July 2021 - Shop In RI

Page 19

SLOW-COOKED COFFEE-RUBBED BRISKET CHINESE PORK RIB RECIPE WORKS FOR BEEF, TOO Notes from the Cooker, Traveler, Master Gardener and Serious Sipper of Creative Cocktails

CHINESE PORK RIBMaster RECIPE WORKS BEEF, TOO One of our favorite restaurants here Notes from the Cooker, Traveler, Gardener and SeriousFOR Sipper of Creative Cocktails

in Rhode Island is Fluke Newport in…well…Newport. We’ve dined When I wasbut a big kid,changes no visit to a there for years, hapChinese restaurant was complete pened last summer when they hired without an order of those sweet, a new chef. We met Chef Eddie greasy and radioactive red spare Montalvo just after he had arrived Notes from the Cooker, Traveler, Master Gardener and Serious Sipper of Creativeribs. Cocktails They came in that foil-lined at Fluke, and we were impressed bag that barely kept them warm with his new menu.

Ingredients: 3 tablespoons brown sugar

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon Kosher salt

1 tablespoon ground coffee (use your 1/3 cup hoisin sauce favorite) 1/4 cup soy sauce

1 teaspoon granulateddry garlic 3 tablespoons marsala wine

Ingredients:

1 teaspoon granulated onion 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

or throughunsweetened a press 1 teaspoon cocoa

until my dad gotauskid, home devour When I was no tovisit to a them alongrestaurant with the other Chinese was classics: complete Wefried camedumplings, back for another visit just and soup without an order of wonton those sweet, over a month ago, and meeting Edwith friedand wontons on the I greasy radioactive redside. spare diestill again, we thought we would insee those ribs on even ribs. They came in menus that foil-lined vitetoday, him and family to our home andhis despite my cravings, I bag that barely kept them warm someday for a visit. just eat got fire-engine-red-dyed untildon’t my dad us home to devour food themanymore. along with the other classics: Well, thatdumplings, “someday”and is tomorrow, fried wonton soup andImagine the reality that I’m going toside. be I I excitement with friedmy wontons on thewhen saw aforrecipe for on those cooking a real ribs chef formenus the classic first still see those even spare ribs foodmy magazine. today, and cravings, time in my lifeindespite isamaking me a bit I I figured I’d just make them without just don’t eat fire-engine-red-dyed nervous! the food coloring. food anymore.

I went to Twitter for some help. Since I follow a number of chefs, I asked the question: I’mI cooking forI’ve a real chefhad for all thethe firstingredients time. What’s #1 tip you my can give me? Onlywhen one Imagine excitement don’t think ever to the make a recipe exactly as written, andI chef answered, but it was none other than Andrew Zimmern, and he said simply: saw acalled recipe those classic this was no exception. For one thing, the original recipe for for dry sherry. I “Be didn’t yourself. Yeah…I think I canI fake that!!!! sparetheribs in ribs, a food have ”it Be somyself? I used dry marsala wine. didn’t even have pork so Imagazine. substitutedI I’d just make them without a beautiful slab of grass-fed beef flap. The resultsfigured were still delicious. But feel free

So to I started thinking…Chef Eddie works with all food day Fluke. Skip that.like He’s coloring. use pork ribs, as originally intended. Andseafood if you the can’t findat beef flap, a cut skirt Italian and homemade pasta. Skip that. What do I love to cook and do steak is amakes goodamazing substitute. pretty well…? Barbecue! I don’t think I’ve ever had all the ingredients to make a recipe exactly as written, and To make marinade, For combine the hoisin sauce,recipe soy sauce, wine, garlic, this was the no exception. one thing, the original calledmarsala for dry sherry. I didn’t

sugar and fivemarsala spice a bowl. Mix well. have it soChinese I used dry I didn’t even brisket have the porkfreezer. ribs, so I substituted I have a beautiful grass-fed Angusinwine. beef New Zealand in my That’s what 1/3 cup hoisin sauce a beautiful slab of grass-fed beef flap. The results were still delicious. But feel I need to make! A simple, comfort-food meal. Barbecued brisket…twice-baked sweetfree 2 tablespoons sugar powder 1/4 cup soy sauce Trim thepork excess silverasskin theAnd beefmy and it’s thick, slice ait cut lengthwise to use asand originally intended. ifflap, you can’tifrecipe find beef flap, like skirt big ribs, oldfat salad…and an off appetizer: no-fail for Oysters Rock-a1/2 teaspoon Chinese five spice potatoes…a to make a thinner piece of meat about 1/4" to 1/2" thick. steak is a good substitute. 3 tablespoons dry marsala wine Fellow! (OK, I had to get a little seafood in there.) powder

cloves garlic, finely chopped the meat in the marinade, making sure itsauce, gets well coated on allago. sides. Marinate To theI marinade, combine the sauce, marsala garlic, 22lbs. flap (skirt steak or When I beef smoke my brisket low-and-slow inPlace mymake smoker, use a coffee steak rub thathoisin I developed asoy couple of years Itwine, gives a or through a press the meat at room temperature for about 60 minutes. If you have a thicker cut of meat, sugar and Chinese five spice in a bowl. Mix well. hanger steak works, too) deep, rich crust to the meat that is just fantastic. you can marinate it longer. 2 tablespoons sugar Trim the fat and silver skin off the beef flap, and if it’s thick, slice it lengthwise Depending on thethe size of the five brisket, you might needexcess to double the recipe. Drain discard marinade. 1/2and teaspoon Chinese spice to make a thinner piece of meat about 1/4" to 1/2" thick.

powder If theabrisket is frozen, I like toathaw a couple days ahead of cooking it, rubbing down with the coffee rub,side and placing it in Heat cast iron pan and add littleitlard or oil.ofPlace the beef flap pieces in the itpan, searing well on one before flipping Place the meat in the marinade, making sure it gets well coated on all sides. Marinate 2 fridge lbs. flapIf(skirt steak to or rest. over to thebeef other. the meat is thin, Iyou can cook it to an a medium-rare right there onthe themeat stove top.back You to might need to finish the the for about 24 hours bring it out about hour before smoking, to let come room temperature, the meat at room temperature for about 60 minutes. If you have a thicker cut of meat, hanger steak works, too)smoker beef in a 350-degree oven if you’re thicker at cut. and then I place it in the for using about a12 225 degrees, smoking it with hickory wood. youhours can marinate it longer. The meat cooks the broiler or oninthe If using broiler, just watch out slicing for flare-ups fromagainst the fat. It Drain and discard thebeautifully marinade. When it’s also done, I remove it from under the smoker, and wrap foilgrill. and let it restthe at least 30 minutes before diagonally can get smokey. I literally picked up my toaster oven and moved it under the hood of my stove so that the smoke was the grain of the meat. If I’m not serving it right away, I place the wrapped brisket in the oven at the lowest setting, about sucked 150 up andavented (The first time I broiled, filledbeef withflap smoke!) Heat cast pan add a little lard ormy oil.kitchen Place the pieces in the pan, searing well on one side before flipping degrees, just iron toout. keep itand warm. over to the other. If the meat is thin, you can cook it to a medium-rare right there on the stove top. You might need to finish the To make Chinese ribs with this marinade: simply placeagainst the ribs theofmarinade beef inI’m athe 350-degree oven if you’re using a thicker cut. When ready to serve, I always slice the brisket on the bias, theand grain the meat. in a Ziploc bag at room temperature for at least 60 minutes. Pre-heat the oven to 350 degrees, and place the ribs on a baking sheet with a wire rack on top. Save the baste the ribsunder with itthe every 30 or minutes, the ribs as just you watch do so.out Cook the ribs are Themarinade…and meat also cooks beautifully broiler on the turning grill. If using theover broiler, for until flare-ups from thedone, fat. It about 2 hours. can get smokey. I literally picked up my toaster oven and moved it under the hood of my stove so that the smoke was sucked ShopInRI 17 up and vented out. (The first time I broiled, my kitchen filled with smoke!)

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To make the Chinese ribs with this marinade: simply place the ribs and the marinade in a Ziploc bag at room temperature


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July 2021 - Shop In RI by Andrew Irby - Issuu