“FINAL PROOF (APPROVED)” box, date and sign at the bottom. NOTICE: PLEASE FAX THIS PROOF TO (805) 648-2245 ASAP
IN GOOD TASTE
ISSUE: 12
vcreporter.com
Far East goes Southwest by Nancy D. Lackey Shaffer
nshaffer@timespublications.com
From left: Chips and salsa; shrimp cocktail; pizzadilla with marinated beef; chicken mole served with refried Mayocoba beans and savory rice.
435 E. Thompson Blvd., Ventura 805-626-4151
I
www.vaqueroymar.com $7-21
t was with a heavy heart that we said goodbye to the iconic Hong Kong Inn some years ago. The decades-old institution, recognizable on Ventura’s Thompson Boulevard from its curved roof and 1960s-style sign, was beloved as much for its faults as its virtues. The Chinese food was greasy but flavorful. The interior was shabby and dated, but spacious, with room to dance and a large music stage. Some great bands played here, and the Polynesian music and dance revue was lively, nutty, throwback entertainment. The bar poured out tropical-inspired cocktails long before the retro revival turned tiki culture into a high art form. True, these were mostly overly sweet variations on fruit punch and rum, but served in festive glassware with a rainbow of garnishes, umbrellas and flaming embellishments. In short, the Hong Kong Inn excelled at campy, unpretentious fun. It changed hands once or twice before landing under the proprietorship of Gloria Gonzalez in early 2020 . . . a bad time to start a restaurant, as we now know. But Vaquero Y Mar (“cowboy and sea”), as it is called today, has managed to hang on. Gonzalez has kept some aspects of the old space, like the curved roof, the retro sign and even the large mural inside displaying an idealized Chinese harbor. But this is very much a different sort of place, with homestyle Mexican food instead of Chinese and a cantina-like atmosphere. I arrived with my family for a weekend lunch, and the place was completely empty. But the proprietress and her husband were so warm and welcoming, we chose not to be dissuaded. With some respectable margaritas, crispy chips and fresh, zippy salsa in front of us, it was even easier to feel optimistic. When it first opened, I recall that Vaquero Y Mar touted its menu as Tex-Mex; these days, I’d say it’s
leaning more heavily on the Mexican side of things. Burritos, tacos, enchiladas and the like . . . with a few interesting additions. There were three kinds of ceviche, for example, and marinated beef cooked in a broth (birria de rez con consomé). The specialty of the house — Chiles en Nogada — is made with a pasilla chile stuffed with a beef and fruit stew. That intriguing speciality was unfortunately not available the day we dined. But the chicken mole came highly recommended, and both the shrimp cocktail and CHECK LIST: birria pizzadilla sounded good. We found all three to be p phone number is correct p address is correct p expiration date is correct p spelling is correct well prepared and flavorful. The pizzadilla — a cross between a quesadilla DEADLINE FOR AD CHANGES IS 12:00 NOON THE TUESDAY PRIOR TO THAT ISSUES R PLEASE NOTE: and a pizza — consisted of two large flour tortillas sandwiched and topped a mix of produced marinated by beef, Allwith advertising the production department of Times Media Group, is the copyrighted property of Times Media G sponsored by cheese, cilantro and onions. Verythan filling . and very of advertising in any of Times Media Group’s publications is prohibited without the express use other the. .placement good. That beef was to die for; superGroup, tender and Times Media plusbeautiany applicable fees. p OK to run fully seasoned. It came with a cup of consommé on the Date: __________________________ side, which was delicious. While it seemed odd to dip a This proof is to check for accuracy and is p OK to run quesadilla in broth, itnot wasintended the perfect to accompaniment. show quality of reproduction. with correction Signature: ______________________ The shrimp cocktail was gorgeous, served in a chilled goblet loaded with seafood, vegetables and a tangy tomato base amply spiked with fresh lime. Not sure a chilly winter day is the right time to order this ♦ dish, but for freshness and flavor, it gets high marks. Sunrise 7:04 a.m. • Sunset 5:08 p.m. Patio Restaurant 2x6.indd 1 Not as high,12-7 however, as the mole. The presentation was humble: chicken leg and thigh bathed in thick, LOW TIDE HIGH TIDE brick-red sauce alongside rice and refried Mayocoba AM HT PM HT AM HT PM HT (Peruvian) beans. A home-cooking kind of dish, made Thur 5:34 2.2 6:44 -0.5 12:34 4.1 11:26 am 5.5 with care by a practiced hand. The mole was a nearly Fri 6:45 2.3 7:30 0.1 1:26 4.2 12:22 4.7 indescribable blend of chocolate, chiles and I’m not Sat 8:13 2.2 1:30 3.8 2:19 4.3 1:30 3.8 sure what else . . . savory, rich, complex and fabulous. The chicken was falling-off-the-bone tender. I’m not the Sun 9:52 1.9 9:07 1.3 3:12 4.5 3:02 3.2 biggest fan of mild Mayocoba beans, but these were an Mon 11:19 1.4 9:59 1.8 4:02 4.7 4:53 2.8 especially good preparation. I liked everything I ordered Tues 12:23pm 0.8 10:53 2.2 4:48 4.9 6:29 2.9 at Vaquero Y Mar, but I absolutely loved this dish. Wed 1:10pm 0.3 11:44 2.4 5:29 5.1 7:36 3.0 I can’t imagine a better meal for these cold January days than a platter of chicken mole and some marinatSurf Report: Finally some waves on the horizon! Small NW swell ed beef dipped in consommé. With authentic, homeis due this weekend and bigger swells to follow next week. style Mexican cooking served up by gracious hosts, Vaquero Y Mar is a far cry from the tropical escape to Shopvss.com Free shipping with a $30 purchase, use code: freeship$30 the South Seas that used to be found here. Rather, it’s a 88 e. thompson blvd. ventura 805-643-1062 venturasurfshop.com delicious trip south of the border. Buen viaje! January 6, 2022 — — 21
surf report
Photo of John Gianelli by Robert Chapman
Vaquero Y Mar
Tide Table January 6 - 12
Ventura Surf Shop-Surf Report 2x5.7.indd 1
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