The Working Waterfront - October 2021

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News from Maine’s Island and Coastal Communities

THE WORKING

volume 35, № 8

published by the island institute

Maine’s last seafood cannery

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october 2021 n free circulation: 50,000

workingwaterfront.com

HEALTHY HAUL —

Bar Harbor Foods exports Downeast flavors to the world Story by Sarah Craighead Dedmon Photos by Leslie Bowman

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ish canneries once dotted the coast of Maine, jutting off of smalltown shorelines, and employing thousands of Mainers for more than a century. At the sardine industry’s height, more than 50 canneries were in operation at the same time. Today, there is only one. Bar Harbor Foods runs Maine’s last cannery on Holmes Bay in Whiting, population 481. Operating in a structure more than 100 years old, Bar Harbor still sells sardines, but in a very modern way—think clear-lidded cans, extra virgin olive oil—and with an extremely modern supply chain. Bar Harbor’s lobster comes from Maine, its clams come from the mid-Atlantic, and its sardines? Latvia.

“We have gone international in terms of some sourcing,” says Bar Harbor Foods Managing Director Denis Minihane, likening the business model to another Maine company, L.L. Bean. “Some of L.L. Bean’s manufacturing is overseas, but their brainpower and design and development remain in Maine,” he says. In Bar Harbor’s case, raw materials may come from the Gulf of Maine or the Baltic Sea, but everything is designed and distributed from rural Whiting, a coastal Washington County village located 15 miles from Canada, and 100 miles from the nearest interstate highway. The rural location hasn’t hurt business. In fact, says Minihane, it has enhanced its brand appeal, especially with millennial customers. “They like the story,” he says. “They like it to be as near as you can be to the sea, produced in a humble facility,

From left, Tim Caldwell, Neil Kirby, and Lucky Skidgell talk at the Belfast waterfront. Barrels of pogies, often used for lobster bait, are visible in the foreground. PHOTO: TOM GROENING

without the additives and preservatives, the same way they’re willing to pay more for craft beer and enjoy the value of where it’s being produced.” Though the cannery is almost 100 miles from its namesake Bar Harbor, the logo and brand are a vestige of a

previous owner, Michael Cote, who purchased the original A.M. Look Canning Company in 2003. The name equals instant brand recognition. “Everyone knows Bar Harbor,” says Minihane, adding that the company continued on page 4

Feds limit lobstering to protect right whales NMFS imposes seasonal ban on 967-square-miles By Laurie Schreiber

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long-anticipated ruling by the National Marine Fisheries Service aimed at protecting the endangered North Atlantic right whale was issued Aug. 30. The ruling impacts Maine’s signature fishery on several fronts.

The key components mean lobster fishermen with federal permits can no longer set traps using vertical buoy lines from October to January in a 967-square-mile area of fishing grounds in the Gulf of Maine. But a new federal rule will allow those fishermen to apply for permits to use “ropeless” gear.

NON-PROFIT ORG. U.S. POSTAGE PAID PORTLAND, ME 04101 PERMIT NO. 454

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An estimated 62 fishermen from The regulations place “an unwarStonington to Boothbay Harbor are ranted burden on the Maine lobster expected to be affected by the closure. fishery,” the Maine Lobstermen’s The National Marine Fisheries Association said in a statement. Service is charged with managing fishThe focus of the rule is on North eries in federal waters. Atlantic right whales because of their The rule is part of the status as a critically federal Atlantic Large endangered species, with Whale Take Reduction only an estimated 368 left An estimated 62 in the world. Plan, first implemented in 1997 by a federally The goal is to reduce or fishermen from convened Atlantic Large eliminate the number of Stonington to Whale Take Reduction vertical lines the whales Team. It has been modified Boothbay Harbor might encounter along several times since then. their migration routes. are expected to The plan aims to The rule also: comply with the Marine be affected by the • Closes other offshore Mammal Protection waters off Massachusetts closure. Act and the Endangered to fishing at certain times Species Act to reduce of year to reduce buoy fishing gear entanglement lines when and where and vessel strikes on whales throughout right whales are present. However, fishtheir range in the North Atlantic. ermen would be able to fish in the areas Maine’s largest lobster industry asso- using ropeless gear. ciation criticized the rule as lacking scientific justification. continued on page 3


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