Professional Beauty UK - August 2019 by Professional Beauty UK

AT THE HEART OF THE SPA AND SALON BUSINESS

FITNESS • URBAN RETREAT LAUNCH • AW19 NAIL TRENDS • DEMENTIA-FRIENDLY SPAS

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INCLUSIVE SPACE TREATING CLIENTS WITH DEMENTIA

SURVIVAL OF THE FITTEST INTEGRATING FITNESS INTO A 360º WELLNESS OFFER

August 2019

August 2019 | professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Regulars 6 News Spa Experience to launch express beauty salons in London; Sally Durant Training acquired by Skin Group International

Contents

Aug

Contents

19 Professionalbeauty.co.uk What the industry’s been talking about online 20 Social Surgery How to create social content to boost your business 24 Out & about Behind the scenes at the biggest beauty and spa parties 29 Insider Our exclusive monthly stats to help salons and spas benchmark their businesses 37 Ward’s world Hellen Ward on the challenges of salon room rentals 41 Ask the experts Preventing no-shows and options for funding your first beauty business 83 Do you need an accountant? Everything you need to know about investing in a bookkeeper 89 Treatment news Details on Comfort Zone’s new cellulite treatment and more 90 New products First look at Sienna X’s skincare line and the latest tools for lash treatments 96 Career Path The Massage Company’s Christina Tomlin on specialising as a massage therapist

Features 47 Talking to… Kayley Cairns The PB Award winner and nail art aficionado talks us through the trends and challenges facing the market 52 The ultimate beauty destination? Inside Urban Retreat’s new standalone salon The White House 58 Perfect pairing How Hand Picked Hotels strengthened its spa and fitness operations by merging the two 60 On the move Fitness equipment launches that are ideal for spas 62 Hot topic With some local councils telling salons they are no longer allowed to apply topical anaesthetic prior to skin-needling treatments, we investigate legalities of the issue 78 Hit refresh The hottest uniform and towel launches to invest in

On the cover 56 Fit the bill There’s been an uptake in UK spas collaborating with fitness practitioners in a bid to boost treatment results. We look at the rise of spa-health coach partnerships 64 Seasonal shift Big-name nail techs talk AW19 trends and explain why navy blue, earthy browns and yellow-based greens are going to be on clients’ wish list. Plus, get a first look at the pro brands’ AW19 collections 72 Peace of mind With someone in the UK developing dementia every three minutes, it’s never been more important to know how to tailor your salon experience for those living with the condition. We outline the training and protocol changes needed to make your business dementia-friendly Cover image: Penneys

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Editor’s Comment

News this month that even nonvegans are seeking out vegancertified skincare, and that sales of calming aromatherapy products are booming (pages 7 and 8), is testament to the growth of the accessible wellness movement – where consumers are making small but achievable adjustments to their lifestyle choices. Once the domain of residential spa retreats, wellness is becoming part of everyday life for more people, presenting opportunities for smaller salons and spas that don’t have the facilities to offer a full medical wellbeing programme but can still tap into the trend in an authentic way. The growing popularity of CBD treatments is one example, and we take a closer look at the businesses embracing this trend on page 6. Another way to introduce wellness packages without making a huge upfront investment is by partnering with a practitioner. Last issue we looked at businesses that were doing that to create emotional wellbeing retreats, and this month we turn our attention to fitness, profiling spas that have linked up with personal trainers, health coaches and other specialists to pair exercise with relaxation. One exciting new business that is taking the wellness trend to new heights is the long-awaited Urban Retreat at The White House, which offers everything from intolerance testing and gynaecology to laser hair removal. We take a first look at the super-salon on page 52. As well as implementing manageable changes, accessible wellness is about inclusivity, and our feature on page 72 explores the steps you can take to make your business dementia-friendly, from the training available, to the types of language and signage you should use to make sure your salon or spa is welcoming to all.

Editor

@Pro_Beauty01

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SUBSCRIBE NEW: membership benefits when you subscribe. Gold Membership UK: £37; Europe: £44; outside Europe: £49.50 To receive your copy of Professional Beauty every month call 01371 851875 or visit hairandbeauty.escosubs.co.uk Silver Membership: £10 To view full issues on your desktop, tablet or smartphone, see hairandbeauty.escosubs.co.uk Published by Trades Exhibitions Ltd Editorial enquiries: 020 7351 0536 editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk Advertising enquiries: 020 7351 0536

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Caroline Ruston caroline.r@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4798

Editor: Eve Oxberry eve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7378

Amanda Strange amanda.s@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4793

Deputy editor: Amanda Pauley amanda@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3728 9064 Features editor: Georgia Seago georgia@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3728 9063 Social media editor: Chris Halpin chris@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 3841 7368 Sales director: Steve James steve@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4791 Account managers: Jack Diamond jack@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4792

Sibel Suleyman sibel@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4794 Classified and recruitment sales: Nur Tanyeri nur@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4796 Publisher: Mark Moloney mark@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4790 Head of marketing: Chloe Monina chloe@professionalbeauty.co.uk 020 7349 4799 Design and production: ICD, imagecreativedesign.co.uk Printing: Walstead, walstead-uk.com The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser whose advertisement is published in Professional Beauty. Anyone dealing with advertisers must make their own enquiries.

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6 News

News Sally Durant Training acquired by Skin Group International The assets of Sally Durant Training have been acquired by Skin Group (Training) Ltd, part of Skin Group International. Skin Group Training (SGT) said it will continue to deliver the Sally Durant Training courses and that it has been in touch with all students about completing courses in progress. SGT acquired the intellectual property of Sally Durant Training, which provides accredited courses on advanced skin studies, on June 21. The training company was founded by aesthetic expert Sally

Durant, and has been delivering industry education since 2009. Sally Durant said: “The acquisition will allow Sally Durant Training to trade forward under new ownership and enable all of my students to complete their courses. I am excited to be working with them as a consultant going forward.” A spokesperson for Skin Group (Training) Ltd added: “We are very happy to have acquired the Sally

Durant Training business, which sets a benchmark in the sector. Our first priority is to look after the existing learners and help them achieve their goals and dreams.”

Call for UK Government to ban botox and filler for under 18s The Royal Society for Public Health (RSPH) is asking the UK Government to ban injectables for under 18s in light of TV programmes such as Love Island making fillers popular with teenagers. Spokesperson Duncan Stephenson said: “There is huge pressure on young people to conform to the unrealistic and unattainable ideals they see on shows like Love Island, but there are no age restrictions on non-surgical procedures.”

The public health organisation has warned that these treatments can trigger health problems if conducted by untrained practitioners, including infections, sepsis, scarring and in some cases even blindness. Head of the RSPH Shirley Cramer has branded the current rules surrounding injectables “unfit for purpose”, adding, “the regulation of providers of these services is markedly different across the UK”.

Rudding Park and Cowshed among first spas to offer CBD treatments UK spas are adding cannabidiol-infused treatments to their menu as CBD oil continues to grow in popularity. Rudding Park in Harrogate has created a CBD experience that includes a foot cleanse, massage and tea, all infused with cannabidiol; while Cowshed Spa in London has launched a facial and a massage using the natural ingredient. Meanwhile, The Potting Shed Spa in Batley has launched CBD training, teaching salons and spas how to blend the power of massage with the healing properties of cannabidiol oil. Courses start in September. Contact info@thepottingshed.co.uk for more information.

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Spa Experience to launch express beauty treatments concept Salon Experience Day spa chain Spa Experience by Better is launching a salon-only concept “Salon Experience” this autumn, which will offer express beauty treatments alongside fitness classes. The first site will launch at Greenwich Leisure Limited’s (GLL) Chelsea Sports Centre in London – GLL is Spa Experience’s parent company. The space will feature three facial pods, two pedicure stations, one manicure desk, a retail shop and smoothie bar, all in an open-plan layout. There will also be two closed-off treatment rooms for massage and waxing, and the salon will be connected to a studio, where clients can do Pilates and yoga. “It’s the first concept we’ve done like this and we really want to hone in on the express treatments. It’s about getting results for clients and getting them quickly because people in London are time-poor,” Melissa Evans, national spa and fitness class manager for Spa Experience, told Professional Beauty. “Salon Experience will be edgy and modern, with exposed brick and pipe

work, and the vibe will be that clients pop in for a quick class followed by an express treatment. It will be completely different to the traditional spa environment, which has more of that luxe feel. “Plus, in Central London, it’s difficult to get a big space and with thermal spa areas you need a large amount of room and a big capital investment to do it right. So, we’re taking all our learnings from the treatment rooms and training offered at Spa Experience and applying it into the Salon Experience environment.” If the pilot takes off then there’s potential to roll the concept out to other GLL sites. Spa Experience currently has nine traditional spa sites in the UK.

Vegan beauty sales booming in the UK, even among non-vegan women More than half (56%) of British women between the ages of 18 and 45 who regularly wear make-up are buying vegan beauty products, even though a third (39%) aren’t actually vegan, discovered beauty engine cosmetify.com. When asked about switching up their beauty shopping habits, 62% said it was about making more ethical choices, which they have been doing for the past five to 10 years, while 44% would be happy to pay more for “conscious” beauty products, with 68% choosing organic, 61% looking for natural and 49% seeking out vegan options, the report found.

However, only 9% said they exclusively buy vegan products, though 47% said they do this more than they used to. The report also showed a growing trend towards plastic-free products, with more than a third (39%) of women saying they buy plastic-free beauty more than they previously did.

inbrief

News

// London College of Beauty Therapy has launched new Level 4 advanced aesthetics beauty therapy courses as part of a flexible learning research pilot that the college won from the Government last year. Accredited by Cibtac, the courses are an update of the current Level 4 qualifications and now include a suite of online and interactive materials. // Department store John Lewis has launched the BeautyCycle recycling scheme, which rewards customers who trade in beauty empties in store with £5 off their next beauty shop. The trial, in partnership with TerraCycle, aims to help combat the issue of nonrecyclable beauty waste. // Sheet mask manufacturer BeautyPro is the latest skincare company to become PETA certified, demonstrating its commitment to stamping out cruelty to animals. The company’s three product lines – BeautyPro, BarberPro and Natura – have been awarded PETA’s certificate of approval. // 3D-lipo’s flagship clinic in Leamington Spa scooped Phorest’s Client Experience Award 2019 – a title that recognises high standards of customer service based on client reviews. The 3D-lipo team was recognised for its personalised service and ability to customise treatments. // Graham Clarke has been appointed director of sales for Image Skincare UK. He brings 20 years’ experience, having previously worked for Space NK, Aveda and Sothys. “This is a chance to explore new opportunities for the UK market,” said Clarke. professionalbeauty.co.uk

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8 News

inbrief

// With more clients wanting to reconnect with nature, Rudding Park Spa in Harrogate has launched Woodland Glade – a secluded area in its gardens for outdoor treatments. The 75-minute therapies on offer there include a chakra wellbeing massage and karuna kaya deep-tissue massage. // On-demand treatment app My Beauty Squad has launched into Birmingham, its fourth city. The appbased service offers clients treatments at their home, hotel or office and has a team of more than 140 experts on the go. It also operates in London, Cork and Dublin. // Operator membership numbers have risen at the UK Spa Association following the implementation of new strategic plans, which included growing the reach of its networking events. The group has experienced a 25% increase in members since January and plans to launch a campaign to change consumer perception of spa. // Spa group Champneys has introduced quartz crystal beds to its Forest Mere spa. Two Elemis treatments are available on the beds, which cocoon the body in warm sand. The group also teamed up with business expert Liz McKeon last month, hosting management programme Champneys Mastermind Retreat for salon and spa owners. // Cornwall’s newest spa at Mullion Cove has announced seaweed brand Voya as its main product house. The clifftop spa will offer a range of Voya treatments as well as retailing its product line.

Aromatherapy beauty product sales soar 500% in first half of 2019 Sales of aromatherapy-based prestige beauty soared by more than 500% this year as consumers invested in products with aromatherapeutic benefits to aid their mental health, found market analyst The NPD Group. Research has shown that both lavender and frankincense essential oils have calming and anxiety-relieving effects on the nervous system, and there was a 552% increase in value sales of lavender-based products from January to the end of April 2019, compared to the same period in 2018. Meanwhile, skincare formulated with frankincense has also proved popular, demonstrated by a sales increase of 200% during the same period, the report found. Sales of rose and lemongrass-

infused products also grew, by 6% and 5% respectively. “The emergence of the mindful beauty trend is a response to the need to achieve solace and self-care in beauty rituals that calm the mind, cleanse the skin and offer a little ‘me’ time,” commented NPD UK beauty director June Jensen.

Solutions to the salon price war and no-shows discussed at PB’s Salon Networking Forum

Professional Beauty held its Salon & Spa Networking Forum as a standalone event in Birmingham for the first time, giving support to businesses in that region of the country. At The Champagne Rooms, Hotel Indigo, on July 1, 25 salon-based and mobile beauty therapists came together to discuss the big issues and share solutions. There was lively debate about whether salon owners should offer regular discounts to compete in this saturated market or if they should hold their ground and know their worth.

Many felt that a strong marketing strategy for customer retention on social media was the way forward to create client loyalty without heavily discounting. When it comes to client no-shows, keeping a black list of repeat offenders and creating tighter cancellation polices were discussed as the steps that need to be taken. The next networking forum, Salon & Spa Connect, will take place as part of PB North in Manchester on October 13. Find out more at professionalbeauty.co.uk/connect

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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10 News

inbrief

Key spa market challenges uncovered at PB’s first-ever spa directors panel

// Pevonia’s Stem Cells Phyto-Elite Intensive Contouring Wrap was featured on ITV This morning in June as part of a focus on tackling cellulite. The team visited Television Centre in London to demo the treatment for Holly and Phil. The other treatments featured in the segment were Biodermogenesi and Body Ballancer. // Beauty and make-up have topped British women’s most desired types of subscription box, with 68% wanting grooming essentials posted to them, more than sweets at 54%, found research by showerstoyou.co.uk. Wanting to try something new and positive recommendations from friends are the key reasons women subscribe to these services. // There’s a new date to work into your salon rota. The Government is changing the first May bank holiday in 2020 from Monday, May 4, to Friday, May 8, to coincide with the 75th anniversary of VE (Victory in Europe) Day – when Winston Churchill announced that the Second World War with Germany was over. // Lifehouse Spa & Hotel in Essex has added skincare brand Elemis to its menu, offering Biotec facials, massages, scrubs and wraps. “We feel that its ethos is a perfect fit for Lifehouse,” said Sarah Tester, Lifehouse’s director of finance and operations. // HD Brows hosted a makeup masterclass for brow stylists, MUAs and beauty bloggers at its Leeds academy. Delegates learned make-up and brow looks from lead MUA Rebecca Cathcart and brow artist Jamie Long, while chief executive Karen Betts popped by to watch.

Staff recruitment and promoting spa as an enticing career choice are the big challenges for spa operators right now, according to the findings from PB’s first spa directors focus group and networking event. 12 leading spa operators including Louise Moore of Hilton Group, Lesley Bacon of Hand Picked Hotels and Darren Dixon of Pennyhill Park came to London on June 26 to discuss the key challenges facing the market. All agreed that the pool of good therapists was getting smaller, with many struggling to find the expertise they need to match client demand. Discussion took place about what can be done to demonstrate that a job in spa is an

attractive career option, with many stating that an industry campaign should be launched to target teenagers in schools as well as existing beauty students. Some of the top trends shaping the industry were also identified. Many flagged the impact of artificial intelligence and virtual reality as a key trend to watch, citing examples such as the popularity of on-demand fitness classes. Conversely, the growing demand for services that allow clients to reconnect with nature was highlighted, with outdoor thermal areas and forest bathing among the most popular. Professional Beauty plans to host these networking events for spa directors at least twice a year.

Standalone brow bars on the rise in London Blow-dry company Duck & Dry and make-up brand Benefit Cosmetics are the latest companies to launch standalone brow bars in London. Understanding the popularity of express treatments, Duck & Dry has added brow space Duck & Pluck (pictured) to its Mayfair salon, offering an array of treatments including tinting, waxing and threading. The company plans to roll out the concept to four other sites soon. Benefit Cosmetics also launched its first standalone express brow bar Brows A Go-Go in London on July 1, offering speedy brow treatments.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Cherry on Top

WHY CHOOSE

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News

diarydates // September 15 Innovative Beauty Conference Castle Hotel, Windsor New one-day conference, followed by Babtac and Cibtac Awards. 01452 623110 babtac.com // September 29–30 Olympia Beauty Olympia, London Nail and beauty trade show with competitions and events. 01959 569867 olympiabeauty.co.uk // October 5–7 Salon International ExCeL, London The UK’s top exhibition for hairdressing professionals, comprising seminars, competitions and live stages. 020 7351 0536 salonshow.co.uk

// October 13–14 Professional Beauty North EventCity, Manchester The largest beauty exhibition in the North, with a packed education line-up and networking opportunities. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/ north // October 15–16 Independent Hotel Show Olympia, London Event for boutique hotels with special events. 020 7351 0536 independenthotelshow.co.uk // October 15–17 Global Wellness Summit Grand Hyatt, Hong Kong International conference for spa and wellness professionals. +1 212 716 1199 globalwellnesssummit.com // November 11–12 Spa Life Hilton Doubletree, Coventry Conference and meetings forum for UK spas and suppliers. 01268 745892 spa-life.eu

Celluma launches Level 4 LED certificate in the UK Light therapy devices brand Celluma is now offering training to therapists in the UK. The accredited Celluma Light Therapy Training covers the principles of light therapy, understanding the science behind the technology, safety and contraindications, clinical applications and integration into treatments. Upon completion, students will receive a Level 4 LED Training Certification from Wynward Aesthetics

Academy, which is running the training. The course is worth 60 CPD points and is open to both those who own a Celluma device and those who don’t, at a higher cost to non-users.

Crystal-infused brand Zephorium opens first salon Holistic product and treatment brand Zephorium has opened its first branded salon. Zephorium Soul Tonic Positive Health and Beauty is a two-treatment room

site in Petersfield, Hampshire, that offers “healthy” treatments, such as facials and massages using the brand’s crystal-infused and chakracoded product range. Also on the menu are machinebased facials by CACI and Environ, hair removal, lash and brow treatments, and energy-alignment therapy. Clients can also visit the salon for counselling with Zephorium founder Sarah Cox, who is also a counsellor and energy therapist.

Gentlemen’s Tonic announces exclusive UK distributor Men’s grooming and skincare brand Gentlemen’s Tonic has entered into an exclusive UK and Ireland distribution deal with Vilasa, which specialises in distributing luxury organic and natural beauty products to the spa, hotel and retail markets. Vilasa will position the UK-made brand at high-end hotel spa level, starting with the introduction of Gentlemen’s Tonic into the recently opened Langley Hotel and Spa in Buckinghamshire. Gentlemen’s Tonic director Olivier Bonnefoy commented, “The Vilasa team bring both energy and unparalleled experience to the sector

and will help to put the company and its award-winning products very much at the forefront of the fastgrowing men’s spa and advanced skincare market.”

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Advertorial Versatile SBC Moisturising Gels Our signature formula was created by therapists for therapists. With the needs of the professional at the forefront of our development, we created a product that works hard alongside your staff and helps to reduce cost within the treatment room. Our Gels are so versatile, you can include them in every treatment on your menu. They look bright and vibrant on a trolley and are easy to navigate for therapists. With a wide selection of powerful ingredients, we have ensured that every treatment can be tailored to the individual client. Maximise SBC Gel usage across your treatments: • As a moisturiser in facials for combination and oilier skin types • As a bespoke hydrating mask during facials or back treatments • As a professional tool to work alongside popular machines i.e. galvanic, nonsurgical facelift toning and IPL • To target your client’s skin needs – slimming, toning, nourishing, clearing, energising, balancing, calming and soothing • As a serum during facials to boost the effectiveness of your moisturisers • A great way to end pedicures with a light, uplifting, grease-free moisturiser • As a cuticle conditioner in both manicure, pedicure and artificial nail treatments

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As skincare professionals, we know that external aggressors damage the skins protective hydrolipidic film and contribute to transepidermal water loss, resulting in excess dryness, wrinkles and dehydration. SBC selected and sourced the key ingredient Green Caviar which has been deemed ‘the new super food of the ocean’, in line with the green living approach that is changing skincare across the nation.

Waxing is the ‘bread and butter’ treatment in over 90% of salons nationwide. This treatment is guaranteed to secure repeat bookings throughout the year, yet it is one of the areas lacking in luxury. The SBC Wax/Hair Removal Kit changes this perception with superb quality products, designed for both the face and body, with ingredients that tailor the treatment to individual skin types. Clients will find themselves looking forward to their wax treatment, as opposed to dreading it!

Packing a powerful punch of amino acids, which directly impacts collagen production in the skin, this is the new go-to ingredient for anti-ageing benefits. The Green Caviar collection also helps to detoxify and gives the skins moisture levels a boost, hitting 3 of the most common skin complaints in the salon: breakouts, dehydration and ageing! The Green Caviar range will support regeneration of new, healthy skin cells and help improve the skins overall appearance. A superb trio which will cover all of your client skin types and deliver results that will guarantee satisfaction!

• Lemon Myrtle & Thyme Cream Body Polish Helps to reduce bacteria and skin reactions • Aloe Vera Skincare Gel Dramatically soothes and cools the skin • Propolis Skincare Gel Soothes the skin and helps to reduce the risk of spotty post-wax breakouts

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Digital

professional

beauty .co.uk We take a look inside PB’s digital world

Justyna Rostek (@guinot_ sw18): Thank you for a great networking event @pro_beauty01. In fact it was so great I forgot to take any pictures. Feeling inspired and motivated going back to the salon after meeting so many inspiring women.

Hot topic Claire Duff Beauty (@ClaireDuffBeau1): Exactly my aim when I started my own business! @pro_beauty #belfast #buildingbeautifulskin

Should the Government ban injectables for under 18s? Alexandra Goodier, business coach, commented: “Since the industry does not appear to be successful at self-regulation, there needs to be strong legislation with strong penalties. There are way too many doing this without proper qualifications.” Nuno de Gois, a beauty and massage therapist, commented: “If a therapist was good and didn’t think only of the profits, they should also be able to tell a client if they don’t think they should be doing this treatment. I have worked with many young women, who after doing fillers for one year, regretted having them done.”

THIS MONTH WE ASKED YOU… Do you think your spa/salon is doing enough to be environmentally friendly?

Hot topic

The problem with “well-washing” in the spa industry Maleka Dattu, owner of Merumaya Skincare, commented: “Yes! [Wellness] is like every other term created and hijacked by companies wanting to make money, look good and seem as though they actually care. None have any global standard. All have been exploited at the expense of women, generally.”

24% YES

76% NO

Follow Professional Beauty… @pro_beauty01 and the team: @eveoxberry @mini_pauley @georgeseago @katsjonouchi

@pro_beauty facebook.com/ProfessionalBeautyUK uk.linkedin.com/in/professionalbeauty youtube.com/user/1ProBeauty professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Social Surgery

Correct

CONTENT Struggling to figure out why your social media is not working? PB’s social media editor Chris Halpin explains algorithms, and some tricks to help use them to your benefit

nderstanding what does and doesn’t work on

commentary and will want to push that post to more

any social media platform can, at times, seem

people to encourage even more.

like a dark art. That’s because behind the scenes of every social media website there’s a complex

Video remains the leader

algorithm working to determine a post’s quality.

Something I’ve previously touched on in these columns

Using a number of factors, that algorithm

is the importance of video on social media. Despite

decides whether your post is “good enough”

algorithms being regularly updated, video content

to take prime spot in a timeline. It’s no surprise that the exact science of what these

continually performs better than all other types. Video is the perfect opportunity to allow your audience to

algorithms are looking for has never been revealed –

build a relationship with you before they’ve even come in to

otherwise we’d all have perfect posts every time. But

your salon or spa. It also ticks the “meaningful content” box as

thankfully, there’s now plenty of practical evidence to

it’s most likely to encourage people to comment and interact.

suggest what kind of things work well. Here’s a few of them to help your business get ahead.

Learn to love new features Other than video, when social media platforms update their

Get the right kind of engagement

algorithms there aren’t many things that remain a constant

Facebook looks for “meaningful content” to push to the

because there’s usually a shift to focus on new features.

news feed. Simply put, this means content that is likely to

Given the time put in to developing these features, it’s no

generate the “right” kind of engagement from people.

surprise that social platforms reward those who use them.

This means avoiding “engagement baiting” tactics.

Instagram’s IGTV is a prime example. Earlier this year,

Telling people to “Like/share if you agree…” might seem

the platform introduced a feature that allows you to

like an easy way to get a fast engagement boost but

post a one-minute preview of an IGTV video to your grid.

Facebook’s algorithm is smart to phrases like this: they’re

These videos regularly draw in up to four times the views

read as spam and are marked down.

of a normal video posted to the grid.

Instead, aim to create content that will spark

Similarly, there’s evidence that Facebook Stories are

comment or conversation. If you’re posting photos of

performing well for those who use them. While they’re

a treatment or nail art, ask a relevant question in the

nowhere near as popular as Instagram Stories yet, Facebook

text of the post. If the image alongside it is good, you’ll

continues to push them strongly – implying they’re not going

get engagement from people “liking” the image and

away anytime soon. Adopting them now, when the market

commenting as well. Facebook will see you’ve sparked

is less crowded, could be an easy win for your business. PB

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Industry Events

Out About

Behind the scenes at all the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty and spa

IIAA SALON OF THE YEAR AWARDS 2019 KIMPTON FITZROY HOTEL, BLOOMSBURY, LONDON Distributor IIAA (International Institute for Anti-Ageing) hosted its annual awards in June. Guest speaker Dr Adriana Marais, physicist and Mars One Project astronaut candidate, spoke about developments in science and technology before the winners were announced. Salon of the Year went to Tessa Stevens Health and Beauty Clinic for the UK and Monica Tolan’s Beauty Clinic for Ireland; Therapist of the Year was Louise Sumner; Salon of Excellence winners were Ro Skin (Platinum); Rebecca Jade Beauty & Aesthetics (Gold); Blomstra (Silver); and High Maintenance (Bronze). Small Business Game Changer awards went to Beauty Booth for Ireland and Nechelle Beauty for UK; and Large Business Game Changer went to Calm Health and Beauty for UK and The Skin Nerd for Ireland. Finally, Best Newcomer for UK & Ireland was HM Beauty.

KUKU GIRLS AND CND AT DOWNLOAD FESTIVAL DONNINGTON PARK, DERBY Fans of rock (and mud) descended on Download festival in June, where The KuKu Girls – the team from West Kirby salon KuKu Hair & Beauty – were a hit backstage, creating bespoke nail art for the bands and VIPs using CND and Lecenté products. One standout style was created for Jennie Vee, bass player in Eagles of Death Metal, who went for CND Black Pool with Lecenté’s new Clearly Oil Slick Foil over the top for a rock chick look. The KuKu Girls themselves rocked metal-themed styles for inspiration, including band logos across multiple nails.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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10/07/2019 09:49

25 Industry Events

GLOBAL WELLNESS DAY LOCATIONS AROUND THE WORLD The UK got behind Global Wellness Day (GWD) in a bigger way this year, as new ambassador Paul Gerrard, director of Gerrard International, organised a wellness walk with staff and locals, through Elstree and Borehamwood, Hertfordshire. He also joined the celebrations at Gaia Spa in Devon, whose owner Diane Nettleton ran a free yoga session overlooking Newquay’s Fistral Beach. Other activities around the country included taster fitness sessions at Four Seasons Hotel in Hampshire and Rosewood London. Further afield, standards body Cidesco coordinated an international step challenge, where 100 of its students, ambassadors and board members around the world achieved a total of 613,945 steps, equivalent to 307 miles.

ALPHASCIENCE AT EF MEDISPA LAUNCH SANDERSON LONDON Skincare brand AlphaScience and aesthetic clinic group EF Medispa invited beauty press, including PB features editor Georgia Seago, to a breakfast launch to introduce the brand. It will initially be stocked exclusively at EF Medispa clinics and online before rolling out elsewhere. EF Medispa founder Esther Fieldgrass told guests why she wanted to work with the products and what she loves most about them, before AlphaScience founder Julien Revol gave a presentation on the brand, its skincare ethos and the formulations. Guests then filled in a questionnaire to be matched with their ideal products from the range, in which there are three serums and two creams.

ACNE 101 – BEATING ACNE SUCCESSFULLY HEALTH & AESTHETIC CLINIC, SHOOTER’S HILL, LONDON Educational platform and treatment directory Black Skin Directory held an evening of education in recognition of Acne Awareness Month in June. The event was designed to explore the unique impact acne can have on skin of colour, such as inflammatory hyperpigmentation and keloid scarring. After nibbles and drinks, Dr Bhavjit Kaur, clinical director of Health & Aesthetic Clinic, gave guests a presentation on acne with a particular focus on managing the condition in dark skins with professional treatments and homecare. Guests then toured the facilities and took part in a Q&A session.

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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29 Business Trends

Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market

Insider

beauty

Primark

This month, we asked therapists up and down the country to confess the funniest things that have happened to them during treatment, and boy, did you reveal some corkers. More than a quarter (26%) admitted to walking in on a client while they were still starkers, causing a cringe-worthy situation, while being found sneakily texting your mate while your client has got their face mask on came in a close second (19%). Other embarrassing scenarios included singing along out loud to the “relaxing whale sounds” soundtrack that’s playing during treatment (14%) and accidentally getting toenail clippings or dust in your mouth during a pedi (17%) – eww. Meanwhile, when it comes to the biggest challenges facing the market, 46% of you said you’re still struggling with the beauty salon price war and another 22% think lack of regulation is now the biggest problem. On page 62, we explore the issue of whether therapists should stop applying topical anaesthetic.

On the spot Which of these embarrassing things have you done during treatment? 1. Walk back in the room when the client’s naked 2. Text a friend when your client’s mask is on 3. Get nail dust/clippings in your mouth during a pedi 4. Make the other therapist laugh during a couples’ treatment

66%

June 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JUNE 2019 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2018?

58% 37% 5% BETTER

would like staff to undergo dementiaawareness training

What do you think is the biggest issue facing the salon market? 1. Competing with budget salons 2. Lack of regulation 3. Pro brands focusing on retail market 4. Mobile businesses taking salons’ custom

Take part in our Insider feature Want to have your say on the beauty industry? Take part in our Insider feature and you’ll be rewarded with a £20 voucher to spend at the next Professional Beauty show you attend. Sign up at: professionalbeauty.co.uk/insider

SAME

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

53% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JUNE 2019 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2018?

32% 56% 12% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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10/07/2019 10:30

Business Trends

Insider

spa

On the spot Which of these embarrassing things have you done during treatment? 1. Make the other therapist laugh during a couples’ treatment 2. Walk back in the room when the client’s naked 3. Get nail dust/clippings in your mouth during a pedi

M&Co

With more people suffering with dementia than ever before, now is the time to make your spa an inclusive space that the local community can be proud of – a place where people with the condition can feel comfortable. This is why two thirds (67%) of you are looking to invest in dementiaawareness training for staff. Turn to page 72 for top tips on who to train with and how to tailor your experience. The therapist shortage and ongoing struggle to retain staff is such an issue that you claim it’s now the biggest challenge facing the industry. The quality of beauty and spa training was also cited as a concern, with many feeling that it doesn’t match employers’ needs or show the breadth of career growth available in the industry. Find out more about challenges facing UK spa directors on page 8.

June 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JUNE 2019 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2018?

61% 29% 10% BETTER

67%

WORSE

AVERAGE TREATMENT ROOM OCCUPANCY

would like staff to undergo dementia-awareness training

What do you think is the biggest issue facing the spa market? 1. The ongoing recruitment crisis 2. Lack of regulation 3. Quality of training

SAME

68% HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JUNE 2019 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2018?

69% BETTER

29%

2% WORSE

SAME

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Insider

nails

It’s been a busy month for nail techs, with treatment bookings up on last year’s figures as clients get themselves holiday-ready. Evenings are your busiest time for appointments (41%), but you’ve noted a steady increase in afternoon bookings too (39%), and make sure you have the most techs working in the latter part of the day. Embellishments are undergoing a resurgence, with more than half (60%) of you reporting an increase in clients wanting crystal nail art, while pearls (8%), transfer foils (8%) and studs (2%) are also growing in popularity. With vegan beauty becoming more mainstream, just under a third (29%) of you have also invested in vegan nail polish so you can cater to all clients. Find out what the hottest nail trends for autumn/winter will be on page 64.

On the spot Which is your most popular nail embellishment? 1. Crystals 2. Pearls 3. Transfer foils 4. Studs

Accessorize

Business Trends

June 2019 in numbers HOW DID TREATMENT BUSINESS IN JUNE 2019 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2018?

50% 44% 6%

stock vegan nail polish

BETTER

SAME

WORSE

NAIL TREATMENTS PERFORMED ON AVERAGE PER WEEK Which time of day is most popular for your nail appointments? 1. Evening (6pm–9pm) 2. Afternoon (1pm–5pm) 3. Morning (9am–12pm)

METHODOLOGY Insider is compiled from a monthly survey of spas and beauty salons. The people who participated represent a crosssection of the industry and were polled by email from June 28 to July 5, regarding business for the month to June 30. Nail business for the Insider Nails page was calculated from data provided by spas and salons that offer nail services among other treatments. The figures given represent the average score for each answer. Brands are ranked when mentioned by several respondents.

24 HOW DID RETAIL BUSINESS IN JUNE 2019 COMPARE WITH JUNE 2018?

20% 65% 15% BETTER

WORSE

SAME

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SET YOUR STUDENTS UP FOR CAREER SUCCESS What’s on for colleges on Monday 14th October EDUCATION FORUM Discuss with leading employers and specialists how to get students into the industry

Bring 50+ students for a free Education Forum ticket plus a £20 voucher to spend at the show Email colleges@professionalbeauty.co.uk to register a group of students

INSPIRATION & TRAINING Seminars for just £1 per session for lecturers and students DO YOUR STUDENTS HAVE WHAT IT TAKES? Win £1,000 by entering your students into the College Cup EXCLUSIVE LECTURER BENEFITS Free refreshments and drinks reception in the lounges DISCOUNTED COACH HIRE 50% off coach hire, courtesy of

Register for free tickets at www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/collegetickets #PBNorth @pro_beauty ProfessionalBeautyUK pro_beauty01

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Ward’s World

A war on

ROOM rental With room and chair rental becoming increasingly common, HELLEN WARD asks, how can traditional salons retain their employees and their competitive advantage?

hile teaching my recent Business Bootcamps to hair and beauty salon owners at L’Oréal’s Leeds Academy, an increasingly familiar topic was raised by the delegates: what to do about the growing popularity of chair and room rental. How to stop the turning tide of salon owners resorting to making the whole workforce self-employed. And, most importantly, how to compete when the local salons are offering such deals in this crowded space we play in. With the Great British high street in freefall, this complex issue is undoubtedly on the increase. So why do salon owners resort to these measures? Often, it’s because an accountant (who doesn’t understand our labour-intensive payroll rates) advises that we could cut tax costs and HMRC liabilities if we go down this route.

Cost it out Without insider knowledge, they might assume this is good advice, but there’s little use comparing ourselves to other sectors – our payroll is our biggest expense and we’re always going to be paying more to retain revenue-producing team members. It’s our industry’s business model. Or, perhaps more worryingly, it could be a way to evade VAT, with chair and room rental income halving turnover to keep salons and operators under the threshold. Either way, in my opinion, it’s not a solution. Self-employed contractors aren’t under a boss’s control because they aren’t team members. They needn’t comply with any company regulations like working hours, pricing or payment methods, nor adhere to company rules. And you can’t demand compliance because you’re not their employer. Quite simply, if people are properly self-employed, they don’t work for the salon owner – they work for themselves.

Treating them like they’re still staff will undoubtedly displease the taxman, who may ask for his employer’s NI, tax and VAT liabilities back (with interest on top). And restricting your growth to stay under a tax threshold is nonsensical. Of course, this also means that the precious CPD (continuing professional development) that shapes our teams doesn’t apply either. How can you create a meaningful company ethos through people who simply don’t work for you? You can’t.

Plan for growth Making team members self-employed is a dangerous path to tread. So, if you’re contemplating it, think carefully. It’s not a business-building strategy – it’s merely a business model where the salon owner effectively becomes the landlord. That’s no way to build a brand. The answer is commission-related pay – creating a salary structure where people are driven to achieve within the safety and security of proper employment. If people are incentivised to feel like they’ll gain from strong performance they’ll go the extra mile, so they (and you) will benefit. Offering solid, strong employment in challenging economic times equals security. Parental leave, paid holiday (with commission averaged over the preceding 12 weeks paid too), workplace pensions, minimum wage – these are all perks of being an employee, and are lost the minute someone becomes nothing more than a glorified tenant. In difficult times, nothing beats the security of a safe job. It’s time we treated this as something we value and take pride in. PB

Hellen Ward is managing director of Richard Ward Hair & Metrospa in London, one of the most profitable independent salons in the UK. She is beauty ambassador for The National Beauty Federation (NBF). Send your feedback to hellen@professionalbeauty.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Ask the Experts

ask

the EXPERTS Our experts answer an array of questions about every aspect of running a successful salon or spa business

I have a real problem with “no-shows”. How can I enforce a fair cancellation policy? No-shows and last-minute cancellations come along in any service industry, but in beauty and nails, especially for self-employed professionals, it could mean losing quite a lot of income. Of course, there are always going to be unexpected situations where late cancellation is unavoidable, but a policy must be set in place by your business to minimise it. The first step is to get a picture of how many no-shows or late cancellations are taking place on average per month to calculate the loss, analyse the days of the week it happens the most and work out if it is the same clients consistently not showing. The second step is to make sure you have a simple policy and clearly communicate it to every client at the point of booking, as well as on the website, on business and appointment cards, and across all your social media platforms. For example, you might choose to take card details on booking, and state that if the cancellation is made with less than 24 hours’ notice and you cannot fill the appointment, you will charge the full treatment cost. You could also say, “If you arrive more than 10 minutes late, we will not be able spend the time we need to give you a proper service; however, you will still be charged the full cost of the appointment.” Having professional salon management software is particularly beneficial because it will do all the work for you – collect reports, flag regular no-show clients, allow you take the deposit for treatments with manual and online bookings, and securely store payment details.

The third step is communication and customer service. Building a relationship with clients and going the extra mile to make them feel special will practically solve the no-show problem. Reminders via SMS and email a few days prior to the appointment, including a recap of your cancellation policy, will help reduce the problem. In extreme cases, you can ask for a full-cost prepayment for treatments, especially during busy times. This will help to reduce loss of business.

Nataliya Al-Ta’ai is a global team education ambassador for CND, which is distributed by Sweet Squared. She has more than 20 years’ industry experience.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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10/07/2019 09:53

42 Ask the Experts

My client has acne. Can vitamin A help calm the issue?

What are the options for funding my first salon business? Owning and operating a beauty salon is a rewarding venture, but there are challenges that you will face along the way, with funding being the biggest hurdle. One initial challenge is calculating the finances needed to open your salon. You’ll have to fork out money for upfront and operating costs, and it could still be a few months or even a year before you start making a profit. The average beauty salon can cost anything up to £35,000 to start up, and if you don’t have decent savings, you may need to consider a loan. The main costs to factor in are rent, business rates, marketing, training, insurance, water and electricity, stock, salaries and equipment. Some of the struggles first-time salon owners face when applying for loans can include: difficult approval processes, lengthy turnaround on pay-outs, not being approved for the full amount, and hidden set-up and admin fees. However, banks are not your only option. You could look for investors, apply for a government grant, or look into collateral-free SME loans. With the right SME loan, you can expect a 24-hour application approval and pay-out time, and in most instances, you can borrow anything from £1,000 to £500,000, so you should be able to find a level to suit your start-up. Whichever route you choose, consider all the costs involved and only apply for loans that Alice Farren is a financial journalist and SME specialist don’t tie you in to unrealistic at SME Loans, a business terms, provided by lenders that credit brokerage that works have your best interests as a with start-ups and SMEs. business owner at heart.

Vitamin A is the ideal tool for helping to tackle blemish-prone skin as it is able to normalise how cells renew themselves. This means it can stop your client’s pores from becoming clogged with shedding skin cells, which can lead to blemishes. In my opinion, retinaldehyde is the best form of vitamin A for blemish-prone skin types. It’s the only form with direct antibacterial properties (as shown in the study The antibacterial activity of topical retinoids: the case of retinaldehyde, published in the journal Dermatology in 2002). This means retinaldehyde is able to limit the bacteria that causes blemishes, called P. acnes. It’s best to introduce vitamin A into a skincare routine slowly. Start with a low concentration of retinaldehyde, the type used in products including Medik8’s Crystal Retinal, so as not to overwhelm the skin with high levels of vitamin A. Once your client is comfortable on lower strengths, they can begin to up the concentration of retinaldehyde. For the first month of using the vitamin A, you should phase the product into a skincare routine. For the first two weeks, get them to use it twice a week in the evening, and for the second two weeks, use it every other evening. After that, they can begin using it every night. This phase-in process helps to minimise any irritation that may be caused by introducing vitamin A too quickly into a skincare routine.

Daniel Isaacs is director of research at Medik8. He has developed more than 90 formulations and is the inventor of two patents in skin brightening.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS? Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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47 Interview

Talking to...

Kayley Cairns

PB’s Nail Professional of the Year 2019 tells Eve Oxberry what it takes to make it as a nail artist and why the industry needs to wake up to the growing issue of contact allergies

uilding a successful career in nail art is the dream for most creative techs, but all too often client demand for gel-polish and basic French gets in the way. For Kayley Cairns, owner of Essex salon The Nail Boutique and Professional Beauty’s Nail Professional of the Year 2019, making a name as the go-to woman for every type of nail art happened almost by accident. After qualifying, she trained with CND, where she got introduced to its glitter Rock Star Nail finishes. “I’m not a girly girl and always though glitter was tacky so I refused to do it at first, but eventually I gave it a go and I loved it,” she says. “That made me start experimenting with different mediums and the more I did the more my clients asked for

it. Before long, that’s what I got known for – around 80% of my clients have some sort of nail art now.” Almost a decade later, Cairns is teaching nail art regularly as part of the Hazel Dixon Nail Academy team, while still treating clients in her salon, where she works alone. She also runs courses for KUPA, Akzentz Gels and the brand new Swarovski Crystal Beauty Academy, where she works alongside renowned session tech Marian Newman.

Winning formula Cairns’s incredibly detailed nail art was also among the skills that wowed the judges at this year’s >

professionalbeauty.co.uk

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Interview

Professional Beauty Awards, where Cairns scooped the Nail Professional of the Year prize. “For me, it’s always been the award to aim for since I got into the industry, because my idols have won it in the past,” she says. Previous winners have included session tech Jenni Draper, nail artist Kirsty Meakin and academy owner Hazel Dixon. “I’ve had loads of people approach me since winning, especially for training, because they want to learn from the winner,” adds Cairns, who made the finals twice before eventually winning this year. “You learn so much from the process because you only have a set amount of time, so you’ve got to practise a lot,” she adds. “I’m much faster in salon as a result of competing. Because I’ve been working alone, I’d never had anyone pushing me to speed up before doing awards and competitions so, ultimately, it’s made my treatments more profitable.”

classes to qualify. I did Level 2 Beauty Therapy but was disappointed by how basic the nails element was,” she says. On qualifying. Cairns went to work in a salon and did a little bit of mobile work, but says the turning point in her career came when she attended Sweet Squared’s “The Event” later in 2010, at which the distributor introduced Shellac into the UK. “That changed everything; I was suddenly in demand because if you didn’t get Shellac at that event, you wouldn’t get it for another nine months. Everyone was coming to me – clients wanting to try it and techs wanting to train in it – because they’d all heard the buzz about it,” says Cairns. “I honestly think if that hadn’t come out I might not still be doing nails today.” Cairns’s skills improved so quickly she applied to be a CND educator the following year. “I’d only been doing nails for 12 months so I never expected to get through and couldn’t believe my luck when I did,” she says. Two years later, Cairns opened her own salon, Nail Boutique, in Billericay, Essex, where she works alone. Despite being so busy that she’s recently stopped accepting new clients, Cairns has no plans to take on any staff. “I tried sharing the space with another tech but it didn’t work because if she was in there with a client, my clients weren’t as relaxed and open with me,” she says. “Billericay is a small town and a lot of clients tell me personal details about their marriages or illness – things they’re not going to say if there are other people in the room.”

The best way to learn is by teaching; you learn so much faster and think about things in a different way

Starting over Nails is a second career for Cairns, who developed an interest by doing manis for her family while on maternity leave from her job as a nursery nurse. “I went back to work and did night

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Interview

Cairns also uses the space for training, and ran CND natural nails courses there for five years. “Because they had another CND educator in Essex, I couldn’t train their other systems,” she explains. “I wanted to grow and the best way to learn is by teaching; you learn so much faster and think about things in a different way.” Having met Hazel Dixon at trade shows and admired her work, she was Cairns’s first port of call when looking to move, and she’s now been a trainer for the Hazel Dixon Nail Art Academy for two and a half years. “I loved working for Sweet Squared but being part of a smaller team suits my personality better. I now teach absolutely everything to do with nails from novice level right through to masters, teaching all systems but particularly nail art.”

Social scene Having specialised in nail art for almost a decade now, Cairns says she’s witnessed major changes in the styles clients are asking for. “3D gel is certainly something I’m getting asked for more now as you get a different look than with 3D acrylic. Acrylic design is really popular though, particularly marble and rainbow looks; basically, anything the Kardashians have,” she says. “Most clients now come in with pictures of things they’ve seen online, often something a celebrity has posted on Instagram. Sometimes I recreate designs because that’s an opportunity to credit the original artist, tag them and maybe get a conversation going. But more often,

I’ll add my own twist to make it unique to the client.” When it comes to pricing her art, Cairns says a quick phone consultation ahead of the appointment is the best way. “That way, I can work out how much time it will take as I charge by time – £5 per 15 minutes,” she says. “If it’s something really detailed like character faces I’ll also need to factor in time to practise beforehand.” But the rise of nail art is not all positive. Cairns says she has witnessed a huge increase in contact allergies – both among consumers and fellow techs. And while home-use gel-polish kits often get the blame, she says it’s also down to people mixing incompatible acrylic nail art brands. “If a new product comes out, people buy it wherever they can get it fastest and cheapest,” she says. “A lot of these new brands selling coloured powders don’t even have a liquid to go with them. They tell you any liquid will work but it doesn’t. Regardless of the system, if you’re mixing products that aren’t compatible you might never get a full cure, so the client could be walking around for weeks in contact with uncured product, then when it comes to filing that off, all the dust we’re creating is also uncured product, and that’s the cause of allergies.” PB

KEY DATES 2009 Cairns qualifies with a Level 2 in Beauty Therapy then trains with CND 2010 Attends S2’s The Event and is among the first in the UK to get Shellac 2011 Begins educating in natural nails for CND 2013 Opens her one-room salon, The Nail Boutique, in Billericay, Essex 2017 Completes Level 3 teacher training course and joins Hazel Dixon Nail Art Academy as an educator 2019 Wins Professional Beauty Award for Nail Professional of the Year and joins the Swarovski Crystal Beauty Academy team

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All photos: Paul Khera

Launch Analysis

The ultimate

beauty DESTINATION?

Urban Retreat has opened its first standalone flagship The White House in London, promising to deliver the best beauty, health and wellbeing treatments. AMANDA PAULEY asks: does it live up to the hype?

ith so many businesses promising to be a one-stopshop for clients’ health, beauty and wellness needs, it can be a challenge delivering this promise and doing it authentically. Pledging to do it bigger and better than anyone else in the industry is Urban Retreat at The White House, which opened in Knightsbridge, London, in July. Spread across five floors, the luxury spa and salon operator’s first-ever standalone (previously it was situated within Harrods department store) is nothing short of impressive, offering traditional and medical beauty treatments as well as edgier services such as tattooing and piercing, by the best people in the business. All of this is set within a stunning townhouse that feels more like a home than a salon, with marble fireplaces and comfy lounges. “The White House has been designed to be this totally integrated place where beauty meets hospitality. Urban Retreat’s philosophy is about convenience and quality, with trusted therapists and a curated edit of brands, all under one roof. There isn’t anybody else who does that on this scale, which is what will set us apart,” explains managing director Reena Hammer. Covering health, nutrition and wellbeing, the flagship hosts a large array of facilities including a Cleanse Clinic in the basement offering blood and intolerance testing, infrared saunas, a private studio for yoga, meditation and personal training; contouring treatments and colonic hydrotherapy; while the ground floor comprises

destination restaurant Flavour, a barbershop, and a large retail and make-up service area. The first floor is home to hair stylist Frédéric Fekkai’s salon and a large nail studio in partnership with CND; while the second floor is focused on medical beauty with laser hair removal, an IV lounge, three tattoo and piercing rooms, and access to specialists including dermatologists, acupuncturists, podiatrists and gynaecologists in five treatment rooms. The third floor offers more traditional beauty services such as brows, waxing, facials and massage in six spacious rooms.

Breaking free This elaborate offering is on the same scale as many of the luxurious private members’ clubs that have been opening in the city, which all come with a hefty annual fee, but Urban Retreat won’t be following suit. “We’ve never been a membership space so why would I charge somebody for the privilege to come here? I want an inclusive energy,” explains Hammer. Going solo is a bold move for the company, which used to be based in London’s luxury department store Harrods until its fifteen-year partnership ended in 2018. “It was the right time for both companies to walk away. Harrods wanted to

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run its own beauty business and that’s where the challenge Nichols or Space NK will have them. To make a was because we’ve done it for so long so it was like, ‘well, we product desirable, you should have to work to have a right to be here’,” explains Hammer. “We’ve been find it.” The brands stocked at The White House around long enough that we knew we didn’t need to go include UK exclusives Haute Custom Beauty back into a department store environment to create this and Frederic Fekkai’s The One haircare range. new space. We had the confidence to do it ourselves.” Some of these brands will be performing The move was also about Urban Retreat being in charge exclusive treatments in the flagship for a limited of its own destiny. “Harrods is an amazing store but when time, and some could become menu staples. you work with somebody else you can’t just say, ‘I want “We’re bringing in people who are amazing to do this’, there will always be restrictions,” she says. experts in their field, which is a draw for clients, For example, five years ago, Urban Retreat asked the while also allowing us to try their protocols department store for online and gauge the response,” booking but it was something says Hammer. “If things work that they couldn’t make work. then it’s a scalable way to Opened: July 2019 Plus, Hammer wanted a put the brand’s treatments Size: 12,500sq ft premise that reflected Urban in as a more permanent offer.” Staff: 50 (including 10 beauty Retreat’s “intimate” philosophy. The standalone opened therapists) “Harrods has got a major footfall with 50 employees split across Number of brands: Up to 50, covering which is amazing but, and I beauty, hair, front of house, skincare, make-up and jewellery don’t mean this negatively, it nail techs, MUAs, retail and was kind of a luxurious train restaurant staff, but the plan station,” says Hammer. “It was reflected in the volumes is to increase this number to 100 by Christmas. we were doing. We serviced 20,000 customers a month Urban Retreat’s business plan works to a there, so you didn’t get to fully understand what they three-and-a-half year payback on return on liked. It missed the personal touch.” investment but Hammer has said there will

Going against the grain Urban Retreat has completely transformed its retail area in this new space, moving away from the big companies and offering a curated edit of up to 50 skincare, make-up and jewellery brands that you would struggle to find anywhere else. “We’ve got niche stuff and a lot of exclusives from places like America and Spain. It makes our retail selection special,” explains Hammer. “As much as I love the big brands we used to work with, there’s no point stocking them because Harrods, Harvey

be an element of reinvestment on the cards, whether that’s future building work or buying new equipment. “The dream is not just to have a standalone Urban Retreat here in London but to be able to deliver this size and scale of business in other cities and countries. Something like this would work in Manchester or Edinburgh, or we could even take it to a Paris or New York type environment,” says Hammer. “The goal is to settle in here first and go from there.” PB

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08/04/2019 16:21

Trend Watch

Fit

the BILL

With clients looking for a 360-degree approach to health and wellbeing, collaborating with a fitness practitioner could broaden your spa’s offering and bring in new revenue. Amanda Pauley explores the rise of fitness residences in spas

ith the fitness industry worth close to £5 billion, according to Leisure DB’s 2018 State of the UK Fitness Industry Report, it seems Brits are investing in a healthy and balanced lifestyle more than ever before. The popularity of gym memberships and the ClassPass phenomenon, for example, have grown in line with the wellness movement, with people understanding the importance of both for taking care of mind, body and soul. The power of the wellness and fitness industries to improve mental as well as physical wellbeing has become better understood, giving rise to a fusion of lifestyle-integrated services and solutions that team impeccable spa treatments with access to first-class fitness instructors, nutritionists and work-life balance coaching. As such, the collaboration of fitness and spa to provide a fully integrated 360-degree approach to wellness has truly developed. Whether it’s spas working with fitness practitioners to develop boot camp-style programmes that enhance a client’s retreat results, or establishing fitness residences in partnership with exercise titans to deliver spaces where

health, fitness and spa are one combined offering, the two industries are now very much intertwined. But what are the financial benefits of these relationships? Well, having a well-thought-out fitness element not only broadens a spa’s offering and boosts treatment results, but helps make use of underutilised treatment rooms and introduces a new revenue opportunity, making the business a lot more profitable. For fitness practitioners, many want an Instagrammable space to rent or a reputable wellness company to collaborate with, so teaming up with a big spa name could really raise their profile. It also gives these experts access to a new client base, some of which may not have felt comfortable in a gym environment but could benefit from one-to-one personal training, becoming loyal customers in the future. It really is a win-win situation. Are you thinking of bringing a fitness element into your business? Take some inspiration from these spa-fitness partnerships. PB

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Champneys Super-Ager Fitness Retreat with Wayne Lèal, Tring Spa group Champneys has partnered with health coach Wayne Lèal on a fitness programme that combats age-related issues such as weight gain and low energy levels. The retreat helps older clients take ownership of their health, understanding that getting into shape in your 30s and 40s is different to the challenges you face in your 20s. The two-night retreat includes low-impact, high-calorie burn programmes Jumpga (rebounding and yoga hybrid) and Kun-aqua (like Tai-Chi in the water), alongside an intermittent fast. The programme is taking place at Tring throughout the year.

Trend Watch

Lanserhof at The Arts Club, London German medical spa brand Lanserhof has partnered with private members’ The Arts Club to offer an integrated approach to health and wellbeing. The medical gym uses high-end diagnostics to give clients a deeper understanding of their health, including an MRI scan to create an accurate body-composition analysis, cardiopulmonary exercise testing and an examination of any potential spine imbalances in the Spine Lab. This information is used to create bespoke lifestyle programmes for clients and sits alongside other facilities such as physiotherapy, cryotherapy and acupuncture to prevent sport injuries. The state-ofthe-art gym is kitted out with Technogym equipment.

Electro Muscle Stimulation at Grantley Hall, Yorkshire Grantley Hall is the first spa in the UK to offer Electro Muscle Stimulation (EMS) to clients as part of a 360-degree approach to wellness. The vest and belt equipment from Miha Bodytec strengthens the body while reducing fat, and uses technology that causes the major muscle groups to contract via an electrical current, causing more intense contractions than traditional training. EMS is teamed with a 20-minute, low-impact workout, which consists of a variety of body-weight exercises. It is offered as part of Grantley Hall’s Three Graces Spa or Elite experience.

Matt Roberts Gym at The Langley, Buckinghamshire The Langley has partnered with personal trainer Matt Roberts on a boutique gym where the goal is to offer a higher level training environment than other UK hotels, while also supporting the spa arm of the business. Clients can enjoy personal training sessions that incorporate a variety of disciplines such as strength, mobility, stretching and cardiovascular exercise, alongside hammam and body treatments in exclusive membership packages. Clients also have access to a full-body composition test which tracks their progress and monitors changes. The fitness pro is also launching Matt Roberts Retreats at The Langley later this year.

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Spa Focus

PERFECT

pairing

Creating a synergy between gym, studio and spa is no easy feat but Hand Picked Hotels has done it and is reaping the financial rewards. Group healthclub and spa manager Lesley Bacon reveals the secrets to the group’s success

aking fitness work in a traditional spa environment and creating an offering where both these sectors of the business support one another, upping revenue, can be tricky to pull off. One industry trailblazer is Hand Picked Hotels which, in its 19-strong hotel portfolio, has managed to create a synergy between gym, studio and spa in a number of its sites. But, how has the business achieved this and done it so successfully? Well, the group has worked hard to understand the needs of its core client groups – hotel guests, day spa visitors and members – in order to deliver exciting programmes and facilities that keep each of these paying customers happy. “We know that it’s our members who tend to use the gym, studio and thermal facilities in the spa the most, often bolting on treatments to their package to aid results. So, when developing our fitness or spa offering, we mainly think about these members and how it will enhance their experience,” says Lesley Bacon, group health club and spa manager at Hand Picked Hotels. “Meanwhile, our hotel guests mainly use the gym while our day spa guests tend to come for relaxation, using the pool and heat experiences and very rarely going for a workout. They have different needs.” This focused approach makes sense, especially when you look at the numbers for the Nutfield Priory Hotel & Spa

property in Redhill, Surrey, which has 1,300 members, and Brandshatch Place Hotel & Spa in Fawkham, which boasts a 1,200 strong-membership. “Fitness is something people really value, and for our guests we try to look for things that have longevity or a real wellbeing positioning, trying not to get involved with fads,” explains Bacon. “For our hotel guests, especially corporate clients, it’s important to factor in ease of use when picking equipment and facilities, making sure they’re not too complicated.”

New-age tech With technology making its way into several sectors, claiming to enhance user experiences, it was only a matter of time before the virtual world made an impact in spa and fitness too. At Brandshatch Place, the company is trialling a virtual studio programme, where an instructor projected on a screen takes clients through a workout without physically being there. “Virtual classes aren’t going to replace studio instructors but it can enhance our weekly fitness

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Spa Focus

programme by allowing us to put on classes where we wouldn’t normally be able to – in the ‘shoulder hours’. This benefits our members as it gives them more choice, and because it’s virtual, it doesn’t have as high costs as if an instructor was doing it,” she says. However, Bacon notes that to introduce this type of technology in your spa, you would need a decent-size studio because you need to project the class on to a wall. “If your studio is small, your customers might feel travel sick because they’re too close to the screen,” she adds. The business is currently gauging response from clients, as well as analysing the quality of the projection and class content, and will then decide whether to roll it out to further sites.

A cut above

Fitness is something people really value and for our guests we try to look for things that have a real wellbeing positioning

The hotel group is also aware that more clients want to reconnect to nature, after numerous studies have been released outlining the its benefits on physical and mental wellbeing. As such, the business is bringing the inside out as a way to meet client demand, from morning yoga classes and running clubs, to building some of its gyms near to areas on the properties that really lend themselves to going outside. “At our St Pierre Park Hotel, Spa & Golf Resort in Guernsey, we built our gym with a terrace so clients can open the doors and take the mats or equipment outside,” explains Bacon. “Plus, our instructors know our grounds well and understand which classes can and can’t be taken outside. For example, you can’t do a HIIT class in the height of British summertime because it’s too hot, whereas run clubs are perfect for all weathers as people don’t mind getting a bit muddy doing it – it’s part of the experience.” One of the reasons Hand Picked has executed an impressive fitness offering that enhances many of its spa treatments, is also down to the equipment it houses. Commercial fitness equipment supplier Matrix is in half of

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Hand Picked’s properties, having installed kit into New Hall Hotel, Wood Hall Hotel, Brandshatch Place, Nutfield Priory and Fawsley Hall, to name a few. “We chose Matrix because the company really listened to our brief and to what we needed. In some sites, our gym space isn’t huge, so we needed to work with somebody who understood the needs of our demographic and knew what is a good selection to offer without having one piece of kit dominate,” says Bacon. For example, Matrix has done installations on all three of the group’s hotels in the Channel Islands and Bacon was impressed with the way they handled it: “Some were tricky installs. The Channel Islands aren’t as easy as working on the mainland,” she explains. Other properties in the portfolio have presented access challenges too, with many being old country house hotels where equipment can’t be wheeled in through the front door. “For example, the gym in our Jersey property is underground and it was really hard to get the kit in to it. Matrix did site visits and worked out what we could get in and how, deciding which pieces needed to be broken down to get through the door, then rebuilding it onsite.” One of Hand Pick’s most popular pieces of equipment is the Versa Functional Trainer, which has incremental weight adjustment, a multi-grip pull-up bar and more. “It’s one piece of kit but you can do a multitude of exercises on it. In a hotel gym, that’s the kind of equipment you need because it offers a lot without taking up a huge amount of footprint. In our gyms, space is of the essence,” she adds. “All of this has helped us deliver a good wellness experience, using our grounds and facilities.” PB

10/07/2019 10:09

Fitness

60 Wattbike AtomX

Dyaco Spirit CRW900 Fluid Rower Dyaco has expanded its equipment offering for spas with an advanced indoor rowing machine. The Spirit CRW900 uses fluid technology to provide a similar experience to being on the water, with a patented twin tank with triple-bladed stainless steel impeller to create 10 levels of water-resistance rowing. Price on application 0800 0293865 dyaco.co.uk

on move THE

The AtomX gives riders a fully immersive cycling experience with in-built training plans and climb modes. Clients can use the patented technology to change the resistance to follow structured workouts, simulate gradient changes and mimic real climbs from around the world, including Alpe d’Huez in the French Western Alps and Mont Ventoux in southern France. Price on application 0115 945 5450 wattbike.com

Help your clients boost their wellbeing with these new equipment launches

Technogym Bike Personal The Italian supplier’s new bike is equipped with training programmes dedicated to sport and health and is fully integrated with the brand’s MyWellness Cloud platform. Clients can use the touchscreen interface Unity to access their progress levels and personalise workouts with their favourite applications and streaming channels. Price on application 01344 300236 technogym.com

SportsArt G690 Verde Treadmill The green company is launching Eco-Powr – a range of sustainable equipment that harnesses up to 74% of the kinetic energy produced during a workout, converting it into electricity that can be pumped back into the local grid. The collection includes the G690 Verde Treadmill, an energy-producing treadmill which generates up to 200 watts per hour. Price: £5,099 01509 274440 gosportsart.com

Matrix CXP Target Training Cycle This is an ideal piece of kit if you want to make group cycling classes a core part of your spa’s fitness offer. It has a touchscreen with engaging graphics and an LED colour wrap that helps riders achieve their goals whether the class is tracking watts, calories, RPMs, heart rate or distance. The bike also has contact-free magnetic resistance. Price on application 01782 644900 uk.matrixfitness.com

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Advertorial

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08/07/2019 14:31 11:43 09/07/2019

Hot Topic

SHOULD

therapists

STOP APPLYING

topica l anaesthetic?

In the latest debate to arise from the therapist/medic divide; Georgia Seago explores the issue of topical anaesthetic in salon skin-needling treatments

ecently, Professional Beauty has heard from salons in boroughs up and down the country that they have been contacted by their local councils to let them know that the terms of their licence do not allow them to sell or apply anaesthetic to their clients prior to needling treatments. The actual legalities around qualified and insured therapists selling and applying topical anaesthetic to clients is somewhat of a grey area. One salon owner who didn’t want to be named told us that she’d received the news from her council rep upon a visit to renew a licence. She was also informed that she could no longer use the same roller on multiple clients, regardless of the stringent sterilisation protocol advised by her distributor. Despite being insured to provide the treatment, inclusive of supplying, patch testing and applying the appropriate topical anaesthetic to clients prior to treatment, she was asked to remove microneedling from her menu. “I was gobsmacked as I hadn’t heard anything about it. I even had refresher training booked for the treatment,” she says, adding that microblading technicians in her borough have faced the same issue around anaesthetic.

The terms of her licence would still allow her to ask clients to apply their own anaesthetic, but she argues this could make the treatment unsafe: “Clients would have to patch test themselves and either apply while I watch or put it on before they come, and they’re unlikely to get it on correctly. I’ve got no control over that application and if it’s wrong then the whole appointment could be wasted, or worse,” she says.

Mixed messages Another salon owner who no longer carries out the treatment is Helen French, owner of Beauty by Helen French in Saint Helens. She was issued a notice from Environ distributor IIAA in April, which stated that because of the changes to many councils’ rules, a nurse or doctor would now have to apply her anaesthetic and be present for the duration of the needling treatment. “There had never been any issues in the past; the training from IIAA is extensive, everything has to be properly prepared to medical standards so that it’s all sterile,” says French. With seemingly different rules from different training providers and in different boroughs – several salon owners have told us that they haven’t been

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advised to change their protocols in regards to anaesthetic, and are still being sold the product alongside needling tools from their suppliers – French is frustrated at not knowing where the new safety message originated, or why it’s been given.

Safe than sorry “I understand the reasoning in terms of having someone medically trained there who could deal with complications if anything happens, but we’re not getting any answers and feel we’ve been stopped while others can still carry on,” she says. Lee Holloway, health and safety advisor at IIAA, commented: “While there has been no direct change in legislation, IIAA has received increasing feedback about the inconsistent views of UK local environmental health authorities in relation to enforcing the Medicines Act. “Some state it is an offence for non-medical persons to administer topical anaesthetic whilst others interpret that it is acceptable. Given the ambiguity of the current legal position and what appears to be increasing scrutiny, comment and intent to tighten accepted good practice and legal requirements in our sector…IIAA has taken the view that, to protect our salon customers from the legal and reputational impacts of the risks of topical anaesthesia and put them in a stronger position in relation to the perceived changing legal landscape, it now feels necessary to ask our skincare professionals to use topical anaesthetic under the guidance of a medically qualified professional.”

Skinbrands, which distributes microneedling pen Rejuvapen, takes a similar stance. “It’s always been the case that every council is different and practitioners should check with their individual councils,” said Joanne Corcoran, national trainer, adding: “At the moment, there is no legislation nationwide.” However, some believe that anaesthetic has always been a strictly no-go area for non-medics. Advanced treatments trainer and founder of Salon Expert business mentoring Kate Sharmand commented on Professional Beauty’s Facebook page: “We were never allowed to use anaesthetic…the client must purchase their own anaesthetic and apply it prior to their appointment. The MHRA will prosecute and fine you [if a non-medic sells or applies anaesthetic to a client]. “I have been an independent expert witness for many local authorities prosecuting salon owners for this very thing. It is sad we are not allowed a professional licence to acquire and use these anaesthetics, as its more than likely going to cause an increase in illegally obtained products being used on clients.”

Hot Topic

We’re not getting any answers and feel we’ve been stopped while others can still carry on

Grey area As far as needling equipment suppliers are concerned, most we asked for comment said that the use of anaesthetic – or not – is completely at the discretion of the salon or therapist, while they simply sell the tools to carry out needling treatments. Some recommend that non-medics should only needle to a depth of under 1mm, in which case topical anaesthetic is usually not required. Stephanie Verstraten, advisor in aesthetic dermatology at Mesoestetic, which manufactures microneedling and mesotherapy devices, said: “We simply provide training on our microneedling device and the Mesoestetic microneedling method. We as a company do not do any training on anaesthetic cream, application or rules.” Instead, the company leaves the decision on how to proceed regarding topical anaesthetic down to the salon or clinic.

Another way Amid so much confusion, it’s unsurprising that some therapists have decided to err on the side of caution and stop performing needling treatments altogether. But there is a potential solution in the form of topical pain-reduction products that don’t contain medical numbing agents. The new Meso Pain Reduce from Mesoskinline, for example, is applied before skin needling and other treatments with a pain factor to desensitise the skin “with no risk of anaphylactic shock or lidocaine allergic reaction”, according to the company. The product does not contain lidocaine, adrenaline or tetracaine, instead using eugenol, a clove oil extract, camphor and capsaicin. While rules remain unclear, options like this could be worth considering to avoid missing out on delivering effective and profitable skinneedling treatments. PB

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AW19 Nail Trends

Seasonal

SHIFT

Next season’s nail trends translate effortlessly from high fashion to highstreet nail looks. Get ahead now with the session techs’ top takeaways from the AW19 shows, and the new collections from the pro brands, writes Georgia Seago

What trends can we expect nail clients to ask for in autumn and winter? Jenni Draper: Blues – we saw many shades of blue on the catwalks and there’s generally a blue to suit all love a dark navy; it can look very sophisticated, like at the Giorgio Armani show. We also saw blues at Mark Fast and House of Holland. Glitter will also be huge this season. Halpern, Rodarte and Kate Spade all featured glitter in their shows – perfect for the Christmas season. Joanna Newbold: Clients will be asking for earthy browns, plummy reds, bold ochres and rich greens on a short, squoval or long, round nail. Dual colours will be popular too, with one colour through the middle and then finely edged with another or left bare, creating a negative space. Embellishments in pearls will also be big, as will nails with metallic accents, mimicking rays of light. Nickie Rhodes-Hill: Negative space nail designs will be as popular as ever, with delicate or bold dots, shapes or stripes randomly placed across all 10 nails, in seasonal colours. Equally popular is the placing of one, two or three colour splashes with the polish brush across the nails, then adding dots or stripes to create a unique design – or just leave the splashes on their own.

JN: The nails at Malene Oddershede Bach. The wardrobe palette was warm, featuring berry red, green and ochre accentuated with metallic accents. I created the nails using Jessica Custom Colour in Toasted Pecans and accented with a thin branch-like stroke of Phenom in Gold Vermeil around the cuticle to complement rather than distract.

What was your biggest backstage inspiration for next-season nail looks?

JD: Heather. I love this purple shade to take clients from summer into autumn, and then in a slightly darker tone for winter. N R-H: The colours I’ve been asked most for on AW19 editorials have been dusky, subdued lilac, rich cranberry-coral and a yellow-based green that mimics autumn leaves as they turn from green to yellow.

JD: I’m a fan of a natural clean nail manicure, but I also love an embellishment. So the nails at Adeam and Rodarte were perfect for me.

Which services do you expect to be popular in salon next season? JD: Add-on services like ear piercing, temporary tattoos and express brow treatments. All of these smaller services complement, encourage repeat business and add an extra income stream for nail salons. N R-H: I’m seeing an increasing trend towards a natural-looking French. This is created using a semiopaque cream or white for the tip and a sheer pink to enhance the colour of the nail plate. It gives the appearance of a very clean and sophisticated natural look without the density of “Tippex white” tips.

What are you tipping as the nail colour of the season?

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Gellux The new City Girl collection from Gellux gel-polish includes eight new shades to take clients from day to night as the party season hots up. Fri-YAY is berry red, Brunch Time is pearlised pink-nude, 9till5 a slate grey, Cocktail Hour a dark plum, Dress to Impress a deep blue, Rush Hour emerald green, City Girl deep burgundy and Girls Night Out a dark purple. Trade: £11.95 per 15ml 020 8573 9907 (Salon System) salonsystem.com

AW19 Nail Trends

CND

CND Treasured Moments brings together “rich, grounded tones” created to evoke memories of clients’ most special moments in life. The shades are: warm nude Baby Smile, mulberry Secret Diary, cranberry First Love, khaki green Cap & Gown and pumpkin orange B-Day Candle. The collection is available in Shellac and Vinylux long-wear polish. Trade: £13.95 per Shellac 7.3ml, £11.95 per Vinylux 15ml 0333 000 7000 [Sweet Squared] sweetsquared.com

Light Elegance There are both colours and glitters in Light Elegance’s Cozy Up to Fall collection. The colours are: Brrr! Berry, cranberry; Dewdrop, metallic silver; Easy Breezy, neutral with a rosy undertone; London Fog, greyish purple; Nippy, burgundy shimmer; and Rain Rain Go Away, midnight blue shimmer. The glitters are: I Mist You, whitegold with large gold glitter; Indian Summer, fine copper glitter with pink flashes; Storm Chaser, a multi-glitter of purple and blue; Sweater Weather, black and fuchsia glitters; Thunderstruck, golden-orange glitter; and What the Hail?, flakes of grey and silver. Trade: £18.95 per 17ml 0333 000 7000 [Sweet Squared] sweetsquared.com

Artistic Nail Design The Wrapped in Mystery collection from Artistic is billed as an “indulgent” range of shades to take clients into the colder months. There are three pearls: deep brown Twist of Fashion, dark navy Ingénue in Blue, and rich magenta Madame Rouge; two shimmers: burgundy Lust in Time and copper A Jewel in Disguise; and one crème: Mesmerizing Mauve. The collection is available in Colour Gloss soak-off gel and Colour Revolution long-wear lacquers. Trade: £16.95 per Colour Gloss 15ml, £5.95 per Colour Revolution 15ml 0333 000 2100 (Louella Belle) louellabelle.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk

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AW19 Nail Trends

66 Jessica Inspired by iconic American cars, Jessica’s Vintage Beauty collection comprises greyish purple Coupe De Ville, pale grey Falcon, shimmering chocolate Mustang, russet Woody, shimmering red Roadster; and sky blue Thunderbird. Meanwhile, the Phenom long-wear polish collection is called Uptown Style, three colours based on New York City landmarks. Wall Street is burnt orange, 5th Ave a dark plum and Empire State a dark blue. Trade: £5.50 per 14.8ml polish, £17.75 per 14ml Geleration, £6.75 per 15ml Phenom 020 8381 7793 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com

Morgan Taylor Morgan Taylor is looking to iconic film star Marilyn Monroe for its autumn collection. Forever Marilyn comprises six shades with caps bearing Monroe’s signature. The colours are: Some Girls Prefer Pearls, white shimmer; All American Beauty, sheer nude; A Girl and Her Girls, aubergine shimmer; That’s So Monroe, cool brown shimmer; Flirty and Fabulous, teal crème; and Classic Red Lips, tomato red crème. Trade: £4.95 per 15ml 0333 000 2100 (Louella Belle) louellabelle.co.uk

Orly

OPI Scotland is the inspiration for OPI’s AW19 collection, which channels fashion trends including windowpane plaid and classic houndstooth. The 12 new colours span the spectrum from purple, taupe, blue and dark green, to brighter pops of orange and red, reflecting the landscapes of Scotland. Standout shades include the turquoise shimmer Nessie Plays Hide and Sea-k and the deep amethyst Good Girls Gone Plaid. The collection is available in lacquer, Infinite Shine and GelColor, and for the first time, six of the shades will also be available in Powder Perfection dipping powders. Trade: £5.25 per polish; £6.50 per Infinite Shine; £16.95 per GelColour 01923 250010 opiuk.com

Dreamscape is the autumn collection from Orly. Launching in September, the six-strong line features sophisticated muted pinks and greys, plus a striking deep turquoise. The colours are barely there Ethereal Plane; earthy pink Dreamweaver; pale taupe Free Fall; space grey Astral Projection; charcoal-toned Into the Deep and metallic teal Air of Mystique. All are available in polish and Gel Fx. Trade: £6.13 per polish, £13.95 per gel 01827 280080 graftons.co.uk

Nail Gaga There are eight new shades in Nail Gaga’s AW19 Gelore Gel Polish collection: bright Raspberry Rush; soft Dove Grey; pinky red English Rose; deeply pigmented Purple Haze; rich brown Pecan Pie; nude-toned Antique Lace; muted berry Mulberry and rich teal Jade Stone. Also new for the season are three Chrome Illusion Pigment Pots in blue, purple and two-tone purple-gold shades, plus four brown-toned colour acrylics in Conker, Baked Bronze, pale Caramak and earthy red Twinkle-Cha. Trade: £11.95 per gel polish; £6 per chrome pigment; £3.85 per acrylic powder 07401 254494 nailgaga.co.uk professionalbeauty.co.uk

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AW19 Nail Trends

Winter

FLORALS

A departure from winter’s usual moodiness, a big influence for AW19 fashion was flowers, specifically roses and pastel-toned blooms. Designers including Prada, MSGM, Escada and Shrimps all sent floral creations down the runway, and here, two techs reimagine winter florals for colder weather nail looks in these exclusive designs

WINTER IN WATERCOLOUR Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System Gellux nail expert

EARN YOUR STRIPES Emma Brock, CND tech and owner of The NailDresser in Haverhill, Suffolk

1. T o prepared nails, apply two coats of Gellux Piggy Pink, curing after each 2. On a piece of foil, place three drops of Easy off Base Coat and mix each with a very small amount Surf’s Up, You Can Can and Peach Perfect to create three sheer colours 3. D ip a detail brush into You Can Can. Shade and create small, randomly placed petals on the side of each nail, then cure 4. R epeat step three using Peach Perfect, then repeat again with Surf’s Up, curing after each design is added 5. D ip a fine liner brush into Black Onyx and paint some random petals and dots over the petals you have created. Cure for 60 seconds 6. Apply Gellux Shiny Top Coat and cure. PB

1. After prepping the nails for gel-polish, apply two coats of CND Shellac Cashmere Wrap, curing between each 2. Using a detailing brush, pick up a small amount of Wildfire and Cake Pop to create messy circular shapes for the base of the roses and cure 3. Add definition to your roses using Cream Puffand Blackpool. Cure 4. Strategically paint the leaves using Palm Deco first, then go in with Art Basil to add some shading, then cure 5. Using a thin striping brush and Blackpool, fill in the remaining gaps with a zebra print pattern and cure 6. Finish with Shellac Top Coat and cure. Alternatively, you could sprinkle some clear acrylic powder over the top coat before curing to create a fur-like texture.

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LASH STYLING

Super Fast

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I woke up like this! Before

After

NEW RefectoCil Eyelash Lift for longer, fuller and nourished lashes in just 13 minutes! Lasts for 6 weeks. Available at your wholesaler now Distributed exclusively by Salon System in the UK & Ireland

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Experience this! Brand new stage in partnership with Treatwell and The British Beauty Council Over 500 exhibiting brands with exclusive show offers and product line launches Free education opportunities including our Olympia Stage talks and Education Club sessions and masterclasses Stay ahead of the curve with the latest trends, innovations and services and network with likeminded professionals Feel inspired and enjoy our four resident competitions taking place on the Gallery

Save the dates! SUNDAY 29 SEPTEMBER 10AM* - 6PM MONDAY 30 SEPTEMBER 10AM - 5PM AT OLYMPIA LONDON, W14 8UX *EARLY OPEN AT 9.30AM EXCLUSIVELY FOR SALON & SPA OWNERS’ CLUB MEMBERS

REGISTRATIONS NOW OPEN FOR AUTUMN’S BIGGEST BEAUTY EVENT FOR PROFESSIONALS

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OLYMPIA

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Dementia Training

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Dementia Training

Peace

OF MIND

Becoming a dementia-friendly business is a socially responsible move that will cement your reputation in the community as an inclusive space. Amanda Pauley investigates four ways you can tailor your salon experience for those living with the condition

ith someone in the UK developing dementia every three minutes, according to research from the Alzheimer’s Society, knowing how to tailor your salon or spa’s experience for those living with the condition has never been more important. Across the country, high-street businesses are stepping up to the plate, finding out how dementia affects people and turning that understanding into thoughtful action. Salons and spas in particular have been reaching out to organisations like the Alzheimer’s Society for training, with the charity noting an increase in requests from beauty businesses to become a “Dementia Friend” – a person or company who wants to make a positive difference to people living with the syndrome. “It’s really heartening to see beauty businesses uniting with us in the fight against dementia,” says Emma Bould, programme partnerships project manager at the Alzheimer’s Society. “The service they provide is really important because it not only promotes health and relaxation, but helps people with their personal maintenance, making them feel good about themselves.”

Dementia is an emotionally charged issue and it’s normal to feel anxious about tailoring your service, especially if you’ve never had a client with the condition book in before. However, with some training and process tweaks, you can transform your business into a completely inclusive space that locals will be proud of. So, why not make the change?

Invest in the right training

The first step is to reach out to a trusted organisation for free training, such as the Alzheimer’s Society, which will provide either face-to-face or online education on the key messages about dementia, common misconceptions and steps you need to implement in your business. “It’s a duty of care to have that awareness. We were one of the first spas in the country to become cancer and dementia aware and we’re very proud of this,” says Sue Davis, wellness director at Lifehouse Spa & Hotel in Essex. “Dementia is becoming quite an issue because people are living longer. You’re not going to have clients with advanced dementia >

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Dementia Training

come through your doors but you’re likely to encounter those in the early stages who are trying to function with the condition.” However, Davis advises asking for volunteers to undergo the training rather than imposing it on staff because some of your team may have family members or friends who are living with the disease and could find the process too hard. By the same token, a therapist straight out of college may find this quite intimidating.

Be emotionally aware “Our advanced therapists perform these treatments because they’ve already undergone cancer therapy education and are naturally more experienced and empathetic,” explains Davis. “This is important because the client’s emotions can be heightened and any sudden move can make them disorientated, which could throw a more junior therapist.” Although your client may not remember that they’ve visited the salon, the feeling of relaxation will remain. “You’ll be amazed at how much that emotion lingers,” says Kelly Anthony, specialist at Beautiful You UK, a company that provides dementia-friendly beauty therapies to people in care homes. “The client might feel good for a couple of days afterwards but won’t remember why, which is sadly part of the disease. Even though their memories are falling away quickly, the emotions last longer and you’re helping to anchor that feeling.”

Opt for rhythmic treatments

When it comes to choosing a treatment, anything rhythmic is ideal as the repetitive movements will be calming for your client, and all the experts recommend steering clear of deep-tissue massage or machine-based face and body treatments. Apart from that, it’s very much about offering the individual what they like.

“What we’ve learned is that you need to treat the person rather than the disease because they want to feel normal. You don’t want to single them out and make them feel different,” explains Davis. It’s worth talking to the client’s family or carer to find out their preferences (one of these people will accompany the customer to the salon on the day) and be prepared to switch up the ritual if need be. “You have to gauge how they are around you and remember no two days are the same. The next time you see the client, they may be having a particularly challenging day,” adds Anthony. “If the client isn’t in a good state for their facial appointment, you could offer a hand and arm massage instead.”

Use the power of aromatherapy Whatever treatment you perform, try to incorporate some form of aromatherapy. “There’s research in the Journal of Clinical Nursing [Management of Behavioural and Psychological Symptoms of Dementia by an Aroma-massage with Acupressure Treatment] that says aromatherapy can help people with dementia to manage some of their symptoms, and certain oils may have the potential to improve memory and thinking skills in people with Alzheimer’s disease,” says Bould. “Lemon balm specifically has been shown to help with mood swings and lavender oil with aggressive behaviour.” Lifehouse even offers mindfulness sessions to dementia clients. People living with the condition can experience anxiety, and breathing exercises have been shown to help reduce the symptoms. “We provide a calm experience where the therapist talks through the exercises slowly while relaxing music fills the air,” says Davis.

Master communication

Dementia affects everyone differently so you’ll need to expect the unexpected – some clients may forget

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Dementia Training

what’s going on or have difficulty understanding what you’re saying. It’s important to stay calm, tell them what you’re doing at every stage of the treatment and speak to the client at eye level – never over the shoulder because they may get confused as to where you are. “Eye contact is so important for someone with dementia as the disease can be quite insular, and they may not be used to someone coming into their personal space,” says Anthony. “Engage them in conversation but be generic in terms of what you say. You don’t want to remind them that you’ve seen them before because this could trigger a situation, especially in the more challenging stage of the disease.”

Choose your words wisely Phrases such as “remember we did this” or “last time you had X treatment, which you really enjoyed” are big no-nos. Anthony advises being less specific, saying things like, “it’s nice to see you” or “I’m going to do a nice relaxing facial for you today”. She also suggests not asking too many questions because your client may not have the answer, which can frustrate and disorientate them. If your customer has difficulty speaking, Bould advises engaging them through their other senses to discover what they would like. “Spas are a really sensual experience, so you can interact with your client via sight, smell and touch. For example, you could use visual aids of herbs and flowers, or let them smell the essential oils, asking them to point to the one they want.”

Invest in signage

Loss of memory is not the only side effect of dementia, with many struggling in other areas of life such as finding their way around a shop or navigating an exit. “Many people with dementia fear they may

not get the right support while out and about. People with the condition can end up spending days on end at home, giving up the hobbies and activities they enjoy,” explains Bould. Noisy environments can be disruptive, so if your client comes in and your reception area is busy, take them to a quiet room. “We tell the client’s family when we’re busy so they book them in for an appointment on a quieter day, where it will be less disorientating,” explains Davis. Lifehouse also turns phones down to a quieter volume and makes sure there’s clear signage, creating easy-to-follow paths to key facilities such as the exit, toilets and treatment room. “Dementia affects your visual perception, so as you get older, your eyes find it harder to distinguish between colours and contrast. For example, tiles on the floor can look like steps and a dark mat can look like a change in the depth of the floor or even a hole,” says Bould. Invest in disability signage because it uses the most visual colours – red and yellow are the last colours on the spectrum that people see before they lose their sight. Plus, they contrast the most strongly against different coloured backgrounds. You can download these signs for free at alzheimers.org.uk

Look into easier payment methods Some dementia sufferers also have difficulty understanding the value of money, unable to recognise coins and notes. The Alzheimer’s Society recommends helping the client count their change instead of correcting them and installing a contactless card machine so that they don’t have to handle money or a chip and pin. “It’s even worth talking to one of the client’s family members or their carer about setting up an account which can be paid off every two to three months,” adds Bould. “It’s often the simplest things that can help most.” PB

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Promotional Feature

Pure Spa

Linen

BC Softwear has launched Pure Spa Linen: a new collection for five-star clients, designed in collaboration with spa consultant Peigin Crowley

Images courtesy of South Lodge Spa

his collection has been created with some of our most exclusive clients in mind,” says Barbara Cooke, managing director of BC Softwear. “The cotton linen is very stylish with a sensation of exceptional luxury and softness, designed to give your client a feeling of total pampering during their luxury spa treatment. After all, we believe that a five-star treatment begins with the touch of the bath robe and the smooth feel of the spa linen on your skin before the professional treatment even commences.” Spa consultant Peigin Crowley, who collaborated with BC Softwear on the launch, adds: “We designed this collection to enhance the visual aesthetic of the treatment room as well as the overall sensuality of the treatment. There is an expectation that the interior of a treatment suite should include a spa bed dress that invites you in. It should exude not only welcoming comfort, but the utter luxury of generous, pure white cotton – that tactile sensation that adds to the overall experience of a five-star spa.” Pure Spa Linen is made with pure white 100pc combed cotton. The design has a sharp line of embroidery along the length of the sheet on either side, to add a level of elegance to each sheet. This linen has a superior thread count of 300, which feels incredibly soft to the touch, and cool and gentle on the skin. The collection is made in Turkey, with a stitched, embroidered border, applied piece by piece by skilled workers.

The embroidery is available in three colours: Silver Grey, Pebble or Pure White, to match the coordinating Sumptuous, Serenity and Comfy towels from BC Softwear. The Pure Spa Linen Pillowcase and the Pure Spa Linen Duvet cover may also be embroidered with your hotel or spa logo to subtly enhance the branding as you enter the room.

Supremesoft spa linen The SupremeSoft spa linen range is a newcomer to the BC Softwear collection and has quickly become a “go to” spa linen essential. The fabric is so versatile, feeling super soft to the touch with a texture that has the perfect blend of substance and fluidity for bathrobes, and is now available for treatment towels and couch covers too. The SupremeSoft fabric is a blend of cotton and polyester which is brilliant for spa treatments, because it repels oils. Because of the fabric blend, it is much lighter than traditional towelling too. This dual-weave fabric is a blend of polyester fleece on one side and absorbent cotton towelling on the other side. Independent performance wash tests have shown that SupremeSoft will save you 70% on energy by offering faster drying times than traditional towelling, and you get more robes or towels in the wash, with less time to dry. After multiple washes in a commercial spa environment, there are no visible signs of wear. Brand new to the range is the SupremeSoft elasticated and fitted couch cover, with or without head hole made to your specification in White, Slate Grey or Pebble. Prices for the Pure Spa Linen collection are available on request. Call 0845 210 4000 to discuss your requirements.

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Uniforms, Towels & Robes

78 Artejano The new additions to Artejano’s spa and salonwear range are the Alice and Claire tops and two new styles of trousers – Slim and Boot Leg. The Alice top has capped sleeves with an Asian-inspired neckline in a temperature-regulating fabric, while Claire is a belted tunic with front wrap and an asymmetrical hemline. Both the Slim and Boot Leg Trousers have front button detailing at the waist and are made from an easy-care fabric with Teflon stain-resistant finish. All pieces come in black or white with decorative trim available in a range of colours. Trade: from £50 for the Alice top 01793 674897 artejanossw.co.uk

HIT refresh The latest launches from the textiles brands offer easy updates to your salon or spa’s look, plus we explore the hot topic of inclusivity in spa robe sizes

BC Softwear Spa and salon textiles brand BC Softwear has launched the SupremeSoft bath robe to help beauty businesses cut down on laundry costs and energy output. The 300gsm robe has a soft, lightweight polyester outer with towelling lining. The brand claims a 70% reduction in drying time after washing. The robe is available in white, silver-grey, slate grey, pebble and black, in sizes from M to XXL. Trade: £23.95 0845 210 4000 bcsoftwear.co.uk

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Buttercups

Fashionizer

The new collection from Buttercups features four styles designed with customer feedback in mind. There’s a tunic made from bi-stretch material for a flattering fit, with compact pockets at the waistline and dart detailing. It’s also available in a longer dress style, in black, grey and blush. Also in both tunic and dress options, the round neck empire-seam style features modern lines and comes in black, navy and grey. Trade: from £32 0844 910 0865 buttercupsuniforms.com

New from Fashionizer is a wrap jumpsuit and tunic made from Newlife, a fabric crafted from PET into fine yarns using 100% recycled plastic bottles. The fabric is described as having the smooth look, texture and durability of polyester, while being less harmful to the environment. The Caprica jumpsuit has a V-neck crossover design, two side pockets, a side zip and an elasticated waist. The brand’s growing range of sustainable salon and spa uniforms also includes garments made from organic cotton, linen, bamboo, viscose and Tencel. Trade: £105 for the jumpsuit 020 8995 0088 fashionizerspa.com

Uniforms, Towels & Robes

Majestic

La Beeby The salon uniforms brand has released six new, contemporary dresses and tunics that aim to modernise workwear for beauty professionals. The garments have sophisticated cuts and classic silhouettes and are made from high-quality, durable fabrics. In addition to the brand’s signature shades of plum, grey, navy and black, the pieces are available in a limited-edition red shade. Following customer feedback, the new dresses and tunics all offer the option to feature side pockets. Trade: from £29.95 0114 251 3511 labeeby.co.uk

Designed to fit easily over mobile treatment couches of varying sizes, Majestic’s new Fully Fitted Couch Skirt is highly stretchable and made from a durable fabric of 90% polyester and 10% elastane. The skirt measures 60–75cm wide by 190cm long and provides an alternative to layering towels on the couch, which can cause movement or rucking during treatment. It has four corner pockets to firmly secure the fabric under the couch legs for a neat look, and is machine washable at 30ºC. Two styles are available, one with an arch opening at one end and one without. Trade: £21.95 0121 772 0936 majestictowels.co.uk

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Uniforms, Towels & Robes

The

BIG

ISSUE

In this era of ultimate inclusivity, spas need to make sure they cater for clients of all sizes. We ask two of the biggest suppliers what they’re doing to help all clients feel welcome

everal recent articles in the consumer media claimed spas aren’t doing as much as they could to create a welcoming, comfortable experience for larger clients. It’s important to remember that one size doesn’t fit all when it comes to robes and towels, so carrying a wide selection of sizes is one of the simplest ways to create an inclusive environment. “There has been a steady increase in demand from the spa sector for larger bathrobes and towels,” agrees Abbas Vawda, managing director of Majestic Towels. However, he notes that this isn’t just down to bigger body shapes. “A noticeable contributor to the need for larger sizes is the increasing number of men frequenting spas, as they generally have broader frames than women,” he says. Majestic’s Jumbo Bath Sheet has dimensions of 1x2m and is a bestseller as it can also completely

cover a treatment couch. Towels are priced depending on size. The brand offers a bespoke XXL size in its robes and sarongs, subject to minimum order and priced at an extra cost to the standard range of medium, large or XL. Spa textiles supper BC Softwear has also noticed a rise in the number of spas carrying larger robe sizes. Owner Barbara Cooke says that in the first six months of 2019, the brand sold more than 700 white robes in sizes ranging from XXL to XXXXL, tracking well ahead of 2018 when 1,000 were sold over the full 12 months. The brand also produces the plus-size robes in slate grey and pebble colourways. BC Softwear’s 4XL robes cost £3.95 more per robe. “By keeping larger sizes in stock, a therapist can select a bathrobe that they know will make a customer feel more at ease without having to make it a point of conversation,” says Cooke. PB

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09/07/2019 09:38

Operational Advice

DO YOU NEED an

accountant?

How can an accountant or bookkeeper benefit your business, and when do you need one? Business finance expert Georgette Rowland Osborne explains all you need to know

t is commonly believed that only big companies need a financial support team, but in my experience of working with hundreds of businesses, this is not the case. Larger, established salons can swallow the occasional financial hiccup, but a small one may be destroyed by it. If you’re the only person in charge, you’re vulnerable because you only have your knowledge to rely on. Your job is to be a beauty professional, and you may be completely unaware of financial ticking time bombs in your business that an accountant would spot.

What are the benefits? Bookkeepers help businesses keep accurate records of financial data, while accountants are advisors who use bookkeeping as a tool to interpret the data for business owners, providing the information they need to understand and improve their operation. The goal is to set up accounting and cash flow systems to enable you to understand what is really happening with your money at any point during the year.

If you can’t answer the following questions about your salon with confidence then it may be time to take on an accountant: 1. What services or treatments are the most and least profitable? 2. Are your offers converting and making money? 3. Can I afford to pay my bills as they become due? 4. Will I be able to afford to add to my team? If so, when? 5. How is the business performing overall? 6. Will my business provide me with the income and lifestyle I need?

When is the right time? Some people hire an accountant on the day they start trading and treat this person as a kind of support system for business matters. It comes as no surprise that these people often have a higher success rate of staying in business. >

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Operational Advice

However, there are many reasons that trigger a salon owner to seek help later down the line, such as: 1. They need assistance filing accounts or tax returns 2. Money is an ongoing issue and they realise they need answers to the earlier questions 3. They are doing some form of accounts but it is inadequate 4. Bookkeeping is taking time away from running their business 5. They are exhausted and need at least one task handled for them.

How do I find one?

How much does it cost? Fees will vary based on business type, size, turnover, and the number and complexity of transactions. While some bookkeepers still charge by the hour, if possible, opt for someone who works on a fixed fee. Accountants, however, charge per year and often accept payment in monthly instalments. For a sole trader, contractor or freelancer, fees can be between £30 and £180 per month. For limited companies, it can vary from £100 to £1,200 per month. If you can’t afford external help just yet, at least invest in proper accounting software with a cloudbased programme – the better the bookkeeping, the cheaper the accounting fees. And know that simply by taking the first steps towards becoming aware of your overall financial situation you will be taking your salon in a more profitable, successful direction. PB

You may be completely unaware of financial ticking time bombs in your business that an accountant would spot

Always look for an accountant or bookkeeper that is a member of a recognised professional body, such as the Association of Chartered Accountants (ACCA), Institute of Chartered Accountants in England & Wales (ICAEW) or Institute of Certified Bookkeepers (ICB) and check that they provide the services you need, such as payroll. Other important considerations include: 1. How comfortable you feel with them. Do they make you feel supported or stupid? 2. How interested in your goals and dreams they are, wanting to know why you do what you do, not just what it is that you need help with at that time 3. Are they keeping up with trends in technology and productivity that they can pass on to you? As a minimum, an accountant should be using cloud accounting packages 4. Will they review your goals with you at least every three to six months?

Georgette Rowland Osborne is a business expert who helps “financially overwhelmed” businesses streamline their finances. She is also an author, speaker and podcast host.

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10/07/2019 16:24

Treatment News

89 Comfort Zone Body Strategist 3 in 1 The new spa therapy combines three protocols in one session, with the aim of toning skin on the body and improving the appearance of cellulite. It begins with a massage designed to target the connective tissues, stimulate circulation and eliminate toxins, using Body Strategist Massage Oil, which contains ivy extract, lemon, orange and mint. Next, Warm Booster is applied with a brush to the legs and abdomen, and this thermogenic mask contains microalgae to further stimulate circulation. Once removed, the second massage sequence is performed for a draining and slimming effect, using Body Strategist Massage Cream with caffeine and carnitine. The legs are then wrapped in a bandage with the oil from the range, packed with ivy extract and

TONE &

texture

menthol to stimulate the venous system and give an immediate sensation of lightness. Once the bandages are removed, the treatment is completed with a final touch of Body Strategist Gel to help strengthen the capillary walls. Comfort Zone UK recommends charging £80 to £100 for the 60-minute treatment. Call the brand on 020 3301 0496

A new programme to treat cellulite and skin tone launches, and we try a gentle resurfacing facial based around microdermabrasion

This month we tried… Skinbase The Facial The lowdown: While Skinbase offers a few different treatments, the brand is known for its microdermabrasion system. It uses ultra-fine microcrystals to exfoliate skin and claims to treat acne scarring, pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles. As well as gently abrading skin to remove the outermost layer, the device uses a vacuum action to stimulate microcirculation, encouraging the production of collagen and elastin to improve texture. During the treatment, skin cells and used crystals are drawn away through an exhaust tube to a waste container.

doing a double cleanse with a gentle gel cleanser. She then began working methodically over my face in sections with the device. Beeston told me many clients are afraid microdermabrasion will be uncomfortable, but it just felt like a gentle scratching and suction. After treating the whole face, Beeston went back over my T-zone again as this is the area where I have the most congestion. She finished with Skinbase Posttreatment SPF, a soothing and calming moisturiser with sun protection. I left with a bottle of Homecare with SPF, a similar product with SPF 30, under instructions to use only this on my skin for 72 hours.

The experience: My therapist, regional trainer Sarah Beeston, patch tested me with some of the crystals to make sure my skin wasn’t too sensitive before

The verdict: I didn’t have any redness or irritation initially, but this did develop slightly on my jaw and neck area around 48 hours later. It went away after two days, and my skin was brighter and more even-toned. I definitely noticed fewer blackheads on my T-zone. Business benefits: Microdermabrasion is a good choice for a machine-based system that a large proportion of your client base will be able to benefit from. The Skinbase machine is available on a payas-you-go basis, and with a base cost to the salon of £12.24 per treatment, it offers a high profit margin. Tried by Georgia Seago SkinBase recommends charging between £35 to £50 for 30 minutes. Call the brand on 01782 770810 professionalbeauty.co.uk

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New Products

90 Eyelash Emporium The pro lash brand has created the Backdrop Lash Pillow to help keep clients comfortable during treatment. Made from memory foam, the pillow has an indented central section to support the head, neck and shoulders while on the treatment bed. It also has raised side sections to hold lash tools nearby. While the pillow comes with a grey cover, individual covers are also available in velvet-finish purple or black and are fully machine washable. Trade: £10.83 01827 280080 (Graftons) graftons.co.uk

THE

eyes HAVE IT

Lashes dominate new product launches this month, with brands developing clever tools to help treatments go more smoothly

Novalash New from the lash-extensions brand is The Light, a multiuse standing light with two elongated LED panels. The Light can be positioned to assist with lash application and is bright enough to illuminate clients’ baby lashes, which aren’t always readily visible. The brightest setting is ideal when separating lashes, to help spot any that may be stuck together. It can also be used during make-up services, or for lighting clients to take “after” shots. Trade: £211 01273 041966 novalashuk.co.uk

Nimue The new summer retail kit allows salons to offer clients savings on sun protection. It contains Sun-C Environmental Shield SPF50 in a 50ml size with an additional 20ml travel-size tube for free, meaning a saving of £25 at retail. The full-spectrum suncare products protect skin from free radicals and key causes of premature ageing including UVA, UVB and infrared rays, as well as high-energy visible light and blue light from smartphones and computer screens. Trade: £24.45 for 50ml (plus free 20ml) 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

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New Products

Sienna X The tanning and waxing brand has launched an extensive skincare range. The 11-piece collection includes day and eye creams, Retinol Serum, Miracle Mask, Clay Mask, Facial Polish, Chemical Peel, Facial Oil, Toning Solution, Cleansing Lotion and Cleansing Balm. The products are cruelty-free and all but one are vegan-friendly. Billed as suitable for all skins, the range is formulated with actives and natural ingredients, while fragrances and textures have been chosen “to promote a sensory treatment”. Trade: from £11 0333 600 1200 sienna-x.co.uk

Murad Oil and Pore Control Mattifier SPF 45 is an oil-free moisturiser that was shown in trials to minimise the appearance of pores by 54% within one minute of application. The product is also designed to address oily skin concerns over time, helping to make pores less visible and skin more matte the longer it’s used. Key ingredients include oil-trapping microspheres, plus avocado and African yellow wood bark extracts to help control oil production. Trade: £18.96 for 50ml 0844 472 7050 murad.co.uk

Timely Salon software company Timely has developed a customisable consultation form app. Available to all therapists, not just Timely customers, Consult is designed to streamline business processes and provide a better client experience. The digital forms help keep client information secure and reduce the occurrence of errors when recording data, compared to pen and paper. Users can customise questions and there are templates for new client intakes, consultations and patch testing. Trade: free 020 3808 0465 gettimely.com/consult

Skinade Collagen drink company Skinade has launched Targeted Solutions – three different liquid sachets that promote better skin from within. Cellulite delivers nutraceuticals to address orange peel skin; Clear contains ingredients to help address breakouts and acne; and Derma Defence A&D Boost nourishes the complexion by aiding cell renewal and elasticity. The company has also unveiled the Skinade MD Pre+Post Care Programme for medical professionals, a range of liquid and powder sachets, capsules and a sublingual spray, which can be integrated into protocols to help patients recover from invasive procedures. RRP: £50 for 30-day course of Derma Defence A&D Boost; £90 for 30-day course of Clear; £115.50 for 30-day course of Cellulite 0845 130 0205 skinade.com professionalbeauty.co.uk

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New Products

92 Kaeso The skincare brand’s new Anti-Ageing range is vegan and cruelty-free. It includes Day Cream, Micellar Water and Facial Serum. Also new from Kaeso is replenishing facial Sleep Oil, for use at night. Made with skin-nourishing ingredients including evening primrose and lavender oils, it also aids relaxation. Finally, there are two new varieties of face drops – Vitamin C to revive dull complexions and Radiance Booster to target wrinkles. The drops can be applied straight to the skin or mixed with moisturiser. Trade: from £4.10 for the Anti-Ageing range; £5.95 for 50ml Sleep Oil; £7.40 for each 30ml face drops 0141 814 6572 (Professional Beauty Systems) kaeso.co.uk

Crazy Angel There are three new launches for summer from Crazy Angel. Tanning Drops let clients customise their skincare products for a light to medium tan. Key active ingredients include antioxidants to help fight free radicals. SelfTan Mousse has a hydrating water-to-mousse formula, enriched with skin-boosting extracts such as shea butter, vitamin C and hyaluronic acid. Self-Tan Water has a lightweight, colourless formula, with 9% DHA for a naturallooking tan. All the products are vegan friendly. Trade: £7.29 for 30ml drops; £8.75 for 200ml mousse; £7.49 for the 200ml water 0845 180 1241 (Professional Beauty Systems) crazy-angel.co.uk

OPI OPI has teamed up with footwear brand Converse on a capsule summer polish collection. The six neon brights have names inspired by music: Pump Up the Volume (yellow), Orange You a Rock Star?, V-I-Pink Passes, Positive Vibes Only (purple), Dance Party ‘Teal Dawn; and Music is My Muse (blue). There is a matching collection of Converse shoes with the shade names printed onto the sole. Trade: £5.25 per 15ml Lacquer, £16.90 per 15ml GelColor 01923 240010 opiuk.com

Spongellé Summer brings three new additions to the Spongellé range. The Spongology Collection comprises a Travel Buffer, Body Buffer, Back Buffer and Body Contouring Glove, infused with extracts of rosehip, green tea and hibiscus to cleanse, exfoliate, massage and tone; while the four-piece A Moment in Mexico range features a Pedi Buffer, Boxed Flower, Wild Flower and Spongette, all scented with sugar dahlia. In time for flip-flop season, the brand has also developed nine Pedi-Buffers with extracts of peppermint and sea kelp. Trade: from £5.50 for Spongology and A Moment in Mexico products; £6.98 for each Pedi-Buffer 020 8381 7793 (Gerrard International) gerrardinternational.com

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94 New Products

Peacc’i Accounts of The Gel Bottle Inc will be excited to hear that the company has launched a sister lacquer and apparel brand called Peacc’i. The 150-piece vegan and cruelty-free lacquer collection promises to match the pigment quality and longevity of gel, while promoting the strength and health of the natural nail. Colours range from cerise pink Miami to bright turquoise Blue Lagoon. The apparel range features luxe t-shirts and hoodies made with nail techs in mind, offering comfortable and quality items. Trade: £6 for each 10ml lacquer RRP: t-shirts £29; hoodies £49 0333 772 0965 (The Gel Bottle Inc) thegelbottle.com

Just Wax The brand’s Advanced Roller Wax glides over the contours of the body for quick application, making it suitable for waxing larger areas such as legs, arms, chest and back. The strip wax was developed in collaboration with industry expert Andy Rouillard (known as the Wax Daddy) and has a hypoallergenic formula of synthetic resin, making it suitable for vegans. It heats up in just 10 minutes, “cutting down treatment time without compromising on results,” says Rouillard. Trade: £11.95 for a pack of six x 100ml 020 8845 4115 (Salon System) salonsystem.com

Priori The TTC fx360 Natural Enzyme Peel & Masque is designed for clients suffering with breakouts and acne to use in between salon appointments. The enzyme-based, all-natural active peel and mask duo is infused with a triple turmeric complex to nourish, restore and hydrate skin. Other key ingredients include papaya and pumpkin enzyme extracts to aid cell turnover, black willow bark extract to unclog pores; and argan oil and shea butter to moisturise. Trade: £20 for 120ml 0333 014 2434 (Skinbrands) skinbrands.co.uk

Artdeco It’s all about lashes for the make-up brand this month, with the launch of two new mascaras, a lash coat, and a hardworking make-up remover. Twist for Volume Mascara has a rotating brush for two looks – one part lengthens and separates, the other gives volume and bounce. Long-lasting Angel Eyes Mascara Waterproof has a fine-tipped brush to extend and curl. Waterproof Maker is a top coat to make any mascara waterproof. Lastly, Bi-Phase Make-up Remover removes waterproof eye and lip make-up. RRP: from £11.80 to £18.90 028 9061 7403 (Chleo Enterprises) chleoenterprises.co.uk

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Career Path

How to make it as a...

massage therapist With demand for massage on the rise, Christina Tomlin, a massage therapist with membership salon concept The Massage Company, outlines the routes you can take to be successful in this specialism

1. You need a passion for helping people “Initially I trained in make-up because I love the transformative effect it can have. In a way, massage is similar. I did a Level 3 Swedish massage course and offered treatments alongside make-up services for a while but the more massage I did, the more I enjoyed it. It’s lovely to have such a positive impact on people. I have clients come in with chronic pain and tell me that after a massage is the only time they sleep properly; it’s a special job in that respect.”

2. Explore different routes “I decided to get a better feel for different types of massage before specialising so I went to work in a spa for two years. I found remedial treatments most fulfilling so did more short courses, including Indian champissage and chronic pain-healing. “Then I heard about The Massage Company (TMC) and applied for a job because I liked their ethos, which is to bring massage to the masses and make it part of a routine rather than a luxury. I’ve had extra training there on techniques like deep tissue, aromatherapy, scalp and hot stones. “I like being employed rather than freelance as you have guaranteed clients and are protected from cancellations, but massage is a flexible career and it’s easy to do private work alongside – I’m about to do a Reiki master course.”

3. Look after yourself physically “When I started specialising, I found it tough. It’s like when you start going to the gym – a bit of a slog for the first month but as you build your muscles it gets

easier. You have to look after your arms and posture because that’s your livelihood. It’s to do with body weight and using the surface area of your arm rather than digging in with thumbs, knuckles or anywhere where there are tendons that can get damaged. “Some spas don’t let you do more than three hours’ massage a day but that’s hard if you go into it full time. I do massage four days a week, working six hours a day with an hour’s break, and that works for me.”

4. Separate your emotions “Obviously, massage is a touch therapy and some people find that an emotional experience because they haven’t had that contact with anyone in a long time. So, it helps to be good at reading people, but you can’t absorb their emotions. I’ve got better at that; I meditate and remind myself to leave work at the door. If you’re not mentally in the right space then you can’t help your client get there. “Because you make people feel so much better they sometimes think you’re going to have all the answers. I let them know my limits and refer them to a physiotherapist or a doctor if necessary.”

5. Now’s the time to specialise “People used to view massage as an occasional luxury but because there’s more awareness of anxiety and stress now, people are taking self-care seriously. Sports massage is probably the most lucrative area to go into because you’re fixing a problem, and you get great repeat custom. Sports and Ayurvedic massage tend to pay best, but really, the more you train and build up your specialism the more you can earn.” PB

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