NEWS ABOUT LIFE, STYLE & HOTELS ISSUE N o 03 | 2019 thestylemate.com
T H E S T Y L E M AT E .C O M
Photo: Untitled, inspired by Robert Frank, Vienna, 2018; Courtesy of Galerie Gisela Capitain, Cologne; Copyright Elfie Semotan
THE
Stylemate beyond borders
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
IN THIS ISSUE
Essentials Page 3
Interview with Elfie Semotan: Blurring lines and breaking down barriers Page 6
LIFE:
Exploring culinary borders: Borderline amazing Page 8 – 10 Artsy Lifestyle – Cultural Diary Page 11 Think big Page 12 Interview with Deborah Sengl: “We need to tear down the walls in our hearts.” Page 13 Interview with Bernd Neff: Where is paradise? Page 14 – 15 Franzobel Page 16
STYLE:
Motor City Detroit Page 17
HOTELS: LIFESTYLEHOTELS selection:
Focus on Matterhorn Page LH 01 Matterhorn Vibes Page LH 02 – 03 Hotel Nidum Hotel & Villa Auersperg Page LH 04 Monaci delle Terre Nere / New Member Page LH 05 Crazy Hollmann Page LH 06 – 07 Hotel Bergland Sölden Page LH 08 Sublime Comporta / New Member Page LH 09 Gradonna Mountain Resort Page LH 10 – 11 Directory lifestylehotels Page LH 12
Tick Tock Page 18 – 19 Design Core Detroit Page 20 – 21 Limitless fashion Page 22 – 24 Provocateur Page 25 Friedrich Liechtenstein column: Lucky me Page 26
If you do not want to miss an issue, you can also subscribe to THE Stylemate. thestylemate.com
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The cover of this edition features a striking photo of one of Austria’s most globally successful and exciting photographers: Elfie Semotan. As a young woman, she headed to Paris for a career in modelling but as time went by, she grew ever more interested in work behind the camera. People say her work has blurred the lines between fashion and fine art photography. She spoke to THE Stylemate (page 6) and told us more about herself and her work. This edition is also about lines – about borders and boundaries. Inspiration for this theme came from the 30th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. The ninth of November 1989 saw euphoric celebrations of reunification, and ever since, the country has looked back with pride at this moment of a border crossed and a barrier overcome. However, the artist Deborah Sengl tells us that she still sees “a permanent and very dangerous split in society” in the Germany of today. “Until we tear down the walls in our heads and above all in our hearts, we are worlds away from coexistence and interaction based on tolerance and peace.” We believe that travel and getting to know new people, different people, can facilitate precisely such interaction. We therefore invite you once again to engage with unknown people and places on the following pages and draw inspiration from real-life experiences.
Thomas Holzleithner & Hardy Egger EDITORS
IM PRIN T Media owner and publisher: Prime Time Touristik & Marketing GmbH, Schmiedgasse 38/1, 8010 Graz Editors: Thomas Holzleithner & Hardy Egger Editor-in-chief: Mag. Nina Prehofer Managing editor: DI (FH) Christin Maier-Erlach Cover photo: Untitled, inspired by Robert Frank, Vienna, 2018; Courtesy of Galerie Gisela Capitain, Cologne; Copyright Elfie Semotan Layout: VON K Brand Design Writers: Franzobel, Hedi Grager, Friedrich Liechtenstein, Mag. Nora Palzenberger Copy editor: Mag. Marlene Zeintlinger Advertising: office@thestylemate.com Printed by: Medienfabrik Graz, 8020 Graz Published in: Graz Publication: 3 x yearly
Photo: Heldentheater
Borders, boundaries and barriers Page 4 – 7
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
essentials GHD AIR®
CARE DUO
Every day is the right day to look great – and it needn’t even take long. The ghd air. hair dryer is the perfect styling partner. Its powerful motor supplies a high-pressure stream of air that dries your hair in half the time of conventional dryers with DC motors. Advanced ion technology reduces frizz and tames unruly hair twice as fast, giving a sleek, professional finish. It really can be that simple.
The “Resurrection Duet” of great cleanser and moisturiser offers ideal hand protection for both him and her. Aesop’s handcare set with mandarin orange peel, rosemary and Atlas cedar is gentle on the skin, smells amazing and leaves your hands as soft as a baby’s. Cleanse your hands with the Aromatique Hand Wash before applying the Hand Balm. Perfect teamwork. aesop.com, € 100
Now available exclusively for hotels. ghdhair.com/de
VINEGAR & OIL Flavour on the table with the “Twins”, designed for Bosa by Gordon Guillaumier. These oil and vinegar dispensers in glazed ceramic allow you to store both oil and vinegar in the same container. The initials engraved on the tops give a great antique touch. “Twins” reinvent a common object, adding an elegant gold or copper finish – and a great feature to any table. bosatrade.com, ca. € 100
O F T H I S
E D I T I ON
A M A T C H M A D E I N H E AV E N Tokusen Kashikosa snakewood Japanese chopsticks are another step up from ebony or rosewood, and a must-have for lovers of Japanese culinary culture. Snakewood is famous for its hardness, density, resistance to wear and unusual structure. This fine-pored wood is extremely rare and one of the most expensive in the world. The limited-edition chopsticks are handmade in the Marunao factory.
T R AV E L B U D D I E S
oryoki.de, € 289.90
As solo travel becomes increasingly popular, who could say no to trendy travel companions like this travel kit. The passport holder protects your most important travel item on every trip and the luggage tag rules out mistakes at baggage reclaim. They are also a source of inspiration when we are not sure where to head next. Made of vegan PU leather. iphoria.com, € 49.90
Photos: Aesop / iphoria.com / oryoki.de / bosatrade.com / Louis Vuitton / ghd®
SMART SIDE-KICKS Berlin is the city to be this autumn. The German capital is celebrating reunification – the fall of the Berlin Wall 30 years ago – with a whole host of exhibitions and events. Louis Vuitton has the perfect men’s accessory for the trip: the Keepall 50 with shoulder straps in black matt taïga leather. Soft to the touch, almost elastic, this bag bears the signature of the collection by Virgil Abloh, Men’s Artistic Director: the shining “X” in rainbow colours. If that isn’t perfect for Berlin, what is? The latest edition of the Louis Vuitton Fashion Eye gives you an up-to-the-minute look at the city. It shows Berlin and its artists through the eyes of fashion photographer Peter Lindbergh. Experience his very personal perspective. louisvuitton.com, € 50/€ 2.500
THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
ENTSCHULDIGEN SIE, IST DAS DER SONDERZUG NACH PANKOW
B O R D E R S , B O U N DA R I E S A N D B A R R I E R S
ICH MUSS MAL EBEN DAHIN, MAL EBEN NACH OST-BERLIN
TEXT BY NINA PREHOFER
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
A border marks the edge of an area and is therefore a dividing line or delimitation.
Photo: shutterstock.com, Lauren Wantling
Borders separate people, countries and thoughts. Yet even if they restrict us, we need them. Not least so that we recognise freedom.
Quotes from the lyrics of “Sonderzug nach Pankow” © Sony/ATV Music Publishing LLC, Universal Music Publishing Group, Songtrust Ave. Sung by Udo Lindenberg.
“Freedom cannot emerge without borders, without limits. Not least because a person can only feel free if they are able to sense the difference between that freedom and its absence. No human search for freedom is conceivable without overcoming existing borders, boundaries or barriers.” These were the words of the philosopher Konrad Paul Liessmann in an interview with the magazine brand eins. One border was overcome 30 years ago. The Berlin Wall fell on 9 November 1989 and united two parts of a whole that had been separated for decades and ought never to have been divided. A wall running through a European city is a concept that is hard to grasp, and yet it is now a popular one in today’s world. What did the wall mean in Berlin? A man-made border that split families, friends and lives and created two worlds out of one. Suddenly, a country that – even if devastated by the Second World War – belonged together, was torn in two. And the border was even more restrictive and immovable for one side than it was for the other. Whilst you could travel from “the West” to “the East”, going in the other direction was a lot more difficult. The East-West German border became one that still has an impact on people and life in Germany today. I can remember the wall too; I was a child at the time. I remember driving over to visit our family in Berlin. In West Berlin. When we arrived at the border, I was woken up by a heavily armed border guard who wanted to check that I really was the child indicated on my mother’s passport. That was in 1989, the same year in which the Berlin Wall eventually came down. Although I was not yet five years old, that memory remains imprinted on my mind.
I remember, too, the nervousness of my aunt, a Berliner who never wanted to travel to the East. Every time, she was terrified that my parents and her brother would not be able to return from one of their trips to the other side of the wall. She tried to hide it from us, from the children, but we could see that something was not right. Something troubled me as well, although of course I did not really grasp that we were in a divided city. Later, as young teenager who knew slightly more about that time but was hugely naive, I wished I were old enough to have had a more direct experience of the time. I imagined it all as an exciting adventure: driving to the East and passing through Checkpoint Charlie, entering a different world and getting to know the people on the other side of the wall. I still did not understand what that wall had really meant for people – and for the history of an entire country.
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
The Austrian photographer Elfie Semotan started her career in front of the camera as a model but soon discovered her passion for working behind the lens. And this has made her one of the most famous photographers who believe fashion photography has always been fine art photography.
blurring lines and breaking
Paris for the first time – and the decision to stay – was thrilling. I didn’t know if I would even be able to afford living there. I went into a hotel near Trocadéro and booked a room there for a week, which was all my budget could take. In other words, I had to find work as soon as possible. I reached for the phone book and called up all haute couture houses in Paris one after the other, asking whether they needed showroom models – the only condition was that I could start immediately. And it worked: I landed a job with Lanvin. The whole situation was of course hugely exciting for me. Lanvin was – like all fashion houses – in the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. I was hugely impressed with the wonderful space where customers sat and I had to demonstrate my modelling skills. Everyone was looking at me. I also recall that at the time, Lanvin had a young Spanish designer who spoke unbelievably fast in beautiful Spanish.
down barriers Why did you opt for the perspective from behind the lens so soon? In fact, the decision was not a quick one at all. It took a few years. Ultimately, I needed time to establish myself in Paris – with my limited French skills – and on the photo model market. The idea of being behind the camera had always appealed to me more, but back then it was just a notion. It wasn’t until I met John Cook, started working in the darkroom, learned how to develop and got a feel for how to photograph light and dark clothing, spaces and forms and how best to present things, that the idea really took shape. I spent a number of years photographing and developing myself, and learned a lot about the quality of light, film and paper. In short, about what goes into a good picture. People say you have “blurred the lines between fine art and fashion photography”, redefining fashion photography in the process. In my mind, I erased the line between fine art and fashion photography at a very early stage and decided for myself that I would not draw a distinction between the two. I don’t think there needs to be one. Good fashion photography has always been fine art photography. Such a classification has only ever been made by people whose work is not active or practical, but who simply look and observe, and then judge and categorise.
What drove you? It was not one specific thing, but simply the drive you have when you work. Whatever work you do, you want it to develop. In the same way, every goal you have should develop and you should move away from the place where you started – leave behind the rules that applied when you discovered your goal. I wanted to distance myself from the conventional patterns of fashion photography: staying in the same environment, emphasising classical beauty. I also wanted to distance myself from the presentation of established beauty as society sees it, the situations in which fashion photography is produced and rooted – a certain class and a certain approach, in other words the presentation of a life of luxury. That is something I could not and did not accept – not in my own life and not in fashion photography. Why do boundaries need to be expanded and overcome? Because if they are not, neither development nor progress is possible. Can we still achieve that today? Absolutely – and if you think you can’t, you need to do it anyway.
To what extent were you aware at the time of what you were doing? I was aware of what I was doing. I was also aware that what I was doing was new in the Austrian art context and in the context of the question of what is and is not art. In this country, a very clear distinction has always between drawn between fine art and fashion photography or between fine art and commercial photography. semotan.com
Photos: Elfie Semotan, Selbstportrait, New York, um 2010 © Elfie Semotan / o. T., inspiriert von Diane Arbus, aus der Serie Americana, Wien, 2018 © Elfie Semotan, Courtesy Galerie Gisela Capitain, Köln
What was it like the first time you arrived in Paris?
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
ALL DIE GANZEN SCHLAGERAFFEN DÜRFEN DA SINGEN
Photos: shutterstock.com: Abel Tumik / canadastock / carol.anne / Ewa Studio / ilolab
DÜRFEN IHREN GANZEN SCHROTT ZUM VORTRAGE BRINGEN
NUR DER KLEINE UDO, NUR DER KLEINE UDO DER DARF DAS NICHT, UND DAS VERSTEHEN WIR NICHT
ICH WEI SS GE NAU, ICH HA BE F U RC H T BAR VI EL E F R E U N DE I N DER DDR U N D S T ÜN DL ICH WE R DE N ES M E H R O CH , ERICH E Y, BIST DU DENN WI R KL IC H S O EI N S T URE R S C H RAT WA RUM L ÄSST DU M ICH N ICH T SI NGE N I M A RBE I T E RUN D BAUER N STAAT ? However, we don’t just want to talk about what divides. When borders are broken down and barriers overcome, we see what connects and unites us. All of a sudden, we start to engage with each other. When we travel and cross borders, we realise what might separate us from another culture, but we also recognise what we have in common. And if we open ourselves up and get to know other places and people, we come closer together. The photographer Elfie Semotan is famous for her successful efforts to remove the distinction between fine art and fashion photography. She has connected two disciplines that in many people’s minds had little to do with each other. Or take the US author and journalist Hunter S. Thompson, for example, who with one story blurred the lines between journalism and literature. His “Gonzo” style created a whole new genre. Thompson’s gonzo style became a form of professional anarchy with drugs and self-created chaos, which you are probably most likely to remember from the film “Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas” with Johnny Depp as Thompson. The German author and journalist Helge Timmerberg who writes hugely entertaining travel stories might be considered as
one of Thompson’s successors in style. Athletes regularly push their physical limits in competition. The Kenyan runner Eliud Kipchoge recently broke the twohour mark for a marathon, running the distance of 26 miles 385 yards in a record time of 1:59:40 hours. Asked why he was so determined to do it, he responded “I wanted to inspire people. I have shown that no-one has a limit.” Limits or barriers are created in our heads; they are man-made. So we finish as we started, with a quote from Konrad Paul Liessmann. “We could not perceive anything without borders or limits. They are the basis for each human insight, for each insight starts with a decisive act: understanding that this is not that. However, and this is part of every experience of borders or limits, we can also draw distinctions that are wrong. It is not the border or boundary that is the problem, but rather whether that border or boundary is sensible and necessary in that place. We should therefore never stop examining the rationale for and necessity of borders. HONEY, ICH GLAUB’, DU BIST DOCH EIGENTLICH AUCH GANZ LOCKER ICH WEISS, TIEF IN DIR DRIN, BIST DU EIGENTLICH AUCH’N ROCKER DU ZIEHST DIR DOCH HEIMLICH AUCH GERNE MAL DIE LEDERJACKE AN UND SCHLIESST DICH EIN AUF’M KLO UND HÖRST WEST-RADIO
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
three AT
feldversuche.at
MO S T VI ERT EL
F I E L D
People in Mostviertel want to learn, and are harnessing the potential of a whole region to slake their thirst for knowledge. The “Mostviertler Feldversuche” – literally “field trials” – are a chance to witness culinary experiments and experience unexpected flavours from top-class chefs at unusual locations and with local ingredients. Chef Theresia Palmetzhofer, the holder of two Gault-Millau toques, celebrated the world of experimentation outside in the pear orchard at Destillerie Farthofer distillery in September with malt bread and handmade raw milk butter, pear leaves stuffed with emmer wheat, raw marinated trout with Pichlbirne pears and trout caviare, crayfish soup with lemon basil, char grilled on a pear wood skewer and, to finish, malt ice cream with white chocolate mousse and damsons. More than one aspect of this meal was unique: all dishes were expertly prepared in a “field kitchen” without electricity, and the scenery on a beautiful late summer’s day was simply a dream. We can look forward to more “field trials” this year and in 2020.
Photos: © Mostviertel Tourismus / www.weinfranz.at
T R I A L S
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
borderline amazing eating and drinking experiences in Austria, Italy and Germany – with concepts that could not be more different.
Photos: Food photography courtesy of Spica / Interior photography Nathalie Krag
IT
spicarestaurant.com
M I L AN P ORTA VEN EZIA
I N T E R N AT I ON A L C U I S I N E International flair, exploration and conviviality: these are the ingredients that give the new restaurant “Spica” in the heart of Milan’s Porta Venezia district its distinctive flavour. The two star chefs, the Indian Ritu Dalmia and the Italian Viviana Varese, share a passion for international cuisine and for travel. That is why Spica offers guests a culinary journey through four geographical areas – Southeast Asia, the Indian subcontinent, Europe and America – with nothing but unexpected gourmet delights along the way. That journey is also reflected in interior design by architects Tiziano Vudafieri and Claudio Saverino. They have created a space with an unusual mix of Asian touches and a homage to the masters of 20th century Milanese design. The result is a colourful restaurant that captures the vibrant atmosphere of Porta Venezia and a young and dynamic clientèle.
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DE
einstein-udl.com
BERL I N
E A S T
“Einstein unter den Linden” in Berlin is usually famous for Backhendl Viennese chicken with Erdäpfelsalat (potato salad), Wiener Saftgulasch goulash, marinated Tafelspitz prime boiled beef with pumpkin seed oil, or apple strudel – in other words typical Austrian cuisine. The management team at GRILL ROYAL that took over the establishment in early 2016 does not want to change that. To mark the anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, however, a special set menu will be served on the evenings of 4 to 10 November. It is a culinary celebration of the reunification of East and West Germany. The meal starts with spicy and sour solyanka, a soup that is part of eastern European cuisine. Diners can then feast on Falscher Hase meat loaf and for dessert Frankfurter Kranz on kalter Hund, a symbolic meeting of East and West. Kalter Hund – literally: cold dog – is a chocolate no-bake sweet reminiscent of children’s birthday parties. The reunification menu is accompanied by a Pinot blanc from the Thuringian vineyard Zahn, the red cuvée “Heimat” from the Josten & Klein vineyard in Central Rhineland and a walnut schapps from the speciality Meissen distillery Prinz zur Lippe.
Photos: Jule Müller / Robert Rieger
M E E T S W E S T
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
EXHIBITION
berlin – nineties berlin A multimedia exhibition showcasing the exciting and colourful Berlin of the 1990s. This decade had a lasting impact on the city. “nineties berlin” catches the mood of those turbulent times with a multimedia exhibition and uses actual pieces of the Berlin Wall, sculptures and interactive elements to highlight the legacy of the 90s.
EXHIBITION
Photos: Bauhaus-Archiv Berlin, Ausstellungsansicht “original bauhaus”, Installation von Renate Buser, Photo: Catrin Schmitt / Albrecht Dürer, Feldhase, 1502, © Albertina Wien / Maria Lassnig, Du oder Ich, 2005, Private Collection. Courtesy Hauser & Wirth Collection Services © Maria Lassnig Stiftung, © Stefan Altenburger Photography Zürich / shutterstock.com, Mia2you
berlin – original bauhaus The “Original Bauhaus” exhibition by the Bauhaus-Archiv/ Museum für Gestaltung marks the Bauhaus anniversary by showcasing objects from its one-hundred-year history. Around 700 exhibits are on display at the Berlinische Galerie Museum of Modern Art, this is a colourful mix of famous, little-known and rediscovered pieces from the Bauhaus-Archiv and from around the world.
“Original Bauhaus” from 6 September 2019 until 27 January 2020 berlinischegalerie.de
“nineties berlin” until 28 February 2020 nineties.berlin
EXHIBITION
vienna – albrecht dürer We welcome back a much-loved figure who has been absent for too long: Albrecht Dürer’s Young Hare. As part of its Dürer retrospective, the Albertina is letting the world’s most famous hare out of its “hutch” for a few months. The Albertina has the most significant collection of the master’s drawings in the world with over 140 pieces. Add other major works on international loan, and the exhibition comprises more than 100 drawings, around a dozen paintings, personal records and other rarely seen documents.
EXHIBITION
vienna – maria lassnig Maria Lassnig was one of the 20th century’s most significant artists. In honour of the Austrian painter’s 100th birthday, the Albertina in Vienna is staging a retrospective. “Ways of Being” showcases Lassnig’s major and seminal works. A must-see!
“Maria Lassnig” at the Albertina in Vienna from 6 September until 1 December 2019 albertina.at
“Albrecht Dürer” at the Albertina in Vienna from 20 September 2019 until 6 January 2020 albertina.at
A R T SY
L I F E S T Y L E
EXHIBITION
AU C T I O N
miami – art district Miami is also home to a number of impressive private art collections of international significance, for example The Margulies Collection at the Warehouse, the De la Cruz Collection and the Rubell Family Collection, which is one of the largest private modern art collections in America. Visitors in the city for the Art Basel should also take time to view these collections. margulieswarehouse.com, delacruzcollection.org, rfc.museum
ELISABETH SKOFITSCH-HAAS is an art expert and works for the auction house “im Kinsky” in Vienna. She has put together her favourite current highlights from the art world for THE Stylemate. imkinsky.com
vienna – im kinsky auction FA I R
miami – art basel miami beach Around 260 exhibitors from 32 different countries will be showing works from more than 4000 artists at this international modern art fair. Art Basel Miami Beach is one of the most important art fairs in the United States and a cultural and social highlight in North and South America. Artists, collectors, curators and art critics come here to find out about the latest art trends. The fair combines an international selection of more than 220 leading galleries from North America, Latin America, Europe, Asia and Africa with an exciting programme of special exhibitions and crossover events involving music, film, architecture and design. You can feel the spirit of the Art Basel throughout the city, which in the same week hosts satellite art fairs, glitzy parties and countless other events.
“Art Basel Miami Beach” from 5 until 8 December 2019 artbasel.com
Major classical modern artworks will be going under the hammer at the 130th “im Kinsky” auction, with a particular focus on the Wiener Moderne of Gustav Klimt, Egon Schiele and Oskar Kokoschka. The auction house specialises in Austrian Neue Sachlichkeit artists, for example paintings by Franz Sedlacek and Rudolf Wacker. Art Nouveau & Design regularly offers an excellent selection of items from the Wiener Werkstätte, art from around 1900 and design from the 1950s and 1960s. Contemporary art from 1945 to the present day is another auction house specialisation.
“Classical modernism – Contemporary art – Art nouveau & design” on 26 and 27 November 2019 imkinsky.com
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
Everything began for Alessandro Painsi in the small town of St. Margarethen a.d. Raab in East Styria. This is where he grew up before starting his studies in art and design at Ortweinschule school in Graz. He travelled to Denmark for work in 2013 as a Latin American dance champion. There, he met Amalie, the love of his life – and stayed in Aalborg. “The focus in dancing was less on art and more on athletic prowess. I wanted to do something artistic, and started to paint.” Ever since, he and street artist Frida Still Vium have run one of the most successful youth art studios in Europe. “We work with schools and support organisations, offering young people the chance to explore their creative potential. Through art, we want to help overcome barriers, because in art, it does not matter where you are from.” Seen like that, art can also create strong connections. Painsi himself describes his style as abstract, and he sees his rapid brushstrokes as a great ad-vantage: “I can’t imagine thinking beforehand about what I am going to paint – it simply hap-pens.”
His highly successful first solo show was at Freddy Maier’s Vinariat in Stainz in 2018. This was fol-lowed by work shown by the Simons Gallery at Art Context in Miami, his “Abandoned Industry” project at the Rudolf Budja Gallery in Salzburg, collaboration with the Danish fashion designer Kristoffer Simonsen, and Art New York in May 2019. “I have always believed in myself and I work very hard, but I never thought that things would take off internationally so quickly. It is a dream come true.” In Denmark, Painsi is represented by Galerie Wolfsen and his agent is currently working on shows in Asia and Russia. The young artist has high ambitions. “I want to be the greatest artist in the world and to change the world with my art.” He is not lacking in self-confidence, but also sees himself as loyal and grounded. His family is very important to him. He has already faced jealousy, but “I have worked hard to get it”, he says smilingly.
To Painsi, art means crossing boundaries. “Each show makes me really nervous, because I am showing something very personal, revealing a lot about myself and being judged by people. Every show is a boundary that I am crossing. This is something I am familiar with from my time dancing at championships, but that was above all about physical limits”, he explains thoughtfully. “My deci-sions usually mean leaving my comfort zone, yet that often changes my whole life.” In December, Alessandro Painsi will once again be featuring at Art Miami with Budja Gallery. A major solo show in Denmark is planned for 2020. “Exhibitions at museums, huge installations and people who visit cities around the world just to see my installations – that is what I want.”
ALESSANDRO believes what Andy Warhol said, namely that the artist is a greater artwork than the art itself. “And I believe in myself.”
instagram.com/picassandro
think B I G .
A L E S SAN DRO PA I N SI HA S ON LY J U S T T U R N E D 23 AN D I S A L R E A DY C ONSI DE R E D T O BE ON E OF AU S T R IA’S GR E AT YOU NG A RT I S T IC TA L E N T S WI T H HUGE I N T E R NAT IONA L P O T E N T IA L . AN D H E I S T H I N K I NG BIG : “I WAN T T O BE T H E GR E AT E S T A RT I S T I N T H E WOR L D !”
Photos: Dominic Erschen / Reinhard Sudy
TEXT BY HEDI GRAGER
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
“we need to tear down
INTERVIEW NINA PREHOFER
hearts.” What awaits people in your escape room? “Escape!” is an artistic experience that explores the very topical issue of flight. Visitors can expect a mixture of traditional escape room methods, exhibition features and multimedia experiences. I am seeking to reach as broad as possible an audience with this highly emotional content. What “emotional extremes” can visitors expect? Panic, fear ...? I am not trying to recreate a real escape experience. An empathic engagement with the hopelessness and desperation of escapees and their stories was and is the main motivation behind my project. To help stimulate a sense of that situation, I confront visitors with various fears, for example the fear of violence, darkness or tight spaces. The focus is not, however, on panic. Instead, I want to tap into our innate emotions by evoking such situations. Your work always centres on people – what was different about your work on “Escape!”? My work is always sociocritical. The behaviour or misbehaviour of us humans has always been what fuels my art. “Escape!” is, however, without a doubt my most emotional work to date. I have been developing it since 2015 as a response to the so-called migrant crisis. The fate of countless individuals who had lost their livelihoods and had to leave their homes deeply moved me. Many people in this country showed their sympathy and offered help. Other, however, were
LIFE DEB ORA H SE NGL I S ON E OF AU ST R IA’S L EA DI NG A RT ISTS.
the walls in our
unmoved, unsympathetic or even rejected those who fled here. That attitude provoked a great sadness in me. Another difference is that “Escape!” breaks with the traditional exhibition situation and involves viewers much more intensely through its immersive approach. You collaborated with the organisation “Fremde werden Freunde”. What did you learn during work on this project? What moved you the most? As the seriousness of my project is very important to me, I was committed from the outset to involving an NGO. “Fremde werden Freunde” was set up, like the concept for “Escape!”, as a direct response to the influx of refugees in late 2015. The focus of the organisation is on inclusion and on breaking down prejudices between people of different origins and cultures. Neither of us see our work as a party political statement but rather as an appeal to humanity. In the course of our work together, I had the opportunity to get to know a number of people with experience of flight. They offered objects, photographs and their own, very personal stories for the project. This huge trust and their positive response to how this sensitive topic was presented deeply moved me. Why are some people moved and feel sympathy, whilst others respond with fear (or indeed hate) to the question of flight and migration? I think that the greatest source of fear is generally the unknown. Unfortunately, people often unquestioningly adopt prejudices from their family or social
Have you also experienced negative reactions to this work? Not yet, but I am prepared for this project to be polarising and for some people not liking it for a variety of reasons.
in 1989/90, I also see a permanent and very dangerous split in society there. Until we tear down the walls in our heads and above all in our hearts, we are worlds away from coexistence and interaction based on tolerance and peace.
Photos: Skulptur: © Deborah Sengl, Photo: © Bernd Preiml
In her new work “Escape!” at MuseumsQuartier Wien in Vienna, she has used contemporary art to create a 300 m2 experience where visitors can critically engage with the topic of “escape”. environment. Virtual “echo chambers” also have a considerable influence on society. Closed, narrow-minded attitudes are sadly currently much more prevalent than direct and above all emotional engagement with those around us.
“ESCAPE!” BY DEBORAH SENGL From 15 October 2019 at MuseumsQuartier Wien, book online. mqw.at
This year, we are celebrating the 30th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall, yet we are now seeing more and more borders being created. What is your response to this paradox? To me, this is not necessarily a paradox, as it is not only the visible walls that divide our world(s). As great as it is that Germany underwent what is known as reunification
What do you hope to inspire in people when they come out of the escape room? I want to encourage people to think; I want to appeal to their feelings. We have lost our culture of discussion in a society that only voices opinions that are either “for” or “against”. Ideally, I would like “Escape!” to make a small contribution to a more open and nuanced way of thinking.
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
where
T R AV E L F E S T I VA L 6–8 March 2020 Arena Berlin berlintravelfestival.com
Photo: Steve Herud
is
BERLIN
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
LIFE
INTERVIEW NINA PREHOFER
This is the title of the upcoming Berlin Travel Festival. Event founder Bernd Neff spoke to us about the search for paradise, what locations will be drawing visitors in the coming years and how travel is getting “better”.
Mr Neff, where is paradise? When we think of “paradise”, we often think first about escape. Escape from our routine and responsibilities. Escape from the stress of everyday life. Originally, the word paradise meant a walled garden oasis that offered a break from the dry and blistering desert heat. If paradise is not one particular place, what can make a place our personal paradise? Nowadays, there is hardly anywhere in the world that is inaccessible. And even if a place is untouched, our efforts to find it mean it will not remain that way for long. When we meet other cultures, we not infrequently trample their customs and traditions under our hiking boots. Our plastic and our rubbish is choking the seas and being washed up on land. From the Mount Everest base camp to the piazzas of Rome, overtourism is leaving mounds of rubbish in its wake, so when we ask where paradise is, we perhaps also need to ask what state it is in. How is it being treated and experienced? How is it being protected and conserved? How does it affect us? Even more importantly, how are we affecting it? Why did you set up the Berlin Travel Festival? I had the idea for the Berlin Travel Festival in 2016. I wanted to explore and highlight what travel means in today’s world, from the way in which trips are planned to how moments are recorded and shared. The basic idea is that travellers share their experiences with potential travellers. We want visitors to get inspiration and ideally be encouraged to plan their next trip. Too often, we find a thousand excuses not to do something. Often, this is because we are afraid of the unknown. The festival is designed to show that it is worth overcoming your fears and heading out. What can we look forward to at the 2020 festival? We are still in the midst of preparations for next year, and at the moment, new highlights are being added almost every day. There will once again be around 200 exhibitors and c. 150 presentations and workshops. We can, however, already reveal that almost all parts of Australia will be represented at the Festival – North, Southern and Western Australia. The State of Brandenburg will be bringing unusual highlights from the various regions closer
to visitors, from hiking and surfing to unexpected culinary delights. Azerbaijan will offer an impression of life in the Caucasus, and the tour organiser Beyond the Standard will be offering wild trips on your surfboard, in the snow or on your motorcycle. This year’s highlights include the man of many talents Fynn Kliemann, YouTuber, DIY expert, businessman and now also singer. At the Berlin Travel Festival, he will be talking about a skate park he built in Syria. The one-legged climber Tom Belz will be telling us the story of his ascent of Kilimanjaro on crutches. Other speakers include the writer Lea Rieck, who has travelled the world on her motorbike, and the biologist and survivalist Manuel Larbig from “Waldsamkeit”, who will be sharing exciting tips and handy tricks on starting fires and on survival foods. You often talk about “new” travellers. Who are they, and what do they value? This new generation wants an authentic, creative and open engagement with other countries and cultures. A question now asked more and more often is “Do we need to fly to the ends of the earth just because we can? Or is there an exciting community close to me that offers just as rich an experience?” New travellers are firm in the belief that it is worth spending a few extra hours on a boat or in a train if they can improve the quality of forests and rivers by reducing CO2 consumption. What do they need to be offered? The new generation of travellers has developed a consciousness that has become a movement. There is now a shift towards careful, sustainable travel. A call to change travel. All tourist providers must be clear about how and why someone should come to or travel with them. New travellers will reject quick deals. They will stop thoughtlessly consuming and instead take a socially and ecologically responsible approach – and they want to get involved in local communities. Where will people be heading next? On the one hand, to destinations close at hand, which are more or less on our doorstep, and on the other to what are known as secondary cities, which are not overrun by hordes of tourists. After the great hype surrounding Georgia, I would now confidently add the entire
What are the needs of solo travellers? Caucasus region and large parts of the former USSR to the list. Hardly anywhere in the world offers such a range of art, culture, tradition and ethnic diversity with a hearty dose of the surprising and unexpected. South Tyrol is another interesting region with a lot to offer. Everything from places for relaxation and reflection to outdoor adventures – not forgetting Michelin-starred cuisine rooted in Alpine tradition. Will travel get “greener”? Travel will get “better”. We will all learn to take a more responsible approach to resources. We need to challenge ourselves to create a more complex and connected, shared idea of travel: an idea of travel that starts on our doorstep, embraces the world around us and is focused on a more sustainable future. This does not mean that we should not continue to explore the world. But it does mean that we should also look closer to home. What ecological standards must destinations and hotels meet in future? In general, destinations and hotels should make a contribution to sustainability – whether this be with innovative architecture, regional organic cuisine, healthfocused wellbeing programmes, high environmental standards or community involvement on the part of staff. All these aspects make an important contribution for people and the environment in their region whilst offering guests an authentic and memorable holiday experience. People are travelling alone more often than ever. Is this reflected in what providers are offering? Yes, the trend towards solo travel and solo female travel is being reflected in the services available. Tour operators are putting together packages for solo travellers, apps are offering travel match-making and some business hotels have womenonly floors.
paradise?
The needs of solo travellers can vary widely. Firstly, a woman often has completely different priorities from a man when travelling. If you then also look at the purpose of the journey, for example a business trip, city break or adventure, the picture is completely different again. Perhaps the greatest advantage of solo travel is that you do not need to compromise; you are completely independent and free to do what you want. Another point can be that solo travellers are more open to engaging with new people. Couples or groups have a slight tendency to withdraw and not be quite so receptive to inspiration from the outside. Travel can thus rapidly become something that engages and connects. What national borders should we absolutely cross before we die? Bucket lists are outdated. Each of us should decide ourselves how many air miles a year we can justify and how we can balance them out. Many people now only go on holidays that are possible by rail. Depending on how much time you have, you can then consider how many borders you want to cross, or not … What makes for a successful trip? Exchange with locals, experiencing hospitality, that feeling of being happy and welcome in a given place, in other words typical local cuisine and trying the exotic, and finding peace and quiet – when I am on holiday, I want to have to worry about as little as possible. Or, as Harald Juhnke said, “no commitment and a few glasses of the good stuff”.
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
LIFE His great historical adventure novel “Das Floß der Medusa” (Zsolnay publishing house) was awarded the Bayerischer Buchpreis (Bavarian Book Award) 2017 and was on the shortlist for the German Book Prize 2017.
FRANZOBEL
Dear Sir, Let me begin by telling you that you look ridiculous.
Lounging around half-naked with vine tendrils in your hair and a floozy on your arm, you look like a pimp who’s walked through a hedge backwards. But if that is what you want, who am I to stop you. Keep on grinning like a madman; the smile will be wiped off your face soon enough. But I digress. I, Pancras Sobriety, accountant, led a life of abstinence and in strict accordance with sensible, prudent limits – until I was forced to make your acquaintance, or rather the acquaintance of the product that you advertise. And it all started so innocently. The staff at our company organised an outing. Usually, I would shun such activities and devote myself instead to my books. On this occasion, however, I had great difficulty in withstanding the urging of my superior, a man by the name of Fidelio Meier. When Miss Lacrimosa, who holds the reins of our secretariat, announced that “Sobriety is joining us”, I was all but compelled to attend. I should perhaps mention here that the young lady has considerable charm. The excursion was to be an opportunity to explore the beautiful countryside of the Wachau. And so it proved to be. The weather was delightful, as was the picture presented by our party. As we proceeded on our constitutional,
I had no inkling of the impending disaster. On the contrary, I enjoyed the view of the vineyards. Carefully strung wires, as regular as a balance sheet, and sophisticated irrigation systems. Our guides explained that the herbs growing on the ground gave the beverage a particular quality. The blooming rosebushes at the ends of the rows of vines were not merely pleasant to look at, but also useful, as they gave an indication of any mildew. As I said, everything was completely innocent. It was not until we arrived in a wine cellar that I should have smelt the rat lurking in those barrels, for it was simply impossible to refuse the samples offered. I should stress that the beverage by no means reminded me of elder or apple with a light citrus note, but in fact of vinegar. Only a short time later, my mathematical self was, as they say, one over the eight. You are the one responsible for this, sir. I am by nature a reserved man, but Sodom and Gomorra were a picnic compared to what happened on this excursion. Nothing but excess! If one is to believe the reports, I danced half-naked on the table. People are familiar with my proverbial taciturnity. Yet under the influence of this wine, I forgot myself. Apparently, I entertained the assembled company, gave Fidelio Meier a piece of my mind and wrested a promise of marriage from Miss Lacrimosa. All this was your fault, Mr Bacchus. My life is ruined; I am floundering and all boundaries have blurred. I have fallen victim to wine. But let me tell you one thing: I shall not end like you, or at least not immediately. True, my boss has promoted me, I am suddenly popular with my colleagues and Lacrimosa likes me, but if you imagine for a minute that we are therefore going to name the child she is carrying after you, you are quite mistaken. That is the truth of which you are doubtless aware, as that truth lies in you, in vino veritas. CHEERS.
a letter to bacchus
Photo: Dirk Skiba
Franzobel is an Austrian writer. He has published numerous plays, works of prose and poems. His plays have been produced in countries including Mexico, Argentina, Chile, Denmark, France, Poland, Romania, Ukraine, Italy, Russia and the USA.
LIFESTYLEHOTELS LIFESTYLEHOTELS.NET
Selection
Photo: JOE.CONDRON, ROCKZERMATT.COM
03 | 2019
The Matterhorn, one of the highest mountains in the Alps, is a symbol of Switzerland and famous for its striking shape. The design hotel Matterhorn FOCUS lies at the foot of this mountain in Zermatt, and offers not just a great location and amazing views, but also personal service, wonderful amenities and a relaxed ambiance. EINER DIESER BESONDEREN ORTE: M AT T E R H O R N F O C U S D E S I G N H O T E L Z E R M AT T
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Issue No 03 | 2019
FOCUS DESIGN HOTEL
matterhorn vibes
SWITZERLAND Z E R M AT T
30
rooms with a view
1
luxurious spa
Photos: Matterhorn Focus, Simon Bernlieger
M AT T E R H O R N
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Issue No 03 | 2019
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Photos: Matterhorn Focus
At the Matterhorn Focus Design Hotel, you can look forward to the winter season with even greater excitement. New rooms and suites with a view of that majestic mountain – and free-standing bathtubs. In other words, a great atmosphere and beautiful views are once again guaranteed.
As I watch the live webcam from my house and admire the wintry beauty of the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise, a song by Wolfgang Ambros comes to mind. Perhaps because I’m from Styria. And almost certainly because these snowcovered mountains bring out the same yearning in me as the singer expresses in his song “Schifoan”. So I too put on my skis and head for Zermatt, Switzerland. For the Matterhorn Focus Design Hotel.
From the valley station, you can take the “Matterhorn Express” straight up the Matterhorn, or up the Riffelberg to Gornergrat or the Italian ski resort of Cervinia.
A FRAME FOR THE MOUNTAIN
OFF THE PISTE AND INTO THE SPA
Christian and Sonja Noti built this design hotel in 2008 in a top location right at the valley station for the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. The original plan was for two buildings before a third unexpectedly became available. It was initially left in its original condition, but has now been modified to fit with the other two. Like its sister houses, the third building now also has a wonderful timber façade, a stone roof and floor-to-ceiling windows – and the view is better than any live webcam! The peak of the Matterhorn rises up in all its glory, and it’s clear why all that some people want to do here is get out their skis.
I head from the slopes straight to the spa, which has an indoor pool and outdoor jacuzzi, Finnish sauna, caldarium and salt water pool. The spa offers traditional sports massage as well as lomi lomi and hot stone. On my way to the spa, I was completely taken with the swanky new ski room, which has separate lockers for your ski boots. And they are heated! “We don’t have our own restaurant, but we do have a small snack menu. We won’t let our guests go hungry! I also recommend the many excellent restaurants in Zermatt. The selection is huge” explains manager Patrizia Gasser when asked about eating out. What is she particularly proud of? “Our guests always stress how great the service from our staff is. Many of our employees have been with us since we opened. That is pretty unique in this industry.”
Sitting by the fire in the lounge, I too can already feel the hotel’s good vibes. The fireplace was designed by local artist Heinz Julen, who also had a key role in much of the rest of the hotel’s interior design. One last question: which of the 30 rooms has the best view of Matterhorn? Now that would be telling. You’ll just have to find out for yourself ...
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Issue No 03 | 2019
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N I D U M C A S UA L L U X U RY H O T E L
Where opposites attract and combine to create a feeling of harmony: the NIDUM Hotel is the perfect place for a luxurious holiday in a relaxed atmosphere. And for the ultimate culinary treats.
absolute luxury
AUSTRIA TYROL / MÖSERN / SEEFELD This is a hotel that lives up to its name. In Mösern near Seefeld, the “Schwalbennest” or “swallow’s nest” of the Tyrol, the NIDUM Hotel (Latin for “nest”) is a stylish retreat for a new generation of travellers seeking a relaxing holiday in a luxurious setting. That very combination of opposites is what makes a stay in this family-run hotel so attractive: luxury meets casual, and elegance meets cosiness. This philosophy extends to the kitchen of the casual luxury hotel, where exacting head chef Michael Eigl produces the perfect symbiosis of traditional and modern culinary specialities. In one of the three restaurant areas, adventurous and discerning guests are treated to fresh, seasonal and local produce from culinary masters. Asked about the hotel’s signature dish, Michael Eigl recommends smoked Leutasch trout on a bed of cucumber with pistachios. The kitchen team is constantly devising new delights for gourmet guests, and vegans will also find a large selection of dishes to choose from on the menu each day. Those not wishing to fall straight into
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their cosy beds in one on of the 57 spacious rooms after such a meal can spend the rest of the evening relaxing on the Apero Terrace or chilling out in the champagne bar. You can literally drink in the hotel ambience with a NIDUM gin & tonic with juniper berries, slices of apple, elderberries and ginger. On that note: Cheers!
H O T E L & V I L L A AU E R S P E R G S A L Z B U R G
an inspiring philosophy
“A careful and respectful approach, clear communication and an attitude that promotes peace. That is what we want. We were also fed up with having to justify why we pay our staff more and sell our products at higher prices. The logical decision was therefore to commit our philosophy to paper and become part of the Economy for the Common Good”, explains Bettina Wiesinger. The first step was for the hotel to obtain its organic certification – it had always bought only the very best quality. The Wiesingers then wanted to share the success with their staff, so they used profits to gift employees shares that could be cashed in tax-free. The Economy for the Common Good is also about solidarity and human dignity. “We believe in a good life for everyone. We also enjoy being able to take time for important issues that go beyond the everyday. That is inspiring.”
AUSTRIA SALZBURG
55
rooms in the hotel and in the villa
All the changes have been worth it. Hotel Auersperg is now attracting staff who appreciate this approach and are excited about becoming part of the team – not least so they can help shape what happens. That excitement is, of course, also clear to the guests. “During the Salzburg Festival in particular, we host guests with very high standards. And that is precisely when I realise how greatly people appreciate what we do. Guests love the warmth and authenticity they experience from everyone at the hotel. More and more people want that experience, but it cannot be bought”, Bettina Wiesinger firmly believes. In other words, this is a win-win situation for everyone. If the staff are happy, the guests are happy, and the hoteliers are happy – and the staff are happy. A cycle of quality.
Photos: NIDUM Hotel / Lobby: Mark Wiesinger, Hotel Auersperg
Business that feels good. That could be one way to describe the philosophy of Hotel Auersperg and its owners Bettina and Mark Wiesinger. To demonstrate and highlight that philosophy and ambition, they set up a business of the Economy for the Common Good.
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Issue No 03 | 2019
NEW MEMBER
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A volcano, a vision and an incredible idyll. The Monaci delle Terre Nere in Sicily is one of the most beautiful places in Italy.
MONACI DELLE TERRE NERE – C O U N T RY B O U T I Q U E HOTEL
I T A LY S I C I LY / Z A F F E R A N A E T N E A
27 rooms
1
certified organic farm
black earth
Photos: Alfio Garozzo / Robin Ball
HORSE, E-BIKE OR HELICOPTER? A very special corner of the world that is more than worth a visit. The Country Boutique Hotel Monaci delle Terre Nere in Sicily lies between Europe’s highest active volcano, Etna, and the sea. Relaxing in the hotel garden with Etna towering above you is a simply wonderful feeling. The impressive volcano is not only guaranteed to lift your spirits, it has also produced an amazingly fertile soil. Fruit, vegetables, herbs and wine: the hotel grows them all on its own farm – which is what makes the food at the restaurant, the “Locanda Nerello”, so delicious. Everything started with Guido Coffa’s vision. He wanted to combine a series of agriculture plots, reinvigorate the land and let people experience the energy of Etna. Since the hotel opened in 2012, it has grown to 27 rooms, suites and villas. It is the people who make the place what it has become. The dedicated team from head chef to landscape architects create absolute beauty – doubtless under the inspiring influence of Etna.
“Our guests are looking for the special, the unique, and a genuine focus on nature. They want a meaningful connection with their destination. In our hotel, they can escape the tourist trails and find peace”, says general manager Giovanna Manganaro. She has her guests sample Etna wines, climb the volcano, ride horses or e-bikes, and, if they prefer the view from above, even sends them up in a helicopter. Guests are encouraged to get involved in the estate and enjoy living life in the “slow lane”. For example, they can help filch organic eggs from the protective hens, learn Sicilian cuisine and how to make pasta, attend yoga courses or simply explore the area on wonderful walks. For those seeking more civilisation, Taormina, Catania and the sea are all within easy reach.
IDYLLS FROM A BYGONE ERA The estate covers a series of hills with lava rock terraces running across them. The black earth left behind by the volcano has a strange pull. Local, organic vines are cultivated in the vineyard, and everything in the fruit and vegetable patch is also organic. At the centre of the estate is the main building with its white baroque patterned stone. You can see it has been restored with great care, and it provides a charming centrepiece. Discover the lawns
and quiet terraces that border the olive and lemon groves, and end the day by slipping into the elegant pool with its sea view. You no longer need to dream: this is where dreams come true.
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Issue No 03 | 2019
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Crazy Hollmann Worldwide
Trieste, Vienna, the Turracher Höhe pass, Paris and Sri Lanka are your five favourite places. What is the essence of a favourite place? I grew up in Turracher Höhe and used to go to Trieste all the time with my uncle when I was a boy. These are places from my childhood. Sri Lanka is a far-off place that my wife and I fell in love with. In other words, my favourite places are places that I associate with my childhood and my family.
F R A N C E : PA R I S I T A LY : T R I E S T E AUSTRIA : TURRACH & VIENNA SRI LANKA : DIKWELLA SOUTH
5 destinations Endless attention to detail
In Trieste, you have to jump naked in the sea. On the Turracher Höhe, it’s jumping naked into the snow or cooking on an open fire. In Sri Lanka, let every pore in your skin breathe and simply inhale the Indian Ocean. Vienna is Vienna and Paris is Paris. What is a must in every Crazy Hollmann? All Hollmanns pay huge attention to detail. The concepts are mine and I am 100 % committed to them. That is why I don’t want to create hotels, because too many employees dilute the concept. “Apartments” doesn’t really do justice to them – all Hollmanns are really my homes that I happen to share with others. A lot of love has gone into them all. Mr Hollmann, you claim to hate hotels. What is so terrible about them?
Which details are particularly important to you?
Of course I was trying to be provocative, but I do in fact feel that many hotels share a similar problem. Your first impression is a beautiful lobby, and then you step into your room and get an immediate downer. Almost everyone has had this experience, haven’t they? That is what I dislike most about hotels, and it happened to me recently in a 5-star establishment. I was happy when I could finally go home. Places likes that are all show on the outside and a major disappointment inside, although I should say that we are very spoiled by our own places.
A lot of things are very important to me! However, compromise is always needed, for limitless spending is not good for a project – it makes it too “flashy” and that’s not something I want. You need to decide what your main focus is. Everything that guests touch – for example cutlery, crockery, door handles and light switches – is very important to me, as is using natural materials. I would never fit plastic window frames.
You say that “Crazy Hollmann” is “travel for the advanced”. How do you define “advanced travel”? This follows on from what I said before. Travel for the advanced starts when you no longer want to experience those hotel blues. We often feel like we’ve been taken for fools, for example when a massage costs 250 dollars. What exactly is the massage supposed to do that is worth so much? We want to offer a package where everything is just right. Admittedly, it is not cheap either, but it is fair. And things can happen at our places. Recently, I had to repair a gate in Trieste.
You always travel with your family. Why is travelling together better than travelling alone? Because it’s much more fun and because travel is always about sharing. I would start to cry if I had to watch a sunset in Sri Lanka on my own, and jumping in the sea in Trieste without my children is just not as much fun. If I cannot share these experiences, they are not worth experiencing. What are you “crazy” about? About my children and about my wife. And about my home, but home to me is Vienna, Trieste, Turracher Höhe, Sri Lanka and Paris.
Photos: Heldentheater / Hollmann Hotels & Apartments
100 % living
What are the “must dos” for visitors to these places?
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Issue No 03 | 2019
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UTMT RESORT SRI LANKA
HOLLMANN PARIS
HOLLMANN AM MEER, TRIESTE
HOLLMANN AM BERG TURRACHER HÖHE
Photos: Heldentheater / Hollmann Hotels & Apartments
HOLLMANN BELETAGE, VIENNA
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Issue No 03 | 2019
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James Bond actor Daniel Craig once selected the Design and Spa Hotel Bergland in Sölden as his personal retreat.
BERGLAND DESIGN- UND
hollywood in the hills
WELLNESSHOTEL SÖLDEN
ACTIVE RELAXATION True to the motto “active relaxation”, the hotel and surrounding area offer design and spa-loving guests a whole range of activities and options. After an “all you can dream of” breakfast, sports enthusiasts can spend a day in one of Austria’s largest winter sports resorts before heading to ice Q, the futuristic gourmet restaurant and filming location for the 007 blockbuster at Gaislachkogel. The spectacular
underground James Bond exhibition “007 ELEMENTS” opened right next door in the summer of 2018 – a must for all fans of the famous spy. Back at Hotel Bergland, head for the fifth floor to revive and re-energise in the 1700 m2 Sky Spa with panoramic views of the Nederkogel. The hay beds in the quiet room and cosy sauna are just some of the great places to relax here. Why not take a dip in the large indoor pool or heated outdoor whirlpool in Grander water, which also refreshes guests in the rest of the hotel. A new open-air swimming pool will add yet another highlight to the spa facilities on the roof terrace from summer 2020. After relaxing in the spa, you can head to one of the hotel’s own restaurants to finish recharging your batteries in style. The team led by head chef Stephan Muhr indulges their passion for local produce and authenticity across the two floors of the “black sheep” gourmet restaurant. The à-la-carte restaurant “Wine and Dine” with its open-view kitchen serves gourmet steak, fondue and raclette.
IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF 007 Want to know where the actor who plays the world’s most famous secret agent went to unwind after a hard day’s filming? Look no further than the James Bond Suite. Daniel Craig stayed in this exclusive suite and was clearly delighted with the excellent service at Hotel Bergland: “Daniel Craig personally thanked the competent member of housekeeping staff and the spa management with a handshake and a gift”, reveals Elisabeth Grüner. And while the latest 007 film has long since joined the ranks of Bond hits, a touch of Hollywood remains at Hotel Bergland …
AUSTRIA Ö T Z TA L / S Ö L D E N
86 1.700 m2 suites
Sky Spa
Photos: Christoph Schöch Photography / Anton Klocker
Shaken, not stirred! We all know how James Bond prefers his vodka martini. The cocktail of choice for actor Daniel Craig during the filming of “Spectre”, on the other hand, is top secret. “Our lips are sealed”, laughs Elisabeth Grüner, manager of the traditional Hotel Bergland in Sölden, which provided – literally and figuratively – high-quality accommodation for the British celebrity at 1368 metres. For as well as being “5-star”, the family-run hotel is also the first design hotel in the Ötztal. Elisabeth Grüner and her husband Sigi took over the 60-year-old Hotel Bergland from her parents in 1999, and in 2010, they demolished all the old structures in a record seven months, and rebuilt. The result is an exciting architectural achievement with buildings at different levels and angles and extensive grounds. Space was a priority for the owners. That also applied to the suites, which measure on average 43 m2 and are dominated by warm, earthy tones and natural materials. Comfort and cosiness are guaranteed with loden sofas, larch or pine furniture, and rocking chairs with sheepskin from the family’s own farm.
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Issue No 03 | 2019
NEW MEMBER SUBLIME C O M P O R TA C O U N T RY R E T R E AT
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Listen to the sea, breathe in the salty air and feel the breeze in your hair. On a small jetty located on an estuary, feel the wood under your feet, watch the waves dancing and listen to the fisherman at work.
& S PA
an uplifting feeling Comporta is a small Portuguese community on the Atlantic coast that borders the Reserva Natural do Estuário do Sado nature reserve, and is home to a unique little fishing port called Carrasqueira. Over two centuries ago, locals created a traditional anchorage system consisting of multiple wooden jetties on stilts (cais palafitico) that run in zig-zag patterns across the muddy marshes. The tides are particularly strong here – at low tide, the colourful fishing boats lie on the silt and wait to be launched, while at high tide, the water level rises and the fishermen can get to work. Reaching many metres out to sea, the jetties invite you to wander out to the end and experience the sheer contentment of being truly alone, at one with yourself and the world around you in perfect tranquility. You can also join the locals in enjoying the freshest fish and most delicious seafood you have ever tasted at one of the little restaurants alongside the beautifully painted or naturally weathered fishing huts. LIVING AMONG NATURE
Photos: Nelson Garrido
A short distance away, nestled between the sand dunes and surrounded by pines and cork oaks, vineyards, rice fields and white sandy beaches, lies Sublime Comporta. This 17-acre complex boasts 23 rooms and suites, 22 villas, a spa, three restaurants, a gym, a yoga and pilates room, outdoor and indoor swimming pools, a tennis court and a paddle court, all of which offer a friendly, welcoming atmosphere despite how spread out the facilities are. A key focus of the architecture and landscaping of the estate was sustainability, meaning the materials and techniques used create as little environmental impact as possible.
PORTUGAL Owners of Sublime Comporta Gonçalo Pessoa and Patrícia Trigo believe that sustainable investments of this kind represent a contribution to the region, to its future, to its history and to the local community. “We even built the villas around the existing trees so that we didn’t have to cut them down,” the two explain with a laugh. Heat energy is provided by solar panels, and the hotel is even self-sufficient in terms of having its own drinking water supply. PAYING HOMAGE TO CARRASQUEIRA The new Bio Pool Suites are reminiscent of the little fishing port of Carrasqueira, with architect José Alberto Charrua using traditional materials and techniques to create a feeling of natural minimalism combined with a cosy atmosphere. The fresh water of the biological pool is of course free of chemicals and can be
ALENTE JO / MUDA
accessed directly from the private terrace of the suite. The hotel’s permaculture organic garden is home to over 300 species of plants, including aromatic herbs, edible flowers and vegetables, all of which are cultivated for the exclusive use of the hotel restaurants and the Sublime Spa. In the hotel’s orchard, you will also discover a number of traditional regional and Portuguese citrus fruits. Guests at Sublime Comporta will experience true luxury and enjoy life at a slower pace – simply sublime, just as the hotel name promises.
90 suites
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Bio Pool
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Issue No 03 | 2019
GRADONNA ****S M O U N TA I N
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a natural spectacle
RESORT CHALETS & HOTEL AUSTRIA EAST TYROL / KALS AM GROSSGLOCKNER
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rooms in the hotel
chalets
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Photos: @fotoperauer / @guentheregger
fantastic natural spectacle
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Issue No 03 | 2019
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Gradonna – the very name sounds like a force of nature. In fact, it is a 4-star superior resort named after a nearby prehistoric archaeological site.
SKI IN, SKI OUT
Photos: @fotoperauer / @guentheregger
“Party animals be warned, this is not the place for you”, says a smiling Martha Schultz, co-owner of the Schultz Group, which runs the Gradonna and a number of other properties and facilities. That is how it should be, for the greatest spectacle is the breathtaking scenery that guests at the Gradonna Mountain Resort in Kals am Großglockner can enjoy. What you might call an Alpine amphitheatre has been created at an altitude of over 1300 m, and the most engrossing drama to unfold here is that of nature itself. The hotel and chalets are laid out like one of the region’s typical hamlets, and the timber and glass structures fit in perfectly with the high Alpine surroundings. “I would almost go so far as to say that this location and this architecture are unique in the Alps”, says a proud Martha Schultz.
A perfect location right beside the downhill run for a genuine “ski in, ski out” experience. You are just one push of your ski poles away from a great day’s skiing. Guests in the chalets can watch the first skiers in the morning gliding down the slopes. The Großglockner Kals-Matrei ski resort is the largest in East Tyrol and has 15 cable cars and lifts and a large number of pistes. It has something for everyone – from endless pistes to small freeride paradises. Ski passes can be obtained from the reception, and the hotel also has its own ski hire and sports shop.
Culinary delights are not far to seek either. Gault-Millau head chef Michael Karl serves East Tyrol specialities with Mediterranean touches – against the backdrop of Hohe Tauern National Park. A responsible approach to nature and its produce and materials is key not just in the kitchen, but throughout the hotel. For example, guests will find the Gradonna’s own vegan cosmetic brand, MAGDALENA’S, produced in Tyrol, in both the spa and the bedrooms. “We create natural beauty using natural ingredients only. We harness the power of nature. Skin is our body’s largest organ and we need to take care of it. Our MAGDALENA’S products do exactly that: they preserve and protect the natural beauty of your skin”, Martha Schultz explains.
For winter skiing or a great spa break, with the family or as a couple, the Gradonna offers a perfect and authentic experience. The only question that remains is how to secure the best seat in the house. That might be the window seats in the bedrooms, where you can curl up in the morning or evening and let your gaze and mind wander into the distance. Or it might be the cosy relaxation areas in the spa with their huge windows looking out onto a mountain panorama. Then there’s the outdoor pool or the lawn beside the natural bathing pool ... In short, no easy decision!
THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
STYLE
m o t o r Photo: shutterstock.com, Jacob Boomsma
C I T Y Detroit.
Once the symbol of the American automotive industry with the music of “Motown” and a flourishing economy, Detroit experienced surely the hardest fall of them all in 2013: the city officially went bankrupt, violent crime hogged
the headlines and there was a “white flight” from town. Today, the city is happily recovering and returning to its former coolness. The photo shows the world’s largest abandoned factory, the Packard Plant. It was designed as a sign
of success and hard work by Albert Kahn, the American architect of German extraction who was behind countless buildings in Detroit. Nature is now reclaiming the site and creating something new.
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
tick
tock
Photo: Nicole Franzen
Detroit is back! Leading the way is Shinola. Alongside watches and beautiful lifestyle products, the brand has now opened its first “Shinola� hotel.
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
STYLE TEXT BY NINA PREHOFER
This city has experienced a lot – probably all the highs and lows you could imagine. So the new spirit that has recently returned is all the more encouraging, and a promising sign for the future. The first Shinola Hotel, opened this year in downtown Detroit, could be taken as a symbol of this renewal. Launched in 2011 as a watchmaker, the company rapidly became a luxury design brand with an unshakeable commitment to creating things that last. The portfolio of the Detroit-based business includes everything from watches and leather goods to jewellery and audio products. What all products share is a focus on quality and a passion for producing wonderful experiences for the wearer. And that was behind the idea for a hotel. A hotel that was to bring together all Shinola’s expertise in quality, workmanship, people and attention to detail. That the hotel had to be in Detroit was clear from the outset, and it was to be a place that not only welcomed visitors from elsewhere but was also for local residents; somewhere they could experience the world of design made in Detroit. Indeed, the Shinola rapidly became the city’s “living room”. Small wonder, located as it is in the heart of the historical Woodward shopping district and with its great views inside and out.
“It is about the community and the people.”
Photos: Nicole Franzen
Daniel Cadell is the Shinola’s creative director. To him, the project was not just about showing how the world of Shinola looks, feels and smells; it was also about community and people. About how people connect with each other. He finds hotels hugely exciting because they are about escapism, luxury and comfort. All this is reflected in the hotel’s interior. This is design you feel can only come from the USA – absolute perfection, but not flat or characterless. Nostalgic, yet modern. Fantastic materials and mattresses made in Michigan, and woodwork from the firm just down the road. Colour also plays a huge role. The rooms are spacious and every last detail down to the inside of the wardrobe is just right. You can order almost anything from the “menu” in the room – from a 6-dollar water to a 1500-dollar Bluetooth speaker. The Shinola speaker can, of course, also be tested in your room. A well-stocked minibar with sweet and salty snacks practically cries “Go crazy on me!”
GOOD NEIGHBORHOOD Detroit has amazing architecture with breathtaking features. The Shinola is a successful combination of past and future. It is housed in existing buildings that have been revitalised and returned to their former glory. The bar was given a glossy seventies look with lovely rounded edges in the woodwork. Delicious Italian cuisine is served in the restaurant, “San Morello”. The urban neighbourhood restaurant run by chef Andrew Carmellini offers wonderful, authentic dishes and home-made pasta using local and seasonal produce. The Shinola Hotel has brought a host of small businesses back to the area that are well worth a visit – whether you come from the suburbs or are in Detroit for the first time. Detroit is back! shinolahotel.com
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
design core detroit The Form&Seek design studio led by Bilge Nur Saltik specialises in newly developed techniques and modern craftsmanship. Great attention is paid to workmanship and materials – and this approach produces functional and playful objects.
What is the link between your design and Detroit? We are new on the Detroit design scene. I was once constantly on the move, but recently decided to move here permanently. This raw, comeback city of Detroit harbours a whole lot of creativity and it is inspiring to be a part of that. “Form&Seek” has always been about the process and about celebrating the story behind the object. Finding designers and doers in the city who thought like us made the decision an easy one. An object by you, the “OP-vase”, is part of the World Wide Things Collection. What is special about it?
F O R M & S E E K
Where in Detroit do you find inspiration? There are examples of beautiful architecture right across the city. Even if the residents or functions have changed during the years of crisis, those buildings remain strong in all their glamour. I like discovering new corners of the city each day. Your café recommendation? My new favourite is the Ochre Bakery (ochrebakery.com) for coffee and good cakes. I also love a casual drink at Shipping Co. (detroitshippingcompany.com) when the sun is shining. formandseek.com
Photos: Form&Seek
The vase was produced by hand in collaboration with Turkish artisans in Istanbul. I wanted to design an unusual object that brought a bit of surprise into our daily life. This series is part of a larger series entitled “OP-jects” (optical objects). Capsule shapes are designed to create the impression of a bouquet with just one flower through optical distortion by multiplying the colourful petals inside the domed vase. The kaleidoscopic effect of the glass magnifies its contents and gives the illusion of multiple abstract plants. The collection consists of three vases of different sizes, each with its own individual pattern in thick, hand-blown glass and shaped with precision to produce the desired effect. Change your perspective on the vase and the shape of the individual flower becomes a bouquet but with a single, congruent shape remaining.
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
STYLE
Congratulations! The USA now has its very first UNESCO City of Design. To mark the occasion, September was designated the first Month of Design with more than 145 participants and over 55 events. A number of designers in the city are part of the World Wide Things Collection (WWTC), which now includes objects from Form&Seek and Aratani Fay. “Detroit is a city currently experiencing many changes”, says Olga Stella, Executive Director of Design Core Detroit. “The development of places, systems and products that allow all residents to be a part of revitalisation means that designers can become a driving force in the city.” That is why the Month of Design organised talks, exhibitions, workshops and open studios right across Detroit. THE Stylemate spoke to the three designers Bilge Nur Saltik, Ayako Aratani and Evan Fay.
The design studio Aratani . Fay was set up by Ayako Aratani and Evan Fay. They work as independent designers but share a studio, exhibit together and also collaborate on joint projects. Their work focuses on intuitive design methods for the creation of artistic items for everyday use.
The “Lawless Stool” and the “Click-Clock” are part of the WWTC. Tell me more about them.
A RATA N I . FAY
What is the link between your design and Detroit? The environment in Detroit gives us the freedom to create everything we want. Our design reflects the post-industrial society that surrounds us and is an opportunity to translate and express a poetic moment for our changing society.
The “Lawless” series by Evan Fay plays with the irregularities of the handmade, with a focus on intuitive design methods and spontaneous shapes. To retain a balance between metaphor and function, each piece is rhythmically connected and this allows it to grow. Every object follows the principle of “beauty in chaos” within a structured landscape, generating striking dialogue. The discovery of a poetic moment in the midst of dystopia can be an opportunity to celebrate new perspectives in design. The “Click-Clock” by Ayako Aratani is a timepiece in stained porcelain. Softly sculpted lines gently hint at the time of day. Shadows on the surface change with the passage of sunlight and the silent movement peacefully disperses the clamour of daily life. What inspires you in Detroit? The Cranbrook Academy of Art and Belle Island, a park on an island in the Detroit River. Your café recommendation? The Alley Cat Café (alleycatcafepontiac.com) and Sister Pie (sisterpie.com).
Photos: Aratani · Fay
aratanifay.com
Find every object part of the World Wide Things Collection on designcities.net/wwtc/
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
STYLE
limitless 01
30 years after the fall of the Berlin Wall, the fashion borders have also collapsed: Berlin has long been seen as Germany’s creative centre and has established an international reputation as a fashion capital. THE Stylemate knows where to find the city’s hippest concept stores and most exciting labels.
Andreas Murkudis’ Store 81 Potsdamer Straße 81 10785 Berlin
02 VooStore Oranienstraße 24 10999 Berlin
03 Chelsea Farmers Club Schlüterstraße 49 10629 Berlin
04 Das Neue Schwarz Mulackstraße 38 10119 Berlin
05 Julia Leifert Mulackstraße 22 10119 Berlin
06 Nobi Talai Auguststraße 75 10117 Berlin
07 Richert Beil Rethelstraße 5 12435 Berlin
08 William Fan Große Hamburger Straße 25 10115 Berlin
09 Zazi Vintage Max-Beer-Straße 31 10119 Berlin
10 Sabrina Dehoff Auguststraße 26A 10117 Berlin
11 Michael Sontag Muskauer Straße 41 10997 Berlin
12 Dawid Tomaszewski Richard-Wagner-Straße 25 10585 Berlin
TEXT BY NORA PALZENBERGER
fashion
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B E R L I N
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FERNSEHTURM
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SPREE
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BRANDENBURGER TOR
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SIEGESSÄULE
Illustration: VON K Brand Design
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City Guide: Cut out, fold and take to Berlin
Issue No 03 | 2019
ANDREAS MURKUDIS’
VO O S T O R E
STORE 81
01
From director of the Museum der Dinge (Museum of Things) to concept store owner: Andreas Murkudis started out with a museum shop before opening his first store off a back court in Berlin-Mitte in 2003. In 2011, the passionate collector of beautiful objects finally moved to Potsdamer Straße, where he set up his Store 81 in the former printing shop of the Berlin “Tagesspiegel” newspaper. A spacious shop reminiscent of a gallery allows visitors to engage with the objects – selected personally by the proprietor – and come to appreciate them as Murkudis does. His store selection does not follow trends; it is born instead of his love of fashion and design and his commitment to a combination of aesthetic value, excellent quality and durability.
CHELSEA
DA S N E U E
FA R M E R S C L U B
S C H WA R Z
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Off a courtyard in Oranienstraße in the centre of Kreuzberg, Berlin’s melting pot, is one of the capital’s very first concept stores. The VooStore was opened by the Müjdeci brothers in 2010 and is now one of the trendiest shopping locations in the city. A 300 m2 store in a former metal workshop houses carefully curated designer items from quality labels such as Jil Sander, Dries van Noten and Acne Studios alongside books, magazines and accessories. Design fans are also in for a culinary treat: the in-store minimalist Companion Coffee serves coffee specialities from all over Europe as well as excellent tea and fresh baking. vooberlin.com
andreasmurkudis.com
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Anyone who has chosen Prince Charles with his Brit-chic, Vicco von Bühlow in his smoking jackets or Charles Aznavour in his white 1968 Gucci loafers as their fashion role models will feel at home in the Chelsea Farmers Club. The store was established in 2004 by the trained men’s tailor, TV producer and modern gentleman Christoph Tophinke. Lovers of English formal dress will find smoking jackets complete with hand-crocheted buttonholes, tweed suits, velvet loafers and colourful kneelength socks – all produced in-house. And because Tophinke believes there are even more important things than fashion, customers, visitors and friends can also relax with a fine gin and sometimes even food from the Italian next door in the store’s very own bar.
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THE Stylemate
Vintage is the new black: following seven successful years on Vienna’s club scene as DJane, Tanya Bednar opened a vintage shop in Berlin in 2010 from a pure love of rare fashion gems. “This is about recycling – I think it’s good to force goods to circulate” is how the adopted Berliner explains what motivated her. “I only accept designer goods, everything is in excellent condition and is also cleaned and professionally stored by us.” The store, which also has a Vienna branch since 2015, offers a select range of rare second-hand pieces from designers such as Helmut Lang, Vivienne Westwood, Raf Simons and Comme des Garçons. An insider tip for fashion-lovers, collectors and stylists. dasneueschwarz.de
NOBI
RICHERT
WILLIAM
LEIFERT
TA L A I
BEIL
FA N
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The designer: Julia Leifert started to design and produce fashion while she was still studying for her law degree. She was so successful that, after graduating, she went straight to AMD Akademie Mode & Design in Berlin to study fashion. The designer leads a vegan lifestyle and discovered a gap on the fashion market: a combination of ethics and aesthetics. The label: Julia Leifert set up her own label in 2014 after a prolonged period in New York. The label was originally called Philomena Zanetti. She uses the very best ecological materials and local production capacity for her elegant creations. The passion: Julia Leifert represents a generation with high ethical standards and clear values. “In times of uncertainty, inhumanity and climate change, transparency and authenticity are the most valuable things we have.”
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The designer: Nobieh Talaei was born in Tehran and arrived in Berlin at the age of eleven. In 2003, she completed her design degree at Berlin’s Esmod fashion academy and then worked for over ten years in merchandising and sales at leading international labels. The label: Nobi Talai is a simplified version of the founder’s name. The Berlin-based designer rapidly became a rising star of the German fashion world with the label she launched in 2015. Her clean designs are true to the motto “less is more” and are inspired by the Bauhaus style, Neue Sachlichkeit and Scandinavian design from the 1950s. The passion: Nobieh Talaei inherited her love of fashion from her grandmother, a dressmaker descended from Persian nomads. nobitalai.com
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The designer: Work together, live together: the Berlin designer duo Richert Beil, who are partners in both senses of the word, prove that this combination can absolutely work. Jale Richert and Michele Beil met in 2009 at Berlin’s fashion academy Esmod. Five years later, they launched their joint label. The label: Richert Beil designs high-quality woollen clothing in a clear, individual style using resources available in Germany or neighbouring countries. The passion: For their autumn/winter collection “Alter Ego”, the designer couple spent three years exploring the potential of the art of traditional German costumes. The result: a combination of the signature of traditional dress with the label’s timeless design. richertbeil.com
julialeifert.com
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The designer: William Fan’s Hong Kong-born parents were running a Chinese restaurant in Hanover when they had the future designer in 1987. Fan studied in Arnheim in the Netherlands and at the Kunsthochschule Weißensee Berlin college of art, before launching his own label in 2015. The label: William Fan’s designs are easy to recognise: Asian inspiration and European touches in imaginative yet purist designs. Many of his creations are already classics for the label. The passion: Fan has an amazing business sense. He was eager to gain early practical experience and between his Bachelor and Master’s degree, he spent time with Alexander McQueen in London and his sister in Hamburg, who runs a bag label. Creating is the obsession of the young German-Chinese designer. He wants to design “a whole universe” and not just fashion. williamfan.com
ZAZI V I N TA G E
SABRINA
MICHAEL
DEHOFF
S O N TA G DAW I D TOMASZEWSKI
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The designer: Jeanne de Kroon is the daughter of a professor of art history and a documentary film-maker and grew up in Holland. She tore up her plans to study law on her first day at university and headed to Paris as a street musician, where she was then discovered as a model. On her travels in Nepal, Pakistan and India, she became aware of the unethical aspects of the fashion industry. The label: In 2016, Jeanne de Kroon set up Zazi Vintage from her student flat in Neukölln. Her colourful cloths in vintage materials, for example silk from Uzbekistan, are produced by hand in India. Each item is unique and improves the living conditions of the seamstresses. The passion: De Kroon – who is just 25 years old – repeatedly stresses that she wants to build a bridge between the fashion world and development aid. Her commitment to helping women in developing countries has now led to a successful business.
The designer: You might think that this jewellery designer, famous far beyond Berlin, was a trained goldsmith. You would be wrong. Sabrina Dehoff studied fashion design at Lette-Verein in Berlin and at the Royal College of Arts in London. She went on to work as a design assistant at the Paris labels Guy Laroche and Lanvin before co-founding the fashion agency “vonRot” in Berlin. The label: In 2006, Sabrina Dehoff launched her eponymous label with the “Little Helpers” collection. She became famous with colourful cord bracelets, but a lot has changed since: in 2009, she set up her own online shop, and her first flagship store was opened in Berlin in 2010. Celebrity wearers of her jewellery include stars such as Beyoncé, Halle Berry and Charlize Theron. The passion: The former fashion designer has great attention to detail and worked a lot with embroidery during her time with Alber Elbaz. This “obsession with small touches” ultimately took her into jewellery.
zazi-vintage.com
sabrinadehoff.com
The designer: Bavarian-born Michael Sontag has always been creative. As a child, he loved crafts and drawing. Following his degree at Kunsthochschule Weißensee Berlin college of art and initial practical experience with renowned designers including Kenzo and Givenchy, he took up his studies again at the École Nationale Superieure des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. The label: Sontag’s first collection was launched in 2009 – the year he set up the label – at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in Berlin. It was praised by the famous fashion critic Suzy Menkes in the International Herald Tribune as “promising”. His designs are created on dressmaker’s dummies rather than on paper, and are notable for beautifully draped and flowing fabric. The passion: Sontag is constantly developing his collections. He distances himself from trends and age limits and describes his work as a single, consistent whole. The “master of draping” sees his fashion as “valuable” for everyday life and leaves wearers plenty of scope for interpretation and individual touches. michaelsontag.com
The designer: Dawid Tomaszewski’s career has been shaped by major names from the fashion industry. After a degree in fashion at the London College of Fashion, the Polish-born designer moved to the Berlin University of the Arts under Vivienne Westwood. He had internships with Sonia Rykiel and Alexis Marbille before becoming design assistant to Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons in Tokyo. The label: Avant-garde design plus great practical expertise and a huge attention to detail have made this label, established in 2009, a fixture on the fashion scene. The passion: In 2019, the German designer is celebrating the ten-year anniversary of his label and can count celebrities such as Iris Berben, Ursula Karven and Karolina Kurkova among the fans of his “new couture”. dawidtomaszewski.com
Photos: Thomas Meyer/Ostkreuz, @VooStore, Chelsea Farmers Club, Das Neue Schwarz, Anna Daki, Getty Images for MBFW, Fiona Dinkelbach, Stefan Dotter, Sabrina Dehoff, Fredrik Altinell, Andreas Rentz_gettyentertainment, PR
JULIA
L A B E L S
chelseafarmersclub.de
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THE Stylemate Issue No 03 | 2019
STYLE
JULIA HIMBURG is the general manager of Hotel Provocateur in Berlin-Charlottenburg. Like the Roomers Hotels and the Bristol in Frankfurt, the Provocateur is part of Micky Rosen’s and Alex Urseanu’s Gekko Group.
At Hotel Provocateur, guests can live unfettered by norms and rigid expectations, and simply forget time and all their responsibilities. The general manager, Julia Himburg, spoke to us about her shamelessly good hotel.
provoca-
What is so provocative about the Hotel Provocateur?
Is that freedom one of the things people love about the Bohemian lifestyle?
I believe the interior and the staff speak for themselves. Anyone who has been here knows what I mean.
Yes, people wanted and were able to be themselves without any restrictions. That was important to people back then, and is still important today. I believe that if you are accepted as you are, you are so much freer and make so much more of what you have. The more colourful and more authentic my team, the more unique my hotel.
What is the concept behind the hotel? We are a small boutique hotel with 58 rooms and suites. A special part of our style is the burlesque, inspired by Parisian flair of the 1920s. This was the period post-First World War when the economy was on the up and, for the first time in a long time, people were able to experience something approaching pleasure. They wanted to party and have a good time. That is the feeling we want to give our guests: carefree enjoyment. Bohemian life not just in Paris but also in the Berlin of the 1920s is legendary. Why? The Bohemian lifestyle was not bound by norm or convention – it was all about being yourself; being authentic. In other words not hiding or forgetting who you really were. It was natural and genuine.
Does “everyone can be happy in their own way” also apply to guests? Of course! That is what makes our hotel so special: being able to live the way you want. Life here is definitely a little different. The interior design was created by the Amsterdam designer Saar Zafrir. Through what colours, shapes and materials has he interpreted your lifestyle? A lot of velvet, red, black and gold. This means a cosy yet striking ambiance. The Woody Allen film “Midnight in Paris” and the Hotel Costes in Paris were an inspiration to us. I don’t recall “Midnight in Paris” being particularly provocative.
GENERAL MANAGER Julia Himburg
Photos: Gekko Group / Provocateur
How is this reflected in the hotel? Certain standards of work – to which our staff adhere – of course apply. Our staff do, however, have a lot of freedom. There are no rules about hairstyles or nail polish. Not only do we accept each individual character, we seek to involve every individual in our concept. To us, employing real people with personality rather than puppets is in itself a form of creativity. Our staff shape our product and give colour and life to the concept.
The main character, Gil Pender, travels through time to 1920s Paris. There was a bar where everyone met – Hemingway, Dalí ... the list goes on – and it was the idea behind the interior design concept: that philosophy of celebrating life and living it to its full. We have created a place that reflects this time travel. Of course, there is also a touch of Berlin sophistication. Fundamentally, however, we are a meeting place for fascinating people, and somewhere you can be undisturbed and escape from the outside world. There is no concept of time here. And that means more freedom. What are your favourite touches in the hotel? In our old building, the original lift from 1912 is still in operation. I think that’s my absolute favourite feature.
Your bar was named the 2019 “Hotel Bar of the Year”. What is special about it? Apart from the interior and the ambiance, our superb team who create a new menu with their very own drinks each year. We have one of the most innovative bar teams in the German-speaking world. The last bar menu was based on famous personalities from the 1920s. The current menu centres on traditional spirits. For example, we work with Korn (grain schnapps), which is not a familiar on-trend drink. Our bar menu is like a magazine: it is also the place to come for great tips on Berlin and our hotel. The atmosphere? Really relaxed. When we close the curtains, you lose all sense of time. Suddenly, it’s four in the morning! We always have just the right background music with a great DJ.
teur In the kitchen of the “Golden Phoenix”, The Duc Ngo works his magic. Style: Paris meets China? That’s right, we have a Franco-Chinese concept that combines traditional Chinese cuisine with French flavours and touches. Our head chef’s grandmother was Chinese, and he offers a whole new take on her recipes. Fine dining with us refers to the food – there is nothing rigidly formal about the experience. One more question: I have heard rumours of “provocateur mode” ... They might be true, but I can’t reveal more here. You will just have to find out for yourself! provocateur-hotel.com
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STYLE
FRIEDRICH LIECHTENSTEIN is an actor, musician and entertainer. He grew up in what was then Stalinstadt, Eisenhüttenstadt, in the GDR. Friedrich Liechtenstein now lives in Berlin. With Arnold Kasar and Sebastian Borkowski, he is part of the Friedrich Liechtenstein Trio, whose concerts
There is a lot you could say about borders, boundaries, barriers and limits. Tree boundaries, boundless love and things like that. Yet two phenomena at the edges of my old home are what immediately come to mind, and I would like to tell you about them.
1 . P L AC E The Fürst-Pückler-Park in Bad Muskau at the European border between Poland and Germany.
Fürst Pückler was a chancer. His stories, his parks and his conceptual life are nothing if not entertaining. I have no idea how much damage he caused, but his desire to design was huge. His wife also seems to have been a part of that work. We all know that history is written by the victors. Not even people who were closely involved can tell us how things really were. The park is there. And we can explore it; there is no border dividing it. It is a beautiful place, the paths are fun, almost absurd, and the sound of the water, the tree patterns, everything is lovely. I found myself checking where the grass is greener – in Poland or in Germany. When the GDR still existed, the grass was greener in West Germany, but there were also sections of wall with no grass at all.
2 . P L AC E The hermitage on the shores of Potsdam’s Jungfernsee lake on the former East-West Germany border.
The hermitage in Potsdam was in the way when they built the wall. The trees were felled, the building removed and the area sprayed with herbicide to prevent growth. After the wall came down, the hermitage was reconstructed. I have only seen it from a boat, and been told its history by an academic sitting beside me. Hermits are
combine jazz, easy listening and electronic music and “delight and enchant”. He is a regular on the Tele 5 TV channel in humorous but artistic short films such as “Festival der Liebe” and “Friedrichs Knicks für Knigge”.
escapists. That makes an afternoon nap in the hermitage a wonderful escape from the world. Maybe that will happen one day. The wall has gone and the hermitage is back. There are borders, and there are borders that disappear. Some borders are invisible. Oceans have borders, limits. The Atlantic, for example, is not the Mediterranean. Strolling through Fürst Pückler’s borderless park, dreaming oneself away into a magnificently furnished, windowless hermitage. What a wonderful way to spend your time. I appreciate a Europe without borders and a reunited Germany. I am one of the lucky ones who gets to experience all this.
Photos: Porträt © Ralph Anderl / Pückler Park: Kora27 [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)] / Eremitage: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Eremitage_im_Neuen_Garten.jpg, karstenknuth [Attribution]
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