ingredients.

03 Place Royale, where Samuel de Champlain founded Quebec City in 1608, is home to Notre-Dame-desVictoires, the oldest stone church in North America.

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WHERE NEXT

Planning for the busy lunch rush, I’ve already booked a midday table at Le Clan, a popular fine-dining restaurant led by chef Stéphane Modat, who previously ran the kitchen at the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac. Modat works closely with local producers to spotlight ingredients raised and grown in Quebec, with each item on the menu including the precise geographic coordinates from where it was sourced.

Modat’s passion for hunting and fishing informs an always-changing selection of dishes, such as wild hare with black trumpet mushrooms.

My exploration of the city’s food and drink scene doesn’t end there: Next up is a guided brewery hop with Broue-Tours. The three-hour adventure around hip SaintRoch, the heart of Quebec City’s craft beer scene, delves into the neighborhood’s history and culture through visits to a trio of breweries. Microbrewery La Barberie quickly wins me over with its picturesque terrace shaded by mature trees and funky wild ale made with riesling grapes. First settled in the 1600s, the neighborhood

A P E R F E C T DAY I N

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04 Enjoy a gentle yoga class in 17th-century surroundings at Le Monastère des Augustines.

06 Kids (and dogs) are always welcome in Saint-Roch microbrewery La Barberie.

owes its name to the patron saint of dogs and bachelors — both of which you’re likely to encounter in the area today (sometimes even together).

It’s worth sticking around to see more of Saint-Roch, a former working-class district that’s now a hub of culture, tech, nightlife and fashion. One of its main strips, Rue Saint-Joseph, is pedestrian-only on summer weekends, making for easy strolling.

I swing by long-running chocolate-maker Champagne Chocolatier for some souvenir chocolate-covered sponge toffee before flipping through vintage records at Le Knock-Out! and perusing the retro and vintage furniture collection at Déjà Vu. If you’re more of a spa-goer than a shopper, head to nearby Le Monastère des ­Augustines for some pre-dinner pampering. A hotel and wellness retreat set in a former 17th-century monastery and hospital, it offers day passes that include a gentle yoga class, access to the monastery museum, which chronicles the site’s history as a place for healing, and a walking tour of the property.

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05 Smelt with tomatoes, seaweed and garlic chives showcases chef Stéphane Modat’s fresh take on regional fare.

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PHOTOS: LE MONASTÈRE DES AUGUSTINES (04); FREDERIC LAROCHE (05); ETIENNE DIONNE FOR LA BARBERIE (06).

Afternoon

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A P E R F E C T DAY I N

PHOTOS: MOMENT FACTORY (07); ALMA KISMIC FOR BAR JJACQUES (08); FAIRMONT LE CHÂTEAU FRONTENAC (WHERE TO STAY).

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07 The immersive Onhwa’ Lumina night walk celebrates the Huron-Wendat Nation with innovative light, sound and video projections.

08 The best-seller at bar jjacques is the Mile High Club, a blend of raspberry liquor, infused hibiscus vodka, lemon and egg white.

Evening I’ve been nibbling all day, but that doesn’t dissuade me from taking on another multicourse meal at Le 101 Restaurant de quartier. Although “101” is a nod to the restaurant’s street number, it could just as easily reflect chef-owner Charles Gignac’s goal of introducing diners to traditional French cooking in an approachable way.

With thoughtful plating and quality ingredients, dishes like foie gras with mulled wine feel anything but textbook.

Dishes can be ordered à la carte, but the three-course tasting menu paired with low-intervention wines from primarily French vineyards is a fine reward for all the steps I’ve put in.

After dinner, I take a cab to Wendake, a 15-minute drive outside the city, to see Onhwa’ Lumina, an immersive multimedia experience that tells the story of the Huron-Wendat people. Give yourself an

hour to traverse this illuminated, after-​ dark attraction, which stretches for three-quarters of a mile through the SaintRémy wooded area. The rituals, myths and traditions of Huron-Wendat culture are explored through seven zones featuring light and sound displays, along with video projections.

Back in the city, I cap off my evening in the speakeasy-like surroundings of bar jjacques. The bar’s blink-and-you’llmiss-it entrance opens up into an intimate space decked out with velvet banquettes and privacy curtains. After browsing the extensive cocktail menu, I settle on the zingy Bombardier, featuring a mezcal and silver tequila base blended with coconut oil, lime and ginger. It’s from a section of the menu featuring an aviation theme — a fitting drink to toast adieu to Quebec City before my flight home. 

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W H E R E T O S TAY FAIRMONT LE CHÂTEAU FRONTENAC

Situated on Cap Diamant, overlooking Old Quebec and the St. Lawrence River, this 19th-century hotel is as much a landmark as it is luxury lodging. The acclaimed Champlain Restaurant (first opened in 1893), 610 elegant guest rooms and ornately decorated lobby do justice to its iconic status.

Ask your advisor about Ensemble Exclusive Amenities at this property.

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WHERE NEXT

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ASK A LOCAL

Embracing the Land of the Eternal Blue Sky Our local expert shares the transformative experiences to be had in the company of nomads in Mongolia’s unspoiled wilderness.

By Robert Liwanag

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What surprises travelers most about Mongolia?

Throughout history, Mongolia was the meeting point of the Western world and the Asian world, but it’s also distinct from both. I think that’s because we were nomads and had an adaptability — to harsh weather and situations — that shaped our culture.

What does an overnight stay look like?

We talk about the importance of sustainability and minimalism, but Mongolian nomads have always lived that way. A family typically has two or three gers (yurts): one for the kitchen and others for sleeping. Many modern gers have private bathrooms and electricity (powered by solar panels), but traditional gers only consist of basic things like beds and a fire. If you’re traveling as a family, it’s cozy to sleep together in one place.

02 How can visitors immerse themselves in that culture?

Get out of the big cities like Ulaanbaatar and embrace Mongolia’s nomadic lifestyle.

Nomadic herders make up onethird of the population — they move around four to eight times each year following their goats, sheep and horses — and they’re renowned for their hospitality.

On a home stay, they will invite you in for milk tea, boortsog (fried dough) and a hearty meal, and you’ll make a meaningful connection, whether you speak the language or not.

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Uyanga Galbadrakh CO-FOUNDER AND MANAGING DIRECTOR OF WILDMONGOLIA

Born and raised in Mongolia, Galbadrakh spent some of her childhood living nomadically. In 2022, she co-founded WildMongolia, which crafts custom itineraries in the Land of the Eternal Blue Sky.

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ABOVE Roughly 90 percent of the country’s rural population lives in gers, or yurts, designed to withstand strong winds yet light enough to disassemble and carry.

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF WILDMONGOLIA.

What sorts of wildlife should travelers keep an eye out for?

At Hustai National Park, 60 miles from Ulaanbaatar, you’ll spot Przewalski’s horses, a.k.a.

Mongolian wild horses. They were once declared extinct, with only a few left in zoos. But in the 1990s, Mongolia started reintroducing them into its national parks, and today there’s a population of about a thousand.

TAILS UP TODAY, PADDLES DOWN TOMMOROW. The best way to experience the awe of Alaska is with Norwegian Cruise Line.

When you vacation with Norwegian Cruise Line® in Alaska, every day is a new day. Unpack once and wake up

in a new destination nearly every morning. Observe whales up close in Juneau, then watch an award-winning

show at sea one day. Kayak along Skagway’s rugged coastline, then come back on board and triumph in a laser tag battle under the stars the next day. Wherever the sea breeze takes you, there’s something for everyone every single day of your cruise. So come aboard and experience a different tomorrow with Norwegian.

PLEASE CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS.

^Buy an air ticket and the 2nd guest flies for free. *See full terms and conditions at ncl.com/fasoffer. ©2024 NCL Corporation Ltd. Ships’ Registry: Bahamas and USA. 1493686 2/24

Icy Strait Point, Alaska

Norwegian Encore®

Juneau, Alaska

WHERE NEXT

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PORT OF CALL

FAST FACTS

Athens

Currency Euro

Language Greek

More than just a jumping-off point for Mykonos and Santorini, the Greek capital deserves a few days of discovery pre- or post-cruise.

Tip 10%–15% for good service.

By Brett Walther

Temperature

Tipping

Average daily highs range from 56°F/13°C (January) to 92°F/33°C (August).

ATHENS

HISTORY

438 BC

The Parthenon, commissioned by Athenian leader Pericles, is completed. This is considered the Golden Age of Athens.

1834

A

thens is hallowed ground for history buffs, but you don’t have to be a classical-​ studies major to feel its pull. For more than 3,000 years, philosophers, artists and architects have been drawn to the sacred rock at its center, the Acropolis, resulting in a city that, from a traveler’s perspective, is surprisingly compact and easily walkable. It helps that its treasure trove of archeological gems are linked by a series of pedestrian walkways, including the magnificent Dionysiou Areopagitou, allowing you to take in everything from Hadrian’s Arch to the Ancient Agora on foot, and at your own pace. It’s a route that skirts the southern slopes of the Acropolis, where the city’s most recognizable landmark, the Parthenon, continually draws the eye skyward — a masterpiece of classical architecture that’s as awe-inspiring as its reputation suggests.

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Following the Greek War of Independence, which brings an end to 400 years of Ottoman occupation, Athens is officially declared capital of the independent Greek state.

1896

Athens hosts the first modern Olympic Games at the Panathenaic Stadium — the only stadium in the world built entirely of marble.

CRUISE SHIP ILLUSTRATION: CLAIRE M c CRACKEN. PHOTO: CONSTANTINOS KOLLIAS/UNSPLASH (HISTORY).

GREECE

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PORT OF CALL

PHOTOS: BUENA VISTA IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (EVERY SUNDAY); VAL TRAVELLER/ADOBE STOCK (MARK YOUR CALENDAR); XRISTINA BELLOU/UNSPLASH (IF YOU’RE UP FOR A DAY TRIP); KYPROS/GETTY IMAGES (EAT THIS – KOULOURI); AHIRAO/ADOBE STOCK (EAT THIS – MEZE); CHEFMD/GETTY IMAGES (DRINK LIKE A LOCAL).

DID YOU KNOW?

Last year, the Greek government imposed a visitor cap at the Acropolis, restricting daily admission to 20,000, with hourly limits in place. Book your timed-entry ticket in advance to avoid disappointment.

E V E RY S U N DAY

Changing of the Guard Although you can catch an hourly changing of the guard at the Hellenic Parliament Monday through Saturday, the impressive full ceremony is reserved for Sundays at 11 a.m.

This is when members of the Evzones — the Greek Presidential Guard — lay fresh wreaths at Syntagma Square’s Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Impeccable military precision aside, it’s the elite soldiers’ traditional dress that provides the most striking spectacle.

E AT T H I S

MARK YOUR CALENDAR

Athens and Epidaurus Festival What could be better than after-hours access to an 1,800-year-old theater? Throw in a live performance of a Puccini opera, and you’ll understand the appeal of the Athens and Epidaurus Festival. From June to August, the event stages world-class musical productions in ancient sites around the city, including the atmospheric Odeon of Herodes Atticus.

Koulouri Athens’ answer to the bagel, these sesame-covered bread rings are crunchy on the outside, soft on the inside.

And much like a bagel, they come in sweet and savory varieties, including raisin, sun-dried tomato and — this is Greece, after all — black olive.

DRINK LIKE A LOCAL

IF YOU’RE UP F O R A D AY T R I P…

Sail the Saronic Gulf For a Greek island getaway that’s doable in a day, take the ferry to Aegina. The nearest of the Saronic Gulf islands, its whitewashed houses and luminous blue-green waters channel the charms of the Cyclades. Don’t leave without a bag of Aegina pistachios; a rare variety grown exclusively on the island, they’re widely regarded as the world’s best.

Meze At least one of your meals should be at a mezedopoleio, a restaurant serving traditional Greek meze (tapas) dishes.

Order a succession of the small, shareable plates — ensure kolokithokeftedes (zucchini fritters) make the cut — and wash it all down with a pint of Mythos.

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Ouzo If you’ve only ever slugged it back as an illadvised shot, you haven’t really experienced Greece’s national drink.

Locals dilute this aniseflavored liquor with ice water. Don’t be put off by the resulting cloudiness: It’s a natural reaction between the water and oils in the anise.

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WHERE NEXT

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PORT OF CALL

I F YO U WA N T TO CO O L O F F…

Make it a Museum Day

INSIDER TIP

Acropolis Museum Before you scale the Acropolis, browse 4,000 artifacts found on its slopes — the context they provide makes for a more meaningful experience.

Museum of Cycladic Art Get your fill of neolithic figurines, Hellenistic coins and classical vases at this small but significant museum in the ritzy Kolonaki quarter.

National Archaeological Museum Considered one of the world’s greatest archeology collections, this museum tells the story of ancient Greece.

The main port of Athens, Piraeus, is seven miles from the city center, but the metro provides a direct link that’s often faster than car service.

LOCAL LINGO

Volta Cap off a busy day of sightseeing with the Greek tradition of volta — a gentle stroll at sundown. The marblepaved streets of the Plaka district provide the perfect setting for this relaxing ritual.

W H E R E TO S TAY

The Dolli at Acropolis CAN’T MISS

Cape Sounion It might seem strange to venture an hour outside of Athens to see yet more ancient ruins, but Cape Sounion is worth adding to your itinerary. Perched high on its rugged clifftop is the Temple of Poseidon, one of Greece’s most dramatic monuments, especially if you stick around for sunset: The soul-stirring skies easily rival those found on the Greek islands. You’ll take it all in on a private tour with Greece a la Carte, which handles transportation from the capital along the scenic coastal route known as the Athens Riviera.

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Built in 1925, this property was originally the mansion of a Greek shipping magnate. Opening its doors last year as an ultra-chic boutique hotel, the Dolli’s 46 sundrenched bedrooms, pieds-à-terre and apartments retain the feel of an elegant private home, perfectly situated for exploring Plaka. Lose the crowds — but not the views of the Acropolis — on the panoramic rooftop, where you’ll find a breathtaking infinity pool.

Ask your advisor about Ensemble Exclusive Amenities at this property.

PHOTOS: ARNO SENONER/UNSPLASH (IF YOU WANT TO COOL OFF – ACROPOLIS MUSEUM); DORA/ADOBE STOCK (IF YOU WANT TO COOL OFF – MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC ART); MERCH HÜSEY/UNSPLASH (IF YOU WANT TO COOL OFF – NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM); SVETLA ILIEVA/GETTY IMAGES (INSIDER TIP); CAVAN IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES (LOCAL LINGO); CHRIS MAI/UNSPLASH (CAN’T MISS); THE DOLLI AT ACROPOLIS (WHERE TO STAY).

Enjoy world-class collections — and a welcome hit of air-conditioning — at Athens’ must-see museums.

No place thrills like Alaska,

and no one takes you there like Princess Majestic mountains, magnificent glaciers and iconic wildlife. Experience it by sea, rail and Princess®-owned wilderness lodges with an 11-day Denali Explorer cruisetour.

11-day Alaska Denali Explorer Cruisetour FA4 Sapphire Princess®️ | 8/23/25 Anchorage (Whittier) to Fairbanks

Balcony fares from* $

3,244 USD

*Taxes, fees & port expenses of up to $313.97 USD are additional.

Amenities the whole family will love!

up to

400

$

USD Cruisetour CA$H per stateroom2

+

60 USD to spend on board per stateroom

$

2

PLEASE CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS. *$3,244 USD fare is based on category BE on Sapphire Princess®️ 8/23/25 sailing for tour FA4, on a space available basis at time of booking. Fares for other dates may vary.

This cruisetour CA$H offer is good on any 2025 Alaska cruisetour FA4, any ship and any sail date. 2Certain restrictions apply, please refer to your travel advisor for full terms, conditions and definitions that apply to Cruisetour CA$H, Onboard Spending Money and Optional Meal Plan. Inclusions are subject to change. Server gratuity (15%) and taxes are included in the package price. Alcoholic beverages are not included in meal packages. Cruisetour CA$H 2025 offer expires March 31, 2025. ©️2024, Princess Cruise Lines, Ltd. Princess®️, MedallionClass®️, and the Princess logo are trademarks of Princess Cruise Lines, Ltd. or its affiliates. All rights reserved. Ships of Bermudan and British registry.

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O U T TA K E

The 84-year-old matriarch of Santa Bárbara, a Kichwa community in the Amazon, bequeathed the village to the girls in her family. Together, they oversee the cooking, farming and child-rearing. When travelers visit, they can purchase bowls the women have molded out of river clay, glazed with tree sap and painted with dye made from leaves and berries.

PHOTO: YOLANDA ESCOBAR JIMÉNEZ. TEXT: SYDNEY LONEY.

Santa Bárbara, Ecuador

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The Arctic and Greenland UNLOCK THE TOP OF THE WORLD

Welcome to one of the most remote places on Earth: a dramatic region of breathtaking scenery, frozen oceans, and rugged features.

Encompassing the entire northernmost area of the planet, it stretches across a wide range of geographies, nations, and cultures: such as Svalbard, Iceland, Greenland, and the Canadian High Arctic — lands of skyscraper-sized icebergs, awe-inspiring polar bears, whales and walruses, and welcoming Inuit communities.

CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR DETAILS ON 2024-2026 ITINERARIES.

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT THE ARCTIC AND GREENLAND

Travel Better Thank you for traveling with us in the latest issue of Range by Ensemble. Start planning your next journey — beyond these pages — with your trusted Ensemble travel advisor.