Elysium January 2023

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E L Y S I U M

C o n c e p t b y J e s s e S c o t t i n

c o n j u n c t i o n w i t h

E l y s i u m C o c k t a i l C l u b

A l l w o r d s , p h o t o g r a p h s , a n d d e s i g n s

b y J e s s e S c o t t

u n l e s s o t h e r w i s e s p e c i f i e d

S p e c i a l t h a n k s t o g u e s t w r i t e r

a n d c o n s u l t a n t D i a n a H u k

L u x u r y i s t h e e a s e o f a t - s h i r t i n a v e r y

e x p e n s i v e d r e s s . "

- K a r l L a g e r f e l d

Letter from the Editor

Nostalgia & innnovation. Tradition & modernity I've been considering these juxtapositions a lot lately

This is not surprising given how much time I've been spending in Milano, a city where such temporal and philosophical contrasts are particularly pronounced. A Renaissance church, midcentury building with an industrial façade, and equally imposing chromatic billboard advertising the newest Armani collection? Sounds like a typical block in Porta Nuova or Porta Garibaldi Milano is the gleaming economic engine of Italy, a high-tech metropolis that centers the country's finance industry while serving as its fashion, design, and architecture hub and providing a playground for young creatives It also, at times, feels like a small community, one that is deeply proud of its Lombard heritage, has kept rich culinary and cultural traditions intact for centuries, and warmly embraces visitors, whether Italian or foreign, who embrace its unique rhythm of life.

Milan's Autumn//Winter 2022-23 collections were resplendent with this harmonious if seemingly oxymoronic spirit of the city Take Rodo, a 66year-old symbol of Italian craftsmanship, which remained loyal to its traditional bag-making tehcniques while launching an inspiring campaign to tackle the 21st century challenge of climate change

Or Balestra, the recently resusciated Roman brand which paid tribute to its founder's glamorous 80's silhouettes in a comeback collection that both featured Ancient Roman motifs and appealed to Generation Z's postlockdown sensibilities Meanwhile, Sohee Park, a 25-year-old just two years removed from her Central St Martin's graduation, became A/W Fashion Week's biggest star with a glamorous debut that incorporated centuries-old Korean folk art into designs that belong in the golden age of couture

Coverage on these collections and many more is included in Elyisum's comprehensive guide to Milan Fashion Week A/W 22-23. This issue also crosses the Alps to Paris; you'll find a feature on the five emerging designers who most impressed Elysium at Paris Men's Fashion Week S/S 23 Finally, I am excited to introduce special guest writer and consultant Diana Huk, a Ukraine-raised Antwerp-based model and influencer who will be lending her industry expertise and discerning aesthetic to some of our features moving forward

I wish you all an amazing start to 2023 I hope that, in this new year, you find your own unique blend of tradition and modernity always appreciating those that came before you, and the values they held dear, but remaining firmly focused on the future, and embracing the new ideas and exciting innovations that it holds.

Photo Credit: Daniel Iakovlevski

T h e H o t L i s t

BKK Social Club, Bangkok, Thailand: A grand Singaporestyle bar nestled in the Four Seasons and operated by former Manhattan GM Philip Bischoff, BKK Social Club brings glamorous Argentinian flare to the chaotic Thai capital Luxury ingredients, surprising flavor combinations, and rich backstories are behind every signature cocktail here For example, try the “Hand of God,” which combines tequila with a housemade Cacoa Malbec wine cordial in a cocktail inspired by legendary footballer Diego Maradona’s controversial goal agaisnt England in the 1986 World Cup. The Argentinian references are not just for show; Social Club has a comprehensive liquor selection from the vibrant South American country and creates drinks riffing off some of its most iconic flavors That said, I’d be hard-pressed to come here and not order the Bananazo, which combines the salinity of caviar with dark chocolate in perhaps the most decadent cocktail I’ve ever had

The Order: Bananazo: Michter's US 1 Straight Bourbon, Salted Ripe Banana, Chocolate Bitters, Caviar

Bar at Grand Hotel du Cap-Ferrat, Saint-Jean-CapFerrat, France: To walk through the Grand Hotel to its terraced bar is to enter an aristocratic sanctuary where a centuries-old tradition of white-glove service impresses even when contextualized against similar establishments in nearby Monaco. Le Bar specializes in champagne cocktails with the perfect balance of fizz and fruit to refresh on a scorching Riviera day The herbaceous housemade syrups (see hibiscus and Nepalese timut peppers) are standouts

The Order: La Vie en Rosé: Vodka, Rhubarb, Hibiscus & Flowers House Syrup, Champagne Rosé

Woo Bar at the W, Koh Samui, Thailand: Among the most picture-perfect venues on an island with many, Woo Bar seduces with its dramatic infinity pool and 270 view of Samui’s northern coast The lavender sunset here is stunning, particularly when viewed from a sunken couch French 75 in hand Woo Bar could charge Lebua-syle prices for mediocre cocktails and remain packed; thus I was overjoyed to find both boundary-pushing mixology and elite service. Presentations are as Instagrammable as the setting… try the floral “Loi Krathong ” (see below left)

The Order: Spiced, Bottled, and Marked: gin, dry vermouth, campari, blood orange liqueuer, goji berries, beal fruit, rosemary, thyme, dates

Creative Cocktails, Siem Reap, Cambodia: Never have I seen one mixologist do so much with so little Operated out of a truck on a small side street in Siem Reap, Creative Cocktails is the solo show of Renaissance man Krishna: business owner, menu designer, bartender, server, and one of the most infectiously vivacious people you'll ever meet. The drinks are not only the best I had in Cambodia but also are superior to many I’ve had at globally-ranked cocktail bars Krishna lets his imagination run wild behind the bar, a freespirited philosophy reflected not just in his rotating menu but also in customized drinks For me he riffed off his “Burn in Hell," a fierce tropical concoction that gets spicier with each sip and has a chili-salt rim. (below right)

The Order: Burn in Hell: Tequila, orange curacao, red chili, lime juice, passion fruit, mango juice, pineapple juice

Bar With Shapes for a Name, London, England: Yellow triangle, red square, blue circle Those are the only symbols outside this Shoreditch speakeasy but don’t be fooled by their simplicity or the austerity of the Bauhuasstyle space. Here less is more, and minimalist short drinks are packed with flavor in surprising combinations You’ll find peach yogurt, licorice, and oolong tea in the bar’s signature drinks: all ingredients that you would never guess based on texture or first sip alone The most memorable sips I’ve had here have been completely off-menu; bartender Jack Coppack works with some truly wild savory flavors and will passionately explain each experimental concoction you sample. The scene is lively and represents a fascinating cross-section of London life

The Order: Clarified Old-Fashioned: Green Spot Irish Whiskey, Knob Creek Bourbon, Quince Eau de Vie

Woo Bar, Koh Smaui, Thailand

Banazano at BKK Social Club

Bar with Shapes For a Name, London, UK

Woo Bar

Hand of God at BKK Social Club

Bar at Grand Hotel Cap-Ferrat

Anantara Hua Hin, Hua Hin, Thailand

The original Anantara hotel, built and landscaped in 2001 under designer Bill Bensley, the Anantara Hua Hin brings an unprecedented level of luxury to Thailand’s original royal resort area The Thai monarchs have been vacationing in Hua Hin since King Rama VII had Klai Kangwon Palace constructed in 1926 Just a three-hour drive south of Bangkok, and far off the normal tourist track (though the recent opening of a Standard property indicates that is changing) it’s a perfect beach retreat and a respite from the Thai tourist treadmill that is so hard to escape in destinations like Samui and Phuket There aren’t many particularly interesting activities in Hua Hin itself–but that’s irrelevant when everything you could wish for (including authentic cultural experiences) is ensconced within the gates of the Anantara My trip was focused on wellness I kept in shape with daily muay-thai classes, refreshed my muscles with intense Thai massages, started each morning with fresh papaya and dragon fruit, and savored such amenities as exquisite outdoor showers and a secluded steam room Dining options focus on locally sourced ingredients and recipes, with a special emphasis given to seafood caught just kilometers off the property’s beach What makes the Anantara most special, however, is the staff; from check-in to check-out they provided the most attentive, caring, and all-around flawless service I’ve had in recent memory. Cords neatly rolled up every time I left the room Personalized daily weather reports handwritten on banana leaves Chefs that could not only satisfy my spice tolerance but anticipated me with a selection of chili pastes at my table before each meal, These are the little things that reserve a property a special place in your heart

Anantara Riverside, Bangkok, Thailand:

As a natural product of the city’s century-long history as a business and tourist capital, most Bangkok hotels adhere to a set formula The most majestic properties, like the Four Seasons and Mandarin, boast Michelin-star restaurants, globally-ranked bars, and resort-style amenities on the east side of the Chao Phraya Sukhumvit, defined by the unlikely dichotomy of being a corporate and hipster hub, centers an area of on-trend business hotels Finally, properties such as the Waldorf-Astoria, Lebua, and Kempinski offer what I consider overrated luxury from an awkward position in the chaotic capital The Anantara Riverside is a refreshing break One of only two elite hotels on the Chao Phraya’s west bank, it is an urban oasis with spectacular pool and spa facilities and the most comfortable gym I’ve been to in Bangkok It’s fifteen minutes away from most of Bangkok’s activities: fifteen minutes spent cruising on the hotel’s historic private boat rather than weaving through traffic on the back of a motorbike or crawling along in a car The Riverside also notable for its art: spectacular elephant statues created by Mike Spits’ Elephant Parade line the property while miniature versions can be purchased to take home.

Belle Rive Boutique Hotel, Luang Prabang, Laos:

Colonial French manor? Pastel home on Rainbow Row in Charleston? Many associations came to mind when I drove up to this sleepy hotel in Luang Prabang and Southeast Asia certainly wasn’t one of them. However, the Belle Rive retains a distinctly local atmosphere in this harmonious and surprising town that is at once a relic of a bygone sociopolitical age and a center of rich cultural exchange A legacy of the long French presence in Laos (Laos officially gained independence with the dissolution of French Indochina in 1954) the refurbished hotel merges classic architecture with tasteful modern decor and a lobby that harkens back to the golden days of colonial Bangkok. The staff impart wisdom about their hometown with an infectious enthusiasm, even including a collaborative pocket guide to Laotian culture complete with “house recommendations ’ Luang Prabang is one of the most pedestrian-friendly cities I’ve been to and the Belle Rive leverages this for its guests by loaning out new bikes to explore the picturesque streets It also organized a private sunset cruise on the Mekong, one of the most memorable experiences of my Southeast Asia trip.

Welcome Plate at Anantara Chiang Mai

The Anantara Angkor, Siem Reap, Cambodia:

The automatic choice for anyone visiting Angkor Wat, the Anantara Siem Reap was the singular reason why I had a perfect experience in Cambodia this year. A boutique-style property, the smallest in the Anantara portfolio, the all-suite hotel has just 38 rooms and a profound sense of place No detail is too small; the entire architectural layout is modeled after one of the Angkor Wat temples Synthesizing the hotel’s interior with the experiences guests have outside its walls, details from the ceiling patterns to the pool shape to the furniture in the rooms all inspire reflection on ancient Angkor.

Equally importantly, the service makes one feel like a Khmer king I was greeted with a foot massage and locally made scarf upon arrival, small touches but great omens of things to come The entire staff was greeting me warmly by name from my first few moments at the property and from reception to the concierge to the GM (who checked in with me personally on several occasions), each person I interacted with was genuinely invested in giving me the best stay possible This extended to my touristic experiences My intense days of touring through Angkor National Park (which included a 4 am wake-up call and a couple of 12-hour marathon drives) were painless due to the hotel’s luxury tuktuk and my enthusiastic driver, who greeted me with a wet towel and cold water each time I returned to the vehicle from a temple.

I greatly enjoyed every meal here For an authentic experience in a luxury setting, request the hotel’s exotic Cambodia menu the traditional stuffed frogs and deep fried cricket salad (a favorite of Angelina Jolie) were my two favorite local delicacies Additionally, be sure to take advantage of the “dining by design” offerings and have a barbecue night. I had the opportunity to grill a delectable selection of octopus, shrimp, squid, and beef tableside; all was served with a hyper-local array of spice pastes so memorable that I purchased a mini cookbook to take back home

Anantara Chiang Mai, Chiang Mai, Thailand

Divided into the standard hotel (currently undergoing renovations) and a set of spacious and beautifully designed serviced suites, the Anantara Chiang Mai bridges the gap between city hotel and resort Perched on the banks of the Mekong, the hotel yields views of both the peaceful river and chaotic modern city from its rooftop pool and relaxing breakfast terrace (see below) One must-have experience is dinner at the in-house restaurant Service 1921 Located in the former British Consulate building, once the center of much intrigue, it is built around a “secret agent concept” best showcased by the cabinets of rare wines and liquors from around the world Northern Thai specialties are expertly prepared here but most memorable is the cocktail list, which includes a variety of infused vodkas and a red velvet whiskey sour My recommendation? Enjoy a Prince of Wales nightcap and then head up to your room to enjoy an elite bathtub set-up with some of your in-room rambutan.

Anantara Chiang Mai

May: Young Right Now, Robin Schulz & Dennis Lloyd

The perfect song to scream from a convertible with your best friends The sexy Dennis Lloyd hook will bring you right back to those long vacations from school or college, reminding you to savor every moment of youth, freedom, and nights that never seem to end

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June: Ferrari, James Hype, Miggy dela Rosa, Lazza

Play me the first few notes of this song and I’ll be transplanted to Jimmy’z at 2 am, right before the club ramps up The perfect blend of a hip–hop beat, a pop hook, and an edm synth, it transcends genre and taste to become an international call to sun, sex, and sea

July: Massive, Drake: Drake continued to show his musical sophistiication and remarkable versatility when he released his surprise album this June The rapper took a total 180 by blending his moody lyrics with strong house and electro influences; it’s a full commitment to the sound that he hinted at years ago in “One Dance ” Massive has a certain sensuality that’s ideal for evenings at a club or lazy rose-soaked afternoons at the beach

September: Portofino, Josh Stanley: We’ve all heard the Andrea Bocelli classic “I Found My Love in Portofino ” What’s shocking, given its namesake town's reputation for glamor and hedonism, is that no one created a club remix until 2022 From the writer of the hopelessly catchy “Sass Cafe,” this song ’ s Latin-inspired beat will have you dancing (and booking a Ligurian Riviera trip) each time it comes on.

Deep House Pick: Broken Mind Embassy, Jan Blomqvist: From German deep House DJ Jan Blomqvist’s outstanding “Disconnected” album Strong Bristol After Dark during Paris Fashion Week vibes and the perfect song to play at midnight wherever the evening takes you

Throwback Pick: Concert Pitch, Empire of the Sun: Empire of the Sun made an unexpected return to my playlists this summer; the Ice on the Dune album in particular sets an infectiously happy and carefree vibe

August:

Is This What It Feels Like to Feel Like

This, the Wombats: “Ecstasy, tragedy, doom ” There’s no better (or more “Wombats’) lyric to draw one in to the title single of the Wombats’ new EP, which is set for release November 18th It was a big year for hte British indie rock band following the release of their “Fix Yorself Not the World” album, but if this song about “champagne and an overnight kit” is any indication there’s even greater things to come.

Rap Pick: Bugatti, Morgenshtern & Arut: Morgenshtern’s last big single before “blacking out’ his Instagram a la Taylor Swift in preparation for a November album release, This song returns to the rapper ’ s roots; the rhythm recalls “Cadillac and “Ratatatata ” It also is a coming-out party for Uzbek rapper/business tycoon Arut

Club Anthem Pick: abcdefu, Gayle: From the DJ Dark & Menthol version to Fat Tony to Two Friends & the Big Bootie Mix, this song was an EDM darling this year The pure anger and conviction of the chorus that makes it a good candidate for any mix.

Pop Pick: Oh No! Pony Pony Run Run: An upbeat track from a French “ power pop ” group, this gem from the “Voyage Voyage” album is the perfect choice for morning motivation or prepping a night out Think “The Wanted ”

Folk Pick: Big Jet Plane, Angus & Julie Stone: A 2009 song that feels like it could have been written in 1979, Big Jet Plane is at once hopeful, peceaful, nostalgic, and melancholy Play it by the fireside over nigthcaps this fall

New Artist Discovery: Yashma, Paster: Parviz Guluzade, one of Azerbaijan’s most popular rappers, was blowing up the airwaves with this explosive single during my recent trip to Baku. A patriotic anthem, it bears stylistic resemblance to Morgenshtern, Travis Scott, and MGK.

Snowing in Bali, Kathryn Bonella: Bali, Indonesia…for most people it recalls exquisite beaches, five-star hotels, and laid-back surf culture These things inevitably make Bali a haven for the international jet set and a fast life of luxury, drugs, and partying which in turns creates the perfect conditions for a lucrative but dangerous criminal underworld British author Kathryn Bonella, who originally gained access to that underworld through her reporting on the infamous Indonesian prison “Hotel K,” takes us deep inside the Balinese drug trade with this often-lurid, always credible, and completely addictive page-turner It’s a story of humanity more than of drugs or Bali Bonella had corresponded with her subjects for years before writing this book and paints vivid and sympathetic portrayals of a global cast of characters (from Brazil to France to Australia) who made and lost their fortunes through Balinese " snow " Rich and poor, natives and immigrants, wanting a quick adrenaline rush or financial stability, desperate to provide for their families or for easy sex all were driven to this island by base human instincts Read the book and judge these characters for themselves But know that Bonella makes one thing clear: there is no good and evil, only five thousand shades of complicated

The Holcroft Covenant, Robert Ludlum: One of the most complex novels I’ve read in recent memory, the Holcroft Covenant takes on an ambitious scope even for its 500+ pages Published in 1978, the story begins when a young American architect, the son of a Nazi general, is informed of a highly secretive document that gives him, along with other descendants of Nazi leadership, responsibility to distribute vast sums of money This sets in motion a global goose chase with vast historical significance. Title character Noel Holcroft encounters a litany of ruthless groups intent on stopping the covenant from being enacted and readers aren’t sure who is on his side until the book’s devastating conclusion You won’t be satisfied with this read But this is "Cold War thriller" at is best; you will definitely be entertained and begging for a sequel

The Mister, E.L. James: The latest sensation from the author of Fifty Shades of Grey, the Mister is the perfect guilty pleasure beach read: fast-paced, seductive, and with enough subplots to keep you guessing until the final page The story takes us from central London to a stately British manor to the Albanian countryside alongside two increasingly complex protagonists who, partially due to their unconditional love for each other, are impossible not to empathize with.

The Museum of Innocence, Orhan Pamuk: A heartwrenching look at love, loss, and obsession, in addition to an exquisitely detailed window into upper-class Istanbul life in last century Based on a true story, the Museum of Innocence is the result of a decade of conversations between Nobelwinning Orhan Pamuk and this book’s protagonist, Kemal Told in the first-person from Kemal’s perspective, it recounts his melodramatic and ultimately tragic love affair with distant relation Fusun. After eight years of courtship (during which time Fusun was married to another man), the couple were finally united only to be parted by an unnecessary death The book corresponds to a physical space in Istanbul; in accordance with the deceased Kemal’s wishes, Pamuk turned his apartment into a memorial museum to his love The novel is structured around keepsakes displayed here, and, for the historians among us, contains a profound discourse on memory and the ultimate purpose of museums.

Tears of Anatolia; Our Historical Artifacts that Were Taken Abroad, Yasar Yilmaz: We’ve all heard of the controversy involving Ancient Greek artifacts in Britain However, almost no international attention has been directed towards the priceless ancient Turkish artifacts in Western museums Turkey, birthplace of the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, is part of the Cradle of Humanity. From Gobeklitepe (considered the oldest temple in the world) to Ephesus (once the Mediterranean’s biggest commercial center), it boasts some of the ancient world’s most important sites and now has the archaeological and touristic infrastructure to preserve and exhibit their treasures However, particularly with regards to the Anatolian heartland, many of those treasures were plundered and taken abroad in the past couple of centuries. Yilmaz’s unprecedented work draws attention to this problematic paradigm, celebrating Anatolian history while providing a thorough compendium, museum-bymuseum, of artifacts now spread out from Copenhagen to Cleveland

The Mind-Gut Connection, Emeran Meyer: Did you know that there are over 100 million nerve cells in our digestive system? And that our stomach, through constant communication with our brain, plays a critical role in regulating our emotions, thoughts, and overall well-being? Emeran Meyer’s eye-opening book is a must-read for those who have never considered the importance of food choices It emphasizes the importance of making conscious decisions as to what we put in our bodies, demonstrating the nonseverable links between diet and mental well-being Described by one of Elysium's best friends as life-changing.

MOCA, Bangkok, Thailand: Thailand’s vibrant modern art scene, inexplicably ignored by many Western galleries, is best explored at MOCA, a state-of-the-art museum located just a few kilometers from Don Muang Airport The museum is known for the instagrammable sculptural installations in its courtyard; however, the true treasure trove is the expertly-curated four floors of galleries Of particular note is the expansive space dedicated to National Artist Thawan Duchanee Duchanee’s striking works, based on a color palette of black, white, and red and liberally incorporating gold leaf, exude both primal ferocity and profound vulnerability Animals are the dominant theme; most paintings contain a collage of fantastical creatures across between tiger and eagle, snake and mollusk, toucan and wombat “Everything in this world has two sides good bad, darkness and brightness, weakness and strength,” Duchanee explains “I make them into one painting ” Another highlight of the museum is “the Three Kingdoms:" visitors are invited to consider epically proportioned depictions of Heaven, Earth, Hell, each by a different artist, from an all-white space

Gobeklitepe, Sanliurfa, Turkey: For centuries historians have assumed that human civilization was organized around religion, with towns and tribes being forged as a product of shared beliefs. Gobeklitepe, dating to 8500 BC and considered the oldest temple in the world, is turning that perception on its head While appearing to have at least some religious function, it was more importantly a center for community gatherings, its very construction proving a level of social organization thought non-existent at the time “What if,” Turkish archaeologists are now positing, "religion is a product of community rather than the other way around?" There’s lots of digging to do before that question is answered; it’s estimated that just 3% of the Gobeklitepe site has been excavated thus far But in the meantime, a state of the art museum, 30 km outside Sanliurfa, invites visitors to examine the available data and draw their own conclusions You can view the excavation sites from an ingenious covered walkway; pay attention to the pictographs which are among the oldest animal depictions (real and mythological) in the world.

National Thai Art Gallery, Bangkok, Thailand: "Your Country Your Architecture,” an initiative in partnership with the Royal Photographic Society of Thailand, invited photographers from across Asia to depict their country's rchitecture, historic & modern, through their unique

perspectives The result is surreal portrayals of ordinary scenes; they capture daily rhythms while hinting at the ephemerality of human life compared to the legacies of those who came beforw The most impressive contributions were from Min Thu Aung & Nilar Win of Myanmar

APOPO Visitor Center, Siem Reap, Cambodia: The Vietnam War may have ended 50 years ago but thousands of American land mines remain in Cambodia and cause freak deaths each year. Clearing land mines is a long and arduous task but Cambodia's mission has been aided by unlikely heroes: African Giant Pouched rats! Trained in Tanzania, the rats have served in Cambodia for many years meticulously sniffing plots of land for bombs and in doing so maximizing efficiency and minimizing risk for their companion humans and dogs For example, one rat, Magawa, singlehandedly cleared 2 4 million square feet of land and found 109 unexplored items. The organisation that oversees the rats, APOPO, maintains a museum and education center in Siem Reap; during my visit there I learned about the land mine crisis, met and held the rats, and even saw a demonstration of them clearing a plot first hand

MUCEM, Marseille, France: Creating the Museum of the Mediterranean was a daunting task How does one delineate what best fits into the broad topic of “Mediterranean culture and history?” And how does one connect the museum ’ s home city of Marseille to its broader narrative? These questions were answered masterfully MUCEM gracefully harmonizes its exhibits just as it it did its two seemingly dichotomous spaces: the restored Fort Saint Jean, originally dated to 1660, and the futuristic J4 building, a spellbinding creation of Rudy Ricciotti and Roland Carta Take its exhibition on the "Mediterranean diet," (fun fact: the term was invented in Minneapolis in 1947), which, from couscous production in North Africa to chestnut harvests in Turkey, celebrates the rich and diverse traditions of many unique cuisines It also discusses the health benefits and sustainability challenges that will shape these cuisines in the future Another must-see is the case study of seven Mediterranean metropolises: Venice, Casablanca, Tangier-Tetouan, Athens, Cairo, Istanbul, and Marseille. Each occupies a unique geopolitical and cultural position around the Med but faces similar challenges ahead: from overpopulation to water shortages to new technologies to shifting industries The exhibition emphasizes how each city’s historical development has forged its identity while creating a path for further progression and innovative site-specific 21st century solutions (pictured above)

MUCEM, Marseille

MOCA, Bangkok

Thawan Duchanee, MOCA

Thawan Duchanee, MOCA

From Michelin-starred dining in Bangkok to street food in Chiang Mai, Elysium's guide to the best flavors of the vibrant Southeast Asian country.

Khao Ekkamai, Bangkok: Boasting the most encyclopedic menu of any Michelin-starred restaruant in Bangkok, Khao Ekkamai stylishly presents traditional Thai dishes in an airy modern setting Must-orders include the namphrik khai pu (crab roe served with boiled vegetables), and the pad kra pad (a stir-fired squid dish.) Get a curry for the table, preferably the Gang Lueang Pla Grabok Gub Malakor (a southern orange curry based on gray mullet and papaya)

Thip Samai, Bangkok: Pad Thai is one of the most universally loved Thai dishes; what few know is it's actually a relatively recent addition to the Thai culinary repertoire It was invented at the initiative of Thai defense minister Plaek Phibunsongkhram in the 1930's;; as part of his mission to build a national consciousness he held a contest to create a dieh that was uniquely Thai Pad Thai was the result, and it reached unprecedented popularity during World War II when the Japanese invasion led to a shortage of rice and an emphasis on local ingredients Thip Samai was the most popular purveyor of dish and the first to serve it with an egg omelette; today when Thais refer to "Pad Thai" they're talking about the Thip Samai version. The original restaurant is still open and serving its iconic dish with fresh orange juice; come early to avoid a line

Yu Ting Yuan, Bangkok: Authentic Cantonese food with luxe ingredients in a dramatic Four Seasons setting? Count us in The most memorable dinner on my recent trip to Bangkok was here: pungent marinated jellyfish with sesame oil was followed by melt-in-your-mouth crab with an asparagus cream sauce The foie gras and black truffle rice is an essential accompaniment

R.Haan: This tasting-menu-only two-Michelin starred gem takes guests on an epic fifteen-"moment" journey through local ingredients and classic Thai flavors This is haute cuisine that expresses the chef's pesrsonality and creativity through delicately balancing tradition and experimentation. I fell in love with the Ayutthaya river prawn tom yum (prepared with a coffee siphon) and a sticky rice experience that featured three distinctly-flavored types of mango .

Khao Soi Loong Prakid Gard Gorm, Chiang Mai: This street food spot, like many in Chiang Mai, serves exclusively Khao soi: a mild and flavorful coconut curry topped with crispy noodles Choose your protein from the welcoming proprietor, take a seat in the chaotic space, and enjoy one of the most memorable and tasty meals you can find in the northern Thai city Don't forget to experiment with the many chili oils on hand

The Jungle Club, Koh Samui: Half the fun of the Jungle Club is getting there; located on a forested mountain high above Koh Samui it requires an ATV sent specially by the restaurant or a *very* bumpy motorcycle ride You won't find a better view, a more comfortable lunch (many of the tables have beanbag chairs) or a more Instagrammable mango sticky rice (see photo above)

Krua Bophut, Koh Samui: Food in touristic Fisherman's Village is hit and miss but you'll never go wrong at Krua Bophut; the chefs don't compromise flavors or spice level for the "Western palette " My go-to is the khua kling, a dry beef curry that can hold up to extreme amounts of chili Oh, and did I mention you eat with your feet in the sand?

Chi, Koh Samui: A new concept restaurant with a champagne and wine list worthy of St. Tropez, Chi brings a refreshing Mediterranean-style club vibe to the shores of Samui Cannabis-flavored products are having a massive moment in Thailand right now and Chi fully embraces the movement; you'll find everything from cannabis truffle pizza to CBD lemonades and margaritas Most impressive for me were the Tom Kha Chi and Tom Yum Chi, cocktail interpretations of the culinary classics that mark the first time I've seen coconut milk used effectively in mixology.

Issara Cafe, Hua Hin: The breakfast destination at the Anantara Hua Hin, Issara delights with its traditional Thai desserts, Vietamese-style fried eggs, and a delectable pandan syrup that pairs well with papaya, pancakes, or pastries The best breakfasts I've eaten in Thailand

Methavalai Sorndaeng, Bangkok: A white-tablecloth spot that's been in business for over 60 years (and now is Michelin-starred), Methavalai Sorndaeng is a legendary local hangout with live 80's Thai music The pad thai is the spiciest I've ever had

D e s t i n a t i o n o f t h e S e a s o n :

K o h S a m u i & B a n g k o k , T h a i l a n d

W a n t y o u r f a v o r i t e d e s t i n a t i o n , s o n g , o r b o o k o n t h e E l y s i u m H o t L i s t ? K n o w a n y w h e r e w e s h o u l d h e a r a b o u t ?

C o n n e c t w i t h u s o n I n s t a g r a m a t @ w o r l d o f e l y s i u m O r g e t i n t o u c h a t e l y s i u m c o c k t a i l c l u b @ g m a i l . c o m Y o u c o u l d b e f e a t u r e d i n t h e n e x t e d i t i o n o f E l y s i u m m a g a z i n e !

'From ginger tea to French 75. Only this kind of drinks for me during the winter.'

'You will never see me without a jade face roller. Basically, this is my best friend any time of the year '

D R EA M I N G

WITH DIANA

The World of Elysium asked digital creator Diana Huk about her latest winter essentials.

'It can be difficult to find a bag where all winter essentials can fit. Right now I'm in love with this cloudy bag from Guess.'

'Pleasure for your hair lies not only in a silky shampoo or a perfect conditioner. My little secret is a hair perfume.'

'An adjustable ring from Orxata, another amazing Ukrainian brand, is just a musthave: always comfortable, and so chic!'

'Keeping myself fashionably warm in these boots from Richmond '

'Since the war in Ukraine broke out, Vyshyvanka from ANNABO became a symbolic piece in my garderobe.'

'I think every woman deserves to have her basics. My fundamental basic is a trench from the Ukrainian brand, Kolosova '

Spotlight:Ukrainiian Fashion

KOLOSOVA: Classic trenches made with eco leather

VIKA ADAMSKAYA: Funky yet comfortable knitwear

IVA: Elegant rings and earrings from Cartier alum Irina Volenskaya:

VIKELE STUDIO: Black transformer bag is an everday essential

Fashion beyond borde:rs

a Canadian, Ukrainian, and Iranian attend the Emerging Talents presentation together

Meet Sohee Park: the biggest surprise of this Milan Fashion Week, and, emerging star categorizations aside, the designer of Elysium's pick for most impressive collection overall. The 25-year old Korean designer, a grad of Central St. Martin’s, made her fashion week debut before an exclusive crowd utterly captivated by the masterful craftsmanship, vivid colors, and stunning jewels that defined every one of her couture pieces

This said, Park was anything but a surprise to Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabanna, the fashion royalty who funded this collection and launched its creator on the Milano stage Dolce and Gabanna have a rich history of providing a platform for young designers, whether this be through collaborative collections, media support, selling their products in the Spiga 2 D & G concept store, or organizing them a spot on the illustrious Camera Moda calendar. Park was their biggest coup yet, the Milan presentation marking the culmination of a meteoric rise that took less than two years and is doubtless just the beginning of a new story arc through the fashion stratosphere.

Park first caught D & G's attention in Spring 2020, just a couple of months after Covid began, when the UK lockdown necessitated the cancellation of her Central St Martin’s graduation show Frustrated and bored, she decided to upload some photos of her collection, “The Girl in Full Bloom” on Instagram The floral-inspired ensemble, each unique piece informed by Sohee’s childhood love of illustration as well as her fashion training, went viral. This college collection, presented in a lookbook as professional and inspired as that of the most of the most established brand, was soon gracing the covers of magazines. Sohee told Vogue in 2021: “Couture shouldn’t just be for big fashion houses with an atelier in Paris, it’s about the craftsmanship and artistry. We’re in a world where there’s so much mass-produced clothing creating unnecessary waste, so I hope to see more young couturiers in the future who go against this ”

That she developed this attitude as a student, and designed “Girl in Full Bloom” independently without the human and financial resources of the aforementioned “big fashion houses,” is remarkable and it would soon earn her access to an illustrious market of both models and sponsors.

A who’s who of celebrities had worn her gowns to major events before she even appeared of a fashion week: Gigi and Bella Hadid, Naomi Campbell, and Ariana Grande to name a few Miley Cyrus shot her Midnight Sky music video in one of Sohee’s original Girl in Full Bloom dresses just weeks after they debuted online Cardi B drew international attention to her custom headwear when she appeared in it on her Billboard Woman of the Year cover. By the time Taylor Hill and Chloe Fineman wore Park's designs at the 2022 Met Gala, she had officially transitioned from fashion world secret to household name.

Fineman and Hill’s gowns were most notable for their inordinately long and undeniably extravagant trains, garnering “best look” awards in my annual group chat commentaries from both industry insiders who were intimately familiar with Park’s work and casual fashion followers who hadn’t previously heard of her I had the pleasure of examining Hill and Fineman’s gowns in person at the February Milano presentation and can confirm that they are even more dazzling close-up than in the digitally perfected paparazzi photos Park’s attention to detail is beyond reproach: from patterns to materials to stitching there’s not a component of her garments that slips below her impeccable standards. Her talent and vision combined with the support of Dolce & Gabanna, who spared no expense on sourcing the finest materials for the Milano collection, is a recipe for luxury fashion at its almost anachronistic best.

As I walked into Sohee’s inaugural presentation, given under the eponymous label Miss Sohee, it was the embroidery, jewels, and countless Swarovski crystals that impressed me most All the embellishments were added by hand many by Sohee personally Looking at the intricate designs, one would never guess that she was almost entirely self-trained “I was always hungry to learn new things and spent a lot of time watching Youtube tutorials of old ladies sewing and embroidering,” she has told Vogue Hong Kong. It’s this curiosity, independence, and entrepreneurial spirit that has been critical to her success, and that Dolce and Gabanna gave free rein to thrive. “Domenico and Stefano gave me complete freedom to create my collection and realize my vision,” she said.

As worn by Gigi Hadid in June 2022

As worn by Taylor Fineman at the 2022 Met Gala

D & G also gave her their full support as she sought to represent her values through her designs. “With each collection, I try to push myself to work with sustainable materials,” Park said in the same Vogue HK interview. “This season, we used Abaca fabric sourced from the same banana tree family we utilized last season and teamed up with the Alta Mode team at Dolce & Gabanna to create beautiful shoes from pineapple leather We also used Hansan Moss from the Hansan region of South Korea Recognized for its unique weaving, it is one of the country’s oldest textiles and is inscribed in UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage List It is made from locally sourced Ramie [a linen-type plant in the nettle family]. In addition, the collection was made from mostly upcycled fabrics used from the Dolce & Gabanna archive.”

This quote offers an excellent encapsulation of two common threads throughout Sohee’s collection: sustainability and her South Korean heritage. A cornucopia of vivid colors dominated the presentation: from fuchsia to peacock green to bright blue to fire engine red, almost every gown was blindingly bright The designs matched the tropical color scheme; white Bengal tigers starred on a couple of pieces and there were allusions to peacocks, leopards, and seashells in the adornments, embroidery, and headwear

All of this reflects the ancient Korean folk art of Minhwa, which fittingly, given Sohee’s own self-taught background, was historically was made by artists and artisans without formal training. Translating directly to “the art of the people,” Minhwa is a descriptive term for a wide range of decorative art pieces inspired by Korean mythology and symbolism and intended for everyday use within the home. Popular throughout the six-century Chosun era (1392-1910) and then briefly again after World War II, it has been resuscitated for the modern era, with a deep respect for tradition and a deeply personal motivation, by Sohee “I really wanted to explore and show the beauty of Minhwa as I experienced it,” she said “ They were painted by unknown and anonymous artists untrained locals who told their life stories through these paintings Elements and motifs such as tigers, magpies, butterflies, sea waves, the sun, the moon, mountains and flowers are often seen through Minhwa, which I translated into embroidery on big sculptural silhouettes.”

On my second walk-through of the collection, it was the somewhat surprising but ever-present references to the ocean that caught my attention. Sea shells, coral, and sea plants, in their many forms and patterns, were reflected by the overall silhouettes of the garments, several dramatic headpieces, and almost every floral design. This was no coincidence Sohee conceived many of her current works while at her grandmother’s house during Covid: a time during which she reflected upon her childhood memories and pondered her sense of physical place Her grandmother lived near Jeju Island, a place of almost mystical importance in the Korean psyche where ancient traditions remain alive to this day One such tradition is that of the “Haenyo:” older women who dive into the sea, without oxygen or modern equipment, to harvest shellfish using generations-old methods (a la Les Pecheurs des Perles). Sohee’s first encounter with a haenyo left a major impression. “She was coming back to shore in her black scuba diving suit with all these corals, shellfish, and other treasures that she had found,” the designer explained. “That was very inspiring; she looked like some mythical creature.”

February 2022 in Milan Sohee create her own myth in Milan One opulent dress, in a delicate shade of pink, directly evoked Botticelli’s Birth of Venus This piece, perhaps inspired by encounters with the haenyo, was both prescient and metaphorical First presented during its Sohee’s coronation in the fashion world, and at the birth of her Miss Sohee brand, it represented many of the attributes that garnered its creator international acclaim. Yet it also stands at the relative beginning of this remarkable couturier's journey.

GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI

It may have been autumnl/winter fashion week but that didn’t stop Giuseppe Zanotti from having fun with vibrant colors in his most recent collection. A well-rounded ensemble that covered the spectrum from bejeweled thigh-highs to Ugg-style booties, this season of Zanotti was playfully flirtatious while maintaining both cold-weather functionality and the designer’s iconic glamor Titled “an ode to self-love,” the collection was, in Zanotti’s words, “sexy and unapologetic ” These were self-assured shoes designed for confident personalities: whether furry slippers or rhinestone studded heels, each piece had a certain aplomb.

From the women’s collection, it was the velvet “Bebe” heels that stood out most to Elysium. Offered in black, bright fuchsia, and ocean blue, these chunky heels had a certain substantiveness, in both texture and shape, perfect for a freezing winter night. Feminine, powerful-looking, and luxurious, they were the epitome of the assertive yet charming Zanotti aesthetic and would not look out of place on any red carpet For those who prefer a little more glitter, the satin Bebe Strass was covered in rhinestones on both the platform and heel Reminiscent of the late 80’s/early 90’s disco era, a common theme both musically and stylistically in Italy right now, these were the showstoppers drawing the highest concentration of photographers and influencers at the Zanotti event.

Continuing with the disco theme, the chunky patent leather Morgana boot, available in neon blue, cherry red, and black with the rhinestone-stutter Strass heel and platform, was the most dazzling cold-weather boot I saw all season. Jumping a decade ahead the Amaia chain, a furry stiletto boot in shocking pink, would have been the envy of Paris Hilton in her early 2000’s glory days

The men’s collection was stellar all-around While bold sneakers and sandals are normally the pinnacle of each Zanotti season, this year saw loafers and bold boots steal the show Particularly memorable were the Alvaro stud loafers presented in blue, black, and bottle green velvet with a variety of iridescent studs. For staples, Zanotti presented a number of statement black and gold sneakers that I deem nightlife essentials this season.

K R I Z I A

Antonio D’Anna continued his passionate exploration of Krizia’s history for Fall/Winter 2022, creating a unique synthesis of tradition and modernity by adapting elements from the brand’s archives to current styles and techniques. Following up a spectacular Summer collection that emphasized deconstruction and ornamentation, D’Anna focused on pleats and the texture of raw materials in designing a graceful and diverse set of winter looks meant for versatile women.

As D’Anna explained the inspiration for the collection, a recurring reference point was ‘brutalism ” D’Anna’s methodical design process seems to start from the details; thus it’s not surprising that this brutalist influence was most evident when one examined the garments’ ornamentations at close range Uniquely textured bags were covered with an uneven multicolored pebble surface. Bold silver and black ear rings referenced both metal as a raw material and the steel wire brushes used to “finish” it before use. The color palette, dominated by tans and grays, invoked analogies to raw wood and concrete; meanwhile deconstructed components of substantively structured garments hinted at industrial processes.

In many ways this collection represents a sort of postmodern self-actualization for Krizia Through intentionally designing components of precisely constructed garments to appear unfinished, D’Anna has found the ethos of imperfection beyond perfection Picasso once said “Learn the rules like a pro so you can break them like an artist ” D’Anna is better described as an architect but the point stands: the combination of traditional designs with an a destroyed aesthetic has allowed him to operate on his own plane of “avant-garde classicism.”

This could only be achieved who someone who deeply understands and respects decades of adverse fashions. It’s the essence of Issey Miyake and Givenchy merged… in a way that doesn’t offend adherents of either’s philosophy. It transcends generations and tastes. And it’s unparalleled in the Italian fashion scene at the moment

This paradigm is best encapsulated by the fact that those unfamiliar with D’Anna’s work would likely have failed to guess the “brutalism” inspiration. The collection is sleek and feminine almost in spite of itself, with rigid structure balancing delicate materials and seductive details softening masculine silhouettes D’Anna explained how the oeuvre is a study in hyper-masculine and hypermasculine contrasts transparent silk and soothing shades of pink and aquamarine are placed next to broadshouldered jackets and a fire engine red sweater Often masculine and feminine are combined in a single look; take the traditional men’s tuxedo shirt presented in slinky transparent black tuile.

Metal fastenings were the common thread in Krizia’s last collection and they remained noticeable in this one (a double-looped black belt around a sea foam green dress and the zipper on an asymmetrical mohair garment were particularly memorable). However, it was pleats, and a thorough exploration of their modern variations, that truly anchored Fall/Winter 2022. D’Anna played with materials and techniques: double pleats bonded with wool highlighted a couple of coats while an irregularlypleated dress of Japanese polyester was a showpiece The designer was at his best combining regular and irregular pleats in one garment; the result was controlled chaos that felt both raw and sophisticated

The photographer in me delighted in imagining photo shoot locations for this collection The lookbook itself depicted relatively non-descript locations that effectively captured the collection’s unlikely marriage of grit and grace Concrete and wood were omnipresent Several photos seemed to pair an infinity pool with a cold and barren landscape The Black Sea, and the sleek modern architecture that has recently revitalized its resorts, was instantly called to mind…the melancholic romance of winter in Odessa or Batumi matched the personality of the clothes and their presentation. Wide-legged pants were contrasted by pleated Gaultier-reminiscent “bras;” who says one can’t combine hardiness and fragility in a cold but beautiful setting?

A creative collection both adherent to Krizia’s DNA and unique within the overall F/W 2022 landscape, D’Anna’s latest collection is an incontrovertible triumph Versatile and elegant, it will provide staples for a variety of scenes and settings this upcoming season

From Krizia F/W 2023 Lookbook

"For us, beauty is handmade, respecting nature and merging tradition with a future-focused approach."

-Rodo Mission Statement

TThe first photos I saw of the Rodo factory in Mogliano took my breath away The picturesque village is nestled in the hills of the Marche reason, just southwest of Ancona

It's 25 kilometers from the sea and 27 kilometers form the mountains; you quite literally can ski and go to the beach on the same day. Add in the rolling olive-tree lined hills between those two landscapes and you have the best of Italy in a microregion

With this for daily inspiration it’s no surprise that Rodo has always focused on nature The story began in 1956 when Romualdo Dori, current CEO Gianni Dori’s father, turned utilitarian to fashionable through interpreting traditional wicker and straw bags for a cosmopolitan Florentine crowd The brand soon expanded into bejeweled evening wear collections and has long maintained this dual nature. And, while updating styles according to modern trends and techniques, it has also maintained the passion, tradition, and utter refusal to compromise on quality that are central to Rodo's identity.

Everything at Rodo is hand-crafted; there are no shortcuts. Just as the design responsibilities have been passed from Romualdo to Gianni to Gianni’s son and niece, responsibilities for physically constructing the shoes have passed from generation to generation The brand has hired 20-30 young new craftspeople in the past few years; they will undergo a several-season “apprenticeship” process under the current masters to ensure they understand the “Rodo way” and keep long-lasting traditions alive Gianni told me: “there are very, very few brands, even in Italy, that are still doing things they way we are.” Rodo is a family affair; a labor of love; the culture is for workers to stay with the brand for a long time and exhibit the same care and attention to detail that exemplified Italian design long before “mass marketing and fast fashion.”

Tradition and modern activism are not mutually exclusive. Rodo’s Fall.Winter 2022 collection conversed with climate change and the melting polar regions; the evening wear portion was inspired by snow and ice and presented in an exquisite “winter fairy tale” setting Gold shoes and bags were adorned with glacial blue jewels and clasps The white gem-encrusted Alissa heel, made of lambskin mesh, looked exactly like snow glistening in the sunlight

Meanwhile, the Dafne and Sveva models, in a vivid blue, recalled the iconic Thierry Mugler photos of a model in a similarly-colored dress reclining upon an ice floe

Jena Goldsack, the face of this collection, looked dazzling at the presentation in a delicate white dress and a shimmering mini bag worn casually as a necklace However, she was there as far more than just a model. A passionate environmental activist, Goldsack was the perfect representative and partner for the message Rodo was attempting to convey this season. Goldsack has channeled much of her energy into raising awareness about the melting polar regions and helping to protect the animals that call them home. A Sea Life Trust ambassador since 2019, Goldsack was involved in the foundation of the world’s first beluga whale sanctuary located in Klettsvick Bay in Iceland The sanctuary rescues whales that have been in captivity and reintegrates them into the wild in a controlled environment that mirrors their natural habitat It has space for ten whales in its 32,000 square meter space, the first two of which, Little White and Little Grey, were saved from a Shanghai water park three years ago Also involved in puffin rescue, and connected to the Cornish Seal Sanctuary, which rehabilitates 65 seals every year, the Sea Life Trust occupies a leadership position within the conservation space and, partially thanks to the international exposure Goldsack provided it, is poised for rapid expansion. It’s a similar leadership position to what Rodo could claim in the Italian fashion industry; for this respected brand to engage with sustainability and provide a platform for wildlife conservation speaks volumes.

The day wear section of this season’s presentation, while obviously more reserved, was just as impressive as the sparkling winter wonderland A rich autumnal burgundy starred on the versatile Coco Block loafer, the forceful Nia boot, and the casually chic Agatha bag Tan also stood out on a number of bags and some understated suede kneehighs

Back at the Rodo factory, in this medieval-style oasis between the mountains and sea, the rhythm of life goes on. This is a brand with a deep connection to place and emphasis on family. It’s also a brand that has taken on an active role in promoting the preservation of said places for future generations. And that’s a story as compelling as any fairytale.

CEO Gianni Dori

SIMONETTA & THE STEPPE

Mongolian-Inspired Collection Signals Change of Direction for Revitalized Simonetta Ravizza

S i m o n e t t a R a v i z z a ’ s F / W 2 2 c o l l e c t i o n w a s a t r i u m p h , i n d e e d a c o m p l e t e 1 8 0 f o r a b r a n d i n d e s p e r a t e n e e d o f a t u r n a r o u n d . I f o u n d R a v i z z a ’ s l a s t c o l l e c t i o n d e e p l y u n i m p r e s s i v e . T h e a m b u t u o u s v i s i o n , w h i l e p r o m i s i n g , w a s p o o r l y a n d i n c o h e r e n t l y e x e c u t e d , t h e r e s u l t a w a r d r o b e t h a t f e l t s c a t t e r e d i n a g a r i s h w a y A n e x c e s s o f d i f f e r e n t a n i m a l p r i n t s a n d t e x t u r e s c o m p r i s e d a t h r i f t s h o p - e s q u e c a c o p h o n y , a n d a n y i t e m t h a t w o u l d s t a n d w e l l o n i t s o w n w a s t u r n e d t a c k y b y i t s s u r r o u n d i n g e n s e m b l e F a l l / W i n t e r 2 0 2 2 , w h i c h R a v i z z a h e r s e l f a c k n o w l e d g e d w a s a m a j o r s h i f t f o r t h e b r a n d , d e m o n s t r a t e d a r e n e w e d f o c u s T h e c o l l e c t i o n w a s s t r e a m l i n e d a n d p a r e d d o w n c o m p a r e d t o p a s t y e a r s ; t h e d e s i g n e r s t a y e d t r u e t o t h e c o r e a s p e c t s o f h e r D N A w i t h o u t c r e a t i n g a s e n s o r y o v e r l o a d W h e n c o m p a r e d t o l a s t y e a r s c h a o t i c c h e e t a h p r i n t , t h e c o l o r - b l o c k e d s h o w c a s e d d e s i g n s w e r e u n r e c o g n i z a b l e M o s t o u t f i t s w e r e a c a n v a s o f e i t h e r p u r e w h i t e , r e d , o r b l a c k , a n d o n e o f t h e f e w t h a t w a s n ’ t , a b e a u t i f u l l y c u t h e r r i n g b o n e s u i t , w a s a v e r s a t i l e a n d t i m e l e s s p i e c e t h a t c e n t e r e d t h e w h o l e c o n n e c t i o n . T h i s i s n o t t o s u g g e s t t h a t R a v i z z a c o m p l e t e l y a b a n d o n e d h e r f l a r e f o r t h e d r a m a t i c . T h e s i m p l i c i t y o f c o l o r e n h a n c e d t h e p o w e r o f t e x t u r e , f r o m f r o s t - w h i t e l y c r a s t o c k i n g s t o f u r r y r e d s h o e s t o v o l u m i n o u s s h e a r l i n g j a c k e t s , M o n g o l i a , w h i c h a l s o i n s p i r e d e m e r g i n g d e s i g n e r S a r a W a n g t h i s s e a s o n , w a s t h e u n d e r l y i n g t h e m e o f t h e c o l l e c t i o n . W h i l e W a n g i n t e r p r e t e d t h e s t e p p e s t h r o u g h c o l o r f u l f o l k s y p a t t e r n s , R a v i z z a ( t h a n k f u l l y g i v e n h e r p e n c h a n t f o r o v e r b e a r i n g c o l o r s a n d b u s y d e s i g n s i n t h e p a s t ) r e f e r e n c e d t h e c u l t u r e t h r o u g h s m a l l d e t a i l s F o r e x a m p l e , w e s a w e m b r o i d e r e d s p i r a l m o t i f s o n o v e r c o a t s a n d m o h a i r f r i n g e s o n b a g s M o s t m e m o r a b l y M o n g o l i a n w a s a p a i r o f b u l k y s h e a r l i n g t r o u s e r s t h a t w a s r e m i n s c e n t o f l o c a l m a t e r i a l s , c u l t u r e , a n d t h e s h e p h e r d i n g i n d u s t r y

I ’ m t e m p e r i n g m y e x p e c t a t i o n s f o r S i m o n e t t a R a v i z z a m o v i n g f o r w a r d ; t h i s s e a s o n m a r k e d o n e o f t h e m o s t d r a m a t i c a n d r a p i d c h a n g e s i n a p e r s o n a l b r a n d ’ s a e s t h e t i c t h a t I ’ v e e v e r s e e n i n t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y I ’ m n o t c o n v i n c e d t h a t R a v i z z a ’ s n e w t a g p h r a s e o f “ a l w a y s e l e g a n t ” w i l l d e f i n e h e r s e a s o n a f t e r s e a s o n B u t I a m h e a r t e n e d t o k n o w t h a t s h e c a n c r e a t e s i m p l i s t i c a n d c l a s s i c s t y l e s … s t y l e s t h a t c o u l d b e c r i t i c a l t o t h e l o n g - t e r m s u s t a i n a b i l i t y o f t h e b r a n d . E v e n i f t h e a n i m a l p r i n t s c o m e b a c k a n d t h e o n e - c o l o r e n s e m b l e s d i s a p p e a r , R a v i z z a w o u l d b e w e l l - s e r v e d t o c a r r y r e f e r e n c e s t o t h i s s e a s o n s ’ s a e s t h e t i c i n t o w h a t e v e r m o t i f s a n d n a t u r e - i n s p i r e d t h e m e s s h e t r a n s i t i o n s t o n e x t .

POP PUNK

John Richmond’s 80’s rocker style is having a moment; its urban cool and punk exuberance are the exact pent-up energy that Europe’s young and beautiful have been channeling after two years of Covid lockdowns. And the British designer, opting for the more intimate atmosphere of a presentation as opposed to his usual runway show for Fall/Winter 2022, is fully embracing the opportunity Leather, studs, and bondage references, all integral parts of the Richmond repertoire, were the stars of the season as expected What surprised and delighted guests, while keeping with the post-Covid flashpoint, was the color palette: deadly red, neon pink, and yes, that vivid shade of lime green that has been all over the runways this season, added a pop of playfulness and bold personality to the typically edgy looks.

Perhaps the greatest compliment to this season’s looks is that there were no weak points or clear-cut top picks. Each garment seemed carefully considered and played a key role in completing the collection’s aesthetic and advancing its overall message. Richmond avoided the temptation to present the exact same look in a litany of different colors. Rather, his signature blazers, coats, and leather jackets experimented with a multitude of styles pattern and color palette followed form Take an asymmetrical leather bomber whose aggressive geometric cut was accentuated by its electric lime green color (if we had to name a favorite look, this would be it) Or an elegant if daring leather trench in a statement-making Schiaparelli pink I’ve always thought such pinks are highly under-utilized in winter coats the paradigm is even worse when it comes to autumn rain gear which is what made Richmond’s color choice so intelligent and refreshing.

The lime green and Schiap pink, ever prevalent throughout the presentation, were united in a cheeky series of printed dresses, skirts, and jumpers. The pieces, entirely covered in bold black text screaming punk-style motifs such as “zips,” “studs,” “chains,” “mohicans,” and “out on the road,” marked the rare combination of rebellious youthful energy and the exuberant colors that recall the trend-setting if mainstream influencers comprising today’s “traditional cool ” Richmond has perhaps unintentionally found himself the vanguard of “Pop Punk,” an organic movement that has slowly developed in post-Covid times but, at least until now, did not have a singular designer taking the reins of the aesthetic

It’s an aesthetic that, among celebrities, is best represented by Russian pop star Klava Koka. Klava Koka, marked by her jagged blonde shoulder-length hair, stylistically switches effortlessly between Barbie and Skater Girl (or perhaps Skater Girl with a Barbie color palette is a more apt description). Leather, colorful fur, oversized coats, bright sunglasses, baseball caps, and toques all play an essential role in her bold and playful aesthetic, one that puts an unfailingly optimistic spin on the punk looks traditionally associated with fringe society and a critical worldview

Richmond has surprisingly embraced such optimism and some of its corresponding glitter A sequin-covered red dress was the collection’s signature evening look while a sparkling blue and pink patterned number was emblazoned with the slogan “in good we trust.” Even the men’s side of the collection had some flare. I fell in love with a black bejeweled blazer that had silver gems arrayed in floral and bird patterns dripping down its right side. There was a certain aristocracy to this piece, the sharp shoulders and shape of the pattern reminiscent of military regalia of old. The aristocratic theme continued into the more casual men’s wear; a white leather jacket dominated by black studs was emblazoned with “god save the queen” in silver My personal favorite piece was a black leather jacket with paint splatters in the shape of the Union Jack on its back Crudely written over the flag, as if in white spray paint or chalk,was a Richmond-ism: “Punk is an attitude not a fashion ”

That may be so, but Richmond’s attitude, particularly in its contemporary form, is certainly in fashion. If this is a retooling period for the brand, which Richmond, in acknowledging seismic events such as Covid and the situation in Ukraine, has indicated, I’m excited to see how its new direction continues to develop. It’s a direction, and an attitude, that I think we could all use.

In my review of Casadei’s Spring Summer 2022 collection I enthused at the colorful exuberance with which the brand celebrated the end of Covid Deftly using new colors such as Nile Green and Optimistic Pink, Cesare created a set of lighthearted yet elegant looks perfect for the first summer of “normality.” There were hiccups in the collection (I was particularly aghast at a pair of croc-inspired platforms) but I accounted for these as a natural product of the pent-up creativity and desire for experimentation that festered during lockdown.

The colorful exuberance returned for Fall/Winter 2022 but this time it found a far less captive audience. What was poignant last season seemed overplayed now, and the cheerful color palette that so impressed me was replaced by a more chaotic and aggressive one Many of the boots felt too structured too bold inclined to dominate an aesthetic rather than compliment it And, as if attempting to resuscitate one cringe-worthy trend from the first decade of the 2000’s wasn’t enough, last season’s crocs were followed by garish UGG-style boots. The furry boots, covered in splatters of tie-dye and accompanied by a set of equally hideous fur sandals, contained clashing notes of lime green, pink, and orange.

Experimentation didn’t work this season While some ideas were promising (for example shoes inspired by the Tevas that Cesare frequently wore in his youth), the overall aesthetic lacked a distinct identity. However, there were some showstopping pieces. Cesare excels when returning to Casadei’s roots and adding modern twists to classic styles; that’s precisely what he did in designing a special shoe to commemorate the ten-year anniversary of the “blade.” A vivid red crystal-covered stiletto was one of my favorite shoes from Milan this season; worth of the deadliest “femme fatale,” it encapsulated everything Cesare referenced when he said he wanted “glamor a shoe for girls to wear out at long last ” I also loved a delicate pair of sandstone heels, fastened at the ankle by a bejeweled “tennis bracelet” that Cesare referred to as “a gift from your grandmother something that you can always pull out of your closet to wear on any occasion ” And the Donna (a brown heel with hunter style boot inserts) was both creative and classic

Looking forward, I hope to see more nostalgia-inspired pieces from Casdei…and whimsical modern interpretations of classic pieces. Hopefully, however, the Croc and UGG references will remain firmly in 2022.

C A S A D E I

Taking a page out of the Giuseppe Zanotti playbook, Fratelli Rosetti “entered the cosmos” in Fall/Winter 2022, albeit for an exploratory flight that is expected to lead to a more comprehensive journey next season.

The shoes were anchored by a series of what were described to me as “nodules”…tromp d’oeil studs of hand-knotted leather designed to look like metal. For Rossetti it is a way to reference the moment, nodding to the metallic glamor that has been in vogue in the past three seasons' collections and playing with new materials that offset the classic Rossetti designs The colors of the sneakers and dress shoes were clean; patent black joined Bordeaux red and gun metal brown while silver studs on some pairs added a little bit of glitter They were presented against a dramatic midnight sky backdrop, with guests encouraged to take advantage of the “Instagram moment” and promote the collection

Listen to the Fratelli Rossetti narrative and you’ll constantly hear the contrast between tradition and innovation being emphasized. This season best exemplifies that contrast out of Rossetti’s recent collections…an important development for the brand given how rapidly the fashion landscape is changing. Look for further growth in the sneaker collection and a continuation of the metallic theme next season. We’ll always have Rossetti’s trademark loafers but it’s these more innovative shoes that will bring the brand to the next generation

Santoni kept its classic color scheme for Fall/Winter 2022: vivid blues and orange dominated Nonetheless, this season was groundbreaking: the 47-year-old brand re-interpreted its iconic blue in men’s shoes for the first time. The collection felt particularly bold not just because of this expansion. From the chunky combat boots to knee-highs in breathtaking blue and orange python skin, almost each piece was a tour de force that seemed a metaphorical weapon.

That’s not surprising when you understand the collection’s inspiration This season saw Giuseppe Santoni turn to urban warfare, a k a the white-collar dramas played out every day in the chaotic streets and offices of Paris and Milan, for his inspiration These shoes are designed for the rigors of 20hour days: for men and women who rise early, work hard, and navigate an array of complicated 21st century challenges who are a force socially as well as in business and who still find the time and energy for a little bit of glamor

Given two simple words to describe the Pollini F/W 2022 collection, I would choose "cozy" and "colorful " Many of this season's pieces evoked a certain childhood naievete: the clean pinks, yellows, and whites inspired me to reminisce about days on the schoolyard when kids were bundled up by their parents in bright jackets and mittens. Retro through and through, the collection was inspired by the 1960's. The pop art setting for the advertising campaign was mirrored by the bright furry straps on sandals (a surprising trend this season), the patent leather used on lace-ups and hunter-style rain boots, and pops of color above the soles of loafers and boots

Titled the Ice Cracker collection, a Cortina-inspired capsule marked Pollini's first full foray into ski culture and fully functional snow gear The boots, equipped with an Al pi OC System Sole to maximum traction in icy conditions, should be all over the slopes of St Moritz and the Dolomites during the 2022/23 ski season. .

R O M A N R E V I V A L

B A L E S T R A ' S E L E C T R I C

2 0 2 2 M E T A M O R P H O S I S

2022 was a bittersweet year for the Balestra family and brand It started in spectacular fashion, as the eponymous 63-year-old label re-launched under the passionate guidance of the founder’s daughters Fabiana and Federica Balestra and his granddaughter Sofia Bertolli Balestra. The new look Balestra, staying faithful to the brand’s heritage and craftsmanship while adapting its aesthetic for the 21st century (and particularly the post-Covid optimism that has inundated Italian fashion), debuted in February 2022 with the F/W 2022 collection. It was the first of three collections that together will fully unveil the brand’s new direction, each capturing a unique facet of the Balestra tradition in ready-to-wear for the first time

The exuberance surrounding these new beginnings was countered by the heartbreak of this November, when founder Renato Balestra passed away at the age of 98 after a rich and successful life Balestra, known as the “painter of fashion” and for patenting Balestra blue during the same time period as Yves Klein was popularizing his own version of the color, is secure in his place as one of the all-time great Italian couturiers His designs have been immortalized in classic films such as “The Barefoot Contessa” and “Lucky to be a Woman,” he was synonymous with Dolce Vita Rome, and he made history when he sent men and women down the catwalk together in the 1970’s. A Hollywood aficionado who was deeply invested in the American market, he partnered with Saks, Bergdoorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, and Lord & Taylor to design exclusive collections for these respective department stores. He also was connected to the opera, ballet, and theater worlds; one of his last projects was designing the costumes and scenography for Swan Lake at the Belgrade Opera in 2019.

Renato’s influence was felt throughout the inaugural Balestra ready-to-wear collection The logo, in simple block blue font, was fashioned after one of his hand-drawn versions dating back to 1971 The clothes, inspired by the fluid design, plunging necklines, and oversized shoulders of Renato’s 1970’s and 1980’s looks, feel timeless with a couture-style attention to detail

And one of the collection’s mantras: “born from a dream of light at dusk,” reflects the symbolic passing of the torch from Renato to his daughters and granddaughters. It also represents the perpetual regeneration of Rome, the “eternal city,” which has remained at the center of history for thousands of years and is uniquely possessed of a certain infinite energy which has won hearts and built empires.

Rome is intoxicating, and, as much as any other city, is most alive after dark That’s a spirit that the F/W 23 collection was designed to capture: it “speaks of freedom, of the desire to live the night, and stay up until dawn - because the rising sun is a symbol of optimism ” The press release stated: “This collection is our homage to the dreams that never fade, the ones we chase after, the ones that push the best of us under the spotlight, the ones we can still feel in our eyes when we wake up – and change how we see the future ” It’s a poignant concept that should link Balestra to new generations: both because of the boundless energy of youth and also because of the specific flashpoint (the party-starved Covid era) in which today’s teens are coming of age As a young person myself, I was moved by the collection’s unabashed exuberance and glamor From slinky and sequined black tops to leather pants in a neon “Balestra blue,” many of the pieces on display left me with a strong desire for a night out at my favorite Rome club: Raspoutine. They also evoked my love for Rome in the daylight hours;. Prints of Giovanni Baattista Piranesi’s 18th century etchings, depicting the city’s ancient landmarks from the Pantheon to the Coliseum, danced across hoodies, coats, leggings, and other daywear. “Quoting the city is our invitation to dream, to let feelings run through us, to imagine physical and ideal places,” Sofia Bernoulli Balestra said.

As the fashion world mourns Rene Balestra, we can take some solace in the fact that he was alive for the presentation of this collection Rene saw his legacy revitalized by his heirs with an evocative debut that captured the essence of his elegance and shared it with a whole new market While its founder may be gone, the Balestra name is as strong as ever and I can’t wait to see how future collections continue to honor it

G A B R I E L E C O L A N G E L O ' S A U R O R A B O R E A L I S

An aurora borealis collection from Gabriele Colangelo was inevitable The master of delicate materials, pleats, and colors, all more complex than originally meet the eye, Colangelo has designed a metaphorical aurora throughout the entire ouevre of his eponymous brand Forest, sky, desert, and ocean have run as an undercurrent through his creations seasons after season, with nature often being explicitly referenced as a "capital I" inspiration. The aurora borealis brings all of these elements together with tantalizing mystery; ethereal and ephemeral, they seem at once to contain all infinity and to be a figment of our imagination. Similar mystery can be found in Colangelo's understated looks, which at times seem presented with a certain spirituality and are as noteworthy for which elements are not there - Colangelo loves playing with the concept of open space - as which ones are

Colangelo did not tackle his interpretation of the aurora borealis with the vivid colors and dramatic forms that you would expect from many designers Rather, he stayed loyal to his typically muted yet elegant palette: in his own words the collection was anchored by "green, indigo, lilac, white, burgundy, and beige " The one exception was a Yves Klein/Balestra blue, which made sparing appearances in a cocktail dress with a plunging neckline and a simple blazer/pants combo. Colangelo was one of the only designers on this MFW calendar to put camel in the spotlight; indeed it was his predominant color and featured on the most memorable pieces. Among these: a form-fitting overcoat anchored by a leather belt that appeared to be knotted with cord. (featured in white on article cover)

One of the other spectacular pieces is pictured on the bottom right of the article cover; knotted silk pleats unfolded like a cape over a leather dress before fanning out in a seashell pattern The texture play here was stunning when viewed up-close, especially when layered with a camel wool coat that a friend of Elysium just happened to be wearing on the day of the presentation.

The major takeaway of the collection, for all the metaphors and nuanaces that made it a masterpiece, was pragmatic. Lilac and camel, seen rarely enough on their own this season let alone combined, will be a perfect pairing for Fall/Winter 2023. A tubular lilac leather bag added a pop of color to an all-camel ensemble; a lilac jacket, with the same corded leather belt that I so appreciated on an overcoat, would be perfect paired with tan pants and a baseball cap Colangelo's color scheme inspired several of my looks for the most recent Paris Men's fashion week; it can be as easily incorporated into men's fashion as women's

To conclude with a quote from the collection press release: "the suffused glimmer of handmade glass crystal braided trim shines below the straight dress with plunging neckline and the diagonal wool suit." This line captures a distinctly Colangelo contrast...each look is a carefully crafted cocktail of structure, texture and space with all elements balanced. They mirror the balance of nature: the balance of the aurora. After closely following Colangelo's career for the past seven years, I felt this collection to be a culmination and a coronation: in the name and designs alike.

Presented in its jewel box of a flagship store, Rosantica’s F/W 2023 collection was a luxurious celebration of skiing and sparkles. Several limited edition pieces were dedicated to the ski lifestyle: these included a gondola-shaped bag complete with bejeweled passengers and a circular bag ensconced by an image made entirely of crystals. The Holli bag also starred: the shiny grey and peacock colors stood out as being particularly on trend for this winter.

Serapian also referenced ski culture this season. Inspired by the serenity of Saint Moritz, the brand incorporated shearling wool in its bags for the first time in its 94-year history Serapian also introduced azure and Bordeaux colors into its Mosaic while anchoring its color palette in a rich caramel As usual, the highlights were the one-of-a-kind Mestieri d’Arte bags with their hand-painted details and luxurious ornamentations

While Spring/Summer 2022 saw Borsalino transcend borders (Japanese and Peruvian-inspired capsule collections were highlighted by a collaboration with Acheval), Fall/Winter 2023 saw the brand transcend time periods and subcultures. Forever conversing with elements of its rich Italian (and more specifically, Piedmontese) heritage, Borsalino drew inspiration from “Arte Informale” in developing the themes for this season.

Popularized by names like Lucio Fontana and Alberto Burri, “Arte Informale” was a type of lyrical expressionism that swept the Italian art world in the 1950’s as figuration gave way to abstraction The unbridled creativity of this movement was mirrored by this collection, which emphasized raw materials and craftsmanship in modules titled “Arts and Crafts” and “Street ” Creative Curator Giacomo Santucci sourced several of his ideas from Borsalino’s Seventies archives, re-interpreting 50-year old silhouettes for a modern era while simultaneously referencing a post-war aesthetic. The color palette of blue, dark green, and rust was perfect for winter…and for pairing with the neutralcolored coats that typically dominate the Milanese streets. The “Contemporary” module contained the season’s bold “statement” looks, including a tiger-print hat, the classic Borsalino tiara in “bamboo,” and a navy fedora adorned with a bejeweled beetle. My personal favorite: the “Artur Allesandra Felt Vintage” in green.

Elysium Spotlight DIANA HUK Antwerp, Belgium

Having split her life between Ukraine and Belgium, while cultivating strong ties to Milan, influencer and model Diana Huk refuses to be contained by borders or stereotypes For this fiercely motivated young woman, fashion is less an industry than a powerful forum for freedom and self-expression. From supporting young designers to educating aspiring fashionistas through her social media platforms, this philosophy informs everything she does A collaborator of Elysium, Diana recently sat down with us to discuss her journey into the fashion world, forecast trends for 2023, and offer some advice for our younger readers.

Jesse: Ciao Diana. You only got formally involved in fashion a couple of years ago, yet you carry yourself with the confidence and grace of someone who's been in this world for ages Tell me about your fashion journey

Diana: I've always wanted to be in fashion; I get inspired and energized by it But I wasn't able to achieve this dream while coming of age in Antwerp maybe I was scared, maybe people thought I belonged in the corporate world because I study economics My fashion journey started when I was on exchange in Milan in 2021; I attended some fashion week events and my friend LaToya asked me to be in a photo shoot At first it was scary; I wasn't close with anyone, I didn't know how the industry worked, I was even a little awkward when people were taking photos of me

Jesse: So what did you learn from this first fashion week?

Diana: It's so important who you surround yourself with You want your fashion family to be full of people who inspire you, who motivate you, who wish the best for you Competition is healthy, but the idea should be to grow together, not "I'm going to be first and you ' re going to be second " Photographers, influencers, stylists, designers we can live in symbiosis, and what's beautiful is that everyone brings a unique perspective to their role Just because you interpret pink one way doesn't mean I can't interpret pink in a different way we can co-exist and learn from each other

Jesse: Speaking of unique perspectives, you have an iconic personal style How would you describe your aesthetic?

Diana: My nature is to be very experimental; you won't see me following the trends Fashion is where I can let my imagination run wild, where I can express the things that inspire me I remember when I was nine I was experimenting with clothes a lot: my friends would say "what in the world are you wearing?" So now, in entering the fashion industry, I'm escaping adulthood and going back to Little Diana There's no day-to-day uniform of jeans, New Balances, coffee in my hand I can do something crazy with my hair, I can be a warrior, I can be a politician, I can represent my values

Jesse: I know a lot of designers appreciate that and are excited for you to wear their products What do you look for from a designer in forming a collaboration?

Diana: First, I really value craftsmanship I want to know how pieces are being made; I support local brands, and, if production is outsourced, I want to ensure it's environmentally sustainable Second, I like to know the designer personally; if there's mutual admiration and respect, I will be their supporter #1 Third, I follow my heart; certain clothes, as with people, bring you so much excitement and joy that you know it's a match For example, I recently created a look from my boyfriend's father's blazer; I fell in love with it and bought a skirt online that went perfectly

Jesse: What is it like working with young designers to curate your fashion week looks?

Diana: It's all about trust and mutual support When you ' re wearing an outfit for street style, the designers are literally trusting you with their babies, with projecting their vision into the world I was fortunate enough to work with some great Belgian designers this past Milan Fashion Week The Celebi, Ataman label, Pascale Mulder I was excited to bring all of their aesethetics to Italy

Jesse: Antwerp is having a great fashion moment right now And, during a very difficult time, so is your home country Ukraine. I know you ' ve been wearing a lot of Ukrainian designs lately; tell me more about the fashion industry there.

A 25-year-old entrepreneur and crypto investor with big dreams and a strong work ethic, Max Schaumburg exemplifies the type of person who was drawn to Dubai this past year However, his love of Dubai started long before the days of Instagram and influencers Elysium recently sat down with Max to chat about his experiences in the city, how it’s changed over the years, and why the Dubai vision continues to inspire him in his everyday life.

Diana: Ukraine has so many innovative and creative people. Before last year, I hadn't really thought of Kyiv as a fashion capital...I hadn't thought of returning to my country to discover the fashion scene. Now I've done more research and I can't wait until I have the opportunity; it's insane how many inspiring brands we have. And I'm so proud of how the Ukrainian community abroad has been buying homegrown products and helping these brands stay alive. Ukrainian designers have obviously been facing major challenges selling at home; who is going to be thinking about fashion when there is no food, no necessities? But cities like Amsterdam, Antwerp, Milan, and Paris have been holding Ukrainian design weekends, helping designers set up pop-ups, and raising awareness internationally.

Jesse: And you ' ve highlighted some of those designers for our readers in this issue I imagine Ukrainian fashion also fits well with your beliefs about buying locally

Diana: For sure I know who is doing the labor for these brands, where exactly the clothes are produced, what the business philosophy is Some pieces are made right in my home city of Lviv

Jesse: So let's talk trends We were on the same fashion week circuit last season; what do you see as the main themes for 2023?

Diana: First of all, denim, in different colors and forms Long denim skirts are going to be huge, and we won't see just light blue khaki, pink, and bright colors will all be in Second, and people who binged Wednesday will appreciate this, Goth is having a moment I expect variations of black leather and lace to be all over the streets and runways

Jesse: I agree that darker shades are trending Designers all told the same story after Covid: " we want bright color, we were inside for too long, people want to party again." Now they're restraining themselves. And metallics are having a massive moment in place of neon.

Diana: Exactly, silver and chrome are everywhere. Also cobalt blue. That might be THE color right now, and it has unisex appeal.

Jesse: Any trends you see carrying over from 2022?

Diana: Sheer looks have been in for a couple years now and I see that continuing. Also asymmetric skirts, ballooning oversized dresses, and anything boho chic.

Jesse: Finally, what advice would you give to our young readers who are finding their way as fashion influencers ?

Diana: What matters is dedicating yourself to what you love It doesn't matter how many followers you have, whether you ' re growing quickly or growing slowly Some people have hundreds of thousands of followers, but I'm sorry, they're not fashion Some people have only a few thousand, but they're creating content that people appreciate It sounds cliche but you have to start from the bottom of your heart Never give up on your goals, and stay true to your aesthetic--don't let your aesthetic become a product of social media

Our Five Favourite

Rising Stars from Tranoi Showroom

Lyph Apparel

David Catalan

Monseiur L

Jeanne Friot

Jeanne Friot

Louis Gabriel Nouchi

Estelita Mendonca

R I S I N G S T A R : Evan Morello (erEvan)

Saint Tropez style with urban sensibility, erEvan represents the rare brand that brings the city to resort wear rather than vice versa. Founder Evan Morello's work initially caught my eye due to its pastel color palette and breathable cotton fabrics (perfect for wandering along the old port). However, it's the complimentary contrast between street and beach, plus some gritty Paris-inspired touches, that give the brand a unique niche and staying power. Take one ensemble from the Summer 2022 look book; casual pants in a colorful Southeast-Asian style ikat are paired with a camouflage denim jacket worn with nothing underneath.

Not surprisingly, the erEvan story involves as diverse a set of locations as the clothes invoke. The brand's name is a nod to Morello's Armenian heritage, its physical store can be found in Saint Trop (41 rue Gambetta) and Morello himself spends much of his time in Paris. I always appreciate when there is cohesion between a designer's personal style and the looks he curates and that's definitely the case here...the eclectic yet cohesive erEvan wardrobe seems to converse with Morello's own. Everything feels effortlessly elegant in a manner that is rare for men ' s fashion; not overly preppy, formal, or grunge, erEvan's head-to-toe looks (often due to fabric juxtaposition) appear to have been casually thrown on before a Sunday brunch. Yet they have a certain self-assured savoir faire that transcends trends and demonstrates an acute understanding of various sectors of the fashion industry. ErEvan will be an essential part of next summer ' s Elysium wardrobe. But we'd also recommend mixing and matching a couple of its pieces for fall/winter.

R I S I N G S T A R : Nick Palmer (N Palmer)

No color is too bright and no pattern is too bold for US-based NIck Palmer, whose first two men ' s collections have run the gamut from dress shirts to short shorts but have remained consistent in their commitment to vibrant and complex designs. Conceived during the summer of Covid, Palmer's eponymous label is branded as an " escape into a more optimistic world." That's a philosophy that applies to production as well as aesthetics; Palmer uses exclusively upcycled and deadstock materials to create handmade garments that, like snowflakes, are never identical.

There's a certain romantic nostalgia to Palmer's attitudes and his pieces. The designer is inspired by patchwork quilts made by past generations as heirlooms; he's fascinated by the concepts of slow fashion and keepsakes in an age dominated by fast fashion and mindless consumption. This shines through in his quirky "button" garments, themselves a surprisingly heavy patchwork of dozens of souvenir buttons that he has personally collected. On one blazer alone I saw nods to Queen Elizabeth, diabetes research, museums, Dr. Seuss books, birthday parties past, and travel destinations. Perusing this memorabilia felt exactly like looking at a wearable version of my grandma's "junk drawers;" a lifetime's worth of forgotten memories on trite keepsakes worth more than the sum of their parts.

I wouldn't wear this garment, but then again it's valuable for its sentiment not its practicability. And it's a sentiment that's captured beautifully on far more wearable (if equally loud) patchwork shirts versatile enough to make a statement at the beach or a gala. Palmer's young brand has just two colletions thus far. I'll be keeping a close eye on how it commercializes and grows stylistically over the coming seasons.

R I S I N G S T A R : Kasper Todjberg & Oliver Abrenica (Isnurh)

"Elegant streetwear" is the perfect term to summarize Insurh, the creation of a Danish duo that has worked with distinctly Scandinavian color palettes, minimalism, and shapes to design an aesthetic that is nonetheless unique within the Northern European space. An initial perusal of the brand's oeuvre reveals comfortable fits and an array of neutral base colors: creams, greys, blacks, browns, and whites. However, the designs are anything but neutral. Hollywood pop art influences shine through in designs like that pictured above. American workwear leaves its mark on pieces such as the plaid wool Hovert overshirt. There's a certain urban melancholy to many of the prints (all made waterless with biodegradable ink): for example one shirt depicts a photo from the Bastille taken on the night one of the co-founders' father's died. There's a bold exuberance to others: for example a choatic red and black pattern that, on a shirt or pants, is ideal for an evening of clubbing. All is deceptively complex, and, as the founders say, a balance between "simplicity and originality."

Tjodberg and Abrenica's commitment to the brand, and their long-term goals, are inspiring. The two men have known each other for sixteen years and have been working on this brand for six--building a foundation from the ground up and managing all aspects of the creative and production process in-house. Environmental sustainability is a central tenet of the Insurh philosophy. The brand publishes a detailed code of conduct outlining its production standards and highlighted by the phrase: " as Isnurh grows, so does its responsibility." Tjodberg and Aberenica have built their infrastructure for eco-friendly growth; for example, they use exclusively OKEO-tex cotton (made with 90% less water than regular cotton) and, through "Care for Clothes' guidelines, encourage their customers to maximize the longevity of each piece These are not profit-maximizing policies, which makes perfect sense to anyone who spent even a few minutes speaking ot Abrenica at Tranoi. Isnurh is passion project as much as company, and as commited to value promotion as brand growth. Isnurh is an easy brand to cheer for. And I have no doubt that its story is just beginning.

R I S I N G S T A R : Fred Llosa (Llosa)

Born and raised in Paris, and coming off a long career in the active wear industry, Fred Llosa incorporated his rich life experiences into a new concept when he changed direction and founded an eponymous brand in 2020. Making his fashion week debut after a series of successful Parisian pop-ups, Llosa stood out for his refined tailoring, masculine silhouettes, and minamilst color scheme within a Tranoi space dominated by bright colors, streetwear, and androgynous looks.

Llosa's collection was for reminiscent of the desert, particularly Oman. The oversized garments, in conservative colors that would blend into rugged or sandy landscape, recalled Islamic influences and are designed to be comfortable even in the most oppressive summer temperatures. Meanwhile, the hat worn by Llosa at the presentation, especially when paired with his elegant gray scarf, bore a close resemblance to the tradtional Omani kuma.

There's a ceratin classicism and ubiquity to Llosa's designs; they can be worn by all generations and can add to the most formal or bohemian wardrobe. I was particularly struck by the flowing Teezer "butterquilt " shirt (half cotton half silk) and the sleek yet simple "Juliana" jacket, two pieces that I could see as staples in future collections. All made-in-France, Llosa's clothes should explode into diverse sectors of the French market: sustained success is in this brand's future.

R I S I N G S T A R : Frederick Edmondson (Lyph Apparel)

@lyphapparel

"Live Young, Play Hard." That's the motto at the heart of Lancaster, U.K.-based brand LYPH Apparel, and, as was explained to me by its passionate and gregarious founder Fred Edmondson, is an all-encompassing lifestyle as much as a guiding aesthetic inspiration. The collection exhibited at Tranoi was "fun grunge with a big heart;" each piece was comfortable and eye-catching with a big personality and a rich backstory.

A Bette Davis photo (given a Picasso treatment) appeared on the back of a sleeveless sweatshirt. "Disneyland" became "Anarchy Land' (pictured at left). A provocative "Blue Velvet" promo poster centered one shirt. And deconstruction was a theme throughout. Many shirts were actually three shirts: taken apart and then stitched together asymmetrically.

Just as Edmondson had fun playing with the structural elements of this collection, he gives his customers agency to do the same. One LYPH signature is the "modular pocket system," created in collaboraiton with the Italian company RiRi. "We're obsessed with pockets, sustainable pockets," Edmondson told me. "It's a unique selling point within our brand. The pockets simply snap off and can be intechanged on different pieces within our collections. You can take a pocket off a jacket and snap it on to a T-shirt. And any garment you buy from us comes with spares. "

"It's about not being a selfish designer, " Edmondson further explained. "We're allowing the consumer to design the product themselves and engage with and get immersed with our brand." That engagement extends to QR codes that are physically built into garments and give buyers access to LYPH's custom "therapy sessions. " These sessions, a nod to the healing process following Covid's mental health toll, largely center on meditation and incorporate the musical influences that are also central to the brand. They're a perfect fit for the experiential and experimental LYPH ethos...one based on unabashed originality but that doesn't take itself too seriously and always puts the wearer first.

NAMESAKE

BLASTING BACK TO THE 90'S

T h e y s a y t h a t f a s h i o n m o v e s i n 3 0 y e a r c y c l e s a n d t h a t w a s n e v e r m o r e e v i d e n t t h a n a t N a m e s a k e ’ s M e n ’ s S / S 2 0 2 3 r u n w a y s h o w i n P a r i s F o r g e t “ r e t r o i n s p i r a t i o n , ” N a m e s a k e m a d e u s f e e l l i k e w e ’ d s t e p p e d i n a t i m e m a c h i n e a n d j e t t e d b a c k t h i r t y y e a r s t o a s l i g h t l y m o r e c r e a t i v e v e r s i o n o f e a r l y 1 9 9 0 ’ s L A T h o s e w h o ’ v e s e e n t h e i c o n i c m o v i e C l u e l e s s w i l l r e m e m b e r C h e r H o r o w i t z ’ s ( A l i c i a S i l v e r s t o n e ) s c a t h i n g i n d i c t m e n t o f h i g h s c h o o l b o y s , t h e “ c r è m e d e l a c r è m e ” o f w h o m w e r e d e f i n e d b y t h e i r l o u d j a c k e t s , b a g g y p a n t s , s t a t e m e n t c a p s , a n d a f f i n i t y f o r b a s k e t b a l l .

N a m e s a k e c h e c k e d a l l o f t h e s e b o x e s w i t h i t s s w a g g e r i n g “ L i f e g u a r d ” c o l l e c t i o n , a p e r f e c t c h o i c e t o b e p r e s e n t e d a s t h e b r a n d ’ s f i r s t r u n w a y s h o w i n i t s t h r e e - y e a r e x i s t e n c e .

Despite the “Lifeguard” name, skater culture seemed to be as prominent as surf culture in the collection In the same industrial-chic interior that Georgian brand Sensationist used for its F/W 22 presentation just a couple months earlier, the Namesake models strutted down the runway against a rugged paint-splattered backdrop of partially whitewashed walls The video accompanying the show opened in a colorful graffiti’d skate park with boarding imagery featured throughout It was a natural continuation of Namesake’s F/W 2022 collection, which was entitled ‘Home Court’ and shot in a high school gym. Brothers MIchael and Steve Hsieh, the brand’s founders and designers, credited Andre 3000, Outkast, and NBA stars such as Jason Williams and Pistol Pete Maravich as “Home Court’s” inspiration. Andre 3000 and Outkast released their initial album in 1994, the same year that Williams rose to nationwide fame in high school and the year before the aforementioned Clueless was released All in all, Namesake’s six seasons so far have been the consummate 1990’s mash-up

a s d i v e r s e a s t h e s k a t e , s u r f , a n d b a s k e t b a l l r e f e r e n c e s t h a t

N a m e s a k e c o n s t a n t l y i n v o k e s M i c h a e l , S t e v e , a n d t h e i r b r o t h e r R i c h a r d H s i e h , t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e i r f a t h e r t h e s e l d o m - s e e n f a c e s b e h i n d t h e b r a n d , s p e n t t h e i r c h i l d h o o d b e t w e e n T o k y o , T a i w a n , L A , a n d S e a t t l e T h e i r g u i d i n g p h i l o s o p h y i s “ F a m i l y M a t t e r s ” a n d t h e i r u n i q u e T h i r d C u l t u r e b a c k g r o u n d , t o g e t h e r w i t h t h e e x p e r i e n c e s t h e y s h a r e d g r o w i n g u p , i n f o r m s a n d s h a p e s e v e r y t h i n g t h e y d o . I n a n i n t e r v i e w w i t h W o m e n ’ s W e a r D a i l y t h e y r e v e a l e d a d e e p l y p e r s o n a l s t o r y a t t h e h e a r t o f b o t h “ L i f e g u a r d ’ s ” n a m e a n d a e s t h e t i c . M a n y y e a r s a g o M i c h a e l H s i e h h a d a m e n t a l h e a l t h b r e a k d o w n d u e t o h i s b o d y a n d s e l f - e s t e e m i s s u e s ; h e c r e d i t s t h e s u p p o r t a n d l o v e o f h i s b r o t h e r s ( h i s l i t e r a l “ l i f e g u a r d s ” ) f o r g e t t i n g h i m t h r o u g h t h e s e d a r k t i m e s A l s o d e s e r v i n g o f c r e d i t w a s b a s k e t b a l l ( “ g u a r d ” r e f e r e n c e s “ p o i n t g u a r d ” ) w h i c h , a s i t h a s b e e n f o r s o m a n y p e o p l e , s e r v e d a s a m e n t a l h e a l t h e s c a p e T h u s t h i s s e a s o n w e s a w u p s i d e d o w n j e r s e y s a n d b a s k e t b a l l t a n k s w o r n a s p a n t s , r e f e r e n c e s t o M i c h a e l ’ s t o p s yt u r v y m i n d a n d t o n g u e - i n - c h e e k a l l u s i o n s t o s p o r t i n s t r e e t c u l t u r e I r e s p e c t t h e L i f e g u a r d ’ s c o l l e c t i o n ’ s c o n c e p t , a p p r e c i a t e i t s v i v i d c o l o r p a l e t t e , a n d w a s i m p r e s s e d w i t h i t s c o m m i t m e n t t o b o t h r e v i v i n g a n d r e - i n t e r p r e t i n g a s p e c i f i c f a s h i o n e r a . A n o v e r s i z e d s t r i p e d b u r g u n d y b l a z e r , w o r n o v e r o n e o f t h e u p s i d e d o w n j e r s e y s , w a s a b r i l l i a n t i n f u s i o n o f p r e p s t y l e t h a t d i d n ’ t d i s t r a c t f r o m t h e o v e r a l l a e s t h e t i c . O v e r s i z e d g r e y c o r d u r o y s h o r t s , c u t a s i f m a d e f r o m n y l o n m e s h , p a i r e d b e a u t i f u l l y w i t h a l i g h t b l u e p i n s t r i p e d j a c k e t

A n d I l o v e d h o w t h e d i s t r e s s e d a n d d e c o n s t r u c t e d n a t u r e o f m a n y g a r m e n t s , a g a i n a n a l l u s i o n t o m e n t a l h e a l t h c h a l l e n g e s , a l w a y s k e p t t h e c o l l e c t i o n s u r p r i s i n g a n d s l i g h t l y o f f - k i l t e r H o w e v e r , o v e r a l l , I s t r u g g l e d t o s e e t h e “ L i f e g u a r d ” l o o k s a s w e a r a b l e , a t t u n e d w i t h t h e m o m e n t , o r e v e n p a r t i c u l a r l y u n i q u e B a g g y s t r e e t w e a r w i l l a l w a y s b e i n s t y l e t o a n e x t e n t ; I j u s t d o n ’ t s e e a p l a c e o n t h e m a r k e t f o r N a m e s a k e ’ s g a r i s h a n d e m a s c u l a t e d v e r s i o n s o f 9 0 ’ s c l o t h e s t h a t t h e f i c t i o n a l C h e r f o u n d a b h o r r e n t e v e n w h e n w o r n b y t h e i r o r i g i n a l t a r g e t a u d i e n c e . T h e t a n k t o p s w o r n a s t r o u s e r s w e r e p a r t i c u l a r l y a t r o c i o u s ; e v e n t h e c o n s t r u c t i v i s t - r e m i n i s c e n t b l u e a n d c r e a m j a c k e t p a i r e d w i t h o n e c o u l d n ’ t s a l v a g e t h i s a w k w a r d c r o t c h l e s s l o o k . S y m b o l i c o f t h e c o l l e c t i o n ’ s d i s c o r d a n t a n d a t t i m e s p o i n t l e s s l y d a r i n g n a t u r e w e r e t h e t h r e e - b i l l e d c a p s D i f f e r e n t a n d b o l d a r e n o t s y n o n y m o u s w i t h c r e a t i v e a n d i n t e l l i g e n t a n d , o u t r a g e o u s f o r t h e s a k e o f b e i n g o u t r a g e o u s , t h e s e c a p s s e e m e d l i k e a h a s t i l y c o n c e i v e d w a y t o s t a n d o u t r a t h e r t h a n a m e a n i n g f u l c o m p o n e n t o f a g e n u i n e a e s t h e t i c S o t o o d i d t h e f u r - c o l l a r e d j a c k e t w o r n w i t h s h a p e l e s s d e n i m s h o r t s b y a m o d e l w i t h w h i t e s u n g l a s s e s a n d s p i k e d g r a y h a i r

T h e u n i q u e c o m b i n a t i o n s o f m a t e r i a l s o f t e n d i d n ’ t w o r k N e i t h e r d i d t h e f i x a t i o n w i t h t o p s a s p a n t s W h i l e t h i s c o u l d h a v e b e e n i n t e r e s t i n g a s a c o n c e p t u a l s t a r t i n g p o i n t t h e v i s i o n w a s e x e c u t e d t o o l i t e r a l l y , l o o k i n g s l o p p y a t b e s t a n d l i k e a t a s t e l e s s p a r o d y o f t h e f a s h i o n i n d u s t r y a t w o r s t S / S 2 0 2 3 w a s a d e f i n i t e s t e p b a c k f o r N a m e s a k e . I n a s e a s o n w h e r e m o s t b r a n d s o p t e d f o r s u b t l e t y i n t h e w a k e o f e x u b e r a n t p o s t - C o v i d c o l l e c t i o n s , N a m e s a k e w e n t i n t h e o p p o s i t e d i r e c t i o n , t a k i n g t h e s l e e k d e s i g n s o f

“ H o m e C o u r t ” t h e n e x a g g e r a t i n g a n d i n v e r t i n g t h e i r m o s t b o l d e l e m e n t s t o a p o i n t o f o u t l a n d i s h n e s s . W h e n i t c o m e s t o t h e c r e a t i v e i n d u s t r i e s , c a r i n g t o o l i t t l e a n d c a r i n g t o o m u c h c a n s o m e t i m e s l e a d t o t h e e x a c t s a m e r e l a t a b i l i t y g a p W a t c h i n g t h e L i f e g u a r d s h o w w i t h o u t u n d e r s t a n d i n g t h e b a c k s t o r y , o n e w o u l d t h i n k i t a p i e c e m e a l a n d s i m p l i s t i c a t t e m p t t o b r i n g b a c k a n a e s t h e t i c K n o w i n g t h e b a c k s t o r y , o n e w o n d e r s i f t h e d e s i g n e r s w e r e * t o o * c l o s e t o t h e i r w o r k : i f , b y c r e a t i n g a p r o d u c t s o s p e c i f i c a n d d e e p l y m e a n i n g f u l t o t h e m s e l v e s , t h e y g o t l a s t i n t r a n s l a t i o n w i t h t h e r e s u l t a c o l l e c t i o n i n c o m p r e h e n s i b l e o u t s i d e t h e i r p e r s o n a l b u b b l e . L o o k i n g a t t h e H s i e h b r o t h e r s ’ o t h e r w o r k , I h o p e ( a n d t h i n k ) i t w a s t h e l a t t e r . I ’ l l b e w a t c h i n g c l o s e l y t o s e e i f t h e b r a n d t r e a t s “ L i f e g u a r d " a s a o n e - o f f o r d o u b l e s d o w n o n i t s d e f i n i n g f e a t u r e s m o v i n g f o r w a r d .

Elysium Cocktail Club is a celebration of la belle vie It holds the cocktail bar as a sacred space At once a ballet, a laboratory, and sanctuary, a great cocktail bar is a passion project that plays a central role in the grand theater of our lives. Here mixologists pour heart and soul into their craft, people from across the globe unite for special evenings, and ephemeral moments become eternal

Every year, Elysium Cocktail Club ranks the 75 Most Iconic Bars In The World. There is no formula, no set criteria, no way to game the system Opulent hotel bars, experimental molecular mixology bars, vibrant speakeasies, you’ll find them all here. Elysium believes in transcendent bars, visionary bars: bars that adopt a personality of their own to define the cities they call home and the lives of those they touch Atmosphere, creativity, alchemy this is the Elysium way

Covid changed many things but the world's grandest hotels, like the bars that define them, are designed to weather any storm Bar Hemingway remains #1 and Bar du Bristol leapfrogged Bemelman's into the #2 spot. Meanwhile, two new entrants exploded into the top ten: Red Frog Speakeasy of Lisbon, Portugal, and Birds Bodrum, the Turkish outpost of the icnonic Moscow nightspot. Switzerland put its first bars on the list, with Badrutt's Palace Bar and Widder Bar debuting at #13 and #17 respectively, while Courchevel 1850, Sofia, Bulgaria, and Charelston, South Carolina also joined the fray

Proudly presenting Elysium's Top 75 Bars for 2022 read on to see the full list and learn about all 13 new entrants. Note: This list includes bars visited up until May 30, 2022.

Photo: @widderbarzurich

1. Bar Hemingway, Paris, France

2. Bar du Bristol, Paris, France (+1)

3. Bemelman's Bar, New York, USA (-1)

4. The Aviary, Chicago, USA (+1)

5. The Clumsies, Athens, Greece (+1)

6. Red Frog Speakeasy, Lisbon, Portugal (NEW)

A speakeasy within a speakeasy, Red Frog offers a bespoke cocktail experience to a discerning clientele. The dress code is "creative black tie" and this descriptive could also apply to the menu, which exhibits a deep respect for cocktail tradition while experimenting with luxe ingredients and designing custom drinks for guests. Try the American Gangster, a twist on the Manhattan made ith a 25year-old madeira, or one of the many barrel-aged cocktails. The dark chocolate-rimmed glass ranks among the most decadent presentations I've seen

7. Birds Bodrum, Bodrum, Turkey (NEW)

The Mediterranean outpost of the legendary Moscow club, Birds Bodrum has developed one of the world's most well-rounded and creative cocktail lists under the guidance of the brilliant Petr Sorokovov. The refreshing Carrot & Dill Sour aperitif (made with dill gin, carrots, and peach liqueur) is contrasted by the Sorrel & Grape, a fizzy Beluga-based cocktail which pairs perfectly with dessert due to its banana and coconut flavor. No trip here is complete without the truffle and coffee Negroni. Or several...the spectacular dinner show, breathtaking Yalikavak sunset views, smooth kalyan, and beautiful people will keep you here all night.

8. Ce La Vi, Dubai

9. Manhattan, Singapore

10. Nottingham Forest, Milan, Italy (-3)

11. Artesian at the Langham, London, UK

12. Hotel de Paris Bar, Monaco

13. Renaissance Bar at Badrutt's Palace, St. Moritz, Switzerland (NEW)

There's white-glove service and white tie style at this most famous of St. Moritz bars...stepping into the valuted space feels like traveling to a bygone aristocratic age. The encycolpedic menu contains masterful renditions of all the classics, not to mention a cigar list. But this is no conservative hotel bar...there's a rotating carte of creative signatures containing such combinations as Glenfidditch, tia Maria, saffron, and mustard.

14. CitySpace Bar, Moscow, Russia (-1)

15. Atlas, Singapore (-1)

16. Jerry Thomas, Rome, Italy (-1)

17. Widder Bar, Zurich, Switzerland (NEW)

An ornate jazz bar that serves as a headquarters for Zurich's elite, Widder Bar represents that perfect balance between traditional setting and avant-garde mixology. Elyisum's favorite cocktail, Back to the Roots, combines vodka with chartreuse, blackberry, and beetroot flavors. However, this is also a great bar to go back to the roots of cocktails and learn about the spirits themselves. Widder is proud to carry over 250 malt whiskies, makes some of the best martinis I've ever had, and is happy to arrange arrange unique whiskey or martini flights ranging from classic to revolutionary

18. PK's, Santorini, Greece (-2)

19. Barmini, Washington, DC (-2)

20. Caino at the Regis, Florence, Italy (-2)

Red Frog Speakeasy

Birds Bodrum

Red Frog Speakeasy

21. Galaxy Bar, Dubai, UAE (-2)

22. Bar 228, Paris, France (-2)

23. Zuma, Dubai, UAE (-2)

24. Please Don't Tell, New York, USA (-2)

25. Paradiso, Barcelona, Spain (-2)

26. Loggerhead, Kyiv, Ukraine (-2)

27. Xander Bar, St. Petersburg, Russia (-2)

28. Bar at George V, Paris, France (-2)

29. Untitled, Calgary, Canada (-2)

30. Eleven Mirrors, Kyiv, Ukraine (-2)

31. The 47 at the Kempinski, Istanbul, Turkey (NEW)

Nestled on the shores of the Bosphorus with dramatic views over Istanbul and the 15th of July Martyrs Bridge, the 47 is worth a visit for the ambience alone. However, the cocktails, many structured around housemate botanicals, that will keep you coming back. Elyisum favorites include the Avocado Mob (with avocado-infused vodka) and To the Moon and Back (which pairs jalapeno infused tequila with pomegrante molasses). Whiskey cocktails are a specialty: the Kempinski has designed six signatures in partnership with X by Glenmorangie And if you like spicy drinks, this is the place for you.

32. Le Bar at Cheval Blanc, Courchevel 1850, France (NEW)

The most exclusive bar in Elysium's favorite ski resort, Le Bar at Cheval Blanc is an après-ski predinner essential. Live music, champagne cocktails, and exceptional service are guaranteed. Try the legendary secret cocktail Le White 1921 and try to guess the ingredients or opt for one of the concoctions designed in collaboration with Fendi.

33. Bar @ Plaza Athenee (Paris, France) (+10)

34. Employees Only, New York, USA (-5)

35. Tippling Club, Singapore, Singapore (-5)

36. Blaue Bar @ the Sacher, Vienna, Austria (-5)

37. Trick Dog, San Francisco, USA (-5)

38. Rundle Lounge at the Banff Springs, Banff, Canada (-5)

39. 28 Hong Kong, Singapore (-5)

40. Biltmore Bar, Tbilisi, Georgia (-5)

41. Savoy Beaufort Bar, London, England (-5)

42. Cambridge Public House, Paris, France (NEW)

This cozy Marais spot, inspired by the ambience of a British pub and serving classic comfort food such as Shepherd's pie, never fails to surprise with its innovative and frequently changing cocktail menu. Vegetal and herbaceous flavors dominate; don't be surprsied to see parsnip champagne, an 'onion oldfashioned," or rhubarb sorrel vodka. Carribean and Calabrian influences collide in a particulalry memorable sour made with ricotta, Planation rum, strawberries, and olive oil.

43. Potato Head Beach, Bali, Indonesia (-6)

44. Ory Bar at the MO, Munich, Germany (-6)

45. The Connaught, London, UK (-5)

46. Club Bar at the Peninsula, LA, USA (-5)

47. Hemingway Bar, Prague, Czech Republic (-5)

48. Bamboo Bar @ the MO, Bangkok, Thailand (-4)

Cambridge Public House

Badrutt's Palace

Widder Bar

49. Dead Rabbit, New York, USA (-4)

50. Bvlgari Bar, Milano, Italy (-4)

51. Baba au Rum, Athens, Greece (-4)

52. 5L Speakeasy, Sofia, Bulgaria (NEW)

Entering this speakeasy is a process; even once you locate the door you must solve a riddle and choose from a selection of dozens of keys to get inside. But the effort is worth it; the relentlessly innovative bartenders are capable of making you consider even your favorite spirits and cocktails in whole new ways. Raki is the spirit of choice in Bulgaria and thus raki cocktails (from tropical to intense to savory) take pride of place on the menu. Be sure to try some of the house-infused rakis and have your server walk you through the best Bulgarian brands.

53. Zelda, Odessa, Ukraine (-5)

54. King Cole Bar, New York, USA (-5)

55. Moskovsky Bar at the Four Seasons, Moscow, Russia (-5)

56. The Violet Hour, Chicago, USA (-5)

57. Clementine, Edmonton, Canada (-5)

58. Vesper, Bangkok, Thailand (-5)

59. Piano35, Torino, Italy (NEW)

Located on the top floor of sleek contemporary landmark the Intesa Sanpaolo Skyscraper, Piano35 simultaneously brings an intoxicating glamor and understated urban cool to Torino nightlife The cocktails encapsulate that dichotomy: molecular mixology stars but it is used to simpify not dramatize. Take the complex Spritz No More, which sees vodka, St. Germain, sake, and chili pepper combined, clarified, and served with a minimalist presentation Clarified cocktails are the house specialty.

60. Dante, New York, USA (-6)

61. SkyBar, Bratislava, Slovakia (-6)

62. Katana Kitten, New York, USA (-6)

63. Top of the Mark, San Francisco, USA (-6)

64. Cadier Bar at the Grand, Stockholm, Sweden (-6)

65. N;B, Kyiv, Ukraine (-6)

66. Bamboo Bar @ Armani, Milan, Italy (+2)

67. Officina, Milan, Italy (NEW)

A madcap space including everything from motorcycles to gramophones to a life-sized Marilyn Monroe statue, Officina, located on a quiet street a couple blocks from the Navigli canals, could be everything from a literary salon to a risqué nightclub. Instead it serves up exquisite and deceptively complex cocktails paired with Italian culinary classics like carbonara. Try the "twist on the rum punch" (with matusalem, Torres brandy, citrus sherbet, and jasmine tea). And plan on staying in the convivial atmosphere and chatting with your friends late into the night

68. Bar Kleber, Paris, France (-8)

69. Hotel Metropole, Monaco (-8)

70. Bourbon & Bubbles, Charleston, USA (NEW)

A lively yet sophisticated bar for Southern gentlemen and Southern belles, Bourbon & Bubbles specializes in exactly what the name implies The most impressive cocktails make magic from this unlikely combination; the Charleston 75 combines Four Roses bourbon, st. Germain, and sparkling rosè in a drink that you won't quite believe until you taste.

Piano35

Officina

5L Speakeasy Bar

71. Paravoz Speakeasy, Kyiv, Ukraine (-9)

72. Bar at the Caesar Augustus, Capri, Italy (-9)

73. Breeze Lounge, Abu Dhabi, UAE (-9)

74. Beatnik, Kyiv, Ukraine (NEW)

Taking its name from the Cold War era "Beat Generation," known for its rejection of convention and materialism, Beatnik is, fittingly, where Kyiv's urban cool kids hang out. A notoriously hard-to-find speakeasy in a city known for its speakeasies, Beatnik curates its crowd with its own version of face control. Once inside, you'll find that while the guests are hipster the cocktails are haute couture As part of a no-menu table service concept, Beatnik's bartenders talk to each guest about their flavor profile and then curate individualized cocktail experirences. Elyisum was most impressed by a Manhattan-style drink with amaro and the "Rich and Poor," which blends coconut lavender, and old tom.

75. Ayahuasca, Bordeaux, France (NEW)

Bordeaux's nightlife, understandably, is dominated by wine bars. However, Ayahuasca Cocktail Club, or ACC, is on a mission to change that. The glamorous jungle-influenced space, which combines emotions reminiscent of the roaring 20's, Athens' leading craft cocktail bars, and Parisian club Manko, has been packed nightly since its opening in March 2022. The refreshing cocktails emphasize East Asian and Mediterranean flavors, wih Mastiha starring throughout the menu and pandan syrup, sakura tea syrup, and red-shiso infused vodka also making multiple appearances. This bar is not afraid to push the envelope but it's also a great bet for classic cocktails made with local cognacs.

Leading Cities: Leading Countries:

Paris, France (7), New York, USA (7), Kyiv, Ukraine (5), Singapore (4), Milano, Italy (4)

USA (14), France (9), Italy (8), Ukraine (6), UAE (4), Singapore (4), United Kingdom (3), Russia (3), Canada (3)

New Entrants: 13 (highest Red Frog Speakeasy , Lisbon, Portugal #6)

Biggest Gain: Bar at Plaza Athenee, Paris (up 10)

Biggest Fall: Lebua Sky Bar, Bangkok, Thailand (eliminated from the list from #4)

Closures: The Rose Club, Bar Bash, Carlo e Camilla in Segheria, Bar Dot XIII

Cocktail of the Year: Truffle and Coffee

Negroni, Birds, Bodrum, Turkey (Gin washed with truffle oil, Campari bitter infused with coffee beans, red vermouth)

Elysium Nights Award: Birds, Bodrum, Turkey

Honorable Mentions:

F.U.L.L. Bar, Kyiv, Ukraine

Sherry Butts, Paris, France

Jacques at the Hoxton, Paris, France Bar Pitrizza, Porto Cervo, Italy Senses Bar, Sofia, Bulgaria

New Entrants Breakdown: France (3), Turkey (2), Switzerland (2), Italy (2), Portugal (1), Bulgaria (1), USA (1), Ukraine (1)

Beatnik

Ayahuasca Cocktail Club Bar Marilou

Bourbon & Bubbles

CONVERSATION WITH THE FOUNDER:

Q: Portugal, Turkey, Switzerland...several new countries entered the rankings this year and performed extremely well What do you see as the big storyline?

A: Turkey is an exceptional cocktail destination that's undergone a true flavor revolution in the past five to ten years However it's historically been passed over by this type of list and is only just starting to receive international recognition Istanbul is approaching the level of a Paris, Milan, or London in terms of how many grand hotel bars there are The 47 at the Ciragan Palace made this year ' s list; one I'd watch for next year is YALI at the nearby Four Seasons. I spoke to the head bartender there this summer and was really impressed with his drive to innovate and experiment...both with flavors and presentation. You also shouldn't sleep on Ankara The Turkish capital has the market to be a cocktail city and spots like Mr. B's (which dabbles in a "bespoke" concept a la Beatnik or Attaboy) are starting to fill that niche

Q: Is Bodrum still Turkey's cocktail capital?

A: Absolutely The Bodrum peninsula is its own world Hospitality companies must synchronize with their markets to be successful and Yalikavak nightlife operates according to Moscow standards and norms, not Turkish ones Russian restauranteurs have brought their tradition of glamor, exquisite presentations, luxury ingredients, and boundarypushing flavors to Bodrum to meet the demands of their clientele It can be seen in every aspect of the guest experience at Birds (this year ' s #7) and also at nearby Sakhalin, a White Rabbit hotspot which would be on this list if we expanded to include restaurants' cocktails.

Q: Let's stick with that theme...what other restaurants have impressed you with their cocktail program lately?

A: I had some marvelous experiences in Monaco this summer: Maya Bay and Maya Jah in particular have taken their cocktail games to the next level At Maya Jah I was blown away by the "smoky New York" a cigar smoke-infused Manhattan variation served in a cigar-smoked glass In New York, Georgian restuarnat Chama Mama serves some delightfully spicy margaritas with their house-infused chachas And Calgary's River Cafe had a great program based on local gin, bitters, and syrups this summer

Officina Q: Time to stir the pot. You traveled extensively this past year and checked out a ton of the world's topranked bars for Elysium Which ones disappointed?

A: I hate to use the word "disappointed;" all these bars have amazing cocktail programs and work so hard at their crafts. But in Paris, in my opinion the world's best cocktail city right now, I don't understand the appeal of some famous Marais-adjacent bars Neither Frequence nor Combat nor Serpent & Plume seem to be de doing anything memorable from a flavor perspective (That said, I'm in love with the retro decor and atmosphere at Frequence and would highly recommend as a "club" on Friday and Saturday). I was heavily underwhelmed by Amsterdam's Flying Dutchmen; I felt like a revenue source rather than a guest. And at Royal Cocktail Club (widely considered the best in Porto), I had the most illogical (and maybe the worst) cocktail I've ever encountered Cognac paired with madeira, oats, and sparkling rose and topped with what looked like a strawberry jam covered graham cracker Fair warning: just because it's creative doesn't mean it's intelligent

Q: That sounds like an absurd flavor mix. What flavor combinations have you been enjoying lately?

A: I was really into spritzes at the end of this summer; there's so many herbaceous tonics and bitters you can use to spice up the Italian classic In Portofino, limoncello and rosemary spritzes stole my heart. And at home I've enjoyed experimenting with hibiscus and rhubarb syrups Finally, pomegranate has been steadily growing on the cocktail scene over the past three years I was particularly inspired by some cocktail lists on my recent trip to Baku; pomegrante and coganc is a killer duo

Q: Finally, I undestand you went to Bangkok recently; give us a sneak peek of what we can expect from there on the 2023 list.

A: Can't give too much away! But I can guarantee that the MO's Bamboo Bar won't be the only Bangkok hotel nightspot on next year ' s list One thing I really appreciated was the trend of "concept bars" built around a mastery of one ingredient for example Teens of Thailand with gin and Asia Today with honey In my opinion Bangkok's right there with Singapore in terms of Asia's cocktail capitals

Minibar Caino Bar

Photo taken at Spazio Maiocchi during Davide Sorrenti

"Our Beutyfull Future" Exhibition