Rodo

TThe first photos I saw of the Rodo factory in Mogliano took my breath away. The picturesque village is nestled in the hills of the Marche reason, just southwest of Ancona.

It's 25 kilometers from the sea and 27 kilometers form the mountains; you quite literally can ski and go to the beach on the same day. Add in the rolling olive-tree lined hills between those two landscapes and you have the best of Italy in a microregion.

With this for daily inspiration it’s no surprise that Rodo has always focused on nature. The story began in 1956 when Romualdo Dori, current CEO Gianni Dori’s father, turned utilitarian to fashionable through interpreting traditional wicker and straw bags for a cosmopolitan Florentine crowd. The brand soon expanded into bejeweled evening wear collections and has long maintained this dual nature. And, while updating styles according to modern trends and techniques, it has also maintained the passion, tradition, and utter refusal to compromise on quality that are central to Rodo's identity.

Everything at Rodo is hand-crafted; there are no shortcuts. Just as the design responsibilities have been passed from Romualdo to Gianni to Gianni’s son and niece, responsibilities for physically constructing the shoes have passed from generation to generation. The brand has hired 20-30 young new craftspeople in the past few years; they will undergo a several-season “apprenticeship” process under the current masters to ensure they understand the “Rodo way” and keep long-lasting traditions alive. Gianni told me: “there are very, very few brands, even in Italy, that are still doing things they way we are. ” Rodo is a family affair; a labor of love; the culture is for workers to stay with the brand for a long time and exhibit the same care and attention to detail that exemplified Italian design long before “mass marketing and fast fashion. ”

Tradition and modern activism are not mutually exclusive. Rodo’s Fall.Winter 2022 collection conversed with climate change and the melting polar regions; the evening wear portion was inspired by snow and ice and presented in an exquisite “ winter fairy tale” setting. Gold shoes and bags were adorned with glacial blue jewels and clasps. The white gem-encrusted Alissa heel, made of lambskin mesh, looked exactly like snow glistening in the sunlight

Meanwhile, the Dafne and Sveva models, in a vivid blue, recalled the iconic Thierry Mugler photos of a model in a similarly-colored dress reclining upon an ice floe.

Jena Goldsack, the face of this collection, looked dazzling at the presentation in a delicate white dress and a shimmering mini bag worn casually as a necklace. However, she was there as far more than just a model. A passionate environmental activist, Goldsack was the perfect representative and partner for the message Rodo was attempting to convey this season. Goldsack has channeled much of her energy into raising awareness about the melting polar regions and helping to protect the animals that call them home. A Sea Life Trust ambassador since 2019, Goldsack was involved in the foundation of the world’s first beluga whale sanctuary located in Klettsvick Bay in Iceland. The sanctuary rescues whales that have been in captivity and reintegrates them into the wild in a controlled environment that mirrors their natural habitat. It has space for ten whales in its 32,000 square meter space, the first two of which, Little White and Little Grey, were saved from a Shanghai water park three years ago. Also involved in puffin rescue, and connected to the Cornish Seal Sanctuary, which rehabilitates 65 seals every year, the Sea Life Trust occupies a leadership position within the conservation space and, partially thanks to the international exposure Goldsack provided it, is poised for rapid expansion. It’s a similar leadership position to what Rodo could claim in the Italian fashion industry; for this respected brand to engage with sustainability and provide a platform for wildlife conservation speaks volumes.

The day wear section of this season’s presentation, while obviously more reserved, was just as impressive as the sparkling winter wonderland. A rich autumnal burgundy starred on the versatile Coco Block loafer, the forceful Nia boot, and the casually chic Agatha bag. Tan also stood out on a number of bags and some understated suede kneehighs.

Back at the Rodo factory, in this medieval-style oasis between the mountains and sea, the rhythm of life goes on. This is a brand with a deep connection to place and emphasis on family. It’s also a brand that has taken on an active role in promoting the preservation of said places for future generations. And that’s a story as compelling as any fairytale.

CEO Gianni Dori