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The Heaphy Track isn’t the hardest of New Zealand’s Great Walks but it is certainly the longest so, when I announced my intention to take it on, I was delighted that two Howick Tramping Club friends, Margaret Freeman and Philip Scothern, said they were keen to come too. A few emails and bookings later and we were set to fly Air NZ to Nelson on May 9, then board a flight with Mit Brereton from Adventure Flights Golden Bay in order to arrive near the Northern end of the track. The idea was to tramp to Perry Saddle Hut on the same day. The weather had other ideas! A low pressure system swept in across the Tasman delaying our landing at Nelson and our flight with Mit. Eventually, on flying out from Nelson, we enjoyed a thrilling 30-minute, small aircraft trip through mist and fog over the Takaka hill before landing at Adventure Flights private Takaka airstrip. We were then delivered to road end in Mit’s Ute. It was clearly too late in the day to attempt the walk to Perry Saddle Hut, about five to six hours away. What’s more, it was raining (moderately) and the light was failing so we just walked the 300 metres to Brown Hut where we spent the night. Other hut users had a roaring fire on the go which kept us toasty warm as we dried off and prepared our evening meal. Day two dawned clear and cool so, after breakfast, and returning a stray weta to the bush, we packed up, swept out the hut and headed for Perry Saddle following a route once surveyed for a road.
12 | eastlife | august 2021
A steady climb through beech forest took us to Aorere shelter where we had a snack and donned wet weather gear as it had started raining. There were good views over the Aorere Valley as we headed uphill to Flanagan’s corner so, Margaret took a short side trip to the highest point on the Heaphy track at 915 metres. Unfortunately, mist had settled in the valley so there wasn’t much to see. Half an hour later we arrived, sodden, at Perry Saddle Hut which was being buffeted by a strong wind. Stumbling into the lobby, we removed our packs and dripping coats and hoped we could stay for an unscheduled night as we were supposed to have been there a day earlier – as on all Great Walks, huts must be booked in advance to ensure a bunk. Almost immediately a helpful, young hut warden arrived and, on hearing our predicament, she contacted DOC to see if there were any spare bunks. Luckily, there were; we grabbed a spot, unpacked and put on dry clothing. Soon afterwards, a guided group of eight walkers and two guides arrived, all wearing pink ponchos provided by Bush & Beyond, which was leading the group. In addition, several mountain bikers, carrying their typically minimal gear, also arrived (during the winter season, May 1 to November 30, mountain bikers are permitted to ride the track). With a fire going, and a full hut, the atmosphere was warm and convivial.
We woke on day three to shrieking winds and driving rain, which made the 50-metre dash to long drop toilets very interesting! Breakfast and ablutions completed we again donned wet weather gear and gaiters then headed for Gouland Downs Hut for our planned overnight stop. The rain was heavy and, as we moved through the bush, we encountered numerous waterfalls and torrents of water running across the path. Caution was needed to cross these and the swollen side streams. Fortunately, we had walking poles to assist with balance. Leaving the bush we found ourselves on expansive tussock downs and an hour later arrived at Gouland Downs Hut, an older but very quaint, eight-bunk building. Although not as popular as the larger huts, we were very happy to have it all to ourselves that night and were most comfortable. Philip lit a stonking fire and we stripped off our wet gear, spreading it around to dry. Hot soup and an early dinner followed. Highlight of the afternoon was a visit from a cheeky weka! As daylight faded and the embers glowed we slid into our sleeping bags for a good night’s sleep. Day four was still wet ahead of our 17km tramp to James Mackay Hut. In no hurry, we enjoyed a nourishing breakfast, filled up our packs and headed off to look at some small caves in nearby bush. Finally, on track, we had a slightly
undulating walk over more tussock downs and crossed several fast flowing streams on what appeared to be recently upgraded bridges. Thankfully, some sections of boardwalk kept our feet dry and protected sensitive flora nearby. We stopped briefly at Saxon Hut for refreshments and encountered three mountain bikers cheerfully making the best of the wet. Later, a gentle climb through more bush took us past the lovely greens of damp mosses, ferns and lichens, while the red hues of horopito and dracophyllum trees were stunning in their brilliance after the persistent rain. By the time we reached James Mackay Hut the weather had improved. Elevated and surrounded by beech forest, this hut enjoyed expansive views to the coast. We could even see the Heaphy River mouth in the distance. A relatively new hut, it has 28 bunks and flushing toilets on a covered deck – absolute luxury! After finding our bunks and rolling out our sleeping bags, we headed for the large kitchen and communal area to whizz up soups and think about which de-hy meal to have for dinner. Thursday, May 13 came around and it was on to Heaphy Hut, more than 20 km away. A clear sky and frost on the hut deck pointed to a fine day so Margaret and Philip joined others in climbing to a vantage point behind the hut to view the sunrise. Soon everyone was astir being keen to start the downhill trek to Heaphy Hut. The gentle descent through beech forest, interspersed www.eastlife.co.nz
