Range: Volume 11

By

F R E N C H P O LY N E S I A / M O R O C C O / P E R U / T H A I L A N D

QUEBEC À LA CARTE Meet the culinary stars lighting up la belle province.

V OL U M E 1 1

More than a cruise — it’s a culinary experience

The all-new Star Princess®, along with her sister ship Sun Princess®, are gourmet destinations at sea. with 30 restaurants and bars to choose from, there’s a flavor for every taste. Among the many dining experiences waiting to be discovered, indulge at The Butcher’s Block by Dario, with signature cuts of beef curated by renowned Chef Cecchini, served alongside comforting, family-style sides. Art lovers will rejoice in Love by Britto, a boutique restaurant that pairs Romero Britto’s joyful décor with visually stunning

dishes that taste as good as they look. Seafood lovers will find their paradise at The Catch by Rudi, where the ocean’s bounty is transformed into everything from bisques to broils. Step into Umai Teppanyaki, where fire, flavor and flair come together in a sizzling show that delights the senses. Guest favorites, like Crown Grill steakhouse and Sabatini’s Italian Trattoria, have been reimagined, making them better than ever. On Star Princess and Sun Princess, dining isn’t just about the food, it’s about savoring the journey.

SM

SM

Princess has received the prestigious Wine Spectator Award of Excellence in the 2025 Restaurant Awards.

Dining rooms across all 16 ships, Including 15 main dining rooms and the Sanctuary Collection SM Restaurant on Sun Princess have been recognized for outstanding wine lists.

PLEASE CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS.

©2025, Princess Cruise Lines, Ltd. Princess®, MedallionClass® and the Princess logos are trademarks of Princess Cruise Lines, Ltd. or its affiliates. All rights reserved. Ships registered to Bermuda and United Kingdom.

Highclere Castle

CST# 2052644-40

Privileged Access®. Only with Viking.

With voyages designed for curious travelers, Viking opens doors to extraordinary places like Highclere Castle, the iconic filming location of Downton Abbey.

Please contact your Ensemble Travel Advisor to book Viking’s Privileged Access experiences.

The Countess of Carnarvon and Viking’s Karine Hagen at Highclere Castle

Viking Longship in Paris

Viking Egypt ship on the Nile River

What’s Inside

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF MOSCHINO (WATERMELON BAG); B. TANAKA/GETTY IMAGES (GOING PLACES).

Going Places

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From our Editorial Director

10

Contributors

In Brief

15 What’s new and notable in the world of travel.

Packing List

20 Fashion meets food with these tasty accessories.

Will Travel For

23 Chai and a side of samosa in Kolkata, India.

Interview

24 Bundjalung chef Mindy Woods dishes on the future of Indigenous culinary tourism in Australia.

On the Cover Crab’s out of the cage: Charles-Éric Boutet of Mon Lapin and La Lune is one of many chefs and restaurateurs putting Quebec’s surf, turf and more on the map.

Photo by Maude Chauvin

Roundup

26 Dive into the world’s liveliest fish markets.

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Where Next

A New Crop of Stars

30 With the Michelin Guide’s arrival in Quebec, a province with proud culinary roots asks whether it needs stars to shine.

In the Valley of the Sun

38 Tasting wine and pisco in Peru’s Ica region — where vineyards and dry desert landscapes make an unexpected pairing.

Where East Meets West

46 From massaman curry and pad thai to spätzle and pâté en croûte, chef-turned-photographer Simon Bajada maps the local and global flavors shaping Bangkok’s food scene.

Eat Like a Tahitian

54 A return to ancestral ingredients and age-old traditions is redefining island cooking across French Polynesia, from Tahiti to Raiatea and beyond.

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A Perfect Day In

66 Experience Madrid like a Madrileño or Madrileña, from the early morning to late at night.

Try This

73 Heli to lunch on a celeb chef’s farm in New Zealand.

Ask a Local

75 Riverside Luxury Cruises’ Cristian Mondaca serves up a behind-the-scenes look at dining on the water.

Port of Call

76 Everything you need to plan your pre- or post-cruise stay in Casablanca.

Outtake

80 One more moment in travel.

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PHOTOS: SIMON BAJADA (FEATURES); LOCALIZE/UNSPLASH (WHERE NEXT).

Features

Izumi Hibachi & Sushi SM

A FEAST FOR EVERY FOODIE

Bring your appetite for adventure — because every bite onboard is a flavor-filled journey. Indulge in bold, globally inspired eats from morning ’til midnight, whether you’re craving hand-rolled sushi at Izumi, intimate epicurean journeys at Chef’s Table, or whimsical culinary creations at Wonderland.

Savor Old-World classics at Giovanni’s SM Italian Kitchen or dig in to elevated ambiance at Empire Supper Club SM. And when the sun goes down, keep the cravings coming with tapas and cocktails under the stars. With so many crave-worthy options onboard, the hardest part is deciding where to feast next. Come Seek the Royal Caribbean ®.

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details or to book.

BEST CRUISE LINE AND IN THE CARIBBEAN OVERALL 22 YEARS RUNNING Travel Weekly Readers’ Choice Awards

All ship features, experiences are subject to change without notice. ©2025 Royal Caribbean Cruises Ltd. Ships’ registry: The Bahamas. 25021170 • 07/21/2025

Empire Supper Club SM

Giovanni’s SM Italian Kitchen

Chops Grille SM

2 Q U E E N S T R E E T E A S T 2 0 TH F L O O R TORONTO, ON M5C 2G7 EDITORIAL Editorial Director (on leave)

PROOFREADER Diane Carlson

Dominique Lamberton Acting Editorial Director

Andrew Elkin

PRODUCTION Senior Director, Brand & Marketing

Publisher

Jeff Willner President

Valerie Lenoir

Michael Johnson

Katie Sehl

Marketing Manager, Direct Mail & Range

Shahla Lalani

Senior Editor

Julia Maher

SVP, Operations

Printer

Kristina Boyce

Mi5

VP, Destination & Specialty

Photography Director

SALES Senior Director, Partnership Marketing & Engagement

Heather Nelson

Lori Morgan

Danielle Clement

Executive Editor

Robert Liwanag ART Creative Design Director

Stefanie Sosiak

CONTRIBUTORS Simon Bajada, Maude Chauvin, Elizabeth Chorney-Booth, Sadry Ghacir, Jessica Huras, Kevin Gascoyne, Ivy Lerner-Frank, Renée Morrison, Claire Sibonney

Senior Director, Partner Relations (Cruise)

SVP, Marketing

Ian Elliott VP, Hotel VP, Member Relations

Mark Stubbert

Rachel Grogan Director, Partnership Marketing (Land)

Franca Iuele

RESEARCHERS Tara Dupuis, Corinna Reeves

Senior Account Manager (Cruise)

COPY EDITOR Christopher Korchin

Manager, Partner Marketing & Engagement

Jocelyn Saldana

Nicole Baker

Read more Range online rangetravel.com

What is Ensemble?

Ensemble is a leading travel organization comprised of top-tier travel agencies throughout the U.S. and Canada. As a valued client of one of our member agencies, you gain access to exclusive perks, amenities and experiences as well as expert advice and exceptional customer service from the foremost authorities in the travel industry. ensembletravel.com

Range (Volume 11). All rights reserved, Ensemble Travel Ltd.

Sustainable Practices Range is printed and distributed with Mi5 Print and Digital, a sustainable business partner and Earth-friendly printing company. Range is printed on Inspira text and cover and is a 100-percent sustainable sourced product. All fiber is sourced under a zero-deforestation commitment, produced using materials from rapidly renewable tree plantations. Inspira is fully PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification, one of the world’s largest forest certification systems) chain of custody-certified.

No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise duplicated without the permission of the publisher. Range is published on behalf of Ensemble Travel Ltd. member agencies.

TICO: #50022140 | CST: 2141530-70 Registration numbers vary by agency.

Advertising and marketing inquiries can be sent to marketing@ensembletravel.com.

For editorial inquiries, please email range@ensembletravel.com.

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IN THE MEDITERRANEAN Authentic flavors of the ancient sea

PALERMO, ITALY

Delve into the rich cultural tapestry of the Mediterranean with S.A.L.T. Experiences and enjoy privileged access to local culinary traditions. On these highly curated Shore Excursions, you can learn the age-old art of wine-pairing at a historic vineyard in the Tuscan countryside. Discover time-honored cheese-making traditions in Mykonos, or explore Croatian cooking methods at a family estate in Dubrovnik. Here’s to uncovering the nuance of every sip, the heritage of every bite, and the hidden story of every flavor. To savoring the timeless and relishing the unknown. To Finding More.

Discover the Mediterranean Contact your Ensemble Travel Advisor for more details.

Created for FOODIES by FOODIES Food is at the heart of everything we do. Through travel and food, we learn about the world, creating connections and memories that last a lifetime. Travel and food open the door to new experiences and are the most amazing ways to celebrate the world — and the people around us.

“Travel and food are the ultimate ways of bringing people together – to savor unique flavors, experience different destinations and create shared memories.”

GIADA DE L AURENTIIS Oceania Cruises Culinary and Brand Ambassador

THE FINEST CUISINE AT SEA® AWARD-WINNING ITINERARIES SMALL SHIP LUXURY TM

PLEASE CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS.

PHOTO: NASKADEMINI.

Every Meal Tells a Story At home or abroad, what often leaves the deepest impression is the simple act of sitting down to break bread. When someone hands you a plate or passes a snack over the counter, they’re offering more than just food — they’re sharing a slice of everyday life, made with the same care they show to family and friends.

This, plus the fact that we slow down long enough to eat three times a day, helps to explain why travelers are devoting more time and effort (and allocating more of their vacation budget) to planning their meals. According to the 2025 Hilton Trends Report, nearly one in five people travel just to try new restaurants or culinary experiences, and half of global travelers make restaurant reservations before they even book their flights. That last statistic may surprise you, but it reflects smart planning: You can explore freely when you know exactly where — or from whom — you’re getting your next meal.

Hard-to-come-by restaurant reservations are another reason to plan meals so far in advance. This issue of Range magazine was created with that, plus those acts of planning and sharing, in mind. Let’s start with our cover story about Quebec, Canada, where newly awarded Michelin stars have sparked both celebration of and reflection on the province’s culinary identity (page 30). Shaped by four distinct seasons, the dining scene here reflects the warmth, creativity and abundance of quality ingredients that make Quebec a place that a few of us at Range are proud to call home. On the other side of the world, we track down some of the most sought-after tables in Bangkok (page 46), a city of 34 Michelin-starred restaurants and legendary food markets.

We transport you to another region marked by French influence (we might be onto something here), where a return to island-grown ingredients and traditional techniques is revitalizing the local food culture — a revival sure to flavor your next visit to French Polynesia (page 54). We also meet a Bundjalung chef (page 24) who’s using her notoriety and her cooking to shine a light on the diversity and history of First Nations culture in Australia.

Wherever we travel, food creates a human bond.

Restaurant dining is a communal ritual, and markets are sacred places where chefs, locals and visitors mingle with farmers and producers. And our next meal is just around the corner. 

Andrew Elkin Acting Editorial Director

We’re online!

Find more immersive content, plus expertly curated travel guides and exclusive offers, at rangetravel.com

@RangebyEnsemble

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Ivy Lerner-Frank

Jessica Huras

WRITER

WRITER

Hometown New Haven, Connecticut Home base Montreal, Quebec My next travel destination is Baie-Saint-Paul, Quebec, to see the Jardins de Quatre-Vents, and then to New Haven for a good clam pie at Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana, the O.G. I just came back from China and Japan, where my husband was on an experimental-music tour.

When I’m not writing for Range, I write about food, travel, music, books and people for The Gazette, The Globe and Mail, The Washington Post, The Infatuation and Culinary Historians of Canada, among others.

A New Crop of Stars — page 30

Sadry Ghacir P H OTO G R A P H E R Hometown Briançon, France Home base Bora Bora, French Polynesia The most delicious meal I’ve had on my travels was at a yakiniku-style restaurant in a lantern-lit alley near the Kamo River in Kyoto, where you can cook Kobe beef and Wagyu on a personal grill at your table.

When I’m not shooting for Range, I work as a photographer, videographer and drone pilot for luxury resorts in Bora Bora, capturing the island’s beauty and spirit through weddings, honeymoon sessions, cultural portraits and fashion shoots.

Eat Like a Tahitian — page 54

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Hometown London, Ontario Home base Toronto and Stratford, Ontario The place I can return to again and again is Japan. I taught English in Takayama after university and the country still has my heart. The food, the culture, the scenery — it’s the kind of place that stays with you.

When I’m not writing for Range, I cover Toronto’s restaurant scene for publications like Toronto Life and the Toronto Star. I also write about what’s on the table — and what’s in the glass — as an editor for the Liquor Control Board of Ontario’s Food & Drink magazine.

Eat Like a Tahitian — page 54

PHOTOS: RACHEL CHENG (IVY LERNER-FRANK); SADRY GHACIR, SELF-PORTRAIT; JORDI SÁEZ ( JESSICA HURAS).

Contributors

F I N A L LY, A VA C A T I O N W O R T H T H E C A L O R I E S Are you all about food and wine? If delicious eats and exceptional wines are a top priority on your vacation, we’ll be the perfect match. Our menus are globally inspired, locally sourced, and made fresh daily—most importantly, they’re really good. Our onboard sommeliers pour wines as exciting and diverse as the regions we visit. In fact, we’ve earned 118 Wine Spectator Awards of Excellence and 15 Best of Awards of Excellence—the most in the cruise industry.

With so many restaurants serving daring new dishes and classics done right, you’ll wish there were more meals in the day. But hey, who’s really counting?

When you plan your Celebrity cruise with your Ensemble travel advisor you can expect personalized service, experienced and knowledgeable travel experts and when booking a veranda or above enjoy an exclusive $100 onboard credit per stateroom.

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.

*Offer applies to 4-night and longer itineraries that depart Jan. 1st, 2025 through Open Deployment. Bookings must be made between Jan. 1st, 2025 and Dec. 31, 2025. Offer excludes Galapagos sailings. Onboard bookings made with Future Cruise Vacations combine with the Ensemble Xtra benefits. Offer is $100 Onboard credit “OBC” per stateroom for standard Verandas, Infinite Veranda, Concierge, AquaClass and Suites. Offers are applicable to new individual bookings and to staterooms in non-contracted group bookings, which must be named and deposited. Guests’ stateroom folios will be credited with an OBC. OBC has no cash value, is applicable to cruise only, non-transferable, not redeemable for cash, and will expire if not used by 10:00 PM on the final night of the cruise. Offer excludes interior and oceanview staterooms. Offer is not combinable with Exciting Deals, Net, TA Rates, Interline, or Galapagos sailings rates. Offer is combinable with prevailing group rates, group x, and onboard bookings. Single occupancy bookings are eligible for the Offer. Refer to Cruise Ticket Contract for additional terms and conditions. Celebrity reserves the right to cancel the Offer at any time, correct any errors, inaccuracies or omissions, and change or update fares, fees and surcharges at any time without prior notice. ©2025 Celebrity Cruises Inc. Ships’ registry: Malta and Ecuador. 1661651

You Deserve an Ensemble Experience

Upgrade your travels with Ensemble, a leading North American organization of top-tier travel agencies.

Enjoy access to exclusive perks, exceptional amenities and extraordinary experiences, on land and at sea.

CONNECT WITH YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR TODAY.

NOBODY DOES IT BETTER M

TM

UNLIMITED EXPLORATION 550+ Destinations. 8,000+ Shore Experiences.

Limitless Discoveries. Unforgettable Moments.

HEARTFELT HOSPITALITY™ Nearly One-to-One Crew-to-Guest Ratios.

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SPACIOUS ALL-SUITE SHIPS ™ Award Winning Small Ships. Luxurious Suites.

Stylish Elegance and Abundant Space.

EPICUREAN PERFECTION ™ Six Specialty Restaurants. Fine Wines & Spirits. Gourmet Culinary Experiences Aboard & Ashore.

THE MOST INCLUSIVE LUXURY EXPERIENCE

PLEASE CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS

®

TEXT: KATIE SEHL. PHOTO: COURTESY OF CAPITAL ONE LANDING.

GOING PLACES

IN THE AIR

Caviar in Concourse D If you’re arriving hungry, few places rival Singapore Changi Airport. Named the World’s Best Airport Dining Experience by Skytrax this year (for the eighth time), the hub is home to nearly 200 dining options, including the newly renovated hawker street with 10-plus stalls. At Ronald Reagan Washington National Airport, chef and humanitarian José Andrés reimagines airside dining with Capital One Landing, a lounge-restaurant hybrid serving caviar cones and gambas al ajillo from leather banquettes with power outlets and luggage nooks.

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IN BRIEF

CRUISE NEWS

Eat Your Way from Shore to Sea Cruise travelers can now get a better taste of Vienna and Budapest before or after they set sail. The cities are the latest destinations to pilot Ensemble’s Hotel Cruise Amenity Program, now available in eight cruise hubs including Miami, Seattle, Fort Lauderdale, Cape Canaveral, Amsterdam and Vancouver. The program turns pre-cruise layovers into part of the journey with hotel upgrades, complimentary breakfast and private port transfers — leaving guests free to linger in Vienna’s cafés or barhop through Budapest’s famed ruin pubs.

NOW OPEN

Earn Your Chops with Jamie Oliver Sizzling Souvlaki, Brilliant Bao and Next-level Gnocchi are just some of the classes on offer at the new Jamie Oliver Cookery School at John Lewis Oxford Street, the flagship location of the British department store.

Oliver and his team of chefs — joined by guests like “The Pie King” Calum Franklin and Ottolenghi Test Kitchen alum Noor Murad — run workshops ranging from one-hour tasters to full-day master classes, all in kitchens kitted out for up to 48 attendees.

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TEXT: KATIE SEHL. PHOTOS: HECKEPICS/GETTY IMAGES (BUDAPEST, CRUISE NEWS); COURTESY OF JAMIE OLIVER COOKERY SCHOOL (NOW OPEN).

GOING PLACES

GOING PLACES

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IN BRIEF

TEXT: KATIE SEHL. PHOTOS: COURTESTY OF KYSTEN RESTAURANT, HURTIGRUTEN (ON TREND); COURTESY OF MOON JUICE (TRAVEL SIZE); COURTESY OF SUSHI SHUNEI (NEW AND NOTEWORTHY).

ON TREND

Out with the Buffet Dining at sea is becoming a finer affair. A recent study in the Journal of Foodservice Business Research, based on cruise reviews, reveals a growing preference for gourmet over standard fare. Market research from PW Consulting points to rising demand for sustainable ingredients, health-conscious menus and experiential formats — like Explora Journeys’ Chef Invité series or Hurtigruten’s farm-to-galley Coastal Kitchen — as drivers of this trend. But upscale doesn’t always mean formal. Oceania Cruises’ Allura debuted in July with the semi-casual Crêperie, while Carnival is testing Express Dining aboard Carnival Vista: gourmet in under 45 minutes.

TRAVEL SIZE

Keep Your Electrolytes Lit From the makers of the relaxing Magnesi-Om powder, a key ingredient in the TikTok-famous sleepy girl mocktail (along with tart cherry juice and seltzer), Moon Juice’s Mini Dew is like a wake-up call for your brain. Available in a jar or single-serve sticks, the dissolvable drink mix packs potassium, calcium, magnesium and sodium into a watermelon- or pomelo-flavored punch (or unflavored), delivering the cognitive and hydrating boost you need to reboot after a red-eye or a day of sightseeing in the sun.

Mini Dew, US$44 (3.9-oz jar) — moonjuice.com

NEW AND NOTEWORTHY

Firsts for the Michelin Guide SUSHI SHUNEI Paris, France In March, Chizuko Kimura became the world’s first female sushi chef to earn a Michelin star, fulfilling a promise made to her late husband to carry on his legacy at their nine-seat, Edomaestyle restaurant at the base of Montmartre.

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MINIMAL Taichung, Taiwan Reservations are recommended for the seven-course tasting menu at the world’s only starred ice creamery, but anyone can get the scoop at the main-level parlor, where flavors may include pine-needle gelato or sake sorbet.

FZN DUBAI, UAE When FZN at Dubai’s Atlantis, The Palm, earned three Michelin stars in May, it clinched an exclusive trifecta for Sweden’s Björn Frantzén — three three-star restaurants.

The others? Frantzén in Stockholm and Zén in downtown Singapore.

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GOING PLACES

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IN BRIEF

WHAT’S NEW

The wood-fired oven at Casa Botín has never gone cold since it was first lit 300 years ago — a practice to prevent cracks, and one that’s helped the Madrid tavern secure the Guinness title as the world’s oldest restaurant. To qualify, a restaurant must prove continuous operation under the same name, location and purpose — criteria older eateries like Austria’s St. Peter Stiftskulinarium (803 CE) or Stockholm’s Zum Franziskaner (1421) can’t meet. But another Madrid tavern, Casa Pedro (1702), and Roman trattoria La Campana (1518), claim they have what it takes to usurp Botín. Even old ovens, it seems, can face new heat.

READING LIST

Worlds of Flavor A KITCHEN IN ITALY Mimi Thorisson A collection of 100 recipes rooted in simple Italian home cooking, all beloved by the author’s toughest critics: her children. Refined over years of living in Torino, dishes like summery zucchini spaghetti and hearty stuffed chicken make this a book for every season.

MY CAMBODIA Nite Yun Explore the bold, bright flavors of Khmer and Cambodian American cuisine through chef Nite Yun’s specialties like cha mee sou, a peppery stir-fry of glass noodles and yuba (tofu skin), or ngyom trayong jenk, her signature bananablossom salad that’s rarely left off her menus.

FUSÃO Ixta Belfrage From the mind behind Mezcla and co-author of Flavor, Fusão honors Ixta Belfrage’s Brazilian roots. Like its title, Portuguese for “fusion,” it blends Indigenous, Portuguese and West African beats in recipes like saucy moqueca fish burgers and chilled avocado soup.

LOCAL LINGO

Sgrìob dibhe If you’ve ever felt an anticipatory itch on your lip before a sip, you’ve experienced sgrìob dibhe — literally “drink itch” — a sensation only Gaelic speakers in Scotland have put into words. Since it’s from Scotland, home to the highest concentration of malt and grain distilleries in the world, the phrase has come to be associated with whisky. The twinge felt before a kiss? That’s sgrìob poige. Dram or snog, the Scots know: The best things start with a tingle.

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TEXT: KATIE SEHL. PHOTOS: LITTLE VALLEYS/ALAMY (WHAT’S NEW); COURTESY OF SIMON & SCHUSTER (FUSÃO, READING LIST); GETTY IMAGES FOR UNSPLASH+ (LOCAL LINGO).

Old Flames, New Claims

Embark on a sensory journey Dive into the wonderful world of dining excellence with elevated experiences at every corner onboard our newest ship, Norwegian Aqua™. With 20+ incredible dining options to choose from, you can set sail on a culinary journey every night. Delight in a fusion of returning award-winners like Cagney’s Steakhouse and brand-new concepts like Sukhothai — our modern Thai restaurant serving authentic flavors made from the finest ingredients. Come aboard for a discovery of gastronomic proportions on the all-new Norwegian Aqua.

Contact your Ensemble travel advisor to book your cruise with Norwegian today!

Palomar Wine List

©2025 NCL Corporation Ltd. Ships’ Registry: Bahamas and USA 2504800 07/25

2023 – 2025 Award of Excellence

Swirl Wine Bar

Indulge Food Hall

Norwegian Aqua

GOING PLACES

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PACKING LIST

Fancy Feast

20

Bow Tie

Comb

Dopp Kit

Adorned with an array of Bloody Mary garnishes, this tie both skewers conventional style and hints at tomorrow morning’s drink order.

Breakfast Salad Bow Tie, US$63 knottytie.com

This handmade, hand-painted and easy-to-stash comb will keep hair tangle-free on the go, whether you wear yours in a bun or not.

Hot Dog Comb, US$28 jennylemons.com

Baggu’s recycled-nylon toiletry kits are compact yet spacious enough to hold all the essentials you need to look (and feel) fresh on the fly.

Orange Tree Toiletry Bag, US$32 baggu.com

Socks

Power Bank

Drink Floatie

Keep your feet cozy while showing your love for seafood and sushi with these 80-percent cotton mid-calf socks (also available in a bundle with three other fishy designs).

Fish Dinner Socks, US$10 sockfly.com

Charge into even the most audacious itinerary with this portable battery that comes in three charging capacities.

Ciao Magnetic Power Bank in gold, from US$100 burga.com

Use this inflatable (and oh-so-packable) drink float to save your refreshing bevvy from a watery demise. On a hot day in the pool, it could be a lifesaver.

Pineapple Cup Holder, US$3 flyingtiger.com

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TEXT: ANDREW ELKIN.

Add flavor to your travels with these culinary-inspired accessories.

GOING PLACES

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PACKING LIST

Watermelon Clutch Be the paragon of good taste with this fruit-forward handbag. Its silicone-injected raised surfaces mimic the look and feel of a freshly sliced wedge.

Watermelon Bag, US$1,415 moschino.com

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Why cruise when you can Cunard

®

From Michelin-starred chefs to martinis made with our own house vermouth, dining on a Cunard® Queen is a journey of its own. Discover artisanal ingredients and creative interpretations of classic world cuisines. With the finest bars and restaurants at sea, this is an experience your taste buds will never forget.

Panama Canal

Iceland with Michel Roux

Alaska

20 nights w Miami to Seattle April 14, 2026 w Q611 Balcony Fares from US$5,525*

14 nights w Roundtrip London July 26, 2026 w H619 Balcony Fares from US$3,927*

7 nights w Roundtrip Seattle August 20, 2026 w Q623 Balcony Fares from US$2,175*

These voyages include an Ensemble Hosted Cruise with a complimentary shore experience, traveler cocktail party, and the company of a gracious onboard host. *Fares are based on category Balcony BE on a space-available basis at time of booking. Fares for other dates may vary. Fares are per person, non-air, cruise-only, based on double occupancy, and apply to the first two guests in a stateroom. These fares do not apply to singles or third/fourth-berth guests. This offer is capacity controlled and may not be combinable with any other public, group, or past guest discount, including onboard credits. Offer is not transferable and is available to residents of the 50 United States, Canada, Puerto Rico, Mexico, and the District of Columbia who are 21 years of age or older and receive this offer. Fares quoted in U.S. dollars. Please refer to your Travel Advisor for terms, conditions, and definitions that apply to all bookings. Offer may combine with other offers such as group Onboard Credit, limited-time offers, and Military benefits. © 2025 Carnival plc. Ships’ Registry: Bermuda. The Cunard logo and logotype, Queen Mary 2, Queen Victoria, Queen Elizabeth, and Queen Anne are registered trademarks of Carnival plc, an English company trading as Cunard. All rights reserved in the United States and other countries.

Please contact your Ensemble Travel Advisor for complete details.

GOING PLACES

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WILL TRAVEL FOR

KOLKATA, INDIA

Streetside Chai A career tea taster and buyer, and co-author of Tea: History, Terroirs, Varieties, shares his perfect morning cup.

PHOTO: LANKUR MONDAL/GETTY IMAGES.

B y K e v i n G a s c oy n e

Before the heat, dust and chaos stir in Kolkata, I stand on quiet Russel Street with a cup of chai and a fresh samosa on a light steel plate. This is how I start my workday as a tea taster and buyer when I’m in India’s tea capital.

This roadside food stall, or dhaba, has been in the same spot for several generations. The same chai maker has served me with a smile for more than three decades. The minutiae of timing, blending and serving a perfect cup are his world.

He fuses strong and malty Assam tea with rich, full-fat buffalo milk, sugar and the secret addition of a little ghee. The chai is hearty, well-balanced human fuel with caffeine, L-theanine, milk fat and glucose, served in unfired cups hand-molded from riverside clay and hardened in the sun.

Another early-bird client turns up; we nod and smile sleepily, not yet ready for talk.

As I finish my cup, the earthy interior starts to dissolve a little, so I leave the last, gritty sip and smash the vessel into a barrel with a dull “pock.” This old-school cyclical environmentalism pleases me no end.

The pairing of creamy-sweet chai and salty-spicy samosa not only awakens my senses, it provides a delicious balance. As I contemplate my deep connection to the city, I soak up the flavor and feeling of this ubiquitous Indian breakfast. 

The cup

Side order

Where to try it

With single-use plastic banned and cheap paper impractical for hot beverages, handmade, biodegradable clay cups (bhar) remain a staple all over India.

Hot out of the pan and light in oil, this vegetable samosa’s crisp outer shell, seductive layer of pastry and filling of spicy curried fresh vegetables melt in the mouth.

Russel Punjabi Dhaba 99 Russel Street Kolkata, West Bengal

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INTERVIEW

PHOTO: COURTESY OF MINDY WOODS.

GOING PLACES

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GOING PLACES

Mindy Woods

INTERVIEW

Q&A

From MasterChef Australia finalist to this year’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants Champion of Change, Mindy Woods is shaping the future of Indigenous culinary tourism — one meal at a time.

By K atie Sehl

“J

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Range How does your Bundjalung heritage shape your identity and purpose?

Mindy Woods As a First Nations woman, my ancestry is interconnected with my identity. We are a matrilineal people, so we take our lineage from our mothers and grandmothers. We don’t own country: We belong to her like we belong to a mother. She looks after us and feeds us, and it’s our duty and responsibility to take care of her. Food is such a powerful and important part of that.

R What sparked the shift from your restaurant to Karkalla on Country?

MW I needed to go beyond a brick-and-mortar business, because my culture doesn’t exist within four walls. It lives and breathes on country. Karkalla on Country gives people an opportunity to walk through a native food forest — to be able to smell, taste and feel the foods that grow here. My clan and elders come along and we talk through art, song, language and food. It’s complete cultural immersion.

ingella, you mob! It’s Mindy Woods, your native food queen.” If you follow the sunny, spirited chef on Instagram, you already know what follows: something ancient, wild, delicious — and straight from Bundjalung Country, a land of six seasons that stretches from Australia’s east coast to the McPherson Range, between the Logan and Clarence rivers in northern New South Wales. “The region is famous for a trendy beach town called Byron Bay, but it’s not just a trendy beach town,” she says. “This is a place with cultural roots dating back 65,000 years.”

For Woods, cultivating those roots is both a literal and ancestral calling. A proud member of the Widjabul Wia-bal clan and the first queer Indigenous woman on MasterChef Australia, the Bundjalung chef need only step out the front door of her beach house to harvest the finger limes (gulalung), lemon myrtle (dalagan), wattleseed (minga) and other bush foods that turn up in recipes like kangaroo massaman curry pot pie or dal with native tarka. She named her first restaurant Karkalla after the humble coastal succulent her nan once used to soothe sunburns. With her latest venture, an immersive culinary and cultural experience called Karkalla on Country, she invites guests deeper into the Bundjalung story.

R With demand rising for First Nations experiences in Australia, how should the tourism industry evolve?

MW It’s important that the market be Indigenous led.

A lot of people don’t realize the uniqueness of our 250 Aboriginal nations. Many, including Australians, have the perception that First Nations people in the country are one homogeneous group — but of course we’re not. Across the continent, we are as rich and diverse as all the countries that form the European Union. So it’s important to make sure that each individual tribal group has representation.

R How can tourists be better guests when engaging with living traditions and sacred spaces?

MW Travel with an open heart and spirit. Be curious, but also be a conscious traveler. Try to leave any preconceived notions or stereotypes that you may have at home — don’t pack them in your suitcase.

R How does food influence your travels?

MW Food and travel are just inseparable for me. I go to eat. The first place I visit is always a local market. I like to get a sense of the food, the people and their reverence and respect for local seasonal ingredients.  Read the full interview at rangetravel.com.

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GOING PLACES

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ROUNDUP

Fish on the Fly At these markets, selling seafood means serving culture — loud, proud and raw.

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PANAMA CITY, PANAMA

TOKYO, JAPAN

Mercado de Mariscos

Tsukiji Outer Market

As a country best known for its canal, it’s no surprise Panama’s capital is home to a market worthy of its waterway renown. The best way to whet your palate at this two-level complex — a short stroll from the historic Casco Viejo neighborhood — is with a cup of Panamanian ceviche, a spicy and citrusy mix of fresh catch, often corvina (sea bass), pargo (red snapper) or camarón (shrimp). Then cast your eyes — and appetite — over the main-floor fisheries with the aim of reeling in a mahi-mahi, cod, lobster or octopus to have cooked at one of the restaurants upstairs.

Once the world’s largest seafood market, Tsukiji shed a few pounds in 2018 when its wholesale operations relocated to Toyosu in Tokyo Bay, where a recordbreaking 612-pound bluefin tuna sold for $3.1 million the following year. While the auction action now takes place at the new site, many vendors from the original market remain, among them tamagoyaki maker Shouro, green tea and seaweed supplier Jugetsudo, and samurai-sword-meets-knife maker Sugimoto.

Of course, there’s fish, too, from omakase at Sushi Dai to scallop ramen at Tomizuru.

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PHOTOS: EDWIN REMSBERG/ALAMY (PANAMA); B. TANAKA/GETTY IMAGES ( JAPAN).

By K atie Sehl

PHOTOS: FRANKIE LOPEZ/UNSPLASH (UNITED STATES); LOLA AKINMADE ÅKERSTRÖM/GEOTRAVELER MEDIA (SWEDEN).

GOING PLACES

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ROUNDUP

SEATTLE, UNITED STATES

GOTHENBURG, SWEDEN

Pike Place Fish Market

Feskekörka

“Caution: Low Flying Fish” reads the sign as you approach this famed seafood shop where orange overall-clad fishmongers sling and sing orders like “Coho for Yoko” and “Black cod for Cho” across counters. Flying fish and cheeky customer service may be the draw here, but the market’s commitment to fresh, ethical and sustainable hauls of Copper River salmon, wild halibut and Dungeness crab are what keep shoppers coming back. That, and the nearby bronze-cast, life-size Rachel the Piggy Bank, which collects donations for the market’s foundation.

No, this neo-Gothic building completed by city architect Victor von Gegerfelt in 1874 is technically not a place of worship. However, its Norse staves, arched windows and open nave earned it the nickname “Fish Church,” and so it was ordained “Feskekörka.”

After a four-year renovation, the market reopened in May 2024 with 130-foot-long sales counters, three restaurants and a bar where schnapps — the local spirit of choice — is on tap. When the sun shines, patrons fill the pews of the outdoor Pråmenaden, a floating barge-like terrace in the Rosenlund Canal.

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AVALON IS FOR

WINE LOVERS A JUG OF WINE, A LOAF OF BREAD, AND THOU! Avalon has the wine and menus, so all we need is you to join us on a wine-lovers European river cruise! Whether you have a nose for the perfect Burgundy, or if everything you know about wine could fit in a thimbleful of Chardonnay, you’re invited to join us to sniff, swirl, and sip your way through Europe’s legendary and picturesque vineyards. In vino veritas!

WINE-THEMED SAILINGS IN 2026 Danube Dreams for Wine Lovers (Westbound) • Burgundy & Provence for Wine Lovers (Southbound) The Rhine & Moselle: Canals, Vineyards & Castles for Wine Lovers • The Rhine & Moselle for Wine Lovers Rhine & Rhône Revealed for Wine Lovers (Southbound) • Grand France for Wine Lovers (Southbound)

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.

Smaller Groups.

Magnified Moments.

INTRODUCING GLOBUS SMALL GROUP DISCOVERY TOURS We’ve got a tour style specifically designed for those who crave the intimacy of small group travel yet want worldwide experiences in epic proportions! Designed specifically for small groups, these tours offer unique accommodations, exclusive excursions, and special access worldwide. With an average group size of 15 (18 outside Europe), Globus Small Group Discovery tours provide more freedom, flexibility, and room to roam.

Prepare a Tuscan meal during a private cooking class at a local farm. —ENCHANTING ITALY Visit a family-owned olive oil farm in Kalamata. —LEGENDARY GREECE Enjoy a wine tasting at a local estate in the French Riviera. —PARIS & PROVENCE Enjoy an authentic Spanish lunch with a traditional recipe of Paella Valenciana. —CAPTIVATING SPAIN

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.

A New Crop of Stars

PHOTO: EMILE DESROCHESL.

B y I v y L e r n e r - F ra n k

Amid the glow of Quebec’s new Michelin stars, the province’s deep culinary roots shine through.

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atrice Demers and Marie-Josée Beaudoin are all smiles when guests arrive at Sabayon, their 14-seat restaurant in the working-class Pointe-Saint-Charles neighborhood they call home in Montreal. “We really are happy to see you,” says Beaudoin, the sommelière and welcoming front-of-house presence. The couple knows how hard it is to nab a reservation for their tasting menu or afternoon tea: Be ready the first Wednesday of the month, log in before noon, refresh on repeat, and when all spots vanish in under 20 seconds, hope for next time. “People wait

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months to be here,” says Beaudoin. “They deserve their perfect night.”

The wait for a table has been long since Sabayon opened in August 2023, but it became even longer this May when the restaurant earned one of the province’s first Michelin stars. “It used to be just people from Montreal, Laval or Quebec City,” says Beaudoin. “Now it’s Boston, Washington, New York, Puerto Rico and Los Angeles.” The same goes for Tanière 3 — a restaurant in Quebec City awarded two Michelin stars — as well as the province’s seven other one-star spots, three

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Green Star, 17 Bib Gourmand and 76 Michelinrecommended establishments.

With Michelin’s arrival, the secret about the province’s vast culinary landscape — if it was a secret — is now officially out. “We always knew something extraordinary was happening here and it wasn’t getting the recognition that was warranted,” says Geneviève Vézina-Montplaisir, co-founder of Caribou, a Montreal-based magazine that’s covered Quebec’s food culture for the past decade. Almost half of all organic farms in Canada are found here, summer u-pick season is embraced

PHOTOS: MICKAËL A. BANDASSAK.

At Sabayon, an ode to orange starring Îles-dela-Madeleine scallops; chef Patrice Demers often tends the tiny kitchen solo; at Mon Lapin, co-owners and sommeliers Vanya Filipovic and Alex Landry let their noses do the talking; snow crab with bisque-soaked toast and marrow.

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OPENING SPREAD

PHOTOS: MAUDE CHAUVIN (LEFT); DOMINIQUE LAFOND (RIGHT).

Overlooking Lake Memphremagog in Quebec’s Eastern Townships, Parcelles farms vegetables for its own pastoral outpost and other top spots like Alma, La Lune and Mastard. The farmhouse restaurant, run by Dominic Labelle, was recommended in this year’s Michelin Guide.

with enthusiasm, and canning and preserving parties bring together people of all ages and backgrounds. “Here, it’s really about our land and our territoire,” says Vézina-Montplaisir.

Terroir, the imprint of territoire on flavor, defines the culinary landscape far beyond the poutine- and maple syrup-themed para­­ phernalia found in downtown souvenir shops. Chefs like Demers and Simon Mathys, chef and co-owner of Montreal’s one-Michelin-starred Mastard, draw from the St. Lawrence River’s bounty, more than 1,900 miles of coastline, and a boreal forest

twice the size of France — within a region marked by seasonal extremes and Arctic, maritime and humid continental climates. In search of local eel, Mathys has even waded into the frigid St. Lawrence River’s waters to try his hand at wrangling alongside eelers from his supplier, Les Trésors du Fleuve. “It’s a great Quebec product. I love making a bouillon with it or putting smoked eel on top of vegetables as a condiment,” he says. “But it was pretty cold pulling them out of the traps.”

“We think of seasons and ingredients all the time,” says Marc-Olivier Frappier, who

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leads the Michelin-recommended kitchen of Montreal’s convivial Mon Lapin with Jessica Noël (catch their smoked-eel carbonara in the fall if you’re lucky). The chic Little Italy eatery, known for its daily menu and local focus, held the number-one spot on Canada’s 100 Best restaurant list in 2023 and 2024. On the menu, snow crab with a buckwheat sabayon may herald spring’s arrival, while a rhubarb sorbet celebrates May. In the depths of winter, the chefs serve comforting lamb neck with borlotti beans, followed by quince pie made with fruit preserved since the fall harvest.

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CANADA

THIS SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT

Nostalgic for Quebec’s rotisserie-chicken tradition — kept alive by a few remaining institutions like the wood-paneled Chalet Bar-B-Q and the ubiquitous St-Hubert chain — Frappier, Noël and their three partners opened La Lune down the street last December. Along with spit-roasted chicken and silky, flavorful guinea fowl — a Quebec specialty — the restaurant’s signature takes on classic dishes and sides like coleslaw and fries earned it a nod in Michelin’s Bib Gourmand. For dessert, strawberry sundaes and homemade maple sandwich cookies channel diner vibes with a Quebecois twist.

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In the riverside village of Kamouraska, famous for its steep monadnocks (rock hills) and riverine patchwork of farmland, Côté Est co-owner Perle Morency draws from generations of regional knowledge to shape her kitchen’s identity. “The Bas-Saint-Laurent is the cradle of Quebec cuisine,” she says. “We use age-old preservation techniques — salting herbs or smoking fish, for example — to make dishes that feel current.” Spring rolls are stuffed with minced pork, like her grandmother’s, and native surf clams, a seafood that wasn’t fished in the St. Lawrence until recently.

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They’re served with a bright plum jam that cuts through the richness like a sweet memory — preserved the old way, plated anew.

Along the banks of the St. Lawrence, toward the Gaspé Peninsula, the Nordic-style gardens at the Jardins de Métis are the kitchen playground of Frédérick Boucher. Named a 2023 Chef of the Year finalist by Les Lauriers de la Gastronomie Québécoise, Quebec’s province­ wide culinary awards, Boucher grew up in Price, on the Mitis River — a place that called him home after years cooking in France. In his kitchen, he celebrates what the environment

PHOTOS: PHILIPPE RICHELET.

Once an open secret, Mastard’s seasonal lettuce tart with herb sauce has become a signature dish; chef Simon Mathys in his newly starred Rosemont dining room; golden rotisserie chicken, crispy fries and a deep respect for heritage are all part of La Lune’s secret sauce.

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À la Carte

The ingredients inspiring the province’s most inventive dishes.

WILD CARAWAY SEEDS Gaspésie Sauvage, Douglastown Also known as meridian fennel, these aromatic seeds are prized for their peppery and anise-tinged flavor.

“I’m crazy about them,” says Sabayon chef Patrice Demers. “I infuse them in caramel for a chocolate dessert with pecans.”

BLACK BELUGA LENTILS Nature Highland, Baie-des-Sables “Our delicious little black beluga lentils from Gaspé hold their own against French Puy lentils,” says Côté Est’s Perle Morency.

On the menu, they may be paired with traditional local salted herbs, wild boar, guinea fowl or seal.

PHOTO: DOMINIQUE LAFOND.

GOLDEN RASPBERRIES Ferme Bourdelais, Lavaltrie Only available for about a week in the summer, these soft and sweet berries are a perennial favorite in the kitchen at Mon Lapin.

“We like to showcase them very simply, either as a mignardise or a garnish in our mille-fleurs de courgettes,” says chef Jessica Noël.

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CANADA

WILD YELLOW STURGEON CAVIAR Pêcherie Sainte-Angèle, Bécancour Sourced from a family-run project that holds one of Canada’s few wild lake sturgeon permits, this goldhued caviar adorns Alma’s zucchini flower and morel taco. “The brininess really complements the earthy and creamy components of the dish,” says Alma’s co-owner Lindsay Brennan.

MELILOT (SWEET CLOVER) Gourmet Sauvage, Mont-Blanc “When I’m baking, I love using sweet clover essence as a substitute for vanilla,” says Caribou magazine co-founder Geneviève Vézina-Montplaisir. “Its unique fragrance is a standout in all my recipes, including crêpes.”

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PHOTO: EMILE DESROCHESL.

HAKUREI TURNIPS Parcelles, Austin Chef and farmer Dominic Labelle supplies these white turnips to some of Montreal’s top restaurants, as well as to his own awardwinning kitchen in the Eastern Townships. “In our climate, they’re one of the first crops to appear — and you can keep growing them throughout the season,” Labelle says.

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CANADA

THIS SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT

PHOTOS: TWO FOOD PHOTOGRAPHERS.

At Parcelles, the duck pen is moved to a fresh patch of grass each day to enhance flavor — just ask Tata the cat. Chef Juan Lopez Luna outside his Outremont restaurant, Alma; Mextlapique (a traditional corn-husked Mexican dish) meets Quebec lobster and sea urchin butter.

offers by cooking with garden-grown flowers and herbs, working with local foragers and sourcing fish exclusively from the St. Lawrence.

“I came back because I was familiar with the boreal forest, the maple and the diversity of seafood here — it’s what’s made us succeed in creating our own cultural identity,” he says.

Seafood also anchors the nine-course Mar y Montaña tasting menu at Alma, an intimate, 20-seat Mexican restaurant in Montreal’s stately, mostly residential, Outremont neighborhood. “You don’t have to serve French cuisine to highlight Quebec ingredients,”

says Lindsay Brennan, sommelière, wine importer and life and business partner of chef Juan Lopez Luna. While rooted in the golden ancestral corn of Lopez Luna’s birthplace, Tlaxcala, Mexico, his cuisine is also influenced by the forests and cold waters of Quebec. As they explain on their website, “Alma sits at the intersection of these two halves — where they meet and come together. This isn’t a fusion.

It’s a marriage.” This union won the couple the Culinaria Mexicana award for best Mexican restaurant outside of Mexico in 2025, along with a wave of new international visitors.

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From river eel to native surf clams and plum jam, Quebec’s chefs have known the ingredients for greatness have been here all along. You just have to wait for the right season to try them all. “People ask me when they should visit Montreal, and I ask them, ‘What do you love?’” says Mon Lapin and La Lune’s Marc-Olivier Frappier. “Come in April for seafood season. But if you’ve never experienced the cold, come in February — it will be just as crowded in the restaurant as in July.” Or better yet, come often, because here, every season has its feast. 

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By Elizabeth Chorney-Booth

Peru’s Ica region is one of the driest places on the planet — and it makes some of the country’s finest wine and pisco.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF VIÑAS QUEIROLO.

PERU

In the Valley of the Sun

PERU

“V

iva la vida!” The words gleefully ring out from the passenger behind me as the dune buggy I’m strapped into careens over the crest of a sand dune in Peru’s Paracas National Reserve, on the coast about 165 miles south of Lima.

The driver takes a sharp turn, races up another wall of sand (the dunes can grow five storeys tall) and we come back down even faster. It’s like being on a roller coaster without a track — I feel equal parts terrified and absolutely free.

The man behind me is my guide, Richard Gilberto Ccahua Gutierrez of Sun Gate Tours, a (usually) calm native Peruvian who has seen these hills countless times. Yet even he can’t contain his joy. While the thrill of the ride is undeniable, it’s the landscape that leaves me breathless. The Ica region is one of the driest places on Earth: Towering mounds of pale beige, ultra-fine sand ripple as far as the eye can see. There are no other people around, no animals — even the

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tracks of our dune buggy vanish instantly on these drifting tan hills.

It’s hard to imagine how anything, animal or vegetable, could survive in this environment. But plants don’t just grow in Ica, they thrive and even explode with bounty — grapes, asparagus, blueberries, avocados and more — thanks to the Ica-Villacurí aquifer, one of the largest natural subterranean reservoirs in the country. Add in an irrigation canal that diverts water from the nearby Ica River and Laguna de Choclococha, the ever-present sunshine (340 days per year) and sandy, fertile soils with excellent drainage, and you’ve got all a region needs to flourish. Peru’s wine country, where vast vineyards and groves of pecan trees provide a different kind of vista, is just a short drive away.

I witness an expression of Ica’s dual nature as the sun sets and the stars rise high in the sky over the desert. We’ve come to a luxe tent set up with a

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PERU

THIS SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT The Paracas National Reserve spans nearly 1,300 square miles of desert and marine ecosystem on Peru’s Pacific coast. Visitors can take part in wildlife spotting and kite surfing on the ocean and wild buggy rides across the towering dunes; Viñas Queirolo tends more than 1,700 acres of vineyards for wine and pisco production in the rugged, arid terrain of the Ica Valley.

PHOTOS: WIRESTOCK/GETTY IMAGES (PARACAS NATIONAL RESERVE); COURTESY OF VIÑAS QUEIROLO (VINEYARD).

OPENING SPREAD ​​The grapes from these Ica Valley vineyards go into Viñas Queirolo’s Intipalka wines. The vineyards are at the 14th parallel, much closer to the equator than the typical 30 to 50 degrees of latitude where wine grapes thrive. Intipalka means “valley of the sun” in the Quechua language.

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PERU

THIS SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT Viñas Tacama sits on the site where the first grapevines in South America were planted in 1540, and its bell tower dates back to the property’s time as a 19th-century convent; the Paracas Candelabra, a prehistoric geoglyph 560 feet tall and 200 feet wide, is best viewed from offshore.

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PHOTOS: MARK/ADOBE STOCK (VIÑAS TACAMA); DOF/GETTY IMAGES (PARACAS CANDELABRA).

PERU

bar, disco lights and an impeccably set table where we dine on Peruvian specialties like causa (a sort of mashed-potato casserole topped with seafood) and golden roast chicken seasoned with aji amarillo peppers and garlic. We wash it all down with local wines and Peru’s national drink, the pisco sour.

Though it’s far less traveled to than glamorous Lima — a global culinary destination — or Machu Picchu — for the spiritual highs ­— tourists often dip into the Ica region for a day trip to fly over the Nazca Lines, a series of mysterious geoglyphs etched into the desert landscape farther south. And while Peru’s wine industry doesn’t have the reach of those in Argentina or Chile, visitors find in Ica an unsung viticultural region where the number of wineries and the quality of their product are enough to suit any palate — and wine enthusiasts are paying increasing attention.

The bounty of the Ica Valley can be fully experienced at Hotel Viñas Queirolo just outside the city of Ica, about an hour’s drive from the coast. It’s a

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luxurious resort hotel with a full restaurant, three photogenic pools, serene rooms with balconies looking over endless rows of vines, and a winery producing the wines of both the Santiago Queirolo and Intipalka labels, which are distributed widely across Peru. The Peruvian market favors sweeter wines (Queirolo’s eponymous label focuses on this traditional style), but the Intipalka bottlings are dry, with a refreshing acidity. Ica’s sandy soil forces the vines to dig deeper into the earth in search of nutrients and moisture. That, combined with ample sun and cool winds coming off the ocean, makes for impressively complex wines with bold fruit and mineral flavors. At lunch in the hotel’s restaurant, El Intipalka, our server opens a bottle of the estate’s refined Gran Reserva No. 1 red — a blend of malbec, tannat and cabernet sauvignon grapes.

The wine’s ripe fruit and firm tannins are a perfect expression of Intipalka — “the valley of the sun.”

“Winemaking in South America began when the first Spaniard conquerors arrived in the 1500s. They

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PERU

THIS SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT The tiny oasis of Huacachina is surrounded by dunes on the outskirts of Ica; the Ica region’s best-known product is pisco, which is aged in terracotta jars to enhance its flavor and aroma.

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PHOTOS: IAMCU4TRO/GETTY IMAGES (HUACACHINA); COURTESY OF VIÑAS QUEIROLO (PISCO JARS).

PERU

needed wine for their Catholic ceremonies,” Erick Figueroa, Viñas Queirolo’s export manager, tells me.

“Right now, Peru is not well known as a wine-making region — that’s what we’re trying to change.”

Though Peruvian wines still fly under the radar both internationally and within Peru itself, Ica claims South America’s oldest vineyard, Viña Tacama, established in the 1540s. And Ica is the beating heart of Peru’s wine scene, with more than 100 wineries calling the region home — one-third of the nation’s winemakers.

Ica’s other grape product, pisco, has a much higher profile. All over Peru, from Ica’s sandy vineyards to the wilds of the Amazon rainforest, I’m offered (and gladly accept) a pisco sour. A brandy made from distilled wine, pisco is serious business in Peru and Ica is ground zero for its production. (It’s also home to the city of Pisco). Four distinct qualities of the spirit — puro, aromáticas, acholado and mosto verde — are defined by the grape varieties and methods used in its production. Pisco can be served neat but is often

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blended with simple syrup, lime juice, egg white and bitters for a regional take on a classic cocktail.

There is a Pisco Trail in Ica for tourists who want to go all-in, but most wineries also make a pisco. As I make my way through a tasting on Viña Tacama’s vine-canopied patio, I learn how to appreciate differences between pisco puro (made from a single grape variety), pisco acholado (blended from more than one grape variety) and pisco mosto verde (premium pisco created through a complex distilling method), and pick out the wine-like aromatic notes normally obscured by the lime in the cocktail. Paired with chocotejas — bonbons filled with nuts, dulce de leche or guava — from Helena Chocolatier, a popular Ica chocolate maker, and a piece of pie packed with locally grown pecans, the taste of place becomes clear.

As I sip contentedly, my mind wanders back to the nearby dunes and the sand that pelted my face. Under a cloudless sky in one of the driest places on Earth, the flavors of Ica taste that much sweeter. 

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Where East

P h o t o s by S i m o n B a j a d a — Wo r d s by R o b e r t L i w a n a g

In the heart of Bangkok, a new wave of restaurants is redefining haute cuisine — uniting modern sensibilities and deep-rooted traditions on the plate.

Meets West

BANGKOK

BANGKOK

F

or many devoted food lovers, Bangkok is more than a destination — it’s a pilgrimage. The birthplace of pad thai, massaman curry and numerous other beloved dishes, the city’s appetite is contagious. Day and night, hawkers steam, grill, mix, fry and flip everything from seafood rice-porridge and papaya salad to fishball noodles and crab omelets. The first time Australian-born, Sweden-based photographer and former chef Simon Bajada visited Bangkok was for his honeymoon in 2006. In many ways, the capital remains unchanged today: The heat still hits like a wall, the locals are as welcoming as ever and energy radiates from

every street corner. But Bangkok’s restaurant scene? That’s a different story. “When you go to Thailand, you go wanting and expecting great Thai food, but there’s also a surge in specialty businesses,” says Bajada. “It’s like people are seeing what’s popular around the world and thinking, ‘Hey, we can do that here too.’” The evolution Bajada describes also includes the growing number of expats setting up shop in Bangkok, fine-tuning their own cuisines to suit local tastes.

More often than not, this new wave of chefs — local and foreign alike — has won over Bangkok’s epicureans, helping to shape a culinary scene that has never felt bolder.

O P E N I N G S P R E A D A N D A B OV E

Bangkok thrives on diversity — food-stall fare garners as much devotion as langoustine with morels. Just 15 minutes from downtown Bangkok, Or Tor Kor Market overflows with vegetables, curries and neighborhood chatter.

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BANGKOK

SORN

Turn down an alleyway in Khlong Toei — a district known for its mix of luxury high-rises and working-class neighborhoods — and step into a lush garden to discover one of the most elusive reservations in Asia. The tranquil setting is a sharp contrast to what arrives on the plate. At Thailand’s first three-Michelin-starred restaurant, chef Supaksorn “Ice” Jongsiri lets spice take center stage.

“He’s from southern Thailand, and one of the most difficult things for him is bringing the heat down,” laughs Bajada. “It’s a hoot — the dishes get hotter and hotter, and the entire table feels it.”

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BANGKOK

R E STAU R A N T S Ü H R I N G

In Bangkok’s leafy, upscale Chong Nonsi neighborhood, twin chefs Mathias and Thomas Sühring serve up unapologetically authentic German fare, such as spätzle with winter truffle, pâté en croûte of deer, boar, pheasant and duck liver, and a selection of German wines. “It’s not unlike a fine-dining experience in Berlin or Munich,” says Bajada. “It doesn’t feel like you are in Thailand until you look out of the window.” One dish not to miss: labskaus, a northern German corned-beef classic, reimagined with Ossetra caviar.

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BANGKOK

P OTO N G

Storytelling is woven into every detail at chef Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij’s Michelin-starred Chinese-Thai restaurant. It’s tucked inside a narrow, five-storey Sino-Portuguese building in Bangkok’s Chinatown that her family has owned for four generations. The evening begins with an overview of the property on the first floor and a glass of wine on the fifth, before diners are ushered to their table. The staff offer insights into each dish, including the signature 14-day dry-aged duck. Much of the interior has been preserved, right down to the original Portuguese floor tiles.

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BANGKOK

CÔT E BY M AU R O CO L AGR E CO

At Mauro Colagreco’s season-driven outpost, head chef Davide Garavaglia — who trained under Colagreco at the three-Michelin-starred Mirazur in Menton, France — plates trout topped with a chamomile sauce. Here, diners choose between four- and nine-course menus that reflect Garavaglia’s roots in the French and Italian Riviera while showcasing the vibrancy of Thai produce. He and his team source most ingredients locally, creating dishes like cuttlefish, from Surat Thani in southern Thailand, served with a velouté made from its peel and poached white asparagus.

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BANGKOK

SAMRUB SAMRUB THAI

It’s a family affair at this acclaimed gem in central Bangkok’s historic Bang Rak district, where chef Prin Polsuk delivers progressive Thai fare while his wife, Thanyaporn “Mint” Jarukittikun, keeps the front of house running smoothly. The menu constantly evolves, reviving long-lost recipes, with highlights like mackerel with mango salsa and fried river prawns wrapped in betel leaf. And don’t underestimate the heat: The couple was featured in an episode of Apple TV+’s Omnivore, hosted

by Noma’s René Redzepi, celebrating the power of the chili pepper. 

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Eat Like a Tahitian

B y J e s s i c a H u ra s — P h o t o s by S a d r y G h a c i r

Chefs across French Polynesia are returning to traditional ingredients and redefining what it means to eat in paradise.

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t’s barely 10 a.m., but the sun is already high — and hot, baking the pavement of a sleepy parking lot on the island of Moorea, 10 nautical miles from Tahiti in French Polynesia. The salty breeze from Moorea’s reef-rimmed lagoon doesn’t quite reach this roadside plaza, where a no-frills canteen called Golden Lake is already serving a steady line of locals.

Inside the glass display case are trays of glossy stir-fried noodles, crisp spring rolls and French and Chinese pastries. After a few minutes, Heimata Hall, my guide, appears with warm baguettes split lengthwise and stuffed with wok-fried noodles, slivers of chicken and sautéed vegetables.

It’s comfort food in its own chaotic way — crunchy stir-fried noodles slick with soy and oil tucked inside the airy chew of a warm baguette. With every bite, the textures clash and then harmonize: crisp edges, soft bread, salty chicken, just enough grease.

This is casse-croûte chow mein, a local snack that captures something essential about French Polynesia — a place shaped by migration, colonization and cultural exchange. The noodles trace back to Chinese laborers brought to the islands in the 19th century under exploitative contracts to farm cotton. The bread is a holdover of French rule and became so beloved that rural roads are lined with

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“People want to reconnect with Polynesian culture, to find confidence in it and to express ourselves through it.”

baguette-shaped mailboxes (though bread deliveries no longer take place).

“This is where our food has been for a long time,” says Hall. “But it’s not where it’s going.”

Hall is part of a growing movement to reshape French Polynesia’s culinary identity — not by importing outside trends, but by rediscovering what was here all along. Born and raised in Moorea, Hall spent four years in Honolulu working under Ed Kenney and Dave Caldiero at Town restaurant, acclaimed for its commitment to Hawaii’s farm-to-table movement.

When he returned home in 2019, he had a similar mission: to put local ingredients and traditions first.

French Polynesia may conjure images of overwater villas with thatched roofs and honeymooners basking in the turquoise glow of Bora Bora. But there’s more: The 118 islands of this French overseas territory are scattered across five archipelagos, and Tahiti is the largest island of them. Moorea, just a short plane or ferry hop away, offers a slower pace and a deeper glimpse into everyday island life. This island is also home for Hall, who guides visitors through the flavors and the stories of Moorea and Tahiti with his company, Tahiti Food Tours.

While the chow mein sandwich reflects the colonial past, Hall believes the future of French Polynesia’s food lies in returning to its roots. “Due to colonization, there’s been a huge lack of confidence in ourselves and our culture,” Hall says. “But there’s a big drive now — people want to reconnect with Polynesian culture, to find confidence in it and to express ourselves through it.”

In recent years, Hall says, there’s been a quiet but growing shift: a return to the island’s edible inheritance. Ingredients like taro, coconut, breadfruit

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT Surfer Takihei Ellacott, one of the sport’s rising stars, takes a wave at Papara; Moorea’s Te Honu (the Turtle) bar offers a perfect place to watch the sun set; chef and guide Heimata Hall; a blend of grated coconut, brown sugar, vanilla and rum, bonbon coco is a popular treat at Papeete’s market.

OPENING SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT The Hikianalia, seen at the docks in Moorea, is one of two double-hulled Hawaiian voyaging canoes used to train the next generation of Polynesian navigators; Eva Bourgeois, co-founder of NIU Shack, harvests avocados in her garden on Raiatea.

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CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT Chef Nahema Charles preps a dish in her Pura Vida roulotte; fe‘i stuffed with shiitake mushrooms and coconut milk — a vegetarian treat at NIU Shack; mother-daughter team Victorine Tihopu (right) and Eva Bourgeois (left) share a moment in the tranquil surroundings; NIU Shack, seen from above.

PREVIOUS SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT Outrigger canoes like these docked at Tahiti’s Point Venus are used for coastal fishing or for trips out on the lagoon; a merchant sells mangue bonbon chinois, an invigoratingly tart treat made from sliced green mango doused with salty-sweet red plum powder and vinegar.

and fe‘i — a starchy orange banana once reserved for chiefs — are being embraced again, not just as nostalgic staples, but as centerpieces of a revitalized food culture.

So are traditional techniques. At community events and on restaurant menus, diners are once again seeing ahima‘a: entire meals slow-cooked in underground ovens. Even fafaru, a pungent fermented fish stew, is being served more often at cultural gatherings and traditional snack spots.

Meanwhile, small-scale growers are reviving ancestral agriculture — rotating root crops, layering fruit trees beneath a leafy canopy and timing planting cycles with the moon, drawing on generations of Polynesian horticultural knowledge. “Before colonization,” Hall explains, “our ancestors lived in harmony with the seasons. We lost so much of that knowledge, but now we’re reclaiming it.”

A short drive brings us to another parking lot in the village of Pao Pao, on Moorea’s north shore, facing Cook’s Bay and some steep green mountains rising in the distance. Parked in the corner is Pura Vida, a cherry-red roulotte, another of the roadside food trucks central to Tahitian street-food culture. Banana plants and potted herbs flank folding tables out front, with the day’s specials listed on a surfboard-shaped chalkboard. Chef Nahema Charles works out of the compact kitchen, crafting a menu that changes with the seasons, using ingredients pulled from her home garden or gathered from nearby growers and fishers.

On this day, Charles is serving tortillas made from fe‘i filled with seared white tuna, and a chilled hibiscus drink garnished with starfruit. The tortillas are sweet, the toppings brightly flavored and the fish hot off the grill. Inspired by her travels to places like Thailand and Costa Rica, Charles reimagines local ingredients through a global lens — without losing sight of where they come from. The floral tang of her hibiscus tea lingers all afternoon.

A few days later on the island of Raiatea, I make my way to NIU Shack, a forest retreat run by Eva Bourgeois and her mother, Victorine Tihopu.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Warm potato, smoked swordfish and foie gras served with crunchy condiments — one of the creations chef Tereva Galopin serves at his restaurant, Le Sully; chef Galopin shops at Papeete’s municipal market, just down the street from Le Sully; Tahiti’s Ahonu Beach is a beginner surf spot with a view of Motu ’Au islet.

NIU Shack blends seamlessly into its lush Tepuhapa Valley surroundings. The kitchen is little more than a tin roof held up by beams, open to the elements and surrounded by towering foliage. Aside from the gas stove, the materials are all natural: bamboo-paneled walls, linen-covered floors, wooden counters. The family property extends past a garden, down to a quiet brook.

The kitchen opens onto a shaded porch where a long wooden table is set for lunch. There’s no printed menu here, no substitutions and no rush. One by one, platters arrive — each more artfully arranged than the last. There’s a delicate pumpkin “carpaccio” layered with pineapple and basil, patties made from chickpeas and split peas, and a vegan quiche with a coconut crust filled with taro and mushrooms. The garden isn’t a backdrop, it’s the source. I can taste the land in every bite: taro harvested that morning, herbs clipped minutes before they hit the plate. The pace, the ingredients, the setting of the meal all speak to a larger shift: This meal embodies everything Hall has been talking about — it’s local, modern, inventive and highly photogenic.

After the deep-green quiet of Raiatea, Papeete is a jolt. The capital of French Polynesia feels more like a compact suburb than a tropical escape — all low-rise buildings, traffic circles and strip malls. But as I walk through its central market with chef Tereva Galopin, the connection between place and food resurfaces. At Papeete’s market, vendors pile freshly caught lagoon fish on beds of crushed ice, stack fragrant hei (flower necklaces woven from tiare, frangipani and hibiscus) on folding tables and scoop the flesh of ripe mangoes and papayas into containers.

Born in Tahiti to a French father (a Maître Cuisinier de France) and a Polynesian mother, chef Galopin grew up in a restaurant, surrounded by pots and pans: His parents ran the fine-dining restaurant Auberge du Pacifique in downtown Papeete. After honing his classical technique with Michelin-starred chef Christian Constant in Paris, Galopin returned to his reverence for the flavors of home.

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TA H I T I

Where to Eat Maru Maru, Papeete Tucked down a quiet side street in Papeete, this unassuming spot with a variable menu offers some of the city’s most inventive cooking in a cozy, woodaccented dining room.

Dishes like grilled lobster with vanilla butter, swordfish in white wine and garlic, and guava pie make thoughtful use of homegrown ingredients.

Today, he’s shopping for our lunch. As we move through the market, Galopin picks out burgo, a reef-dwelling grouper from the Marquesas Islands; pahua, giant clams with soft, briny flesh; a selection of local root vegetables — taro, uru (breadfruit), cassava; and slightly sweet autera‘a nuts.

Back at his restaurant, Le Sully, Galopin turns our haul into a meal that’s elegant in technique but anchored in the flavors of home. We start with a playful salade tahitiçoise, his island take on the French classic niçoise but with seared local tuna, crisp vegetables and roasted autera‘a nuts in place of olives.

Next comes burgo carpaccio, sliced thin, followed by a creamy taro risotto. The meal ends with a garlicky serving of pahua bourguignon: giant clams prepared with butter, parsley and white wine. Like so many meals I’ve had here, this one’s made from island ingredients and shaped by the hands of those reclaiming how they’re used.

These islands’ true flavors are coming to the surface as cooks across French Polynesia return to the tools and techniques of their ancestors — not to replicate the past, but to shape the future. It’s a cuisine rooted in tradition, informed by history and proud of its place in the world. And that, you can taste. 

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Snack Rotui, Moorea A Moorea institution since 1973, this no-frills snack bar overlooks the turquoise waters of Cook’s Bay. The menu is a snapshot of the islands’ culinary past: Egg rolls, dumplings and ma‘a tinito (“Chinese food” in Tahitian — braised pork and beans) share space with poisson cru, the national dish made with raw fish, lime and coconut milk.

Food Trucks at Aorai Tini Hau Park, Pirae By 6:30 p.m., dozens of roulottes transform this park near Papeete into a lively, alfresco food hall and diners descend to enjoy a laid-back meal under the stars. These mobile kitchens, which once served laborers on worksites, are an island institution. Expect to find old standbys (Chinese stir-fries and French crêpes) along with local ingredients in dishes like grilled lagoon fish or taro fries.

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When every dish

is infused with adventure.

Discover four million star dining on a Seabourn voyage, where our Chef crafts regional dishes using the freshest ingredients and produce. Shop with the Chef at local markets, a Signature Event, and discover how they bring the flavors of each destination right to your table. The culinary adventures you live for await.

Ask your Ensemble travel advisor how you can get up to US$400 per suite shipboard credit on your next Seabourn cruise or expedition.

Contact your Ensemble travel advisor to book your Seabourn voyage today

TEXT: ANDREW ELKIN. PHOTO: FRANTIC00/GETTY IMAGES.

WHERE NEXT

Casablanca, Morocco A fusion of art deco architecture popular in early 20th-century Europe with classical Moroccan forms, the Mauresque style is on full display across Casablanca. The city’s Church of the Sacred Heart is a striking example: Erected between 1930 and 1953 when the country was a French protectorate, its bell towers echo a mosque’s minaret, while neo-Gothic buttresses hint at the scale of a great cathedral. Last used as a church in the 1970s, the building now serves as a venue for cultural events — and as an architectural marker for Morocco’s modern era.

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A P E R F E C T DAY I N

Madrid SPAIN

This inland European capital may lack a beach, but it has everything else: iconic art, world-class flamenco and a culinary scene that marches to the beat of its own drum.

By Robert Liwanag

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PHOTO: ALEV TAKIL/UNSPLASH.

I

arrive in Madrid alongside another infrequent visitor: rain. Find­ing myself in Chueca, a hip neighborhood in the city’s core, I’m suddenly on the lookout for more surprises. If Barcelona is a magnet for lovers of beaches, laid-back vibes and Gaudí masterpieces, then Madrid offers an intriguing counterpoint: landlocked, a touch more reserved and defined by an architectural ethos that blends classical elegance with contemporary edge. Yet Madrid is no less alluring. Once the seat of a global empire, this is a place that moves with the grace and confidence of a flamenco dancer — where you can study the world’s most famous Picasso, then lose yourself in unforgettable tapas.

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A P E R F E C T DAY I N

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01 Industrial history and boundarypushing art meet at Matadero Madrid, set in a repurposed slaughterhouse.

02 The 300-acre El Retiro Park is the perfect place for an early-morning stroll or an evening wind-down.

OPENING PAGE Gran Vía embodies Madrid’s modernization through its mix of neoclassical and art deco styles.

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PHOTOS: TOMAS ANTON ESCOBAR/UNSPLASH (01); ALLEN.G/ADOBE STOCK (02).

Morning With its blend of world-class museums and quirky treasures, Madrid is undeniably an art town, and I’d be remiss not to begin the day by diving into the weird and experimental. In the Arganzuela district — just south of the city center against the Manzanares River — lies a vast, lightbrown brick complex that looks frozen in time. This is Matadero Madrid, a multidisciplinary arts center housed in a former slaughterhouse and livestock market.

Quaint, in a post-industrial kind of way.

Founded in 2006, it’s equal parts museum, gallery, community hub and event space, and free for all. A contemporary exhibition held in darkness features 13 audiovisual works by acclaimed Thai artist and filmmaker Apichatpong Weerasethakul, while a showcase of up-and-coming artists buzzes in an adjacent building.

From urban chic to natural beauty, I hop on the metro and head north to the stunning El Retiro Park, once a private retreat for the Spanish royal family. Located in the neighborhood that shares its name, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a beloved 300-acre green expanse in the heart of

Madrid — and a refuge for Madrileños from the summer heat. Gardens, lakes and statues abound, but the park’s most stunning feature is the Palacio de Cristal, built in 1887. Apart from its brick-and-iron framework, the conservatory is made almost entirely of glass. Even under overcast skies, it glows.

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Our elegant ships are the home of fine dining on the ocean DINING WITH CRYSTAL IS THE ULTIMATE GOURMET EXPERIENCE – AND IT’S ALL INCLUDED IN THE PRICE. NINE DISTINCT OPTIONS INCLUDE THE ONLY NOBU AND BEEFBAR RESTAURANTS AT SEA, ITALIAN CUISINE BY THE MICHELIN-RATED ALAJMO BROTHERS, AND TASTING MENUS PAIRED WITH AN EXTENSIVE CHOICE OF WINES IN THE VINTAGE ROOM. PLEASE CONTACT YOUR ENSEMBLE TRAVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DETAILS.

WHERE NEXT

PHOTOS: COURTESY TABERNA ANTONIO SÁNCHEZ (03); TAKASHI IMAGES/ADOBE STOCK (04); SYLVAIN SONNET/GETTY IMAGES (05).

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A P E R F E C T DAY I N

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03 Savor tapas at Taberna Antonio Sánchez, one of the city’s oldest taverns.

04 Housed in a former 16th-century hospital, the Reina Sofía showcases the best of Spanish modern art.

05 The Museo Nacional del Prado houses more than 8,000 paintings.

Afternoon If you’re in Madrid, you’re never far from great tapas. Get your fix at one of the oldest taverns in the city, the historic Taberna Antonio Sánchez, which was founded in 1787 and still operates in its original location in the Lavapiés neighborhood.

Outside, its wooden exterior looks as if it hasn’t changed since the tavern opened; inside, the casual white-tablecloth setting is surrounded by vintage portraits and black-and-white photographs. The kitchen remains loyal to the classics, serving hearty callos a la Madrileña (Madrid-style tripe) and comforting cocido (chickpea stew).

The waiters avoid speaking English to their international guests — not rudely, but with a kind of unspoken encouragement: You’ll enjoy this experience more if you speak our language. Duly noted.

After lunch, I take a leisurely 20-minute stroll southeast to the Golden Triangle of Art, an area that is home to Madrid’s big three museums: the Museo Nacional del Prado, for masterpieces from the 16th and 17th centuries, when Spain’s influence was

at its peak; the Museo Nacional ThyssenBornemisza, for around 700 paintings spanning 700 years; and the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía, for modern classics. I opt for the Reina Sofía.

It’s home to Picasso’s iconic Guernica, the primal 1937 anti-war canvas depicting the horrors of the Spanish Civil War. But there are lesser-known gems, too. In room 205.06, I find Figure at the Window, a stunning realist painting by Salvador Dalí that strikes me as one of the more serene things he ever painted. And on the fourth floor, I discover the textured forms of Catalan artist Antoni Tàpies, a proponent of Tachisme, Europe’s answer to America’s abstract expressionist movement.

After a deep dive into fine art, it’s time to switch gears for something more lowkey. A short walk northwest brings me to the Literary Quarter, a charming cluster of streets famed for indie boutiques and bookish energy. On a whim, I duck into La Integral. Housed in a former bakery, it offers everything from obscure vinyl and band tees to quirky knickknacks. If you’re looking to support local artists or find a one-of-a-kind souvenir, start here.

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A P E R F E C T DAY I N

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Evening It’s now nearing 7:30 p.m., and it’s time for dinner — an early hour by Madrid standards. I have a table booked at the three-Michelin-starred DiverXO, which has held a top-five spot in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list for the past four years.

At this playful restaurant — all sheer curtains, dramatic lights and retro-futuristic chairs — chef Dabiz Muñoz treats guests to a dozen-odd-course tasting menu that’s as delicious as it is offbeat. The formal reserve of traditional fine dining is nowhere to be found; in its place is a series of thick papers with fanciful illustrations explaining the origins of each dish. The food is equally whimsical: blue crab with kimchi ice cream; spicy and sour oxtail soup served in a hollow bull horn; and The Bottom of the Pot, a dish meant to evoke the crispy bits stuck to cast iron, served as a stew of marinated wild-boar ribs and vegetables.

DiverXO’s mascot? A cute plump, pink pig.

Muñoz himself famously sports a mohawk, a perfect symbol for a restaurant as close to punk as haute cuisine can get.

After a well-paced two-and-a-half-hour dinner, I rush to Cardamomo Flamenco Madrid in the Literary Quarter to catch

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06 There are no bad views in the 100-seat Cardamomo Flamenco Madrid, which has offered a thrilling fusion of traditional and avant-garde flamenco since 1994.

07 An egg yolk with a puntilla taco and tangy flowers at DiverXO.

the final performance of the evening. The tablao (a venue for flamenco) is intimate, with the stage no wider than 15 feet. Two female dancers, one older and one younger, alternate their moves. In the background, a troupe of musicians — two guitarists, one drummer and three men pulling double duty on vocals and rhythmic clapping — supplies the pulse for their movements.

As someone unfamiliar with the magic of flamenco, I am pleasantly surprised to hear the Arabic and North African influences in the strum of guitars and gorgeous, sustained wails — just one legacy of nearly 800 years of Moorish rule, and yet another reminder of Madrid’s rich, layered culture. 

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W H E R E T O S TAY THOMPSON MADRID

A perennial favorite since its debut in 2022, this five-star Hyatt property features 175 rooms, three dining options and a wellness center. Located on Plaza del Carmen in central Madrid, the Thompson is a short stroll from Gran Vía — Spain’s Broadway district — and the Sorolla Museum. For a truly unforgettable stay, book the 2,390-squarefoot penthouse suite on floors nine and 10.

Ask your Ensemble travel advisor about exclusive amenities at this property.

PHOTOS: NURPHOTO SRL/ALAMY (06); ROBERT LIWANAG (07); COURTESY OF THOMPSON MADRID (WHERE TO STAY).

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A TASTE OF LOCAL LIFE In 2026, discover the true flavors of Europe with Azamara. As you sail to charming ports, our chefs venture ashore to source fresh, local ingredients—bringing the essence of each destination straight to your plate. Enjoy curated Destination Showcase dinners inspired by regional cuisine and sip local wines and craft beers as you dine. It’s food and wine, done the local way.

Book select 2026 cruises and receive an exclusive $200 onboard credit per stateroom*.

Cinque Terre, Italy

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.

Onboard Spending Credit (OBC) is in U.S. dollars, has no cash value, is not redeemable for cash, not transferable and will expire if not used by 10:00 pm on the last evening of the cruise. OBC is valid for new individual FIT bookings only made in Club Oceanview staterooms or above under Price Program “Amenity ENS”. OBC will be applied at time of booking. Offer is not available to Groups. Singles pay 200% receive the full stateroom amount. Offer is not combinable with other OBC offers.

Offer is not applicable to Restricted Price Programs such as CUG, COV, LMV, Net, Interline, or Travel Agent Reduced Rates. Offers are subject to change and may be withdrawn at any time without notice. Certain Restrictions apply. Canada Agencies: This offer is not valid for bookings made through a Tour Operator.

For additional details please refer to www.Azamara.com and the Cruise Ticket Contract for additional terms and conditions or contact your travel professional.

SAIL UNIQUE Designed to feel like your own private yacht

Ultra-elegant interiors

Unforgettable dining

Ocean-inspired wellness

D I S C OV E R T H E O C E A N STAT E O F M I N D. Explora Journeys invites you to sail in an inclusive, ultra-elegant home-away-from-home designed by super-yacht specialists, as you enjoy unforgettable culinary experiences and indulge in ocean-inspired wellness on a journey to iconic and lesser-travelled destinations in effortless European style.

P L E A S E C O N TACT YO U R E N S E M B L E T RAV E L A DV I S O R F O R M O R E D E TA I L S

WHERE NEXT

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TRY THIS

Feast at a Celebrity Chef’s Farm Regenerative farming meets fine dining at Nadia Lim’s Royalburn Station in New Zealand.

By K atie Sehl

OUTFITTER

Alpine Luxury Tours Alpine Luxury Tours is based in Queenstown, on New Zealand’s South Island. They’ll take you from there to Royalburn Station, between Arrowtown and Wānaka. Don’t want to fly? Swap the sky for the scenic route in a private Mercedes-Benz.

DURATION

5 hours WHEN TO GO

October–April BONUS

Round out your day with add-ons like a Milford Sound or Tasman Glacier boat cruise.

SOUVENIR

PHOTO: MATT QUÉRÉE/COURTESY OF NADIA LIM.

A premium wool Royalburn throw, dyed in kale and barley tones.

It starts with a mountain flyover and ends with grilled peaches. In between: newborn lambs to feed, sunflower focaccia to snack on and a glimpse into real farm life. “We eat the sunflower focaccia in the sunflower field,” says Kiwi television chef and cookbook author Nadia Lim, who owns Royalburn Station with her partner, Carlos Bagrie, and joins the tours when she can.

When she can’t, she may be inside filming Nadia’s Farm Kitchen, the spinoff of her threeseason series, Nadia’s Farm. “Nadia’s Farm was a farm show with a little bit of cooking, whereas this is a cooking show with a little bit of farm,” she says. The original gave viewers a peek into what it’s like to run a large-scale regenerative farm, home to thousands of sheep and chickens, two goats named Arthur and Milly and more

than a few unruly roosters. When it aired, viewers didn’t just want to watch — they wanted in. And so began the tours.

Your morning on this 1,200-acre, high country farm shifts with the seasons — and your whims.

You might look in on the henhouse, stop by the abattoir, pop into the market garden or walk along rows of barley — a few hundred tons of which are harvested each year. A tasting of Mora Wines’ premium Central Otago range follows, then lunch is served inside (or outside) Prohibition House, a restored shearer’s cottage styled in homage to the moonshine once stashed beneath nearby sheds. On the three-course, chef-cooked menu: fresh bread, local charcuterie, garden vegetables, barbecued meats (often Royalburn lamb) and fresh fruit for dessert. 

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Contact your Ensemble travel advisor to personalize this Alpine Luxury Tours experience with Southern World.

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Hand-Crafted Tours That Bring You More of Africa Taste the regional Shiraz grapes at a winery in Namibia. Share a meal with a Capetonian family in their home. Picnic amidst the African wilderness.

Savor an al fresco dinner on the banks of the Zambezi River.

On Collette’s expertly guided tours, delve even deeper into the heart of Africa with cultural and culinary experiences curated by destination experts.

Please contact your Ensemble travel advisor for more details.

RANGE × RIVERSIDE LUXURY CRUISES

All Aboard for Fine Cuisine

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF RIVERSIDE LUXURY CRUISES.

Cristian Mondaca, who oversees culinary operations across the Riverside Luxury Cruises fleet, shares the recipe for the line’s standout dining experience.

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What defines the culinary approach at Riverside Luxury Cruises?

Our philosophy is rooted in regional authenticity. We operate like a floating culinary resort: There are multiple dining venues on board, and fresh ingredients are brought aboard from local markets. One week it’s lavender honey from Provence, the next it’s apricots in the Wachau Valley.

What role do Riverside sommeliers play in the dining experience?

A big one. Our sommeliers aren’t just wine experts — they’re storytellers. They work closely with our chefs to create local pairings, like a bold kékfrankos with a Hungarian goulash or a Wachauer riesling with an apricot torte. It adds a real sense of place to the meal.

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How do you and your team manage sourcing?

While guests are off exploring the town, our chefs head to the markets. In many places in France where Riverside Ravel sails, vendors greet them by name, saving the freshest fish for the ship. We’ve built long­ standing relationships with these producers. Sometimes we bring guests with us, and they end up recognizing the same ingredients on their plate later that day.

What makes the experience truly special for guests?

It’s the personal touches. The Riverside butlers remember how you take your espresso, or arrange a surprise wine-andcheese picnic in your suite.

We’ve even had guests request a favorite regional dish from a past cruise, and we made it happen.

For many guests, the food and wine are the heart of the journey.

Some even follow our chefs from ship to ship.

Cristian Mondaca FOOD AND BEVERAGE OPERATION MANAGER

Cristian Mondaca is the corporate food and beverage operation manager at Riverside Luxury Cruises, which operates three river-going cruise ships on six European waterways. Mondaca is a certified sommelier with a back­ground in luxury hospitality, spanning both high-end hotels and cruise lines.

Read the full interview at rangetravel.com.

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ABOVE A server prepares one of seven courses in the Vintage Room on board Riverside Ravel.

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PORT OF CALL

FAST FACTS

Casablanca In Morocco’s largest city, grand boulevards, daring architecture and the steady buzz of an ancient metropolis make for the perfect pre- or post-cruise stay.

By Claire Sibonney

Currency Moroccan dirham (MAD

Language Arabic, Amazigh and French

Tipping 10%–15% is customary in restaurants and cafés.

Temperature Average daily highs range from 79°F/26°C (August) to 63°F/17°C (January).

CASABLANCA

R

C

O TRIVIA

Transportation Casablanca’s acclaimed tram system, first launched in 2012 and used by an estimated 220,000 people each day, has helped reduce the city’s carbon footprint.

Surfing

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asablanca doesn’t try to impress visitors — and that’s exactly why it’s worth exploring. While travelers flock to Marrakech’s ornate riads or Fez’s labyrinthine medina, this cosmopolitan port on the Atlantic Ocean offers an unfiltered view of modern urban life in Morocco. Casablanca’s rich history unfolds in its streets: growing from ancient Roman and Amazigh roots, claimed by the Portuguese and later reshaped under French rule, with wide boulevards, bold art deco facades and mid-century modern flair. Its markets serve locals more than souvenir hunters.

And beyond the bustle, you’ll find contemporary galleries, rooftop parties, Andalusian orchestras and neighborhood cafés serving flaky pastries and tea stuffed with mint leaves — a cultural scene crafted for those who call the city home.

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Noted for its Atlantic surf, Casablanca even welcomed an international competition in 2018. For the best breaks, venture 19 miles west to Dar Bouazza, a beachside suburb.

Pop Culture Though filmed in Burbank, the 1942 film Casablanca made the city famous — and there’s no better place to soak up the myth than with live piano music at Rick’s Café, which opened in 2004.

CRUISE SHIP ILLUSTRATION: CLAIRE M c CRACKEN. PHOTO: OUSAMMA RAHIB/UNSPLASH (TRIVIA).

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DID YOU KNOW?

PHOTOS: NATALIA PLANKINA/GETTY IMAGES (THE SOUVENIR); LOCALIZE UU/UNSPLASH (CAN’T MISS); NINITTA/GETTY IMAGES (EAT THIS); COURTESY OF CABESTAN OCEAN VIEW (SUNSET SPOT); JAMES STRACHAN/GETTY IMAGES (IF YOU’RE UP FOR A DAY TRIP).

THE SOUVENIR

Babouche Slippers For a classic keepsake, head to Quartier Habous — a laid-back, French colonial-era district of narrow alleys, arched arcades and mosaic-lined shops. Among the spices and handicrafts, you’ll find snazzy leather babouche slippers, their pointed toes a centuries-old design rooted in Moroccan and Persian fashions.

On the outskirts of Casablanca, Thomas Quarry I drew global attention in 1969 when a boy found a hominid fossil — a half-jawbone dating back hundreds of thousands of years.

Though closed to visitors, the site has since yielded stone tools, teeth and animal remains.

SUNSET SPOT

For a swish night out on La Corniche beachfront, the Cabestan Ocean View is the place to be: part fine-dining restaurant, part seaside lounge, perched beside the El Hank lighthouse with sweeping Atlantic views. As the sun sets, DJs take over and the vibe shifts from Riviera-elegant to clubby. Try the Dakhla oysters, wood-fired fish and kumquat mojito.

June and July sunset parties are reservation-only.

E AT T H I S

CAN’T MISS

Hassan II Mosque Built partly on land reclaimed from the Atlantic Ocean, the Hassan II Mosque is the second-largest functioning mosque in Africa and one of two in Morocco open to non-Muslims. Its nearly 689-foot minaret, retractable roof, intricate zellige tile work and carved cedar ceilings combine to make a breathtaking complex, with room for 25,000 worshippers inside and 80,000 more on its oceanfront esplanade.

Sfenj Head to the leafy courtyard of La Sqala near Casablanca’s Old Medina, for sfenj — a staple of street-food breakfasts across Morocco. Made from sticky, unsweetened dough, these Moroccan doughnuts are fried until golden and crisp with a soft, chewy center, then dipped in sugar or honey.

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I F YO U ’ R E U P F O R A DAY T R I P

Discover the Magic of Rabat Just an hour from Casablanca by car, the seaside capital offers a quieter, greener take on urban Morocco, with imperial landmarks like the Hassan Tower and Chellah, leafy boulevards, a modern tram and markets where Rbati carpets and embroidery are still made by hand. Its historic center became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2012.

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Royal Mansour Casablanca MARK YOUR CALENDAR

Jazzablanca Morocco’s largest jazz and contemporary music festival has welcomed stars like Nile Rodgers, Herbie Hancock and Ben Harper to its stages. Festivities take place every July at Anfa Park, a 124-acre oasis in the heart of the city, featuring a picturesque canal. Expect open-air shows, ticketed concerts and free performances that draw crowds from across the country.

Reopened in 2024, this royalowned five-star stay brings glossy, sculpted style to a 1950s institution.

Set between the Old Medina and the art deco district, it’s dressed head to toe in marble, with a stunning lobby aquarium, playful designer suites, global dining, a cocktail bar and a standout spa.

E V E RY F R I DAY

NEW IN TOWN

Casablanca Memory Museum Opened in February at Villa Carl Ficke, the Casablanca Memory Museum is the first major museum focused entirely on Casablanca’s history. It’s housed in a beautifully restored 1913 villa with landscaped gardens and outdoor sculptures near Parc de la Ligue Arabe. Inside its neoclassical arches, rotating exhibits trace the city’s story — from precolonial Anfa to French resistance.

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Across Morocco, Friday is couscous day — a ritual tied to the Islamic holy day and family meals after midday prayer. While some establishments serve it daily, many stick to tradition. In Casablanca, look for seven-vegetable couscous with lamb, chicken or sweet onions and raisins at trusted eateries like Al-Mounia or Dar El Kaid.

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Hyatt Regency Casablanca Another five-star property nearby, this luxury hotel overlooks the lively United Nations Square.

The look is sleek, with thoughtful homage to Moroccan art deco and tradition — less formal, but no less inviting. Ask for a room with a view of the Hassan II Mosque or Atlantic Ocean, then lose yourself by a palmlined pool and indulge in French and Moroccan dining.

Ask your Ensemble travel advisor about exclusive amenities at these properties.

PHOTOS: SIFE ELAMINE/JAZZABLANCA (MARK YOUR CALENDAR); FONDATION NATIONALE DES MUSÉES (NEW IN TOWN); HAMZA/ADOBE STOCK (EVERY FRIDAY); COURTESY OF ROYAL MANSOUR CASABLANCA (WHERE TO STAY); COURTESY OF HYATT REGENCY CASABLANCA (WHERE TO STAY).

W H E R E TO S TAY

Think you know cruise dining? Think again. On Virgin Voyages, you’ll set sail alongside award-winning dining, all of which is already included in your voyage fare. Embark on a sun-soaked Caribbean sojourn, a timeless Mediterranean adventure, or experience true culinary decadence at sea on our Eat & Drink Month sailings coming in 2026.

Our made-to-order menus are always fresh, featuring decadent bites like Shrimp Kimbap Rolls at Gunbae, Pink Agave’s Enchiladas de Pollo, the Wake’s mouthwatering filet mignon, and so much more.

Buy one Sailor, get one 70% plus up to $600 in instant savings on your exclusively adult-only escape aboard one of our four stunning Lady Ships. Now booking through 2027, enjoy elevated experiences, bold flavors, and unforgettable moments at sea.

PLE ASE CONTAC T YOUR ENSEMBLE TR AVEL ADVISOR FOR MORE DE TAIL S.

Best Dining

O U T TA K E

“Bangkok has definitely got culture,” says photographer Simon Bajada as he recalls sweating between stalls at Khlong Toei Market. The well-traveled former chef — born in Australia, living in Sweden, with Maltese roots — would know. “There are built-up modern areas, then looser ones with food markets and pops of color,” he says. “It’s an exciting city to get lost and eat in.”

PHOTO: SIMON BAJADA. TEXT: KATIE SEHL.

Bangkok, Thailand

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Award-Winning

Farm-to-Ship Dining As proud members of the renowned culinary organizations La Chaîne des Rôtisseurs and Tables et Auberges de France, AmaWaterways is dedicated to serving exceptional cuisine on board all of our river cruise ships. Our chefs craft each meal using premium ingredients sourced from fields, orchards, markets and local fishermen along the rivers, ensuring that every dish captures the authentic flavors of each destination on your journey.

Contact your travel advisor and ask how you can save up to USD $2,500/CAD $3,000 per stateroom on your 2025 or 2026 AmaWaterways river cruise through Europe, Asia, Egypt or Colombia.

Offers based on availability; terms apply.

Travel Better Thank you for traveling with us in the latest issue of Range by Ensemble. Start planning your next journey — beyond these pages — with your trusted Ensemble travel advisor.