A bicycle guide to South Sweden Trails by tourisminskane

s o u t hs we d e nt r a i l s . c om

A BICYCLE GUIDE TO

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS

KORNELIA THÖRN ROBIN LYNE

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Biking through forests, coasts and cities

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Biking through forests, coasts and cities Bike through magic forests, past sandy beaches and along windswept coastal landscapes. As the late summer turns into autumn, we discover the Sydostleden, Sydkustleden and Kattegattleden national cycling trails which together form the 900 kilometre long South Sweden Trails. Cycling is life to us. For the past ten years we have been adventure and longdistance cycling around the world. We have climbed up icy mountain ranges in Asia, crossed hot deserts in Africa and peddled thousands of kilometres through Europe. And if there is one thing we have learned, it is to appreciate the features along the route. What distinguishes the South Sweden Trails is the variety. The mushroom forests in the northeast give a feeling of wilderness, while everything you need is next to the beaches and the cities in the south. Everything from whitewashed vineyards and colourful Pippi Longstocking cafes, to cold bath houses with spas and some of Sweden’s finest nature reserves are hidden along the trails. Just like South Sweden Trails, this guide is divided into three different parts. The order you choose to read and bike is up to you, but we describe the journey as we made it - starting on the Sydostleden bicycle trail in a rainy, cloudy Växjö. Kornelia Thörn & Robin Lyne @a_remarkable_ride

Täppet Beach outside Åhus

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Biking through forests, coasts and cities

CONTENT 1

A bou t th e rou te 2

B e fore th e tr ip 3

S ydostle de n 4

S ydku stle de n 5

K atte ga ttle de n

Text Kornelia Thörn Photography Kornelia Thörn & Robin Lyne Translated by Paul Steele

ABOUT THE ROUTE Shared joy. On #SouthSwedenTrails, #Sydostleden, #Sydkustleden and #Kattegattleden you can find inspiration and share your journey.

INFORMATION LEVEL

Easy-cycling trails with a few metres of altitude difference. Most steep ascents are on the Sydostleden trail near Brösarp and on the Kattegattleden near Hallandsåsen. The cycle trail is suitable for beginners.

DISTANCE

About 900 km

SURFACE

Mainly asphalt. The parts that run on old railway embankments are close to nature and more often gravelled. Most of the time you cycle along cycle paths, both separate cycle paths or beside major roads. Some parts are on the main roads.

PLACES FOR A PAUSE

There are picnic tables along many of the sights of interest next to the trails. Keep an eye out for bathing places - there are often toilets, barbecue facilities and benches.

: 274 km on the Sydostleden : 260 km on the Sydkustleden : 390 km on the Kattegattleden

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS About the route

The three trails are divided into predefined stages with tips on places to eat, sights and accommodation.The Sydostleden has seven, the Sydkustleden six and the Kattegattleden is divided into eight parts. Our travel story is not based on the stages, but you can read more about these at Southswedentrails.com. Along the Sydkustleden you are always close to shops and accommodation and the same applies to large parts of the Kattegatleden. On the northern part of the Sydostleden you pass less densely populated areas. The charm is being close to nature, but it can be good to plan food stops and overnight stays a little more carefully here.

All trails have red signs with white text

Streets of Sölvesborg

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS About the route

Food, accommodation and bicycle service You’ll find hotels and bed and breakfasts along the entire South Sweden Trails - in towns and in the countryside. There are also plenty of campsites. There are restaurants and cafés in all towns, close to attractions and often together with many accommodation options. Grocery stores are found in most places but keep an eye on opening hours in small towns and outside high season. There are cosy farm shops selling locally grown food and local delicacies along the route. Tap water is safe to drink and most cafes, restaurants and petrol stations can help you fill your water bottles if you ask nicely. Asking the way or asking for water is a good opportunity to talk to strangers. Bicycle repair shops are available in most towns. Sometimes you pass bicycle pumps along the trails.

Some accommodation and restaurants lend bicycle tools - including Joels Brygga on the Kattegattleden

There are many hiking opportunities along the route.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS About the route

Transport No one likes to transport their bike, and fortunately there are local tour operators (such as RentBike and Travelshop) who can help you with transport and renting bikes and bags. If you want to travel by public transport you can take a bicycle on regional trains, such as Pågatågen, Öresundstågen and Krösatågen. The bike is stowed in a special carriage if space allows, so factor in that you may need to take a later departure. This is especially true during rush hour and the high season. Many buses have bike carriers, but it’s on a first come, first served basis. Travelling across the sea? On page 58, we offer suggestions about ferry crossings to Europe.

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During the trip we tried transporting our bikes with RentBike, Travelshop and on the train. We rode around 20 kilometres or more with Johan Sundh from RentBike.

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Discover Glumslöv’s slopes on the many gravel roads that lead through the area of the Sydkustleden trail.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS About the route

Right of public access (allemansrätt) Do you love nature? Sweden’s unique Right of Public Access gives you the opportunity to cycle on private roads and stroll freely in forests and fields. But with rights comes responsibility - so always show consideration for nature, animals and other people. Take care when passing through and leave nothing but footprints and wheel tracks. The Right of Public Access is often limited in nature reserves and national parks, and it may be forbidden to cycle, camp or start a fire there. Read about what applies on information boards for the area, at the municipality or at lansstyrelsen.se.

BEFORE THE TRIP

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Before the trip

Biking

You don’t need a special bike along the South Sweden Trails. The most important thing is that you sit comfortably and that it is serviced. Most tyres work as the paths are mainly asphalt, but it can be good to have thicker tyres to avoid punctures on gravel sections.

Packing

If you want to attach panniers to your bike you’ll need a carrier and/or bag holder. There are larger panniers that you hang on the bike’s luggage carrier and smaller bike bags that you attach to the frame. Whatever you choose, it’s important to pack light.

Bicycle tools

Carry a pump, repair kit and some duct tape.

Clothes

The Swedish saying “there’s no bad weather, only bad clothing” is a good starting point. As the coastal trails can be windy it’s nice to have shell layers that protect you. A waterproof jacket is good too. It’s also smart to pack sunglasses, gloves and a hat. Don’t forget your bike helmet.

TIP! If you don’t have the right equipment, or if are you going to cycle a shorter distance, why not rent a bike and bags?

Travel first aid kit

Bring painkillers, sunscreen, plasters and hand sanitizer. If you need emergency help along the route, call 112.

Other equipment

If you want to camp and cook your own food you need to bring a tent, sleeping equipment and a Outdoor stove. We always take a thermos with us. You can normally get a coffee or hot water refilled at hotels and hostels. Buy a couple of cinnamon buns from a bakery and you’re ready for a spontaneous coffee stop anywhere along the route.

Bicycle season

You can cycle the South Sweden Trails all year round, but it is kept in order with service between April 15 and October 15. We would like to highlight the mid-season. In addition to the obvious benefit of fewer tourists, a lot happens in nature. In the spring, apple and cherry trees blossom, and later in the early summer, the canola fields in Skåne and Halland are tinted yellow like the sun. When schools and workers return in mid-August the beaches are fairly empty while the water is still fairly warm. If you wait a few more weeks, the first autumn winds start to sweep in over the sea. As long as you have rainproof clothes there’s nothing to stop you from discovering the coastal landscapes and the yellow-red mushroom forests for another couple of months.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Before the trip

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We often pick ramsons in the southern deciduous forests in the spring. The onion is similar to the poisonous lily of the valley - but smells strongly of garlic so it’s difficult to go wrong.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Before the trip

Sunflowers along Sydostleden.

SYDOSTLEDEN

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

SYDOSTLEDEN NR. 2

VÄXJÖ – SIMRISHAMN DISTANCE

274 km

STAGES

LINKS

Sydostleden-sydkustleden.se/en

Skanetrafiken.se

Lanstrafikenkron.se

It quickly strikes us how the landscape changes along Sydostleden. At 274 kilometres, the trail winds its way past deep forests and hidden lakes in Småland and Blekinge, down to Skåne’s sandy beaches and rolling fields. The northern part is a perfect place to discover nature you more often see in the northern part of the country. Here the trail follows an old railway embankment with red houses with white knots, Åsnen National Park and industrial history. The trail continues through Blekinge where it passes Kungsforsen filled with shimmering salmon and roaring water. Further south, the landscape opens up. Around Kristianstad the Vattenriket biosphere reserve offers hazy cycle mornings, while Österlen’s apple orchards and steep coast resemble southern Europe. It’s not so strange that many of our favourite parts of the South Sweden Trails can be found right here.

07.30 the alarm rings. Behind the curtains, the city wakes up. Late August rain hits the window and down the street you see umbrellas getting striped with rain. In the lift to the breakfast buffet we talk about how to plan the day: a quiet breakfast, a bike ride through the city, Teleborgs Castle and then the forests. We imagine the smell of moss and the light between the trees. The first day of a bike ride always starts like this - full of expectations and hopes.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

In the autumn Did you know that good mushroom spots are sacred in Sweden? It can take years before a Swede tells a new neighbour where the best mushroom spots are. But cyclists get priority. Your bike saddle is your front row seat. Just look into the edge of the forest. There are plenty of chanterelles and Karl Johan mushrooms on the northern part of Sydostleden.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

From Växjö As soon as the rain has passed we pack our bikes and check out from PM & Friends. After discovering Växjö’s city centre we ride on towards the Hogwarts-like Teleborg Castle. The castle has been filmed for the Swedish TV series “The stars in the castle” and offers guided tours, a hotel and a restaurant. The castle is also surrounded by a beautiful park. There are pleasant places for a break on the long cycle path that leads out of the town past Växjösjön and the Växjö Art Site Spegelbollen sculpture. The settlement fades from view and the Ekotemplet water tower appears. From the bike path it looks like a misplaced piece of concrete, but the magic lies in the echo. The acoustics turn the slightest sound into an eternal echo, and what should be a quick lunch turns into a long sound experiment.

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A swarm of bees passes us on the roof terrace at PM & Vänner. There is urban beekeeping on the rooftops.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

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Spegelbollen reflects nature and spins with the force of the wind and the water.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

Out in the wild Sydostleden continues on gravel roads and cycle paths to Urshult. A couple of kilometres from the town we stop for the night at a glamping tent. The tent is on the edge of the family-run Urshult camping next to Lake Åsnen. Just outside the tent is a fishing jetty hidden in a misty haze the next morning. The whole area is perfect for activities such as fishing, swimming and canoeing. From the campsite it’s just a 10 km round trip to Lunnabacken’s utkiksplats and hembygdspark, where we make a detour. Åsnen’s island landscape forms a beautiful view behind oak trees and apple orchards. The cottages with felted grass roofs are surrounded by hiking trails and picnic tables. Back in Urshult we continue on Sydostleden through birch and pine forests. Here and there we see someone step out from the trees with a well-filled mushroom basket. It’s probably not so strange that we are hungry when we reach Mörrumsån and Blidingsholms stenbro (stone bridge). We sit down to cook lunch at a picnic table next to the water and eat the farm vegetables we bought during the day. While we eat we look at the bridge, which is one of Småland’s longest and most beautiful, built sometime in the early 1900s. Its predecessor in wood was built as early as the 16th century.

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Several local growers sell their crops along the route during the late summer and autumn.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

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Yellow zucchini, tomatoes and parsley from a nearby farm shop.

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Before we cycle to Åsnen National Park we feed the chickens and the peacock with Anthony.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

Småland’s blue treasure Toftahult B&B is in a forest glade a few kilometres from Sydostleden. We park the bikes for the day, have dinner at the nearby Ålshult store then head out on a canoe trip in the last evening light. From here you can paddle all the way to the Värendsleden canoe trail then continue to Åsnen National Park and further north. We don’t have time to go that far and decide to see the park from our bike saddles the next day. The Banvallsleden and Åsnen cycle paths wind their way towards Åsnen National Park. The large lake is sometimes called Småland’s blue treasure, which is easy to understand; it lies like a blanket over the forest landscape with its islands and fjordlike mouths. As we cycle up to the national park and the family friendly Trollberget hiking area, the water sparkles behind the tree trunks. On our detour to Trollberget we cycle on the Banvallsleden and around Åsnen. The Sverigeleden, Kronobergstrampen and Fjordrundan trails are in the area. If you want to put together a loop with South Sweden Trails, the 250 km long Banvallsleden is a link between Karlshamn in the east (Sydostleden) and Halmstad in the west (Kattegattleden).

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Anthony Wagner runs Toftahult B&B together with his husband Christian Vepsä. A rainbow flag flies in front of the house as a reminder that everyone is welcome here.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

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There are cycle paths and hiking trails in Sweden’s youngest national park.

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Mormors Bakeri offers a vegetarian buffet and a counter filled with homemade pastries.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

Blekinge and Mormors Bakery Shortly after Fridafors we reach Blekinge. Much of the stretch goes along an old embankment that follows the river Mörrum. Along the route there’s the preserved Ebbamåla mill and the historic industrial town of Svängsta, where Abu Garcia still makes fishing reels. There’s a museum here too. Around 10 km before Karlshamn, we turn off the trail towards Mormors Bakeri (Grandma’s Bakery). We rest in odd chairs in the cramped villa outside Asarum. There’s a courtyard filled with chairs and tables in the back garden. If Pippi Longstocking had opened a café, it would probably have looked something like this. There are apple trees here and there and the ground is dotted with fruits. In the middle of it all is a stage, a home-made outdoor bar, an art studio and a few small rooms rented out for overnight stays.

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In Karlshamn there’s a beautiful cultural quarter and the award-winning Karlshamns Kallbadhus. The Blekinge archipelago is just a stone’s throw away. Most of the boats that cross the area bring bicycles where space allows.

There’s something to eat or see everywhere, which makes it a great place for a longer stay. But in the end, after lasagne, cake tasting and colourful fruit drinks, we get on our bikes and continue towards Karlshamn.

Streets of Karlshamn.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

Mörrum river.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

Kungsforsen - a tiny Alaska We hear thunder on the route between Karlshamn and Sölvesborg. The Mörrum River reappears and turns into the mighty Kungsforsen. The water is known for its large salmon and anglers come from all over the world every year to try their luck. The area is worth a visit just for the nature. Next to the water there are cycle paths and the 30 km long Laxaleden hiking trail follows the river valley. We visit Laxens hus (House of Salmon) museum and restaurant Kronolaxen, before we continue towards Sölvesborg. There are lots of sights along the route, even if the trail is mostly a bike path next to a major road. There are bathing spots at Pukavik and in the village of Norje is the Gummagården farm shop and the Norje Boke campsite in a beautiful, natural spot. We reach Sölvesborg towards the afternoon via one of Europe’s longest bicycle bridges. The 760-metre-long Sölvesborgbron winds its way through the Sölvesborgsviken nature reserve, surrounded by reed-clad islets. Daylight is best for watching bird life, but the bridge is most beautiful in the evening when it shimmers in neon.

TIP! Download the ARK56 nature app when you visit Blekinge.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

Norje Boke Camp site.

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Before we head towards Kristianstad, we buy baguettes and croissants at the Ritz bakery.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

Sölvesborg bridge.

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You can extend the short biking distance through Blekinge with a 40 km long bike ride through Listerlandet using the trail with the same name.

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When the trail passes Friseboda nature reserve, we cycle next to the sea. The reserve consists of magical pine forests, dune landscapes and crystal clear, icy water.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

Northeast Skåne Kristianstad has plenty of hotels, restaurants and attractions. Just a stone’s throw from the centre is Naturum, the visitor centre for Kristianstad’s vattenrike. The large biosphere reserve contains beach meadows, wetlands and lots of watercourses. The area has many hiking and biking trails and you pass several options just by following Sydostleden. A few kilometres from the centre we stop at the wooded Ekenabben, headlande where we sit among the old oaks for coffee. As with many of the stops in the area, there are picnic tables, hiking trails and bird towers. Sydostleden continues along a cycle path that runs parallel to the railway. Open fields surround the landscape, replaced by pine forest towards Åhus. The town is a popular tourist destination and there’s everything around the centre from Ottos glassfabrik (Otto’s Ice cream factory) and Absolute Home – to picturesque harbours and Täppet beach. But for us, the tour continues a few more kilometres through the forest towards the family owned Kastanjelunds Wärdshus.

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At Naturum you can get tips on cycling and hiking tours in the area. Naturum Vattenriket, Kristianstad.

Streets of Åhus.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

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Blekinge meets Skåne. At Ekenabben we lay the table with coffee and bread from the Ritz in Sölvesborg and enjoy cucumber from the Gummagården farm shop.

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We follow Isabel into the kitchen at Tastecelebration.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

Österlen The northern part of Österlen starts close to the Brösarps backar nature reserve. The area is one of Skåne’s most popular and car parks and restaurants are filled with holidaying summer guests during the high season. Spring and autumn are equally suitable for biking, not least because of the temperature. When we climb up one of Sydostleden´s steepest slopes towards the village Andrarum, we are pleased the summer heat is over. Once up, we stop by Isabel Brummer at Tastecelebration Residence. Looking over the hills, we enjoy rice noodles, arranchino and salted lemons, while talking to Isabel and her husband Joost ter Waarbeek about their business. There’s also a farm hotel, and the couple offer creative courses in vegan cooking and food photography.

The surroundings are close to nature. Just a stone’s throw away is Hallamölla, Skåne’s highest waterfall which you reach on foot via Backaleden and by bike along a narrow gravel road. After eating, we take a detour to the falls before continuing along Sydostleden. While the sun sets, we roll down through apple orchards and sunflower fields, all the way to Kivik and the sea. From here, Sydostleden continues to Simrishamn - where Sydkustleden and new adventures begin.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydostleden

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Kornelia grew up on Österlen and thinks the area is at its best during the low season. Then you have popular spots, like Hallamölla waterfall, all to yourself.

SYDKUSTLEDEN

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydkustleden

THE SYDKUSTLEDEN ROUTE

SIMRISHAMN - HELSINGBORG DISTANCE

260 km

STAGES

ETOOLS

Sydostleden-sydkustleden.se/en

Skanetrafiken.se

Holiday blue and quiet, scruffy and furious, or somewhere in between. As the name suggests, this stretch is defined by the coast. Sydkustleden runs close to the sea in its entire route from Simrishamn to Helsingborg. Along the route there is everything from sandy beaches, spas and seafood restaurants to fishing villages and rugged pebble strips. And big cities like Malmö and Helsingborg, with a hazy Denmark lying in the horizon. Despite everything being close at hand, we are often struck by how quiet it is along the coast. Maybe it’s thanks to the low season, or it’s because we cycle. We are not tied to car parks or arranged bathing places to take a dip or a break by the water. All we need to do is follow a path down to the sea.

To and from Germany, Denmark or Poland You can take your bike on the Öresund trains cross the Öresund Bridge between Malmö and Copenhagen. Along Sydkustleden, you pass several port cities with ferry traffic to the continent. From Ystad, Trelleborg and Malmö there are departures to Germany and Poland, and in Helsingborg there are ferries to Helsingör in Denmark. If you want to make a detour to a Danish cycling island, there are boats to Bornholm from Simrishamn and Ystad, and to Swedish Ven from Landskrona. Over the years we have taken our bikes to all the destinations above and we’ve always been satisfied with the combination of bike and boat. Just roll past the car queue, fasten your bike to the deck and check into a cabin. Find suitable departures At Directferries.se. Fancy bathing? On this route we are lucky enough to have some pleasant late summer temperatures, but even cooler days during the autumn and spring are great for a dip. Keep a higher cycling pace just before you step in, and you will get the best sauna effect. If you fancy a real sauna there are spa hotels Ystad Saltsjöbad and Hotel Mossbylund next to the trail.

Smygehuks open-air bath is along the trail. There is a sauna, pool and jetty for early morning dips.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydkustleden

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Most people who hear the name Ystad think of Wallander. The crime dramas were filmed here, and there are guided tours past the filming locations.

Hörte brygga.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydkustleden

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Much of the cycle route runs on a parallel cycle path along a country road. Despite the traffic it is a quiet route past beaches, villages and grazing animals.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydkustleden

Hollyhocks and the sea Ystad comes after Sydkustleden´s first 10 kilometres past fishing villages and sandy beaches Just like Simrishamn the city is filled with half-timbered houses and hollyhocks. There are well-preserved monasteries and colourful cobbled streets with restaurants and cafes. When we cycle through the centre it’s too late for breakfast and a little early for lunch, so we have a morning coffee at Söderberg and Sara. From the harbour we follow a paved cycle path into the countryside. As the sea is only metres from the road, the route is perfect for spontaneous stops. Next to the water we find a long piece of shade for a break with plenty of picnic tables in the Lilleskog nature area.

The road continues past Mossbystrand

and

Abbekås to Hörte. In this small fishing village we stop at the Hörte brygga restaurant which sells picnic baskets filled with locally grown food. Even

though

autumn

should have arrived it still feels like high summer on the outdoor patio next to the harbour.

It’s empty in the evening... The sea has swallowed most of the beach and only a strip of seaweed and pebbles separates the tussock from the water. Nature is alone and the birds sit quietly on rocks. The sun has gone in, but the water is still pink. Ferries are shining on their way to Germany or Poland in the Baltic Sea.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydkustleden

55 °20′13″N 13°21′34″E In sunny morning light we reach Smygehuk, Sweden’s southernmost point. At the harbour there is a tourist office, fish smokehouse and café, and there are binoculars facing the water at the lookout point by the sea. There is also a stone compass that indicates the distance to the country’s northernmost point, Treriksröset. After the small fishing villages of Böste and Gislöv’s läge we arrive at Trelleborg. On Strandgatan we pass a long avenue of palm trees and mild weather makes us pretend that the coordinates are somewhere else. From Trelleborg to Malmö, Sydkustleden winds past Skanör and Falsterbo. The resorts boast colourful fishing huts, beaches and nature areas for bird watching.

Large cities and small gardens As we live in Malmö, we don’t stop here, but if you do, there’s world-class city life and falafel waiting for you. Sydkustleden passes along the water, past the Ribersborg city beach and the well-known Turning Torso, before continuing towards Lomma. Landskrona appears about 40 km later. After a tour through the city centre, we cycle to the Citadellet castle which was built in the middle of the 16th century when Skåne was Danish. The echoing surroundings show the tourist season is coming to an end. While we walk past the moat and into the pale pink farm buildings we see a sign that says that the infamous angel maker Hilda Nilsson was jailed here during the time when the buildings were used as a prison. A creepy story if you want to research it more. Less creepy is the Citadel’s allotment area which is a short bike ride away. The area is Sweden’s oldest preserved allotment space and houses the country’s smallest museum, Rothoff’s allotment. As we visit Landskrona the mini cottage in the museum´s allotment is closed, but we stroll around the gardens until it is time to cycle towards Borstahusen camping.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydkustleden

Rothoff’s allotment garden is filled with produce.

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The 5-star Borstahusen campsite is close to the sea without affecting the coastal environment too much. There are grassy tent areas and a forest trail where you can set up your tent.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydkustleden

Landskrona Citadell.

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The hiking route to Hilleshög’s valleys is perfect for a short trip as the beautiful views appear shortly after start.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydkustleden

Hilleshög’s valleys and Glumslöv’s slopes On our way to Helsingborg, we park the bikes and take a short hike on Skåneleden’s stage 8 in the Hilleshög’s valleys and Glumslöv’s slopes nature reserves. The very part from Borstahusen runs along steep paths next to sandy sections that have collapsed into the sea. Shortly afterwards a hilly meadow spreads out, with the turquoise blue sea far below the slopes. Sailboats are bobbing up and don and the bicycle island of Ven is on the horizon. Sydkustleden runs close to the reserve on a paved cycle path next to a major road. Among Glumslöv’s slopes there are plenty of hilly gravel paths to cycle along. After the hike we follow them before we meet the trail again.

Among hundreds of tomatoes A short distance from Sydkustleden is Wallåkrabygden. Among the fields are potters, cafes and the large Tomatens hus where Patrik Andersson and Kristina Hjalmarsson grow tomatoes in all possible colours and shapes. We get a tour of the plants in the greenhouse and haven’t yet had time to eat lunch. We gratefully accept the samples that Patrik gives us. In their unprocessed form, tomatoes are a perfect cyclist snack, so even if you don’t carry a stove with you the store is a good stop along the route. There’s also a bakery with pastries and cold fermented stone-baked bread. After lunch at the restaurant Miss Alice next door, we continue cycling with our bags full of tomatoes. The sun is high above the sea and near Fortuna beach we cool off in an outdoor shower. The trail continues along the water and into Helsingborg’s industrial areas and suburbs. Towards the evening, the sky is still blue, but a look at the phone shows that we’ll meet tomorrow’s first part of the Kattegatleden in an autumn storm.

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Helsingborg is perfect to stroll around. Visit an art exhibition at Dunker’s cultural centre, get a view from the Kärnan watchtower or sit down at an open air-café.

Miss Alice serves tomato pie made from a secret recipe.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Sydkustleden

Tomatens hus is characterized by green thinking and no chemical pesticides are used.

KATTEGATTLEDEN

The cold bathhouse in Varberg is built in an oriental style.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Kattegattleden

THE KATTEGATTLEDEN ROUTE

HELSINGBORG - GOTHENBURG DISTANCE

390 km

STAGES

ETOOLS

Kattegattleden.se/en

Skanetrafiken.se

Hallandstrafiken.se

Vasttrafik.se

With a name from the nearby strait, it is easy to understand that Kattegatleden also follows the coast. The landscape differs from that along Sydkustleden. After the vineyards on the Kulla Peninsula and the long sandy beaches around Halmstad, the landscape becomes increasingly rocky and barren. The trail passes many of the west coast nature reserves, characterized by beach meadows and windswept shrubs. Heather heaths spread and a lone lighthouse shoots its light over the sea. Now, signs of autumn are beginning to appear. The wheels run over bike paths with yellow-red leaves and rose hips and sea buckthorn shine on thorn bushes.

A Scandinavian tradition Cold bathing is a year-round classic. Autumn and spring are perfect times for beginners. Cold bathing is usually naked and most establishments have separate sections for women and men. Along the South Sweden Trails there are several of the country’s finest cold bathhouses and they are as fascinating to look at as to swim in. We think some particularly nice stops are Karlshamns kallbadhus (Sydostleden), Ribersborgs kallbadhus (Sydkustleden), Pålsjöbaden and Varberg kallbadhus. The latter two are along this route.

Autumn in Helsingborg When Sydkustleden turns into Kattegattleden a storm comes in. On the way out of Helsingborg the rain increases and along the boardwalk the waves are high above the sea. We stop at the more than 100-year-old Pålsjöbaden cold bath house which shines in yellow against the grey. The temperature is perfect for a sauna, but this time we are content with watching the waves hit the building. Just like lighthouses, cold bath houses are made for stormy weather. During the day we cycle towards the Kulla Peninsula in rain, wind and sun. Along the road there are several nice stops, and we manage to take in Sofieros Castle when it’s dry. After walking around the green gardens, we continue along the coast, past the villages of Viken and Höganäs.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Kattegattleden

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Seconds before a giant wave at Pålsjöbaden kallbadhus sweeps over our feet.

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Sofiero Castle has awardwinning gardens. As a cyclist it’s good to know that you have to park your bike (and any packing) outside the gates.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Kattegattleden

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At Kulla Gunnarstorps mill we dry our clothes in the afternoon sun.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Kattegattleden

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Will is driven by the vision to create something close to nature. As well as glamping at Coasters you can pick flowers.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Kattegattleden

Among grapevines on the Kulla Peninsula After one last rain shower a rainbow forms over the sky. When we reach Coasters Glamping the sun is shining. The accommodation is in one of Sweden’s few wine districts. Next door is Kullabergs and Arilds vineyards, both of which offer tours and wine tastings. While we unpack our bikes one of the owners, Will Oldfield, comes walking along the plantations with a picnic basket in his arms. It’s full of delicacies from the Trädgården på Skäret farm shop ready to be cooked on the small gas stove outside the tent flap. Just like Coasters Camping, much of the Kulla Peninsula is about closeness to nature. Here are the mountainous nature reserves of West and East Kullaberg, and many of the accommodation options are in quiet surroundings

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a view of the sea. You’ll find plenty of restaurants and cafes too, especially around the small fishing village of Mölle, where we will have tomorrow’s breakfast.

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While we wait for breakfast at Mölle pottery, we get a peek among the potter’s wheel in the studio.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Kattegattleden

Glamping tents have no electricity and water, but there’s a toilet, shower and outdoor kitchen a short walk away.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Kattegattleden

Halland After Hallandsåsen and the beaches around Skummelövsstrand, Tylösand and Haverdal, parts of the coast are increasingly archipelago-like. We continue on cycle paths and narrow roads past Ugglarps Camping and nature reserve with its grazing cows. Towards the sea there are large stones and we jump off the bikes here and there to enjoy the views. Just like along the Sydkustleden, the countryside in Halland is filled with red-painted wooden houses. One of them is the Kilagårds Gröna fam where the owner Linnea Hall welcomes us. Together with her husband she grows KRAV certified (organic) vegetables sold in a carefully restored barn. Under the beams there’s a café where we sit down. After a long coffee break we are ready to move on. But before we leave, we follow Linnea and Ylva Rudling, the flower grower down to an area behind the farm. Ylva leases a plot of land where you can pick flowers yourself and around us there is a flower garden filled with different-coloured dahlias.

Linnea Hall and Ylva Rudling. Ever since the start, Linnea Hall has seen a potential with Kattegattleden. In the future she hopes to be able to offer accommodation options for cyclists.

Via Grimsholmen Nature Reserve On the way to Falkenberg we reach one of our favourite stops along the Kattegattleden – the Grimsholmen nature reserve surrounded by the sea. Like many nearby coastal nature reserves, the surroundings are characterized by cliffs and beach meadows with grazing animals. Towards Falkenberg the stone landscape is again replaced by sandy beaches. When the trail passes Skrea beach the dunes have grown high. Beach bars and facilities remind you that the holiday area is full of life and movement during summer, but now there’s only one solitary couple walking along the pier next to Falkenbergs Strandbad.

TIP! Dinner or coffee suggestions? If you want to eat at the hyped Lilla Napoli it can be a good idea to pre-book a pizza dough. Before we leave Falkenberg we take the opportunity to buy coffee to go from the historic Borgmästargården café.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Kattegattleden

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After sleeping at Hamngatan 27 in Falkenberg we cycle through the Old Town and cross the beautiful Tullbron and the river Ätran.

Both Glommen and Träslövsläge have nice harbours.

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Fresh catch of the day at Joels Brygga.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Kattegattleden

A detour to Fyrleden When the Kattegattleden continues along a major road at Olofsbo, we turn off towards the water. At a pedestrian crossing we spot the signs for Fyrleden (the Lighthouse trail). The route runs close to the coast through small villages and the countryside, and passes the Morups tånge, reserve which is a good place for bird watching. In the middle of the cobblestones and grasslands, Morup’s Tånge Lighthouse stands on its own on a hill. We have coffee with pastries from Borgmästargården while the rain rolls in over the sea. If you haven’t become hungry yet, the nearby marina in Glommen is a nice picnic spot. The Lighthouse trail ends in Glommen and we cycle along the Kattegattleden again. After 20 or so kilometres after the studios and farm shops around Morup we stop at Läjets Camping. As soon as we unload our baggage, we jump on the bikes and start pedaling again towards the Joels Brygga restaurant in Träslövsläge.

At Läjets Camping we get a different sleeping experience in a caravan cabin.

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Varberg’s fortress with medieval origins.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Kattegattleden

Varberg and the last part of the coast On the way to Varberg, the Kattegattleden runs to Apelviken beach. The white sandy beach is a popular bathing spot during sunny days, while the winds in the autumn and spring are better suited for surfing. From here to Varberg’s fortress, the Boardwalk winds through natural walking paths, cycle paths and rest areas. Varberg is as famous for its historic buildings as for being one of the country’s major health resorts. In the rocky bay next to Varberg’s fortress, we pass luxurious coastal hotels and simple beach huts. A short distance away is Varberg Kallbadhus which will be our last stop in the city and on the South Sweden Trails. While another storm rolls in across the sky, we hurry to the train station, where we roll the bikes onto the train to Malmö. We have previously cycled the entire Kattegattleden and would recommend cycling on the embankments around Frillesås and Säröbanan, the area close to the sea around Tjolöholm Castle, and of course the city of Gothenburg. Read more about the last two stages after Varberg at www. kattegattleden.se/en.

SOUTH SWEDEN TRAILS Kattegattleden

In the train carriage we lean back and look out of the window. Outside you can see forests, coasts and cities. Trees dropping their leaves, waves rolling in towards the beach, trains leaving towns. The distance we just cycled passes at amazing speed - and we can’t help but think about how much more you see from the saddle.

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