T h e H o t L i s t
Tripstillery, Milano, Italy: A sleek gin bar amidst the bustling Piazza Gae Aulenti, Tripstillery is the perfect spot for post-work cocktails for creatives and businesspeople alike. Gins are distilled in a compact workshop on site; visitors can even arrange to customize their own small-batch gin with hundreds of combinations of bitters and bespoke labels The eccentric and internationally minded cocktail menu has no misses: pisco sours meet negronis and sichuan spice meets carribean punch in surprising and almost-always herbaceous harmony.
The Order: Sichuan Punch: Rittenhouse rye, sichuan pepper, pineapple, acqua cocco cannella, white wine, orange bitters
Scarfe’s, London, UK: Located in the fatally chic Rosewood Hotel, Elysium’s favourite pick for live jazz in London celebrated its 10th anniversary this year with a special menu reviving the greatest hits from the bar’s history Scarfe’s has never been afraid to play with sweet and fruity flavours in unlikely places; think salted caramel and apple with clarified milk and Glenfiddich (the Beyond) or white chocolate with roasted pineapple and tequila (the Happy Mistake) This is the only place I’ve seen peach or lychee wine incorporated effectively into a cocktail menu.
The Order: Heritage - Poetic Justice: Naked malt, smoked buckfast, cider, hazelnut, Contemporary - Love Me Tender: the Botanist gin, mango cream and bay leaf, sparkling sake
r o m n o v e l s t o c o c k t a i l s , t h e p l a c e s a n d c r e a t i o n s t h a t c a p t u r e d o u r i m a g i n a t i o n t h i s s e a s o n
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C O C K T A I L B A R S 5
Donovan London
Scarfe’s, London
QC Terme Montebianco, Courmayeur, Italy: Located just a five-minute drive away from the center of Courmayeur, QC Terme Montebianco offers a picturesque mountain retreat and a change of pace from the “dolce vita” skiing and nightlife that defines many trips to the Aosta Valley. QC’s second property in the valley (with the other being the expansive Pré Saint Didier location), this hotel offers elite Mont Blanc vistas and a luxurious yet reasonably priced home base for ski and spa vacations alike Far more than a thermal bath, the spa offers a comprehensive wellness experience with thalassotherapy, alpine experience rooms, face massage rituals, a variety of saunas and steam rooms, and so much more. All sessions should conclude with time spent breathing in the rousing alpine air from the outdoor pool and sauna And if you never want to leave the hotel, that’s no problem Meals often see guests dining in bathrobes - on a sumptuous buffet of only the healthiest vegetables, fruit, and seafood
The Marmorosch Autograph Collection, Bucharest, Romania: Inside a stately 18th century bank building, the Marmorosch mixes old-world luxury with contemporary flare in the heart of bustling Bucharest An ornate salon now serving as an all-day cafe/bar welcomes guests to the hotel in grand fashion; perfect for business and relaxation alike, it was a constant meeting point for my friends and I during our recent stay. Meanwhile, the rooms impress with their sleek modern amenities, fashionable art, towering ceilings, and dramatic windows The spa area and pool is also a highlightand indeed a must-visit for proper morning and evening rituals From lighting to sauna temperature, all the finer details have been impeccably taken care of here (although the hotel’s efforts to maintain the original layout and historical integrity of the building mean it is difficult to access from some rooms). Choose an option with breakfast - a proper Eastern European buffet with an excellent smoked fish selection awaits
The Goring, London, England
The Intercontinental, Boston, Massachsuetts: Despite a spate of recent luxury hotel openings, Boston remains a relative wasteland when it comes to accommodation, dining, and nightlife experiences that truly meet a global standard Elyisum staff have visited the city several times in recent years, and after sampling several of its more hyped properties, we can confidently conclude that the Interncontinental is one of the best options on the market Modern rooms, notable for well-appointed bathrooms with luxurious bathtubs, eschew the kitschy historical charm that many Boston hotels embrace to provide a sleek and convenient experience for international guests The brandnew gym space is expansive, with beautiful floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking Boston and ample available equipment even at the busiest hours And the spa is also excellent: this is the only sauna in Boston that approaches a reasonable level of heat
Botanic Sanctuary, Antwerp, Belgium: Set in what was once a 12th century monastery, and seemingly lost in its own world in the midst of bustling Antwerp, the aptly-named Sanctuary has become a de facto headquarters for the elite of Belgium’s fashion capital One can have a luxurious weekend here without ever leaving the hotel; a two Michelinstarred meal at Hertog Jan (be sure to check opening dates and book far in advance) can be followed up with a serene spa day and an evening of cocktails at the cozy yet elegant bar. The hotel emphasizes greenery and natural tones throughout; it’s a place to connect with nature and a simpler lifestyle while enjoying minimalist Belgian design
H O T E L S & R E S O R T S 6
The Marmorosch, Bucharest
LUX Grand Baie
The Sanctuary, Antwerp
The Marmorosch, Bucharest
QC Terme Montebianco, Courmayeur
December: Russian Girl, Женя Любич: Released in 2011 with limited fanfare, Russian Girl rocketed to anthem status thanks to TikTok and Instagram trends this winter. The perfect winter ballad, it is at once melancholic, enchanting, and hopeful
January: Voyage Voyage, Francis Mercier: It’s impossible to look back on 2024 Courch season without this song as the soundtrack With a similar bpm and vibe to last summer ’ s “7 seconds, ” it’s the perfect song for dancing on tables at La Ferme Saint Amour with your best friends We guarantee it migrates to Saint Trop and Monaco soon
February: Whatever, Kygo, Ava Max: After a quiet year by his superstar standards, Kygo joined forces with the forever-seductive Ava Max for an impossibly catchy song that blends tropical house and top 40 in a way that only he can. In the pantheon with First Time and Higher Love.
March: Sunglasses at Night, Heidi Klum: Is there anything Heidi Klum can’t do? As 80's sounds continue to dominate the dance floor, Klum teamed up with Tiesto for a sexy synth based on Corey Hart’s 1984 classic “OK everyone, get your sunglasses out.” “You're out all night, you ' re super sweaty, makeup is everywhere, so all you want to do is put your glasses on, ” Klum said of the song
Russian Pick: Королева танцпола, Джаро & Ханза: From Moscow to Monaco, Chisinau to Courch, the music gods resuscitated this 2019 classic this winter and made it the #1 Russian-language song in nightlife. With the heavy beat and sultry rhythm that defined 2010's Russian EDM/hip-hop crossovers, it’s a welcome throwback perfect for elevating the energy of an evening
Greek Pick: Pio Psila, Vegas, Monsieur Zaraw: Modern Greek music is heavily underappareciated by the global jet set; this joyous dance track, with catchy lyrics about the ubiquitous high of true love, could change that.
Fireside Pick: King of California, Dasha: Set to release her first country album after a pop debut last year, Dasha blends soulful and sassy through lyrics that always tell a story This song, the Indie-style sequel to country bop Austin, tears at heartstrings with thought-provoking lyrics that (à la Taylor Swift’s Betty) will leave you with a new interpretation of their meaning each time you hear them
Clubbing Pick: Out of Touch, Daryl Hall & John Oates [Avangart Tabldot Remix]: This song was a nightly classic under the lights of Raspoutine, Ferme, and Mangeoire this season. Likely not the first Hall & Oates revival we’ll see...can we have a deep house Rich Girl please?
Pop Pick: Fake B*tches, Ashley Kutcher: This song, while not groundbreaking, is notable for its near-ubiquitous relatability among young generations Best screamed out late at night with your best friends as you chase your dreams together.
Techno Pick: Mary Go Wild, Grooveyard (Hel:sløwed remix): With the 80's currently back in the musical spotlight, are the 90's next? Perhaps, if Dutch duo Hel:sløwed has anything to say about it The pair, united just a couple of years ago, gives us their best track yet with this remix of a song from a cult 1996 Dutch movie.
Cinema Pick: Russian Style, Tribeat: Tribeat took one of the most iconic lines from beloved Rusisan movie брат 2 and turned it into a swaggering techno track for an instant classic Simple, yet brilliant this should become a trend
Classic Pick: Рюмка водки на столе, Grigory Leps: One of the most recognizable songs from Russia’s most iconic rock star, “Glass of Vodka on the Table” has been one of our favourite tracks for years It’s been on repeat for the first few months of 2024; perhaps with so many club mixes of classics it’s comforting to hear a soulful original version once in
t h r o w b a c k s a r e i n v o g u e t h i s s e a s o n , a n d f r o m H e i d i K l u m t o H a l l & O a t e s , t h e s e a r e t h e s o n g s t h a t m a d e u s m o v e T H E P L A Y L I S T
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Straight to Hell: True Tales of Deviance, Debauchery, and Billion-Dollar Deals, John Lefevre: Your insider’s guide to the scandalous lives of Manhattan’s elite (businessmen), Straight to Hell is a wildly entertaining rollercoaster on par with Wolf of Wall Street Yet it can also be taken as a candid and hard-hitting guide to life à la “The Subtle Art of Not Giving a F*ck”... and it’s written with the same unapologetic tone and irreverent humour for which Mark Manson is known Author John Lefevre is the founder of the infamous Goldman Sachs Elevator Twitter account, a 2010's internet sensation that revealed the excess, debauchery, and competitiveness inherent to the top tiers of investment banking Beginning from his training weeks as an analyst, during which the author and his colleagues would regularly skip morning lessons to sip world-class wines at the Windows on the World bar in the former World Trade Center, Lefevre takes us through an illustrious decade-long investment banking career that took him through the boardrooms and ballrooms ahem, nightlife establishments, of New York, London, Hong Kong, and Singapore With Lefevre’s career long since concluded, this is as close to a tell-all as you will find. Yet it shocks without aiming for shock value; Lefevre recounts his craziest tales in the same matter-of-fact way we catch up with friends over drinks He’s also whip-smart: for those who are unfamiliar with the mechanics of the banking industry, or even how their own money is getting invested, this is a far more useful and enjoyable handbook than any “Idiot’s Guide” on the market
The Year Germany Lost the War, Andrew Nagorski: A deep dive into 1941, and a series of momentous decisions that changed the outcome of the Great Patriotic War and the fate of the world, The Year Germany Lost the War looks at military strategy from the top down Studying the psyches and leadership decisions of Josef Stalin, Winston Churchill, Franklin D. Roosevelt, and Adolf Hitler, the four most powerful leaders on the planet at the time, Nagorski takes us on a chronological journey through an epic 12-month chess game that began with Britain on its heels and America and Russia in the wings and ended with America and Russia as protagonists and Germany on a slow march backwards towards defeat Nagorski approaches each leader from a uniquely critical perspective, exploring how their insecurities and egos affected their decision-making and how hesitation and bull-headed determination alternately played to their benefit and detriment He is particularly adept at analyzing the cat-and-mouse relationship between Churchill, Roosevelt, and their envoys, as the British prime minister lobbied for the U S to take an increased role and ultimately involve combat forces in the war Thoroughly researched, yet an easy and entertaining read for the amateur history buff, it’s one of the most interesting leadership studies we ’ ve read in a while
To leave you with a couple of his more memorable, and diverse, pieces of advice; “Checking your phone after someone else checks theirs is the yawn of our generation ” “Most people wouldn’t even be the main character in the movie about their own lives ” “Watching how someone behaves at an open bar tells you everything you need to know about them ”
Hook, Line, and Sinker: by Tessa Bailey: A fun and flirtatious beach read with no shortage of sex appeal, Hook, Line, and Sinker tells the tale of a wealthy Hollywood soundtrack curator who travels to the Pacific Northwest for a movie shoot and falls in love with a lobster fisherman It’s a heartwarming if stereotypical story practically made for a steamy new Netflix series Yet it also tackles complex topics such as public perceptions of male-female friendship in a candid and well-rounded way that most summer romances fail to Bailey tells the story from both the man ’ s and woman ’ s perspectives, and her nuanced and perceptive portrayal of the male voice is almost unparalleled among the best-selling authors of the moment
The Greek Escape, Karen Swan: Chloe Marston, London socialite and luxury concierge, moves to New York to escape heartbreak (which just happens to be over her mercurial newly-engaged current boss). She’s used to organizing the lives of the world’s most powerful and demanding individuals, yet nothing prepares her for mysterious new client Joe Lincoln, who takes her to a food truck for their first meeting then flies her private across the Atlantic to help him purchase a property in Greece on their second As Chloe navigates her feelings for Joe and the pressure of finding him a secluded villa in mere days, an ominous accident unfolds in New York and an unnamed woman seeks an escape from her abusive husband in Cannes Spoiler alert: they all live happily after, but not until a couple of final twists that surprise and delight A fast-paced page turner, full of romantic descriptions of the Aegean and written by an author who seems to genuinely understand the milieu of her characters, it will have you dreaming of summer vacation and new romance from the first few pages. Karen Swan, who started her career in fashion journalism, has many books with similar plots This is her best .
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Museum of Contemporary Art, Bucharest, Romania: Bucharest’s trendy Museum of Contemporary Art, also known as MarE, spared no expense this fall on a spectacular exhibition commemorating the 50th anniversary of Picasso’s death In partnership with the Picasso Museum in Paris, “The Picasso Effect” considered the work of the legendary artist in conversation with Romanian artists that he influenced and inspired The exhibition marked one of the first times that Picasso’s works have been presented through an Eastern European lens; it explains that Picasso was seen as a political symbol in Communist regimes and thus how changes in Romania’s government correlate with how the country’s artists interacted with his work For example, in 1948, Scanteia, the official newspaper of the Romanian Communist Party, satirized a Picasso portrait to illustrate “the way the decadent art of the bourgeoisie turns man into monster.” Romanian artists of the following generation, such as Albert Nagy and Kádár Tibor, were publicly confined by the bounds of socialist realism but still experimented with Picasso’s modernist style within the confines of their studios Then, in 1968, following the Prague Spring, art in Romania become liberalized to the extent that 150 Picasso lithographs were displayed at the National Museum In the explosion of artistic creativity that ensured, modern icons like Ion Grigorescu and Alma Redlinger echoed various Picasso periods throughout their oeuvres “The Picasso Effect” thoroughly traced this history, establishing a thoughtprovoking visual discourse between 46 Picasso pieces and 37 Romanian artists Highlights included Ion Pacea’s “Master and Margarita” and Tibor’s “Portrait of a Girl after Picasso ”
“In Another Place,” Istanbul Modern, Istanbul, Turkey: Temporary photography exhibition “In Another Place” highlights portraits taken by Nuri Bilge Ceylan, best known as one of Turkey’s leading filmmakers Ceylan’s images, taken in such diverse countries as India, Russia, and Morocco (of course in addition to Turkey) empahsize the connection between “ordinary” people and their natural or constructed landscapes. Ceylan is openly opposed to candids; he has his subjects stare directly at the camera to showcase authenticity and vulnerability while also disarming the viewer There is something both melancholic and noble about his photos; Ceylan finds monumentality in unhurried moments, and, through portraying his subjects exactly as they are without providing artistic commentary, almost removes himself as the intermediary between his subject and the gallery-goer.
Azzadine Alaïa: Couturier and Collector, Palais Galliera, Paris, France: It’s an open secret that Azzadine Alaïa personally assembled one of the greatest fashion archives in the world; with over 20,000 couture pieces, his encyclopedic collection is topped only by the Palais Galliera and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs Alaïa saw himself as a caretaker of fashion; realizing that iconic dresses were disappearing into oblivion after their fashion houses closed, he quietly amassed and preserved a diverse collection that covered designers, famous and little-known alike, around the globe This includes the entire Balenciaga archive until 1968 and over 700 pieces by Madame Grés “Couturier and Collector,” an ambitious retrospective, saw many of these pieces displayed in public for the first time Highlights included a series of pieces by Charles James, whose work is rarely exhibited outside of the US, glamorous evening-wear by Schiaparelli, and some signature Courreges pieces from the 1960's Alaïa was collecting up until his death; thus the vintage couture is juxtaposed with work from Ghesquiere and Gaultier from the early 2000's While more details on Alaïa as archivist would have enhanced the exhibition, this is still an early candidate for Elysium’s favourite fashion retrospective of the year,
Istanbul Modern, Istanbul, Turkey: After years of construction, the brand new Istanbul Modern building, designed by Renzo Piano, finally opened in a dramatic Bosphorous setting on May 4, 2023 The sleek state-of-theart museum, which hosts large-scale temporary exhibitions in addition to a diverse range of Istanbul Modern’s permanent collection, was more than worth the wait. To walk through its magnificently-curated halls is to embark on a comprehensive yet not overwhelming voyage through Turkish art from 1900 on The selection from the past 30 years is particularly strong, as it illuminates important tensions and issues in contemporary Turkish society without taking a political stance Video and interactive installations are highlights Particularly striking was Refik Anadol’s “Infinity Room: Bosphorous,” an entrancing installation which perpetually changes in real time Artificial intelligence analyzes real-time environmental data collected over the Bosphorus by Turkey’s General Directorate of Meteorology (for example, wind, temperature, and air humidity) and translates them into hypnotic visualizations Also memorable was Şener Özmen & Erkan Özgen’s “Road to Tate Modern,” which tragicomically recreates Don Quixote near Diyarbakir as a commentary on the near-impossibility for artists on the West’s “periphery” to break into their industry’s established circles
A R T & C U L T U R E 9 Istanbul Modern
10 Istanbul Modern
“In Another Place,” shot in Russia by the Oka River
“In Another Place,” shot in Georgia
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“The Picasso Effect,” Ion Pacea’s “Master & Margarita”
“The Picasso Effect,” Portrait of Picasso
“The Picasso Effect,” Picasso’s ”Woman in Armchair”
“The Picasso Effect,” Picasso’s “Seated Woman with Folded Arms”
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Charles James
Nina Ricci, 1937
Charles Frederick Worth, 1890
1938-39
Schiaparelli, Autumn/Winter
Borscht, Dayzi, Chisinau, Moldova: Perhaps the best borscht we ’ ve ever tasted Dayzi’s richly flavoured upscale version of the classic comfort soup, which loses nothing in authenticity, is served with a generous portion of baconcrusted melt-in-your-mouth brioche
Baked Pepper with Goat Mousse, Gray Goose Garden, Chisinau, Moldova: Elysium’s favourite restaurant in Chisinau, Gray Goose is known for exquisitely presented (and often trompe d’oeil) dishes that synthesize traditional Moldovan flavours with French and Italian dining trends
The pepper with its impossibly creamy goat cheese mousse is a perfect segue into the restaurant’s black pasta alle vongole
Balik Durum, Yildirim Usta Balik Durum, Istanbul
Turkey: Balik ekmek and balik durum (fish wraps) are iconic casual Turkish lunches typically taken right off the Bosphorus in Istanbul’s Karaköy district Dozens of shops sell similar versions, but this one-man outfit offers by far the best we ’ ve ever had Ask for the hot peppers
Cucumbers New Yorkese, Torrisi, New York, USA: Newly Michelin-starred New York hotspot Torrisi makes magic from simple flavours due to excellent seasoning and top quality ingredients Their “Cucumbers New Yorkese,” a simple salad with a healthy dressing that somehow tastes decadent, is a must every visit
Oysters with Caviar and Bird Chilis, L’Oiseau Blanc, Paris, France: Served with an ethereal foam, this truly indulgent starter is a study in how to combine different textures and spice sensations The salty caviar, creamy oyster, and zip of a dangerously hot chili ensure all tastebuds are stimulated yet not overloaded
Vanilla Panna Cotta: L’Oiseau Blanc, Paris, France: The best dessert we had this winter saw a luxuruious tahitian vanilla panna cotta presented inside a caramelized tobacco leaf for some crunch and smoky sensibility
Pine-Smoked Trout, La Baumaniere, Courchevel 1850, France: Childhood nostalgia met avant-garde preparation in this sophisticated dish that literally tasted like a walk in the woods near Courch. Chef Thomas Prod’homme’s ability to emphasize the delicate flavour of the trout within an allencompassing smoky palette is truly remarkable
Foie Gras Burger, Cheval Blanc Bar, Courchevel 1850, France: Our favourite gourmet burger in the world With a creamy foie gras topping nearly as thick as the burger itself, a perfectly buttery bun, and beef cooked exquisitely blue, it’s a once-a-year treat worth every calorie
Signature Mushroom Salad, Clos des Sens, Annecy, France: The most famous dish at Chef Franck Derouet’s three-Michelin star alpine gem This mushroom “salad,” topped with a cornoucopia of delicate champignons de Paris, is constructed in the kitchen (and de-constructed by diners) with tweezers
Barbecued Leek, Clos des Sens, Annecy, France: Clos des Sens’ vegetable-focused menu is highlighted by this smoky leek served with a creamy sauce of pike caviar and herbs from the restaurant garden
Fera with Green Curry, Clos des Sens, Annecy, France: Fera, a lake fish particular to the Haute-Savoie, is best experienced at Clos des Sens; it’s barely seared and paired with a delicate Thai-influenced sauce to let its flavour truly shine Sichuan peppercorns accompany it (and the bread at the restaurant), an unlikely but happy paring
Tiramisu, Pasta d’Autore, Milano, Italy: A huge hit with locals and visitors alike, Pasta d’Autore has the best tiramisu in the world (and the author doesn't even like tiramisu)
Salad Piedmontese, Del Cambio, Torino, Italy: A salad that will change the way you think of salads, Chef Matteo Baronetto’s 50-ingredient masterpiece is a taste journey designed to be savoured Highlights include lettuce with mayonnaise & furikake, turnip in red wine, and black cherries with anchovies
Venison Tartare, Pierre Alexis 1877, Courmayeur, Italy; Served with red caviar, red berries, lavender and chocolate, this is one of the most creative tartares we ’ ve had but stays true to Courma’s mountain roots
Foie Gras Raviolo, Pierre Alexis 1877, Courmayeur, Italy: As creamy and decadent it sounds, a dish to be dreamed about for months after enjoying. No notes.
E D I T O R ' S D I N I N G P I C K S : F A L L 2 0 2 3 M E N U 13 On the terrace at Gigi
L’Oiseau Blanc
Del Cambio
W a n t y o u r f a v o u r i t e d e s t i n a t i o n , s o n g , o r b o o k o n t h e E l y s i u m H o t L i s t ? K n o w a n y w h e r e w e s h o u l d h e a r a b o u t ? C o n n e c t w i t h u s o n I n s t a g r a m a t @ w o r l d o f e l y s i u m O r g e t i n t o u c h a t e l y s i u m c o c k t a i l c l u b @ g m a i l c o m Y o u c o u l d b e f e a t u r e d i n t h e n e x t e d i t i o n o f E l y s i u m m a g a z i n e ! D e s t i n a t i o n o f t h e S e a s o n : C o u r m a y e u r , I t a l y
STELLA MCCARTNEY BUILDS COMMUNITY & HIGHLIGHTS INNOVATION THROUGH VISIONARY PARIS SHOW
WORDS: & PHOTOS: Jesse Scott
S T E L L A ’ S S U S T A I N A B L E M A R K E T
With the Eiffel Tower and a brilliant blue sky as her backdrop, Stella McCartney electrified Paris with a groundbreaking S/S 2024 show that captured the soul of her brand while signaling a new era in fashion. Titled “Stella’s Sustainable Market,” the collection merged a timeless aesthetic with innovative production methods, emphasizing sustainability throughout. Eclectic, familiar, and a little bit quirky, the looks were largely inspired by vintage clothing: more specifically, the clothing that Stella used to borrow from her parents and that her daughters now borrow from her They felt as relatable as an old friend, with the Stella archives being consistently referenced and polka dots, ruffles, and embroidery adding some playful flare “When I think about it, my parents were making and designing clothes too; I used to wear them and now my daughter steals them from me And I’ve been collecting vintage clothes since I was like twelve It’s a whole generational thing. I’m definitely exploring the Stella wardrobe over the years,” Stella told me after the show. Yet the collection also showcased avantgarde sustainable technology. “Selling sustainability needed to be the title of the show,” she continued. “We need to show people that this is the future, that this has legs, and that this is going to swap out bad for good.”
Many sustainable materials were introduced to the fashion world for the first time at the show For example, Stella partnered with Keel Lab to incorporate Kelsun, a revolutionary seaweed-based yarn, into two striking knit dresses Kelsun, currently being developed as a cotton-based alternative, uses zero pesticides in its production and 70x less water than cotton It is not yet commercially viable but was hand-crocheted onto the Stella pieces - a unique example of how the most advanced technologies can complement traditional artisanal handiwork to progress the fashion industry while still embracing its heritage. The Kelsun dresses, and a pair of blue jeans, were studded with dozens of iridescent platinum mirrors and worn with oversized pearls. The mirrors were the result of a long-awaited collaboration with Andrew Logan. “I grew up knowing him he’s very much pop art, a little bit of the Blitz Club, a little bit New Romantic,” Stella said “He was always around in my parents’ group, and I’ve always been a massive massive fan ”
“I have some of his pieces and I always wanted to put them on the runway and collaborate with him,” she continued. “This season it happened, so I’m thrilled.” The pieces featuring Logan’s mirrors transcended generations to recall the time of bell bottoms and the Beatles (Paul McCartney was also explicitly referenced through the incorporation of Wings graphics on cotton tees).
Vegan leather also starred; a series of Frayme bags was crafted from grape byproduct from Veuve Clicquot’s harvests Stella told us that “in total, 95% of this season is sustainable - it’s the highest sustainability we’ve ever had ” Guests of the show got to peek behind the curtain at what this actually means 21 market stalls lined the runway, each staffed by smiling faces eager to explain how the materials showcased on the catwalk were made “We needed to have something that shows people the innovation, the creators, the technology,” Stella said. “For me we use it on the runway but it’s really hard to understand how a piece of seaweed can become knitwear or how the waste of wine, grapeksins, can become a bag. So I wanted everyone to meet the innovators and the true heroes behind the brand.”
Stella’s Sustainable Market not only engaged guests with the origins and production process of the clothes seen on the runway but also fostered a network of connections and collaboration between the individual artisans and founders who bring the raw materials to life In an unprecedented move for an international luxury brand, Stella McCartney flew dozens of her partners from around the world to Paris to attend the show, meet each other, and educate the fashion community on their trades.
For many, it was a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to see the clothes that they were instrumental in creating debut live on the runway. It was also an opportunity to build a sense of global unity among team members who all play a critical role in presenting a successful collection but are typically in distinct individual silos spread across continents and industry sectors “The best thing was they all met each other,” Stella told me “A lot of the founders don’t actually get to meet each other so it’s been so lovely to bring all of the innovators together ”
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The gesture demonstrated commitment to the philosophies does not just use “sustainability” brings it to life for her supporters i and transparent way possible. She concepts of “community” but creat uniting workers from vastly diffe and sectors of the fashion indus previously contemplated. “The p bringing people together,” Stella place for a lot of people to find the
This heartfelt sentiment, and a joyo this day and age, was expressed th clothes presented “When you look had joy, we had love, and we had fr “It’s just this spirit of youth and l want to be; it’s what we all should want people to enjoy the Stella we’re not a heavy, hard, strict, an We’re not telling people what to w invite people into our commu conversation that’s actually really im the fashion at the same time.”
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While remaining the epitome of luxury, Stella McCartney/s S/S 2024 collection was notable for its approachability. The collection was structurally precise and inspired by a grand social mission; yet it was also presented with a light-hearted spirit and designed to resonate with a broader swath of the fashion market than the Paris Fashion Week calendar typically targets. Speaking to the charismatic designer after the show, surrounded by a rapt crowd of friends and journalists, I felt that we were all, for the day, “Stella girls.” (A “Stella girl” being described by the designer herself as “really fresh, alive, and living in the moment ”) A community of like-minded people collectively moved by the show’s message and individually relating to the experiences that inspired it, we shared a connection to the brand far more personal than mere admiration Stella is an excellent story-teller, and this season she may have woven her most captivating tale yet It’s one that should enhance her already powerful market position while also inspiring other brands to reconsider their own narratives and causing a major surge in fashion’s sustainability movement.
I leave you with Stella’s advice on developing a vintage wardrobe - which can be applied to many areas of fashion. “Just go with what you like. Don’t think about anyone else…if you’re drawn to something, just let your relationship with that be You’re bringing new life to something and it has to be really personal ”
A L E X A N D E R M C Q U E E N S A R A H B U R T O N A U T H O R S D R A M A T I C S W A N S O N G A S M C Q U E E N E N T E R S N E W E R A
WORDS & PHOTOS: Jesse Scott
Sarah Burton’s swan song was a defining moment of the Spring/Summer 2024 season; the British icon designed an unforgettable final collection for Alexander McQueen as she stepped aside following fourteen years as Creative Director (and more than twenty-five in the company). Burton was the final direct link between the brand and its founder; her departure marks the true end of an era, and, while avoiding any melodrama, her final show acknowledged as much
Lee McQueen’s last two shows (Spring/Summer 2010 and Fall/Winter 2010/11, the latter of which was presented following its designer’s suicide) were tours de force blurring the lines between history, fantasy, and reality Entitled Atlantis and Angels and Demons, they offered windows on McQueen’s worldview and imagination while uniting an oeuvre of representative elements integral to his eponymous brand. Burton’s ambitious finale followed a similar paradigmno easy task, especially with the benefit of foresight that this would be her final opportunity to shape her legacy at McQueen and honor her mentor’s vision.
The collection, entitled “Anatomy II,” was, first and foremost, a tribute to Lee It was described by Burton as “dedicated to the memory of Lee Alexander McQueen, whose wish was always to empower women, and to the passion, talent, and loyalty of my team ” With this message of empowerment In mind, Burton structured the season around four major themes. The blood red rose and female anatomy itself were recurring leitmotifs of feminine strength. Meanwhile, Burton also sourced inspiration from two powerful, if vastly differing, historical personalities. One, Queen Elizabeth I, indelibly shaped history while leading the mightiest empire of her time The other, Polish artist Magdalena Abakanowicz, overcame tremendous personal and professional adversity to become a leading voice in her country’s modernist art movement
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Having grown up during Nazi occupation, then launched her artistic career under a Communist regime that only accepted socialist realism, Abakanowicz, in Burton’s words, became “a transgressive and powerfully creative artist who refused to ever compromise her vision.” The result of these varied influences combined on the catwalk was a show both temporally and culturally transcendent Its grand scale, both literally and intellectually, would have made Lee McQueen proud And, while specific pieces may have taken us on a journey around the globe, the collection’s soul was unmistakably British
With Abakanowicz’s dramatic red and black sculptures as the backdrop to a circular runway, forty-five models strutted a series of forceful geometric looks that exuded “beautiful violence” with discipline and control. Distressed elements were used with dramatic effect: for example, a slash down the black bodice of the opening dress, triangular cut-outs on a tailored jacket, and shredded armour stitch knit skirts presented in gold and red Fringes and jewel details were omnipresent most spectacularly on a silver pearl-embossed body suit and a wool jacket with long strands of red silk asymmetrically dipping off the shoulder like feathers on swan wings Silhouettes from Elizabethan England gave the collection stern sculptural gravity, yet were presented with an unexpected eroticism and irreverence befitting the McQueen name. For example, black leather corsets with sharply sculpted hips and Gaultier-style conical breasts were proposed with a series of looks ranging from the shredded armour skirts to leather shorts. Meanwhile, rose photographs captured by David Sims were digitally printed on chiffon dresses, and replicated in paint by hand on one black leather pencil dress Bright and bold, they seemed at once a crown, a warning, and an homage to a tragedy
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Burton beautifully referenced the natural world, and our manipulation and exploration of it, in a number of pieces. For example, a “high-neck dress with a sculpted hip in gold Lyon lace with exploded lace petals” had the precision of a Bonsai tree and the disciplined sophistication of a flower picked directly from a royal garden Meanwhile, “rose anatomy jumpers” made of ivory crochet knit conversed with a variety of concepts ranging from the foundation of life to the delicate baby’s breath plant - and were paired with denim and bonded leather to create a stark natural/manufactured contrast.
Accessories were carefully chosen and powerful. Burton brought the past fifteen years of McQueen full circle by reviving the armadillo shoes; this iteration, in knee-high and thigh-high leather and with metallic heart details, was perhaps the boldest yet.
Embroidered thorn mules, especially those in blood red, emphasized the threads of danger and violence that extended throughout the collection Meanwhile, the harness sandals in black leather epitomized polished grit Jewelry was used more boldly and generously than in recent McQueen seasons; far more than an aesthetic footnote, it propelled the narrative of the collection forward as much as the textiles that anchored it.
Modernist earrings and rings conversed with Abakonwicz’s statement sculptures, while Tudor rose rings, necklaces, and earrings explicitly expressed what the outfits they were paired with implied. Singular metallic oversized earrings were key components of many looks, alternately complementing and contrasting dresses in a transgressive yet aristocratic ballet Bags were more understated, but possessed an underlying sophistication that should make them staples
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Sarah Burton has said: “There’ll always be a McQueen woman she’s strong, she’s powerful, and when she puts a McQueen jacket on she feels different ” Burton will no longer curate the wardrobe of that McQueen woman but she did secure the brand’s identity, its founder’s legacy, and its path to long-term success in the wake of the tragic events of 2010. Her final collection, a tribute to Lee’s career, was also a bittersweet celebration of hers - and one of her greatest masterstrokes. “I am so proud of everything I’ve done and of my incredible team at Alexander McQueen,” Burton has said. “I will always carry this treasured time with me.” She speaks for all of us who have loyally followed the brand And, with a revolutionary show that respected tradition while simultaneously honouring inspirational women who have forged their own path, she could not have positioned it better for contemporary market success
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WORDS & PHOTOS: Daria Sorokina
What if I told you that Naomi Campbell was the first model to walk the runway for a burgeoning new brand presenting its first collection? Before you shake your head in disbelief, what if I told you that Paloma Elsesser closed that same show, which was styled by global Vogue contributing editor Gabriella Karefa-Johnson? Shocked yet? That's exactly how I felt when I watched the gasp-inducing presentation of the debut "Fire on the Mountain" collection by British-NigerianBrazilian designer Torisheju Dumi The show, which took place in the ornate ballroom at the Shangri-La hotel in Paris, introduced audiences to this new fashion star through 21 wholly unique silhouettes
Torisheju Dumi’s familial background and diverse cultural heritage have been inextricably woven into the fabric of her artistic expression. Born and raised in northwest London, Dumi has a unique aesthetic and complex design vocabulary which reflect her combined British, Nigerian, and Brazilian history. Her Catholic upbringing has also left a profound mark on her creative endeavours, infusing her work with rich themes of religion and spirituality. And while this may be the first season for her eponymous brand, she is informed by her extensive experiences within the fashion industry.
Dumi, who initially chose menswear as her area of specialization, is already preceded by a formidable resume She was selected for the prestigious Sarabande Foundation Scholarship, is a recent alumna of Central Saint Martin’s, and has benefitted from a “who’s who” of contemporary fashion mavericks for mentors For example, Dumi began her design career under the watchful eyes of Phoebe Philo at Celine in 2017, where she remained for over a year before Philo's departure. Witnessing the transition to Heidi Slimane's leadership after his appointment as artistic, creative, and image director by LVMH was a significant formative experience for Dumi. So too was her time under Sébastian Meunier at Ann Demeulemeester, who she worked with briefly before he stepped down as the brand’s creative director in 2019.
T O R I S H E J U S P A R K S F I R E O N T H E M O U N T A I N F O R I N A U G U R A L S H O W
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Dumi’s debut collection was a study in contrasts; crafted entirely by hand in her northeast London studio apartment, it was presented in a gilded Shangri-La setting characterized by gold reliefs and towering ceilings. The collection’s evocative title "Fire on the Mountain” was inspired by a folk song that holds a significant place in Dumi’s childhood memories. Dumi recounted how her mother would often chant its refrain, "Fire on the mountain, run, run, run," as they traversed the streets. "To me, it really conveys a sense of anticipation," she elaborated "This collection signifies my entry into the world of fashion, a declaration of 'Here I am '"
In Demi’s inaugural offering, she demonstrates a flare for unconventional pattern cutting methods, eschewing typical rules of pattern making and inverting fashion school wisdom to forge something rebellious and individual. Emphasizing that one of her objectives is to "create new silhouettes for the fashion industry,” Dumi asserted that “the back is so much more interesting than the front because they have all these ties and wraps, creating silhouettes.” Yet even as Dumi tackles new fashion frontiers, she elucidates a grounded design philosophy comprised of a unique blend of artistic vision and practicality. “Success happens when preparation meets opportunity,” she said. “Especially nowadays, you can’t just let it unfold organically I think you have to work for anything you want, and I want this ”
A considerable number of models were plus-size, even as the industry remains hesitant to embrace greater body shape diversity in campaigns and shows The show as a whole was cast beautifully, with models representing a diverse range of body types and skin colours throughout cross-cultural fashion and beauty canons. Only half of the models were wearing shoes (fierce black Doc Martens boots); the other half walked barefoot on the runway! The models traversing the runway shoeless had mud streaks on their feet and ankles, and sometimes even on their hands, a homage to both hard work and grit. Hairstyles, overseen by Instagram sensation Charlie Le Mindu, were inspired by Yoruba tradition Intricately weaved and wrapped into various striking shapes, hair was transformed by Le Mindu into a bold sculptural look atop each model's head
Equally significant, and complementary, were the concepts of wrapping something on an object and twisting fabrics together. Circular shapes were prevalent, oft stretched over sleeve cutouts that created sleeves for the garment itself and sometimes even for the body. The shapes were seamlessly integrated in each silhouette, facilitating a transition from the classic suit aesthetic to the traditional African draping style. This innovative approach not only captivated me but also underscored the dynamic interplay between Dumi’s diverse cultural influences
With a unique approach to design, Dumi created 21 looks that distinctly showcased her personality and her intentions in fashion: to play by her own rules She winked at (or mocked) the classic British suit by blending it with elements of traditional African lappa garments, manipulating plain poplin shirts worn by Itsekiri men into skirts and voluminous draping. The most memorable tailoring technique was the creation of “holes” through turning wool inside out as if it was a jacket sleeve; this created an unusual relief while leaving behind draping. Dumi played with the placement of the holes - giving more volume to the bust or shoulders in some areas. This delicate solution in pattern cutting was truly aligned with the collection's concept.
I wouldn't label most of the garment construction techniques in the collection as complex; they lean more towards deconstruction and creating volume through draping All the tailoring pieces were expertly made from premium wool and cotton tuille Additionally, technical fabric, which maintains its shape without wrinkling and subtly shimmers in the light, was used strategically to soften the austerity of wool and give "Fire on the Mountain” a more urban look. The colour palette of the collection had the same effect; it featured muted tones punctuated by vibrant accents in red and blue.
After such a dramatic debut, Elysium can't help but eagerly anticipate Torisheju Dumi’s next collectionand what promises to be a meteoric rise Having already wooed Naomi to model her very first look, who knows what else such an ambitious designer as Dumi is capable of?
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A N R E A L A G E : A N G E L I C P U R I F I C A T I O N
DIANA HUK
WORDS:
After introducing a revolutionary colour-changing technology in a Fall/Winter 2023/24 collection entitled “ = ” , Kunihiko Morinaga, the creative director of Japanese fashion brand ANREALAGE, once again captured our attention with a Spring/Summer 2024 collection showcasing his brand's ongoing innovative experiments.
ANREALAGE is an avant-garde brand established in 2003 following Morinaga's completion of his studies at Waseda University and the Vantan Design Institute in Japan It has remained steadfast in its identity over the years The name itself, a fusion of "REAL," "UNREAL," and "AGE," encapsulates the brand's identity of crafting authentic yet surreal garments imbued with original concepts and distinctive elements Throughout the two decades of ANREALAGE, Morinaga has consistently pushed the boundaries of fashion, culminating in the introduction of the brand to the Parisian scene in 2014. His talent and vision were further recognized when he became a finalist for the prestigious LVMH Prize in 2019.
Morinaga's work is characterized by a progressive and technologically-driven approach, earning him acclaim within the fashion industry and beyond. His innovative designs have not only garnered numerous international awards but also sparked broader societal discourse on the intersection of technology and creativity The creative field has always had a symbiotic relationship with technology, even amidst fears that computerized formulas could replace artistic expression ANREALAGE’s collaboration with Amazon demonstrated that even the fastest-growing ecommerce platform can be influenced by the fashion industry; just look at the rapid sell-out of ANREALAGE's “the box” t-shirts and coats.
Morinaga is often viewed in the same pantheon as Japanese peers Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo, and Yohji Yamamoto, all recognized for their love of simplicity and their meticulous focus on detail and craftsmanship. ANREALAGE has undergone three distinct periods of evolution, each contributing to its current stature The early seasons focused on handwork, followed by a phase accentuating garment shapes and the current six-year period defined by technological activations
Today, ANREALAGE is renowned for its pioneering use of photochromic PVC textiles, notably the patented ANVISUAL series. In the ANVISUAL realm, transparent “empty” garments transform into vibrant multicoloured silhouettes under ultraviolet light.
The inspiration for Morinaga's latest collections stems from Umwelt, a 19th-century study developed by the German philosopher and biologist Jakob Johann Baron von Uexküll. Umwelt translates into “environment” or “surround-world” and delves into how living beings perceive their environment An exploration of Umwelt led Morinaga to contemplate the vast diversity of human perception and how this translates to fashion Just as individuals perceive the world differently, ANREALAGE's collections adapt to varying seasons, weather conditions, and environments, embodying the fluidity of human experience The “ = " Fall Winter 2023/2024 collection marked the initiation of this thematic exploration, with Morinaga's mastery of pattern-cutting techniques resulting in garments as meticulously structured as they were thoughtprovoking.
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The subsequent "Invisible" Spring/Summer 2024 collection delved into the paradox of “Existence” and “Nonexistence,” challenging viewers to contemplate humanity's relationship with evolving technologies. By elevating ANVISUAL photochromic technology to new heights, Morinaga adopted a futuristic perspective. The environment played a crucial role in his exploration; therefore, the photochromic PVC was made with plastic-free plasticizers that were both environmentally safe and user-friendly.
After numerous collaborations with such heavy-hitting brands as Puma, ANREALAGE partnered with Toyota Tshusho Inc for its S/S 24 offering The brand again emphasized its focus on sustainability by collaborating with Toyota to develop bodysuits made from fair trade cotton When exposed to light through the PVC garments, these bodysuits were illuminated with monogram logos. Toyota, of course, operates in the automobile industry; this collaboration demonstrates how unlikely partnerships between leaders in different industries can elevate each brand and accelerate innovation.
The foundation of the collection was in simple transparent pieces filled with air and featuring quilted details. After the UV explosion, vibrant colours took over. The looks lit up like a polychromatic kaleidoscope adapting to a different light source, then faded back to their initial state. This unique marriage of technological innovation and designer handicraft delivered a thrilling and surprising effect even for those used to ANREALAGE’s theatrics. We appreciated the elegant simplicity of the garments, and that each piece felt unique despite being comprised of the same fabrics Attention to detail was evident throughout Outfits were complemented with a range of INVISIBLE PVC accessories; from inflatable earrings and bracelets to balaclavas and gauntlet-style gloves, the carefully chosen accoutrements provided both amusement and sophistication Footwear included PVC boots and flats crafted using 3D-printing techniques Won Lee, former CEO and creative director of Gentle Monster USA, collaborated with X8 to design a line of futuristic Sixties-inspired shield sunglasses for this season.
As the fashion industry eagerly predicts the future trajectory of ANREALAGE, questions abound regarding potential collaborations and new technological explorations. What new realms will Morinaga venture into? How will ANREALAGE continue to redefine the boundaries of fashion in the seasons to come? These questions, yet unanswered, will remain top of mind going into next season They serve as a testament to the enduring curiosity and innovation that define the brand and its visionary creator
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A R T H U R A V E L L A N O A N D T H E L A T E X R E V O L U T I O N
WORDS & PHOTOS: JESSE SCOTT
Arthur Avellano, a graduate of the Ecole Supérieure des Beaux-Arts de Toulouse and Atelier Chardon Savard in Paris, has fought against stereotypes since designing his student collections. “The Feast of Trimalchio,” his graduate showcase while at Atelier Chardon Savard, used a mythical Roman bacchanalia as the canvas upon which to present a collection of latex wear. The feast, described in Petronius’s 2000-year-old novel “Satyricon,” was staged by a former slave who rapidly accumulated enormous wealth as a wine merchant. Anxious to demonstrate his elevated status, Trimalchio hosts a lavish banquet as his apotheosis - in doing so aligning with a nouveau riche paradigm that existed for thousands of years before him (the potlatch) and is still repeated two millennia later (now in the form of bottle shows and yacht trips)
Avellano, fascinated by this concept of excess, used his graduate collection to present a series of designs as ostentatious, and some might have said “gauche,” as the banquet that inspired him. Latex has certain connotations; it is difficult for most to divorce the material from sex and fetishism - or even to think of it as wearable. Avellano does not outright reject such connotations, indeed insolently winking at them, but from his first wave-making collection to the creation of his eponymous brand and beyond, he has forced critics and the public to expand their perspective on what latex can and should be He’s destroyed imaginary taboos and, through ingenuity and innovation, demonstrated the tremendous versatility and wearability of a material almost never touched by traditional textile designers He’s even attracted widespread support from image-conscious Hollywood, with everyone from Kim Kardashian to Julia Fox to Timothée Chalemet wearing his custom designs in recent years. And it’s been a labour of love.
“Working with latex requires a lot of research…I persist because I found the challenge interesting,” Avellano previously told Metal Magazine. “Latex is a very beautiful material but it has a lot of technical constraints; we can’t do whatever we want. So finding ways to make it happen, to make it possible, is what interests me I’m currently working with a specialized laboratory that treats latex The discovery revolutionized my practice But I can’t reveal anything else; it’s my secret ”
Avellano is guarded about his processes with good reason Avellano stands alone as a latex-based brand on the Fédération de Haute Couture de la Mode calendar; indeed, it is one of the most futuristic, unique, and revolutionary brands to earn a permanent place among the pantheon of the notoriously traditional French institution. Each season its show is a fashion week highlight, often staged in an iconic or unique location. And each season sees it expand the frontiers of latex as a bona fide fashion fabric. "There is still a lot to do with this idea of reinterpreting latex and trying to introduce it to a classy wardrobe,” Avellano said several years ago “I find new ideas and techniques each season, and the clothes are more and more worked ” He has been relentless in this pursuit, starting with puffers, trenches, and suits and shifting into red-carpet-ready mermaid dresses this season
The Spring/Summer 2024 show took place in the basement of the Institut du Monde Arab, a neoindustrialist quasi-futurist space anchored by dozens of cylindrical concrete columns. There was a surreal quality to the show; as celebrities and press passed through metal detectors and into the cavernous space, many in full latex outfits, they would not have looked out of place on the set of the Hunger Games or anther dystopian film. The pillars framed the models in striking fashion, their exclusively monochromatic and oft-metallic looks resplendent against the grey pillars and white lights
From tromp l’ceil snakeskin to shimmering smooth metallics, texture was the defining feature of this season’s latex offerings Platinum silver stole the spotlight on everything from mermaid sheaths to trench coats to suit jackets. One boxy yet dramatically cut jacket was arrayed atop a mermaid dress, pairing two of the collection’s most memorable silhouettes and perhaps serving as the best exemplar of just how versatile and deceptively practical latex, in Avellano’s hands, can be.
Black anchored the first several looks to march down the runway. Most of the garments, from a men’s suit to a hooded women’s trench (both worn shirtless) were tromp d’ceil snakeskin in a striking astrakhan-style pattern The astrakhan impressed most when viewed close-up; in Avellano’s words “it’s a raised pattern, not embossing, and I like that better ”
Form-fitting in delicate silhouettes, many of the looks were not nearly as voluminous as one would expect from their material. “It’s still all latex all the time,” Avellano quipped. “It’s about giving the impression that it’s something else entirely.” All this said, Elysium’s favorite pieces were those in which Avellano embraced latex in its most iconic and natural form. Flowing trains dramatically swept the floor behind many of the sleek mermaid dresses; coats exuded a feminine ferocity as they sensually billowed out around the models. The result was a fine balance in the collective oeuvre; force met grace, sexuality met severity, and lines between femininity and androgyny were blurred in a dramatic ballet
Arthur Avellano continues to rewrite the latex narrative each season Spring/Summer 2024 saw him elevate the polarizing material to new heights of sophistication and complexity, with couture touches, sharp “tailoring,” mesmerizing shapes, and a glamorous colour scheme combining to comprise looks daring looks fit for the most discerning galas. Avellano has officially arrived on the red carpet, his designs appearing at events from the Met Gala to Ballon d’Or and being favoured by celebrities from Carmella Rose to Kylie Jenner. This season saw Avellano fully embrace the flashpoint - with an evolution that left me wondering if any limits exist with latex.
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B O Y A R O V S K A Y A : T E C H N O F A N T A S Y
SCOTT
WORDS: JESSE
Several years of following Maria Boyarovskaya has taught me to expect the unexpected and the debut of her Spring/Summer 2024 collection did not disappoint. Located in Les Nautes, a historic building nestled on the Quai des Célestins on the banks of the Seine, the event inverted all pre-conceptions about what a presentation (whether traditional or performative) should be. Boyarovskaya re-created a techno rave, with guests crowded around a small bar amidst pounding bass music and erratically flashing lights. The models were performers but by design seemed inadvertently so; dancing in the front of the room, their bodies were one with the music and they seemed wholly oblivious to anything going on around them
Such a scene could only have been created by individuals like Boyarovskaya and her co-founder Artem Kononenko, who are deeply attuned with contemporary Parisian cool. The conceptual collection bottled a capsule of 2023 nightlife, effortlessly toeing the line between luxury and “underground” in the same refined manner that many French socialites (and the establishments they frequent) do on a nightly basis.
Adjectives to describe the collection? According to Boyarovskaya: “Strict, immaculate, minimal, sex, sublime ” Each individual look, and most ensembles, were monochromatic; black, white, “bone,” and “beau blue” starred Cuts were sleek, simple, and geometric, contrasted by surprising and memorable details that gave the collection an edgy sensibility For example, a series of asymmetrical strapless knitted dresses, cut sharply at the upper thigh on one side, tapered elegantly down to the ankle on the other side This striking silhouette, especially due to texture play, was made for a nightlife setting; the yarn dances and seduces, reveals yet conceals, against the flashing lights. Also memorable amongst the club wear were knitted crop tops and mini dresses, the latter of which had a bold yet delicately cut slit slicing across the upper thigh. Most provocative were the look-through mesh dresses, proposed in white and olive, which continued Boyarovskaya’s experimentation with tapering A silk dress with lingerie-style details on the straps also impressed
Outerwear, forever a core part of the Boyarovskaya portfolio, was not forgotten This season was all about trench coats, with a reversible olive design made of Italian cotton taking center stage. The trenches were paired with crop tops and jeans for casual daytime looks that still maintain the brand’s signature edge and sex appeal.
Highlighting Saturday evening of Paris Fashion Week, the electric Boyarovaskaya event, and the looks it showcased, stayed true to the brand’s DNA while delighting guests with a unique premise and distinctive innovations Boyarovskaya is as youthful and of-themoment as any brand on the Paris catwalks right now, its evolution always effortless - and on trend
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WORDS: Anastasia Vorontsova
Heliot Emil's Spring/Summer 2024 collection, unveiled at Paris Fashion Week, delivered a powerful message about the irreplaceable value of human labour and creativity in the face of advancing technology. Brothers Julius and Victor Juul, the masterminds behind Heliot Emil, maneuvered sartorially through the complex relationship between human ingenuity and machine precision, challenging the notion that AI can overshadow human intelligence
Titled “The Chemical Basis of Morphogenesis,” the collection drew inspiration from mathematician and computer scientist Alan Turing, who delved into the algorithmic relationship between unique patterns in nature and mathematics. This thematic exploration served as the foundation for a collection that blended unique textures and patterns with calculated mathematical approaches. Despite experimenting with AI technology to generate designs, the Juul brothers quickly realized that human intervention was indispensable in adequately translating these designs into wearable garments This revelation underscores the collection's essence: while technology may offer new possibilities, it cannot replicate the nuanced creativity and emotional depth inherent to human craftsmanship
Heliot Emil's aesthetic has long been defined by sleekness, edge, and an abundance of hardware; the S/S 24 collection took the brand into new territory by embracing layering and fluid silhouettes. The collection's versatility reflected a departure from the brand's traditional streetwear aesthetic; this season brought sophisticated ensembles suitable for a range of occasions from casual outings to formal events. Standout pieces from the collection included reconstructed layered tops and blazers, which exhibited a balance between utilitarianism and edge
The incorporation of suspension techniques, often without visible hardware, added an element of fluidity and grace to the designs, further blurring the lines between organic and engineered elements. And the tension between human touch and machine precision wove its way throughout the collection. While AI technology struggles with abstract concepts, designers grapple with the complexities of translating intangible ideas into tangible designs The Juul brothers drew strength from this contrast, using it as a source of collaboration rather than conflict and giving rise to unexpected poetic elements throughout the collection, particularly in the increased use of both classical and deconstructed draping
Ultimately “The Chemical Basis of Morphogenesis” is defined by introspection and creative exploration. Presented to intimate groups through a series of videos in a darkened room, rather than in a traditional show format, the collection saw the Juul brothers surehandedly guide a unique collaboration between mankind and machine. The energy of the show was palpable, with each ensemble serving as a testament to the enduring power of human creativity in the face of technological advancement A thought-provoking meditation on the relationship between humans and technology in the creative process, and the endurance of human ingenuity in an increasingly digitized world, Heliot Emil’s S/S 24 design vocabulary was intellectual as well as sartorial In challenging the current fashion landscape, it forced us to reconsider our preconceptions of the industry's future.
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Barbara Bui went modern vintage for Spring/Summer 2024, infusing her typical tailored looks with pops of jungle prints that recalled 1970's rock and roll. Bui is known for an urban chic aesthetic that seems to accidentlally attain timelessness while encapsulating the subtle art of not (fill in the blank).
The Bui girl is effortlessly elegant, too cool for school and walking a tightrope between tomboy and feminine. The prints perfectly fit this aesthetic, with the contrast between metallic and denim materials representing the transition from day to night in the multifaceted Bui girl’s lifestyle.
B A R B A R A B U I : R O C K & R O L L V S . J U N G L E C H I C
43 W O R D S : A N A S T A S I A V O R O N T S O V A F E A T U R I N G A N I N T E R V I E W W I T H C O S M E V O I S I N
UJOH BRINGS REGAL SILHOUETTES TO AMERICAN CATHEDRAL
Ujoh's Spring/Summer 2024 collection, presented in the enchanting setting of Paris’s late gothic American Cathedral, emerged as a testament to Mitsuru Nishizaki's avant-garde vision and commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional tailoring. A maestro of innovative pattern-cutting, Nishizaki incorporated organic curved shapes into his meticulously crafted designs, blending structure with fluidity
The unisex layered and tailored silhouettes showcased in this collection spoke to a diverse audience, embodying inclusivity and celebrating individuality amidst a trendbased fashion landscape Most notably, Nishizaki transformed menswear fabrics into vests resembling soft armour. Adorned with abstract patches, and paired with crisp shirts, suit jackets, and wide pants, these vests added a contemporary twist to classic materials while creating a captivating juxtaposition of elements. Meanwhile, bustier jumpsuits, lapels, and collars took on convex forms, adding a futuristic dimension to the collection.
A significant departure from previous shows was the emphasis on cropped proportions highlighting the upper torso Transparency also played a pivotal role in the collection, with lilac muslin and a reflective yet transparent nylon weave creating plays on light and shadow
Despite these new innovations, Nishizaki stayed true to his DNA with Ujoh classics including pants in an iconic pinstripe, an asymmetric flared strapless dress, and a torn skirt with a handkerchief hem Each showcased the brand's commitment to originality and finding beauty in unconventional shapes.
Nishizaki's references to his homeland resonated throughout the collection, creating a cohesive stylistic narrative that was unmistakably Japanese while nonetheless transcending borders. For example, tunics with open sides and gathered details, crafted from satin-like beige washi paper fabric developed by artisans in Fukui, Japan, demonstrated the designer's commitment to craftsmanship and cultural authenticity And a resplendent celadon green, reminiscent of Japanese ceramics, added a touch of cultural heritage while enriching the collection’s colour palette
Elysium recently sat down with Cosme Voisin, one of the models who graced the stately American Cathedral catwalk, to get a behind-the-scenes look at the show.
Reflecting on the backstage atmosphere, Cosme commented on the harmony between the unique blend of Japanese and European influences within the Ujoh team.
“The team was so nice... they did everything with a smile,” he explained. Describing his runway experience, Cosme highlighted that he felt like a prince. He moved with a graceful and neutral walk to reflect the collection's essence, highlighting how the garments' design influenced their performance Cosme also expressed appreciation for Ujoh's deep cultural understanding of both the European and Japanese markets "I'm not that involved in the fashion industry trends," the model reflected "But Ujoh is one of the most innovative Japanese-issued brands; that’s one thing I can say for sure Their designs go way beyond traditional Japanese designs and can be adapted in many different cultures.”
Ujoh's Spring/Summer 2024 show created an immersive narrative that transcended time and tradition, enchanting with avant-garde designs while emphasizing meticulous craftsmanship. Ujoh has always been about balance, and S/S 24 saw the sure-handed Nishizaki make measured choices to push the brand into the future while staying firmly within the established universe that his followers know and love
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WORDS: Daria Sorokina
PHOTOS: Daria Sorokina & Jesse Scott
Sirivannavari, the fashion house founded by Her Royal Highness Princess Sirivannavari Nariratana Rajakanya of Thailand, once again captivated the fashion world with its Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Notable for its exquisite craftsmanship, attention to detail, artistic references, and celebration of Thai culture, this collection is a testament to the brand's commitment to timeless elegance and modern sophistication.
Entering the stately Place Vendôme salon where the Sirivannavari collection was presented was like stepping into a fairy tale! After ascending a grand spiral staircase, guests began walking through the designs in a gilded hall with towering ceilings and a view stretching down to La Colonne Vendôme below The designer showcased a commendable collection of women's silhouettes made from the finest Chantilly lace, silk, and luxurious hand embroidery Princess Sirivannavari, an artist herself, often references art in her designs. Her primary inspiration this season was the works of Frida Kahlo. The mannequins at the presentation were even placed on sand, evoking the Mexican origins of the artist.
Especially remarkable was the variety of textiles that blended seamlessly together throughout the collection. Eyelet fabrics and broderie anglaise took center stage, while luxurious yet lightweight fabrics like silk chiffon, satin, and organza ensured comfort and style during the warm summer months
Sirivannavari’s DNA is making premium quality garments that are feminine and refined, and while the designer’s choices are not particularly daring they do develop an innovative sartorial vocabulary
The S/S 24 collection featured silhouettes both classic and contemporary, including flowing maxi dresses, tailored blazers, and structured pant suits designed to effortlessly transition from day to night Versatile separates such as silk blouses, linen trousers, and lightweight jackets were also included, allowing for chic and effortless mix-and-match looks Many of the accessories of the collection, such as bags and shoes, were crafted from faux snake skin with golden hardware accents. Meanwhile, the designer drew inspiration from Frida Kahlo's skull motif for a number of jewelry pieces, most strikingly small skull-shaped pendants adorned with gemstones.
The collection was extremely delicate and sensual due to the use of neutral colors and refined textile techniques, such as embroidery and smocks. Some smocks' details were created chaotically, without a distinctly defined pattern Others were intentionally designed to embellish and highlight specific anchor points, such as the collar of a silk blouse or the waistline of a skirt which flowed into an elegantly fitted garment with voluminous flair The use of gimps as a trim made this skirt a highlight of the collection for me; they added an extra level of refinement to a clean if simple look
S I R I V A N N A V A R I ’ S F A I R Y T A L E : T H A I P R I N C E S S T R A N S L A T E S F R I D A K A H L O I N T O B O L D J E W E L R Y , S E N S U A L T E X T I L E S 46
I also loved a striking white corset, its upper element reminding me of the makuta, a dramatic headdress worn as royal regalia in Southeast Asian monarchies Its imposing shape, smooth curves and voluminous patchwork embroidery of white flowers represented a labour of love Gimps and braids used as finishings added even more cultural richness to this piece, transporting us into the storied heritage of Thailand. Embroidery played a central role in many of the collection's designs, a medium for showcasing intricate motifs inspired by traditional Thai artistry. Delicate floral patterns, ornate geometric shapes, and detailed animal motifs adorned dresses, blouses, and skirts, elevating each garment with a touch of opulence and sophistication.
Inspired by the artistic world of Frida Kahlo and her own rich cultural heritage, Princess Sirivannavari succeeded in showcasing contemporary design aesthetics and captivating French buyers with her exquisite taste From intricate embroidery to luxurious fabrics, each piece reflects the brand's dedication to preserving and honouring Thai tradition and Siriviannavari’s own artistic past while conversing with modern sensibilities.
A L A I N P A U L L A U N C H E S B R A N D W I T H B A L L E T I N T H R E E A C T S
WORDS: JESSE SCOTT
Alain Paul is no stranger to the Parisian catwalk
Having worked for over ten years at Vetements (in the Demna Gvasalia era) and Louis Vuitton, he’s a seasoned industry veteran who knows just what it takes to excel on fashion’s biggest stage. Thus it’s no surprise that his debut solo show, and the launch of his eponymous brand, was a perfectly executed masterclass in the development of a cohesive yet dynamic collection and a compelling yet concise narrative.
The inaugural show benefitted from its prestigious venue; Alain Paul and his partner Luis Philippe hosted the event under the bright lights of the 160-year-old Théâtre du Châtelet It was a fitting setting Alain Paul has emphasized that his brand, at least for its first few seasons, will be inspired by the ballet and informed by his long career as a dancer The designer told press that his understanding of fashion and design is inseparable from his relationship with ballet; indeed, dance has shaped his practice more than any other element of his background. I’ve often said that fashion is art, choreography, and physics combined; so too is dance. Paul is hardly the first designer to have approached fashion from a ballet, theater, or film lens…and this paradigm extends to all sectors of the industry (think Salvatore Ferragamo’s foundational experience crafting shoes in Hollywood). That said, he is one of the few to have so explicitly and effectively drawn the connection so early in his career
AlainPaul’s show, which starred both men’s and women’s designs with a touch of androgyny, was structured as a chronological evolution of two distinct acts Each act was inspired by a period in a corps de ballet’s preparation for a new show: from “L’Arrivée” to “La Répétition.” The show began with casual yet sharply tailored pieces to be worn by the off-duty performer. Sleek and effortlessly elegant, they reflected the recoiled energy and alertness of a seemingly sanguine panther ready to leap into action with full ferocity at a moment’s notice. La Répétition (“rehearsal”) used traditional ballet uniforms as a launching pad for tromp d’ceil effects, subtle layering, and deceptively complex deconstruction
One recurring motif was the faux integrated skirtpant linings tucked out from beneath layers of fabric to create an illusion of distinctive garments. The pencil skirt was an omnipresent silhouette, often playfully inverted and worn as a top.
Memorable pieces included a wraithlike slip dress in deadly red. Quasi-transparent, the erotic dress seemed to float down the runway of its own free will, captivating guests with the same mesmerizing movement, delicate elegance, and achingly tragic beauty as the protagonist in Igor Stravinsky’s “The Rite of Spring ” Alain Paul specifically cited Pina Bausch’s 1975 choreography of this ballet as an inspiration for the collection, and it was never more evident than in this piece Another highlight was a black dress upon which pointe shoe-esque ribbons danced across transparent fabric Pleated skirts added touches of texture to a couple of casual looks, while a leather jacket and striking all-denim outfits illustrated that the brand will not confine itself to using solely “ballet materials.”
Picasso told us that we need to know the rules to break the rules. Alain Paul has demonstrated that he is adept at both. His debut collection was indisputably conservative. Yet while it paid homage to the traditional silhouettes and principles of tailoring that have long defined ballet costume design, it did so with a sharp wit and touch of whimsy that hinted at an innovative vision and vast untapped creativity roiling just below the surface Alain Paul has a strategy; this collection was just our first glimpse of his brand’s ethos and Elysium will follow closely as he continues to unveil his vision in coming seasons
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WORDS & PHOTOS: JESSE SCOTT
L I T K O V S K A ’ S “ R E B I R T H ”
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With live Ukrainian music and a minimalist backdrop, S/S 2024’s Litkovska show, a masterclass in tailoring by Lilia Litkovska, left no one in attendance indifferent. The show, titled “Rebirth,” emphasized Ukrainian symbolism. Through striking asymmetrical silhouettes and an alternately neutral and severe colour palette, Lilia Litkovska told a story of feminine power and resilience in times of crisis. Central to the collection was wheat: one of Ukraine’s most valuable natural resources and a national symbol of fertility and prosperity Wheat was referenced in most looks whether through accessories or the garments themselves; particularly memorable were a series of dramatic bags and elegant if rustic brooches
Litkovska has grown signficantly on the international fashion stage in recent years - with each show advancing the brand’s narrative through a specific theme. “Rebirth” followed F/W 23/24’s “On Air” collection, which focused on what the designer described as “the true self, the authentic self.” Yet while the title and inspiration may differ season to season, Lilia Litkovska’s philosophy and values, as expressed through fashion, remain constant. “The message and the motto don’t change season after season. Me and my team - we do the same - and the collection ‘Rebirth’ is about our future,” she told me after the show She emphasized that the brand’s production center remains in Kyiv, commending the courage of her employees who continue to go to work day after day “I have the bravest team in Ukraine,” she said “We believe that creativity will build the future, and despite everything, we will do our best to create a better future ”
While inspiration and colour palette may change, the emphasis on leather and fine tailoring is a trademark of Situationist season after season Walking through the Situationist collection live was a true pleasure due to the balance of craftsmanship and luxury; not all luxury brands have such high-quality finishings!
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Tbilisi, Georgia ”
The topstitching prominently featured tulips, which have become a symbol of peace and freedom in Georgia Rusadze explained that the "tulip for Georgian people is a freedom symbol because during demonstrations since Georgia became independent from the former Soviet Union, people were throwing tulips to celebrate.”
"Coining" or “Chekanka,” the method of processing metal to obtain relief images on the surface of coins and medals, served as another key element of the collection. Such metalwork was quite popular in the Soviet Union and remains so in modern-day Georgia. Rusadze paid homage to this tradition by using the technique to create several gorgeous wearable pieces while also embracing editorial absurdity through the creation of ridiculously large silver earrings that resembled belt buckles
Rusadze’s asymmetrical trench-coat with a high collar made of black gabardine reminded me of the legendary Rei Kawakubo collection for Comme des Garçons Spring/Summer 1996 The garment is one of the key pieces in the collection, synthesizing boldness and elegance These two wardrobe codes are beautifully combined throughout "DEPENDENCE," as Rusadze uses strong sportswear elements such as drawstrings alongside soft classic tailoring.
The tailored wool suits amazed me: one capsule within the collection was marked by asymmetric cropped collars appearing as if they had been truly cut off! Another capsule within the collection featured collars that flipped into turtlenecks. While on the topic of sewing details, Rusadze often uses a charming pattern making technique that I deeply appreciated - adding invisible zippers to visible places in classic tailoring While it may seem like a minor detail, it makes a significant contribution to the refinement of the products Several notable knitting techniques also caught my attention, such as the highly complicated “level knitting” used to create tulips on the red sweaters
Neutral colors with vibrant accents remain integral to Situationist’s DNA, along with materials that include wool, denim, and gabardine. Yet this season marks a new revolution, as “DEPENDENCE” gives special emphasis to Rusadze’s love for his homeland while curating a sophisticated urban minimalist style.
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53 W O R D S : D I A N A H U K P H O T O S : J E S S E S C O T T
MINUIT: LAURIE ARBELLOT’S EMPOWERING FEMININE VISION
For those who adore the chic styling of Dua Lipa or fashion influencer and writer Camille Charriere, there exists a captivating gem to discover: the Spring/Summer 2024 collection of MINUIT (titled 00-00).
Founded by visionary designer Laurie Arbellot in 2020, in the midst of the COVID crisis, MINUIT has one significant purpose - to empower all women to embrace their innate boldness through fashion Drawing inspiration from the pulsating energy of New York City, where Arbellot lived and worked at Proenza Schouler after graduating from the French fashion institution Studio Bercot, MINUIT emerged as a testament to its founder’s creative journey
Each visit to a MINUIT presentation, held seasonally in Paris, is akin to stepping off the streets of the French capital and into a minimalist vision of industrial New York Models exude an aura of confidence and ease, mi designer’s intent to project empowerment into The collections are defined by a synthesis of elements, elegant Paris and gritty if glamorous tomboy attitude and feminine sensibility, past and
How does the fashion world define a “MINUIT She is nonchalant, yet sensual, effortlessly attention with her easy sense of style Each MIN projects a spirit of liberation, inviting us to em individuality and assert our presence with confide
All of Arbellot’s garments are designed with pre belies their effortless draping while embodying t commitment to excellence. This dedic craftsmanship elevates MINUIT’s creations to th timeless elegance and sophistication; MINUIT built for longevity and can return to one’s rotat after season. They are instantly recognizable distinctive yet wearable aesthetic - slightly reb forever graceful. Lightweight materials dominat focus on sheer and mesh - and all is enveloped by palette of black and white. Yet pops of gold punctuate the looks each season, infusing th identity with a celebratory essence Logoman across mesh dresses or tops, while embellishe adorned with mirrors provide a quirky charm w with oversized leather jackets The grace and ve MINUIT pieces allow for effortless mixdepending on mood and occasion
Spring 2024 brought pops of orange and plum, as seen on a skirt and a sheer jersey top with crochet details. A lunar feminine energy was projected onto a long bustier dress which debuted a new shape for this season. Meanwhile, sheer dresses boasting open backs and sleek black leather mini dresses epitomized the quintessential MINUIT aesthetic, catering to the desires of self-assured women who enjoy showing some skin with subtle allure
MINUIT, though young, has already garnered recognition from numerous esteemed fashion publications, such as VOGUE, WWD, and Numéro As the brand continues to evolve and captivate the fashion world, one truth remains certain - MINUIT is not merely a label but a manifesto for fearless self-expression and unapologetic authenticity in the modern age.
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FAITH CONNEXION
MATHIEU SELVATICI PRESENTS ECLECTIC COLLECTION EXUDING YOUTHFUL EXUBERANCE
Faith Connexion remained true to its essence of youthful energy and effortless charm for its Spring/Summer 204 collection Now under the artistic direction of Mathieu Selvatici, the innovative brand proposed a versatile base wardrobe that harmoniously integrated contrasts, showcasing a carefully curated range of outfits that radiated confidence, individuality, and a carefree spirit.
Faith Connexion is always a highlight on the frenetic Paris Fashion Week calendar. The brand has rejected the mainstream and carved out a unique niche within the fashion industry; it is best known as a collective of designers and artists who curate a fresh interpretation of fashion aimed at affluent millennials. Founded in Paris in 2000 by Ilan Delouis, Faith Connexion was acquired in 2009 by Franco-American businessman Alexandre Allard, a Balmain shareholder since 2005 The brand gained international prominence in 2015, becoming one of the trendiest luxury streetwear brands under the artistic direction of Faith Tribe Today Faith Connexion offers a versatile wardrobe that blends rock chic, edgy glamor, and street couture with a modern mix-and-match sensibility The brand’s universe is unstructured, oversized, and plays on masculine/feminine crossovers, with elements of streetwear and casual clothing complementing more traditional sartorial elements. Distressed sweaters, bombers in reversible shearling, and shirts with trompe-l'oeil sleeves are among the brand’s signatures., Pieces mix and mingle, daringly synthesizing and superimposing diverse but complementary influences.
The self-assured S/S 24 collection was all about contrasts, with a touch of whimsy To describe Selvatici’s latest offering in three words: “eclectic but stable ” It included evening dresses made from flowing materials, oversized bombers, cargo pants, and vibrant embroideries
W O R D S : D A R I A S O R O K I N A
Reflecting the mood of contemporary youth, it was at times a chameleon, playing with “high-low” fashion in the same way that today’s generations effortlessly move between differing social and cultural milieu.
Texture and material play brought the atmosphere of the early 2000s to the collection by highlighting the era’s characteristic fit and volume Washed denim details contrasted with flowing silver nylon Features such as bulky cargo pockets and graceful flares gave the collection dynamism and originality Meanwhile, transparent fabrics such as jersey and embroidery in unusual places emphasized the boldness and extravagance of Selvatici’s overall vision The collection incorporated elements of standard-fit pattern making into asymmetric silhouettes, illustrating that it’s possible to both follow the rules and break them!
Key themes of the collection included bombers, cargo pants, draped dresses in flowing folds, corsets, and deconstructed tailoring. One standout piece was a pink hoodie made from transparent organza. This look showcased the designer's creativity in using similarly textured materials like crepe and organza to create contrasting effects while one material flows and creates waves, the other remains firm like canvas This bold choice illustrates Faith Connexion’s innovative approach to fashion and its ability to push boundaries while maintaining elegance
Another intriguing design choice was the chaotic combination of lace with an embroidered military-style belt worn over jeans. Seemingly effortlessly put together, this look encapsulated the DNA of this collection. It's as if the model randomly grabbed whatever was on hand before leaving the house.
Just as pieces were mixed and matched within the collection, they are designed to be mixed and matched within our own existing wardrobes and to comfortably blend into our personal style narratives With its signature quirky charm, Faith Connexion invited us on a poetic journey through bustling urban streets across the globe, from vibrant parties to soul-stirring concerts to electrifying music festivals The collection encapsulated the essence of youthful exuberance and the boundless energy exuded by people who feel truly free
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D A W E I : R E V E R I E & R E V I V A L
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WORDS: VARVARA LITVINOVA
Dawei’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection featured delicate hues and tones, imbuing the garments with a touch of romance and playfulness. Dresses with shellshaped hems, shirt collars, or corset cup shapes were perfect for weekends in Mediterranean destinations; so too were the delicate silk trouser pants paired with rustic beach sandals.
The collection was presented without unnecessary hardware; accessories were minimal and elegant, with only neat linen belts visible Soft pink smoothly transitioned to delicate blue and green in lightweight fabrics such as cotton and viscose Thin, soft gray dresses and trench coats added to the collection's versatility
A standout look was the jacket and shorts suit presented in gold and silver "foil " What struck me most in this collection were the unconventional blouse designs that seamlessly transitioned into pleated skirts, dresses, or jumpsuits with expressive necklines. Particularly stunning was the oversized blouse with a V-neck and textured shoulders. Blouses with long hemlines, harmoniously paired with gold trousers, are perfect for both the office and a party in Saint-Tropez. The waist of these blouses is accentuated by seemingly inflated corsets reminiscent of strapless bulletproof vests These elements suggest inspiration drawn from 1950s and 60s fashion
"Reverie and revival" carries us through the ages, allowing us to dream of the past but also revive its sentiments through new ideas and inspiration
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FANNING SISTERS CHANNEL SONIA DELAUNAY WITH ECLECTIC FURRY FLARE
WORDS: Jesse Scott
K I K O K O S T A D I N O V
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British designers Laura and Deanna Fanning have been known for a vibrant colour palette, varied textiles, and bold innovation since taking over the womenswear line of Kiko Kostadinov; that was all on display for Spring/Summer 2024.
This season marked Kostadinov’s return to Paris Fashion Week after a few years away. Kostadinov, the Bulgarian-born designer who graduated from Central St. Martin’s in 2016 and makes his home in the U.K., had presented his eponymous brand’s collections during London Fashion Week - often in digital formatfor several seasons The shift to a Paris show injected exciting new energy to the brand but did not reflect any major changes in aesthetic or philosophy; Kostadinov proposed a playful yet intellectually engaged collection that continued to evolve his vision along the same trajectory as in recent seasons
A vintage Sonia Delaunay piece was the primary inspiration for a selection of looks defined by patchwork garments and texture play. “We started the collection with a reference image of patchwork, and initially, it was a really old image of a Sonia Delaunay dress with a satin drape in black and velvet patchwork in multicolour,” the Fanning sisters told Hybebeast. “We started talking about why this image is so interesting Why is it so relevant now? Why is it so modern? We began working on textile manipulations with patchwork we started draping panels of fabric in different ways around the body ” The Fannings then used the techniques from the Delaunay dress as an anchor for their own introspective reflection on fashion “This led us to look through history and reflect on our heroines throughout fashion design,” the explained.
The result of this trip down memory lane? A predictably eclectic collection that emphasized Kostadinov’s DNA while also conversing with historical art and fashion flashpoints. The bright colour scheme, which included vivid oranges, lime greens, and pinks in a variety of striped patterns, had a particular retro appeal A type of elevated kitsch, it recalled disco and the performing arts from the 1970’s and 80’s Fuzz and fur in colorful patchwork patterns were omnipresentfrom a trompe l’ceil strapless dress to a bathrobeesque trench to an elegant manteau
Watching the show, I kept thinking of Picasso’s iconic 1937 painting “Woman in a Hat and Fur Collar ” Picasso’s harlequin paintings were also recalled, particularly by a series of colourful knitwear with boxy shoulders and tapered details.
Amidst the eye-catching neon, the Fannings included far more black and monochromatic looks than they have recently. This was partially due to experimentation with modern new materials. “The fabrications led us to work with dark colors in ways that we haven’t done before,” they said “I was really happy with a lot of the crinkle fabrics we had, visco steel, and a lot of sheer So I think wherever there was black in the collection, it was really stiff black, like in some of the denim suits ” Tan, white, and olive were also recurring colours, with the Fannings using more neutral looks as a canvas for playing with complex layering, zippers, and shape.
Kiko Kostadinov presented one of the most engaging and eclectic collections this past fashion week, with conversation-starting pieces appropriate for many occasions and aesthetics. Showcasing a rich understanding of fashion’s history and evolution through the incorporation of layered cultural references, it represents a prescient brand forging its own path even as it stays attuned to the moment
WORDS: Anastasia Vorontsova
PHOTOS: Leroy Velasquez
In the dazzling spectacle that was Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024, the runway witnessed a sartorial renaissance - a testament to the Italian fashion industry's unyielding spirit of rejuvenation and reinvention. As the curtains rose on this fashion extravaganza, they revealed a rich tapestry of designer debuts, a resurrection of in-person shows for brands that had gone digital since Covid, and an insurgence of independent labels challenging the long-standing dominance of established heritage names.
The intensified spotlight on Milan Fashion Week is not a mere coincidence; a convergence of several factors has thrust the Italian fashion capital to the forefront of the global style discourse The city effectively blends tradition with innovation better than any other fashion capital, and in an era tinged with both nostalgia and progressive ideas, it is setting the stage for a bold new era in the ever-evolving universe of high fashion
In a resounding paradigm shift, the fashion industry has witnessed an embrace of substance and authenticity over mere spectacle. Aided by the “Made in Italy” narrative that defines Milan Fashion Week, consumers and industry insiders have united in a transformative pursuit that has elevated genuine craftsmanship to the forefront and is rendering superficial splendour a relic of the past.
Milan, with its blend of rich heritage and a burgeoning scene of independent labels, is the natural locus for this shift The city's unique ability to balance the preservation of tradition with a commitment to fostering innovation has set it apart Additionally, Milan defined quiet luxury before “quiet luxury” became a global narrative; fashion here is as much about the production process as the result and high quality materials (most sourced from Italy) take pride of place over flash.
Finally, the success of emerging talents and the city's efforts to support and promote independent brands contribute to its allure
In a fashion landscape dominated by established conglomerates and heritage names, this past season saw young independent labels like Setchu and Magliano (winners of the prestigious LVMH prize) take center stage. Emerging brands The Attico, Del Core, and Sunnei also reached significant milestones, with increased visibility and the expansion of their stores. The success of these emerging brands can be attributed to their proximity to suppliers and a robust ecosystem of multi-brand stockists in Milan And while their audiences may be small, they are committed, homegrown, and engaged: three key ingredients for sustainable growth
M I L A N F A S H I O N W E E K : R E F L E C T I O N S O N A R E V O L U T I O N
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The road for independent brands is not without challenges Carlo Capasa, president of Milan Fashion Week's organizing body CNMI, recently spoke about his decade-long efforts to support young brands by providing grants, offering assistance in securing show spaces, and making exemptions from dues. However, he acknowledged that it has been a difficult journey. The lack of racial and linguisti fashion scene has sparked frust designer Stella Jean's withdrawa Week in protest of its slow progr
Furthermore, Milan’s past ide conservative, commercial fa challenges in attracting internat element in re-defining the city not come overnight; however, it The advent of global streetwear presenting at Milan Fashion highlighted by Chinese brand growth of community-driven represent an exciting new w progress.
Milan is at a watershed mom designers featured and the cloth in the way we experience show recently exhibited a major shif greater value on immersive expe purchases and re-imagining the e they live, work, and social emphasized the importance emotions they evoke, tran acquisition of products Fashion in kind, with Milan, the first m return after Covid, becoming offline/online shows, new venue embrace of technology
Even historic houses have welco has created a “metaverse” arou guests into a VR experience for S has eschewed his theatrical runw presentations on a number of occ opened its shows to the public online registration process.
The experiential element of S/S 2024’s shows was heightened by unpredictable weather Diesel’s epic rain show was a spectacle that left guests drenched but smiling, a symbol of the industry’s move towards less restriction and more authenticity It was the perfect storm for a social media coup.
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Yet ironically, this season also saw Milan take a step back from the social media-driven branding that has dominated the fashion cycle
Quiet luxury sensibilities have extended beyond the clothes to the way they are being marketed; Milan is departing from an era of brands that excel in selling dreams but struggle to provide the tangible products that would make them reality. There has been a powerful reconnection with the essence of authentic craftsmanship, transcending the superficial allure of fleeting trends and emphasizing a newfound appreciation for the enduring pleasure of sartorial excellence. Fratelli Rossetti is an excellent example of a brand that has taken the lead in this regard Recent seasons have seen the 70-year-old brand display archival pieces side by side with the new collection and have artisans on hand to provide live demonstrations of how its iconic loafers are made
The clothes on Milan’s runway are also undergoing a revolution S/S 2024 bore witness to a departure from traditional fashion norms, as super short shorts, the absence of pants in favor of tights, and a masterful juxtaposition of simple and complex layering took center stage.
Many brands, within a singular show, presented a visual feast of contrasting elements that boldly challenged the status quo. They also responded to a renewed public interest in Y2K fashion by using avantgarde technologies to provide new interpretations of the bold silhouettes and colorful accessories that dominated runways 20 years ago
Ultimately, Milan Fashion Week S/S 2024 marked a shift towards more immersive experiences and a notable resurgence of independent voices challenging established norms. The city's fashion landscape is evolving with a balance between time-honoured tradition and contemporary innovation, offering promising opportunities for emerging talents and diverse perspectives. As the fashion industry moves towards prioritizing substance over spectacle, Milan has taken a leading role in this transformative journey.
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Elysium Cocktail Club is a celebration of la belle vie. It holds the cocktail bar as a sacred space. At once a ballet, a laboratory, and sanctuary, a great cocktail bar is a passion project that plays a central role in the grand theatre of our lives. Here mixologists pour heart and soul into their craft, people from across the globe unite for special evenings, and ephemeral moments become eternal.
Every year, Elysium Cocktail Club ranks the 75 Most Iconic Bars In The World. There is no formula, no set criteria, no way to game the system. Opulent hotel bars, experimental molecular mixology bars, vibrant speakeasies, you’ll find them all here Elysium believes in transcendent bars, visionary bars: bars that adopt a personality of their own to define the cities they call home and the lives of those they touch Atmosphere, creativity, alchemy this is the Elysium way
This year saw two new entrants into the Top 10, as London’s iconic Connaught Bar moved up 36 spots to #8 while BKK Social Club, an Argentinian-inspired bar in the Four Seasons Bangkok, exploded onto the list at #7. Italy had a second consecutive banner year, with Milano’s White Rabbit and Mandarin Garden and Firenze’s Locale all joining the list. And 300, a rooftop bar just steps from Monaco in the newly-opened Maybourne Riviera, stole our hearts to both make the top 30 and win our new award for Best View.
Proudly presenting Elysium's Top 75 Bars for 2023...read on to see the full list and learn about all the new entrants. Note: This list includes bars visited up until December 31, 2023.
T H E W O R L D ' S 7 5 M O S T I C O N I C B A R S 2 0 2 3 E D I T I O N
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The Maybourne Riviera
1. Bar Hemingway, Paris, France
2. Bar du Bristol, Paris, France
3. The Aviary, Chicago, USA (+1)
4. The Clumsies, Athens, Greece (+1)
5. Red Frog Speakeasy, Lisbon, Portugal (+1)
6. Birds Bodrum, Bodrum, Turkey (+1)
7. BKK Social Club, Bangkok, Thailand (NEW)
BKK Social Club embodies the Elysium Cocktail Club ethos. Truly international, and atypical to the point of oxymoronic, it creates perfect harmony through contrasts. The service and scene are as impeccable as the bar’s location (the Four Seasons Bangkok) implies. Yet the cocktails are as creative and daring as at the most alternative of speakeasies...with each one telling a captivating story. Most are centered on Argentina, the bar’s primary inspiration and the focus of an encyclopedic Central and South American spirits list. For example, the Hand of God, inspired by Diego Maradona’s infamous World Cup goal against England, blends a housemade cacao Malbec wine cordial with campari and Olmec Altos Reposado tequila. The showstopper on the menu pairs a smoky bourbon cocktail with the sweetness of banana bread and a caviar salt bomb.
8. Connaught Bar, London, UK (+37)
London may be the best hotel bar city in the world and the Connaught is still leading the way. The homemade bitters are iconic, the martini is among our all-time top three, and the “Tempo” menu traverses the globe to unite unlikely international flavour combinations in devastatingly memorable concoctions. Try the Adagio, which contains mezcal, Campari, lemon verbena berries, galangal cordial, and the Aosta Valley’s Maley cider. For true connoisseurs, the vintage menu contains classic cocktails mixed from 50+ year old spirits (in the case of the 1,400 GBP Sidecar, the legendary Adet 1893 cognac). And for those who aren’t drinking, the Connaught provides the most elite non-alcoholic cocktail service on the planet. The bar has duplicated the flavours of some of its most memorable cocktails in spirit-free form, and will even give guests the recipes to take home!
9. Ce La Vi, Dubai (-1)
10. Manhattan, Singapore (-1)
11. Nottingham Forest, Milano, Italy (-1)
12. Artesian @ the Langham, London, UK (-1)
13. Hotel de Paris Bar, Monaco (-1)
14. Renaissance Bar at Badrutt’s Palace, Saint Moritz, Switzerland (-1)
All photos from BKK Social Club
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15. Bemelman’s Bar, New York, USA (-12)
16. CitySpace Bar, Moscow, Russia (-2)
17. Atlas, Singapore (-2)
18. Jerry Thomas, Rome, Italy (-2)
19. Widder Bar, Zurich, Switzerland (-2)
20. Untitled, Calgary, Canada (+9)
Having recently celebrated seven years, Untitled continues to push the envelope with the most creative cocktails in Canada and an ever-growing champagne cellar. The menu has greatly expanded, with the current Elysium favourites being the Madame Pompadour (mezcal, pomegranate, amaro, dill bitters, grenadine, and citrus smoked with pomegranate) and the Viceroy (white chocolate infused reposado, rosa, bitters, olive brine, lavender & balsamic, cardamom, saffron, and white chocolate olives). From carrot cake water (in an aquavit-amaro based drink) to mushroom-infused Suntory whiskey (paired with black truffles and coffee liqueur), you’ll find ingredients here you’ve never seen before. More impressively, none are gimmicky - and indeed, all are meticulously tailored to bring a certain flavour pairing to their specific cocktails. Untitled’s recent project is “Listening Pairings” - social Sunday soirees that see a specially designed cotkail menu (often starring guest bartenders) paired with a carefully crafted musical ambience
21. SalonCuma, Istanbul, Turkey (NEW)
Currently run by the visionary Cagri Ozkapi, formerly of Nightjar and Six Senses Kapadokya, the elegantly yet eccentrically decorated SalonCuma feels as much like a friend’s dinner party as a cocktail bar. The warm staff has created a “home away from home” for a cast as international and intriguing as in a Bond movie - with highly creative and distinctly Turkish cocktails as the stars. On my recent visit, Ozkapi took us on an epic voyage of customized cocktails with flavours ranging from satsuma (typical of Bodrum) to scotch, pomegranate, and smoked grappa. The Elysium favourite was a custom scotch cocktail comprised of Laphraoig 10 single malt, Aberlour 12 single malt, pomegranate puree, satsuma, ginger, and dandelion bitters. Yet Ozkapi’s passion at the moment is tiki cocktails - rum lovers should go wild here.
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Top two photos from SalonCuma Untitled
22. Locale, Firenze, Italy (NEW)
A fatally chic space with an elevated DJ booth, a towering bar, and face control, Locale brings contemporary glamour to the historic heart of Firenze in a way that hasn’t been done before. Yet even with this elite scene, it’s the cocktails that are the focus of any evening here. Italian produce is highlighted in the “Oggi al Mercato” portion of the menu, which features such revolutionary ingredients as black miso distillate, grilled corn liqueur, and coriander spirit. The bar also has three signatures that it offers in a tasting set progressing from a floral gin martini to a complex and slightly sweet scotch-based drink. For Elysium, the drink that best exemplifies the bar’s personality, and its “Made in Italy” emphasis, is the Melone (grappa, melon, fennel, Italian green tea, ricotta).
23. PK's, Santorini, Greece (-5)
24. Barmini, Washington, DC (-5)
25. Galaxy Bar, Dubai, UAE (-4)
26. 300 at Maybourne Riviera, RoquebruneCap-Martin, France (NEW)
The rooftop bar in the newly-opened yet already iconic Maybourne Riviera, Le 300 offers expansive views over Monaco and a creative cocktail menu to please and surprise even the most seasoned principality veteran. The influence of Mauro Colagreco (the three Michelinstarred Mirazur chef who operates the hotel's restaurants) is evident. There's an emphasis on local ingredients and delightful combinations of sweet, salty, and savoury. Cocktails are named after Riviera towns, and from Menton (lemon-leaf infused tequila meets Mastiha Skinos) to Antibes (bulleit bourbon meets pollen and chamomile), there's something for everyone. Fittingly the showstopper is the RoquebrunCap-Martin Gimlet, compirsed of Verbena olive oil infused vodka, gin, Vermouth Dry Dolin, Mastiha Skinos, and a cordial of verbena and bitter orange.
Maybourne Riviera
Locale Firenze
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Maybourne Riviera
27. Bar 228, Paris, France (-5)
28. Zuma, Dubai, UAE (-5)
29. Please Don't Tell, New York, USA (-5)
30. Paradiso, Barcelona, Spain (-5)
31. Loggerhead, Kyiv, Ukraine (-5)
32. Xander Bar, St. Petersburg, Russia (-5)
33. Bar at George V, Paris, France (-5)
34. Eleven Mirrors, Kyiv, Ukraine (-4)
35. Caino at the Regis, Firenze, Italy (-15)
36. The 47 at the Kempinski, Istanbul, Turkey (-5)
37. Le Bar at Cheval Blanc, Courchevel 1850, France (-5)
38. Bar @ Plaza Athenee (Paris, France) (+5)
39. Employees Only, New York, USA (-5)
40. Tippling Club, Singapore, Singapore (-5)
41. Blaue Bar @ the Sacher, Vienna, Austria (-5)
42. Trick Dog, San Francisco, USA (-5)
33. Rundle Lounge, Banff, Canada (-5)
44. 28 Hong Kong, Singapore (-5)
45. Mandarin Garden, Milano, Italy (NEW)
The Mandarin Garden has long been the de facto headquarters for Milan Fashion Week‘s elite. The impeccable service, exceptional burrata and aperitivi, and chic outdoor DJ sets make it the place to see and be seen whether you ‘ re working, celebrating, or a model off duty. However, it‘s the special Jules Verne inspired cocktail menu, “Around the World in 80 Days" that launched the bar onto our list. A glowing example of the international fusion that has dominated the new wave of mixology, the menu takes you on the Grand Tour one leg at a time, with drinks such as London-Suez, Calcutta-Hong Kong, and Yokohama-San Francisco. Complex flavour combinations like mango, cardamom, and curry dominate. Complex flavour combinations like mango, cardamom, and curry dominate.
46. Biltmore Bar, Tbilisi, Georgia (-6)
47. Savoy Beaufort Bar, London, UK (-6)
48. Cambridge Public House, Paris, France (-6)
49. Potato Head Beach, Bali, Indonesia (-6)
50. Ory Bar @ the MO, Munich, Germany (-6)
51. Club Bar at the Peninsula, LA, USA (-5)
52. Hemingway Bar, Prague, Czechia (-5)
53. Bamboo Bar @ the Mandarin, Bangkok, Thailand (-5)
54. Bulgari Bar, Milano, Italy ( 4)
55. Baba au Rum, Athens, Greece (-4)
56. 5L Speakeasy, Sofia, Bulgaria (-4)
Maybourne Riviera
57. Zelda, Kyiv, Ukraine (-4)
58. Bar with Shapes for a Name, London, UK (NEW)
Yellow triangle, red square, blue circle Those are the only symbols outside this Shoreditch speakeasy…but don’t be fooled by their simplicity or the austerity of the Bauhuas-style space. Here less is more, and minimalist short drinks are packed with flavour in surprising combinations. You’ll find peach yogurt, licorice, and oolong tea in the bar’s signature drinks: all ingredients that you would never guess based on texture or first sip alone. Perhaps the greatest trompd’oeil achievement is the clairified old fashioned, which combines Irish whiskey, American bourbon, and quince eau de vie. The most memorable sips we ’ ve had here have been completely off-menu; bartender Jack Coppack works with some truly wild savory flavors and will passionately explain each experimental concoction you sample. The scene is lively and represents a fascinating cross-section of London life.
59. King Cole Bar, New York, USA (-5)
60. Moskovsky Bar at the Four Seasons, Moscow, Russia (-5)
61. Dead Rabbit, New York, USA (-12)
Mandarin Garden
62. The Violet Hour, Chicago, USA (-6)
63. Clementine, Edmonton, Canada (-6)
64. Vesper, Bangkok, Thailand (-6)
65. White Rabbit, Milano, Italy (NEW)
An old-fashioned speakeasy tucked away on the streets of Isola, White Rabbit makes you feel like family from the moment you enter The madcap interior is as eccentric as the cast of characters in Alice in Wonderland in the most endearing way. If you’re after a simple aperitif or nightcap, the spirit selection is encyclopedic, and includes the best vodka program in Milan. We normally take Beluga martinis here, but if you want to try a signature cocktail, go with the Poggio di Berceto (Wild Turkey, Vermouth del Professore, bitter campari, fat wash with speck del Tirol). Beware: you’ll need to solve a riddle to get in.
66. Piano35, Torino, Italy (-7)
67. SkyBar, Bratislava, Slovakia (-6)
68. CopperBay, Paris, France (NEW)
One of the coolest new cocktail concepts in Paris, and in Elysium’s opinion a better bar than its more-hyped Marais competitors, CopperBay has a rotating menu that emphasizes cocktails as a multi-sensory experience. This past summer’s menu, which launched the bar onto the list, focused on texture. From furry to fluffy to felty, and the menu was presented with fabric strips to match each cocktail. Unique ingredients, from dijon mustard to popcorn, star…and they are intentionally chosen not for “creativity value” but to give each cocktail a unique and well-balanced flavour profile.
69. Katana Kitten, New York, USA (-7)
70. Top of the Mark, San Francisco, USA (-7)
71. Cadier Bar at the Grand, Stockholm, Sweden (-7)
72. N;B, Kyiv, Ukraine (-7)
73. Bamboo Bar @ Armani, Milano, Italy (+7)
74. Officina, Milano, Italy (-7)
75. Kleber Bar, Paris, France (-7)
NEW: 8 (highest: BKK Social Club at #8)
BIGGEST GAIN: Connaught Bar, +36
BIGGEST FALL: Dante (fell off list from #60)
ELYSIUM NIGHTS AWARD: SalonCuma
BEST VIEW AWARD: 300
CREATIVITYAWARD: Untitled
Leading Cities:
Paris, France (8), New York, USA (6), Milano, Italy (6), Singapore (4), London, UK (4)
Leading Countries:
USA (12), France (10), Italy (10), Ukraine (4), Singapore (4), UK (4), Greece (3), Turkey (3), Thailand (3), Russia (3), Canada (3)
Honourable Mentions:
Bulgari Bar, Dubai, UAE
Yali at the Four Seasons, Istanbul, Turkey
Camparino in Galleria, Milano, Italy
Temple Bar at the Beekman, New York, USA
Woo Bar at the W, Koh Samui, Thailand
Terrazza Bar at Belmond Splendido, Portofino, Italy
Fleek, Istanbul, Turkey
Bar Deja Vu, Canmore, Canada
Bar with Shapes for a Name
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Front & Back Cover Photos: Leroy Velasquez
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Captured at Maison Yoshiki show F/W
Photo: Leroy Velasquez