Explore sognefjord issuu by Skald forlag

ingr id l oft esn es finnl oftesnes l oftesn es(photos) (foto) &&finn

opplev explore sognefjorden sognefjord Ein reiseguide til Noregs A Travel Guide to the Heart ofhjarte Norway

Ein reiseguide A Travel Guide to til Noregs the Heart hjarte of Norway

denne aLLsIdIge reiseguiden er ei praktisk handbok This comprehensive travel guide is a practical handbook som viser deg vegen til Noregs hjarte. Ei fyldig blanding leading you on your way to the heart of Norway. An expanav bilete, informative tekstar og kart vil gi deg inspi sive mix of photographs, informative texts and maps will rasjon til å oppleve dei ulike kommunane langs denne inspire you to visit the various districts along this unique unike fjorden, og du vil bli kjent med eit breitt utval av fjord, as we present a wide range of cultural and natural kultur og naturopplevingar – frå historiske attraksjonar landscapes – from historical attractions and local cuisine to og lokalmat til fotturar, aktivitetar og moderne friluftsliv. hikes, activities and modern outdoor sports. Dette er boka for deg som vil oppdage Noregs hjarte, This is the the first and only guide book to cover og eit must for alle som bur her! all the attractions in the vast area along Sognefjord.

explore opplev sognefjord sognefjorden

Join med us on an journey along Sognefjord, the Bli påadventurous ei rik reise langs Sognefjorden, longest and deepest fjord in the world, stretching from the frå kysten i vest til Jotunheimen i aust. Norwegian coast in the West to Jotunheimen in the East.

ingrid loftesnes & finn loftesnes (foto)

I n grI d LLoftesn 1950) er Sogndal og oftesnes es (f. (1950–) is frå from Sogndal har lang reiselivsbransjen. Sidan and has aerfaring wealth ofinnan experience within the field of 1970 har having ho arbeidd med produktutvikling og tourism, worked on the development and marknadsføring av reiselivsprodukt. I 1989 tok marketing of tourism since 1970. In 1989, she was ho over som reiselivssjef i Sogndal, og vart dagleg appointed Director of Tourism in Sogndal, Manleiar for Sogn ogof Fjordane og leiarand for aging Director Sogn & Reiselivsråd Fjordane Tourism regionssamarbeidet innan reiselivwithin i Sogn.Tourism Head of Regional Co-operation in the district of Sogn. fI n n L oftesn es (f. 1947) er anerkjent natur fotograf. I ei årrekkje(1947–) har han natur og fInn Loftesnes is fotografert a renowned nature landskap på Vestlandet og illustrated levert biletenumerous til utalege photographer, who has bøker Han the har years, dessutan books og andpublikasjonar. publications over withfoto his grafert presentasjonar og produsert store imagestil ofulike the nature and landscapes of Western lysbileteprogram til Breheimsenteret i Jostedalen Norway. He has also supplied photographs for a og Norsk i Geiranger. variety ofFjordsenter presentations and has produced major slide shows for the Breheim Centre in Jostedalen and the Norwegian Fjord Centre in Geiranger.

I S B N 9 7 8 - 8 2 - 7 9 5 9 - 1 98 86 - 36

omslag ferdig.indd 1-5

24.09.12 12:32

map: Tore Tonning, Mesterkart graphic design: Øystein Vidnes Fonts: Novel Pro, by Christoph Dunst & Jannon Sans, by František Štorm paper: Arctic Volume Highwhite 130 g printing and binding: ednas print Printed in Slovenia

in gr id lo F t es n e s & Fi n n lo Ft es n es ( p h ot o)

explore SogneFjord A Travel Guide to the Heart of Norway Translated by angela shury-smith

skald 2013

Contents 6

Welcome to Sognefjord! Sognefjord

5 Dingja

11 17

e x p lore sog n e fj ord

Stave Churches &

6 Gulen Museum of Fishing &

Farming

7 Sellevåg Clog Factory

8Memorial to Henrik Wergeland

other Historic Churches

9Opdal School Museum

Jostedalsbreen Glacier (487 km2)

0Gulen Diving Centre

Jotunheimen (1155 km2)

� Wartime Ruines between

Breheimen (1691 km2)

National Tourist Routes

� Mid-Takle Mill

Agriculture & Food

�Coastal Safari in Gulen

� North Sea Trail in Eivindvik

�trip: Eivindvik–Dingja

Solund

Fallebø and Rutledal

1Utvær North Sea Trail

2Boat trip to Utvær

3 Gåsvær Island

1 Norwegian Millstone Centre

4 Island to Island in North Solund

2 Mills in Skor

5 Island Hopping

3 Cycle Trip along The Postal Route

6Kayaking amongst the Islands

4 Havørn Memorial

7Exploring the Islands by Bike

5 The Stone Crosses

8Råkeneset

6 Memorial to Harald Risnes

9Ytre Sula North Sea Trail

7 Sea Fishing

0Ramnenipa

8 trip: Lihesten

� Lågøystolane

� tur: Pollatinden

Gulen

Hyllestad

Høyanger

101

1 Stølsheimen

104

2 Massnes Wildlife Museum

105

1St0ne Crosses in Eivindvik

3 Høyanger Industrial Museum

105

2Gulatinget Millennium Site

4 Hydro Electrical Museum

106

3Memorial in Eivindvik

5 Parken

106

4 Skjerjehamn

6 Høyanger Baths

107

7 Tell Teigen Monument

107

6Leikanger Church

8 Trallebana Cable Car

109

7Cultural Trail: Hella–

9 Trappeløpet Race

109

Eitorn–Skoparsete

141

0 Måren

109

8Detour from Hella

142

� Memorial to Ole Elias Holck

111

9trip: Hestfjellet

144

� Ytredalen Stone Bridge

112

� Ferdamannen

112

� trip: Åkrenipa

114 117

147

1 Sogndalsfjøra

150

2 12th Century Runestone

151

3 Fosshaugane

151

1 Kviknes Hotel

120

4 Sognahallen

151

2 Statue of King Bele

122

5 Sogndal kulturhus

152

3 Village of Art

123

6 Meieriet

152

4 St. Olaf ’s Church

125

7 Gjest Baardsen Statue

152

5 The Cider House

125

8 The Old King's Route

153

6 Museum of Norwegian Tourism

125

9 Sogndal Ski Centre

153

7 Sognefjord Aquarium

125

0 Anestølen

154

8 The Golden House

126

� Bratt moro

154

9 Haukaas Enamel Workshop

127

� Fjærland

154

0 Lunde Arboretum

127

� The Norwegian Booktown

157

� Fjærlandsfjord

127

� Bøyaøyri Bird Sanctuary

158

� Kvamsøy Island

129

� Norwegian Glacier Museum

158

� trip: Raudmelen

130

� Bøyabreen Glacier &

Leikanger

133

Supphellebreen Glacier

159

� Fjærland Kayak & Glacier

160

1Kvinnafossen Waterfall

136

� Flatbrehytta Lodge

161

2Henjatunet Eggjagarden Estate

136

� Kaupanger

161

3Baldersteinen Menhir

138

� Kaupanger Stave Church

162

� Sogn Fjord Museum

162

4 Skrivareiki Tree &

Sorenskrivargarden Estate 5Prestegardshagen

138 140

� The Heiberg Collections

– Sogn Folk Museum

163

e x p lore sog n e f j ord

Balestrand

Sogndal

140

� Memorial of the Battle of Fimreite

165

� Fuglesteg Mountain Farm

189

�trip: Storehaugen

168

� Fjordstova

189

e x p lore sog n e fj ord

Luster

171

� The Romantic Route

189

� Safthuset

190

1 Solvorn

174

� Feigumfossen Waterfall

190

2 Galleri Walaker

174

� Munthehuset

190

3 Eplet

174

� Urnes Stave Church

192

4 Kayaking in Lustrafjord

174

� Urnes Deer Farm

193

5 BesteBakken

175

�trip: Molden

197

6 Veitastrond

176

7 Austerdalsbreen Glacier

176

8 Sogn Ski Centre

178

1 Utladalen

203

9 Fjordcruise

178

2 Utladalen Naturhus

203

0 Gaupne Old Church

178

3 Avdalen Farm & Tourist Station

204

� Lustrabadet Baths

179

4 Vetti Farm & Tourist Station

204

� Nes Farm

180

5 Vettisfossen Waterfall

205

� Dale Stone Church

180

6 Monument to the Navvies

206

� Lustrabui

181

7 Tindevegen

207

� Jostedal Power Station

181

8 '1000-meteren' to Heirsnosi

207

� Bergsetbreen Glacier

181

9 Open-Air Pools

208

� Glacier Hike on Nigardsbreen

182

0 Ofredal Tunnel

208

� The Glacial Hike

183

�Lærdalsmat

� BreheimCentre

183

� Rafting in Jostedøla

184

� Kayaking in Glacial Waters

184

� Leirdalen Glaciers and Canyons

184

� Mørkrisdalen

185

1 Gamle Lærdalsøyri

216

� Fortunsdalen

186

2 Norwegian Wild Salmon Centre

216

3 Sogn Art Centre

218

� Mountain Guide

to Storen (2405m) � Following Cairnsin Sognefjellet

186 186

Årdal

Sognefjord Gourmet �trip: Bøttejuvet

Lærdal

4 The Postal & Telecommunications

seum

199

209 211 213

Mu-

218

5 Borgund Stave Church

220

� Skjerdal

6Filefjell Mountain

222

�Aurlandsfjellet Mountain & Stegastein

7 The Lærdal Tunnel

223

8 Rikheim Golf Course

224

9 Cycling in Råsdalen Valley

224

0trip: Vindhellavegen

& Sverrestigen

Aurland

226 229

Viewpoint �trip: Aurlandsdalen

Vik

246

248 251 254

2 Storesvingen Fjellstove

254

3 Hopperstad Stave Church

254 256

1Nærøyfjord

232

4 Hove Stone Church

2Kayaking in Nærøyfjord

233

5 Kristianhus Ship's Engine

3 Styvi Farm Museum

233

4Along the Postal Route

234

6 Vikøyri

258

5 The Magical White Caves

234

7 Ostebar Cheese Bar

259

8 Moahaugane Burial Mounds

260

234

9 Finnafjord

260

7 Rallarvegen Navvies' Road

237

0 Le Mountain Farm in Arnafjorden

260

8 Ægir Brewery

238

�Statue of Fridtjof the Dauntless

262

9 Rallartoget Road Train

238

� Memorial to Mensen Ernst

262

0 Flåm Panorama

238

� SjøStigen

265

� Otternes Open-Air Museum

238

� Trips in a World Heritage Site

265

� Eldhuset

241

�trip: Huldafossane

267

� Underdalsbui

241

� Undredal Stave Church

241

Practical Information

268

� Underdal Tredreieri

243

Sources

270

� Stigen Farm

243

� Galleri Vinjum

243

�Aurlandskoen Economuseum

244

�Energy Exhibition Heradshuset

244

�Vangen Church

244

� Per Sivle Collection

244

6 Flåmsbana Railway Line & Flåmsbana

Museum

257

e x p lore sog n e f j ord

1 Vikafjellet

Museum

246

Welcome to Sognefjord!

e x p lore sog n e f j ord

lOCatEd iN thE hEart Of fjOrd NOrWay, Sognefjord is the longest and deepest fjord in Norway, stretching 200 km from the coast to the foot of the Jotunheimen, Jostedalsbreen and Breheimen national parks. The area around Sognefjord comprises the districts of Solund, Gulen, Hyllestad, Høyanger, Balestrand, Leikanger, Sogndal, Luster, Årdal, Lærdal, Aurland and Vik. The fjord landscape reveals variety and contrast, from cliffs and rounded hills to precipitous mountains. The landscape will affect you, whether you are seeing it from afar aboard a boat or being part of it and engaging in one of the many activities. The fjord, sea, steep hillsides, easy footpaths, glaciers and mountains can be experienced at close hand. The terrain can be explored independently or you can take part in organised age-appropriate activities. The coast with its islands, bays and coves welcomes you with open arms. You can go fishing, swimming, rowing, sailing, cycling, kayaking, diving, climbing and walking in the mountains to enjoy the views of magnificent coastal landscapes. You can go on a voyage of discovery amongst thousands of islets and skerries, and find your own personal, secret place. The national parks of Jotunheimen, Jostedalsbreen and Breheimen, and the conservation areas of Nærøyfjord, Breheimen, Utladalen and Stølsheimen are wellknown and popular with walkers. These mountain

National Tourist Routes

sognefjellet Mountain (rv55)

The Most Magnificent Mountain Pass in Northern Europe

Sognefjellet was the first national tourist route in 1998. The road passes through the most magnificent mountain areas in Norway, and is the highest mountain pass in northern Europe at 1434 metres above sea level at Fantesteinane. The viewpoint here commands views of Smørstabbreen Glacier and the surrounding peaks, but it is worthwhile stopping elsewhere too. At Oscarshaug, you can see Hurrungane and the fjord. Mefjellet viewpoint is surrounded by stunning landscapes with panoramic views of the Smørstabbtindane mountain range and Smørstabbreen Glacier to the east and Fanaråken and Hurrungane to the west. Prestesteinsvatnet Lake and numerous tarns sparkle further inland. Lodgings en route are a good start for trips on well-marked Nta footpaths. If you want to climb one of the peaks, you can hire a guide at Turtagrø Hotel.

sognefjellet Mountain

e x p lore sog n e f j ord

thE NOrWEgiaN pUbliC rOadS admiNiStratiON has selected 18 stretches of road in Norway to be so-called national tourist routes. Three of these are by Sognefjord. The tourist routes are beautiful drives, combining nature, history, culture and architecture. Special attention has been paid to creating architecturally pleasing viewpoints to break up the journey.

Agriculture & Food

e x p lore sog n e f j ord

SElf-SUffiCiENCy with regard to potatoes and cereals in the steep mountain areas by Sognefjord, was difficult as the soil was generally poor. Some cereals were grown, but land tended to be used for grazing and hay-making. Sheep, goats, cows and poultry were kept by many. Summer mountain farming was extensive. Farms often had a spring farm where the animals were sent to graze in the Spring as well as the summer farm further up the mountain. For those living in inner Sogn, the mountain was their larder, just as the sea was for those living on the coast. Churning butter and making cheese took place at the mountain farms. The people of Sogn may not have created the gammalost cheese, but traditional methods of making Norway’s oldest cheese are definitely valued here. The production of various goat cheeses, including the characteristic Norwegian brown cheese, is also steeped in history. In inner Sogn, the cultivation of berries and fruit has always been important. There were two groups of food: ‘Green’ an umbrella term for corn, flour, baked goods and potatoes whilst ‘Sul’ was butter, meat, bacon and fish; high-calorie food served alongside the main course of porridge or bread. Norwegians were resourceful. Meat, fish, fruit and berries were preserved in many ways. Many traditional dishes are now considered delicacies, such as Rakaure which is made by salting mountain trout and storing it in a tub for six to ten weeks. Lute-

Solund

An Ocean full of Islands

sol u n d

Solund iS a group of iSlandS located right at the mouth of Sognefjord, where fjord meets open sea. There are twice as many islands as there are inhabitants of Solund. The district is ideal for lovers of the sea, boats or fishing. The westernmost lighthouse in Norway, Utvær fyr ( 2) is also to be found here. On weekdays, the postal boat ( 5) sets out on its route through these islands, islets and skerries, through a distinctive coastal landscape, past mountains, boathouses and lighthouses, passing Gåsvær Island ( 3) and Lågøystolane rock formation ( �) on its way. This distinctive coastal landscape can be explored in many ways, by foot or bike ( 7), in a boat or a kayak ( 6). A selection of North Sea Trails ( 1, 9) lead you over crags, bays and rocks, always within view of the all-powerful ocean. Pollatinden ( �) is one of the most beautiful viewpoints on the western coast, and the climb up steep slopes of conglomerate through heaths clad in blossoming, purple heather is not to be missed. The most important industries in this island kingdom are fishing, fish-farming, maritime industries, and tourism.

Solund

population: 862 area : 19 km2 adMiniStratiVe Centre: Hardbakke

sol u n d

attraCtionS & aCtiVitieS 1 Utvær North Sea Trail 2 Boat Trip to Utvær 3 Gåsvær Island 4 Island Hopping in North Solund 5 Island Hopping by postal boat 8 Råkeneset 9 Ytre Sula North Sea Trail 0 Ramnenipa � Lågøystolane � trip: Pollatinden

CafÉS and reStaurantS aSolund Quayside b Havkroa Pub

rentalS c Kystkulturakademiet d Solund gjestegaard

loCal produCe e Solund Mat

sol u n d

e 9

�

8 �

a5 0 dc

MålestoKK 1:200 000

sol u n d

6 KayaKing

between islands

The round trip can be done in a day, but it is more enjoyable if you include a few overnight stops. Round trip ticket can be purchased at most tourist information offices in Sognefjord.

O summer, mon-fri T 7 ½ hrs A HardbaKKe quayside, 11am arrive rysjedalsviKa 6.35 pm (2012) I Round trip tickets for sale at most tourist information offices along the fjord. Booking at least a day before at Stiftinga Jensbua, +47 57 73 90 20 or m/s Stjernsund + 47 977 95 989, www.fjordkysten.no. B/U K23-502, 23-501, 14-335, 14-436, 14-434.

Solund, with its myriad of islands, is a kayaking paradise. The unique landscape is perfect for relaxed paddling between the many narrow sounds, where the islands act as a natural windbreak. The fauna of Solund is rich, with otters, sea eagles, red deer and grazing wild

5 stjernsund,

The post boat links the islands of Solund to the administrative centre of Hardbakke, and is a lifeline for the islanders. Post is delivered every day, no matter how many people live on the island or whether they are tourists or locals. The boat is not only used for the post. It transports pupils to and from school, tourists from island to island and ordinary passengers; sometimes even a flock of 30 sheep . The boat docks for post or passengers. Normally the islands of Lågøy, Litle Færøy, Ytrøygrend, Indrøy, Oddekalv, Gåsvær and Tangenes are on the route.

sheep. Kayaking is easily combined with a short mountain hike for an overview of the sea and the surrounding islands. There are a variety of kayaking trips in Solund with your choice being weather dependent. When the weather is good, why not paddle around Stoleneset in Lågøy to see the Lågøystolane landmark? Solund Natur can help you with guided kayaking suitable for all weathers. The paddle from Hardbakke to Lågøy and back takes a minimum of 3 hours.

tHe post boat, en route to litle færøy

O open in tHe summer @ tangenes, 6924 HardbaKKe M KystKulturaKademiet: +47 481 05 774, +47 918 61 047 I www.solundnatur.no, www.solundaktiv.com 7Exploring the islands by Bike

Take a bike with you, or hire one when you arrive in Solund. On the whole, there is little traffic on the roads and the landscape is flat. Bicycles can be hired at Solund Gjestegard. The ride from Hardbakke to Avløyp is highly recommended as it follows good cycle paths through magnificent scenery.

sol u n d

6Kayaking Amongst the Islands

t he p o S t b o at

sol u n d

exploring tHe islands by bicycle

About halfway, at Råkevågen, you can take a 20-minute detour down the old road to Råkeneset. It is short ride, suitable for the whole family. At Råkeneset, you can explore further and the children can play on the beach, go swimming or catch crabs. It is possible to stay the night at the unstaffed nta cottage.

T cycle trip 1 hr + 20-min walK. H 10–0 metres S 12 km + V 3 km A HardbaKKe K solund 117 iii I www.solundaktiv.com 8Råkeneset

A well hidden summer idyll

O open tHrougHout tHe year, accessible witH univeral nta Key @ 4 Km nortH of HardbaKKe I www.ut.no/ hytte/råkeneset 9Ytre Sula North Sea Trail

Hike with the Sea to the West

young sea eagle

Co ng l oMe r a t e Solund ConSiStS largely of heather clad rocks, with nearly all the stone being conglomerate from the Devonian Period. Some 400 million years ago, a colossal flood in northern Europe brought sand, sediment and pebbles with it. These stones became fixed in the sediment, forming conglomerate. Conglomorate consists of small stones encapsulated in the actual rock, and is easily recognisable. The surface of the rocks by the sea is rough with small stones protruding from it. Though this means that the rocks are less slippery, it makes walking barefoot uncomfortable.

The old road, which was used when the sea was too rough to be navigated, goes from Ytrøygrend in the north via Hjønnevåg to Straumen in the south. Today the road is a North Sea Trail where you can relish the beautiful, rugged scenery as it meets the open sea on this part of the coastline. The trail is well marked, and takes you through varied, undulating terrain and across colourful conglomerate rocks, past quiet lakes and sheltered bays. The last part of the trip to Hjønnevåg goes along the FV31. In Søre-Hjønnevåg, the trail returns to fields and relatively flat terrain for an hour until Straumen church. In many places on the trip, there are fantastic pan-

sol u n d

Råkeneset is the westernmost tourist cottage owned by nta. The old cotter’s croft is idyllically situated, sheltered from the wind by the rocks. It is a peaceful area with a hayfield, sun-soaked boulders and the beautiful sound of Råkesundet which runs north to south between the islands.

The area and buildings are a heritage site. The 250-year-old main house recounts the history of a fishing farmer whose life was entirely spent at Råkeneset. It is possible to stay the night at the main house. Park at Råkevågen on the main road to Strand, and take the path southwest through the fields, along the old farm road to the unstaffed tourist cottage of Råkeneset (20 mins.)

Leirnesstølen

Åkersvatnet Bjørneskardet

114

Halsen

høyan g e r

Skarshaugane

Svortemyr

� trip: Åkrenipa (669 metres above sea level)

Bird's Eye View of Sognefjord

Åkrenipa lies on the southern side of Sognefjord, and its peak commands a magnificent view of the entire outer part of the fjord and the northern area of the district of Høyanger. This walk follows the footsteps of Queen Sonja who took the trip in 2006.

The starting point is approximately 23 km from the ferry port at Oppedal, or 33 km from the ferry port at Ortnevik. The path starts just by the abandoned quayside and is well marked all the way up Åkrenipa. There are several routes down again. One is via Eggja

to Veslenipa (660 metres), from where there is a clear path down Årdalsranden to the derelict farm at Årdalen and back to the main road (2 hours). Another alternative from Veslenipa, is to continue across Bjørneskaret, a short, steep section of 100 metres

Åkrenipa

115

Jaktefjellet

Verpekleiva

� åkrenipa

down to Leirnesstølen, where there are ruins of a summer mountain dairy. The trip then continues in easy terrain. From here there are two possible routes. A clear path leads to Årdalen and back to the main road (2 ½ hours). A further 1½ km takes you

back to Svartemyr. Alternatively, you can continue on a well marked path on the southern side of the mountain until you arrive at a woodland road down to Osland, after which there are 6½ kilometres back to the car park in Svartemyr. There is no public car park in Osland.

O 4–5 hours H 0–669–0 m V 7 km A sVartemyr K høyanger

høyan g e r

roseBay willowherB

Cafés & Restaurants

166

a Compagniet reStaurant Buffet and à la carte menu, exlusive meat & fish dishes. Gravensteinsgata 5, 6851 Sogndal +47 57 62 77 00 www.qualityhotelsogndal.no

Sog n d al

b dr. hagen Café & Bar Varied à la carte menu, reasonably priced, fish & meat dishes. Gravensteinsgata 5, 6851 Sogndal +47 57 62 77 00 www.qualityhotelsogndal.no c la pergola Gravensteinsgata 5, 6851 Sogndal +47 57 62 77 00 www.qualityhotelsogndal.no d hofSlund fjord hotel Homemade food. Open in the summer. Fjørevegen 37, 6856 Sogndal +47 57 62 76 00 www.hofslund-hotel.no e domuS

Kafe Hot meals, cakes and snacks. Sogningen Storsenter, 6852 Sogndal +47 57 62 77 00 www.sogningen.no f Konditoriet Baked goods and simple snacks. Sogningen Storsenter, 6852 Sogndal +47 57 62 77 00 www.sogningen.no

g dolly

dimple’S pizza Pizza, also gluten free. Sogningen Storsenter, 6852 Sogndal +47 57 62 77 00 www.sogningen.no

h Kafé Krydder Simple dishes. Coffee. Al fresco dining. Play area. Parkvegen 6, 6856 Sogndal +47 908 43 828 www.kafekrydder.no i latten Café & eSpreSSo Bar Simple snacks and wide selection of coffees. Gildevangen 2, 6856 Sogndal +47 415 02 227 � Sogn folK muSeum muSeum Café Traditional Norwegian dishes from locally sourced produce. Hot food on Wednesdays. Open in the summer and for selected events. Vestreim, 6854 Kaupanger +47 57 67 82 06 www.dhs.museum.no j timBer Café & reStaurant From simple dishes to exclusive gourmet menus. Open in the summer. Vestreim, 6854 Kaupanger +47 57 62 71 00 www.vesterland.no k KnaKen Kafé Homemade dinners and snacks based on locally sourced organic produce. Open in the Summer. Havnebakken 1, 6854 Kaupanger +47 480 04 817 www.knaken.no

l hotel mundal Traditional breakfast and dinner. Open in the Summer. 6848 Fjærland +47 57 69 31 01 www.hotelmundal.no l Café

onKel miKKel Simple, homemade dishes and lunch. Open in the Summer. 6848 Fjærland +47 5769 3101 www.hotelmundal.no

fjærland fjordStue hotel Breakfast, lunch and 3-course dinner. Open in the Summer and throughout the year for groups. 6848 Fjærland +47 410 00 200 www.fjaerlandhotell.no

o BrevaSShytta Café and restaurant. Dinner and snacks. Open in the Summer. Fjærland, 6848 Bøyum +47 57 69 32 96, +47 950 67 259

Local Produce p fimreite fruit & BerrieS Seasonal sale of fruit and apple chutney. Fimreite, 6856 Sogndal +47 57 67 26 10, +47 959 16 841 q lomelde orChard Seasonal sale of raspberries, cherries, apples, plums and preserved fruit. 6859 Slinde +47 95 78 34 34 www.lomelde.no

amBle farm Shop Organic apples, apple chutney and apple juice. Øvre Amla 14, 6854 Kaupanger. +47 57 67 81 70 www.amblegaard.no

s inSpiration

amla art

& Craft Sale of locally produced candles & pottery. Sale of waffles. Open in the Summer. Kaia, 6854 Kaupanger +47 917 43 536 www.amlakunst.no

Rentals BoaTs, KayaKs & caNoes

u indre Sogn CoaStal SoCiety

Traditional wooden boats with two sets of oars. Amlabukta in Kaupanger. Open in the Summer. +47 970 30 828 www.kystled-sogn.no � fjærland KayaK & glaCier Kayaks, canoes and rowing boats. Open in the Summer. Sandaneset, 6848 Fjærland +47 928 54 674, +47 57 20 01 78 www.kayakandglacier.com

Bicycles 5 Sogndal touriSt information offiCe Open in the Summer. Hovevegen 2, 6856 Sogndal +47 976 00 443

w touriSt information offiCe in fjærland Open in the Summer. Mundal, 6848 Fjærland +47 57 69 32 33 www.fjaerland.org

June BoKnatti Large book market with concert. www.bokbyen.no Sognefjord lerum Cup Football Cup in Sogndal and Luster for boys and girls aged 11–14. www.sognefjordcup.no

Fishing

July

salmoN & sea TrouT

jotunheimen rundt 430 km bike ride for the super fit. www.jotunheimenrundt.com

SogndalSelva river Fishing Permit from Stedje Nurseries, Granden 7, 6856 Sogndal More info: Sogndal Jeger og Sportsfiskarlag (Hunting & Fishing Society) + 47 57 67 10 37 mouNTaiN TrouT dalavatnet laKe & aneStølSvatnet laKe Fishing Permit: Sogndal Tourist Information Office, Hovevegen 2, 6856 Sogndal +47 976 00 443

Festivals February fjellSportfeStivalen Avalanche courses, steep downhill skiing, mountain climbing. www.brattmoro.no/ fjellsportfestivalen StudentveKa Music festival with well-known artistes and other events. www.studentveka.no

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September fjell- og fjordmoro Autumn festival with climbing, cycling, watersports, hiking and various other sports. brattmoro.no/fjellogfjordmoro

Sog n d al

t nilS Svedal hytter Rowing boat on Dalavatnet Lake. Open in the Summer Torstad, 6856 Sogndal +47 980 06 780

v Bøyum Camping Open in the Summer. 6848 Fjærland +47 57 69 32 52

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8 Sogn Ski Centre

Sogn Ski Centre has the longest ski lift in Norway, from 320 to 900 metres above sea level. At the top there is a fantastic panoramic view of the fjord and the mountains and over 10 km of groomed cross-country trails. The Ski Centre has a family-friendly area with a free children’s ski lift and a well-groomed floodlit slope. The area also offers paragliding and winter camping, picturesque ski slopes, steep slalom slopes and off-piste skiing in powder snow.

O open in the winter @ on the rv55, heggmyrane, 6869 hafSlo M +47 57 68 45 11 M +47 478 02 501 I www.sognskisenter.no

9 Fjordcruise

Sogn SKi centre

0 Gaupne Old Church

Exclusive Journey

A Gem in Simple Garb

The landscape around Lustrafjord has inspired many artists. The attractions of Feigumfossen waterfall, Urnes Stave Church and Solvorn can be viewed from the fjord. The boat docks on request should you wish to visit these sights. The trip lasts 2½ hours, giving a good introduction to the culture, landscape and history of idyllic Lustrafjord. Take some food with you and enjoy your lunch in peaceful, majestic surroundings.

Gaupne Old Church is a simple, but exceptionally beautiful wooden church situated at the top of a hill nestling amongst the mountains. It replaced an earlier stave church, whose timber was reused else-

O Summer. tueS & thurS By prior arrangement. @ 6873 marifjøra M +47 57 68 35 00 I www.torvis.no

0 interior

of gaupne old church

0 gaupne

old church

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ďż˝ luStraBadet

BathS

used for special occasions such as the annual midsummer service.

O open in the Summer @ 6868 gaupne M +47 57 67 88 40 I www.stavechurch.com/ gaupne

ďż˝ Lustrabadet Baths

Fun for all the Family

The new swimming baths in Gaupne opened in Autumn 2012. The building, designed by Frode SĂ¸rvig, has panoramic windows overlooking the mountains and fjord. There is a 25-metre pool,

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where, including the side walls of the west entrance. From the outside, the church seems simple, but it is richly decorated inside with colourful murals and carvings of writhing snakes and dragons. The chancel is a rarity, with a starry night sky on the ceiling and historic murals. Several of the apostles are depicted in full length. The catechism board from 1589 is an altarpiece with no illustration but only the text of all five catechisms, in order to divert the attention of the congregation from the church building towards the Bible and the catechism. In 1909, the church was donated to The Society for the Preservation of Norwegian Ancient Monuments by the congregation. Today, Gaupne Old Church is

ises glacier and kayak trips in the area and rafting on Jostedalselva.

O open in the Summer @ 6871 joStedal M +47 57 68 32 50 I www.jostedal.com � Rafting in Jostedøla

The Jostedøla river goes from Jostedalsbreen national park down to Lusterfjord, and is very suitable for rafting. The trip passes through spectacular mountain landscapes and canyon-like terrain about 6 kilometres south of Jostedal Camping. The trips vary from easy family trips to more advanced riverboarding only suitable for strong swimmers.

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O Summer @ joStedal camping, gjerde,

�

KayaKing at Styggevatnet laKe

6871 joStedal M +47 970 14 370 I BooK at Breheim centre, +47 5768 3250 www.icetroll.com � Kayaking in Glacial

Lakes

Paddling between icebergs One of the most spectacular trips locally is a kayak trip on Styggevatnet lake to the front of Austdalsbreen glacier. The lake is 1200 metres above sea level, and the trip takes you past small icebergs formed as the glacier calves directly into the water. Icetroll organises trips in these unique surroundings, as well as kayaking in Tunsbergdalsvatnet Lake combined with glacier hikes on Tunsbergdalsbreen.

O Summer @ icetroll, 6871 joStedal M +47 970 14 370 I www.icetroll.com � Leirdalen Glaciers and Canyons

Fun-filled, wet challenges Why not challenge yourself on the Leirdøla river? The trip passes waterfalls and cliff faces with swimming and easy climbing en route. Participants are equipped with wetsuits, buoyancy aids and helmets and an experienced guide. On the way back, you can jump from various heights and slide down waterfalls, according to how tough you feel.

O Summer @ leirdalen, 6868 gaupne M +47 470 27 878

� Mørkrisdalen

Beautiful and Fertile with Thundering Waterfalls Mørkrisdalen is also called ‘the valley of waterfalls’ and the sound of running water from rivers and waterfalls accompanies you throughout the trip through this beautiful, fertile valley up to the mountain. The path starts by the car park at Hyrnavollen at the end of the road in Mørkri, about 9 km from Skjolden. Parts of the trip go through elegant deciduous woodland, verdant ferns and idyllic ponds before passing flat grassy plains still used as summer grazing for cattle. Dulsete is the first mountain farm, located by picturesque Dulsetefossen

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Dr. F r e D r i k Ar e ntz FreDrik Arentz (1844–1914) was born in Bergen. Initially qualifying a s a doctor, he gave up medicine for geology, and soon became an internationally renowned geologist. Throughout his life he enjoyed hiking in the mountains, particularly in Breheimen. He disappeared without trace in 1914, when walking from Leirvassbu to Turtagrø. In 1954, Erik Arentz donated a substantial sum to the NTA in memory of his father, with which they have purchased a number of cottages, the first being Arentzbu which opened in 1956. �

mørKriSdalen

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7 rallarvegen

- tHe navvies' road

7 Rallarvegen – The Navvies' Road

Best Cycle Route in Norway

M +47 5763 3313 I in peaK season, nsB runs a cycle train froM ål via Myrdal to voss. cycle Hire at flåM tourist inforMation

a maStErpiECE Of ENgiNEEriNg When the railway line between Oslo and Bergen was brought into service in 1909, there was no access to the fjords. A branch line was needed down to Sognefjord. Work on the Flåmsbana line started in 1923, but it took 17 years for it to be completed. Flåmsbana goes from fjord to mountain with a height difference of 866 metres. The largest incline is 55%, making it one of the steepest railway lines in the world. The 20.2 km trip goes through 20 tunnels, which make up a quarter of the stretch. Manual labour was used for 18 of the tunnels, with one metre of line being a month’s work. It was planned that the line would open in 1942, but when war broke out only five kilometres of track remained. The occupying forces insisted that work should continue and the line was opened on 1 August 1940. A railway line in Sogn & Fjordane could not be taken for granted. Ingolf Elster Christensen (1872-1943), county representative and transport campaigner played an important part in the introduction of the railway in 1923. He was therefore known as the father of Flåmsbana, and is commemorated in Flåm with a bust. In 2005, a monument was unveiled for those who led the work, as well as the navvies who completed this masterpiece of engineering. Both memorials stand in front of the Flåmsbana Museum.

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This 80-kilometre cycle track is well maintained, leading from Haugastøl (988 metres above sea level) via Taugevatn, Finse, Hallingskeid, Myrdal down to Flåm (2 metres above sea level). The first part of the route follows the Bergensbana railway line which was opened in 1909 and passes several listed buildings and guard’s huts with information boards with their names and year of construction. They are mostly owned by NSB (Norwegian State Railways). Early in the season, there may be a lot of snow at the highest altitudes and it is advisable to take the cycle train between Finse and Hallingskeid. After 21 kilometres you reach Hallingskeid Station. There are only

15 kilometres left to Myrdal. Self-service Nta cottages are found at both Finse and Hallingskeid. The road now descends steeply to Myrdal. Be careful at Klevagjelet as the route is narrow and unfenced. Why not rest at Café Rallaren in Myrdal? A little further down at Vatnahalsen, a hotel also serves refreshments. The final 20 kilometres go down Flåmsdalen valley through magnificent west Norwegian landscapes. This journey descends through 865 metres. In the upper section, there are 21 bends in the road where you should consider dismounting from your bike.

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goats in undredal

UN d r E d a lS O S t E N C hE E SE NOWadayS, a gOat'S ChEESE is produced using tradional methods in Underdal. The village of Undredal and the mountain dairies were not connected to the road network until 1986, which meant that the farms had to process their own milk. They also had to ensure that the local general store was able to sell the cheeses. A cheese which would persuade customers to return for more, had to be produced. All the producers in the village felt a responsibility to produce a cheese with such a reputation. Those behind Undredal Stølsysteri BA, have continued this tradition into the modern day. As one of the first goat’s cheese dairies in Norway, they have permission to sell white and brown cheese without destroying the best qualities of the milk through

pasteurisation. In early May, the goats are led up to the summer farm in Melhus, next door to Undredal Stølsysteri . After their evening milking, the goats can graze up to 1000 metres up the mountain, but in the morning they faithfully return to be milked. Many goats can be seen grazing along the road in the summer. The Undredal Stølsysteri produces three types of cheese, brown Undredalsost, white Undredalsost and Sognakvitost. The brown one is sweet and good on sandwiches or to add piquancy to a gravy whereas the mature white cheese has countless culinary uses. Visitors are not welcome at the dairy, but the cheeses can be purchased at Underdalsbui and Eldhuset.

beautiful views of Aurlandsfjord. The oldest buildings are 17th century, and all stand on their original sites. Today the farm is a museum, as well as a living farm with cultural trails and activities. Otternes is situated between Aurlandsvangen and Flåm. A cycle route and footpath links Flåm to Otternes.

O open in tHe suMMer @ otternes, 5745 aurland M +47 57 63 11 32 M +47 481 25 138 I www.otternes.no � Eldhuset

Taste Undredalsosten Cheese

O tHrougHout tHe year @ 5746 undredal M +47 57 63 30 80 I www.visitundredal.no � Undredal Stave Church

The Smallest in Norway

Undredal Stave Church is a single nave long church, dating from 1147. It is reputed to be the smallest working church in Scandinavia. Originally built as a chapel, it was then called St. Nicolai Chapel. The chandelier with five carved animal heads is probably medieval. In the

17th century, the church walls were decorated with vines whilst stars, people, mythical creatures and various symbols were painted on the barrel-shaped ceiling. In 1722, the church was extended and in 1850 the porch was removed and the nave extended. In 1962, the church was restored to reveal the original 17th century decorations. This tiny church seats a congregation of 40, and is one of few churches in Norway where the church bells are rung from within the nave.

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O open in tHe suMMer @ 5746 undredal M +47 952 97 668 I www.underdal.no

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This is an exhibition of Undredalsost cheese with a presentation of how it was made and matured at the summer mountain dairy in the olden days. Further information about the mountain farms and how to explore the mountains in the heart of the world heritage site of Nærøyfjord is also available. The presentation includes a taste of goat’s cheeses from Undredal, cured goat’s meat, homemade crispbread, sour cream, cloudberry jam and local fruit cordials. A café serves a variety of locally sourced dishes which you can enjoy whilst taking in the impressive views of the fjord.

available. They are made in the traditional way by salting, smoking and drying without adding other meat, lard, spices and preservatives. .

O open in tHe suMMer @ 5746 undredal M +47 57 63 31 00 I www.visitundredal.no, www.undredalsost.no � Underdalsbui

General Store selling Local Produce This traditional general store sells a variety of goat’s cheeses produced by Undredal Stølsysteri. Cured goat’s meat, and other local meats from Undredal are also � undredal

stave cHurcH

4 Hove Stone Church

Divine Apse

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The original stone church on the Hove Estate was built in the late 12th century, probably as a private church for the landowner at Hove. The church standing today may have replaced an early chapel on the estate. The church has ashlar walls with a square west tower, a rectangular nave and a lower rectangular chancel with apse. Inside the church, Blix removed anything post-medieval and expanded some decorative details. He had a medieval pattern painted on the walls and a stained glass window installed. The apse in the chancel furthest to the east is divine, with a deep blue dome

4 interior

4 Hove

stone cHurcH

of Hove stone cHurcH

where the sun, moon and stars shine. The apse also has three deep niches with stunning stained glass windows and an old stone altar.

KristianHus sHip's engine MuseuM

O open in tHe suMMer @ Hove, 6893 viK M +47 57 68 88 40 I stavechurch.com/hove 257

5 Kristianhus Ship's

Engine Museum

also stored boats, and several of these are now in the museum built by Vik Council in Vikøyri.

O open in tHe suMMer. guided tours By arrangeMent witH Kristian ottersKred,

M +47 902 66 223 @ viKøyri at viK touristinforMation office, 6893 viK. M +47 57 69 56 86

pEtEr aNdrEaS bliX: rESCUEr Of thE ChUrChES iN viK pEtEr aNdrEaS bliX (1831–1901) was the man who saved Hove Stone Church and Hopperstad Stave Church. Blix trained as an architect and engineer in Germany, and pioneered the preservation of Norwegian heritage. In Bergen, he led the restoration of Håkonshallen and the Cathedral. He was also one of the founders of the Society of Engineers and Architects. When Blix led the restoration of Håkonshallen in Bergen in the 1880s, he was offered soapstone from Vik. He later found out that the stone was from Hove Stone Church which was facing demolition. Derelict since 1870 because it was too small, it was to be replaced by a new, larger church in Vik. Blix purchased the church to prevent it from being demolished. Blix wanted to return the church to its original appearance. The soapstone that was used to repair the walls and complete the doorways, was found in various local sites and Blix gave strict instructions as to

how the work was to be carried out. When Blix died in 1901, he was buried under the church floor. An inscription reads ‘From Love to Art, he Rebuilt this House of God’. Petter Andreas Blix also saved Hopperstad Stave Church. In 1885, it was left to decay as it was replaced by a new, larger church built between Hove Stone Church and Hopperstad Stave Church. The Stave Church was bought by t he Society for the Preservation of Norwegian Ancient Monuments, and Blix offered resources and his expertise free of charge. From 1885-91, the church was repainted, checked and restored. Blix wanted it to be returned to how it was originally. He led the restoration based on Borgund Stave Church . In 1981, a stone with a plaque of Blix in relief was unveiled in Vikøyri. The inscription read: ‘With gratitude from the people of the village’.

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Kristianhus Ship’s Engine Museum was opened in Vik in 1997. The museum represents the life work of Kristian Otterskred (1938–) from Arnafjorden who has collected 240 ship’s engines since 1976. In Norway alone there were 152 workshops that produced ship’s engines and the museum has had engines donated from 40 of them. The oldest in the collection is a steam engine from 1905. Otterskred has

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opplev explore sognefjorden sognefjord Ein reiseguide til Noregs A Travel Guide to the Heart ofhjarte Norway

Ein reiseguide A Travel Guide to til Noregs the Heart hjarte of Norway

explore opplev sognefjord sognefjorden

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