John Richmond

John Richmond’s 80’s rocker style is having a moment; its urban cool and punk exuberance are the exact pent-up energy that Europe’s young and beautiful have been channeling after two years of Covid lockdowns. And the British designer, opting for the more intimate atmosphere of a presentation as opposed to his usual runway show for Fall/Winter 2022, is fully embracing the opportunity. Leather, studs, and bondage references, all integral parts of the Richmond repertoire, were the stars of the season as expected. What surprised and delighted guests, while keeping with the post-Covid flashpoint, was the color palette: deadly red, neon pink, and yes, that vivid shade of lime green that has been all over the runways this season, added a pop of playfulness and bold personality to the typically edgy looks.

Perhaps the greatest compliment to this season’s looks is that there were no weak points or clear-cut top picks. Each garment seemed carefully considered and played a key role in completing the collection’s aesthetic and advancing its overall message. Richmond avoided the temptation to present the exact same look in a litany of different colors. Rather, his signature blazers, coats, and leather jackets experimented with a multitude of styles…pattern and color palette followed form. Take an asymmetrical leather bomber whose aggressive geometric cut was accentuated by its electric lime green color (if we had to name a favorite look, this would be it). Or an elegant if daring leather trench in a statement-making Schiaparelli pink. I’ve always thought such pinks are highly under-utilized in winter coats…the paradigm is even worse when it comes to autumn rain gear which is what made Richmond’s color choice so intelligent and refreshing.

The lime green and Schiap pink, ever prevalent throughout the presentation, were united in a cheeky series of printed dresses, skirts, and jumpers. The pieces, entirely covered in bold black text screaming punk-style motifs such as “ zips, ” “studs, ” “chains, ” “mohicans, ” and “out on the road, ” marked the rare combination of rebellious youthful energy and the exuberant colors that recall the trend-setting if mainstream influencers comprising today’s “traditional cool. ” Richmond has perhaps unintentionally found himself the vanguard of “Pop Punk, ” an organic movement that has slowly developed in post-Covid times but, at least until now, did not have a singular designer taking the reins of the aesthetic.

It’s an aesthetic that, among celebrities, is best represented by Russian pop star Klava Koka. Klava Koka, marked by her jagged blonde shoulder-length hair, stylistically switches effortlessly between Barbie and Skater Girl (or perhaps Skater Girl with a Barbie color palette is a more apt description). Leather, colorful fur, oversized coats, bright sunglasses, baseball caps, and toques all play an essential role in her bold and playful aesthetic, one that puts an unfailingly optimistic spin on the punk looks traditionally associated with fringe society and a critical worldview.

Richmond has surprisingly embraced such optimism…and some of its corresponding glitter. A sequin-covered red dress was the collection’s signature evening look while a sparkling blue and pink patterned number was emblazoned with the slogan “in good we trust. ” Even the men’s side of the collection had some flare. I fell in love with a black bejeweled blazer that had silver gems arrayed in floral and bird patterns dripping down its right side. There was a certain aristocracy to this piece, the sharp shoulders and shape of the pattern reminiscent of military regalia of old. The aristocratic theme continued into the more casual men’s wear; a white leather jacket dominated by black studs was emblazoned with “god save the queen” in silver. My personal favorite piece was a black leather jacket with paint splatters in the shape of the Union Jack on its back. Crudely written over the flag, as if in white spray paint or chalk,was a Richmond-ism: “Punk is an attitude not a fashion. ”

That may be so, but Richmond’s attitude, particularly in its contemporary form, is certainly in fashion. If this is a retooling period for the brand, which Richmond, in acknowledging seismic events such as Covid and the situation in Ukraine, has indicated, I’m excited to see how its new direction continues to develop. It’s a direction, and an attitude, that I think we could all use.