C o n c e p t b y J e s s e S c o t t i n c o n j u n c t i o n
w i t h E l y s i u m C o c k t a i l C l u b
J e s s e S c o t t
E D I T O R - I N - C H I E F ,
D I R E C T O R O F D E S I G N
L e r o y V e l a s q u e z
D I R E C T O R O F P H O T O G R A P H Y
D i a n a H u k
C O N T R I B U T O R
V i k t o r K o z a k
C O N T R I B U T O R
J a m e s S u l l i v a n
C O N T R I B U T O R
A n a s t a s i a V o r o n t s o v a
C O N T R I B U T O R
“ F a s h i o n i s l i f e - e n h a n c i n g , a n d l i k e e v e r y t h i n g t h a t
g i v e s p l e a s u r e , i t i s w o r t h d o i n g w e l l . . .
B u y l e s s , c h o o s e w e l l , m a k e i t l a s t . ”
- V i v i e n n e W e s t w o o d
RLetter from the Editor
ecently I have been contemplating how we can be more intentional in our consumption of fashion. In my September interview with
Bebe Moratti, the visionary founder of Redemption, expressed frustration with the state of the industry Bebe argued that it’s counterproductive to produce four collections a year; reminiscing about the 90’s golden era, he proposed moving towards a future of “slow fashion” where quality is emphasized over quantity and care over consumption
As an editor who coordinates coverage of well over 100 events four times a year, this resonated. Sometimes it seems as if every month is fashion month, and the packed schedule, in the context of the social media age, has put our industry into information overload. There is simply not enough time to process or fully appreciate all of the content being thrown at us, creating a heightened impetus to be particularly selective about what we are choosing to cover, support, and consume
This paradigm is reflected in the online metrics Business of Fashion made waves recently by raising the elephant in the room: New York Fashion Week is dying Its audience is fatigued; NYFW generates barely half the EMV (ending market value) of Milan and less than a third of that of Paris
The people have spoken the industry is changing And amidst this transitional period, there are exciting new opportunities to reframe our own relationships with fashion.
Both the focus on European fashion and the idea of intentional consumption (whether it be in the clothes we wear or the content we read) have been in Elysium’s DNA since the start. This season we invite you on to a deep dive into a carefully curated selection of brands with a powerful message to send for Spring/Summer 25 You’ll discover Moratti’s triumphant 10th anniversary collection for Redemption, Avavav’s gamechanging collaboration with Adidas, and Ermanno Scervino’s journey into the “freewheeling essence of femininity ” You’ll also read how Aniye Records rolled out the Black Carpet to invert our fashion show experience, Fiorucci entered an exciting new era, and Hui interpreted Ancient China with contemporary sensibility, Of course, all is brought to life with the exceptional black and white photography of Leroy Velasquez
I hope you enjoy this issue. And, from scrolling Instagram to reading the news to shopping for your summer wardrobe, I hope it inspires you to consider the intentionality of your own fashion experiences.
from novels to cocktails, the places and creations that captured our imagination this season
Dogma, Antwerp, Belgium: Oh-so-cool Dogma, in the heart of Antwerp’s old city, is revolutionizing the cocktail game in Belgium. The retro-industrial interior plays host to a creative rotating cast of cocktails notable for its effective inclusion of unexpeted savoury flavours and its expansive selection of unique tequila and emzcal based tipples. Take, for example, the El Matador, which is a “floral, fragrant, and foxy” combination of Patron Reposado, matcha, and cilantro.
The Order: Yellow Perel: Patron reposado, St. Germain, suze, green chartreuse
Pink Wine Bar, Almaty, Kazakhstan: In a vibrant young city rapidly developing its music, wine, and mixology scenes, Pink Wine Bar quite simply has it all. Tucked away discreetly in an alley of Nazarbayeva Street, the speakeasystyle establishment hosts some of Almaty’s best young DJ’s and is a de facto meeting point for the city’s young, avantgarde, and counterculture-oriented. It boasts an outstanding selection of wine by the glass (including orange and natural options) and offers a truffle salmon pizza that was one of the best things I ate on my last trip to Almaty. However, it’s the cocktails that are the true stars. In addition to reinterpreting classics, Pink takes a regional focus by incorporating uniquely Kazakh ingredients into a series of bespoke cocktails. Try something with Kurut, a beloved local fermented cheese.
The Order: Kurt Agha: gin, kurut, lemon, egg white
Ozen Lounge, Astana, Kazakhstan; Located off the lobby of the Ritz-Carlton, elegantly decorated Ozen is the perfect place to settle down for an afternoon of work, meet friends for an evening aperitivo, or savour a nightcap after dinner at the restaurant Selfie (an iconic White Rabbit Family x Good Project-managed establishment) upstairs. Ritz bars are often associated with safe classics, but this team is as innovative as it comes; they release a special new cocktail, often with distinctive local ingredients, each week. Don’t sleep on the food. The diverse yet cohesive menu presents authentic Asian flavours with Kazakh sensibility - for example, Indonesian nasi goreng with horse meat.
The Order: Infinity: Vodka, yogurt liqueur, mango
The Hot List
Dome Bar, Lyon, France: Located under the towering 32metre dome of the Grand Hôtel-Dieu, one of Lyon’s most iconic landmarks, Dome perfectly synthesizes avant-garde mixology with the formal atmosphere and impeccable service of the stately French hotel bar. Each cocktail has a story, and even the minor ingredients are a labour of love. For example, L’ébène, a whiskey cocktail served hot, is topped with whipped cream infused with Guinness and nutmeg syrup. Meanwhile, L’écume, an ingenious creation which combines the richness of figs with creamy almond milk, contains a delicate Shrubb of honey, vinegar, and fig. Be sure to try the Panthéon, a white-tea infused twist on the French 75 that helped Dome win a “Best Hotel Bar in the World” in 2021.
The Order: Le Granat: Cayenne pepper-infused Olmeca Altos, carrot syrup, beetroot, lemon juice, tonic, beet root “angel hair”
Le Grand Bellevue Bar, Gstaad, Switzerland: Amidst strong competition, Le Grand Bellevue emerged as my favourite cocktail bar in Gstaad this season. One of their most memorable new creations is “Rules of Violets,” which sees Cachaça 51 infused with red cabbage to form a hearty colour-changing drink with a touch of sweet and sour.
The Order: Italian Smokehouse: topanito espadin, pineapple infused cynar, martini rosso, agave syrup, BBQ bitters
Le Dome, Lyon
Le Grand Belleveue Bar, Gstaad
HOTELS & RESORTS
Shymbulak Resort Hotel, Almaty, Kazakhstan: The longtime training ground of the Soviet ski team, and the largest and most luxurious ski resort in Central Asia, Shymbulak is a dream alpine destination for adventure-seekers. Just an hour away from Almaty, it’s also the perfect relaxing retreat for residents or visitors of Kazakhstan’s cultural capital. Having just celebrated its 70th anniversary, Shymbulak is both ensconced in rich tradition and distinctly modern...for example, it has developed the highest night skiing area in the world.
The Shymbulak Resort Hotel, the longest-operating hotel in the region, is the de facto choice for Russian and Kazakh elites who want to stay on the mountain. Rustic and romantic, with a charmingly nostalgic Soviet sesnsibility, it offers chalet-style rooms with gorgeous balconies overlooking the Tien Shan mountains. The beautiful spa/sauna area, heated to a proper Russian temperature and complete with a dramatic outdoor pool, is de rigeur after a long day on the slopes. Meanwhile, the on-site restaurant offers a satisfying mix of classics like smoked herring and olivier salad and creative specialties such as horse heart and quinoa.
The Goring, London, England
Gstaad Palace, Gstaad, Switzerland: A fairy tale castle in the peaks, the Gstaad Palace is, quite simply, one of the best hotels in the world. An icon of Swiss elegance and exclusivity, it’s been the de facto choice of royalty and celebrities visiting the Bernese Alps since it opened in 1913. If these walls could talk, they’d have a whole series of novels to tell, And, even in this age of globalization and commodification, which has seen massive conglomerates taking over much of the luxury travel and fashion industry, it’s still family-owned. Julie Andrews said that Gstaad was “the last corner of heaven in a crazy world.” The Palace is the focal point of that corner.
Today it has 90 impeccably decorated rooms in addition to a wide variety of dining and entertainment options. Notable restaurants include the legendary La Fromagerie, where traditional Swiss specialties are served in a cozy, rustic setting (be sure to indulge in the expansive hors d’oeuvres buffet and order the simply divine truffle and champagne fondue). Be sure to visit the bar as well. Affectionately called Gstaad’s living room, it transports you back to the aristocratic age with swoon-worthy live music and a universally impeccably dressed crowd. Furthermore, all guests are treated like family (for example, on my last visit, the burger was customized so as to be exactly like the one I prepare at home).
Finally, one must visit the The Palace Spa; spanning 1,800 square meters, it offers a haven of relaxation with saunas, steam baths, and an outdoor pool overlooking the breathtaking mountain landscape. Essential after a long day on the slopes!
Shymbulak, Kazakhstan
Gstaad, Switzerland
Shymbulak, Kazakhstan
ski hard, party hard: the rhythm of winter 2025.
Korolova to Instasamka, Courch to Gstaad, here’s a playlist to match.
November: Miss You a Little, Bryce Vine, lovelytheband: Ideal for blasting on a road trip, Miss You a Little is a signature Bryce Vine bop - catchy chorus, bittersweet lyrics that veer between jaded and joyful, and an overall intoxicating vibe.
THE PLAYLIST
December: Italove, EMMANUELLE: As winter set in and I began to miss sun-kissed days on the Mediterranean, Italolove became the perfect pick-me-up to start the morning. With a bouncing “Who Loves the Sun”/”Sexual Healing” synth and lyrics that capture the joys of a new summer love, it’s a dreamy song that inspires both nostalgia and a yearning for the warmer months to come.
January: Let’s Go, Jaden Bojsen, Sami Brielle: As the calendar flipped to 2025, the nightlife “powers that be” decided that this would be THE song of the ski season. A typical day in Courchevel: dance on tables at Baies to Let’s Go, dance on tables at Tremplin to Let’s Go, quick break for dinner followed by dancing on tables at Mangeoire to Let’s Go. After all, in Courch, any time can be “9 p.m. on a f*cking Friday.” By the way, who is Jared?
February: Keep it Real, Korolova, JV: A guaranteed hit this upcoming festival season, Keep it Real layers Korolova’s signature melodies with an aggressive hook and a particularly bass-heavy drop.
Ski Season Pick: atzen & barbies, Shirin David, Ski Aggu: “Bad boys, barbies, everyone’s partying.” Name a more appropriate hook for the haze of après ski euphoria.
Deep House: Loverglow, Spada, Korolova: Versatile Loverglow captures the essence of melodic house, mixing romance with an addictive progressive beat and enough energy to raise the temperature of a club.
Russian: Пампим нефть, Instasamka: While almost a year old, Пампим нефть gained a whole new level of traction this winter as Russia descended on Courchevel. Shockingly, Courch does not have a signature song à la Saint Tropez, Monaco, or Dubai: this Instasamka jam, which mentions the resort in its first line, is the closest thing to filling the niche. It sounds particularly good when bombing down the mountain at 100 km/h.
Romantic Pick: Alright, Carter Faith: A profoundly heartfelt song about a rollercoaster new love that may be toxic but feels so, so good, this is one of just many new gems from North Carolina-born Carter Faith. Strong Stuff is also highly recommended.
Country Pick: weren’t for the wind, Ella Langley: The perfect soundtrack for being young, wild, single, and free, weren’t for the wind speaks to those on the relentless pursuit of happiness who inadvertently leave broken hearts in their wake. “Depending on the weather I’m going...might have been different in a different life.”
Throwback Pick: ЗА ДЕНЬГИ ДА, Instasamka: Yes, this is the season of Instasamka. The Королева танцпола of the new season, ЗА ДЕНЬГИ ДА recently gained nightly rotation status in the clubs of Courchevel...and it’s been stuck on my head ever since.
Workout Pick: Hooked, NOTION: NOTION has rapidly become a young king of heavy baseline, his sticky beats and hard-hitting (ahem, hard-partying) lyrics carving out a unique niche within the electronic scene. Bringing the heat to both ski days and après, Hooked will fill you with a fire to straightline down the slopes then make out with someone on a table as the sun sets.
Fireside Pick: Baby Blue Movie, Cigarettes After Sex: Cigarettes After Sex never gets old. Their latest album, X’s, is one of their best to listen through start-to-finish (and that’s saying a lot). Baby Blue Movie has a heartwrenching wistful lilt; other must-listens include Dark Vacay, Holding You Holding Me, and Ambient Slide.
THE READING LIST
Ceremony, Brianna Wiest: “Your life is your own. I want it to pass through your head so many times it slowly clears out the debris of your fear. I want you to meditate on it until you realize that you aren't too strange, you just have the courage to be your true self; you are not too different, you just have the courage to follow your own heart; you are not unworthy, you are just honest about the very natural, human experience of feeling unworthiness. Every person alive wishes to embody these very same forms of freedom They are not judging you, they are expressing the parts of themselves they’ve judged into silence. Your life is your own and it always will be. You must find the courage to claim it, or it will pass by you untouched - a glimmering, lost potential of all that could have been.” So reads one of the most powerful paragraphs from Ceremony, the latest profound and poetic reflection from Brianna Wiest.
Wiest explores the idea that life itself is a sacred ritual in which every experience, joy, and struggle contributes to our evolution. Through beautifully crafted prose and thoughtprovoking insights, she gently guides readers through themes of resilience, self-love, and the art of embracing change. Her words have a way of cutting through doubt and fear, offering clarity and empowerment in their place. A book to read in small doses, and maybe even journal about, Ceremony feels like an intimate heart-to-heart conversation applicable to those in a variety of situations. It reminds us that we have the power (and the responsibility to ourselves) to create the life we desire.
Surrounded by Idiots, Thomas Erikson: Have you ever felt frustrated trying to communicate with someone who just doesn’t seem to understand you? In Surrounded by Idiots, behavioral expert Thomas Erikson reveals that the problem might not necessarily be that people are “idiots’ but instead that we all have different communication styles. Using a simple and effective four-color personality model, entitled “Red, Yellow, Green, and Blue,” he breaks down how different people think, behave, and interact. For example, reds are bold, decisive, and results-driven, yellows are energetic, creative, and social, greens are calm, supportive, and conflict-averse, and blues are analytical, detail-oriented, and logical.
Erikson approaches the book with the diligence expected from a psychologist, yet his insights are practical, humorous, and backed by real-life examples. This is an engaging and potentially transformative read that’s hard to put down.
The Art of the Deal, Donald Trump: Donald Trump has rapidly changed America’s political, social, and economic landscapes since taking office for his second term this January. He’s also had a massive impact on international relations and captivated the attention of people around the globe. To understand Trump;’s strategies, and how he has been able to so effectively exert his influence on both domestic and foreign actors, his iconic book The Art of the Deal is mandatory reading.
Published in 1987, the book is part memoir, part business guide, offering a behind-the-scenes look at how Trump originally built his real estate empire. Co-written with journalist Tony Schwartz, the book outlines Trump’s approach to negotiation, deal-making, and long-term business strategy. The book is structured in two main parts. The first, “A Week in Trump’s Life,” offers a detailed look at how he manages business negotiations, meetings, and deals in real time. The second, “Trump’s Business Philosophy,” shares key lessons from some of his biggest deals, including real estate investments, hotel developments, and casino acquisitions.
The. book is not only a valuable lens through which to view global events but also offers excellent insights for conducting one’s own business dealings. Key takeaway lessons include “think big (success starts with ambition),” “maximize your leverage (always find ways to gain the upper hand in a negotiation),” “fight back (never let setbacks or critics define you),” and “know your market” (understanding trends and opportunities is crucial).
Rainier & Grace, Jeffrey Robinson: Written with what at the time was unprecedented cooperation from the Monagesque royal family, Rainier & Grace offers an intimate portrait of perhaps the 20th century’s most glamorous couple. From whirlwind romance to fairy tale wedding to the daily rigors of running the Principality, Robinson takes us on a comprehensive journey through an epic love story. He paints a deeply human portrait. In exploring Grace Kelly’s transformation from an Oscar-winning actress to a dedicated princess and mother, Robinson highlights her struggles with royal expectations, the media spotlight, and her desire for a meaningful role in Monaco’s development. Similarly, the book provides insight into Prince Rainier’s efforts to modernize Monaco while balancing his duties as a husband, father, and ruler. A must-read before the next Monaco summer.
Tajikistan National Museum, Dushanbe, Tajikistan: Tajikistan’s premier cultural and historical institution, established in 1934 shortly after the establishment of the Tajik SSR and relocated to a gorgeous modern building in 2013, the museum offers a comprehensive look through Tajikistan’s rich history, art, and natural heritage. I’d recommend beginning with the expansive history exhibitions, which take you on a riveting journey through a culturally rich region that was once at the center of the Silk Road and has seen countless empires come and go over the past millennia. Tajikistan became a part of the Russian empire in the late 1800's, and Dushanbe was named the capital of an autonomous Soviet republic (at the time under Uzbekistan) in 1924. In addition to ancient history, the museum outlines the contours of this complex period, ultimately detailing the development of the modern state.
The museum’s art department contains perhaps its largest treasure trove. Highlights include the intricate woodworks of Sirojiddin Nuriddinov, epic portraits from the socialist realism period (including the works of well-known local artists Mukhiddin Olimov and Mirozahim Ikromov) and vibrant representative pieces from the explosion of creativity that occurred across Tajikistan following the Soviet Union’s collapse.
Be sure not to miss the Sleeping Buddha of Ajina-Tepe, at 13 metres one of the largest Buddhist relics ever discovered in Central Asia. End your visit with the natural history section downstairs, which offers a detailed and visually striking overview of Tajkisitan’s little-known yet incredible mountainous regions.
Monument Istiklol, Dushanbe, Tajikistan: Officially inaugurated in 2022 to mark the 30th anniversary of Tajikistan’s independence, the breathtaking Istiklol monument, a gilded tower amidst grounds reminiscent of a modern-day Versailles, stands as a powerful symbol of national pride and unity.
A signature project of President Emomali Rahmon, the tower stands at 121 metres and is topped by a golden crown symbolizing the Tajik national emblem and the ancient Samanid dynasty. Galleries inside the opulent marble space share Tajik folk tradition with guests; meanwhile, the stunning rooftop observation deck offers commanding views of Dushanbe and the surrounding Pamir Mountains.
ART & CULTURE
Musée Soieries Brochier, Lyon, France: The Musée Soieries Brochier is a small yet remarkable museum dedicated to the art of silk weaving and textile craftsmanship. Lyon has been the historic center of the silk industry since the 16th century, and the Brochier family, renowned silk manufacturers since 1890, have played a significant role in preserving this tradition. The museum offers a fascinating journey through the history of silk production in Lyon, from the Renaissance era to modern haute couture. Exhibits highlight the role of Lyonnais silk in French fashion, royal courts, and the global textile trade, including authentic Jacquard looms (which revolutionized fashion in the 19th century), and iconic dresses from names such as Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent.
Museum Plantin-Moretus, Antwerp Belgium: The former home of the Moretus family, who ran one of the most influential printing houses of the Renaissance and Baroque period, this UNESCO world heritage site offers fascinating insights into the early days of printing, book production, and typography. The museum hosts the two oldest surviving printing presses in the world, in addition to an encyclopedic library of centuries-old printed treasures. It also provides valuable modern context...for example, did you know that Times New Roman, Arial, and the other dominant fonts of today are all exact copies or direct descendants of printing press fonts that are almost 500 years old.
Tajikistan National Museum
Tajikistan National Museum
Tajikistan National Museum
Monument Istiklol
Monument Istiklol
Museum PlantinMoretus
EDITOR'S DINING PICKS: WINTER 2024/25 MENU
Spiced Horse Tartare with Eel, Qazaq Gourmet, Astana, Kazakhstan: You’d be hard-pressed to find a more powerful yet well-balanced punch of flavor. Spiced horse tartare is paired with the rich umami of eel and coated with a decadent truffle aioli for a dish that combines the best of Kazakh tradition & modern luxury.
Crab Bruschetta, Riba Pila, Astana, Kazakhstan: The best seafood restaurant in the Kazakh capital, and one of the sexiest spots for a night out in the city, Riba Pila perfectly blends Russian, Japanese, and Thai influences. The Kamchatka crab bruschetta is to die for (so much so I often ordered seconds).
Burrata with Jalapeños & Cantaloupe, Baies, Courchevel 1850, France: A simple yet transcendent dish made with the highest quality ingredients, the Baies burrata is a dream combo of tropical fruit, sharp spice, and a decadent creamy texture. Make this a global trend!
Bottarga Oeufs Mimosa, Maison du Caviar, Paris, France: A Russian twist on oeufs mimosa? Yes please. This dish has been added to the usual surprise avocado/borscht/tarama rotation at one of my favourite fashion week spots.
Beef Liver Charmoula, L’Amandier, Fes:, Morocco While most restaurants in Fes cater to Western expectations by offering a standard rotation of salads, harira soup, and tagines, L’Amandier (located in the Palais Faraj) emphasizes flavors of the true Moroccan home. Their beef liver charmoula (served in a delightfully rich jus) and the lamb brain with spices were the best dishes I ate on my Morocco trip. The waiter: “they taste just like my mother’s.”
Oursins, Central Marche, Casablanca, Morocco: Casablanca’s central market is a seafood lover’s dream. Come early to buy a selection of shrimp, lobster, and fish caught in the Atlantic just hours before...then have it grilled at one of the many stands just outside. The sea urchins (at 5 dirham or $0.50 each) are the best I’ve ever tasted, and the oysters, served Moroccan style with crab, sashimi, and even seaweed on top, are also a revelation.
Zhylyk May, Sandyq, Astana, Kazakhstan: A massive canoe-cut marrow bone, served with traditional Kazakh bread and spicy sauce and meant to be prepared like a “pita pocket,” Zhylyk May is a local delicacy best served here.
Belarusian Salo, Refugio del Monte, Shymbulak, Kazakhstan: This hidden gem serves near-Michelin-star level Russian, Italian, and classic French cuisine high in the Kazakh mountains. The Belarusian Salo, served on a grand platter with an assortment of sides, is to die for.
Truffle Tartiflette, La Casserole, Courchevel 1850, France: Almost entirely covered in freshly shaved black truffles, this is the best tartiflette in the world. Sinful.
Champagne and Truffle Fondue, La Fromagerie, Gstaad, Switzerland:, One of the best fondues in the world (sensing a theme here?) The decadent après ski dinner is made even better by a rustic Swiss setting - inside the paradoxically swanky Gstaad Palace - complete with red checkered tablecloths and costumed waiters.
Beshbarmak, Qazaq Gourmet, Astana, Kazakhstan: Perhaps the most iconic of Kazakh dishes, beshbarmak consists of wide lasagna-style noodles served in a rich broth with onions and three different types of horse meat. A bowl of bone broth with cheese to taste is traditionally sipped on the side. This is the most flavourful I’ve had in Astana.
Horse Shashlik, Nasha Dacha, Astana, Kazakhstan: Perfectly tender and generously portioned with jsut the right mix of spices, the shashlik at Nasha Dacha had me coming back time and time again this winter. That’s saying something in shashlik-obsessed Central Asia!
Pigeon Pastilla, L’Amandier, Fes, Morocco: This traditional Moroccan dish is a half-savory half-sweet blend of baby pigeon, lightly scrambled egg, icing sugar, and cinnamon.
Halibut with Pomegranate: Les Terrasses de Lyon, Lyon, France: Served in a surprisingly rich sauce of pomegranate, beets, and fermented fish juice, this dish is the highlight of Les Terrasses’ stellar tasting menu.
Pink Praline Tart, Maison Victoire, Lyon, France: No one knows precisely how the tradition started, but pink pralines are a Lyonnaise specialty. Victoire’s delightfully sticky tart, found at the famous Halles de Paul Bocuse, is a must-have on every visit to the city.
Truffle Macaron, Pierre Herme, Paris, France: An exquisitely balanced new addition to the Herme rotation.
La Fromagerie
Les Terrasses de Lyon
Want your favourite destination, song, or book on the Elysium Hot List? Know anywhere we should hear about?
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Destination of the Season: Astana, Kazakhstan
Photo Originally Published in Rain Magazine, credits Aizhan Aimenova
RUNWAY
REDEMPTION
WORDS JESSE SCOTT
PHOTOS: LEROY VELASQUEZ
For the past ten years Bebe Moratti has made waves in the Milanese fashion scene with his free-spirited brand Redemption. Equal parts elegant and audacious, with no shortage of red carpet glamour or sex appeal, Redemption dresses a myriad of international celebrity clientele for the biggest events of each season. The brand and the women who it dresses are inseparable from Moratti himself. Blessed with a charismatic rockstar persona, and always unapologetically authentic, his universe is one of powerful women who revel in the spotlight and turn heads wherever they go. “Our woman is a rockstar,” Moratti told Rain magazine following the Spring/Summer 2025 show. “Being a rockstar doesn’t mean anything besides being comfortable with who you are and not caring about what the rest of the world thinks,” he elaborated. “I think that’s something the world really needs right now - self-acceptance and being yourself no matter what. The Redemption woman is inspired by people that created their own style and their own world. This [show] is what we try to give them.”
Moratti has resoundingly succeeded. And the Spring/Summer 2025 offering may have been his best yet. Styled as a “Greatest Hits” collection, it was an exuberant celebration of the brand’s 10th anniversary featuring sixteen brand new looks interspersed with the most iconic Redemption pieces originally designed in seasons past. High drama was the theme of the night, appropriate given that this was perhaps the biggest event on Day One of Milan Fashion Week. The massive darkly lit runway (located in Milan’s East End Studios) played host to a starstudded audience buzzing in anticipation for the show.
It then turned into a cavernous club for an electric after-party with a set from Victoria DeAngelis, DJ/rockstar best known for her role as a bassist with Eurovision-winning Måneskin.
Yet it was the clothes that stole the spotlight, as Moratti held nothing back in terms of colour, structure, or shape. One particularly dazzling look (#47) was a bejeweled short red dress with voluminous shoulders fanning out like butterfly wings. These weren’t the only dramatic shoulders or wing allusions of the day. One look had layered ruffles billowing like the wings of a deadly back swan. Elsewhere, fierce angular shoulders added a particular swagger to an iridescent red double-breasted jacket/dress and a black coat with a shimmering jagged pattern resembling shattered glass.
Moratti played with the feminine and masculine throughout the collection. Oversized ruffled roses recurred on a number of pieces with couture-style flare and detailing. Quasi-transparent black dresses were irresistibly feminine. In contrast, two models cut tomboy rockstar silhouettes in black blazers and pants worn over white dress shirts with skinny black ties. The blazers were a major highlight of the collection. I was particularly enamored by a black pinstripe (reminiscent of the power suits from the Wolf of Wall Street days) worn over a little back dress, in addition to a white jacket worn topless. In a creative touch, a singular man appeared on the runway. Sporting a glamorous tux-style suit with wide lapels, he recalled the 90’s style hedonism synonymous with both this show and Moratti’s legacy with Redemption so far.
Moratti is looking for a return to the 90’s both in his aesthetic and his design process. When asked how he sees Redemption changing as it enters its second decade, he told Rain that he would love to step back towards the “slower fashion” of twenty to thirty years ago.
“I know that I don’t want to do four collections a year because overconsumption is ridiculous. We’re probably going to go back to what was done in the 90’s and do collections… whenever, more spaced out.” This philosophy is beautifully aligned with the DNA of the brand. And this DNA is something that Moratti does not see shifting.
“[Redemption has] never really changed much,” he remarked. ‘I know what I know and I know what I love. I love music, I know what music stands for, and one of the reasons I’m passionate about rock & roll is not just the music but the fact that it stood across the decades for many human rights movements and it pushed them forward. A lot of people stood on the stage not only for music but…for something good. We need a lot of that right now; we need a lot of people to use their craft to bring a positive message to a world that has a lot of polarity and negativity.”
Moratti possesses a bold devil-maycare attitude and lives life by his own rules. Effortlessly rock & roll while taking his final bow in a vintage Nirvana tee-shirt and backwards cap (“Smells Like Teen Spirit” fittingly soundtracked the show), he is what fashion needs more of. And beneath his rollicking swagger is an insatiable lust for life and making the world a better place.
Deeply inspired by music, Moratti uses fashion as his own microphone to bring optimism and joy to the global stage. “A lot of things have changed in the past ten years, but the world needs to change, still, so much,” he told Rain. “In some places we’re actually going backwards instead of forwards. We’ll keep trying to be disruptive. We need to stand for something.”
Moratti has a marvelous team standing with him. In the afterglow of the Tenth Anniversary show he reflected that the momentous occasion was not intended to be self-celebratory but instead to “pay homage to the people that made us who we are - our customers, our fans, and especially everyone who works at Redemption…the seamstresses, the pattern-makers, everyone I spend countless sleepless nights with working on the collections.” Those sleepless nights and that loyal team, combined of course with Moratti’s inspired vision, has produced triumph after triumph over the past decade. Redemption is poised for even greater success to come…and we can’t wait for the start of the next era.
BEHIND THE SCENES
ERMANNO SCERVINO RUNWAY
WORDS JESSE SCOTT
PHOTOS: LEROY VELASQUEZ
Ermanno Scervino is eternally one of the highlights on the Milan Fashion Week calendar. During the Spring/Summer 2025 season, on a dramatic stage beneath the iconic Piazza Luna Bo Bardi, Scervino organized what could be argued was the best show of the entire week. Entitled “Tailoring Freedom,” and an ode to what the brand described as “unrestrained femininity as a manifesto in today’s world of contradictions,” the collection was versatile, transcendent of generations and styles, and possessed of a powerful purpose. Reinterpreting the bold silhouettes of the 1960’s and 70’s with distinctly modern sensibility, Scervino presented an aesthetic that was as ferocious as it was feminine. This was truly Scervino unleashed; an elegant and empowering celebration of what he called the “freewheeling essence of femininity.”
True to his DNA, with innovative illusions, a diverse colour palette, and an emphasis on supple knitwear, he proposed a triumphant mix of pieces that many iterations of the contemporary woman could easily see herself wearing.
The dichotomy of the opening and final looks is a powerful metaphor for the collection as a whole. The initial model to strut the runway wore a simple geometric white jacket, an intricate short lace dress, and sandals that evoked “sophisticated casual” with their nautical-style ropes wrapping around the angles à la Rene Caovilla’s red-carpet ready Cleos. Meanwhile, the final look was all dark drama, as a delicately pleated sheer black dress swept dramatically down the runway.
Delicately sweeping down the runway like a mischievous fairy from a seaside iteration of Neverland, and completed by a statement double-chained necklace with a green opal-esque stone, it was a seductive sirenreminiscent look that will stand out among the omnipresent mass of boho chic next summer. Meanwhile, the next look offered a sleek, feminized, and elevated interpretation of the increasingly trendy safari chic aesthetic. The khaki jacket was slinky instead of structured, made of a luxurious suede, featuring embroidered details on the arms, and paired with a tiny suede mini-skirt and dramatic knee-high boots. Perhaps most impressive was the hand-crocheted knit bralette, which added yet another layer of delicate femininity. It inverted expectations, indeed marking Scervino’s rebellion from the connotations of an aesthetic typically seen as rebellious due to its masculinity!
It was the faux denim that was the star of the show. Scervino created couturestyle evening wear from an aesthetic that has come to define the “everywoman” - of course using only the finest silks and other luxury textiles. It danced across a silky quasitransparent slip dress (emblazoned with the same shimmering floral pattern as the pink mermaid look), a blazer-bralette combo with dramatic lapels, a strapless sheath with thousands of intricately distressed details, and even an oversized trenchstyle coat paired with a short skirt. The undisputed champion of a Milanese season where faux denim was king, it was a display of masterful tailoring and craftsmanship that many will emulate but few will imitate.
In discussing the diversity of the looks, which still comprised an undeniably cohesive whole, Scervino said: “Today’s woman explores the contradictions of her femininity and that what makes her modern. She isn’t influenced by what she wears, but rather, she uses it as a tool to highlight her personality.” By making contradictions complementary, Scervino encapsulated the rebellious spirit of the 1960’s and 1970’s through a lens possessed of a distinct modernity, effortless creativity, and innate understanding of the modern. With the canvas of cashmere, suede, silk, and of course the omnipresent knits, who could resist?
ANIYE RECORDS
WORDS: Jesse Scott
PHOTOS: Courtesy of Aniye Records
Welcome to the black carpet (or the bullpen)! Aniye Records created chaos for their Spring/Summer 2025 show, subverting expectations for a traditional fashion event and offering an experience that brought the brand’s signature rockstar attitude to a heightened degree of intensity. The sophisticated silhouettes that we associate with Alessandra Marchi (I have written before about how she, à la Picasso, learned the rules like a pro so she could break them like an artist) were present in their usual glory. But this was no show for the faint-hearted; it was a veritable assault on the senses in the best way.
Upon entry into the darkened show space, guests were confronted not by a traditional runway and seats. Instead there was a chaotic mosh pit with risers on one side and a partially elevated Black Carpet catwalk - demarcated by the chrome security barriers typical outside night clubs and of fashion shows like this - on the other. Forget comfortable front row seating. Guests became paparazzi, jostling, pushing, and even chucking elbows to maneuver their way into what they anticipated would be the best viewing spots. Just minutes after I entered, and when the battle for positioning was still raging, a hush dropped and audio of a guest supposedly arriving to the show played. “I’m f*cking late…I’m pulling up to the show right now” she yapped to a friend with a peppy LA affectation. “Aniye Records. Oh my god. I’ll talk to you later. Mwah, bye.” As the audio cut, the “guest” strutted onto the black carpet as the first model.
Eschewing the icy expressionless swagger that we see at most shows, and indeed from Aniye last season, she slowly sashayed along as if entering an event to the flashes of paparazzi cameras and cheers of adoring fans (which, indeed, she was). Smiling, waving, and striking poses for those pressed against the barriers, she set the tone for an electric thirteen minutes of interactive spectacle.
Her all-white dress - exquisitely Aniye - was a perfect ground zero for interpreting those that followed. The pearl-cross-embellished piece, with a supremely short skirt in front and a flowing train at the back, drew immediate parallels to Marchi’s rockstar-inspired collection from last season. Sexy and irreverent, it was completed by a glamourous headdress made of dozens of interconnected pearls and crystals. All it was missing, one could posit, was a lit cigarette dangling nonchalantly at the model’s side à la Kate Moss for Louis Vuitton in 2011. The models proceeded down the runway at an almost leisurely pace, many further charging the atmosphere by stopping to embrace and take selfies with guests. Several strutted out as power couples, adding a further layer of realism, ironically achieved through superficiality, to the season’s metaphor. At times radiantly smiling, and always exuding deadly chic, the models had the red carpet (or black carpet) walk down to a fine art. Meanwhile, the clothes were constructed true to Alessandra Marchi’s DNA: couture-like precision disguised as casual cool.
Encapsulating the high school “rebel with a cause” attitude evoked by the hip-hop-heavy soundtrack and the Fall/Winter 24/25 show, distressed black jeans were paired with a glittering halter top extending into a long cape. The term “high school” is only meant as a compliment. Far from “Gilmore Girls” mediocrity and “Gossip Girl” polish, this collection was a throwback to 90’s cool kids who grew up in the age of heroin chic and invented their own sophisticated grunge-sum-glamour. In Paris Hilton’s recent memoir, the queen of turn-ofthe-century party girls describes sneaking out of her parents’ New York apartment and going clubbing until 5 am from the age of 13 on. This was a collection picture-perfect for the spots which she would frequent.
Marchi was fearless in combining aesthetics - to spectacular effect. A personal favourite couple look saw a man in slicked-back hair, a muscle shirt, and jeans next to a woman with red heels and a white dress notable for its surprisingly sharp shoulders and a buttoned-up Victorian style collar.
Next walked a woman in an oversized tuxedo-dress with a deep V cut and (checks notes) kitten heels complemented by ballet-style stockings and ribbons. The surprises weren’t finished. I was delighted by a lingerie-inspired black dress worn with fur, a fierce stud-embellished trench coat, and a red-carpet ready asymmetrical tux crop top worn with a massive silver choker. Even the most elegant looks carried an urban edge, and even the most grungy looks had an undeniable sartorial sophistication.
This was a collection for women who can discuss philosophy at the smokefilled basement afters of a techno rave - looking effortlessly cool, and just the right amount of disheveled, even at 7 am following a substancefilled night.
As expected, the craftsmanship was meticulous and no detail was unintentional. Marchi again demonstrated her love for ruffled layers, seductive quasi-transparent knits, long strips of fabric dangling from dresses as if unfinished, and powerful messaging through statement jewelry. The collection, like the show, was an allencompassing sensory experience that played with texture, colour, and light to create a delightfully versatile yet impressively cohesive aesthetic progression.
I write this at a flashpoint during which celebrity fashion week attendees draw more clicks, attention, and revenue than the shows themselves. Aniye Records, by turning models into guests and guests into paparazzi, inverted public focus, subverted stereotypical roles in the drama that is fashion week, and provided a powerful social commentary on the industry. The show was rebellious and unapologetic. Profoundly thoughtprovoking while seemingly utterly effortless, it was, most of all, a type of chaotic and hedonistic fun that we could all use more of. With VIP guests instantaneously transformed from perfectly coiffed front row stars into members of the mad throng on the *other* side of the metal barricade, there were two choicesmiss the show or embrace and enjoy the frenzy.
Some egos were bruised. But most seized the opportunity to cast aside their fashion week predispositions, inhibitions, and mannerisms (you weren’t going to get your photo taken or capture the perfect final walk video anyway) and submit to unadulterated enjoyment of the energy. I left the show with a smile on my face and shockingly, given that it was night five of Milan Fashion Week and I was wearing my most uncomfortable shoes, a revitalized spring in my step.
Then again, maybe I was just running late to another event. “Aniye Records was a triumph babe. Hottest show of the week. Anyway, just arrived to this cocktail thing. Mwah, ciao ciao."
AVAVAV
WORDS JESSE SCOTT
PHOTOS: LEROY VELASQUEZ
RUNWAY
If there’s one thing we have come to learn about Avavav shows, it is to expect the unexpected. The Spring/Summer 2025 offering did not disappoint, as the subversive brand led by Swede Beate Karlsson staged what can best be described as the world’s worst attempt to set a world record in the 100-metre dash. Both satire and statement, and featuring a surprising collaboration with Adidas Originals that hit all the right notes, it was a true coup de grace to close the last afternoon of Milan Fashion Week.
Guests knew they were in for a special spectacle from the moment they arrived at the venue. I triple-checked the invitation to ensure the address was correct…surely one of the world’s hottest counterculture brands, whose following is far more likely to wear nose rings than varsity jackets, would not be holding their show at one of Milano’s most iconic sporting venues. Yet that’s exactly what Karlsson did, and as the almost exclusively young guests filed into the Forza e Coraggio, hip hop blasting from the speakers, they found an atmosphere far more reminiscent of a high school football match than an underground rave (the underground rave was the electric vodka-fueled after-party that lasted well into Monday morning). We sat along two rows of simple metal benches, discovering a water bottle and an electrolyte gel (provided by Swedish sports performance brand Vitargo) at each place. Some took advantage of the unique setting to create some explosive fashion week content, using the track and soccer goalposts as props. Then, as a series of models crowded outside the metal fences bordering the stadium, an emcee came out to begin the show.
In the midst of all these, I fell in love with a number of more wearable looks that are sure to be commercial successes. A black graphic tee paired with a pleated schoolgirl skirt captured the essence of hipster high school streetwear. The tee read “Finisher Forza e Coraggio 0.08 km,” the comically short distance, itself even 20 metres short of the 100-metre dash that the models were supposedly attempting, emblematic of the delightful dysfunction for which Avavav is known. Elsewhere, Adidas track jackets were re-interpreted as crop tops and blazers, cheekily twisted into both street chic and a take on formal wear that only Karlsson could pull off so effectively. Trompe d’oeil skirts were constructed with faux sleeves to create the illusion of a hoodie being tied around the waist. Distressed hoodies with oversized cutouts, one paired with high-waisted workmanlike denim pants, gave off the perfect amount of grunge. An oversized red puffer would look at home among the Moncler’s and Canada Goose’s of ski towns. And Karlsson even offered an interpretation of prep, as a perfectly coiffed blonde model laboured down the runway in her ‘tennis whites’ (although of course her classic polo was contrasted by oversized red mittens).
The iconic Avavav four-fingered shoe returned, this time as a shell-toe attachment on Adidas Superstar sneakers. Karlsson also offered a particularly strong line-up of whimsical yet wearable baseball caps, some with three-fingered cutouts on the brim and others with three thin strings of fabric waving down over the models’ faces like the Adidas three stripes.
The show was a watershed moment for Avavav; to create a bold collaboration with a massive brand such as Adidas in just its fourth year of existence is testament to how Karlsson has made waves throughout a broad cross-section of the global fashion community.
“It has been a long-time dream of mine to partner with Adidas Originals. I’m honoured and beyond happy to have the opportunity to play around with their incredibly strong DNA; it’s so much fun! Especially since Avavav is still such a baby compared to Adidas, which comes with so much legacy and history,” Karlsson acknowledged to the press. Yet it is also a testament to Adidas as a visionary innovator even as it remains secure as a mainstream icon and a global leader in athletic fashion.
“From the beginning of our partnership, I was encouraged to ‘make fun’ of adidas,” Karlsson tellingly told the press. “There’s so much irony in how seriously we take both sports and fashion, and exploring that while maintaining a serious attitude has been incredibly fun.” For Adidas to embrace this philosophy demonstrates a truly progressive and refreshing mindset, and one that should create ripples - and opportunities - for luxury fashion, counterculture fashion, and sportswear sectors alike.
On the last day of Milan Fashion Week, this collaboration offered an exciting look into a bright future that extends beyond either of the brands involved.
LUISA BECCARIA
RUNWAY
WORDS: DIANA HUK
PHOTOS: LEROY VELASQUEZ
As the warm sunlight spills over the streets of Milan, there is no better way to spend a beautiful summer day than with a romantic lunch in a perfectly styled outfit. This season, one collection stands alone as the ideal choice for such an occasion: Luisa Beccaria Spring/Summer 2025. Luisa Beccaria, a name synonymous with timeless elegance and romantic sophistication, exquisitely captured the essence of what it means to dress with both style and substance. Beccaria’s designs are loved by influential ladies across the globe, a testament to her understanding of the modern woman’s needs for both beauty and practicality. Her Spring/Summer 2025 collection took us on a journey where every piece told a story of timeless romance and delicate craftsmanship.
The venue itself, Lùbar, perfectly mirrored the theme of the show. A picturesque Milanese cafe renowned for its romantic ambience, LuBar turned into the dreamy backdrop for a collection where nature, art, and grace beautifully intersected. An idyllic setting for a date with fashion, the space became an extension of the collection - a living, breathing tribute to femininity where soft fabrics swirled around the models much like petals drifting in the garden air. Beccaria created an immersive and intimate experience for a highly exclusive guest list, who sipped on fresh juice as the designer unveiled her latest vision. This season she showcased her ability to marry shades of Impressionist romanticism with contemporary sensibility. In an era of fast fashion and fleeting trends, Beccaria continues to remind us of the importance of timelessness.
Her designs offer a refreshing antidote to the modern rush, emphasizing instead an appreciation for craftsmanship, delicacy, and the enduring allure of romance. The Spring/Summer collection feels like it was created for the screen; elegant, serene, and utterly captivating, the wardrobe was fit for a royal family member spending her off-duty hours at a garden picnic.
A key theme running through the collection is Beccaria’s deep understanding of nature. The dresses are imbued with an organic essence, reconnecting us to the essential aspects of life. From the soft sway of a silk gown, reminiscent of a rustling breeze, to the intricate embroidery of floral patterns, each look is a celebration of the natural world.
Soft fabrics floated gently around the body, creating a sense of effortless elegance. Floral motifs, a hallmark of Beccaria's designs, were dominant Subtly woven into the fabrics to evoke a sense of femininity without overwhelming the wearer, the handpainted and embroidered blooms added layers of intimacy to the collection, ensuring each piece felt as personal as a note from a loved one.
From voluminous gowns perfect for an evening gala to sequin-embellished sets ideal at a light-hearted birthday gathering, the collection ensures that you will always feel ready for any occasion. Elegant yet accessible, it struck a perfect balance between opulence and ease. Baby blue with soft pink was the predominant colour combination, the pastel tones evoking a sense of calm, purity, and innocence.
These gentle shades, often seen in the flowing gowns and delicate blouses, were complemented by earthy tones of terracotta, soft greens, and warm browns.
The collection also stands as evidence of Beccaria’s commitment to sustainability. In an era where conscious fashion is becoming increasingly important, the designer ensured that her Spring-Summer 2025 collection aligns with eco-friendly practices. The use of sustainable materials and ethical craftsmanship demonstrated that each piece is not only a work of art but also a reflection of Beccaria’s respect for the environment and her commitment to preserving it for future generations.
What can we conclude? Luisa Beccaria's Spring-Summer 2025 collection is a stunning celebration of nature and femininity. With her soft colours, delicate florals, and effortless silhouettes, it’s clear that Beccaria understands the modern woman's desire for both beauty and comfort. As you slip into one of her creations, you are not just wearing a dress - you are stepping into a world of grace, romance, and the timeless charm of nature itself.
“WE ARE LIVING IN TIMES WHICH MARK THE NEED FOR A NEW LIFESTYLE, IN ORDER OT TAKE AUTHENTIC VALUES BACK, MOVING TOWARDS NATURE AND ITS RHTYHM, UNLIMITED SOURCE OF JOY AND BEAUTY.”
Luisa Beccaria, 2020, in the film “Know Thyself”
HUI: LE GRAND TOUR
RUNWAY
WORDS: ANASTASIA VORONTSOVA
PHOTOS: LEROY VELASQUEZ
Le Grand Tour, Hui's Spring/Summer 2025 collection, is a comprehensive homage to the intellectual, emotional, and geographic explorations of self that women embark on. Hui’s designer, Hui Zhou Zhao, continued to explore strong female identities with a collection that is as much about cultural intersection as it is about personal development. By carefully combining Eastern and Western aesthetics, Hui crafted a powerful story that challenges modern ideas of femininity while simultaneously honouring the legacy of female icons.
This collection tells a contemporary story of cultural exploration and selfreinvention, drawing inspiration from the legendary Grand Tour, a rite of passage that saw European aristocrats visit the continent's artistic and cultural centres. The evocative poetry of Du Fu, a well-known figure from China's Tang Dynasty whose fivecharacter works portrayed the complexity of human emotion and the quest for understanding, was also a significant influence. A final pillar of the collection is references to female figures like Wang Xiaomei, a preservationist committed to preserving regional Chinese artistry, and Sanmao, a writer and traveler known for her groundbreaking independence. Such individuals act as symbolic inspirations for Hui’s designs because of their bravery and tenacity, which slices across historical and cultural divides. All of these muses were combined by the designer to create a sartorial tapestry that transcends time and space.
An International Language of Fabric and Colour
The collection's bold use of colour, with blue emerging as predominant, is among its most striking features. Blue is a colour that conjures up the vastness of the sky and the depth of the ocean. It converses with modern femininity and represents an endless journey characterized by growth, expansion, and wisdom. Rich indigo and lighter cerulean tones were particularly memorable in S/S 25.
They gave the collection both depth and a sense of serenity while highlighting the complexity of the contemporary woman. Regarding textiles, the runway was dominated by silk and cotton. These comfortable materials carried a metaphorical weight; cotton stands for ease and durability, while silk, with its silky, opulent texture, exudes a sense of effortless elegance. When combined, they produce clothing that is graceful, practical, and timeless.
The introduction of the Miao indigo dyeing technique, an age-old craft that Huizhou masterfully integrates into her designs, is arguably the collection’s most noteworthy feature. This traditional craft has long been practiced by the Miao people, an ethnic group renowned for their elaborate textiles. Its prominent role in this season’s looks demonstrates Hui’s dedication to preserving national heritage. Whether they featured butterflies, peony bouquets, or sea cliffs, the indigo patterns were eye-catching and gave the clothing depth and dimension while also lending it cultural significance. These motifs are more than ornamental: they are value-based and serve as potent representations of grace (peonies), feminine tenacity (butterflies), and strength (sea cliffs).
The collection's exploration of vast, unexplored territories, both literally and figuratively, was perfectly complemented by the S/S25 runway show's setting, a vivid blue space that echoed the expanse of the ocean. The clothes moved gracefully down the runway, each look containing textures and symbols that told a unique tale.
One of the collection's most striking looks was a sophisticated pale blue silk kimono-inspired piece with floral accents. With its delicate yet opulent fabric, the garment evoked images of both freedom and refinement as it billowed out in a manner that mimicked the gentle ebb and flow of the sea. The ensemble, paired with a straightforward yet striking swimsuit, created daring contrasts between femininity and strength, comfort and elegance.
The idea of strength within softness was emphasized by the red waistband that peeked through, creating a striking contrast to the otherwise calm blue palette. The collection's central theme of internal and external exploration was embodied by the traditional-meets- modern sensibilities of this ensemble.
Italian Tailoring Blends with Eastern Design
Hui’s S/S25 collection's silhouettes are a sophisticated fusion of the softness and fluidity of Eastern designs with structured, Italianinspired tailoring. A harmonious collision of elements results, with modern minimalism juxtaposed against rich cultural symbolism and strong, tailored lines set against the delicate flow of fabric. All seems symbolic of the complex challenges faced by women today, who feel pressure to balance the demands of contemporary life while clinging to the timeless traditions of their predecessors.
Through travel, self-discovery, and the reclaiming of tradition, Hui’s Le Grand Tour speaks to a generation of women who are taking charge of their own lives and aren't scared to explore new areas.
A declaration of contemporary femininity, this season represents an elegant step towards the co-existence of innovation and tradition. And as her designs continue to evolve, it is evident that Hui Zhou Zhao’s journey of empowerment and exploration is far from over.
ANTEPRIMA
RUNWAY
WORDS: DIANA HUK
PHOTOS: LEROY VELASQUEZ
The digital world has become an intrinsic part of modern life, influencing every aspect of our daily experiences including what we wear. Few brands have embraced this transformation as seamlessly as Anteprima. Under the creative direction of Izumi Ogino, Anteprima consistently merges technology with traditional elegance, producing collections that embody both contemporary innovation and timeless sophistication. The Spring/Summer 2025 collection, titled Anima, represents the next step in this journey, exploring the delicate balance between digital capabilities and human artistry.
Anima saw Ogino collaborate with Japanese artist Mika Tajima to investigate the coexistence of humanity and technology in fashion. This collection embraces transparency, movement, and soft layering, presenting a refined yet effortlessly wearable wardrobe for the modern woman. It is a direct evolution from Fall/Winter 2024, which showcased a bold, punkinspired aesthetic with structured silhouettes and metallic textures. In contrast, Anima shifts Anteprima towards fluidity and lightness, embracing delicate structure and femininity as key themes.
At the heart of Anima is texture play and layering techniques. The collection introduces sheer chiffons, silk gauze, and lightweight nylon, creating silhouettes that shift between opacity and transparency as the models move. Sheer materials, long an Anteprima trademark, add depth to dresses, blouses, and outerwear. Subtle layering effects evoke a sense of delicacy while maintaining structural integrity.
Unlike the previous collection’s bolder, more dark aesthetic, this season leaned into softness and effortless motion, showcasing pieces that feel as if they are in constant transformation.
The colour palette of Anima complements its theme of balance; soft pastels, luminous whites, and dreamy blues flirt with earthy neutrals that ground the collection in warmth. This harmonious blend of colours reinforces the idea of garments existing at the intersection of nature and technology, effectively melding the human touch with a futuristic influence.
Ogino’s signature layering was evident throughout Anima, whether through shirts elegantly draped over dresses or interwoven fabrics that seamlessly flowed together. Rather than following the natural curves of the body, Anteprima embraced loose, free-flowing silhouettes, creating an atmosphere of effortless sophistication. Despite their relaxed fit, the garments projected elegance, making them ideal for the contemporary city woman who transitions from a casual lunch with friends to an elegant evening dinner without missing a beat.
A particularly striking feature of the collection was the use of long cutouts along the décolletage, adding an element of sensuality without veering into provocation. This delicate balance of vulnerability and refinement reinforced Ogino’s ability to design for the confident, selfassured woman. Athletic influences also emerged in the collection, with Ogino developing his own distinctive sporty-chic aesthetic.
Jersey dresses were particularly memorable; traditionally bold and structured, they were reinterpreted with an unexpected softness.
A key motif throughout the collection was the Allium flower, symbolizing unity, humility, and patience. This floral element served as a subtle yet powerful representation of imperfect beauty and organic transformation, tying into the broader theme of the collection - fashion as a medium for expressing both strength and vulnerability. Further emphasizing the fusion of fashion and art, the iconic Wirebag, a notable accessory of the Anteprima brand, was reimagined through Mika Tajima’s artistic lens. The new interpretations of the Wirebag integrated Tajima techniques such as colour gradients and textural interplay with a beloved silhouette, again merging digital precision with human craftsmanship.
As Anteprima embraced digital elegance with its Spring-Summer 2025, it became evident that the brand does not merely follow trendsit pioneers new dialogues between fashion, art, and technology. Anima offered a vision of contemporary femininity that is both futuristic and deeply human. Through this nuanced collection, Ogino proved once again that Anteprima is a brand which evolves with the times while maintaining its commitment to sophistication and artistry. The digital and the organic, the structured and the free-flowing -Anima proposes a vision of contemporary fashion that is as innovative as it is timeless. Anteprima does not wait. It engages with and leads a brave new world.
RUNWAY
SARA WONG BLOSSOMS FOR SPRING/SUMMER 2025
WORDS: Diana Huk
PHOTOS: Leroy Velasquez
From a successful corporate leader to a prominent Milanese fashion designer, Sara Wong has established herself as a true Renaissance woman. With a creative vision deeply rooted in her Chinese heritage, she has masterfully fused Oriental traditions with avantgarde European style throughout her artistic journey. Her Spring/Summer 2025 collection, 'Way to Blossoms,' is a testament to this unique blend, proposing a romantic yet powerful aesthetic that embodies femininity, lightness, and confidence. The collection celebrates the beauty of long summer days, offering versatile looks designed for any occasion—whether it be an elegant midday lunch or an evening that effortlessly turns into a night of celebration.
Flowers play a significant role in Wong’s designs, used in diverse ways to symbolize different meanings and emotions. This season was no exception. Pastel tones dominated the colour palette, exuding an air of delicate sophistication. However, despite the predominance of soft hues, striking black ensembles also made an appearance, adding a bold contrast that speaks to the fearlessness of Wong’s muses. The collection featured a diverse yet cohesive array of pieces, including cropped jackets, mini skirts, floral pants, and fluid silk dresses.
Ruffles, sequins, corsets, and asymmetrical silhouettes created an intriguing interplay of textures and movement, further emphasizing the brand’s dreamy and romantic essence. Pearls were intricately woven into the designs, appearing in bags and jewelry and enhancing the ethereal quality of the garments. Finally, crystals shimmered under the light, while sheer fabrics and feathered details added an airy, almost celestial dimension to the looks. The result is a wardrobe that feels effortlessly luxurious, perfectly suited for those who embrace elegance with a touch of playfulness.
The attention to detail in this collection was truly remarkable. The fluidity of silk, the intricate craftsmanship of embroidery, and the thoughtful layering of textures created a poetic dialogue between fabric and movement. Every ruffle, feather, and shimmering sequin seemed to tell a story, embodying the essence of femininity with a sense of effortless grace.
A standout feature of Spring/Summer 25 was the Hulu shape. This symbolic form, representing longevity and prosperity, was seamlessly incorporated into accessory designs, forming the entire structure of one bag and appearing on many others. It added both flirtatious whimsy and metaphorical meaning to the collection, elevating the sense of storytelling that Sara Wong so beautifully crafts through her work.
Also notable in 'Way to Blossoms’ was the incorporation of men’s wear in pastel colours, a fresh take that challenges conventional boundaries.
Soft lavender, blush pink, and sky blue hues appeared in tailored jackets and structured trousers, seamlessly merging masculine lines with a delicate aesthetic. This interplay of traditionally feminine shades with men’s fashion underscores Wong’s ability to blur gender norms while maintaining a sense of classic elegance.
Sara Wong Throws Sunkissed Milanese Gadren Party
Set against the picturesque backdrop of a stunning Milanese courtyard, Sara Wong’s runway show felt like an intimate garden party where fashion and nature intertwined in perfect harmony. The collection lets us dream of sun-drenched afternoons by the beach, where style flows easily from day to night. A breezy, long silk dress danced beautifully under the golden rays of the sun but, when paired with dazzling accessories, transformed into an ethereal evening ensemble. The same philosophy extends to structured corsets and cropped jackets—pieces designed to complement various occasions with an effortless allure.
'Way to Blossoms' was more than just a fashion statement - it was an invitation to embrace a journey of selfexpression, to celebrate the beauty of transformation, and to revel in the lightness of being.
Weaving a powerful narrative of emotion and artistry, Sara Wong continued to redefine modern femininity with each delicate stitch and flowing silhouette. Wong’s vision reminds us that just like flowers, we all have our own special way to blossom.
F I O R U C C I
RUNWAY
WORDS:
JESSE SCOTT
PHOTOS:
LEROY VELASQUEZ
Francesca Murri Constructs Dreamscapes for Fiorucci’s First Runway Show
Founded by Elio Fiorucci in Milan in 1967, Fiorucci has enjoyed over five decades of international popularity, confidently weaving between American and European fashion and promoting a cultural sartorial exchange. Yet even with this rich history, Spring/Summer 2025 saw Fiorucci achieve a new first. On the expansive first floor of the Milano Triennale, Fiorucci kicked off the Milan Fashion Week calendar with its inaugural runway show.
The first major event of the season, it drew a number of celebrities, including Mara Lafontan, who dazzled in a sporty all-red fit. The entrance to the show space spelled high drama, as guests maneuvered their way to their seats through a msyterious smoke-filled room covered in light blue pillows. And Francesca Murri did not disappoint. Entitled “TI:ME,” the show saw Murri construct her own nuanced dreamscape, existing between the bounds of fantasy and reality; tangible and imaginary. Whimsical, ethereal, and deceptively complex, it paid tribute to the history of Fiorucci while launching a wholly new era for the brand.
The collection, with designs for both men and women, opened with a series of sleek white looks. Initially appearing minimalist due to their monochrome nature, they in fact were a study in subtle and discerning details. A white men’s button-down, paired with baggy pants, featured a pleated flap emblazoned with the Fiorucci name extending from one shoulder as a faux crossbody.
Shortly after, a shimmering semisheer white dress with a modest collar was given a touch of flair through iridescent silver sleeves peeking out from underneath. And a double-breasted blazer in periwinkle blue, its collar ingeniously presented “half-up, half down,” was provided a touch of surrealism by the cut-out white “frock” worn over the pants.
The looks got funkier as the collection continued. Under the auspices of the overarching “dream” theme, several looks drew inspiration from lingerie in silhouette and fabric choice. One of the more provocative and playful looks was a sheer white gown with lace embroidery (and white hearts concealing the nipples), worn over high-waisted jean shorts.
Meanwhile, gasps emerged from the audience when a model in jeans strutted down the runway wrapped in what appeared to be a white duvet (as if on the way from bed to the kitchen for a drink of water on a cold winter’s night). The look immediately recalled a number of iconic moments in recent fashion history.
Add a few hastily scrawled post-it notes and it would have fit in beautifully with Avavav’s “No Time to Design” collection of a year ago. It also could have been worn by an audience member in homage to Tommy Cash, who appeared at a F/W 23/24 Paris Fashion Week show elaborately dressed as a bed (“I’m sorry I’m late, I slept in,” he wrote in an accompanying TikTok).
But while Cash’s and Avavav’s moments were provocative statements, aimed to shock and start discussion, this look from Murri felt pure and playtul in an almost childlike manner. Barefoot, and with minimal make-up, the model appeared vulnerable and wholesome.
Murri toyed with modern streetwear throughout the collection in a way that was strikingly feminine and distinctly her own. This was, some would say, “street lite.” A graphic Fiorucci hoodie was paired with spandex and a flowing trench coatreminiscent cape. High-waisted denim pants were worn with a simple white top and long socks topped in girlish ballerina-like bows. Baggy khaki trousers with subtle angular pleats both echoed a major trend in recent men’s fashion and were made indisputably feminine by the lingeriestyle tank they were worn with. Finally, an all-denim seemingly workwear inspired look was given both South American flair and feminine energy when topped by a poncho with lace embroidery and long tassels.
Accessories tied the looks together. One of the most iconic pieces from the collection, and one that could rapidly become a Fiorucci signature once it hits stores, was a cushioned sandal with a massive pillowy strap in place of the typical narrow toe thong. The strap echoed both the construction at the entrance to the show space and even the guests’ seats - rather than the expected chairs or benches, we sat side by side on long pill-shaped pillows arcing along the runway. The bags carried by the models, many pill-shaped in perfect cylinders, fit in perfectly.
In this editor’s opinion, the two most show-stopping outfits could not have been more different. One model wore inverted jeans, men’s style back pockets located on the front and used as hand-warmers. In sharp contrast, the jeans were paired with a dramatic and elegant horsehair style top, seemingly made out of thousands of flowing long blonde locks. (this horsehair style also appeared on a semi-surrealist skirt).
Later on, in the edgiest look, a model swaggered down the runway in a dress that appeared to have been crafted out of a plastic bag. Emblazoned irreverently with “Fiorucci Cash and Carry” in large block letters, a nod to the brand’s iconic “cash and carry” slogan which has appeared on many graphic tees, it effectively took a simple concept and basic exercise in branding then made it subversive and non-commercial. Move over Balenciaga trash bag… Francesca Murri just made poubelle playful chic.
As an energetic Murri ran down the runway blowing kisses to an adoring audience, one couldn’t help but sense that the future of Fiorucci is very bright. With the inaugural runway show done, the sky is the limit. Bring on Fall/Winter 25/26!
H I L I P P P L E I N
RUNWAY
WORDS: Jesse Scott
PHOTOS: Leroy Velasquez
Philipp Plein and the hospitality industry are a natural fit. The larger-than-life German designer has long been known for his dramatic shows and ostentatious designs - September 2024 saw him brimg his signature swagger to the Milanese hotel and nightlife world in a way that will not soon be forgotten. The Plein Hotel, next to Giardini Montanelli on the excluisve Via Manin, marked its soft opening with its owner’s Spring/Summer 25 show. Nestled in the plush banquettes of the hotel’s glamourous club area, a VIP guest list watched as a series of bold men’s and women’s looks strutted the runway.
Plein continued the emphasis on tailoring that he has developed in recent season, with bejeweled blazers (all paired with oversized sunglasses) standing out across the collection. That said, it was the urban chic looks that were most impressive. Plein distilled the grunge glam refined by Britney Spears and Avril Lavigne in the early 2000's into distressed denim, cropped jackets, and flirtatious patterns all possessed of a devil-may-care attitude. Juxtaposed with dramatic dresses recalling the golden era of supermodels, they brought back an intoxicating nostalgia for a time when fashion more fully embraced fun. That’s doubtless precisely the feeling Plein wanted to invoke as he opened his hotel. With its multiple dining/nightlife spaces and even a rooftop “beach club,” this new playground for Milan’s young and beautiful pays tribute to the same hedonistic excess that has endeared Plein’s fashion brand to so many over the years. Whether it be by the sharp silhouettes, the glittering space,, or the show-closing Trey Songz performance: “Are you not entertained?”
SIMONETTA RAVIZZA’S
ENCHANTING AFRICAN ADVENTURE
WORDS: JESSE SCOTT
PHOTOS: LEROY VELASQUEZ
Simonetta Ravizza journeyed into Africa for a truly inspired Spring/Summer 2025 collection that continued the designer’s run of diverse and succinct offerings that convey a compelling emotional story. Mongolian winter, Manhattan midnights, and now safari chic…Ravizza has focused on particularly specific themes in recent seasons, and, like a chameleon, has immersed guests in each of them with an admirable aplomb.
Colour is Ravizza’s primary storytelling medium, whether it be the jet black of New York nightlife or the white of winter furs on the Central Asian steppe. This year she adopted an elegant yet earthy khaki, sand, and ivory palette that encapsulated both the rugged natural beauty of the African savannah and the iconic safari style romanticized across the globe for decades. Part of that romanticization originates from the movie
“Out of Africa,” an epic drama starring Meryl Streep and Robert Redford that introduced many viewers to Kenya’s awe-inspiring beauty when it was first released in 1985.
Fittingly, “Out of Africa” was a key reference point for Ravizza as she devised this collection. Practical yet refined, trousers, long skirts, and gracefully draped kimonos were made of cotton, muslin, linen, and suede. They seemed to have time traveled out of a luxury safari camp from decades ago - yet they also were timeless, possessed of a humble elegance that makes them staple wardrobe pieces. Meanwhile, “homestyle” embroidered detailing and discerningly chosen accessories such as thin scarves, leather belts in a rich brown, and oversized Masai-style bracelets, completed the aesthetic.
Each season seems to be a new international adventure for Ravizza, and one that is as smooth as first class on a long-haul flight from the golden age of aviation. We have only one question after this collection: where will she take us next?
SOUND OF SUN
WORDS: JESSE SCOTT
PHOTOS: LEROY VELASQUEZ
From the minimalist setting to the contemporary dance performances that sporadically took place throughout the presentation, Zona20 created a rare moment of zen and balance during a hectic Milan Fashion Week. The 100% Made in Italy brand, founded by sisters Cherie and Zoe Wang, is as much a philosophy and way of life as it is a fashion label. Built around the manifesto of “unisex, unique, and united,” with a major emphasis on community and sustainability, Zona20 promotes liberating yet responsible self-expression. Even the name itself was inspired by the brand’s socially and environmentally conscious values. “Zona20” holds a profound meaning for the founders, as it represents the 20 km./h speed limit enforced in certain European traffic zones to reduce vehicle emissions. All of this was explained to guests as the brand exploded onto the Milanese fashion scene with a beautifully curated FW debut.
Zona20’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, entitled “Sound of Sun,” was inspired by the base elements of the Earth. To quote the brand, guests were invited to “immerse yourself in the essence of nature, where the gentle lull of the sea, the soft whisper of sand, and the brilliance of the sun converge in perfect harmony.” With a neutral colour palette anchored in sandy beige, creamy yellow, and periwinkle blue, and a fabric range dominated by natural linen, cotton, silk, and wool, the collection intrinsically evoked a sense of calm, patience, and reflection. Yet its minimalist nature belied the meticulous tailoring and visionary innovation with form that defined the Wang sisters’ work. Each piece revealed subtle complexities if reviewed closely, a fact that itself encouraged a particularly intentional viewing of the collection and a collective exhale amidst what for many was a 10+-event day.
Asymmetry dominated. Among the highlights of the collection were a sandy shirt with buttons that traversed the garment diagonally, a blazer with a long strip of fabric dangling from the button hole in one lapel, and a breezy periwinkle shirt (perfect for days by the seaside or in the desert) that had only half of a collar. At a time when many brands favour dramatic cuts, Zona20 focused on details and used simple subversive changes to invert our expectations of garments and send a powerful message of harmony.
The press was told that the collection encouraged “a rediscovery of one’s essence.” It also inspired a moment of reflection about our own consumption of fashion and our social and ecological footprints. Elysium looks forward to seeing how the brand continues to grow, and feels assured that every sartorial step the Wang sisters take will be intentional, poised, and value-driven.
WORDS: JESSE SCOTT
PHOTOS: LEROY VELASQUEZ
MANTU: SUMMER EMPOWERMENT
Clean whites and bright colours were at the heart of Mantu’s Spring / Summer 2025 presentation. As we have become accustomed to, the brand transformed its show space into a holistic and fully immersive sartorial universe to launch its new collection. Guests were invited to don gracefully draped robes and sit in a clinically white space to watch a series of models proceed down a runway that seemed at once both retro and futuristic. Elegant anklelength silhouettes were proposed in vibrant shades of leaf green, brilliant blue, and resplendent orange, echoing the rhythm of an Italian summer. Paired with shades of midnight velvet and the occasional whimsical pattern, they encapsulated the light-hearted elegance that makes Mantu a perennial fixture in the contemporary Milanese closet.
Layering was particularly effective this season. Trench coats became bomber jackets, well-tailored “blazer dresses” were playfully worn over dress shirts, and widelegged pants mirrored long caftans.
An inspired vision of “Summer Empowerment,” this Mantu collection, grounded in versatile cotton canvas and romantic linen, has the perfect array of day-tonight looks for the coming season. Proposing an assertive femininity through clean silhouettes and sharp cuts, it stays true to the brand’s DNA while offering a refreshing aesthetic unique on the Milanese runways this season.
ELEVENTY: EFFORTLESS ELEGANCE FOR THE MODERN WOMAN
WORDS: JESSE SCOTT
PHOTOS: LEROY VELASQUEZ
Timeless Italian elegance was on display again this season at the Eleventy presentation, as the iconic brand launched a series of elevated and versatile essentials. A refined colour palette dominated, as tan, white, soft blush, and ivory were omnipresent amidst a series of structured businessready blazers and flowing summer sundresses alike. Masterful layering was on full display, as subtle differences between materials emphasized complementary neutral colours.
. Meanwhile, the accessories starred. Soft-toned baseball caps added a “quiet luxury cool” to any ensemble while a series of Riviera-ready sandals brought a surprising touch of glam to the boho chic aesthetic. For example, blue sandals had a series of bedazzled nautical-inspired cords on the upper while a square-toed slate grey pair saw Eleventy move in an exciting new direction by incorporating an oversized golden buckle detail and dozens of small studs. A dreamy pair of finely woven blush loafers, accentuated by an embroidered buckle, channeled an aesthetic beloved by Italian heritage brands and should be an essential for next summer.
When it comes to refined simplicity, Eleventy still reigns supreme. Subtly incorporating aspects of prep, boho, and urban chic into an understated and reserved aesthetic, the Spring.Summer 2025 collection offers a complete wardrobe for the contemporary woman.
RAISA VANESSA: “AVIVA AND GRACIOUS”
WORDS: JESSE SCOTT PHOTOS: LEROY VELASQUEZ
After a Spring/Summer 25 collection defined by dark glamour, Raisa Vanessa embraced a more light and playful aesthetic for the new season. Bright colours took center stage and deadly leather and gold accessories were replaced with an airy feminine sensibility. Entitled “Aviva and Gracious,” the collection marks a new beginning for Raisa and Vanessa, the Turkish sisters at the helm of the brand. A tribute to their grandparents, who recently passed, and to all those who support the house, the expansive selection of looks celebrates love and gratitude in sumptuous velvet and delicate silk chiffon. As always, the designs are produced in Istanbul, Turkey and feature the exquisite embroidery that is a Raisa Vanessa signature.
APERITIVO IN STYLE WITH CURIEL
Iconic Milanese brand Curiel both reflected on its rich heritage and considered nature through a forward-thinking lens this season. The “Nature’s Tribute” Ready-to-Wear collection, which emphasized such romantic colours as cherry blossom pink, goose yellow, and aqua blue, used natural fabrics to re-connect wearers with their environments while promoting sustainable practices. Meanwhile, the Atelier collection proposed a series of stunning “aperitivo” dresses made from delicate silk chiffon, silk velvet, and organza. Timeless and minimalist in form, yet dramatic in effect (partially due to the way their materials refract the soft sunset light) they are a romantic tribute to the golden days of summer.
SANTONI RIVIERA
WORDS & PHOTOS: JESSE SCOTT
Santoni transformed Milan’s Galleria Meravigli into an Adriatic dream to present its Spring/Summer 25 collection. Evoking its home region of Marche, which sits nestled between the mountains and the sea, the historic brand re-imagined an Italian riviera through a vibrant colour palette and sleek new design vocabulary. This season saw the introduction of the Serpentine, a new family of shoes which emphasizes undulating wave-like forms in satin and crystals that, in the words of the brand, “mirror the night sky” and “the reflection of twilight in sand and seas.”
Equally memorable was the Onda line, which sparkled in mirror leather emblematic of the salt spray emanating from the azure Adriatic waves.
For those that prefer sportier silhouettes, the DBS Oly sneaker continues to be a resounding success. This season saw the sneaker proposed in both sleek metallic and supple nappa finishings, with all forms containing the signature Double Buckle detail. Finally, a personal highlight of the collection was a new and significantly larger version of the Pluto bag. Titled the “Pluto soft,” this elegant bag is the perfect summer “carry-all” and is notable for its subtle “raw stitching” finishes.
LE SILLA CELEBRATES 30TH ANNIVERSARY WITH SURREALISM AND STYLE
WORDS & PHOTOS: JESSE SCOTT
In a saturated Milanese shoe market, a 30th anniversary is truly an accomplishment to be celebrated. Le Silla marked the occasion in spectacular fashion for Spring/Summer 2025, reflecting on the passage of time with a dazzling surrealist pump entitled the Anthea. A new iteration of the iconic Petalo, the Anthea has a sculpted metallic back that flows into the heel like one of Dali’s melting clocks. The form was mesmerizing, and wholly unprecedented within the fashion universe: quite simply, the Anthea is the best shoe of Spring/Summer 2025. We favoured the golden version, but, as part of a collection entitled Les Nuances, it comes in a variety of hues specifically designed to match every skin tone.
While the Anthea stole the show, it was just one of many must-have shoes across a particularly stellar and cohesive collection. There were two main sources of inspiration for Le Silla this season: safari chic and transparency. “Safari” can be interpreted in many ways, and Le Silla chose glamour, proposing a stilettos in both leopard satin and a striking python print. For those who prefer something more restrained, there was also a series of raffia mules that embraced an elegant interpretation of boho chic. Meanwhile, mesh ruled the day in the transparency segment of the collection. We were particularly in love with the Colette boots, proposed in a luxurious chocolate brown.
Le Silla has poised itself at the very pinnacle of the Milan fashion industry as it enters its next 30 years. Eternally a highlight on the fashion week calendar, both for its timeless glamour and relentless innovation, it continues to surprise and delight with the same creativity and sleek savoir faire that defined so many of Dali’s works.
CASADEI EMBRACES MODERN
SILHOUETTES FOR THE YOUNG,
BOHO,
& BEAUTIFUL
WORDS: JESSE SCOTT PHOTOS: LEROY VELASQUEZ
Casadei entered a new era in Spring/Summer 2025, offering one of the most surprising and innovative collections of the season. Cesare Casadei has never been afraid of experimentation or pioneering new trends but this season he proposed even more groundbreaking silhouettes than usual. The Zeppa blade, a leather slipper, immediately caught our attention; inverting expectations of shoe construction to feature a shimmering insole of handhammered metal. The oversized pearl details on a series of pumps also stood out; undeniably glamourous, and presented against a sleek black and white colour palette, they seemed to have emerged directly from a classic Audrey Hepburn movie (Holly Golightly, anyone?) Finally, we fell in love with Cesare’s new faux crocodile look; colour was dabbed on supple calfskin by hand to create a chiaroscuro effect that effectively mimicked scales reflected through water.
Casadei proposed a full-range bridal collection this season. Focused on the philosophy that a bride should be able to wear a pair of Casadeis from walking down the aisle to strolling on the sand during her honeymoon, the collection offered seductive sandals that also featured the newly iconic pearl detail. Equally appropriate for a honeymoon were the delicate bejwelled ballet flats of mesh raffia.
The brand’s love affair with Ibiza also continued. The eco-friendly Salinas capsule expanded and solidified, with recycled crocheted yarn being used on a series of carefree totes, sandals, and bucket hats available in joyful tones such as pastel pink and vivid orange. It was a capsule uniquely of the current flashpoint, and even as Cesare continues to innovate each season, we expect him to progressively pursue this aesthetic further.
PARIS TEXAS BRINGS SOPHISTICATED SWAGGER TO MILAN
WORDS & PHOTOS: JESSE SCOTT
Paris Texas (a playful nod to the Texas town that bears no resemblance to its famous French namesake) seems at first glance to be an utterly oxymoronic phrase. It most definitely is not a name that leaps to mind when one considers luxurious Italian footwear. Yet that may be changing. Founded in 2015 by the visionary Annamaria Brivio, the bold brand is weaving a glamorous transatlantic story that blends Western swagger with Parisian elegance.
Audacious and on the rise, Paris Texas has rapidly made itself a name among Europe’s most demanding high fashion clientele - not an easy feat when competing from the highly saturated shoe market of Milan. This success was properly celebrated at the Spring/Summer 2025 presentation, which took place in the brand’s gorgeous new Milanese showroom (seen by many guests for the first time) and starred photos from the dramatic F/W 24 promotional campaign (which saw models strike dramatic poses against the rugged landscapes of the American west).
Of course, the shoes took centre stage. A tribute to ferocious femininity, with a certain Western flare, they effortlessly ranged between cowboy boots and raffia sandals with a choesive “It girl” attitude. Immediately catching my eye were the towering Jessie terracotta brown boots, which featured four layers of fringes each comprised of hundreds of spiralling leather strands.
Combining a cowgirl colour palette with feminine complexity and the type of high drama often reserved for apres-ski boots at resorts such as Courchevel and Saint Moritz, they offer a bold summer statement for adventurous trailblazers.
Also memorable were the intricate yet edgy Ella lace-up sandals, standing tall in a sultry rouge noir, and the studded Lavinia cowboy boots in a unique milk white leather.
There was an ingenious nod to ballet ribbons, although these were not made of an innocent lace but instead bold leather straps possessed of a certain sexuality more at home in the bedroom than onstage. For something more delicate, yet still femme fatale, there was the Lidia mule with a thin stiletto heel and a fur and feather detail that exuded a distinct roaring twenties vibe.
Paris Texas has never been one to back away from dramatic shapes or colours. This season saw the introduction of the “colour-shifting” Nina wedges, which featured a surrealist-style concave heel shimmering kaleidoscopically in the colours of the American west. Meanwhile, the Ava mule was proposed with a block plexiglass heel notable for its “now you see me, now you don’t” attitude and a hidden engraved logo
A spectacle of Texan swagger and pure Tuscan craftsmanship (all the shoes are produced in the globe’s leather capital), this collection possessed the Milanese glamour of brands like Le Silla and circa 2021 Giseuppe Zanotti - with a bold and innovative twist. Brivio deftly manages to combine some of the hottest footwear trends of the moment with a timeless sensibility that makes the shoes both iconic and versatile, It’s official: Paris Texas is a perennial highlight on the Milan Fashion Week calendar.
AGL’S “MYTH OF A WOMAN”
WORDS & PHOTOS: JESSE SCOTT
AGL embraced a playful brand of contemporary femininity for Spring/Summer 2025, proposing a series of delicate and finely crafted designs inspired by nature and mythology. Soft pastels and neutral tones dominated the collection, while pops of metallic midnight blue and silver added a touch of glamour and structured sandals provided urban sensibility. Both nymphs and water lilies were central themes, giving the collection an captivating sense of romance whether through hand-sewn crystals, three-dimensional flora patterns, or transparent organza.
“By women, for women,” AGL continues its reign as one of Milan’s leading footwear brands, bringing a nuanced blend of elegant femininity, avant-garde innovation, and intellectually engaging inspirations to its designs each season. Merging comfort with joyful self-expression, the Spring/Summer 25 collection has several must-have pieces for the coming months.
FRATELLI ROSSETTI
“Shades of earth, shades of summer” was the theme for Fratelli Rossetti’s elegant S/S 25 collection. Almond tan, dusty pink, olive must, mango, and pale periwinkle anchored a discerning and understated colour palette that celebrated the tones of our natural world. As usual, all eyes were on the Brera loafer, and this season saw the 70+ year-old house propose it in two exciting new designs. Rossetti embraced the synthesis of traditional craftsmanship and avant-garde innovation through the introduction of the “tech weave,” which creates a three-dimensional effect through leather strips woven in a zigzag pattern. Meanwhile, “lettuce leaf edging” Breras invoked a semi-surrealist serpentine motion via their construction of finely woven threads.
MARIO VALENTINO
Spring/Summer 2025 was a huge season for Mario Valentino, as the historic Italian brand, now 72 years old, added bags to its portfolio of exquisitely crafted leather luxuries. Proposed in brilliant shades of lime green, daisy yellow, and flushing fuschia, the versatile array of bags is perfect for summers in Portofino, Sicily, or Capri. Meanwhile, shoe offerings spoke to the romance of a seaside summer through golden shell embellishments, glistening metallic leather, and elegant pastel shades.
